DIAGRAM 69.—Lay the back and forepart together on the shoulder, and draw
a line from top of back, A, to front, D.
Place the circled point half-way between A and D, and, pivoting at that
point, draw a circle from the side of the neck, B, to reach to F.
From F draw a line parallel with line A D, as to G, making the width, F
G, to fancy.
From the circled dot sweep the outer edge from G to H, form the balance
by the neck and shape the lapel.
DIAGRAM 70.—This collar is very similar to the foregoing, but has more
fullness cast over the shoulder. The curve is raised ½ inch above the
circle at F, and the line to G is placed 2 inches further forward. The
shape is then drafted by circling from G to H.
The front of the neck can be dropped at D as shown, with a view to
opening it.