The measures by which the diagram on the opposite page were produced are
as follows:
Back length, 15.
Front length, 18¼.
Blade, 10.
Height under arm, 7½.
Breast, 36.
Waist, 25.
Length of front, 23.
The method of delineating is the same as for a waist pattern in the main
points.
Square the lines O C and O F. O to 1 is ¾ inch. Measure from 1 to B, the
back length 15. B to A is the height under arm, 7½. From both points
draw lines across.
B to D is ¹⁄₁₂ breast. Draw the back line from 1 through D. From this
line (point A1) to K is the blade measure, 10 inches.
This is ⅔ of a 30 size, as shown by the number 15 on the square.
Take ¼ of this, which is 3¾, and place it from K to L.
Draw a line up and down from K and one up from L.
Divide the distance L to top line in halves, which locates the star.
Point Y is in the middle between the star and the top line. O to 2 is ⅛
of 15.
From 2 to Z, which is in the middle between the star and Y, draw a line.
Curve the armhole from X to 12.
A1 to G is one-half of the full breast, 18 inches.
In the middle between G and K locate point P, from which point a line is
drawn up to E. E to F is ⅙ breast, 3 inches.
From F through G draw a straight front line. F to N is ⅙ breast, 3
inches.
Apply the front length from 1 inch in front of J at waist up to line E,
less the width of top of back, and locate E by the measure, whether it
goes above or below the top line. In this case it falls on the top line.
From E to Y draw a line and place the distance 2 X of the back from E to
locate 13, and finish the armhole. Line K to 00 is the same distance as
from Z to X.
Divide the distance G K into three parts, giving points S and T. From S
go back ½ inch to U. Also divide the distance from the front waist line
at H to the side at J into 3 parts, to locate the points Q and R.
Now from U through Q draw a straight line, and draw another from T
through R. Measure the distance on the waist line from D to H, which
will be found to be 18 inches. Deduct 1 inch from this, leaving 17.
[Illustration: DIA. 52]
Width, 17.
½ waist, 12½.
————————
Difference, 4½.
This difference is to govern the darts, each of which will therefore
require a width of 2⅛ inches.
Place this 2⅛ inches equally on each side of Q to 4 and 5, and of R to 6
and 7.
From the point V, which is about ⅓ way from U to Q, draw the dart lines
through 4 and 5, and let the line below 4 to A be straight down, and
that from 5 to B have only a slight spring from a straight line.
Draw in the seams from W through 6 and 7, holding the line from 6 to C
straight, and giving that from 7 to D a little spring—say about 1 inch
forward from a line drawn down at right angles with the waist line.
Divide the distance between A1 on the back and G, which gives point 12.
From D at back of waist place ½ of the waist measure and 1 inch to point
9.
From the front at H to 4, 5, 6 and 7 to 8 place ¼ of the waist less 1
inch.
Then draw in the under-arm seams from 12 through 8 and 9, adding a
little spring below the waist line to E and F.
Apply the length from E to M at the bottom, which for this draft is 23
inches.
From M draw a straight line parallel with the waist line to T.
In the middle between T and 8 mark a point, which is E, and from E to M
draw a straight line.
Follow this line from E to D, and a trifle above it locate C; draw to B,
and then even across from B will be A. From this point draw down to the
line M.
Reduce the width of shoulder from X to 3, 1 to 1½ inch, for small sizes
1 inch, but for larger sizes 1½ inch is preferable. The same must be
reduced on the front shoulder from 13 to 14. The form from E to N is for
a front to button up to the neck, and usually has a standing collar.
If, however, it is desired to have an open front, measure from E down
the front line to point 20, the opening wanted, which may be 10, 12 or
14 inches, always remembering that the width of the top of the back must
be subtracted.
Beyond G go out ½ inch, and then curve the front edge as shown.
Even with point E at the lower part of the vest draw a line across,
which gives the bottom of the back—the line F to G.
As the vest is generally worn over a corset, it would be too large
around the waist if cut by the measure taken over a dress, so we must
reduce the size at the waist by inserting a V from 16 to 15, which will
be ½ inch in width.
DIAGRAM 53.—After following the explanations given for Diagram 52, we
place above point E to 1 the width of the top of the back, which is 2 to
O on the preceding diagram.
Having located the point to which we want the opening to extend—at G for
instance—draw a straight line from G to the shoulder point E.
From just in front of the line squared up from E, start to curve the
outer edge, drawing it so that it will be a trifle inside of the line at
4 and ending at G.
Go back from E ½ inch, make the distance 1 to 2 the same as 3 and E, and
draw out the shape of the collar as shown. The collar can then be traced
out on a separate piece of paper.
All the points on this diagram are drawn in the same way as those on the
foregoing, but for this vest we reduce the front by one dart only.
In drafting, however, it is best to first draw both darts. Then knowing
the amount which must be taken out, we can so modify it that it will be
right with one dart.
[Illustration: DIA. 53]
While we cannot cut out the total amount of the two darts in one, we can
reduce the size by one dart by making its width from R to S ⅓ less than
the full amount of the two darts, and we can then reduce to the size
required under the arm at Y.
The position of the dart in the middle between the two original darts
has already been so clearly explained and illustrated that it is not
necessary to go over it again.