DIAGRAM 20.—This pattern retains its shape above the waist as cut.
Below, any amount may be added, according to the effect desired.
By adding 4 to 6 inches on either side of the original, we gain the
lines D and G, giving sufficient fullness to produce three plaits in the
back skirt. That from E to D being the one in the center, and F to G
those on the sides. From A, as pivot, sweep the length each way from C.
DIAGRAM 21.—For a short jacket the sidebody should not have too much
fullness, and therefore an addition of from 1 to 1½ inch at 1 and 2 will
be about right.
DIAGRAM 22.—This is plain, with only one dart, with a reduction in size
on the side-seam. It is usually cut with the sidebody attached from O
downward.
In such cases overlap the sidebody and front below the hip till the
distance between them is 1 inch at D.
The dart is then only cut as far down as O, and a little more spring
added at C.
The amount added for lap at front is 1 inch, and two styles of turnover
for the lapel are shown.
[Illustration: DIA. 24 DIA. 23]