Mark along the pattern above the waist, down the front and the darts.
Place on line C, which is the same as on the other diagrams, 1 inch for
extra hip, and draw from B a straight line to D.
Point A is in the middle between the dart and side-seam, and is the
pivot from which to sweep the length from D forward to the back dart.
Forward from the back dart it runs straight across.
This forepart can be cut with only one dart, as shown on Diagrams 12 and
22, or if a loose front is preferable the darts are left out, only that
the side-seam at B is reduced from 1 to 1½ inch, and a small amount is
taken off at D.
Should it be desirable to have fullness or plaits only in the back, then
it obviously needs no addition on the sidebody (Diagram 18) at G, but
will retain the shape F of the dotted line, and of course have nothing
added from D to E.
The addition of 1 inch as given will cast considerable fullness in the
skirt, and for current styles is just right for jackets whose length is
from 33 to 38 inches.
If, however, the coat is made 40 to 50 inches long, the spread caused by
the lines drawn through the 1 inch increase would be altogether too
large at bottom.
Therefore for long garments the distance to be added at D and E, or on
the other points on the hip line, should be no more than ½ inch, which
would give ample fullness for a long garment.
The addition to be added for a double-breasted shape may be 3 to 4
inches, and this should run parallel with the original front edge, which
is represented by the dotted line.
The shape of the turnover lapel being a matter of taste, no set rule can
be established.
[Illustration: DIA. 19. DIA. 18.]
[Illustration: DIA. 22 DIA. 21 DIA. 20]