DIAGRAM 23.—This diagram shows what deviation can be made from the
original draft, as shown by the dotted lines, when two darts are drawn
in.
First it is decided to have the front edge to run from O past P back to
R.
The front dart, as usually cut, would reach R just at the corner,
resulting in rather a bad effect. To prevent this we transfer the dart
to the middle between the two and draw it backward at the bottom, so
that its front-seam will be very nearly parallel with that of the front
edge.
We locate the pocket and let the dart reach only to its front end.
The width of the dart, which can be made as large as both darts for a
close fit, may, however, be only ⅔ of both darts, the ⅓ left over being
no detriment to a cutaway jacket—in fact, rather beneficial.
As point V will be sewn to the front of the pocket, so will point Z
reach to Y, and therefore the side-seam will run from Y to X, less the
amount of the width of the dart.
DIAGRAM 24.—This shows a cutaway, with 1 inch added over the center line
at O and G, and cut away just on the front edge at H.
If we extend the two darts down to the bottom, the first one will cut
directly in the curve of the front.
In order to obviate the bad effect this would produce, we cut out only
one dart and start it backward beyond the curve, or in such a position
that below the waist line it will very nearly run parallel with the
side-seam.
This one dart may be the full size of the two required, or only the size
of one; but in the latter case reduce on the side-seam, from D to E, ½
of a dart as shown.