DIAGRAM 16.—The jacket drafted, as illustrated and explained for Diagram
15, is to measure, and will therefore cling close to the figure over the
hips.
To produce the skirt part with a certain amount of drapery, some
addition is required over the pattern as drawn.
It is not necessary to draw a new pattern to obtain the extra fullness
that may be desired, as it can be marked out directly on the cloth.
Yet when it occurs that the amount of material is scant, it will be
advisable to have a correct pattern.
We take the back first (see Diagram 16), mark along its edges down to
the waist, and one inch below the waist line mark another line as B, and
6 inches below another as C.
[Illustration: DIA. 16. DIA. 17.]
The original pattern is represented by the dotted lines.
Now for a full-skirted coat that will show considerable fullness below
the waist, add 1 inch from 3 to 4, and the same from 1 to 2.
Then draw straight lines from the edge of the pattern on line B through
2 and 4, which will reach D and E.
Mark a point in the middle of waist as A, and pivoting at this point
sweep the bottom each way to gain the right length.
DIAGRAM 17.—The first sidebody is marked along the edges down to the
waist.
One inch below this a line is drawn as marked by B, and 6 inches farther
down is drawn the line C.
On each side of the original pattern from F to G and H to J place 1
inch, and then draw straight lines from the sides of the pattern on line
B through J and G, which will reach E and D.
The center A is used as a pivot to sweep the bottom.
DIAGRAM 18.—Mark from the waist line up as shown. The same 1 inch is
placed below A to B, and the hip line is 6 inches from A.
From F to G place 1 inch, and from D to E the same amount. Draw straight
lines from line B through points G and E, which will reach to J and H.
From the center A sweep the lower edge.