While the ship was in Hicks's Bay, the inhabitants of the adjoining

coast were found to be very hostile. This gave much uneasiness to our

navigators, and was indeed contrary to their expectation; for they had

hoped that the report of their power and clemency had spread to a

greater extent. At day-break, on the 1st of November, they counted no

less than five and forty canoes that were coming from the shore

towards the Endeavour; and these were followed by several more from

another place. Some of the Indians traded fairly; but others of them

took what was handed down to them without making any return, and added

derision to fraud. The insolence of one of them was very remarkable.

Some linen hanging over the ship's side to dry, this man without any

ceremony untied it, and put it up in his bundle. Being immediately

called to, and required to return it, instead of doing so, he let his

canoe drop astern, and laughed at the English. A musket which was

fired over his head, did not put a stop to his mirth. From a second

musket, which was loaded with small shot, he shrunk a little, when the

shot struck him upon his back; but he regarded it no more than one of

our men would have done the stroke of a rattan, and continued with

great composure to pack up the linen which he hard stolen. All the

canoes now dropped astern, and set up their song of defiance, which

lasted till they were at about four hundred yards' distance from the

ship. As they did not appear to have a design of attacking our

voyagers, Lieutenant Cook was unwilling to do them any hurt; and yet

he thought that their going off in a bravado might have a bad effect

when it should be reported on shore. To convince them therefore, that

they were still in his power, though far beyond the reach of any

missile weapon with which they were acquainted, he ordered a four

pounder to be fired in such a manner as to pass near them. As the shot

happened to strike the water, and to rise several times at a great

distance beyond the canoes, the Indians were so much terrified, that

without once looking behind them, they paddled away as fast as they

were able.

In standing westward from a small island called Mowtohora, the

Endeavour suddenly shoaled her water front seventeen to ten fathom. As

the lieutenant knew that she was not far off from some small islands

and rocks, which lead been seen before it was dark, and which he had

intended to have passed that evening, he thought it more prudent to

tack, and to spend the night under Mowtohora, where he was certain

that there was no danger. It was happy for himself, and for all our

voyagers, that he formed this resolution. In the morning they

discovered ahead of them several rocks, some of which were level with

the surface of the water, and some below it; and the striking against

which could not in the hour of darkness, have been avoided. In passing

between these rocks and the main, the ship had only from ten to seven

fathom water.

While Mr. Cook was near an island which he called the Mayor, the

inhabitants of the neighbouring coast displayed many instances of

hostility, and, in their traffic with our navigators, committed

various acts of fraud and robbery. As the lieutenant intended to

continue in the place five or six days, in order to make an

observation of the transit of Mercury, it was absolutely necessary for

the prevention of future mischief, to convince these people that the

English were not to be ill treated with impunity. Accordingly, some

small shot were fired at a thief of uncommon insolence, and a musket

ball was discharged through the bottom of his boat. Upon this it was

paddled to about a hundred yards' distance; and to the surprise of Mr.

Cook and his friends, the Indians in the other canoes took not the

least notice of their wounded companion, though he bled very much, but

returned to the ship, and continued to trade with the most perfect

indifference and unconcern. For a considerable time they dealt fairly.

At last, however, one of them thought fit to move off with two

different pieces of cloth which had been given for the same weapon.

When he had gotten to such a distance, that he thought himself secure

of his prizes, a musket was fired after him, which fortunately struck

the boat just at the water's edge, and made two holes in her side.

This excited such an alarm, that not only the people who were shot at,

but all the rest of the canoes, made off with the utmost expedition.

As the last proof of superiority, our commander ordered a round shot

to be fired over them, and not a boat stopped till they got to land.

After an early breakfast on the 9th of November, Lieutenant Cook went

on shore, with Mr. Green, and proper instruments, to observe the

transit of Mercury. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were of the party. The

weather had for some time been very thick, with much rain; but this

day proved so favourable, that not a cloud intervened during the whole

transit. The observation of the ingress was made by Mr. Green alone,

Mr. Cook being employed in taking the Sun's altitude to ascertain the

time.

While the gentlemen were thus engaged on shore, they were alarmed by

the firing of a great gun from the ship: and on their return received

the following account of the transaction from Mr. Gore, the second

lieutenant, who had been left commanding officer on board. During the

carrying on of a trade with some small canoes, two very large ones

came up full of men. In one of the canoes were forty-seven persons,

all of whom were armed with pikes, stones, and darts, and assumed the

appearance of a hostile intention. However, after a little time they

began to traffic, some of them offering their arms, and one of them a

square piece of cloth, which makes a part of their dress, called

_haabow_. Mr. Gore having agreed for it, sent down the price,

which was a piece of British cloth, and expected his purchase. But as

soon as the Indian had gotten Mr. Gore's cloth in his possession, he

refused to part with his own, and put off his canoe. Upon being

threatened for his fraud, he and his companions began to sing their

war song in defiance, and shook their paddles. Though their insolence

did not proceed to an attack, and only defied Mr. Gore to take any

remedy in his power, he was so provoked, that he levelled a musket,

loaded with ball, at the offender, while he was holding the cloth in

his hand, and shot him dead. When the Indian fell, all the canoes put

off to some distance, but continued to keep together in such a manner

that it was apprehended they might still meditate an attack. To secure

therefore a safe passage for the boat of the Endeavour, which was

wanted on shore, a round shot was fired with so much effect over

their heads, as to make them all flee with the utmost precipitation.

It was matter of regret to Lieutenant Cook that Mr. Gore had not, in

the case of the offending Indian, tried the experiment of a few small

shot, which had been successful in former instances of robbery.

On Friday, the 10th, our commander, accompanied by Mr. Banks and the

other gentlemen, went with two boats, to examine a large river that

empties itself into the head of Mercury Bay. As the situation they

were now in abounded with conveniences, the lieutenant has taken care

to point them out, for the benefit of future navigators. If any

occasion should ever render it necessary for a ship either to winter

here, or to stay for a considerable length of time, tents might be

built on a high point or peninsula in this place, upon ground

sufficiently spacious for the purpose; and they might easily be made

impregnable to the whole force of the country. Indeed the most skilful

engineer in Europe could not choose a situation better adapted to

enable a small number to defend themselves against a greater. Among

other accommodations which the Endeavour's company met with in Mercury

Bay, they derived an agreeable refreshment from some oyster beds,

which they had fortunately discovered. The oysters, which were as good

as ever came from Colchester, and about the same size, were so

plentiful, that not the boat only, but the ship itself, might have

been loaded in one tide.

On Wednesday, the 15th, Lieutenant Cook sailed out of Mercury Bay.

This name has been given to it, on account of the observation which

had there been made of the transit of that planet over the sun. The

river where oysters had been so plentifully found, he called Oyster

River. There is another river, at the head of the Bay, which is the

best and safest place for a ship that wants to stay any length of

time. From the number of mangroves about it, the lieutenant named it

Mangrove River. In several parts of Mercury Bay, our voyagers saw,

thrown upon the shore, great quantities of iron sand, which is brought

down by every little rivulet of freshwater that finds its way from the

country. This is a demonstration, that there is ore of that metal not

far inland; and yet none of the inhabitants of New Zealand, who had

yet been seen, knew the use of iron, or set upon it the least degree

of value. They had all of them preferred the most worthless and

useless trifle not only to a nail, but to any tool of that metal.

Before the Endeavour left the bay, the ship's name and that of the

commander were cut upon one of the trees near the watering place,

together with the date of the year and month when our navigators were

there. Besides this, Mr. Cook, after displaying the English colours

took formal possession of the place in the name of his Britannic

Majesty, King George the Third.

In the range from Mercury Bay, several canoes, on the 18th, put off

from different places, and advanced towards the Endeavour. When two of

them, in which there might be about sixty men, came within the reach

of the human voice, the Indians sung their war song, but seeing that

little notice was taken of them, they threw a few stones at the

English, and then rowed off towards the shore. In a short time,

however, they returned, as if with a fixed resolution to provoke our

voyagers to a battle, animating themselves by their song as they had

done before. Tupia, without any directions from the gentlemen of the

Endeavour, began to expostulate with the natives, and told them that

our people had weapons which could destroy them in a moment. Their

answer to this expostulation was, in their own language, 'Come on

shore, and we will kill you all.'--'Well,' replied Tupia, 'but why

should you molest us while we are at sea? As we do not wish to fight,

we shall not accept your challenge to come on shore; and here there is

no pretence for a quarrel, the sea being no more your property than

the ship.' This eloquence, which greatly surprised Lieutenant Cook and

his friends, as they had not suggested to Tupia any of the arguments

he made use of, produced no effect upon the minds of the Indians, who

soon renewed their attack. The oratory of a musket, which was fired

through one of their boats, quelled their courage, and sent them

instantly away.

While our commander was in the Bay of Islands, he had a favourable

opportunity of examining the interior part of the country and its

produce. At daybreak, therefore on the 30th of the month, he set out

in the pinnace and long-boat accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander,

and Tupia, and found the inlet, at which they entered, end in a river,

about nine miles above the ship. Up this river, to which was given the

name of the Thames, they proceeded till near noon, when they were

fourteen miles within its entrance. As the gentlemen then found the

face of the country to continue nearly the same, without any

alteration in the course of the stream, and had no hope of tracing it

to its source, they landed on the west side, to take a view of the

lofty trees which every where adorned its banks. The trees were of a

kind which they had seen before, both in Poverty Bay, and Hawke's Bay,

though only at a distance. They had not walked a hundred yards into

the woods, when they met with one of the trees, which, at the height

of six feet above the ground, was nineteen feet eight inches in the

girt. Lieutenant Cook, having a quadrant with him, measured its height

from the root to the first branch, and found it to be eighty-nine

feet. It was as straight as an arrow, and tapered but very little in

proportion to its height; so that, in the lieutenant's judgment, there

must have been three hundred and fifty-six feet of solid timber in it

exclusive of the branches. As the party advanced, they saw many other

trees, which were still larger. A young one they cut down, the wood of

which was heavy and solid, not fit for masts, but such as would make

the finest plank in the world. The carpenter of the ship, who was with

the party, said that the timber resembled that of the pitch-pine,

which is lightened by tapping. If it should appear, that some such

method would be successful in lightening these trees, they would then

furnish masts superior to those of any country in Europe. As the wood

was swampy, the gentlemen could not range far; but they found many

stout trees of other kinds, with which they were totally unacquainted,

and specimens of which they brought away.

On the 22d, another instance occurred in which the commanding officer

left on board did not know how to exercise his power with the good

sense and moderation of Mr. Cook. While some of the natives were in

the ship below with Mr. Banks, a young man, who was upon the deck,

stole a half minute glass, and was detected just as he was carrying it

off. Mr. Hicks, in his indignation against the offender, was pleased

to order that he should be punished, by giving him twelve lashes with

a cat o' nine tails. When the other Indians, who were on board, saw

him seized for the purpose, they attempted to rescue him; and being

resisted, they called for their arms, which were handed from the

canoes. At the same time, the people of one of the canoes attempted to

come up the side of the Endeavour. The tumult having called up Mr.

Banks and Tupia, the natives ran to the latter, and solicited his

interposition. All, however, which he could do, as Mr. hicks continued

inexorable, was to assure them, that nothing was intended against the

life of their companion, and that it was necessary that he should

suffer some punishment for his offence. With this explanation they

appeared to be satisfied; and when the punishment had been inflicted,

an old man among the spectators, who was supposed to be the criminal's

father, gave him a severe beating, and sent him down into his canoe.

Notwithstanding this, the Indians were far from being reconciled to

the treatment which their countryman had received. Their cheerful

confidence was gone; and though they promised, at their departure, to

return with some fish, the English saw them no more.

On the 29th of November, Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and

others with them, were in a situation somewhat critical and alarming.

Having landed upon an island in the neighbourhood of Cape Bret, they

were in a few minutes surrounded by two or three hundred people.

Though the Indians were all armed, they came on in so confused and

straggling a manner, that it did not appear that any injury was

intended by them; and the English gentlemen were determined that

hostilities should not begin on their part. At first the natives

continued quiet; but their weapons were held ready to strike, and they

seemed to be rather irresolute than peaceable. While the lieutenant

and his friends remained in a state of suspense, another party of

Indians came up; and the boldness of the whole body being increased by

the augmentation of their numbers, they began the dance and song,

which are their preludes to a battle. An attempt, that was made by a

number of them, to seize the two boats which had brought our voyagers

to land, appeared to be the signal for a general attack. It now became

necessary for Mr. Cook to exert himself with vigour Accordingly, he

discharged his musket, which was loaded with small shot, at one of the

forwardest of the assailants, and Mr. Banks, and two of our men, fired

immediately afterwards. Though this made the natives fall back in some

confusion, nevertheless, one of the chiefs, who was at the distance of

about twenty yards, had the courage to rally them, and, calling loudly

to his companions, led them on to the charge. Dr. Solander instantly

discharged his piece at this champion, who, upon feeling the shot,

stopped short, and then ran away with the rest of his countrymen.

Still, however, they did not disperse, but got upon rising ground, and

seemed only to want some leader of resolution to renew their assault.

As they were now gotten beyond the reach of small shot, the English

fired with ball, none of which taking place, the Indians continued

together in a body. While our people were in this doubtful situation,

which lasted about a quarter of an hour, the ship, from which a much

greater number of natives were seen than could be discovered on shore,

brought her broad side to bear, and entirely dispersed them, by firing

a few shot over their heads. In this skirmish, only two of them were

hurt with the small shot, and not a single life was lost; a case which

would not have happened if Lieutenant Cook had not restrained his men,

who either from fear or the love of mischief, shewed as much

impatience to destroy the Indians, as a sportsman to kill his game.

Such was the difference between the disposition of the common seamen

and marines, and that of their humane and judicious commander.

On the same day Mr. Cook displayed a very exemplary act of discipline.

Some of the ship's people, who when the natives were to be punished

for a fraud, assumed the inexorable justice of a Lycurgus, thought fit

to break into one of their plantations, and to dig up a quantity of

potatoes. For this the lieutenant ordered each of them to receive

twelve lashes, after which two of them were discharged. But the third,

in a singular strain of morality, insisted upon it, that it was no

crime in an Englishman to plunder an Indian plantation. The method

taken by our commander to refute his casuistry, was to send him back

to his confinement, and not, permit him to be released, till he had

been punished with six lashes more.

The Endeavour, on the 5th of December, was in the most imminent hazard

of being wrecked. At four o'clock in the morning of that day our

voyagers weighed, with a light breeze; but it being variable with

frequent calms, they made little way. From that time till the

afternoon they kept turning out of the bay, and about ten at night

were suddenly becalmed, so that the ship could neither wear nor

exactly keep her station. The tide or current setting strong, she

drove toward land so fast; that before any measures could be taken for

her security, she was within a cable's length of the breakers. Though

our people had thirteen fathom water, the ground was so foul, that

they did not dare to drop their anchor. In this crisis the pinnace

being immediately hoisted out to take the ship in tow, and the men

sensible of their danger, exerted themselves to the utmost, a faint

breeze sprang up off the land, and our navigators perceived, with

unspeakable joy, that the vessel made headway. So near was she to the

shore, that Tupia, who was ignorant of the hair's breadth escape the

company had experienced, was at this very time conversing with the

Indians upon the beach, whose voices were distinctly heard,

notwithstanding the roar of the breakers. Mr. Cook and his friends now

thought that all danger was over; but about an hour afterwards, just

as the man in the chains had cried 'seventeen fathom,' the ship

struck. The shock threw them into the utmost consternation: and almost

instantly the man in the chains cried out 'five fathom.' By this time,

the rock on which the ship had struck being to the windward, she went

off without having received the least damage; and the water very soon

deepening to twenty fathoms, she again sailed in security.

The inhabitants in the Bay of Islands were found to be far more

numerous than in any other part of New Zealand which Lieutenant Cook

had hitherto visited. It did not appear that they were united under

one head; and, though their towns were fortified, they seemed to live

together in perfect amity.

The Endeavour on the 9th of December, lying becalmed in Doubtless Bay,

an opportunity was taken to inquire of the natives concerning their

country; and our navigators learned from them, by the help of Tupia,

that at the distance of three days' rowing in their canoes, at a place

called Moore-Whennua, the land would take a short turn to the

southward, and thence extend no more to the west. This place the

English gentlemen concluded to be the land discovered by Tasman, and

which had been named by him Cape Maria van Diemen. The lieutenant,

finding the inhabitants so intelligent, inquired further, if they knew

of any country besides their own. To this they answered, that they had

never visited any other; but that their ancestors had told them, that

there was a country of great extent, to the north-west by north, or

north-north west, called Ulimaroa, to which some people had sailed in

a very large canoe; and that only a part of them had returned, who

reported, that, after a passage of a month, they had seen a country

where the people eat hogs.

On the 30th of December, our navigators saw the land, which they

judged to be Cape Maria van Diemen, and which corresponded with the

account that had been given of it by the Indians. The next day, from

the appearance of Mount Camel, they had a demonstration that, where

they now were, the breadth of New Zealand could not be more than two

or three miles from sea to sea. During this part of the navigation,

two particulars occurred which are very remarkable. In latitude 35° S.

and in the midst of summer, Lieutenant Cook met with a gale of wind,

which, from its strength and continuance, was such as he had scarcely

ever been in before: and he was three weeks in getting ten leagues to

the westward, and five weeks in getting fifty leagues; for at this

time being the 1st of January, 1770, it was so long since he had

passed Cape Bret. While the gale lasted, our voyagers ware happily at

a considerable distance from the land; since, otherwise, it was highly

probable that they would never have returned to relate their

adventures.

The shore at Queen Charlotte's Sound, where the English had arrived on

the 14th of January, seemed to form several bays, into one of which

the lieutenant proposed to carry the ship, which was now become very

foul, in order to careen her, to repair some defects, and to obtain a

recruit of wood and water. At day-break, the next morning, he stood in

for an inlet, and at eight got within the entrance. At nine o'clock,

there being little wind, and what there was being variable, the

Endeavour was carried by the tide or current within two cables' length

of the north-west shore where she had fifty-four fathom water. By the

help, of the boats she was gotten clear; and about two, our people

anchored in a very safe and convenient cove. Soon after, Mr. Cook,

with most of the gentlemen, landed upon the coast, where they found a

fine stream of excellent water, and wood in the greatest plenty.

Indeed the land, in this part of the country, was one forest, of vast

extent. As the gentlemen had brought the seine with them, it was

hauled once or twice; and with such success, that different sorts of

fish were caught amounting nearly to three hundred weight. The equal

distribution of these among the ship's company, furnished them with a

very agreeable refreshment.

When Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and some others,

landed on the 16th, they met with an Indian family, among whom they

found horrid and indisputable proofs of the custom of eating human

flesh. Not to resume so disagreeable a subject, it may here be

observed once for all, that evidences of the same custom appeared on

various occasions.

On the next day a delightful object engaged the attention of our

voyagers. The ship lying at the distance of somewhat less than a

quarter of a mile from the shore, they were awakened by the singing of

an incredible number of birds, who seemed to strain their throats in

emulation of each other. This wild melody was infinitely superior to

any they had ever heard of the same kind, and seemed to be like small

bells, most exquisitely tuned. It is probable, that the distance, and

the water between, might be of no small advantage to the sound. Upon

inquiry, the gentlemen were informed, that the birds here always began

to sing about two hours after midnight; and that, continuing their

music till sunrise, they were silent the rest of the day. In this last

respect they resembled the nightingales of our own country.

On the 18th, Lieutenant Cook went out in the pinnace to take a view of

the bay in which the ship was now at anchor; and found it to be of

great extent, consisting of numberless small harbours and coves, in

every direction. The lieutenant confined his excursion to the western

side, and the coast where he landed being an impenetrable forest,

nothing could be seen worthy of notice. As our commander and his

friends were returning, they saw a single man in a canoe fishing:

rowing up to him, to their great surprise, he took not the least

notice of them; and even when they were alongside of him, continued to

follow his occupation, without adverting to them any more than if they

had been invisible. This behaviour was not, however the result either

of sullenness or stupidity; for upon being requested to draw up his

net, that it might be examined, he readily complied. He shewed

likewise to our people his mode of fishing, which was simple and

ingenious.

When, on the 19th, the armourer's forge was set up, and all hands on

board were busy in careening, and in other necessary operations about

the vessel, some Indians, who had brought plenty of fish, exchanged

them for nails, of which they had now begun to perceive the use and

value. This may be considered as one instance in which they were

enlightened and benefited by their intercourse with our navigators.

While, on the 22d, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander employed themselves in

botanizing near the beach, our commander, taking a seaman with him,

ascended one of the hills of the country. Upon reaching its summit, he

found the view of the inlet, the head of which he had a little before

in vain attempted to discover in the pinnace, intercepted by hills

still higher than that on which he stood, and which were rendered

inaccessible by impenetrable woods. He was, however, amply rewarded

for his labour; for he saw the sea on the eastern side of the country,

and a passage leading from it to that on the west, a little to the

eastward of the entrance of the inlet where the ship lay. The main

land, which was on the south-east side of this inlet, appeared to be a

narrow ridge of very high hills, and to form part of the south-west

side of the strait. On the opposite side, the land trended away east

as far as the eye could reach; and to the south-east there was

discerned an opening to the sea, which washes the eastern coast. The

lieutenant saw also, on the east side of the inlet, some islands which

he had before taken to be part of the main land. In returning to the

ship, he examined the harbours and coves that lie behind the islands

which he had seen from the hills. The next day was employed by him in

further surveys and discoveries.

During a visit to the Indians, on the 24th, Tupia being of the party,

they were observed to be continually talking of guns and shooting

people. For this subject of their conversation, the English gentlemen

could not at all account. But, after perplexing themselves with

various conjectures, they at length learned, that, on the 21st, one of

our officers, under the pretence of going out to fish, had rowed up to

a hippah, or village, on the coast. When he had done so, two or three

canoes coming off towards his boat, his fears suggested that an attack

was intended, in consequence of which three muskets were fired, one

with small shot, and two with ball, at the Indians, who retired with

the utmost precipitation. It is highly probable, that they had come

out with friendly intentions, for such intentions were expressed by

their behaviour, both before and afterwards. This action of the

officer exhibited a fresh instance, how little some of the people

under Lieutenant Cook had imbibed of the wise, discreet, and humane

spirit of their commander.

On the morning of the 26th, the lieutenant went again out in the boat,

with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and entered one of the bays, which

lie on the east side of the inlet, in order to obtain another sight of

the strait which passed between the eastern and western seas. Having

landed, for this purpose, at a convenient place, they climbed a hill

of very considerable height, from which they had a full view of the

strait, with the land on the opposite shore, which they judged to be

about four leagues distant. As it was hazy in the horizon, they could

not see far to the south-east; but Mr. Cook saw enough to determine

him to search the passage with the ship as soon as he should put to

sea. The gentlemen found, on the top of the hill, a parcel of loose

stones, with which they erected a pyramid, and left in it some musket

balls, small shot, beads, and such other things, which they happened

to have about them, as were likely to stand the test of time. These,

not being of Indian workmanship, would convince any European, who

should come to the place and pull it down, that natives of Europe had

been there before. After this, the lieutenant and his friends went to

a town of which the Indians had informed them, and which, like one

they had already seen, was built upon a small island or rock, so

difficult of access, that they gratified their curiosity at the risk

of their lives. Here, as had been the case in former visits to the

inhabitants of that part of the country near which the ship now lay,

they were received with open arms, carried through the whole of the

place, and shown all that it contained. The town consisted of between

eighty and a hundred houses, and had only one fighting stage. Mr.

Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, happened to have with them a few

nails and ribands, and some paper, with which the people were so

highly gratified, that when the gentlemen went away, they filled the

English boat with dried fish, of which it appeared that they had laid

up large quantities.

A report was spread, that one of the men, that had been so rashly

fired upon by the officer who had visited the hippah, under the

pretence of fishing, was dead of his wounds. But, on the 29th, the

lieutenant had the great consolation of discovering that this report

was groundless. On the same day he went again on shore, upon the

western point of the inlet, and, from a hill of considerable height,

had a view of the coast to the north-west. The furthest land he could

see, in that quarter, was an island at the distance of about ten

leagues, lying not far from the main. Between this island and the

place were he stood, he discovered, close under the shore, several

other islands, forming many bays, in which there appeared to be good

anchorage for shipping. After he had set off the different points for

his survey, he erected another pile of stones, in which he left a

piece of silver coin, with some musket balls and beads, and a fragment

of an old pendant flying at the top.

On the 30th of January, the ceremony was performed of giving name to

the inlet where our voyagers now lay, and of erecting a memorial of

the visit which they had made to this place. The carpenter having

prepared two posts for the purpose, our commander ordered them to be

inscribed with the ship's name, and the dates of the year and the

month. One of these he set up at the watering place, hoisting the

union-flag upon the top of it; and the other he carried over to the

island that lies nearest the sea, and which is called by the natives

Motuara. He went first, accompanied by Mr. Monkhouse and Tupia, to the

neighbouring village, or hippah, where he met with an old man, who had

maintained a friendly intercourse with the English. To this old man,

and several Indians besides, the lieutenant, by means of Tupia,

explained his design, which, he informed them, was to erect a mark

upon the island, in order to shew to any other ship, which should

happen to come thither, that our navigators had been there before. To

this the inhabitants readily consented, and promised that they would

never pull it down. He then gave something to every one present, and

to the old man a silver threepence, and some spike-nails, with the

king's broad arrow cut deep upon them. These were things which Mr.

Cook thought were the most likely to be long preserved. After this, he

conveyed the post to the highest part of the island; and, having fixed

it firmly in the ground, hoisted upon it the union flag, and honoured

the inlet with the name of Queen Charlotte's Sound. At the same time,

he took formal possession of this and the adjacent country, in the

name and for the use of his Majesty King George the Third. The

ceremony was concluded by the gentlemen's drinking a bottle of wine to

her majesty's health; and the bottle being given to the old man, who

had attended them up the hill, he was highly delighted with his

present.

A philosopher, perhaps might inquire on what ground Lieutenant Cook

could take formal possession of this part of New Zealand, in the name

and _for the use_ of the King of Great Britain, when the country

was already inhabited, and of course belonged to those by whom it was

occupied, and whose ancestors might have resided in it for many

preceding ages. To this the best answer seems to be, that the

lieutenant, in the ceremony performed by him, had no reference to the

original inhabitants, or any intention to deprive them of their

natural rights, but only to preclude the claims of future European

navigators, who, under the auspices and for the benefit of their

respective states or kingdoms, might form pretensions, to which they

were not entitled by prior discovery.

On the 31st, our voyagers having completed their wooding, and filled

their water casks, Mr. Cook sent out two parties, one to cut and make

brooms, and another to catch fish. In the evening there was a strong

gale from the north-west, with such a heavy rain, that the little wild

musicians on shore suspended their song, which till now had been

constantly heard during the night with a pleasure that it was

impossible to lose without regret. The gale, on the 1st of February,

increased to a storm, with heavy gusts from the high land, one of

which broke the hawser, that had been fastened to the shore, and

induced the necessity of letting go another anchor. Though, towards

midnight, the gale became more moderate, the rain continued with so

much violence, that the brook, which supplied the ship with water,

overflowed its banks; in consequence of which ten small casks, that

had been filled the day before, were carried away, and,

notwithstanding the most diligent search for them, could not be

recovered.

The Endeavour, on Monday the 5th, got under sail; but the wind soon

failing, our commander was obliged again to come to anchor, a little

above Motuara. As he was desirous of making still further inquiries,

whether any memory of Tasman had been preserved in New Zealand, he

directed Tupia to ask of the old man before mentioned, who had come on

board to take his leave of the English gentlemen, whether he had ever

heard that such a vessel as theirs had before visited the country. To

this he replied in the negative; but said, that his ancestors had told

him, that there once had arrived a small vessel from a distant land,

called Ulimaroa, in which were four men, who upon their reaching the

shore were all killed. On being asked where this country lay, he

pointed to the northward. Of Ulimaroa, Lieutenant Cook had heard

something before, from the people about the Bay of Islands, who said,

that it had been visited by their ancestors. Tupia had also some

confused traditionary notions concerning it; but no certain conclusion

could be drawn either from his account or that of the old Indian.

Soon after the ship came to anchor the second time, Mr. Banks and Dr.

Solander, who had gone on shore to see if any gleanings of natural

knowledge remained, fell in, by accident, with the most agreeable

Indian family they had yet seen, and which afforded them a better

opportunity of remarking the personal subordination among the natives,

than had before offered. The whole behaviour of this family was

affable, obliging, and unsuspicious. It was matter of sincere regret

to the two gentlemen, that they had not sooner met with these people,

as a better acquaintance with the manners and disposition of the

inhabitants of the country might hence have been obtained in a day,

than had been acquired during the whole stay of the English upon the

coast.

When, on the 6th of February, Lieutenant Cook had gotten out of the

sound, he stood over to the eastward, in order to get the strait well

open before the tide of ebb approached. At seven in the evening, two

small islands, which lie off Cape Koamaroo, at the south-east head of

Queen Charlotte's Sound, bore east, at the distance of about four

miles. It was nearly calm, and the tide of ebb setting out, the

Endeavour, in a very short time, was carried by the rapidity of the

stream close upon one of the islands, which was a rock rising almost

perpendicularly out of the sea. The danger increased every moment, and

there was but one expedient to prevent the ship's being dashed to

pieces, the success of which a few moments would determine. She was

now within little more than a cable's length of the rock, and had

above seventy-five fathom water. But, upon dropping an anchor, and

veering above one hundred and fifty fathom of cable, she was happily

brought up. This, however would not have saved our navigators, if the

tide, which set south by east, had not, upon meeting with the island,

changed its direction to the south-east, and carried them beyond the

first point. In this situation they were not above two cables' length

from the rocks; and here they remained in the strength of the tide,

which set to the south-east, after the rate of at least five miles an

hour from a little after seven till midnight, when the tide abated,

and the vessel began to heave. By three in the morning, a light breeze

at north-west having sprung up, our voyagers sailed for the eastern

shore; though they made but little way, in consequence of the tide

being against them. The wind, however, having afterwards freshened,

and come to north and north-east, with this, and the tide of ebb, they

were in a short time hurried through the narrowest part of the strait,

and then stood away for the southernmost land they had in prospect.

There appeared, over this land, a mountain of stupendous height, which

was covered with snow. The narrowest part of the strait, through which

the Endeavour had been driven with such rapidity, lies between Cape

Tierawitte, on the coast of Eaheinomauwe, and Cape Koamaroo; the

distance between which our commander judged to be four or five

leagues. Notwithstanding the difficulties arising from this tide, now

its strength is known, the strait may be passed without danger.

Some of the officers started a notion, that Eaheinomauwe was not an

island, and that the land might stretch away to the south-east, from

between Cape Turnagain and Cape Palliser, there being a space of

between twelve and fifteen leagues which had not yet been seen. Though

Lieutenant Cook, from what he had observed the first time he

discovered the strait, and from many other concurrent circumstances,

had the strongest conviction that they were mistaken, he,

nevertheless, resolved to leave no possibility of doubt with respect

to an object of so much importance. For this purpose he gave such a

direction to the navigation of the ship, as would most effectually

tend to determine the matter. After a course of two days he called the

officers upon deck, and asked them, whether they were not now

satisfied that Eaheinomauwe was an island. To this question they

readily answered in the affirmative; and all doubts being removed, the

lieutenant proceeded to farther researches.

During Mr. Cook's long and minute examination of the coast of New

Zealand, he gave names to the bays, capes, promontories, islands, and

rivers, and other places which were seen or visited by him; excepting

in those cases where their original appellations were learned from the

natives. The names he fixed upon were either derived from certain

characteristic or adventitious circumstances, or were conferred in

honour of his friends and acquaintance, chiefly those of the naval

line. Such of the readers of the present work as desire to be

particularly informed concerning them, will naturally have recourse to

the indications of them in the several maps on which they are

described.

The ascertaining of New Zealand to be an island did not conclude

Lieutenant Cook's examination of the nature, situation, and extent of

the country. After this, he completed his circumnavigation, by ranging

from Cape Turnagain southward along the eastern coast of Poenammoo,

round Cape South, and back to the western entrance of the strait be

had passed, and which was very properly named Cook's Strait. This

range, which commenced on the 9th of February, I shall not minutely

and regularly pursue; but content myself, as in the former course,

with mentioning such circumstances as are more directly adapted to my

immediate design.

In the afternoon of the 14th, when Mr. Banks was out in the boat a

shooting, our voyagers saw, with their glasses, four double canoes put

off from the shore towards him, having on board fifty-seven men. The

lieutenant, being alarmed for the safety of his friend, immediately

ordered signals to be made for his return; but he was prevented from

seeing them by the situation of the gun with regard to the ship.

However, it was soon with pleasure observed, that his boat was in

motion; and he was taken on board before the Indians, who perhaps had

not discerned him, came up. Their attention seemed to be wholly fixed

upon the ship. They came within about a stone's cast of her, and then

stopped, gazing at the English with a look of vacant astonishment.

Tupia in vain exerted his eloquence to prevail upon them to make a

nearer approach. After surveying our navigators some time, they left

them, and made towards the shore. The gentlemen could not help

remarking, on this occasion, the different dispositions and behaviour

of the different inhabitants of the country, at the first sight of the

Endeavour. The people now seen kept aloof with a mixture of timidity

and wonder; others had immediately commenced hostilities; the man who

was found fishing alone in his canoe appeared to regard our voyagers

as totally unworthy of notice; and some had come on board almost

without invitation, and with an air of perfect confidence and good

will. From the conduct of the last visitors, Lieutenant Cook gave the

land from which they had put off, and which had the appearance of an

island, the name of Lookers-on.

When an island, which lies about five leagues from the coast of

Tovy-Poenammoo, and which was named Banks's Island, was first

discovered in the direction of south by west, some persons on board

were of opinion, that they saw land bearing south-south-east, and

south-east by east. Our commander, who was himself upon the deck at

the time, told them that in his judgment it was no more than a cloud,

which, as the sun rose, would dissipate and vanish. Being, however

determined to leave no subject for disputation which experiment could

remove, he ordered the ship to steer in the direction which the

supposed country was said to bear. Having gone in this direction eight

and twenty miles, without discovering any signs of land, the Endeavour

resumed her intended course to the southward, it being the particular

view of the lieutenant to ascertain whether Poenammoo was an island or

a continent.

In passing some rocks on the 9th of March, in the night, it appeared

in the morning that the ship had been in the most imminent danger. Her

escape was indeed critical in the highest degree. To these rocks,

therefore, which, from their situation, are so well adapted to catch

unwary strangers, Mr. Cook gave the name of the Traps. On the same day

he reached a point of land which he called the South Cape, and which

he supposed, as proved in fact to be the case, the southern extremity

of the country.

In sailing, on Wednesday the 14th, the Endeavour passed a small narrow

opening in the land, where there seemed to be a very safe and

convenient harbour, formed by an island which lay eastward in the

middle of the opening. On the land, behind the opening, are mountains,

the summits of which were covered with snow, that appeared to have

recently fallen. Indeed our voyagers for two days past, had found the

weather extremely cold. On each side the entrance of the opening, the

land rises almost perpendicularly from the sea to a stupendous height.

For this reason Lieutenant Cook did not choose to carry the ship into

the harbour. He was sensible that no wind could blow there but right

in or right out: and he did not think it by any means advisable to put

into a place whence he could not have gotten out, but with a wind,

which, experience had taught him did not blow more than one day in a

month. Sagacious as this determination of our commander was, it did

not give universal satisfaction. He acted in it contrary to the

opinion of some persons on board, who expressed in strong terms their

desire of coming to harbour; not sufficiently considering, that

present convenience ought not to be purchased at the expense of

incurring great future disadvantages.

By the 27th of March, Mr. Cook had circumnavigated the whole country

of Tovy-Poenammoo, and arrived within sight of the island formerly

mentioned, which lies at the distance of nine leagues from the

entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound. Having at this time thirty tons

of empty water-casks on board, it was necessary to fill them before he

finally proceeded on his voyage. For this purpose he hauled round the

island, and entered a bay, situated between that and Queen Charlotte's

Sound, and to which the name was given of Admiralty Bay.

The business of wooding and watering having been completed on the

30th, and the ship being ready for the sea, the point now to be

determined was, what rout should be pursued in returning home, that

would be of most advantage to the public service. Upon this subject

the lieutenant thought proper to take the opinion of his officers. He

had himself a strong desire to return by Cape Horn, because that would

have enabled him to determine, whether there is or is not a southern

continent. But against this scheme it was a sufficient objection, that

our navigators must have kept in a high southern latitude, in the very

depth of winter, and in a vessel which was not thought to be in a

condition fit for the undertaking. The same reason was urged with

still greater force, against their proceeding directly for the Cape of

Good Hope, because no discovery of moment could be expected in that

rout. It was therefore resolved that they should return by the East

Indies; and that, with this view, they should steer westward, till

they should fall in with the east coast of New Holland, and then

follow the direction of that coast to the northward, till they should

arrive at its northern extremity. If that should be found

impracticable, it was further resolved, that they should endeavour to

fall in with the land, or islands, said to have been discovered by

Quiros.

In the six months which Lieutenant Cook had spent in the examination

of New Zealand, he made very large additions to the knowledge of

geography and navigation. That country was first discovered in the

year 1642, by Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutch navigator. He traversed the

eastern coast from latitude 34° 43', and entered the strait now called

Cook's Strait; but being attacked by the natives soon after he came to

an anchor, in the place which he named Murderer's Bay, he never went

on shore. Nevertheless, he assumed a kind of claim of the country, by

calling it Staaten Land, or the Land of the States, in honour of the

States General. It is now usually distinguished in maps and charts by

the name of New Zealand. The whole of the country, excepting that part

of the coast which was seen by Tasman from on board his ship,

continued from his time, to the voyage of the Endeavour, altogether

unknown. By many persons it has been supposed to constitute a part of

a southern continent; but it was now ascertained by Mr. Cook to

consist of two large islands, divided from each other by a strait or

passage, which is about four or five leagues broad. These islands are

situated between the latitudes of 34° and 48° south, and between the

longitudes of 181° and 194° west; a matter which Mr. Green determined

with uncommon exactness, from innumerable observations of the sun and

moon, and one of the transits of Mercury. The northernmost of these

islands is called by the natives Eaheinomauwe, and the southernmost

Tovy, or Tavai Poenammoo. It is not, however, certain, whether the

whole southern island, or only part of it, is comprehended under the

latter name.

Tovy Poenammoo is principally a mountainous, and to all appearance a

barren country. The only inhabitants and signs of inhabitants that

were discovered upon all the islands, were the people whom our

voyagers saw in Queen Charlotte's Sound, some that came off to them

under the snowy mountains, and several fires which were discerned to

the west of Cape Saunders. Eaheinomauwe has a much better appearance.

Though it is not only hilly but mountainous, even the hills and

mountains are covered with wood, and every valley has a rivulet of

water. The soil in these valleys and in the plains, many of which are

not overgrown with wood, is in general light, but fertile. It was the

opinion of Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, as well as of the other

gentlemen on board, that all kinds of European grain, plants, and

fruit would flourish here in the utmost luxuriance. There is reason to

conclude, from the vegetables which our navigators found in

Eaheinomauwe, that the winters are milder than those in England; and

the summer was experienced not to be hotter, though it was more

equally warm. If this country, therefore, should be settled by people

from Europe, they might, with a little industry, very soon be supplied

in great abundance, not merely with the necessaries, but even with the

luxuries of life.

In Eaheinomauwe there are no quadrupeds but dogs and rats. At least,

no other were seen by our voyagers; and the rats are so scarce that

they wholly escaped the notice of many on board. Of birds the species

are not numerous; and of these no one kind, excepting perhaps the

gannet, is exactly the same with those of Europe. Insects are not in

greater plenty than birds. The sea makes abundant recompense for this

scarcity of animals upon the land. Every creek swarms with fish, which

are not only wholesome, but equally delicious with those in our part

of the world. The Endeavour seldom anchored in any station, or with a

light gale passed any place, that did not afford enough, with hook and

line, to serve the whole ship's company. If the seine were made use of

it seldom failed of producing a still more ample supply. The highest

luxury of this kind, with which the English were gratified was the

lobster, or sea cray-fish. Among the vegetable productions of the

country, the trees claim a principal place; there being forests of

vast extent full of the straightest, the cleanest, and the largest

timber Mr. Cook and his friends had ever seen. Mr. Banks and Dr.

Solander were gratified by the novelty, if not by the variety of the

plants. Out of about four hundred species, there were not many which

had hitherto been described by botanists. There is one plant that

serves the natives instead of hemp and flax, and which excels all that

are applied to the same purposes in other countries.

If the settling of New Zealand should ever be deemed an object

deserving the attention of Great Britain, our commander thought that

the best place for establishing a colony would either be on the banks

of the Thames, or in the territory adjoining to the Bay of Islands.

Each of these places possess the advantage of an excellent harbour. By

means of the river, settlements might be extended, and a communication

established with the inland parts of the country. Vessels might

likewise be built of the fine timber which is every where to be met

with, at very little trouble and expense.

But I am in danger of forgetting myself, and of running into a detail

which may be thought rather to exceed the intentions of the present

narrative. It is difficult to restrain the pen, when such a variety of

curious and entertaining matter lies before it; and I must entreat the

indulgence of my readers while I mention two or three further

particulars. One circumstance peculiarly worthy of notice, is the

perfect and uninterrupted health of the inhabitants of New Zealand. In

all the visits made to their towns, where old and young, men and

women, crowded about our voyagers, they never observed a single person

who appeared to have any bodily complaint; nor among the numbers that

were seen naked, was once perceived the slightest eruption upon the

skin, or the least mark which indicated that such an eruption had,

formerly existed. Another proof of the health of these people is the

facility with which the wounds they at any time receive are healed. In

the man who had been shot with a musket ball through the fleshy part

of his arm, the wound seemed to be so well digested, and in so fair a

way of being perfectly healed, that if Mr. Cook had not known that no

application had been made to it, he declared that he certainly should

have inquired, with a very interested curiosity, after the vulnerary

herbs and surgical art of the country. An additional evidence of human

nature's being untainted with disease in New Zealand, is the great

number of old men with whom it abounds. Many of them, by the loss of

their hair and teeth, appeared to be very ancient and yet none of them

were decrepid. Although they were not equal to the young in muscular

strength, they did not come in the least behind them with regard to

cheerfulness and vivacity. Water, as far as our navigators could

discover, is the universal and only liquor of the New Zealanders. It

is greatly to be wished, that their happiness in this respect may

never be destroyed by such a connexion with the European nations, as

shall introduce that fondness for spirituous liquors, which hath been

so fatal to the Indians of North America.

From the observations which Lieutenant Cook and his friends made on

the people of New Zealand, and from the similitude which was discerned

between them and the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, a strong

proof arose, that both of them had one common origin; and this proof

was rendered indubitable by the conformity of their language. When

Tupia addressed himself to the natives of Eaheinomauwe and Poenammoo,

he was perfectly understood. Indeed it did not appear that the

language of Otaheite differed more from that of New Zealand, than the

language of the two islands into which it is divided, did from each

other.

Hitherto the navigation of Lieutenant Cook had been unfavourable to

the notion of a southern continent; having swept away at least

three-fourths of the positions upon which that notion had been

founded. The track of the Endeavour had demonstrated, that the land

seen by Tasman, Juan Fernandes, Hermite, the commander of a Dutch

squadron, Quiros, and Roggewein, was not, as they had supposed, part

of such a continent. It had also totally destroyed the theoretical

arguments in favour of a southern continent, which had been drawn from

the necessity of it to preserve an equilibrium between the two

hemispheres. As, however, Mr. Cook's discoveries, so far as he had

already proceeded, extended only to the northward of forty degrees,

south latitude, he could not therefore give an opinion concerning what

land might lie farther to the southward. This was a matter, therefore,

which he earnestly wished to be examined; and to him at length was

reserved the honour, as we shall hereafter see, of putting a final end

to the question.

On Saturday the 31st of March, our commander sailed from Cape Farewell

in New Zealand, and pursued his voyage to the westward. New Holland,

or as it is now called, New South Wales, came in sight on the 19th of

April; and on the 28th of that month the ship anchored in Botany Bay.

On the preceding day, in consequence of its falling calm when the

vessel was not more than a mile and a half from the shore and within

some breakers, our navigators had been in a very disagreeable

situation; but happily a light breeze had sprung from the land, and

carried them out of danger.

In the afternoon the boats were manned; and Lieutenant Cook and his

friends, having Tupia of their party, set out from the Endeavour. They

intended to land where they had seen some Indians, and began to hope,

that as these Indians had paid no regard to the ship when she came

into the bay, they would be as inattentive to the advances of the

English towards the shore. In this, however, the gentlemen were

disappointed: for as soon as they approached the rocks, two of the men

came down upon them to dispute their landing, and the rest ran away.

These champions, who were armed with lances about ten feet long,

called to our navigators in a very loud tone, and in a harsh dissonant

language, of which even Tupia did not understand a single word. At the

same time, they brandished their weapons, and seemed resolved to

defend their coast to the utmost, though they were but two to forty.

The lieutenant, who could not but admire their courage, and who was

unwilling that hostilities should commence with such inequality of

force on their side, ordered his boat to lie upon her oars. He and the

other gentlemen then parlied with them by signs; and to obtain their

good-will, he threw them nails, beads, and several trifles besides,

with which they appeared to be well pleased. After this our commander

endeavoured to make them understand that he wanted water, and

attempted to convince them by all the methods in his power, that he

had no injurious designs against them. Being willing to interpret the

waving of their hands as an invitation to proceed, the boat put in to

the shore; but no sooner was this perceived, than it was opposed by

the two Indians, one of whom seemed to be a youth about nineteen or

twenty years old, and the other a man of middle age. The only measure

now left for Mr. Cook was to fire a musket between them which being

done, the youngest of them brought a bundle of lances on the rock, but

recollecting himself in an instant he snatched them up again in great

haste. A stone was then thrown at the English, upon which the

lieutenant ordered a musket to be fired with small shot. This struck

the eldest upon the legs, and he immediately ran to one of the houses,

which was at about a hundred yards distance. Mr. Cook, who now hoped

that the contest was over, instantly landed with his party; but they

had scarcely quitted the boat when the Indian returned, having only

left the rocks to fetch a shield or target for his defence. As soon as

he came up, he and his comrade threw each of them a lance in the midst

of our people, but happily without hurting a single person. At the

firing of a third musket, one of the two men darted another lance, and

then both of them ran away. After this the gentlemen repaired to the

huts, and threw into the house where the children were, some beads,

ribbons, pieces of cloth, and other presents. These they hoped would

procure them the good will of the inhabitants. When, however, the

lieutenant and his companions returned the next day, they had the

mortification of finding that the beads and ribbons, which they had

left the night before, had not been removed from their places, and

that not an Indian was to be seen.

Several of the natives of the country came in sight on the 30th, but

they could not be engaged to begin an intercourse with our people.

They approached within a certain distance of them, and, after shouting

several times, went back into the woods. Having done this once more,

Mr. Cook followed them himself, alone and unarmed, a considerable way

along the shore, but without prevailing upon them to stop.

On the 1st of May, he resolved to make an excursion into the country.

Accordingly, our commander, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and seven others,

all of them properly accoutred for the expedition, set out, and

repaired first to the huts near the watering-place, whither some of

the Indians continued every day to resort. Though the little presents

which had been left there before had not yet been taken away, our

gentlemen added others of still greater value, consisting of cloth,

beads, combs, and looking-glasses. After this they went up into the

country, the face of which is finely diversified by wood and lawn. The

soil they found to be either swamp or light sand.[6]

[Footnote 6: In a part of the country that was afterwards

examined, the soil was found to be much richer; being a deep black

mould, which the lieutenant thought very fit for the production of

grain of any kind.]

In cultivating the ground, there would be no obstruction from the

trees, which are tall, straight, and without underwood, and stand at a

sufficient distance from each other. Between the trees, the land is

abundantly covered with grass. Our voyagers saw many houses of the

inhabitants, but met with only one of the people, who ran away as soon

as he discovered the English. At every place where they went they left

presents, hoping that at length they might procure the confidence and

good will of the Indians. They perceived some traces of animals; and

the trees over their heads abounded with birds of various kinds, among

which were many of exquisite beauty. Loriquets and cockatoos, in

particular, were so numerous, that they flew in flocks of several

scores together.

While the lieutenant and his friends were upon this excursion, Mr.

Gore, who had been sent out in the morning to dredge for oysters,

having performed that service, dismissed his boat, and taking a

midshipman with him, set out to join the waterers by land. In his way,

he fell in with a body of two and twenty Indians, who followed him,

and were often at no greater distance than that of twenty yards. When

he perceived them so near, he stopped, and faced about, upon which

they likewise stopped; and when he went on again, they continued their

pursuit. But though they were all armed with lances, they did not

attack Mr. Gore; so that he and the midshipman got in safety to the

watering-place. When the natives came in sight of the main body of the

English, they halted at about the distance of a quarter of a mile, and

stood still. By this Mr. Monkhouse and two or three of the waterers

were encouraged to march up to them; but seeing the Indians keep their

ground, they were seized with a sudden fear which is not uncommon to

the rash and foolhardy, and made a hasty retreat. This step increased

the danger which it was intended to avoid. Four of the Indians

immediately ran forwards, and discharged their lances at the

fugitives, with such force that they went beyond them. Our people

recovering their spirits, stopped to collect the lances, upon which

the natives, in their turn, began to retire. At this time Mr. Cook

came up, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia; and being desirous

of convincing the Indians that they were neither afraid of them, nor

designed to do them any injury, they advanced towards them,

endeavouring, by signs of expostulation and entreaty, to engage them

to an intercourse but without effect.

From the boldness which the natives discovered on the first landing of

our voyagers, and the terror that afterward seized them at the sight

of the English, it appears that they were sufficiently intimidated by

our fire-arms. There was not indeed, the least reason to believe that

any of them had been much hurt by the small shot which had been fired

at them when they attacked our people on their coming out of the boat.

Nevertheless, they had probably seen from their lurking places, the

effects which the muskets had upon birds. Tupia, who was become a good

marksman, frequently strayed abroad to shoot parrots; and while he was

thus employed, he once met with nine Indians, who, as soon as they

perceived that he saw them, ran from him, in great alarm and

confusion.

While on the 3rd of May, Mr. Banks was gathering plants near the

watering-place, Lieutenant Cook went with Dr. Solander and Mr.

Monkhouse, to the head of the bay, for the purpose of examining that

part of the country, and of making further attempts to form some

connexions with the natives. In this excursion they acquired

additional knowledge concerning the nature of the soil, and its

capacities for cultivation, but had no success in their endeavours to

engage the inhabitants in coming to a friendly intercourse. Several

parties, that were sent into the country, on the next day, with the

same view, were equally unsuccessful. In the afternoon our commander

himself, with a number of attendants, made an excursion to the north

shore, which he found to be without wood, and to resemble in some

degree, our moors in England. The surface of the ground was, however,

covered with a thin brush of plants, rising to about the height of the

knee. Near the coast, the hills are low, but there are others behind

them, which gradually ascend to a considerable distance, and are

intersected with marshes and morasses. Among the articles of fish

which, at different times were caught, were large stingrays. One of

them, when his entrails were taken out, weighed three hundred and

thirty-six pounds.

It was upon account of the great quantity of plants which Mr. Banks

and Dr. Solander collected in this place, that Lieutenant Cook was

induced to give it the name of Botany Bay. It is situated in the

latitude of 34° south, and in the longitude of 208° 37' west; and

affords a capacious, safe, and convenient shelter for shipping. The

Endeavour anchored near the south shore, about a mile within the

entrance, for the convenience of sailing with a southerly wind, and

because the lieutenant thought it the best situation for watering. But

afterward he found a very fine stream on the north shore, where was a

sandy cove, in which a ship might lie almost land-locked, and procure

wood and water to the greatest abundance. Though wood is every where

plentiful our commander saw only two species of it that could be

considered as timber. Not only the inhabitants who were first

discovered, but all who afterward came in sight, were entirely naked.

Of their mode of life, our voyagers could know but little, as not the

least connexion could be formed with them; but it did not appear that

they were numerous, or that they lived in societies. They seemed, like

other animals, to be scattered about along the coast, and in the

woods. Not a single article was touched by them of all that were left

at their huts, or at the places which they frequented; so little sense

had they of those small conveniences and ornaments, which are

generally very alluring to the uncivilized tribes of the globe. During

Mr. Cook's stay at this place, he caused the English colours to be

displayed every day on shore, and took care that the ship's name, and

the date of the year, should be inscribed upon one of the trees near

the watering-place.

At day-break, on Sunday the 6th of May, our navigators sailed from

Botany Bay; and as they proceeded on their voyage, the lieutenant gave

the names that are indicated upon the map to the bays, capes, points,

and remarkable hills which successively appeared in sight. On the

14th, as the Endeavour advanced to the northward, being then in

latitude 30° 22' south, and longitude 206° 39' west, the land

gradually increased in height, so that it may be called a hilly

country. Between this latitude and Botany Bay, it exhibits a pleasing

variety of ridges, hills, valleys and plains, all clothed with wood,

of the same appearance with that which has been mentioned before. The

land near the shore is in general low and sandy, excepting the points,

which are rocky, and over many of which are high hills, that, at their

first rising out of the water, have the semblance of islands. On the

next day, the vessel being about a league from the shore, our voyagers

discovered smoke in many places, and having recourse to their glasses,

they saw about twenty of the natives, who had each of them a large

bundle upon his back. The bundles our people conjectured to be palm

leaves for covering the houses of the Indians, and continued to

observe them above an hour, during which they walked upon the beach,

and up a path that led over a hill of gentle ascent. It was

remarkable, that not one of them was seen to stop and look towards the

Endeavour. They marched along without the least apparent emotion

either of curiosity or surprise, though it was impossible that they

should not have discerned the ship, by some casual glance, as they

went along the shore, and though she must have been the most

stupendous and unaccountable object they had ever beheld.

While on the 17th, our navigators were in a bay, to which Lieutenant

Cook had given the name of Moreton's Bay, and at a place were the land

was not at that time visible, some on board, having observed that the

sea looked paler than usual, were of opinion that the bottom of the

bay opened into a river. The lieutenant was sensible that there was no

real ground for this supposition. As the Endeavour had here

thirty-four fathom water, and a fine sandy bottom, these circumstances

alone were sufficient to produce the change which had been noticed in

the colour of the sea. Nor was it by any means necessary, to suppose a

river, in order to account for the land at the bottom of the bay not

being visible. If the land there was as low as it had been experienced

to be in a hundred other parts of the coast, it would be impossible to

see it from the station of the ship. Our commander would, however,

have brought the matter to the test of experiments, if the wind had

been favourable to such a purpose. Should any future navigator be

disposed to determine the question, whether there is or is not a river

in this place, Mr. Cook has taken care to leave the best directions

for finding its situation.

On the 22nd, as our voyagers were pursuing their course from Harvey's

Bay, they discovered with their glasses that the land was covered with

palm-nut trees, which they had not seen from the time of their leaving

the islands within the tropic. They saw also two men walking along the

shore, who paid them as little attention, as they had met with on

former occasions. At eight o'clock in the evening of this day, the

ship came to an anchor in five fathom, with a fine sandy bottom. Early

in the morning of the next day, the lieutenant, accompanied by Mr.

Banks, Dr. Solander, the other gentlemen, Tupia, and a party of men,

went on shore in order to examine the country. The wind blew fresh,

and the weather was so cold, that being at a considerable distance

from land, they took their cloaks as a necessary equipment for the

voyage. When they landed, they found a channel leading into a large

lagoon. Both the channel and the lagoon were examined by our commander

with his usual accuracy. There is in the place a small river of fresh

water, and room for a few ships to lie in great security. Near the

lagoon grows the true mangrove, such as exists in the West India

islands, and the first of the kind that had been yet met with by our

navigators. Among the shoals and sand banks of the coast, they saw

many large birds, and some in particular of the same kind which they

had seen in Botany Bay. These they judged to be pelicans, but they

were so shy as never to come within reach of a musket. On the shore

was found a species of the bustard, one of which was shot that was

equal in size to a turkey, weighing seventeen pounds and a half. All

the gentlemen agreed that this was the best bird they had eaten since

they left England; and in honour of it they called the inlet Bustard

Bay. Upon the mud banks, and under the mangroves, were innumerable

oysters of various kinds, and among others the hammer oyster, with a

large proportion of small pearl oysters. If in deeper water there

should be equal plenty of such oysters at their full growth, Mr. Cook

was of opinion that a pearl fishery might be established here to very

great advantage.

The people who were left on board the ship asserted, that, while the

gentlemen were in the woods, about twenty of the natives came down to

the beach, abreast of the Endeavour, and, after having looked at her

for some time, went away. Not a single Indian was seen by the

gentlemen themselves, though they found various proofs, in smoke,

fires, and the fragments of recent meals, that the country was

inhabited. The place seemed to be much trodden, and yet not a house,

or the remains of a house, could be discerned. Hence the lieutenant

and his friends were disposed to believe, that the people were

destitute of dwellings, as well as of clothes; and that like the other

commoner of nature, they spent their nights in the open air. Tupia

himself was struck with their apparently unhappy condition; and

shaking his head, with an air of superiority and compassion, said that

they were taata enos, 'poor wretches.'

On the 25th, our voyagers, at the distance of one mile from the land,

were abreast of a point, which Mr. Cook found to lie directly under

the tropic of Capricorn; and for this reason he called it Cape

Capricorn. In the night of the next day, when the ship had anchored at

a place which was distant four leagues from Cape Capricorn, the tide

rose and fell near seven feet; and the flood set to the westward, and

the ebb to the eastward. This circumstance was just the reverse of

what had been experienced when the Endeavour was at anchor to the

eastward of Bustard Bay.

While our people were under sail, on the 26th, and were surrounded

with islands, which lay at different distance from the main land, they

suddenly fell into three fathom of water. Upon this the lieutenant

anchored, and sent away the master to sound a channel, which lay

between the northernmost island and the main. Though the channel

appeared to have a considerable breadth, our commander suspected it to

be shallow, and such was in fact the case. The master reported, at his

return, that he had only two fathom and a half in many places; and

where the vessel lay at anchor, she had only sixteen feet, which was

not two feet more than she drew. Mr. Banks who, while the master was

sounding the channel, tried to fish from the cabin window with hook

and line, was successful in catching two sort of crabs, both of them

such as our navigators had not seen before. One of them was adorned

with a most beautiful blue, in every respect equal to the ultramarine.

With this blue all his claws and joints are deeply tinged; while the

under part of him was white, and so exquisitely polished, that to

colour and brightness it bore an exact resemblance to the white of old

china. The other crab was also marked, though somewhat more sparingly,

with the ultramarine on his joints and his toes; and on his back were

three brown spots of a singular appearance.

Early the next morning, Lieutenant Cook, having found the passage

between the Islands, sailed to the northward, and, on the evening of

the succeeding day, anchored at about two miles distance from the

main. At this time a great number of islands, lying a long way without

the ship, were in sight. On the 29th, the lieutenant sent away the

master with two boats to sound the entrance of an inlet, which lay to

the west, and into which he intended to go with the vessel, that he

might wait a few days for the moon's increase, and have an opportunity

of examining the country. As the tide was observed to ebb and flow

considerably, when the Endeavour had anchored within the inlet, our

commander judged it to be a river, that might run pretty far up into

land. Thinking that this might afford a commodious situation for

laying the ship ashore, and cleaning her bottom, he landed with the

master, in search of a proper place for the purpose. He was

accompanied in the excursion by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; and they

found walking exceedingly troublesome, in consequence of the ground's

being covered with a kind of grass, the seeds of which were very sharp

and bearded. Whenever these seeds stuck into their clothes, which

happened at every step, they worked forward by means of the beard,

till they got at the flesh. Another disagreeable circumstance was,

that the gentlemen were incessantly tormented with the stings of a

cloud of musquitos. They soon met with several places where the ship

might conveniently be laid ashore; but were much disappointed in not

being able to find any fresh water. In proceeding up the country they

found gum trees, the gum upon which existed only to very small

quantities. Gum trees of a similar kind and as little productive, had

occurred in other parts of the coast of New South Wales. Upon the

branches of the trees were ants' nests, made of clay as big as a

bushel. The ants themselves, by which the nests were inhabited, were

small, and their bodies white. Upon another species of the gum trees,

was found a small black ant, which perforated all the twigs, and,

having worked out the pith, occupied the pipe in which it had been

contained. Notwithstanding this, the parts in which these insects, to

an amazing number, had formed a lodgment, bore leaves and flowers, and

appeared to be entirely in a flourishing state. Butterflies were found

in such multitudes, that the account of them seems almost to be

incredible. The air was so crowded with them, for the space of three

or four acres, that millions might be seen in every direction; and the

branches and twigs of the trees were at the same time covered with

others that were not upon the wing. A small fish a of singular kind

was likewise met with in this place. Its size was about that of a

minnow, and it had two very strong breast-fins. It was found in places

which were quite dry, and where it might be supposed that it had been

left by the tide; and yet it did not appear to have become languid

from that circumstance: for when it was approached, it leaped away as

nimbly as a frog. Indeed it did not seem to prefer water to land.

Though the curiosity of Mr. Cook and his friends was gratified by the

sight of these various objects, they were disappointed in the

attainment of their main purpose, the discovery of fresh water; and a

second excursion, which was made by them on the afternoon of the same

day, was equally unsuccessful. The failure of the lieutenant's hopes

determined him to make but a short stay in the place. Having, however,

observed from an eminence, that the inlet penetrated a considerable

way into the country, he formed a resolution of tracing it in the

morning. Accordingly, at sunrise, on Wednesday the 30th of May, he

went on shore, and took a view of the coast and the islands that lie

off it with their bearings. For this purpose he had with him an

azimuth compass; but he found, that the needle differed very

considerably in its position, even to thirty degrees; the variation

being in some places more, in others less. Once the needle varied from

itself no less than two points in the distance of fourteen feet. Mr.

Cook having taken up some of the loose stones which lay upon the

ground, applied them to the needle, but they produced no effect;

whence he concluded that in the hills there was iron ore, traces of

which he had remarked both here and in the neighbouring parts. After

he had made his observations upon the hill, he proceeded with Dr.

Solander up the inlet. He set out with the first of the flood, and had

advanced above eight leagues, long before it was high-water. The

breadth of the inlet, thus far, was from two to five miles, upon a

direction south-west by south; but here it opened every way, and

formed a large lake, which to the north-west communicated with the

sea. Our commander not only saw the sea in this direction, but found

the tide of flood coming strongly in from that point. He observed,

also, an arm of this lake extending to the eastward. Hence he thought

it not improbable, that it might communicate with the sea in the

bottom of the bay, which lies to the westward of the Cape, that on the

chart is designated by the name of Cape Townshend. On the south side

of the lake is a ridge of hills which the lieutenant was desirous of

climbing. As, however, it was high water, and the day was far spent;

and as the weather, in particular, was dark and rainy, he was afraid

of being bewildered among the shoals in the night, and therefore was

obliged to give up his inclination, and to make the best of his way to

the ship. Two people only were seen by him, who followed the boat

along the shore a good way at some distance; but he could not

prudently wait for them, as the tide ran strongly in his favour.

Several fires in one direction, and smoke in another, exhibited

farther proofs of the country's being in a certain degree inhabited.

While Mr. Cook, with Dr. Solander, was tracing the inlet, Mr. Banks

and a party with him engaged in a separate excursion, in which they

had not proceeded far within land, before their course was obstructed

by a swamp, covered with mangroves. This, however, they determined to

pass; and having done it with great difficulty, they came up to a

place where there had been four small fires, near to which lay some

shells and bones of fish, that had been roasted. Heaps of grass were

also found lying together, on which four or five people appeared to

have slept. Mr. Gore, in another place, observed the track of a large

animal. Some bustards were likewise seen, but not any other bird,

excepting a few beautiful loriquets, of the same kind with those which

had been noticed in Botany Bay. The country in general, in this part

of New South Wales, appeared sandy and barren, and destitute of the

accommodations which could fit it for being possessed by settled

inhabitants. From the ill success that attended the searching for

fresh water, Lieutenant Cook called the inlet in which the ship lay

Thirsty Sound. No refreshment of any other sort was here procured by

our voyagers.

Our commander, not having a single inducement to stay longer in this

place, weighed anchor in the morning of the 31st and put to sea. In

the prosecution of the voyage, when the Endeavour was close under Cape

Upstart, the variation of the needle, at sunset, on the 4th of June,

was 9° east, and at sunrise the next day, it was no more that 5° 35'.

Hence the lieutenant concluded, that it had been influenced by iron

ore, or by some other magnetical matter contained under the surface of

the earth. In the afternoon of the 7th our navigators saw upon one of

the islands what had the appearance of cocoa-nut trees; and as few

nuts would at this time have been very acceptable, Mr. Cook sent

Lieutenant Hicks ashore, to see if he could procure any refreshment.

He was accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; and in the evening

the gentlemen returned, with an account that what had been taken for

cocoa-nut trees were a small kind of cabbage-palm, and that, excepting

about fourteen or fifteen plants, nothing could be obtained which was

worth bringing away. On the 8th, when the Endeavour was in the midst

of a cluster of small islands, our voyagers discerned with their

glasses, upon one of the nearest of these islands, about thirty of the

natives, men, women, and children, all standing together, and looking

with great attention at the ship. This was the first instance of

curiosity that had been observed among the people of the country. The

present Indian spectators were entirely naked. Their hair was short,

and their complexion the same with that of such of the inhabitants as

had been seen before.

In navigating the coast of New South Wales, where the sea in all parts

conceals shoals, which suddenly project from the shore, and rocks,

that rise abruptly like a pyramid from the bottom, our commander had

hitherto conducted his vessel in safety, for an extent of two and

twenty degrees of latitude, being more than one thousand three hundred

miles. But, on the 10th of June, as he was pursuing his course from a

bay to which he had given the name of Trinity Bay, the Endeavour fell

into a situation, as critical and dangerous, as any that is recorded in

the history of navigation; a history which abounds with perilous

adventures, and almost miraculous escapes. Our voyagers were now near

the latitude assigned to the islands that were discovered by Quiros,

and which, without sufficient reason, some geographers have thought

proper to join to this land. The ship had the advantage of a fine

breeze, and a clear moonlight night; and in standing off from six till

near nine o'clock, she had deepened her water from fourteen to

twenty-one fathom. But while our navigators were at supper, it

suddenly shoaled, and they fell into twelve, ten, and eight fathom,

within the compass of a few minutes. Mr. Cook immediately ordered

every man to his station, and all was ready to put about and come to

an anchor, when deep water being met with again at the next cast of

the lead, it was concluded that the vessel had gone over the tail of

the shoals which had been seen at sun-set, and that the danger was now

over. The idea of security was confirmed by the water's continuing to

deepen to twenty and twenty-one fathom, so that the gentlemen left the

deck in great tranquillity, and went to bed. However, a little before

eleven, the water shoaled at once from twenty to seventeen fathom, and

before the lead could be cast again, the ship struck, and remained

immoveable, excepting so far as she was influenced by the heaving of

the surge, that beat her against the crags of the rock upon which she

lay. A few moments brought every person upon deck, with countenances

suited to the horrors of the situation. As our people knew, from the

breeze which they had in the evening, that they could not be very near

the shore, there was too much reason to conclude, that they were on a

rock of coral, which, on account of the sharpness of its points, and

the roughness of its surface, is more fatal than any other. On

examining the depth of water round the ship, it was speedily

discovered that the misfortune of our voyagers was equal to their

apprehensions. The vessel had been lifted over a ledge of the rock,

and lay in a hollow within it, in some places of which hollow there

were from three to four fathom, and in others not so many feet of

water. To complete the scene of distress, it appeared from the light

of the moon, that the sheathing boards from the bottom of the ship

were floating away all around her, and at last her false keel; so that

every moment was making way for the whole company's being swallowed up

by the rushing in of the sea. There was now no chance but to lighten

her, and the opportunity had unhappily been lost of doing it to the

best advantage; for, as the Endeavour had gone ashore just at high

water, and by this time it had considerably fallen, she would, when

lightened, be but in the same situation as at first. The only

alleviation of this circumstance was, that as the tide ebbed, the

vessel settled to the rocks, and was not beaten against them with so

much violence. Our people had, indeed, some hope from the next tide,

though it was doubtful whether the ship would hold together so long,

especially as the rock kept grating part of her bottom with such force

as to be heard in the fore store-room. No effort, however, was

remitted from despair of success. That no time might be lost, the

water was immediately started in the hold, and pumped up; six guns,

being all that were upon the deck, a quantity of iron and stone

ballast, casks, hoop-staves, oil jars, decayed stores, and a variety,

of things besides, were thrown overboard with the utmost expedition.

Every one exerted himself not only without murmuring and discontent,

but even with an alacrity which almost approached to cheerfulness. So

sensible, at the same time, were the men of the awfulness of their

situation, that not an oath was heard among them, the detestable habit

of profane swearing being instantly subdued by the dread of incurring

guilt when a speedy death was in view.

When Lieutenant Cook and all the people about him were thus employed,

the opening of the morning of the 11th of June presented them with a

fuller prospect of their danger. The land was seen by them at about

eight leagues distance, without any island in the intermediate space

upon which, if the ship had gong to pieces, they might have been set

ashore by the boats, and carried thence by different turns to the

main. Gradually, however, the wind died away, and, early in the

forenoon, it became a dead calm; a circumstance this, peculiarly happy

in the order of Divine Providence; for if it had blown hard, the

vessel must inevitably have been destroyed. High water being expected

at eleven in the morning, and every thing being made ready to heave

her off if she should float; to the inexpressible surprise and concern

of our navigators, so much did the day tide fall short of that of the

night, that though they had lightened the ship nearly fifty ton, she

did not float by a foot and a half. Hence it became necessary to

lighten her still more, and every thing was thrown overboard that

could possibly be spared. Hitherto the Endeavour had not admitted much

water; but as the tide fell, it rushed in so fast, that she could

scarcely be kept free, though two pumps were incessantly worked. There

were now no hopes but from the tide at midnight; to prepare for taking

the advantage of which the most vigorous efforts were exerted. About

five o'clock in the afternoon the tide began to rise, but, at the same

time, the leak increased to a most alarming degree. Two more pumps,

therefore, were manned, one of which unhappily would not work. Three

pumps, however, were kept going, and at nine o'clock the ship righted.

Nevertheless, the leak had gained so considerably upon her, that it

was imagined that she must go to the bottom, as soon as she ceased to

be supported by the rock. It was, indeed, a dreadful circumstance to

our commander and his people, that they were obliged to anticipate the

floating of the vessel, not as an earnest of their deliverance, but as

an event which probably would precipitate their destruction. They knew

that their boats were not capable of carrying the whole of them on

shore, and that when the dreadful crisis should arrive, all command

and subordination being at an end, a contest for preference might be

expected, which would increase even the horrors of shipwreck, and turn

their rage against each other. Some of them were sensible that if they

should escape to the main land, they were likely to suffer more upon

the whole, than those who would be left on board to perish in the

waves. The latter would only be exposed to instant death; whereas the

former, when they got on shore, would have no lasting or effectual

defence against the natives, in a part of the country where even nets

and fire-arms could scarcely furnish them with food. But supposing

that they should find the means of subsistence; how horrible must be

their state, to be condemned to languish out the remainder of their

lives in a desolate wilderness without the possession or hope of

domestic comfort; and to be cut off from all commerce with mankind,

excepting that of the naked savages, who prowl the desert, and who

perhaps are some of the most rude and uncivilized inhabitants of the

earth.