The dreadful moment which was to determine the fate of our voyagers

now drew on; and every one saw, in the countenances of his companions,

the picture of his own sensations. Not, however, giving way to

despair, the lieutenant ordered the capstan and windlass to be manned

with as many hands as could be spared from the pumps, and the ship

having floated about twenty minutes after ten o'clock, the grand

effort was made, and she was heaved into deep water. It was no small

consolation to find, that she did not now admit of more water than she

had done when upon the rock. By the gaining, indeed, of the leak upon

the pumps, three feet and nine inches of water were in the hold;

notwithstanding which, the men did not relinquish their labour. Thus

they held the water as it were at bay: but having endured excessive

fatigue of body, and agitation of mind, for more than twenty-four

hours, and all this being attended with little hope of final success,

they began, at length, to flag. None of them could work at the pump

above five or six minutes together, after which, being totally

exhausted they threw themselves down upon the deck, though a stream of

water, between three or four inches deep, was running over it from the

pumps. When those who succeeded them had worked their time, and in

their turn were exhausted, they threw themselves down in the same

manner and the others started up again, to renew their labour. While

thus they were employed in relieving each other, an accident was very

nearly putting an immediate end to all their efforts. The planking

which lines the ship's bottom is called the ceiling, between which and

the outside planking there is a space of about eighteen inches. From

this ceiling only, the man who had hitherto attended the well had

taken the depth of the water, and had given the measure accordingly.

But, upon his being relieved, the person who came in his room reckoned

the depth to the outside planking which had the appearance of the

leak's having gained upon the pumps eighteen inches in a few minutes.

The mistake, however, was soon detected; and the accident, which in

its commencement was very formidable to them, became, in fact, highly

advantageous. Such was the joy which every man felt at finding his

situation better than his fears had suggested, that it operated with

wonderful energy, and seemed to possess him with a strong persuasion

that scarcely any real danger remained. New confidence and new hope

inspired fresh vigour; and the efforts of the men were exerted with so

much alacrity and spirit, that before eight o'clock in the morning the

pumps had gained considerably upon the leak. All the conversation now

turned upon carrying the ship into some harbour, as a thing not to be

doubted; and as hands could be spared from the pumps, they were

employed in getting up the anchors. It being found impossible to save

the little bower anchor, it was cut away at a whole cable, and the

cable of the stream anchor was lost among the rocks; but in the

situation of our people, these were trifles which scarcely attracted

their notice. The fore topmast and fore yard were next erected, and

there being a breeze from the sea, the Endeavour, at eleven o'clock,

got once more under sail, and stood for the land.

Notwithstanding these favourable circumstances, our voyagers were

still very far from being in a state of safety. It was not possible

long to continue the labour by which the pumps had been made to gain

upon the leak; and as the exact place of it could not be discovered,

there was no hope of stopping it within. At this crisis, Mr.

Monkhouse, one of the midshipmen, came to Lieutenant Cook, and

proposed an expedient he had once seen used on board a merchant ship,

which had sprung a leak that admitted more than four feet water in an

hour, and which by this means had been safely brought from Virginia to

London. To Mr. Monkhouse, therefore, the care of the expedient, which

is called forthering the ship, was, with proper assistance, committed;

and his method of proceeding was as follows. He took a lower studding

sail, and having mixed together a large quantity of oakum and wool, he

stitched it down as lightly as possible, in handfuls upon the sail,

and spread over it the dung of the sheep of the vessel, and ether

filth. The sail being thus prepared, it was hauled under the ship's

bottom by ropes, which kept it extended. When it came under the leak,

the suction that carried in the water, carried in with it the oakum

and wool from the surface of the sail. In other parts the water was

not sufficiently agitated to wash off the oakum and the wool. The

success of the expedient was answerable to the warmest expectations;

for hereby the leak was so far reduced, that, instead of gaining upon

three pumps, it was easily kept under with one. Here was such a new

source of confidence and comfort, that our people could scarcely have

expressed more joy, if they had been already in port. It had lately

been the utmost object of their hope, to run the ship ashore in some

harbour, either of an island or the main, and to build a vessel out of

her materials, to carry them to the East Indies. Nothing, however, was

now thought of but to range along the coast in search of a convenient

place to repair the damage the Endeavour had sustained, and then to

prosecute the voyage upon the same plan as if no impediment had

happened. In justice and gratitude to the ship's company, and the

gentlemen on board, Mr. Cook has recorded, that although in the midst

of their distress all of them seemed to have a just sense of their

danger, no man gave way to passionate exclamations, or frantic

gestures. 'Every one appeared to have the perfect possession of his

mind, and every one exerted himself to the utmost, with a quiet and

patient perseverance, equally distant from the tumultuous violence of

terror, and the gloomy inactivity of despair.' Though the lieutenant

hath said nothing of himself, it is well known that his own composure,

fortitude, and activity, were equal to the greatness of the occasion.

To complete the history of this wonderful preservation, it is

necessary to bring forward a circumstance, which could not be

discovered till the ship was laid down to be repaired. It was then

found, that one of her holes, which was large enough to have sunk our

navigators, if they had had eight pumps instead of four, and had been

able to keep them incessantly going, was in a great measure filled up

by a fragment of the rock, upon which the Endeavour had struck. To

this singular event, therefore, it was owing, that the water did not

pour in with a violence, which must speedily have involved the

Endeavour and all her company in inevitable destruction.

Hitherto none of the names, by which our commander had distinguished

the several parts of the country seen by him, were memorials of

distress. But the anxiety and danger, which he and his people had now

experienced, induced him to call the point in sight, which lay to the

northward, Cape Tribulation.

The next object, after this event, was to look out for a harbour,

where the defects of the ship might be repaired, and the vessel put

into proper order for future navigation. On the 14th, a small harbour

was happily discovered, which was excellently adapted to the purpose.

It was, indeed, remarkable, that, during the whole course of the

voyage, our people had seen no place which, in their present

circumstances, could have afforded them the same relief. They could

not, however, immediately get into it; and in the midst of all their

joy for their unexpected deliverance, they had not forgotten that

there was nothing but a lock of wool between them and destruction.

At this time, the scurvy, with many formidable symptoms, began to make

its appearance among our navigators. Tupia, in particular, was so

grievously affected with the disease, that all the remedies prescribed

by the surgeon could not retard its progress. Mr. Green, the

astronomer, was also upon the decline. These and other circumstances

embittered the delay which prevented our commander and his companions

from getting on shore. In the morning of the 17th, though the wind was

still fresh, the lieutenant ventured to weigh, and to put in for the

harbour, the entrance into which was by a very narrow channel. In

making the attempt, the ship was twice run aground. At the first time

she went off without any trouble, but the second time, she stuck fast.

Nevertheless, by proper exertions, in conjunction with the rising of

the tide, she floated about one o'clock in the afternoon, and was soon

warped into the harbour. The succeeding day was employed in erecting

two tents, in landing the provisions and stores, and in making every

preparation for repairing the damages which the Endeavour had

sustained. In the meanwhile, Mr. Cook, who had ascended one of the

highest hills that overlooked the harbour was by no means entertained

with a comfortable prospect; the low land near the river being wholly

overrun with mangroves, among which the salt water flows at every

tide, and the high land appearing to be altogether stony and barren.

Mr. Banks also took a walk up the country, and met with the frames of

several old Indian houses, and places where the natives, though not

recently, had dressed shell fish. The boat, which had this day been

dispatched to haul the seine, with a view of procuring some fish for

the refreshment of the sick, returned without success. Tupia was more

fortunate. Having employed himself in angling, and lived entirely upon

what he caught, he recovered in a surprising degree. Mr. Green, to the

regret of his friends, exhibited no symptoms of returning health.

On the 19th, Mr. Banks crossed the river, to take a farther view of

the country; which he found to consist principally of sand hills. Some

Indian houses were seen by him, that appeared to have been very lately

inhabited; and in his walk be met with large flocks of pigeons and

crows. The pigeons were exceedingly beautiful. Of these he shot

several; but the crows, which were exactly like those in England, were

so shy, that they never came within the reach of his gun.

It was not till the 22nd, that the tide so far left the Endeavour, as

to give our people an opportunity of examining her leak. In the place

where it was found, the rocks had made their way through four planks,

and even into the timbers. Three more planks were greatly damaged, and

there was something very extraordinary in the appearance of the

breaches. Not a splinter was to be seen, but all was as smooth as if

the whole had been cut away by an instrument. It was a peculiarly

happy circumstance, that the timbers were here very close, since

otherwise the ship could not possibly have been saved. Now also it was

that the fragment of rock was discovered, which, by sticking in the

leak of the vessel had been such a providential instrument of her

preservation.

On the same day, some of the people who had been sent to shoot pigeons

for the sick, and who had discovered many Indian houses, and a fine

stream of fresh water reported at their return, that they had seen an

animal as large as a greyhound, of a slender make, of a mouse colour,

and extremely swift. As the lieutenant was walking, on the morning of

the 24th, at a little distance from the ship, he had an opportunity of

seeing an animal of the same kind. From the description he gave of it,

and from an imperfect view which occurred to Mr. Banks, the latter

gentleman was of opinion that its species was hitherto unknown.

The position of the vessel, while she was refitting for sea, was very

near depriving the world of that botanical knowledge, which Mr. Banks

had procured at the expense of so much labour, and such various

perils. For the greater security of the curious collection of plants

which he had made during the whole voyage, he had removed them into

the bread room. This room is in the after part of the ship, the head

of which, for the purpose of repairing her, was laid much higher than

the stern. No one having thought of the danger to which this

circumstance might expose the plants, they were found to be under

water. However, by the exercise of unremitting care and attention, the

larger part of them were restored to a state of preservation.

On the 29th of June, at two o'clock in the morning Mr. Cook, in

conjunction with Mr. Green, observed an emersion of Jupiter's first

satellite. The time here was 2h 18' 53", which gave the longitude of

the place at 214° 42' 30" west: its latitude is 15° 26' south. The

next morning the lieutenant sent some of the young gentlemen to take a

plan of the harbour, whilst he himself ascended a hill, that he might

gain a full prospect of the sea: and it was a prospect which presented

him with a lively view of the difficulties of his situation. To his

great concern he saw innumerable sand-banks and shoals, lying in every

direction of the coast. Some of them extended as far as he could

discern with his glass, and many of them did but just rise above

water. To the northward there was an appearance of a passage, and this

was the only direction to which our commander could hope to get clear,

in the prosecution of his voyage; for, as the wind blew constantly

from the south-east, to return by the southward would have been

extremely difficult, if not absolutely impossible. On this, and the

preceding day, our people had been very successful in hauling the

seine. The supply of fish was so great, that the lieutenant was now

able to distribute two pounds and a half to each man. A quantity of

greens having likewise been gathered, he ordered them to be boiled

with peas. Hence an excellent mess was produced, which, in conjunction

with the fish, afforded an unspeakable refreshment to the whole of the

ship's company.

Early in the morning of the 2d of July, Lieutenant Cook sent the

master out of the harbour, in the pinnace, to sound about the shoals,

and to search for a channel to the northward. A second attempt, which

was made this day, to heave off the ship, was as unsuccessful as a

former one had been. The next day the master returned, and reported

that he had found a passage out to sea, between the shoals. On one of

these shoals, which consisted of coral rocks, many of which were dry

at low water, he had landed, and found there cockles, of so enormous a

size, that a single cockle was more than two men could eat. At the

same place he met with a great variety of other shell fish, and

brought back with him a plentiful supply for the use of his fellow

voyagers. At high water, this day, another effort was made to float

the ship, which happily succeeded; but it being found, that she had

sprung a plank between decks, it became necessary to lay her ashore a

second time. The lieutenant, being anxious to attain a perfect

knowledge of the state of the vessel, got one of the carpenters crew,

a man in whom he could confide, to dive on the fifth to her bottom,

that he might examine the place where the sheathing had been rubbed

off. His report, which was, that three streaks of the sheathing, about

eight feet long, were wanting, and that the main plank had been a

little rubbed, was perfectly agreeable to the account that had been

given before by the master and others, who had made the same

examination; and our commander had the consolation of finding, that,

in the opinion of the carpenter, this matter would be of little

consequence. The other damage, therefore, being repaired, the ship was

again floated at high water, and all hands were employed in taking the

stores on board, and in putting her into a condition for proceeding on

her voyage. To the harbour in which she was refitted for the sea, Mr.

Cook gave the name of the Endeavour River.

On the morning of the 6th, Mr. Banks accompanied by Lieutenant Gore,

and three men, set out in a small boat up the river, with a view of

spending a few days in examining the country. In this expedition

nothing escaped his notice, which related either to the natural

history or the inhabitants of the places he visited. Though he met

with undoubted proofs, that several of the natives were at no great

distance, none of them came within sight. Having found, upon the

whole, that the country did not promise much advantage from a farther

search, he and his party re-embarked in their boat, and returned, on

the 8th, to the ship. During their excursion, they had slept upon the

ground in perfect security, and without once reflecting upon the

danger they would have incurred, if, in that situation, they had been

discovered by the Indians.

Lieutenant cook had not been satisfied with the account which the

master had given of his having traced a passage between the shoals,

into the sea. He sent him out, therefore, a second time, upon the same

business; and, on his return, he made a different report. Having been

seven leagues out at sea, the master was now of opinion, that there

was no such passage as he had before imagined. His expedition,

however, though in this respect unsuccessful, was not wholly without

its advantage. On the very rock where he had seen the large cockles,

he met with a great number of turtle; and though he had no better an

instrument than a boat hook, three of them were caught, which together

weighed seven hundred and ninety-one pounds. An attempt, which, by

order of the lieutenant, was made the next morning to obtain some more

turtle, failed, through the misconduct of the same officer, who had

been so fortunate on the preceding day.

Hitherto the natives of this part of the country had eagerly avoided

holding any intercourse with our people: but at length their minds,

through the good management of Mr. Cook, became more favourably

disposed. Four of them having appeared, on the 10th, in a small canoe,

and seeming to be busily employed in striking fish, some of the ships

company were for going over to them in a boat. This, however, the

lieutenant would not permit, repeated experience having convinced him

that it was more likely to prevent than to procure an interview. He

determined to pursue a contrary method, and to try what could be done

by letting them alone, and not appearing to make them, in the least

degree, the objects of his notice. So successful was this plan, that

after some preparatory intercourse, they came alongside the ship,

without expressing any fear or distrust. The conference was carried

on, by signs, with the utmost cordiality till dinner time, when, being

invited by our people to go with them and partake of their provision,

they declined it, and went away in their canoe. One of these Indians

was somewhat above the middle age; the three others were young. Their

statue was of the common size, but their limbs were remarkably small.

The colour of their skin was a dark chocolate. Their hair was black,

but not woolly; and their features were far from being disagreeable.

They had lively eyes, and their teeth were even and white. The tones

of their voices were soft and musical, and there was a flexibility in

their organs of speech, which enabled them to repeat with great

facility many of the words pronounced by the English.

On the next morning, our voyagers had another visit from four of the

natives. Three of them were the same who had appeared the day before,

but the fourth was a stranger, to whom his companions gave the name of

Yaparico. He was distinguished by a very peculiar ornament. This was

the bone of a bird nearly as thick as a man's finger, and five or six

inches long, which he had thrust into a hole, made in the gristle that

divides the nostrils. An instance of the like kind, and only one, had

been seen in New Zealand. It was found, however, that among all these

people the same part of the nose was perforated; that they had holes

in their ears; and that they had bracelets, made of plaited hair, upon

the upper part of their arms. Thus the love of ornament takes place

among them though they are absolutely destitute of apparel.

Three Indians, on the 12th, ventured down to Tupia's tent, and were so

well pleased with their reception, that one of them went with his

canoe to fetch two others, who had never been seen by the English. On

his return, he introduced the strangers by name, a ceremony which was

never omitted upon such occasions. From a father acquaintance with the

natives, it was found, that the colour of their skins was not so dark

as had at first been apprehended, and that all of them were remarkably

clean-limbed, and extremely active and nimble. Their language appeared

to be more harsh than that of the islanders to the South Sea.

On the 14th, Mr. Gore had the good fortune to kill one of the animals

before mentioned, and which had been the subject of much speculation.

It is called by the natives Kanguroo; and when dressed proved most

excellent meat. Indeed, our navigators might now be said to fare

sumptuously every day; for they had turtle in great plenty, and it was

agreed that these were far superior to any which our people had ever

tasted in England. This the gentlemen justly imputed to their being

eaten fresh from the sea, before their natural fat had been wasted, or

their juices changed, by the situation and diet they are exposed to

when kept in tubs. Most of the turtle here caught were of the kind

called green turtle, and their weight was from two to three hundred

pounds.

In the morning of the 16th, while the men were engaged in their usual

employment of getting the ship ready for the sea, our commander

climbed one of the heights on the north side of the river, and

obtained from it an extensive view of the inland country, which he

found agreeably diversified by hills, valleys, and large plains, that

in many places were richly covered with wood. This evening, the

lieutenant and Mr. Green observed an emersion of the first satellite

of Jupiter, which gave 214° 53' 45" of longitude. The observation

taken on the 29th of June had given 214° 48' 30"; and the mean was

214° 48' 7-1/2", being the longitude of the place west of Greenwich.

On the 17th, Mr. Cook sent the master and one of the mates in the

pinnace, to search for a channel northward; after which, accompanied

by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, he went into the woods on the other

side of the water. In this excursion, the gentlemen had a farther

opportunity of improving that acquaintance with the Indians, who by

degrees became so familiar, that several of them the next day ventured

on board the ship. There the lieutenant left them, apparently much

entertained, that he might go with Mr. Banks to take a farther survey

of the country, and especially to indulge an anxious curiosity they

had of looking round about them upon the sea; of which they earnestly

wished, but scarcely dared to hope, that they might obtain a

favourable and encouraging prospect. When, after having walked along

the shore seven or eight miles to the northward, they ascended a very

high hill, the view which presented itself to them inspired nothing

but melancholy apprehensions. In every direction they saw rocks and

shoals without number; and there appeared to be no passage out to sea,

but through the winding channels between them, the navigation of which

could not be accomplished without the utmost degree of difficulty and

danger. The spirits of the two gentlemen were not raised by this

excursion.

On the 19th, our voyagers were visited by ten of the natives: and six

or seven more were seen at a distance, chiefly women, who were as

naked as the male inhabitants of the country. There being at that time

a number of turtles on the deck of the ship, the Indians who came on

board were determined to get one of them; and expressed great

disappointment and anger, when our people refused to comply with their

wishes. Several attempts were made by them to secure what they wanted

by force; but all their efforts proving unsuccessful, they suddenly

leaped into their canoe in a transport of rage, and paddled towards

the shore. The lieutenant, with Mr. Banks, and five or six of the

ship's crew, immediately went into the boat, and got ashore, where

many of the English were engaged in various employments. As soon as

the natives reached the land, they seized their arms, which had been

laid up in a tree, and having snatched a brand from under a

pitch-kettle that was boiling, made a circuit to the windward of the

few things our people had on shore, and with surprising quickness and

dexterity set on fire to the grass in that way. The grass, which was

as dry as stubble, and five or six feet high, burned with surprising

fury; and a tent of Mr. Banks's would have been destroyed if that

gentleman had not immediately got some of the men to save it, by

hauling it down upon the beach. Every part of the smith's forge that

would burn was consumed. This transaction was followed by another of

the same nature. In spite of threats and entreaties, the Indians went

to a different place, where several of the Endeavour's crew were

washing, and where the seine, the other nets, and a large quantity of

linen were laid out to dry, and again set fire to the grass. The

audacity of this fresh attack rendered it necessary that a musket,

loaded with small shot, should be discharged at one of them; who being

wounded at the distance of about forty yards they all betook

themselves to flight. In the last instance the fire was extinguished

before it had made any considerable progress; but where it had first

began, it spread far into the woods. The natives being still in sight,

Mr. Cook, to convince them that they had not yet gotten out of his

reach, fired a musket, charged with ball, abreast of them among the

mangroves, upon which they quickened their pace, and were soon out of

view. It was now expected that they would have given our navigators no

farther trouble; but in a little time their voices were heard in the

woods, and it was perceived that they came nearer and nearer. The

lieutenant, therefore, together with Mr. Banks, and three or four more

persons, set out to meet them; and the result of the interview, in

consequence of the prudent and lenient conduct of our commander and

his friends, was a complete reconciliation. Soon after the Indians

went away, the woods were seen to be on fire at the distance of about

two miles. This accident, if it had happened a little sooner, might

have produced dreadful effects; for the powder had been but a few days

on board, and it was not many hours that the store tents, with all the

valuable things contained in it had been removed. From the fury with

which the grass would burn in this hot climate, and the difficulty of

extinguishing the fire, our voyagers determined never to expose

themselves to the like danger, but to clear the ground around them, if

ever again they should be under the necessity of pitching their tents

in such a situation.

In the evening of this day, when every thing was gotten on board the

ship, and she was nearly ready for sailing, the master returned with

the disagreeable account that there was no passage for her to the

northward. The next morning, the lieutenant himself sounded and buoyed

the bar. At this time, all the hills for many miles round were on

fire, and the appearance they assumed at night was eminently striking

and splendid.

In an excursion which was made by Mr. Banks, on the 23rd, to gather

plants, he found the greatest part of the cloth that had been given to

the Indians lying in a heap together. This, as well as the trinkets

which had been bestowed upon them, they probably regarded as useless

lumber. Indeed, they seemed to set little value on any thing possessed

by our people, excepting their turtle, and that was a commodity which

could not be spared.

As Lieutenant Cook was prevented by blowing weather from attempting to

get out to sea, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander seized another opportunity,

on the 24th, of pursuing their botanical researches. Having traversed

the woods the greater part of the day, without success, as they were

returning through a deep valley they discovered lying upon the ground

several marking nuts, anacardiam orientale. Animated with the hope of

meeting the tree that bore them, a tree which perhaps no European

botanist had ever seen, they sought for it with great diligence and

labour, but to no purpose. While Mr. Banks was again gleaning the

country, on the 26th, to enlarge his treasure of natural history, he

had the good fortune to take an animal of the oppossum tribe, together

with two young ones. It was a female, and though not exactly of the

same species, much resembled the remarkable animal which Mons. de

Buffon hath described by the name of phalanger.

On the morning of the 29th, the weather becoming calm, and a light

breeze having sprung up by land, Lieutenant Cook sent a boat to see

what water was upon the bar, and all things were made ready for

putting to sea. But, on the return of the boat, the officer reported,

that there were only thirteen feet of water on the bar. As the ship

drew thirteen feet six inches, and the sea-breeze set in again in the

evening, all hope of sailing on that day was given up. The weather

being more moderate on the 31st, the lieutenant had thoughts of trying

to warp the vessel out of the harbour; but upon going out himself to

the boat, he found, that the wind still blew so fresh, that it would

not be proper to make the attempt. A disagreeable piece of

intelligence occured on the succeeding day. The carpenter, who had

examined the pumps, reported, that they were all of them in a state of

decay. One of them was so rotten, that, when hoisted up, it dropped to

pieces, and the rest were not in a much better condition. The chief

confidence, therefore, of our navigators was now in the soundness of

the ship; and it was a happy circumstance, that she did not admit more

than one inch of water in an hour.

Early on the 3rd of August, another unsuccessful attempt was made to

warp the vessel out of the harbour but in the morning of the next day

the efforts of our voyagers were more prosperous, and the Endeavour

got once more under sail with a light air from the land, which soon

died away, and was followed by sea-breezes from south-east by south.

With these breezes the ship stood off to sea, east by north, having

the pinnace ahead, which was ordered to keep sounding without

intermission. A little before noon the lieutenant anchored in fifteen

fathom water, with a sandy bottom, the reason of which was, that he

did not think it safe to run in among the shoals, till, by taking a

view of them from the mast-head at low water, he might be able to form

some judgment which way it would be proper for him to steer. This was

a matter of nice and arduous determination. As yet Mr. Cook was in

doubt, whether he should beat back to the southward, round all the

shoals, or seek a passage to the eastward or the northward: nor was it

possible to say, whether each of these courses might not be attended

with equal difficulty and danger.

The impartiality and humanity of Lieutenant Cook's conduct in the

distribution of provisions ought not to pass unnoticed. Whatever

turtle or other fish were caught, they were always equally divided

among the whole ship's crew, the meanest person on board having the

same share with the lieutenant himself. He hath justly observed, that

this is a rule which every commander will find it his interest to

follow, in a voyage of a similiar nature.

Great difficulties occured in the navigation from the Endeavour river.

On the 5th of August, the lieutenant had not kept his course long,

before shoals were discovered in every quarter, which obliged him, as

night approached, to come to an anchor. In the morning of the 6th

there was so strong a gale, that our voyagers were prevented from

weighing. When it was low water, Mr. Cook, with several of his

officers, kept a look-out at the mast head, to see if any passage

could be discovered between the shoals. Nothing, however, was in view,

excepting breakers, which extended from the south round by the east as

far as to the north-west, and reached out to sea, beyond the sight of

any of the gentlemen. It did not appear that these breakers were

caused by one continued shoal, but by several, which lay detached from

each other. On that which was farthest to the eastward, the sea broke

very high, so that the lieutenant was induced to think, that it was

the outermost shoal. He was now convinced, that there was no passage

to sea, but through the labyrinth formed by these shoals; and, at the

same time, he was wholly at a loss what course to steer, when the

weather should permit the vessel to sail. The master's opinion was,

that our navigators should beat back the way they came; but as the

wind blew strongly, and almost without intermission, from that

quarter, this would have been an endless labour: and yet, if a passage

could not be found to the northward, there was no other alternative.

Amidst these anxious deliberations, the gale increased, and continued,

with little remission, till the morning of the 10th, when the weather

becoming more moderate, our commander weighed, and stood in for the

land. He had now come to a final determination of seeking a passage

along the shore to the northward.

In pursuance of this resolution, the Endeavour proceeded in her

course, and at noon came between the farthermost headland that lay in

sight, and three islands which were four or five leagues to the north

of it, out at sea. Here our navigators thought they saw a clear

opening before them, and began to hope that they were once more out of

danger. Of this hope, however, they were soon deprived; on which

account, the lieutenant gave to the headland the name of Cape

Flattery. After he had steered some time along the shore, for what was

believed to be the open channel, the petty officer at the mast-head

cried aloud, that he saw land ahead, which extended quite round to the

three islands, and that between the ship and them there was a large

reef. Mr. Cook, upon this, ran up the mast-head himself, and plainly

discerned the reef, which was so far to the windward, that it could

not be weathered. As to the land which the petty officer had supposed

to be the main, our commander was of opinion, that it was only a

cluster of small islands. The master, and some others, who went up the

mast-head after the lieutenant, were entirely of a different opinion.

All of them were positive that the land in sight did not consist of

islands, but that it was a part of the main: and they rendered their

report still more alarming, by adding, that they saw breakers around

them on every side. In a situation so critical and doubtful, Mr. Cook

thought proper to come to an anchor, under a high point which he

immediately ascended, that he might have a farther view of the sea and

the country. The prospect he had from this place, which he called

Point Look-out, clearly confirmed him in his former opinion; the

justness of which displayed one of the numerous instances, wherein it

was manifest, how much he exceeded the people about him in sagacity of

his judgment concerning matters of navigation.

The lieutenant, being anxious to discover more distinctly the

situation of the shoals, and the channel between them, determined to

visit the northernmost and largest of the three islands before

mentioned; which, from its height and its lying five leagues out to

sea, was peculiarly adapted to his purpose. Accordingly, in company

with Mr. Banks, whose fortitude and curiosity stimulated him to take a

share in every undertaking, he set out in the pinnace, on the morning

of the 11th, upon this expedition. He sent, at the same time, the

master in the yawl, to sound between the low islands and the mainland.

About one o'clock, the gentlemen reached the place of their

destination, and immediately, with a mixture of hope and fear,

proportioned to the importance of the business, and the uncertainty of

the event, ascended the highest hill they could find. When the

lieutenant took a survey of the prospect around him, he discovered, on

the outside of the islands, and at the distance of two or three

leagues from them, a reef of rocks, upon which the sea broke in a

dreadful surf, and which extended farther than his sight could reach.

Hence, however, he collected, that there was no shoals beyond them;

and, as he perceived several breaks or openings in the reef, and deep

water between that and the islands, he entertained hopes of getting

without the rocks. But though he saw reason to indulge, in some

degree, this expectation, the haziness of the weather prevented him

from obtaining that satisfactory intelligence which he ardently

desired. He determined, therefore, by staying all night upon the

island, to try whether the next day would not afford him a more

distinct and comprehensive prospect. Accordingly, the gentlemen took

up their lodging under the shelter of a bush, which grew upon the

beach. Not many hours were devoted by them to sleep; for, at three in

the morning, Mr. Cook mounted the hill a second time, but had the

mortification of finding the weather much more hazy than it had been

on the preceding day. He had early sent the pinnace, with one of the

mates, to sound between the island and the reefs, and to examine what

appeared to be a channel through them. The mate, in consequence of its

blowing hard, did not dare to venture into the channel, which he

reported to be very narrow. Nevertheless, our commander, who judged,

from the description of the place, that it had been seen to

disadvantage, was not discouraged by this account.

While the lieutenant was engaged in his survey, Mr. Banks, always

attentive to the great object of natural history, collected some

plants which he had never met with before. No animals were perceived

upon the place, excepting lizards, for which reason the gentlemen gave

it the name of Lizard Island. In their return to the ship, they landed

on a low sandy island that had trees upon it, and which abounded with

an incredible number of birds, principally sea-fowl. Here they found

the nest of an eagle, and the nest of some other bird, of what species

they could not distinguish; but it must certainly be one of the

largest kinds that exist. This was apparent from the enormous size of

the nest, which was built with sticks upon the ground, and was no less

than six and twenty feet in circumference, and two feet eight inches

in height. The spot which the gentlemen were now upon they called

Eagle Island.

When Lieutenant Cook got on board he entered into a very serious

deliberation concerning the course he should pursue. After considering

what he had seen himself and the master's report, he was of opinion,

that by keeping in with the main land, he should run the risk of being

locked in by the great reef, and of being compelled at last to return

back in search of another passage. By the delay that would hence be

occasioned, our navigators would almost certainly be prevented from

getting in time to the East Indies, which was a matter of the utmost

importance, and indeed of absolute necessity; for they had now not

much more than three months' provision on board, at short allowance.

The judgment the lieutenant had formed together with the facts and

appearances on which it was grounded, he stated to his officers, by

whom it was unanimously agreed, that the best thing they could do

would be to quit the coast entirely, till they could approach it again

with less danger.

In pursuance of this resolution, the Endeavour, early in the morning

of the 13th, got under sail, and successfully passed through one of

the channels or openings in the outer reef, which Mr. Cook had seen

from the island. When the ship had gotten without the breakers, there

was no ground within one hundred and fifty fathom, and our people

found a large sea rolling in upon them from the south-east. This was a

certain sign that neither land nor shoals were near them in that

direction.

So happy a change in the situation of our voyagers was sensibly felt

in every breast, and was visible in every countenance. They had been

little less than three months in a state that perpetually threatened

them with destruction. Frequently had they passed their nights at

anchor within hearing of the surge, that broke over the shoals and

rocks; and they knew, that, if by any accident the anchors should not

hold against an almost continual tempest, they must in a few minutes

inevitably perish. They had sailed three hundred and sixty leagues,

without once, even for a moment, having a man out of the chains

heaving the lead. This was a circumstance which perhaps never had

happened to any other vessel. But now our navigators found themselves

in an open sea with deep water; and the joy they experienced was

proportioned to their late danger, and their present security.

Nevertheless, the very waves, which proved by their swell that our

people had no rocks or shoals to fear, convinced them, at the same

time, that they could not put a confidence in the ship equal to what

they had done before she struck. So far were the leaks widened by the

blows she received from the waves, that she admitted no less than nine

inches of water in an hour. If the company had not been lately in so

much more imminent danger, this fact, considering the state of the

pumps, and the navigation which was still in view, would have been a

matter of very serious concern.

The passage or channel, through which the Endeavour passed into the

open sea beyond the reef, lies in latitude 14° 32' south. It may

always be known by the three high islands within it, to which, on

account of the use they may be of in guiding the way of future

voyagers, our commander gave the appellation of the islands of

Direction.

It was not a long time that our navigators enjoyed the satisfaction of

being free from the alarm of danger. As they were pursuing their

course in the night of the 15th, they sounded frequently, but had no

bottom with one hundred and forty fathom, nor any ground with the same

length of line. Nevertheless, at four in the morning of the 16th, they

plainly heard the roaring of the surf, and at break of day saw it

foaming to a vast height, at not more than the distance of mile. The

waves, which rolled in upon the reef, carried the vessel towards it

with great rapidity; and, at the same time, our people could reach no

ground with an anchor, and had not a breath of wind for the sail. In a

situation so dreadful, there was no resource but in the boats; and

most unhappily, the pinnace was under repair. By the help, however, of

the long-boat and the yawl, which were sent ahead to tow, the ship's

head was got round to the northward, a circumstance which might delay,

if it could not prevent destruction. This was not effected till six

o'clock, and our voyagers were not then a hundred yards from the rock,

upon which the same billow had washed the side of the vessel broke to

a tremendous height, the very next time it rose. There was only,

therefore, a dreary valley between the English and destruction; a

valley no wider than the base of one wave, while the sea under them

was unfathomable. The carpenter, in the meanwhile, having hastily

patched up the pinnace, she was hoisted out, and sent ahead to tow in

aid of the other boats. But all these efforts would have been

ineffectual, if a light air of wind had not sprung up, just at the

crisis of our people's fate. It was so light an air, that at any other

time it would not have been observed: but it was sufficient to turn

the scale in favour of our navigators; and in conjunction with the

assistance which was afforded by the boats, it gave the ship a

perceptible motion obliquely from the reef. The hopes of the company

now revived: but in less than ten minutes a dead calm succeeded, and

the vessel was again driven towards the breakers, which were not at

the distance of two hundred yards. However, before the ground was lost

which had already been gained, the same light breeze returned, and

lasted ten minutes more. During this time a small opening about a

quarter of a mile distant, was discovered in the reef; upon which Mr.

Cook immediately sent one of the mates to examine it, who reported

that its breadth was not more than the length of the ship, but that

within it there was smooth water. This discovery presented the

prospect of a possibility of escape, by pushing the vessel through the

opening. Accordingly, the attempt was made, but it failed of success;

for when our people, by the joint assistance of their boats and the

breeze, had reached the opening, they found that it had become high

water; and, to their great surprise, they met the tide of ebb running

out like a mill-stream. In direct contrariety to their expectations,

some advantage was gained by this event. Though it was impossible to

go through the opening, the stream, which prevented the Endeavour from

doing it, carried her out about a quarter of a mile; and the boats

were so much assisted in towing her by the tide of ebb, that at noon

she had gained the distance of nearly two miles. However, there was

yet too much reason to despair of deliverance. For even if the breeze,

which had now died away, had revived, our navigators were still

embayed in the reef: and the tide of ebb being spent, the tide of

flood, notwithstanding their utmost efforts, drove the ship back again

into her former perilous situation. Happily, about this time, another

opening was perceived, nearly a mile to the westward. Our commander

immediately sent Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, to examine it; and

in the meanwhile the Endeavour struggled hard with the flood,

sometimes gaining, and sometimes losing ground. During this severe

service, every man did his duty with as much calmness and regularity

as if no danger had been near. At length Mr. Hicks returned with the

intelligence, that the opening, though narrow and hazardous, was

capable of being passed. The bare possibility of passing it was

encouragement sufficient to make the attempt; and indeed all danger

was less to be dreaded by our people, than that of continuing in their

present situation. A light breeze having fortunately sprung up, this,

in conjunction with the aid of the boats, and the very tide of flood

that would otherwise have been their destruction, enabled them to

enter the opening, through which they were hurried with amazing

rapidity. Such was the force of the torrent by which they were carried

along, that they were kept from driving against either side of the

channel, which in breadth was not more than a quarter of a mile. While

they were shooting this gulf, their soundings were remarkably

irregular, varying from thirty to seven fathom, and the ground at

bottom was foul.

As soon as our navigators had gotten within the reef, they came to an

anchor; and their joy was exceedingly great, at having regained a

situation, which, three days before, they had quitted with the utmost

pleasure and transport. Rocks and shoals, which are always dangerous

to the mariner, even when they are previously known and marked, are

peculiarly dangerous in seas which have never been navigated before;

and in this part of the globe they are more perilous than in any

other. Here they consist of reefs of coral rock, which rise like a

wall almost perpendicularly out of the deep, and are always overflowed

at high water. Here, too, the enormous waves of the vast southern

ocean, meeting with so abrupt a resistance, break, with inconceivable

violence, in a surf which cannot be produced by any rocks or storms in

the northern hemisphere. A crazy ship, shortness of provision, and a

want of every necessary, greatly increased the danger to our present

voyagers of navigating in this ocean. Nevertheless, such is the ardour

of the human mind, and so flattering is the distinction of a first

discoverer, that Lieutenant Cook and his companions cheerfully

encountered every peril, and submitted to every inconvenience. They

chose rather to incur the charge of imprudence and temerity, than to

leave a country unexplored which they had discovered, or to afford the

least colour for its being said, that they were deficient in

perseverance and fortitude. It scarcely needs to be added, that it was

the high and magnanimous spirit of our commander, in particular, which

inspired his people with so much resolution and vigour.

The lieutenant, having now gotten within the reef, determined,

whatever might be the consequence, to keep the main land on board, in

his future route to the northward. His reason for this determination

was, that, if he had gone without the reef again, he might have been

carried by it so far from the coast, as to prevent his being able to

ascertain whether this country did, or did not, join to New Guinea; a

question which he had fixed upon resolving, from the first moment that

he had come within sight of land. To the opening through which the

Endeavour had passed, our commander, with a proper sense of gratitude

to the Supreme Being, gave the name of Providential Channel. In the

morning of the 17th, the boats had been sent out, to see what

refreshments could be procured; and returned in the afternoon with two

hundred and forty pounds of the meat of shell fish, chiefly of

cockles. Some of the cockles were as much as two men could move, and

contained twenty pounds of good meat. Mr. Banks, who had gone out in

his little boat, accompanied by Dr. Solander, brought back a variety

of curious shells, and many species of corals.

In the prosecution of the voyage, our people, on the 19th, were

encompassed on every side with rocks and shoals: but, as they had

lately been exposed to much greater danger, and these objects were now

become familiar, they began to regard them comparatively with little

concern. On the 21st, there being two points in view, between which

our navigators could see no land, they conceived hopes of having at

last found a passage into the Indian Sea. Mr. Cook, however, that he

might be able to determine the matter with greater certainty, resolved

to land upon an island, which lies at the south-east point of the

passage. Accordingly, he went into the boat, with a party of men,

accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. As they were getting to

shore, some of the natives seemed inclined to oppose their landing,

but soon walked leisurely away. The gentlemen immediately climbed the

highest hill, from which no land could be seen between the south-west

and west-south-west; so that the lieutenant had not the least doubt of

finding a channel, through which he could pass to New Guinea. As he

was now about to quit the coast of New Holland, which he had traced

from latitude thirty-eight to this place, and which he was certain no

European had ever seen before, he once more hoisted English colours.

He had, indeed, already taken possession of several particular parts

of the country. But he now took possession of the whole eastern coast,

with all the bays, harbours, rivers, and islands situated upon it,

from latitude 38° to latitude 10°-1/2' south, in right of His Majesty

King George the Third, and by the name of New South Wales. The party

then fired three volleys of small arms, which were answered by the

same number from the ship. When the gentlemen had performed this

ceremony upon the island, which they called Possession Island, they

re-embarked in their boat, and, in consequence of a rapid ebb tide,

had a very difficult and tedious return to the vessel.

On the 23rd, the wind had come round the south-west; and though it was

but a gentle breeze, yet it was accompanied by a swell from the same

quarter, which, in conjunction with other circumstances, confirmed Mr.

Cook in his opinion, that he had arrived to the northern extremity of

New Holland, and that he had now an open sea to the westward. These

circumstances afforded him peculiar satisfaction, not only because the

dangers and fatigues of the voyage were drawing to a conclusion, but

because it could no longer be doubted whether New Holland and New

Guinea were two separate islands. The north-east entrance of the

strait lies in the latitude of 10° 39' south, and in the longitude of

218° 36' west; and the passage is formed by the main land, and by a

congeries of islands, the north-west, called by the lieutenant the

Prince of Wales's Islands, and which may probably extend as far as to

New Guinea. Their difference is very great, both in height and

circuit, and many seemed to be well covered with herbage and wood: nor

was there any doubt of their being inhabited. Our commander was

persuaded, that among these islands as good passages might be found,

as that through which the vessel came, and the access to which might

be less perilous. The determination of this matter he would not have

left to future navigators, if he had been less harassed by danger and

fatigue and had possessed a ship in better condition for the purpose.

To the channel through which he passed, he gave the name of Endeavour

Straits.

New Holland, or, as the eastern part of it was called by Lieutenant

Cook, New South Wales, is the largest country in the known world,

which does not bear the name of a continent. The length of coast along

which our people sailed, when reduced to a strait line, was no less

than twenty-seven degrees of latitude, amounting nearly to two

thousand miles. In fact the square surface of the island is much more

than equal to the whole of Europe. We may observe, with regard to the

natives, that their number bears no proportion to the extent of their

territory. So many as thirty of them had never been seen together but

once, and that was at Botany Bay. Even when they appeared determined

to engage the English, they could not muster above fourteen or fifteen

fighting men: and it was manifest, that their sheds and houses did not

lie so close together, as to be capable of accommodating a larger

party. Indeed our navigators saw only the sea-coast on the eastern

side; between which and the western shore there is an immense track of

land, that is wholly unexplored. But it is evident, from the totally

uncultivated state of the country which was seen by our people, that

this immense tract must either be altogether desolate, or at least

more thinly inhabited than the parts which were visited. Of traffic,

the natives had no idea, nor could any be communicated to them. The

things which were given them they received, but did not appear to

understand the signs of the English requiring a return. There was no

reason to believe that they eat animal food raw. As they have no

vessel in which water can be boiled, they either broil their meat upon

the coals, or bake in a hole by the help of hot stones, agreeably to

the custom of the inhabitants of the South Sea islands. Fire is

produced by them with great facility, and they spread it in a

surprising manner. For producing it, they take two pieces of soft

wood, one of which is a stick about eight or nine inches long, while

the other piece is flat. The stick they shape into an obtuse point at

one end, and pressing it upon the flat wood, turn it nimbly by holding

it between both their hands. In doing this, they often shift their

hands up, and then move them down, with a view of increasing the

pressure as much as possible. By this process they obtain fire in less

than two minutes, and from the smallest spark they carry it to any

height or extent with great speed and dexterity.

It was not possible, considering the limited intercourse which our

navigators had with the natives of New South Wales that much could be

learned with regard to their language. Nevertheless, as this is an

object of no small curiosity to the learned, and is indeed of peculiar

importance in searching into the origin of the various nations that

have been discovered, Mr. Cook and his friends took some pains to

collect such a specimen of it as might, in a certain degree, answer

the purpose. Our commander did not quit the country without making

such observations, relative to the currents and tides upon the coast,

as, while they increase the general knowledge of navigation, may be of

service to future voyagers. The irregularity of the tides is an object

worthy of notice.

From the coast of New South Wales, the lieutenant steered on the 23rd

of August, for the coast of New Guinea, and on the 25th, fell upon a

dangerous shoal. The ship was in six fathom, but scarcely two were

found, upon sounding round her, at the distance of half a cable's

length. This shoal was of such an extent, reaching from the east round

by the north and west to the south-west, that there was no method for

the vessel to get clear of it, but by her going back the way in which

she came. Here was another hair's breadth escape; for it was nearly

high water, and there ran a short cockling sea, which if the ship had

struck, must very soon have bulged her. So dangerous was her

situation, that, if her direction had been half a cable's length more,

either to the right or left, she must have struck before the signal

for the shoal could have been made.

It had been Lieutenant Cook's intention to steer north-west till he

had made the south coast of New Guinea, and it was his purpose to

touch upon it, if that could be found practicable. But in consequence

of the shoals he met with, he altered his course, in the hope of

finding a clearer channel, and deeper water. His hope was agreeably

verified; for by noon, on the 26th, the depth of water was gradually

increased to seventeen fathom. On the 28th, our voyagers found the sea

to be in many places covered with a brown scum, such as the sailors

usually called spawn. When the lieutenant first saw it he was alarmed,

fearing, that the ship was again among shoals; but the depth of water,

upon sounding, was discovered to be equal to what it was in other

places. The same appearance had been observed upon the coasts of

Brazil and New Holland, in which cases it was at no great distance

from the shore. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander examined the scum, but

could not determine what it was, any farther then as they saw reason

to suppose that it belonged to the vegetable kingdom. The sailors,

upon meeting with more of it, gave up the notion of its being spawn,

and finding a new name for it, called it sea sawdust.

At day break, on the 3rd of September, our navigators came in sight of

New Guinea, and stood in for it, with a fresh gale, till nine o'clock,

when they brought to, being in three fathom water and within about

three or four miles of land. Upon this the pinnace was hoisted, and

the lieutenant set off from the ship with the boat's crew, accompanied

by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Banks's servants, being in all

twelve persons, well armed. As soon as they came ashore, they

discovered the prints of human feet, which could not long have been

impressed upon the sand. Concluding, therefore, that the natives were

at no great distance, and there being a thick wood which reached to

within a hundred yards of the water, the gentlemen thought it

necessary to proceed with caution, lest their retreat to the boat

should be cut off. When they had walked some way along the skirts of

the wood, they came to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, at the fruit of

which they looked very wishfully; but not thinking it safe to climb,

they were obliged to leave it without tasting a single nut. After they

had advanced about a quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indians

rushed out of the wood with a hideous shout, and, as they ran towards

the English, the foremost threw something out of his hand, which flew

on one side of him, and burned exactly like gunpowder though without

making any report. The two other natives having at the same instant

discharged their arrows, the lieutenant and his party were under the

necessity of firing, first with small shot, and a second time with

ball. Upon this, the three Indians ran away with great agility. As Mr.

Cook had no disposition forcibly to invade this country, either to

gratify the appetites or the curiosity of his people, and was

convinced that nothing was to be done upon friendly terms, he and his

companions returned with all expedition towards their boat. When they

were aboard, they rowed abreast of the natives, who had come down to

the shore in aid of their countrymen and whose number now amounted to

between sixty and a hundred. Their appearance was much the same as

that of the New Hollanders; they nearly resembled them in stature, and

in having their hair short and cropped. Like them, also, they were

absolutely naked but the colour of their skin did not seem quite so

dark, which, however, might be owing to their being less dirty. While

the English gentlemen were viewing them, they were shouting defiance,

and letting off their fires by four or five at a time. Our people

could not imagine what these fires were, or what purposes they were

intended to answer. Those who discharged them had in their hands a

short piece of stick, which they swung sideways from them, and

immediately there issued fire and smoke, exactly resembling those of a

musket, and of as short a duration. The men on board the ship, who

observed this surprising phenomenon, were so far deceived by it, as to

believe that the Indians had fire-arms. To the persons in the boat, it

had the appearance of the firing of volleys without a report.

The place where this transaction happened lies in the latitude of 6°

15' south, and is about sixty-five leagues to the north-east of Port

Saint Augustine, or Walche Caep, and is near what is called in the

charts C. de la Colta de St. Bonaventura. In every part of the coast,

the land is covered with a vast luxuriance of wood and herbage. The

cocoa-nut, the bread-fruit, and the plantain-tree, flourish here in

the highest perfection; besides which, the country abounds with most

of the trees, shrubs, and plants, that are common to the South Sea

islands, New Zealand, and New Holland.

Soon after Mr. Cook and his party had returned to the ship, our

voyagers made sail to the westward, the lieutenant having resolved to

spend no more time upon this coast; a resolution which was greatly to

the satisfaction of a very considerable majority of his people. Some

of the officers indeed were particularly urgent that a number of men

might be sent ashore, to cut down cocoa-nut trees for the sake of

their fruit. This, however, our commander absolutely refused, as

equally unjust and cruel. It was morally certain, from the preceding

behaviour of the natives, that if their property had been invaded,

they would have made a vigorous effort to defend it; in which case,

the lives of many of them must have been sacrificed; and perhaps, too,

several of the English would have fallen in the contest. The necessity

of a quarrel with the Indians would have been regretted by the

lieutenant, even if he had been impelled to it by a want of the

necessaries of life; but to engage in it for the transient

gratification that would arise from obtaining two or three hundred

green cocoa-nuts, appeared in his view highly criminal. The same

calamity, at least with regard to the natives, would probably have

occurred, if he had sought for any other place on the coast, to the

northward and westward, where the ship might have lain so near the

shore, as to cover his people with the guns when they had landed.

Besides, there was cause to believe, that before such a place could

have been found, our navigators would have been carried so far to the

westward, as to be obliged to go to Batavia, on the north side of

Java. This, in Mr. Cook's opinion, would not have been so safe a

passage, as that to the south of Java, through the strait of Sunda,

Another reason for his making the best of his way to Batavia, was the

leakiness of the vessel, which rendered it doubtful, whether it would

not be necessary to heave her down when she arrived at that port. Our

commander's resolution was farther confirmed by the consideration,

that no discovery could be expected in seas which had already been

navigated, and where the coasts had been sufficiently described both

by Spanish and Dutch geographers, and especially by the latter. The

only merit claimed by the lieutenant, in this part of his voyage, was

the having established it as a fact beyond all controversy, that New

Holland and New Guinea are two distinct countries.

Without staying, therefore, on the coast of New Guinea, the Endeavour,

on the same day, directed her course to the westward, in pursuing

which, Mr. Cook had an opportunity of rectifying the errors of former

navigators. Very early in the morning of the 6th of September, our

voyagers passed a small island, which lay to the north-north-west; and

at day-break they discovered another low island, extending from that

quarter to north-north-east. Upon the last island, which appeared to

be of considerable extent, the lieutenant would have landed to examine

its produce, if the wind had not blown so fresh, as to render his

design impracticable. Unless these two islands belong to the Arrou

islands, they have no place in the charts; and if they do belong to

the Arrou islands, they are laid down at too great a distance from New

Guinea. Some other land which was seen this day ought, by its distance

from New Guinea, to have been part of the Arrou islands; but if any

dependance can be placed on former charts, it lies a degree farther to

the south.

On the 7th, when the ship was in latitude 9° 30' south, and longitude

229° 34' west, our people ought to have been in sight of the Weasel

Isles, which, in the charts, are laid down at the distance of twenty

or twenty-five leagues from the coast of New Holland. But as our

commander saw nothing of them, he concluded that they must have been

placed erroneously. Nor will this be deemed surprising, when it is

considered, that not only these islands, but the coast which bounds

this sea, have been explored at different times, and by different

persons, who had not all the requisites for keeping accurate journals

which are now possessed; and whose various discoveries have been

delineated upon charts by others, perhaps at the distance of more than

a century after such discoveries had been made.

In pursuing their course, our navigators passed the islands of Timor,

Timor-lavet, Rotte, and Seman. While they were near the two latter

islands, they observed, about ten o'clock at night, on the 16th of the

month, a phenomenon in the heavens, which in many particulars

resembled the Aurora Borealis, though in others it was very different.

It consisted of a dull reddish light, which reached about twenty

degrees above the horizon; and though its extent, at times, varied

much, it never comprehended less than eight or ten points of the

compass. Through, and out of the general appearance, there passed rays

of light of a brighter colour, which vanished, and were renewed,

nearly in the same manner as those of the Aurora Borealis, but

entirely without the tremulous or vibratory motion which is seen in

that phenomenon. The body of this light bore south-south-east from the

ship, and continued, without any diminution of its brightness, till

twelve o'clock, and probably a longer time, as the gentlemen were

prevented from observing it farther, by their retiring to sleep.

By the 16th, Lieutenant Cook had gotten clear of all the islands which

had then been laid down in the maps as situated between Timor and

Java, and did not expect to meet with any other in that quarter. But

the next morning an island was seen bearing west-south-west, and at

first he believed that he had made a new discovery. As soon as our

voyagers had come close in with the north side of it, they had the

pleasing prospect of houses and cocoa-nut trees, and of what still

more agreeably surprised them, numerous flocks of sheep. Many of the

people on board were at this time in a bad state of health, and no

small number of them had been dissatisfied with the lieutenant for not

having touched at Timor. He readily embraced, therefore, the

opportunity of landing at a place which appeared so well calculated to

supply the necessities of the company, and to remove both the sickness

and the discontent which had spread among them. This place proved to

be the island of Savu, where a settlement had lately been made by the

Dutch.

The great design of our commander was to obtain provisions, which,

after some difficulty, and some jealousy on the part of Mr. Lange, the

Dutch resident, were procured. These provisions were nine buffaloes,

six sheep, three hogs, thirty dozen of fowls, many dozens of eggs,

some cocoa-nuts, a few limes, a little garlic, and several hundred

gallons of palm syrup. In obtaining these refreshments at a reasonable

price, the English were not a little assisted by an old Indian, who

appeared to be a person of considerable authority under the king of

the country. The lieutenant and his friends were one day very

hospitably entertained by the king himself, though the royal etiquette

did not permit his majesty to partake of the banquet.

So little in general, had the island of Savu been known, that Mr. Cook

had never seen a map or chart in which it is clearly or accurately

laid down. The middle of it lies in about the latitude of 10° 35'

south, and longitude 237° 30' west; and from the ship it presented a

prospect, than which nothing can be more beautiful. This prospect,

from the verdure and culture of the country, from the hills, richly

clothed, which rise in a gentle and regular ascent, and from the

stateliness and beauty of the trees, is delightful to a degree that

can scarcely be conceived by the most lively imagination. With regard

to the productions and natives of the island, the account which our

navigators were enabled to give of them, and which is copious and

entertaining, was, in a great measure, derived from the information of

Mr. Lange.

An extraordinary relation is given of the morals of the people of this

island, and which if true, must fill every virtuous mind with

pleasure. Their characters and conduct are represented as

irreproachable, even upon the principles of Christianity. Though no

man is permitted to have more than one wife, an illicit commerce

between the sexes is scarcely known among them. Instances of theft are

very rare; and so far are they from revenging a supposed injury by

murder, that when any difference arises between them they immediately,

and implicitly refer it to the determination of their king. They will

not so much as make it the subject of private debate, lest they should

hence be provoked to resentment and ill will. Their delicacy and

cleanliness are suited to the purity of their morals. From the

specimen which is given of the language of Savu, it appears to have

some affinity with that of the South Sea islands. Many of the words

are exactly the same, and the terms of numbers are derived from the

same origin.

On the 21st of September, our navigators got under sail, and having

pursued their voyage till the 1st of October, on that day they came

within sight of the island of Java. During their course from Savu,

Lieutenant Cook allowed twenty minutes a-day for the westerly current,

which he concluded must run strong at this time, especially on the

coast of Java; and accordingly, he found that this allowance was

exactly equivalent to the effect of the current upon the ship. Such

was the sagacity of our commander's judgment in whatever related to

navigation.

On the 2nd, two Dutch ships being seen to lie off Anger Point, the

lieutenant sent Mr. Hicks on board one of them to inquire news

concerning England, from which our people had so long been absent. Mr.

Hicks brought back the agreeable intelligence, that the Swallow,

commanded by Captain Cateret, had been at Batavia two years before. In

the morning of the 5th, a prow came alongside of the Endeavour, with a

Dutch officer, who sent down to Mr. Cook a printed paper in English,

duplicates of which he had in other languages. This paper was

regularly signed, in the name of the governor and council of the

Indies, by their secretary, and contained nine questions, very ill

expressed, two of which only the lieutenant thought proper to answer.

These were what regarded the nation and name of his vessel, and

whither she was bound. On the 9th, our voyagers stood in for Batavia

road, where they found the Harcourt Indiaman from England, two English

private traders, and a number of Dutch ships. Immediately a boat came

on board the Endeavour, and the officer who commanded having inquired

who our people were, and whence they came, instantly returned with

such answers as were given him. In the mean time Mr. Cook sent a

lieutenant ashore, to acquaint the governor of his arrival, and to

make an apology for not having saluted; a ceremony he had judged

better to omit; as he could only make use of three guns, excepting the

swivels, which he was of opinion would not be heard.

It being universally agreed, that the ship could not safely proceed to

Europe without an examination of her bottom, our commander determined

to apply for leave to heave her down at Batavia; and for this purpose

he drew up a request in writing, which, after he had waited first upon

the governor-general, and then upon the council, was readily complied

with, and he was told, that he should have every thing he wanted.

In the evening of the 10th, there was a dreadful storm of thunder,

lightning, and rain, during which the mainmast of one of the Dutch

East Indiamen was split, and carried away by the deck; and the

maintop-mast and topgallant-mast were shivered to pieces. The stroke

was probably directed by an iron spindle, which was at the maintop

gallantmast head. As this ship lay very near the Endeavour, she could

scarcely have avoided sharing the same fate, had it not been for the

conducting chain, which fortunately had been just gotten up, and which

conveyed the lightning over the side of the vessel. But though she

escaped the lightning, the explosion shook her like an earthquake; and

the chain at the same time appeared like a line of fire. Mr. Cook has

embraced this occasion of earnestly recommending similar chains to

every ship; and hath expressed his hope that all who read his

narrative will be warned against having an iron spindle at the

mast-head.

The English gentlemen had taken up their lodging and boarding at an

hotel, or kind of inn, kept by the order of government. Here they met

with those impositions, in point of expense and treatment, which are

too common to admit of much surprise. It was not long, however, that

they submitted to ill usage. By a farther acquaintance with the manner

of dealing with their host, and by spirited remonstrances, they

procured a better furnished table. Mr. Banks, in a few days, hired a

small house for himself and his party; and as soon as he was settled

in his new habitation, sent for Tupia, who bad hitherto continued on

board on account of sickness. When he quitted the ship, and after he

came into the boat, he was exceedingly lifeless and dejected; but no

sooner did he enter the town, than he appeared to be inspired with

another soul. A scene so entirely new and extraordinary filled him

with amazement. The houses, carriages, streets, people, and a

multiplicity of other objects, rushing upon him at once, produced an

effect similar to what is ascribed to enchantment. His boy, Tayeto,

expressed his wonder and delight in a still more rapturous manner. He

danced along the streets in a kind of extacy, examining every object

with a restless and eager curiosity, which was excited and gratified

every moment. Tupia's attention was particularly excited by the

various dresses of the passing multitude; and when he was informed,

that at Batavia every one wore the dress of his own country, he

expressed his desire of appearing in the garb of Otabeite.

Accordingly, South Sea cloth being sent for from the ship, he equipped

himself with great expedition and dexterity.

Lieutenant Cook imagined that at Batavia he should find it easy to

take up what money he might want for repairing and refitting, the

Endeavour; but in this he was mistaken. No private person could be

found who had ability and inclination to furnish the sum which was

necessary. In this exigency, the lieutenant had recourse by a written

request, to the governor, from whom he obtained an order for being

supplied out of the Dutch company's treasury.

When our voyagers had been only nine days at Batavia, they began to

feel the fatal effects of the climate and situation. Tupia, after his

first flow of spirits had subsided, grew every day worse and worse;

and Tayeto was seized with an inflamation upon his lungs. Mr. Banks

and Dr. Solander were attacked by fevers, and in a little time almost

every person both on board and on shore, was sick. The distress of our

people was indeed very great and the prospect before them discouraging

in the highest degree. Tupia, being desirous of breathing a freer air

than among the numerous houses that obstructed it ashore, had a tent

erected for him on Cooper's island, to which he was accompanied by Mr.

Banks, who attended this poor Indian with the greatest humanity, till

he was rendered incapable of doing it, by the violent increase of his

own disorder. On the 5th of November. Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon of

the ship, a sensible, skilful man, whose loss was not a little

aggravated by the situation of the English, fell the first sacrifice

to this fatal country. Tayeto died on the 9th, and Tupia, who loved

him with the tenderness of a parent, sunk at once after the loss of

the boy, and survived him only a few days. The disorders of Mr. Banks

and Dr. Solander grew to such a height, that the physician declared

they had no chance of preserving their lives but by removing into the

country. Accordingly, a house was hired for them at the distance of

about two miles from the town; where, in consequence of enjoying a

purer air, and being better nursed by two Malayan women, whom they had

bought, they recovered by slow degrees. At length, Lieutenant Cook was

himself taken ill; and out of the whole ship's company, not more than

ten were able to do duty.

In the midst of these distresses, our commander was diligently and

vigorously attentive to the repair of his vessel. When her bottom came

to be examined, she was found to be in a worse condition than had been

apprehended. Her false keel and main keel were both of them greatly

injured; a large quantity of the sheathing was torn off; and among

several planks which were much damaged, two of them, and the half of a

third, were so worn for the length of six feet, that they were not

above the eighth part of an inch in thickness; and here the worms had

made way quite into the timbers. In this state the Endeavour had

sailed many hundred leagues, in a quarter of the globe where

navigation is dangerous in the highest degree. It was happy for our

voyagers, that they were ignorant of their perilous situation; for it

must have deeply affected them, to have known, that a considerable

part of the bottom of the vessel was thinner than the sole of a shoe,

and that all their lives depended upon so slight and fragile a barrier

between them and the unfathomable ocean.

The repair of the Endeavour was carried on very much to Mr. Cook's

satisfaction. In justice to the Dutch officers and workmen, he hath

declared, that in his opinion, there is not a marine yard in the

world, where a ship can be laid with more convenience, safety, and

dispatch, or repaired with greater diligence and skill. He was

particularly pleased with the manner of heaving down by two masts, and

gives it a decided preference to the method which had hitherto been

practised by the English. The lieutenant was not one of those on whom

the bigotry could be charged of adhering to old customs, in opposition

to the dictates of reason and experience.

By the 8th of December, the Endeavour was perfectly refitted. From

that time to the 24th, our people were employed in completing her

stock of water, provisions, and stores, in erecting some new pumps,

and in various other necessary operations. All this business would

have been effected much sooner, if it had not been retarded by the

general sickness of the men.

In the afternoon of the 24th, our commander took leave of the governor

of Batavia, and of several other gentlemen belonging to the place,

with whom he had formed connexions, and to whom he had been greatly

obliged for their civilities and assistance. In the meanwhile, an

accident intervened, which might have been attended with disagreable

effects. A seaman, who had run away from one of the Dutch ships in the

road, entered on board the Endeavour. Upon his being reclaimed, as a

subject of Holland, Mr. Cook, who was on shore, declared, that if the

man appeared to be a Dutchman, he should certainly be delivered up.

When however, the order was carried to Mr. Hicks, who commanded on

board, he refused to surrender the seaman, alleging, that he was a

subject of great Britain, born in Ireland. In this conduct, Mr. Hicks

acted in perfect conformity to the lieutenant's intention and

directions. The captain of the Dutch vessel, in the next place, by a

message from the governor-general, demanded the man as a subject of

Denmark. To this Mr. Cook replied, that there must be some mistake in

the general's message, since he would never demand of him a Danish

seaman, whose only crime was that of preferring the English to the

Dutch service. At the same time the lieutenant added, that to strew

the sincerity of his desire to avoid disputes, if the man was a Dane,

he should be delivered up as a courtesy; but that, if he appeared to

be an English subject, he should be kept at all events. Soon after, a

letter was brought from Mr. Hicks, containing indubitable proofs that

the seaman in question was a subject of his Britannic majesty. This

letter Mr. Cook sent to the governor, with an assurance to his

excellency, that he would not part with the man on any terms. A

conduct so firm and decisive produced the desired effect, no more

being heard of the affair.

In the evening of the 25th, our commander went on board, together with

Mr. Banks and the rest of the gentlemen who had resided constantly on

shore. The gentlemen, though considerably better, were far from being

perfectly recovered. As this time, the sick persons in the ship

amounted to forty, and the rest of the company were in a very feeble

condition. It was remarkable, that every individual had been ill

excepting the sailmaker, who was an old man between seventy and eighty

years of age, and who was drunk every day during the residence of our

people at Batavia. Three seamen and Mr. Green's servant died, besides

the surgeon, Tupia, and Tayeto. Tupia did not entirely fall a

sacrifice to the unwholesome, stagnant, and putrid air of the country.

As he had been accustomed from his birth, to subsist chiefly upon

vegetable food, and particularly on ripe fruit, he soon contracted the

disorders which are incident to a sea life, and would probably have

sunk under them before the voyage of the English could have been

completed, even if they had not been obliged to go to Batavia to refit

their vessel.

Our navigators did not stay at this place without gaining an extensive

acquaintance with the productions of the country, and the manners and

customs of the inhabitants. The information which was obtained on

these heads, will be found to constitute a very valuable addition to

what was heretofore known upon the subject.

On Thursday the 27th of December, the Endeavour stood out to sea; and

on the 5th of January, 1771, she came to an anchor, under the

south-east side of Prince's Island. The design of this was to obtain a

recruit of wood and water, and to procure some refreshments for the

sick, many of whom had become much worse than they were when they left

Batavia. As soon as the vessel was secured, the lieutenant, Mr. Banks,

and Dr. Solander went on shore, and were conducted by some Indians

they met with to a person who was represented to be the king of the

country. After exchanging a few compliments with his majesty, the

gentlemen proceeded to business, but could not immediately come to a

settlement with him in respect to the price of turtle. They were more

successful in their search of a watering-place, having found water

conveniently situated, and which they had reason to believe would

prove good. As they were going off, some of the natives sold them

three turtle, under a promise that the king should not be informed of

the transaction.

On the next day a traffic was established with the Indians, upon such

terms as were offered by the English; so that by night our people had

plenty of turtle. The three which had been purchased the evening

before were in the mean time dressed for the ship's company, who,

excepting on the preceding day, had not, for nearly the space of four

months, been once served with salt provisions. Mr. Banks, in the

evening, paid his respects to the king at his palace, which was

situated in the middle of a rice field. His majesty was busily

employed in dressing his own supper; but this did not prevent him from

receiving his visitant in a very gracious manner. During the following

days the commerce with the natives for provisions was continued; in

the course of which they brought down to the trading place, not only a

quantity of turtle, but fowls, fish, monkeys, small deer, and some

vegetables.

On the evening of the 11th, when Mr. Cook went on shore to see how

those of his people conducted their business, who were employed in

wooding and watering, he was informed that an axe had been stolen. As

it was a matter of consequence to prevent others from being encouraged

to commit thefts of the like kind, he resolved not to pass over the

offence, but to insist upon redress from the king. Accordingly, after

some altercation, his majesty promised that the axe should be restored

in the morning, and the promise was faithfully performed.

On the 15th, our commander weighed, and stood out for sea. Prince's

Island, where he lay about ten days, was formerly much frequented by

the India ships of many nations, and especially those of England, but

it had lately been forsaken, on account of the supposed badness of its

water. This supposition, however, arose from a want of duly examining

the brook by which the water is supplied. It is, indeed, brackish at

the lower part of the brook, but higher up it will be found excellent.

The lieutenant, therefore, was clearly of opinion, that Prince's

Island is a more eligible place for ships to touch at, than either at

North Island or New Bay; from neither of which places any considerable

quantity, of other refreshments can be procured.

As the Endeavour proceeded on her voyage to the Cape of Good Hope, the

seeds of disease, which had been received at Batavia, appeared with

the most threatening symptoms, and reduced our navigators to a very

melancholy situation. The ship was, in fact, nothing better than an

hospital, in which those who could go about were not sufficient for a

due attendance upon those who were sick. Lest the water which had been

taken in at Prince's island should have had any share in adding to the

disorder of the men, the lieutenant ordered it to be purified with

lime; and, as a farther remedy against infection, he directed all the

parts of the vessel between the decks to be washed with vinegar. The

malady had taken too deep root to be speedily eradicated. Mr. Banks

was reduced so low by it, that for some time there was no hope of his

life; and so fatal was the disease to many others, that almost every

night a dead body was committed to the sea. There were buried, in the

course of about six weeks, Mr. Sporing, a gentleman who was one of Mr.

Banks's assistants; Mr. Parkinson, his natural history painter, Mr.

Green, the astronomer; the boatswain, the carpenter, and his mate; Mr.

Monkhouse the midshipman, another midshipman, the old jolly sailmaker

and his assistant, the ship's cook, the corporal of the marines, two

of the carpenter's crew, and nine seamen. In all, the loss amounted to

three and twenty persons, besides the seven who died at Batavia. It is

probable that these calamitous events, which could not fail of making

a powerful impression on the mind of Lieutenant Cook, might give

occasion to his turning his thoughts more zealously to those methods

of preserving the health of seamen, which he afterwards pursued with

such remarkable success.

On Friday the 15th of March, the Endeavour arrived off the Cape of

Good Hope; and as soon as she was brought to an anchor, our commander

waited upon the governor, from whom he received assurances that he

should be furnished with every supply which the country could afford.

His first care was to provide a proper place for the sick, whose

number was not small; and a house was speedily found, where it was

agreed that they should be lodged and boarded at the rate of two

shillings a day for each person.

The run from Java Head to the Cape of Good Hope did not furnish many

subjects of remark, that could be of any great use to future voyagers.

Such observations, however, as occurred to him, the lieutenant has

been careful to record, not being willing to omit the least

circumstance that may contribute to the safety and facility of

navigation.

The lieutenant, having lain at the Cape to recover the sick, to

procure stores, and to refit his vessel, till the 14th of April, then

stood out of the bay, and proceeded on his voyage homeward. In the

morning of the 29th, he crossed his first meridian, having

circumnavigated the globe in the direction from east to west. The

consequence of which was, that he lost a day, an allowance for which

had been made at Batavia. On the 1st of May be arrived at St Helena,

where he staid till the 4th to refresh; during which time Mr. Banks

employed himself in making the complete circuit of the island, and in

visiting the places most worthy of observation.

The manner in which slaves are described as being treated in this

island, must be mentioned with indignation. According to our

commander's representation, while every kind of labour is performed by

them, they are not furnished either with horses or with any of the

various machines which art has invented to facilitate their task.

Carts might conveniently be used in some parts, and where the ground

is too steep for them, wheelbarrows might be employed to great

advantage; and yet there is not a wheelbarrow in the whole island.

Though every thing which is conveyed from place to place is done by

slaves alone, they have not the simple convenience of a porter's knot,

but carry their burden upon their heads. They appeared to be a

miserable race, worn out by the united operation of excessive labour

and ill usage; and Mr. Cook was sorry to observe, and to say, that

instances of wanton cruelty were much more frequent among his

countrymen at St. Helena, than among the Dutch, who are generally

reproached with want of humanity, both at Batavia and the Cape of Good

Hope. It is impossible for a feeling mind to avoid being concerned

that such an account should be given of the conduct of any who are

entitled to the name of Britons. The lieutenant's reproof, if just,

hath, it may be hoped, long before this reached the place, and

produced some good effect.[7] If slavery, that disgrace to religion,

to humanity, and, I will add, to sound policy, must still be

continued, every thing ought to be done which can tend to soften its

horrors.

[Footnote 7: Near the conclusion of Captain Cook's second voyage,

there is the following short note. 'In the account given of St.

Helena, in the narrative of my former voyage, I find some

mistakes. Its inhabitants are far from exercising a wanton cruelty

over their slaves; and they have had wheel carriages and porters'

knots for many years.' This note I insert with pleasure.

Nevertheless, I cannot think that the lieutenant could have given

so strong a representation of things, if, at the time in which it

was written, it had been wholly without foundation.]

When our commander departed from St. Helena, on the 4th, it was in

company with the Portland man-of-war, and twelve Indiamen. With this

fleet he continued to sail till the 10th, when, perceiving that the

Endeavour proceeded much more heavily than any of the other vessels,

and that she was not likely to get home so soon as the rest, he made a

signal to speak with the Portland. Upon this captain Elliot himself

came on board, and Mr. Cook delivered to him the common log-books of

his ship, and the journals of some of the officers. The Endeavour,

however, kept in company with the fleet till the morning of the 23rd,

at which time there was not a single vessel in sight. On that day died

Mr. Hicks, and in the evening his body was committed to the sea, with

the usual ceremonies. Mr. Charles Clerke, a young man extremely well

qualified for the station, and whose name will hereafter frequently

occur, received an order from Mr. Cook to act as lieutenant in Mr.

Hicks's room.

The rigging and sails of the ship were now become so bad, that

something was continually giving way. Nevertheless, our commander

pursued his course in safety; and on the 10th of June, land, which

proved to be the Lizard, was discovered by Nicholas Young, the boy who

had first seen New Zealand. On the 11th, the lieutenant ran up the

channel. At six the next morning he passed Beachy Head; and in the

afternoon of the same day, he came to an anchor in the Downs, and went

on shore at Deal.

Thus ended Mr. Cook's first voyage round the world, in which he had

gone through so many dangers, explored so many countries, and

exhibited the strongest proofs of his possessing an eminently

sagacious and active mind; a mind that was equal to every perilous

enterprise, and to the boldest and most successful efforts of

navigation and discovery.