CHAPTER II.

Narrative of Captain Cook's first voyage round the world.

There is scarcely any thing from which the natural curiosity of man

receives a higher gratification, than from the accounts of distant

countries and nations. Nor is it curiosity only that is gratified by

such accounts; for the sphere of human knowledge is hereby enlarged,

and various objects are brought into view, an acquaintance with which

greatly contributes to the improvement of life and the benefit of the

world. With regard to information of this kind, the moderns have

eminently the advantage over the ancients. The ancients could neither

pursue their enquiries with the same accuracy, nor carry them on to

the same extent. Travelling by land was much more inconvenient and

dangerous than it hath been in later times; and, as navigation was

principally confined to coasting, it must necessarily have been

circumscribed within very narrow limits.

The invention of the compass, seconded by the ardent and enterprising

spirit of several able men, was followed by wonderful discoveries.

Vasco di Gama doubled the Cape of Good Hope; and a new way being thus

found out to the East Indies, the countries to that part of the earth

became more accurately and extensively known. Another world was

discovered by Columbus; and, at length, Magalhaens accomplished the

arduous and hitherto unattempted task of sailing round the globe. At

different periods he was succeeded by other circumnavigators, of whom

it is no part of the present narrative to give an account.

The spirit of discovery, which was so vigorous during the latter end

of the fifteenth and through the whole of the sixteenth century,

began, soon after the commencement of the seventeenth century, to

decline. Great navigations were only occasionally undertaken, and more

from the immediate views of avarice or war, than from any noble and

generous principles. But of late years they have been revived, with

the enlarged and benevolent design of promoting the happiness of the

human species.

A beginning of this kind was made in the reign of George the Second,

during which two voyages were performed; the first under the command

of Captain Middleton, and the next under the direction of Captains

Smith and More, in order to discover a northwest passage through

Hudson's Bay. It was reserved, however, for the glory of the present

reign to carry the spirit of discovery to its height, and to conduct

it on the noblest principles; not for the purposes of covetuousness or

ambition; not to plunder or destroy the inhabitants of newly-explored

countries; but to improve their condition, to instruct them in the

arts of life, and to extend the boundaries of science.

No sooner was peace restored, in 1763, than these laudable designs

engaged his majesty's patronage; and two voyages round the world had

been undertaken before Mr. Cook set out on his first command. The

conductors of these voyages were the Captains Byron, Wallis, and

Carteret,[4] by whom several discoveries were made, which contributed,

in no small degree, to increase the knowledge of geography and

navigation. Nevertheless, as the purpose for which they were sent out

appears to have had a principal reference to a particular object in

the South Atlantic, the direct track they were obliged to hold, on

their way homeward by the East Indies, prevented them from doing so

much as might otherwise have been expected towards giving the world a

complete view of that immense expanse of ocean, which the South

Pacific comprehends.

[Footnote 4: The Captains Wallis and Carteret went out together

upon the same expedition; but the vessels they commanded having

accidentally parted company, they proceeded and returned by a

different route. Hence their voyages are distinctly related by Dr.

Hawkesworth.]

Before Captain Wallis and Captain Carteret had returned to Great

Britain, another voyage was resolved upon, for which the improvement

of astronomical science afforded the immediate occasion. It having

been calculated by astronomers, that a transit of Venus over the Sun's

disk would happen in 1769, it was judged that the best place for

observing it would be in some part of the South Sea, either at the

Marquesas, or at one of those islands which Tasman had called

Amsterdam; Rotterdam, and Middleburg, and which are now better known

under the appellation of the Friendly Islands. This being a matter of

eminent consequence in astronomy, and which excited the attention of

foreign nations as well as of our own, the affair was taken up by the

Royal Society, with the zeal which has always been displayed by that

learned body for the advancement of every branch of philosophical

science. Accordingly, a long memorial was addressed to his majesty,

dated February the 15th, 1768, representing the great importance of

the object, together with the regard which had been paid to it by the

principal courts of Europe; and entreating, among other things that a

vessel might be ordered, at the expense of government, for the

conveyance of suitable persons, to make the observation of the transit

of Venus, at one of the places before mentioned. This memorial having

been laid before the king by the Earl of Shelburne (now the Marquess

of Lansdown), one of the principal secretaries of state; his majesty

graciously signified his pleasure to the lords commissioners of the

Admiralty, that they should provide a ship for carrying over such

observers as the Royal Society should judge proper to send to the

South Seas; and, on the 3rd of April, Mr. Stephens informed the

society that a bark had been taken up for tire purpose.

The gentlemen who had originally been fixed upon to take the direction

of the expedition, was Alexander Dalrymple, Esq. an eminent member of

the Royal Society, and who, besides possessing an accurate knowledge

of astronomy, had distinguished himself by his inquiries into the

geography of the Southern Oceans, and by the collection he had

published of several voyages to those parts of the world. Mr.

Dalrymple being sensible of the difficulty, or rather of the

impossibility, of carrying a ship through unknown seas, the crew of

which were not subject to the military discipline of his majesty's

navy, he made it the condition of his going, that he should have a

brevet commission, as captain of the vessel, in the same manner as

such a commission had been granted to Dr. Halley, in his voyage of

discovery. To this demand Sir Edward Hawke, who was then at the head

of the Admiralty, and who possessed more of the spirit of his

profession than either of education or science, absolutely refused to

accede. He said, at the board, that his conscience would not allow him

to trust any ship of his majesty's to a person who had not regularly

been bred a seaman. On being further pressed upon the subject, Sir

Edward declared, that he would suffer his right hand to be cut off

before he would sign any such commission. In this he was, in some

degree, justified by the mutinous behaviour of Halley's crew, who

refused to acknowledge the legal authority of their commander, and

involved him in a dispute which was attended with pernicious

consequences. Mr. Dalrymple, on the other hand, was equally steady in

requiring a compliance with the terms he had proposed. Such was the

state of things, when Mr. Stephens, secretary to the Admiralty, whose

discrimination of the numerous characters, with which by his station

he is conversant, reflects as much credit on his understanding, as his

upright and able conduct does on the office he has filled for so many

years, and under so many administrations, with honour to himself and

advantage to the public, observed to the board, that since Sir Edward

Hawke and Mr. Dalrymple were equally inflexible, no method remained

but that of finding out another person capable of the service. He

knew, he said, a Mr. Cook, who had been employed as marine surveyor of

Newfoundland, who had been regularly educated in the navy, in which he

was a master, and whom he judged to be fully qualified for the

direction of the present undertaking. Mr. Stephens, at the same time,

recommended it to the board, to take the opinion of Sir Hugh Palliser,

who had lately been governor of Newfoundland, and was intimately

acquainted with Cook's character. Sir Hugh rejoiced in the opportunity

of serving his friend. He strengthened Mr. Stephen's recommendation to

the utmost of his power; and added many things in Mr. Cook's favour,

arising from the particular knowledge which he had of his abilities

and merit. Accordingly, Mr. Cook was appointed to the command of the

expedition by the lords of the Admiralty; and, on this occasion, he

was promoted to the rank of a lieutenant in the royal navy, his

commission bearing date on the 25th of May, 1768.

When the appointment had taken place, the first object was to provide

a vessel adapted to the purposes of the voyage. This business was

committed to Sir Hugh Palliser; who took Lieutenant Cook to his

assistance, and they examined together a great number of the ships

which then lay in the river Thames. At length they fixed upon one, of

three hundred and seventy tons, to which was given the name of the

Endeavour.

While preparations were making for Lieutenant Cook's expedition,

Captain Wallis returned from his voyage round the world. The Earl of

Morton, president of the Royal Society, had recommended it to this

gentleman, on his going out, to fix upon a proper place for observing

the transit of Venus. He kept, accordingly, the object in view: and

having discovered, in the course of his enterprise, an island called

by him George's Island, but which has since been found to bear the

name of Otaheite, he judged that Port Royal harbour in this island

would afford an eligible situation for the purpose. Having,

immediately on his return to England, signified his opinion to the

Earl of Morton, the captain's idea was adopted by the society, and an

answer conformable to it was sent to the commissioners of the

Admiralty, who had applied for directions to what place the observers,

should be sent.

Mr. Charles Green, a gentleman who had long been assistant to Dr.

Bradley at the royal observatory at Greenwich, was united by

Lieutenant Cook in conducting the astronomical part of the voyage;

and, soon after their appointment, they received ample instructions,

from the council of the Royal Society, with regard to the method of

carrying on their inquiries. The lieutenant was also accompanied by

Joseph Banks, Esq. (now Sir Joseph Banks, Bart.) and Dr. Solander,

who, in the prime of life, and the first of them at great expense to

himself, quitted all the gratifications of polished society, and

engaged in a very tedious, fatiguing, and hazardous navigation, with

the laudable views of acquiring knowledge in general, of promoting

natural knowledge in particular, and of contributing something to the

improvement and the happiness of the rude inhabitants of the earth.

Though it was the principal, it was not the sole object of Lieutenant

Cook's voyage to observe the transit of Venus. A more accurate

examination of the Pacific Ocean was committed to him, although in

subserviency to his main design; and, when his chief business was

accomplished, he was directed to proceed in making farther discoveries

in the great Southern Seas.

The complement of Lieutenant Cook's ship consisted of eighty-four

persons besides the commander. Her victualling was for eighteen

months; and there was put on board of her ten carriage and ten swivel

guns, together with an ample store of ammunition and other

necessaries.

On the 25th of May, 1768, Lieutenant Cook was appointed, by the lords

of the Admiralty, to the command of the Endeavour, in consequence of

which he went on board on the 27th, and took charge of the ship. She

then lay in the bason in Deptford-yard, where she continued to lie

till she was completely fitted for sea. On the 30th of July she sailed

down the river, and on the 13th of August anchored in Plymouth Sound.

The wind becoming fair on the 26th of that month, our navigators got

under sail, and on the 13th of September anchored in Funchiale Road,

in the island of Madeira.

While Lieutenant Cook and his company were in this island, they were

treated with the utmost kindness and liberality by Mr. Cheap, the

English consul there, and one of the most considerable merchants in

the town of Funchiale. He insisted upon their taking possession of his

house, and furnished them with every possible accommodation during

their stay at Madeira. They received, likewise, great marks of

attention and civility from Dr. Thomas Heberden, the principal

physician of the island, and brother to the excellent and learned Dr.

William Heberden of London. Dr. Thomas Heberden afforded all the

assistance in his power to Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander in their

botanical inquiries.

It was not solely from the English that the lieutenant and his friends

experienced a kind reception. The fathers of the Franciscan convent

displayed a liberality of sentiment towards them, which might not have

been expected from Portuguese friars; and, in a visit which they paid

to a convent of nuns, the ladies expressed a particular pleasure at

seeing them. At this visit the good nuns gave an amusing proof of the

progress they had made to the cultivation of their understandings.

Having heard that there were great philosophers among the English

gentlemen, they asked them a variety of questions; one of which was,

when it would thunder; and another, whether a spring of fresh water,

which was much wanted, was any where to be found within the walls of

the convent. Eminent as our philosophers were, they were puzzled by

these questions.

Lieutenant Cook, having laid in a fresh stock of beef, water, and

wine, set sail from the island of Madeira, in the night of the 18th of

September, and proceeded on his voyage. By the 7th of November several

articles of the ship's provisions began to fall short; for which

reason, the lieutenant determined to put into Rio de Janeiro. This

place he preferred to any other port in Brazil or to Falkland's

Islands, because he could there be better supplied with what he

wanted, and had no doubt of meeting with a friendly reception.

During the run between Madeira and Rio de Janeiro, Lieutenant Cook and

the gentlemen in the Endeavour had an opportunity of determining a

philosophical question. On the evening of the 29th of October, they

observed that luminous appearance of the sea which has so often been

mentioned by navigators, and which has been ascribed to such a variety

of causes. Flashes of light appeared to be emitted, exactly resembling

those of lightning, though without being so considerable; and such was

the frequency of them, that sometimes eight or ten were visible almost

at the same moment. It was the opinion of Mr. Cook and the other

gentlemen, that these flashes proceeded from some luminous animal; and

their opinion was confirmed by experiment.

At Rio de Janeiro, in the port of which Lieutenant Cook came to an

anchor on the 13th of November, he did not meet with the polite

reception that, perhaps, he had too sanguinely expected. His stay was

spent in continual altercations, with the viceroy, who appeared not a

little jealous of the designs of the English: nor were all the

attempts of the lieutenant to set the matter right, capable of

producing any effect. The viceroy was by no means distinguished either

by his knowledge or his love of science; and the grand object of Mr.

Cook's expedition was quite beyond his comprehension. When he was told

that the English were bound to the southward, by the order of his

Britannic majesty, to observe a transit of the planet Venus over the

Sun, an astronomical phenomenon of great importance to navigation, he

could form no other conception of the matter, than that it was the

passing of the North star through the South Pole.

During the whole of the contest with the viceroy, Lieutenant Cook

behaved with equal spirit and discretion. A supply of water and other

necessaries could not be refused him, and those were gotten on board

by the 1st of December. On that day the lieutenant sent to the viceroy

for a pilot to carry the Endeavour to sea; but the wind preventing the

ship from getting out, she was obliged to continue some time longer in

the harbour. A Spanish packet having arrived at Rio de Janeiro on the

2d of December, with dispatches from Buenos Ayres for Spain, the

commander, Don Antonio de Monte Negro y Velasco, offered, with great

politeness, to convey the letters of the English to Europe. This

favour Lieutenant Cook accepted, and gave Don Antonio a packet for the

secretary of the Admiralty, containing copies of all the papers that

had passed between himself and the Viceroy. He left, also, duplicates

with the viceroy, that he might forward them, if he thought proper, to

Lisbon.

On the 5th of December, it being a dead calm, our navigators weighed

anchor, and towed down the Bay; but, to their great astonishment, two

shots were fired at them; when they had gotten abreast of Santa Cruz,

the principal fortification of the harbour. Lieutenant Cook

immediately cast anchor, and sent to the fort to demand, the reason of

this conduct; the answer to which was, that the commandant had

received no order from the viceroy to let the ship pass; and that,

without such an order, no vessel was ever suffered to go below the

fort. It now became necessary to send to the viceroy, to inquire why

the order had not been given; and his behaviour appeared the more

extraordinary, as notice had been transmitted to him of the departure

of the English, and he had thought proper to write a polite letter to

Mr. Cook, wishing him a good voyage. The lieutenant's messenger soon

returned, with the information that the order had been written several

days, and that its not having been sent had arisen from some

unaccountable negligence. It was not till the 7th of December that the

Endeavour got under sail.

In the account which Lieutenant Cook has given of Rio de Janeiro, and

the country round it, one circumstance is recorded, which cannot be

otherwise than very painful to humanity. It is the horrid expense of

life at which the gold mines are wrought. No less than forty thousand

Negroes are annually imported for this purpose, on the king of

Portugal's account; and the English were credibly informed, that, in

the year 1766, this number fell so short, that twenty thousand more

were drafted from the town of Rio.

From Rio de Janeiro, Lieutenant Cook pursued his voyage, and, on the

14th of January, 1769, entered the Strait of Le Maire, at which time

the tide drove the ship out with so much violence, and raised such a

sea off Cape St. Diego, that she frequently pitched, so that the

bowsprit was under water. On the next day, the lieutenant anchored,

first before a small cove, which was understood to be Port Maurice,

and afterward in the Bay of Good Success. While the Endeavour was in

this station, happened the memorable adventure of Mr. Banks, Dr.

Solander, Mr. Monkhouse the surgeon, and Mr. Green the astronomer,

together with their attendants and servants, and two seamen, in

ascending a mountain to search for plants. In this expedition they

were all of them exposed to the utmost extremity of danger and of

cold; Dr. Solander was seized with a torpor which had nearly proved

fatal to his life; and two black servants actually died. When the

gentlemen had, at length, on the second day of their adventure, gotten

back to the ship, they congratulated each other on their safety, with

a joy that can only be felt by those who have experienced equal

perils; and Mr. Cook was relieved from a very painful anxiety. It was

a dreadful testimony of the severity of the climate, that this event

took place when it was the midst of summer in that part of the world,

and at the close of a day, the beginning of which was as mild and

warm, as the month of May usually is in England.

In the passage through the Strait of Le Maire, Lieutenant Cook and his

ingenious associates had an opportunity of gaining a considerable

degree of acquaintance with the inhabitants of the adjoining country.

Here it was that they saw human nature to its lowest form. The natives

appeared to be the most destitute and forlorn, as well as the most

stupid, of the children of men. Their lives are spent in wandering

about the dreary wastes that surround them; and their dwellings are no

other than wretched hovels of sticks and grass, which not only admit

the wind, but the snow and the rain. They are almost naked, and so

devoid are they of every convenience which is furnished by the rudest

art, that they have not so much as an implement to dress their food.

Nevertheless, they seemed to have no wish for acquiring more than they

possessed; nor did any thing that was offered them by the English

appear acceptable but beads, as an ornamental superfluity of life. A

conclusion is hence drawn by Dr. Hawkesworth, that these people may be

upon a level with ourselves, in respect to the happiness they enjoy.

This, however, is a position which ought not hastily to be admitted.

It is, indeed, a beautiful circumstance, in the order of Divine

Providence, that the rudest inhabitants of the earth, and those who

are situated in the most unfavourable climates, should not be sensible

of their disadvantages. But still it must be allowed, that their

happiness is greatly inferior, both in kind and degree, to that

intellectual, social, and moral felicity, which is capable of being

attained in a highly cultivated state of society.

In voyages to the South Pacific Ocean, the determination of the best

passage from the Atlantic is a point of peculiar importance. It is

well known what prodigious difficulties were experienced in this

respect by former navigators. The doubling of Cape Horn, in

particular, was so much dreaded, that, to the general opinion, it was

far more eligible to pass through the Strait of Magalhaens. Lieutenant

Cook hath fully ascertained the erroneousness of this opinion. He was

but three-and-thirty days in coming round the land of Terra del Fuego,

from the east entrance of the Strait of Le Maire, till he had advanced

about twelve degrees to the westward, and three and a half to the

northward of the Strait of Magalhaens; and, during this time, the ship

scarcely received any damage. Whereas, if he had come into the Pacific

Ocean by that passage, he would not have been able to accomplish it in

less than three months; besides which, his people would have been

fatigued, and the anchors, cables, sails, and rigging of the vessel

much injured. By the course he pursued, none of these inconveniences

were suffered. In short, Lieutenant Cook, by his own example in

doubling Cape Horn, by his accurate ascertainment of the latitude and

longitude of the places he came to, and by his instructions to future

voyagers, performed the most essential services to this part of

navigation. It was on the 26th of January that the Endeavour took her

departure from Cape Horn; and it appeared; that, from that time to the

1st of March, during a run of six hundred and sixty leagues, there was

no current which affected the ship. Hence it was highly probable that

our navigators had been near no land of any considerable extent,

currents being always found when land is not remote.

In the prosecution of Lieutenant Cook's voyage from Cape Horn to

Otaheite, several islands were discovered, to which the names were

given of Lagoon Island, Thrump-cap, Bow Island, The Groups, Bird

Island, and Chain Island. It appeared that most of these islands were

inhabited; and the verdure, and groves of palm-trees, which were

visible upon some of them, gave them the aspect of a terrestrial

paradise to men who, excepting the dreary hills of Terra del Fuego,

had seen nothing for a long time but sky and water.

On the 11th of April, the Endeavour arrived in sight of Otaheite, and

on the 13th she came to an anchor in Port Royal Bay, which is called

MATAVIA by the natives. As the stay of the English in the island was

not likely to be very short, and much depended on the manner in which

traffic should be carried on with the inhabitants, Lieutenant Cook,

with great good sense and humanity, drew up a set of regulations for

the behaviour of his people, and gave it in command that they should

punctually be observed.[5]

[Footnote 5: The rules were as follow: '1. To endeavour, by every

fair means, to cultivate a friendship with the natives: and to

treat them with all imaginable humanity. 2. A proper person or

persons will be appointed to trade with the natives for all manner

of provisions, fruit, and other productions of the earth; and no

officer or seaman, or other person belonging to, the ship

excepting such as are so appointed, shall trade, or offer to

trade, for any sort of provision, fruit, or other productions of

the earth, unless they have leave so to do. 3. Every person

employed on shore, on any duty whatsoever, is strictly to attend

to the same; and if by any neglect he loseth any of his arms, or

working tools or suffers them to be stolen, the full value

therefore will be charged against his pay, according to the custom

of the navy in such cases, and he shall receive such further

punishment as the nature of the offence may deserve. 4. The same

penalty will be inflicted on every person who is found to

embezzle, trade, or offer to trade, with any part of the ship's

stores of what nature soever. 5. No sort of iron, or any thing

that is made of iron, or any sort of cloth, or other useful or

necessary articles, are to be given in exchange for any thing but

provision. J. COOK.']

One of the first things that occupied the lieutenant's attention,

after his arrival at Otaheite, was to prepare for the execution of his

grand commission. For this purpose, as, in an excursion to the

westward, he had not found any more convenient harbour than that in

which the Endeavour lay, he determined to go on shore and fix upon

some spot, commanded by the guns of the ship, where he might throw up

a small fort for defence, and get every thing ready for making the

astronomical observations. Accordingly, he took a party of men, and

landed, being accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Green.

They soon fixed upon a place very proper for their design, and which

was at a considerable distance from any habitation of the natives.

While the gentlemen were marking out the ground which they intended to

occupy, and seeing a small tent erected, that belonged to Mr. Banks, a

great number of the people of the country gathered gradually around

them, but with no hostile appearance, as there was not among the

Indians a single weapon of any kind. Mr. Cook, however, intimated that

none of them were to come within the line he had drawn excepting one,

who appeared to be a chief, and Owhaw, a native who had attached

himself to the English, both in Captain Wallis's expedition and in the

present voyage. The lieutenant endeavoured to make these two persons

understand, that the ground, which had been marked out, was only

wanted to sleep upon for a certain number of nights, and that then it

would be quitted. Whether his meaning was comprehended or not, he

could not certainly determine; but the people behaved with a deference

and respect that could scarcely have been expected, and which were

highly pleasing. They sat down without the circle, peaceably and

uninterruptedly attending to the progress of the business, which was

upwards of two hours in completing.

This matter being finished, and Mr. Cook having appointed thirteen

marines and a petty officer to guard the tent, he and the gentlemen

with him set out upon a little excursion into the woods of the

country. They had not, however, gone far, before they were brought

back by a very disagreeable event. One of the Indians, who remained

about the tent after the lieutenant and his friends had left it,

watched an opportunity of taking the sentry at unawares, and snatched

away his musket. Upon this, the petty officer who commanded the party,

and who was a midshipman, ordered the marines to fire. With equal want

of consideration, and, perhaps with equal inhumanity, the men

immediately discharged their pieces among the thickest of the flying

crowd, who consisted of more than a hundred. It being observed, that

the thief did not fall, he was pursued, and shot dead. From subsequent

information it happily appeared, that none of the natives besides were

either killed or wounded.

Lieutenant Cook, who was highly displeased with the conduct of the

petty officer, used every method in his power to dispel the terrors

and apprehensions of the Indians, but not immediately with effect. The

next morning but few of the inhabitants were seen upon the beach, and

not one of them came off to the shill. What added particularly to the

regret of the English was, that even Owhaw, who had hitherto been so

constant in his attachment, and who the day before had been remarkably

active in endeavouring to renew the peace which had been broken, did

not now make his appearance. In the evening, however, when the

lieutenant went on shore with only a boat's crew and some of the

gentlemen, between thirty and forty of the natives gathered around

them, and trafficked with them, in a friendly manner, for cocoa nuts

and other fruit.

On the 17th, Mr. Cook and Mr. Green set up a tent onshore, and spent

the night there, in order to observe an eclipse of the first satellite

of Jupiter; but they met with a disappointment, in consequence of the

weather's becoming cloudy. The next day, the lieutenant, with as many

of his people as could possibly be spared from the ship, began to

erect the fort. While the English were employed in this business, many

of the Indians were so far from hindering, that they voluntarily

assisted them, and with great alacrity brought the pickets and facines

from the wood where they had been cut. Indeed, so scrupulous had Mr.

Cook been of invading their property, that every stake which was used

was purchased, and not a tree was cut down till their consent had

first been obtained.

On the 26th, the lieutenant mounted six swivel guns upon the fort; on

which occasion he saw, with concern, that the natives were alarmed and

terrified. Some fishermen, who lived upon the point, removed to a

greater distance; and Owhaw informed the English by signs, of his

expectation that in four days they would fire their great guns.

The lieutenant, on the succeeding day, gave a striking proof of his

regard to justice, and of his care to preserve the inhabitants from

injury and violence, by the punishment he inflicted on the butcher of

the Endeavour, who was accused of having threatened, or attempted the

life of a woman, that was the wife of Tubourai Tamaide, a chief,

remarkable for his attachment to our navigators. The butcher wanted to

purchase of her a stone hatchet for a nail. To this bargain she

absolutely refused to accede; upon which the fellow catched up the

hatchet, and threw down the nail; threatening, at the same time, that

if she made any resistance, he would cut her throat with a

reaping-hook which he had in his hand. The charge was so fully proved

in the presence of Mr. Banks, and the butcher had so little to say in

exculpation of himself, that not the least doubt remained of his

guilt. The affair being reported by Mr. Banks to Lieutenant Cook, he

took an opportunity, when the chief and his women, with others of the

natives, were on board the ship, to call up the offender, and, after

recapitulating the accusation and the proof of it, to give orders for

his immediate punishment. While the butcher was stripped, and tied up

to the rigging, the Indians preserved a fixed attention, and waited

for the event in silent suspense. But as soon as the first stroke was

inflicted, such was the humanity of these people, that they interfered

with great agitation, and earnestly entreated that the rest of the

punishment might be remitted. To this, however, the lieutenant, for

various reasons, could not grant his consent; and when they found that

their intercessions were ineffectual, they manifested their compassion

by tears.

On the 1st of May, the observatory was set up, and the astronomical

quadrant, together with some other instruments, was taken on shore.

When, on the next morning, Mr. Cook and Mr. Green landed for the

purpose of fixing the quadrant in a situation for use, to their

inexpressible surprise and concern it was not to be found. It had been

deposited in a tent reserved for the lieutenant's use, where no one

had slept; it had never been taken out of the packing case, and the

whole was of considerable weight: none of the other instruments were

missing; and a sentinel had been posted the whole night within five

yards of the tent. These circumstances induced a suspicion that the

robbery might have been committed by some of our own people, who

having seen a deal box, and not knowing the contents, might imagine

that it contained nails, or other articles for traffic with the

natives. The most diligent search, therefore, was made, and a large

reward was offered for the finding of the quadrant, but with no degree

of success. In this exigency, Mr. Banks was of eminent service. As

this gentleman had more influence over the Indians than any other

person on board the Endeavour, and as there could be little doubt of

the quadrant's having been conveyed away by some of the natives, he

determined to go in search of it into the woods; and it was recovered

in consequence of his judicious and spirited exertions. The pleasure

with which it was brought back was equal to the importance of the

event; for the grand object of the voyage could not otherwise have

been accomplished.

Another embarrassment, though not of so serious a nature, was

occasioned, on the very same day, by one of our officers having

inadvertently taken into custody Tootahah, a chief, who had connected

himself in the most friendly manner with the English. Lieutenant Cook,

who had given express orders that none of the Indians should be

confined, and who, therefore, was equally surprised and concerned at

this transaction; instantly set Tootahah at liberty. So strongly had

this Indian been possessed with the notion that it was intended to put

him to death, that he could not be persuaded to the contrary till he

was led out of the fort. His joy at his deliverance was so great, that

it displayed itself in a liberality which our people were very

unwilling to partake of, from a consciousness that on this occasion

they had no claim to the reception of favours. The impression,

however, of the confinement of the chief operated with such force upon

the minds of the natives, that few of them appeared; and the market

was so ill supplied that the English were in want of necessaries. At

length, by the prudent exertions of Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Banks, and

Dr. Solander, the friendship of Tootahah was completely recovered, and

the reconciliation worked upon the Indians like a charm; for it was no

sooner known that he had gone voluntarily on board the Endeavour, than

bread-fruit, cocoa nuts, and other provisions, were brought to the

fort in great plenty.

The lieutenant and the rest of the gentlemen had hitherto, with a

laudable discretion, bartered only beads for the articles of food now

mentioned. But the market becoming slack, they were obliged for the

first time, on the 8th of May, to bring out their nails; and such was

the effect of this new commodity, that one of the smallest size, which

was about four inches long, procured twenty cocoa nuts, and

bread-fruit in proportion.

It was not till the 10th of the month that our voyagers learned that

the Indian name of the island was OTAHEITE, by which name it hath

since been always distinguished.

On Sunday the 14th, an instance was exhibited of the inattention of

the natives to our modes of religion. The lieutenant had directed,

that divine service should be performed at the fort; and he was

desirous that some of the principal Indians should be present. Mr.

Banks secured the attendance of Tuobourai Tamaide and his wife Tomio,

hoping that it would give occasion to some inquiries on their part,

and to some instruction in return. During the whole service, they very

attentively observed Mr. Banks's behaviour, and stood, sat, or

kneeled, as they saw him do; and they appeared to be sensible, that it

was a serious and important employment in which the English were

engaged. But when the worship was ended, neither of them asked any

questions, nor would they attend to any explanations which were

attempted to be given of what had been performed.

As the day approached for executing the grand purpose of the voyage,

Lieutenant Cook determined, in consequence of some hints which he had

received from the Earl of Morton, to send out two parties, to observe

the transit of Venus from other situations. By this means he hoped,

that the success of the observation would be secured, if there should

happen to be any failure at Otaheite. Accordingly, on Thursday the 1st

of June, he dispatched Mr. Gore in the long boat to Eimeo, a

neighbouring island, together with Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Sporing, a

gentleman belonging to Mr. Banks. They were furnished by Mr. Green

with proper instruments. Mr. Banks himself chose to go upon this

expedition, in which he was accompanied by Tubourai Tamaide and Tomio,

and by others of the natives. Early the next morning, the lieutenant

sent Mr. Hicks, in the pinnace, with Mr. Clerk and Mr. Pickersgill,

and Mr. Saunders, one of the midshipmen, ordering them to fix upon

some convenient spot to the eastward, at a distance from the principal

observatory, where they also might employ the instruments they were

provided with for observing the transit.

The anxiety for such weather as would be favourable to the success of

the experiment, was powerfully felt by all the parties concerned. They

could not sleep in peace the preceding night: but their apprehensions

were happily removed by the sun's rising, on the morning of the 3d of

June, without a cloud. The weather continued with equal clearness

through the whole of the day; so that the observation was successively

made in every quarter. At the fort where Lieutenant Cook, Mr. Green,

and Dr. Solander were stationed, the whole passage of the planet Venus

over the sun's disk was observed with great advantage. The magnifying

power of Dr. Solander's telescope was superior to that of those which

belonged to the lieutenant and to Mr. Green. They all saw an

atmosphere or dusky cloud round the body of the planet; which much

disturbed the times of the contact, and especially of the internal

ones; and, in their accounts of these times, they differed from each

other in a greater degree than might have been expected. According to

Mr. Green,

_Morning._

The first external contact, or first appearance h. min. sec.

of Venus on the sun, was . . . . . . . . . . . 9 25 42

The first internal contact, or total immersion,

was . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 44 4

_Afternoon._

The second internal contact, or beginning

of the emersion, was . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 14 8

The second external contact, or total

emersion, was . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 32 10

The latitude of the observatory was found to be

17° 29' 15"; and the longitude 149° 32' 30" west

of Greenwich.

A more particular account of this great astronomical event, the

providing for the accurate observation of which reflects so much

honour on his majesty's munificent patronage of science, may be seen

in the sixty-first volume of the Philosophical Transactions.

The pleasure which Lieutenant Cook and his friends derived, from

having thus successfully accomplished the first grand object of the

voyage, was not a little abated by the conduct of some of the ship's

company, who, while the attention of the officers was engrossed by the

transit of Venus, broke into one of the store-rooms, and stole a

quantity of spike nails, amounting to no less than a hundred weight.

This was an evil of a public and serious nature; for these nails, if

injudiciously circulated among the Indians, would be productive of

irreparable injury to the English, by reducing the value of iron,

their staple commodity. One of the thieves, from whom only seven nails

were recovered, was detected; but though the punishment of two dozen

lashes was inflicted upon him, he would not impeach any of his

accomplices.

Upon account of the absence of the two parties who had been sent out

to observe the transit, the king's birthday was celebrated on the 5th,

instead of the 4th of June; and the festivity of the day must have

been greatly heightened by the happy success with which his majesty's

liberality had been crowned.

On the 12th, Lieutenant Cook was again reduced to the necessity of

exercising the severity of discipline. Complaint having been made to

him, by certain of the natives, that two of the seamen had taken from

them several bows and arrows, and some strings of platted hair, and

the charge being fully supported, he punished each of the criminals

with two dozen of lashes.

On the same day it was discovered, that Otaheite, like other countries

in a certain period of society, has its bards and its minstrels. Mr.

Banks, in his morning's walk, had met with a number of natives, who

appeared, upon inquiry, to be travelling musicians; and, having,

learned where they were to be at night, all the gentlemen of the

Endeavour repaired to the place. The band consisted of two flutes and

three drums; and the drummers accompanied the music with their voices.

To the surprise of the English gentlemen, they found that themselves

were generally the subject of the song, which was unpremeditated.

These minstrels were continually going about from place to place; and

they were rewarded, by the master of the house and the audience, with

such things as they wanted.

The repeated thefts which were committed by the inhabitants of

Otaheite brought our voyagers into frequent difficulties, and it

required all the wisdom of Lieutenant Cook to conduct himself in a

proper manner. His sentiments on the subject displayed the liberality

of his mind. He thought it of consequence to put an end, if possible

to thievish practices at once, by doing something that should engage

the natives in general to prevent them, from a regard to their common

interest. Strict orders had been given by him, that they should not

be fired upon, even when they were detected in attempting to steal any

of the English property. For this the lieutenant had many reasons. The

common sentinels were in no degree fit to be entrusted with a power of

life and death; neither did Mr. Cook think that the thefts committed

by the Otaheitans deserved so severe a punishment. They were not born

under the law of England; nor was it one of the conditions under which

they claimed the benefits of civil society, that their lives should be

forfeited, unless they abstained from theft. As the lieutenant was not

willing that the natives should be exposed to fire-arms loaded with

shot, neither did he approve of firing only with powder, which, if

repeatedly found to be harmless, would at length be despised. At a

time when a considerable robbery had been committed, an accident

furnished him with what he hoped would be a happy expedient for

preventing future attempts of the same kind. Above twenty of the

sailing canoes of the inhabitants came in with a supply of fish. Upon

these Lieutenant Cook immediately seized, and, having brought them

into the river behind the fort, gave notice, that unless the things

which had been stolen were returned, the canoes should be burnt. This

menace, without designing to put it into execution, he ventured to

publish, from a full conviction that, as restitution was thus made a

common cause, the stolen goods would all of them speedily be brought

back. In this, however, he was mistaken. An iron coal-rake, indeed,

was restored; upon which, great solicitation was made for the release

of the canoes; but he still insisted on his original condition. When

the next day came, he was much surprised to find that nothing further

had been returned; and, as the people were in the utmost distress for

the fish, which would in a short time be spoiled, he was reduced to

the disagreeable alternative, either of releasing the canoes contrary

to what he had solemnly and publicly declared, or of detaining them,

to the great damage of those who were innocent. As a temporary

expedient, he permitted the natives to take the fish, but still

detained the canoes. So far was this measure from being attended with

advantage, that it was productive of new confusion and injury; for as

it was not easy at once to distinguish to what particular persons the

several lots of fish belonged, the canoes were plundered by those who

had no right to any part of their cargo. At length, most pressing

instances being still made for the restoration of the canoes, and

Lieutenant Cook having reason to believe, either that the things for

which he detained them were not in the island, or that those who

suffered by their detention were absolutely incapable of prevailing

upon the thieves to relinquish their booty, he determined, though not

immediately, to comply with the solicitations of the natives. Our

commander was, however, not a little mortified at the ill success of

his project.

About the same time, another accident occurred, which, notwithstanding

all the caution of our principal voyagers, was very near embroiling

them with the Indians. The lieutenant having sent a boat on shore to

get ballast for the ship, the officer, not immediately finding stones

suitable to the purpose, began to pull down some part of an enclosure

in which the inhabitants had deposited the bones of their dead. This

action a number of the natives violently opposed; and a messenger came

down to the tents, to acquaint the gentlemen that no such thing would

be suffered. Mr. Banks directly repaired to the place, and soon put an

amicable end to the contest, by sending the boat's crew to the river,

where a sufficient quantity of stones might be gathered without a

possibility of giving offence. These Indians appeared to be much more

alarmed at any injury which they apprehended to be done to the dead

than to the living. This was the only measure in which they ventured

to oppose the English: and the only insult that was ever offered to

any individual belonging to the Endeavour was upon a similar occasion.

It should undoubtedly be the concern of all voyagers, to abstain from

wantonly offending the religious prejudices of the people among whom

they come.

To extend the knowledge of navigation and the sphere of discovery,

objects which we need not say that Lieutenant Cook kept always

steadily in view, he set out, in the pinnace, on the 26th of June,

accompanied by Mr. Banks, to make the circuit of the island; during

which the lieutenant and his companions were thrown into great alarm,

by the apprehended loss of the boat. By this expedition Mr. Cook

obtained an acquaintance with the several districts of Otaheite, the

chiefs who presided over them, and a variety of curious circumstances

respecting the manners and customs of the inhabitants. On the 1st of

July, he got back to the fort at Matavai, having found the circuit of

the island, including the two peninsulas of which it consisted, to be

about thirty leagues.

The circumnavigation of Otaheite was followed by an expedition of Mr.

Banks's to trace the river up the valley from which it issues, and

examine how far its banks were inhabited. During this excursion he

discerned many traces of subterraneous fire. The stones, like those of

Madeira, displayed evident tokens of having been burnt; and the very

clay upon the hills had the same appearance.

Another valuable employment of Mr. Banks was the planting of a great

quantity of the seeds of watermelons, oranges, lemons, limes, and

other plants and trees, which he had collected at Rio de Janeiro. For

these he prepared ground on each side of the fort, and selected as

many varieties of soil as could be found. He gave, also, liberally of

these seeds to the natives, and planted many of them in the woods.

Lieutenant Cook now began to prepare for his departure. On the 7th of

July, the carpenters were employed in taking down the gates and

palisadoes of the fortification; and it was continued to be dismantled

during the two following days. Our commander and the rest of the

gentlemen were in hopes that they should quit Otaheite without giving

or receiving any further offence; but in this respect they were

unfortunately disappointed. The lieutenant had prudently overlooked a

dispute of a smaller nature between a couple of foreign seamen and

some of the Indians, when he was immediately involved in a quarrel,

which lie greatly regretted, and which yet it was totally out of his

power to avoid. In the middle of the night, between the 8th and the

9th, Clement Webb and Samuel Gibson, two of the marines, went

privately from the fort. As they were not to be found in the morning,

Mr. Cook was apprehensive that they intended to stay behind; but,

being unwilling to endanger the harmony and goodwill which at present

subsisted between our people, and the natives, he determined to wait a

day for the chance of the men's return. As, to the great concern of

the lieutenant, the marines were not come back on the morning of the

tenth, inquiry was made after them of the Indians, who acknowledged

that each of them had taken a wife, and had resolved to become

inhabitants of the country. After some deliberation, two of the

natives undertook to conduct such persons to, the place of the

deserters' retreat, as Mr. Cook should think proper to send; and,

accordingly, he dispatched with the guides a petty officer and the

corporal of the marines. As it was of the utmost importance to recover

the men, and to do it speedily, it was intimated to several of the

chiefs who were in the fort with the women, among whom were Tubourai

Targaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not be to leave it till

the fugitives were returned; and the lieutenant had the pleasure of

observing, that they received the intimation with very little

indications of alarm, and with assurances, that his people should be

secured and sent back as soon as possible. While this transaction took

place at the fort, our commander sent Mr. Hicks in the pinnace to

fetch Tootahah on board the ship. Mr. Cook had reason to expect, if

the Indian guides proved faithful, that the deserters, and those who

went in search of them, would return before the evening. Being

disappointed, his suspicions increased, and thinking it not safe, when

the night approached, to let the persons whom he had detained as

hostages continue at the fort, he ordered Tubourai Tamaide, Oberea,

and some others, to be taken on board the Endeavour; a circumstance

which excited so general an alarm, that several of them, and

especially the women, expressed their apprehensions with great emotion

and many tears. Webb, about nine o'clock, was brought back by some of

the natives, who declared that Gibson, and the petty officer and

corporal, would not be restored till Tootahah should be set at

liberty. Lieutenant Cook now found that the tables were turned upon

him: but, having proceeded too far to retreat, he immediately

dispatched Mr. Hicks in the long-boat, with a strong party of men, to

rescue the prisoners. Tootahah was, at the same time, informed, that

it behoved him to send some of his people with them, for the purpose

of affording them effectual assistance. With this injunction he

readily complied, and the prisoners were restored without the least

opposition. On the next day they were brought back to the ship, upon

which the chiefs were released from their confinement. Thus ended an

affair which had given the lieutenant a great deal of trouble and

concern. It appears, however, that the measure which he pursued was

the result of an absolute necessity; since it was only by the seizure

of the chiefs that he could have recovered his men. Love was the

seducer of the two marines. So strong was the attachment which they

had formed to a couple of girls, that it was their design to conceal

themselves till the ship had sailed, and to take up their residence in

the island.

Tupia was one of the natives who had so particularly devoted himself

to the English, that he had scarcely ever been absent from them during

the whole of their stay at Otaheite. He had been Oberea's first

minister, while she was in the height of her power; and he was also

chief priest of the country. To his knowledge of the religious

principles and ceremonies of the Indians, he added great experience in

navigation, and a particular acquaintance with the number and

situation of the neighbouring islands. This man had often expressed a

desire to go with our navigators, and when they were ready to depart,

he came on board, with a boy about thirteen years of age, and

entreated that he might be permitted to proceed with them on their

voyage. To have such a person in the Endeavour, was desirable on many

accounts; and therefore, Lieutenant Cook gladly acceded to his

proposal.

On the 13th of July, the English weighed anchor: and as soon as the

ship was under sail, the Indians on board took their leaves, and wept

with a decent and silent sorrow, in which there was something very

striking and tender. Tupia sustained himself in this scene with a

truly admirable firmness and resolution; for, though he wept, the

effort he made to conceal his tears concurred, with them, to do him

honour.

The stay of our voyagers at Otaheite was three months, the greater

part of which time was spent in the most cordial friendship with the

inhabitants, and a perpetual reciprocation of good offices. That any

differences should happen was greatly regretted on the part of

Lieutenant Cook and his friends, who were studious to avoid them as

much as possible. The principal causes of them resulted from the

peculiar situation and circumstances of the English and the Indians,

and especially from the disposition of the latter to theft. The

effects of this disposition could not always be submitted to or

prevented. It was happy, however, that there was only a single

instance in which the differences that arose were attended with any

fatal consequence; and by that accident the lieutenant was instructed

to take the most effectual measures for the future prevention of

similar events. He had nothing so much at heart, as that in no case

the intercourse of his people with the natives should be productive of

bloodshed.

The traffic with the inhabitants for provisions and refreshments,

which was chiefly under the management of Mr. Banks, was carried on

with as much order as in any well regulated market in Europe. Axes,

hatchets, spikes, large nails, looking-glasses, knives, and beads,

were found to be the best articles to deal in; and for some of these,

every thing which the inhabitants possessed might be procured. They

were, indeed, fond of fine linen cloth, whether white or printed; but

an axe worth half-a-crown would fetch more than a piece of cloth of

the value of twenty shillings.

It would deviate from the plan of this narrative, to enter into a

minute account of the nature, productions, inhabitants, customs, and

manners of the countries which were discovered or visited by Mr. Cook;

or to give a particular detail of every nautical, geographical, and

astronomical observation. It will be sufficient here to take notice,

that our commander did not depart from Otaheite without accumulating a

store of information and instruction for the enlargement of knowledge

and the benefit of navigation.

While the Endeavour proceeded on her voyage under an easy sail, Tupia

informed Lieutenant Cook, that, at four of the neighbouring islands,

which he distinguished by the names of Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and

Bolabola, hogs, fowls and other refreshments, which had latterly been

sparingly supplied at Otaheite, might be procured in great plenty. The

lieutenant, however, was desirous of first examining an island that

lay to the northward, and was called Tethuroa. Accordingly, he came

near it; but having found it to be only a small low island and being

told, at the same time, that it had no settled inhabitants, he

determined to drop any further examination of it, and to go in search

of Huaheine and Ulietea, which were described to be well peopled, and

as large as Otaheite.

On the 15th of July, the weather being hazy, with light breezes and

calms succeeding each other, so that no land could be seen, and little

way was made, Tupia afforded an amusing proof, that, in the exercise

of his priestly character, he knew how to unite some degree of art

with his superstition. He often prayed for a wind to his god Tane, and

as often boasted of his success. This, indeed, he took a most

effectual method to secure; for he never began his address to his

divinity, till he perceived the breeze to be so near, that he knew it

must approach the ship before his supplication could well be brought

to a conclusion.

The Endeavour, on the 16th, being close in with the north-west part of

Huaheine, some canoes soon came off, in one of which was the king of

the island and his wife. At first the people seemed afraid; but, upon

seeing Tupia, their apprehensions were in part dispersed, and, at

length, in consequence of frequent and earnestly repeated assurances

of friendship, their majesties, and several others, ventured on board

the ship. Their astonishment at every thing which was shewn them was

very great; and yet their curiosity did not extend to any objects but

what were particularly pointed out to their notice. When they had

become more familiar, Mr. Cook was given to understand, that the king

was called Oree, and that he proposed as a mark of amity, their making

an exchange of their names. To this our commander readily consented;

and, during the remainder of their being together, the lieutenant was

Oree, and his majesty was Cookee. In the afternoon, the Endeavour

having come to an anchor, in a small but excellent harbour on the west

side of the island, the name of which was Owharre, Mr. Cook,

accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Monkhouse, Tupia, and the

natives who had been on board ever since the morning, immediately went

on shore. The English gentlemen repeated their excursions on the two

following days; in the course of which they found that the people of

Huaheine had a very near resemblance to those of Otaheite, in person,

dress language, and every other circumstance; and that the productions

of the country were exactly similar.

In trafficking with our people, the inhabitants of Huaheine displayed

a caution and hesitation which rendered the dealing with them slow and

tedious. On the 19th, therefore, the English were obliged to bring out

some hatchets, which it was at first hoped there would be no occasion

for, in an island that had never before been visited by any European.

These procured three very large hogs; and as it was proposed to sail

in the afternoon, Oree and several others came on board to take their

leave. To the king Mr. Cook gave a small pewter plate, on which was

stamped this inscription; 'His Britannic Majesty's ship Endeavour,

Lieutenant James Cook, commander, 16th July, 1769, Huaheine.' Among

other presents made to Oree, were some medals or counters, resembling

the coin of England, and struck in the year 1761; all of which, and

particularly the plate he promised carefully and inviolably to

preserve. This the lieutenant thought to be as lasting a testimony as

any he could well provide, that the English had first discovered the

island; and having dismissed his visitors, who were highly pleased

with the treatment they had met with, he sailed for Ulietea, in a good

harbour of which he anchored the next day.

Tupia had expressed his apprehension, that our navigators, if they

landed upon the island, would be exposed to the attacks of the men of

Bolabola, whom he represented as having lately conquered it, and of

whom he entertained a very formidable idea. This, however, did not

deter Mr. Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander and the other gentlemen, from

going immediately on shore. Tupia, who was of the party, introduced

them by performing some ceremonies which he had practised before at

Huaheine. After this the lieutenant hoisted an English jack, and in

the name of his Britannic majesty, took possession of Ulietea, and the

three neighbouring islands, Huaheine, Otaha, and Bolabola all of which

were in sight.

On the 21st, the master was despatched in the longboat, to examine the

coast of the south part of the island; and one of the mates was sent

in the yawl, to sound the harbour where the Endeavour lay. At the same

time Lieutenant Cook went himself in the pinnace, to survey that part

of Ulietea which lies to the north. Mr. Banks likewise, and the

gentlemen again went on shore, and employed themselves in trading with

the natives, and in examining the productions and curiosities of the

country; but they saw nothing worthy of notice, excepting some human

jaw-bones, which, like scalps among the Indians of North America, were

trophies of war, and had probably been hung up, by the warriors of

Bolabola, as a memorial of their conquest.

The weather being hazy on the 22d and 23d, with strong gales, the

lieutenant did not venture to put to sea; but, on the 24th, though the

wind continued to be variable, he got under sail, and plied to the

northward within the reef, purposing to get out at a wider opening

than that by which he had entered the harbour. However, in doing this,

he was in imminent danger of striking on the rock. The master, who by

his order had kept continually sounding in the chains, suddenly called

out, 'two fathom.' Though our commander knew that the ship drew at

least fourteen feet, and consequently that the shoal could not

possibly be under her keel, he was, nevertheless, justly alarmed.

Happily, the master was either mistaken, or the Endeavour went along

the edge of a coral rock, many of which, in the neighbourhood of these

islands, are as steep as a wall.

After a tedious navigation of some days, during which several small

islands were seen, and the longboat landed at Otaha, Lieutenant Cook

returned to Ulietea, but to a different part of it from that which he

had visited before. In a harbour, belonging to the west side of the

island, he came to an anchor on the 1st of August. This measure was

necessary, in order to stop a leak which the ship had sprung in the

powder-room, and to take in more ballast, as she was found too light

to carry sail upon a wind. The place where the Endeavour was secured

was conveniently situated for the lieutenant's purpose of obtaining

ballast and water.

Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander and the gentlemen who went on shore this day,

spent their time much to their satisfaction. The reception they met

was respectful in the highest degree, and the behaviour of the Indians

to the English indicated a fear of them, mixed with a confidence that

they had no propensity to commit any kind of injury. In an intercourse

which the lieutenant and his friends carried on, for several days,

with the inhabitants of this part of the island, it appeared that the

terrors which Tupia had expressed of the Bolabola conquerors were

wholly groundless. Even Opoony, the formidable king of Bolabola,

treated our navigators with respect. Being at Ulietea on the 5th of

August, he sent Mr. Cook a present of three hogs, some fowls, and

several pieces of cloth, of uncommon length, together with a

considerable quantity of plaintains, cocoa-nuts, and other

refreshments. This present was accompanied with a message, that, on

the next day, he intended to pay our commander a visit. Accordingly,

on the 6th, the lieutenant and the rest of the gentlemen all staid at

home, in expectation of this important visitor; who did not, however,

make his appearance, but sent three very pretty girls as his

messengers, to demand something in return for his present. In the

afternoon, as the great king would not go to the English, the English

determined to go to the great king. From the account which had been

given of him, as lord of the Bolabola men, who were the conquerors of

Ulietea, and the terror of all the other islands, Lieutenant Cook and

his companions expected to see a young and vigorous chief, with an

intelligent countenance, and the marks of an enterprising spirit;

instead of which they found a feeble wretch, withered and decrepit,

half blind with age, and so sluggish and stupid, that he scarcely

appeared to be possessed even of a common degree of understanding.

Otaha being the principal place of Opoony's residence, he went with

our navigators to that island on the next day; and they were in hopes

of deriving some advantage from his influence, in obtaining such

provision as they wanted. In this respect, however, they were

disappointed; for, though they had presented him with an axe, as an

inducement to him to encourage his subjects in dealing with them they

were obliged to leave him without having procured a single article.

The time which the carpenters had taken up in stopping the leak of the

ship having detained our voyagers longer at Ulietea than they would

otherwise have staid, Lieutenant Cook determined to give up the design

of going on shore at Bolabola, especially as it appeared to be

difficult of access. The principal islands, about which the English

had now spent somewhat more than three weeks, were six in number;

Ulietea, Otaha, Bolabola, Huaheine, Tubai, and Maurua. As they lie

contigious to each other, the lieutenant gave them the general

appellation of the Society Islands; but did not think proper to

distinguish them separately by any other names than those by which

they were called by the natives.

On the 9th of August, the leak of the vessel having been stopped, and

the fresh stock that had been purchased being brought on board, our

commander took the opportunity of a breeze which sprang up at east,

and sailed out of the harbour. As he was sailing away, Tupia strongly

urged him to fire a shot towards Bolabola; and, though that island was

at seven leagues distance, the lieutenant obliged him by complying

with his request. Tupia's views probably were, to display a mark of

his resentment, and to shew the power of his new allies.

Our voyagers pursued their course, without meeting with any event

worthy of notice, till the 13th, when land was discovered, bearing

south-east, and which Tupia informed them to be an island called

Oheteroa. On the next day, Mr. Cook sent Mr. Gore, one of his

lieutenants, in the pinnace, with orders, that he should endeavour to

get onshore, and learn from the natives, whether there was anchorage

in a bay then in sight, and what land lay further to the southward.

Mr. Gore was accompanied in this expedition by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander

and Tupia, who used every method, but in vain, to conciliate the minds

of the inhabitants, and to engage them in a friendly intercourse. As,

upon making the circuit of the island, neither harbour nor anchorage

could be found upon it, and at the same time, the disposition of the

people was so hostile, that landing would be rendered impracticable

without bloodshed, Mr. Cook determined, with equal wisdom and

humanity, not to attempt it, having no motive that could justify the

risk of life.

From Tupia our navigators learned, that there were various islands

lying at different distances and in different directions from

Oheteroa, between the south and the north-west; and that to the

north-east there was an island called Manua, Bird Island. This he

represented as being at the distance of three days' sail; but he

seemed most desirous that Lieutenant Cook should proceed to the

westward, and described several islands in that situation, which he

said he had visited. It appeared from his description of them, that

these were probably Boscawen and Keppel's Islands, which were

discovered by Captain Wallis. The furthest island that Tupia knew of

to the southward, lay, he said, at the distance of about two days'

sail from Oheteroa, and was called Moutou. But he added, that his

father had informed him of there being islands still more to the

south. Upon the whole, our commander determined to stand southward in

search of a continent, and to lose no time in attempting to discover

any other islands, than such as he might happen to fall in with during

his course.

On the 15th of August, our voyagers sailed from Oheteroa; and, on the

25th of the same month was celebrated the anniversary of their

departure from England. The comet was seen on the 30th. It was a

little above the horizon, in the eastern part of the heavens, at one

in the morning; and at about half an hour after four it passed the

meridian, and its tail subtended an angle of forty-two degrees. Tupia,

who was among others that observed the comet, instantly cried out,

that as soon as it should be seen by the people of Bolabola, they

would attack the inhabitants of Ulietea, who would be obliged to

endeavour to preserve their lives by fleeing with the utmost

precipitation to the mountains.

On the 6th of October land was discovered, which appeared to be large.

When, on the next day, it was more distinctly visible, it assumed a

still larger appearance, and displayed four or five ranges of hills,

rising one over the other, above all which was a chain of mountains of

an enormous height. This land naturally became the subject of much

eager conversation; and the general opinion of the gentlemen on board

the Endeavour was, that they had found the _Terra australis

incognita_. In fact, it was a part of New Zealand, where the first

adventures the English met with were very unpleasant, on account of

the hostile disposition of the inhabitants.

Lieutenant Cook having anchored, on the 8th, in a bay, at the entrance

of a small river, went on shore in the evening, with the pinnace and

yawl, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, and attended with a

party of men. Being desirous of conversing with some natives, whom he

had observed on the opposite side of the river from that on which he

had landed, he ordered the yawl in, to carry himself and his

companions over, and left the pinnace at the entrance. When they came

near the place where the Indians were assembled, the latter all ran

away; and the gentlemen having left four boys to take care of the

yawl, walked up to several huts, which were about two or three hundred

yards from the water-side. They had not gone very far, when four men,

armed with long lances, rushed out of the woods, and, running up to

attack the boat, would certainly have cut her off, if they had not

been discovered by the people in the pinnace, who called to the boys

to drop down the stream. The boys instantly obeyed; but being closely

pursued by the natives, the cockswain of the pinnace, to whom the

charge of the boats was committed, fired a musket over their heads. At

this they stopped and looked around them; but their alarm speedily

subsiding, they brandished their lances in a threatening manner, and

in a few minutes renewed the pursuit. The firing of a second musket

over their heads did not draw from them any kind of notice. At last

one of them having lifted up his spear to dart it at the boat, another

piece was fired, by which he was shot dead. At the fall of their

associate, the three remaining Indians stood for awhile motionless,

and seemed petrified with astonishment. No sooner had they recovered

themselves, than they went back, dragging after them the dead body,

which, however, they were obliged to leave, that it might not retard

their flight. Lieutenant Cook and his friends, who had straggled to a

little distance from each other, were drawn together upon the report

of the first musket, and returned speedily to the boat, in which

having crossed the river, they soon beheld the Indian lying dead upon

the ground. After their return to the ship, they could hear the people

on shore talking with great earnestness, and in a very loud tone of

voice.

Notwithstanding this disaster, the lieutenant being desirous of

establishing an intercourse with the natives, ordered, on the

following day, three boats to be manned with seamen and marines, and

proceeded towards the shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander,

the other gentlemen, and Tupia. About fifty of the inhabitants seemed

to wait for their landing, having seated themselves upon the ground,

on the opposite side of the river. This being regarded as a sign of

fear, Mr. Cook, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, advanced

towards them; but they had not gone many paces before all the Indians

started up, and every man produced either a long pike, or a small

weapon of green talk. Though Tupia called to them in the language of

Otaheite, they only answered by flourishing their weapons, and making

signs for the gentlemen to depart. On a musket being fired wide of

them, they desisted from their threats; and our commander, who had

prudently retreated till the marines could be landed, again advanced

towards them, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, to whom were

now added Mr. Green and Mr. Monkhouse. Tupia was a second time

directed to speak to them, and it was perceived with great pleasure

that he was perfectly understood, his and their language being the

same, excepting only in a diversity of dialect. He informed them that

our voyagers only wanted provision and water, in exchange for iron,

the properties of which he explained as far as he was able. Though the

natives seemed willing to trade, Tupia was sensible, during the course

of his conversation with them, that their intentions were unfriendly;

and of this he repeatedly warned the English gentlemen. At length,

twenty or thirty of the Indians were induced to cross the river, upon

which presents were made them of iron and beads. On these they

appeared to set little value and particularly on the iron, not having

the least conception of its use, so that nothing was obtained in

return excepting a few feathers. Their arms, indeed, they offered to

exchange for those of our voyagers, and this being refused, they made

various attempts to snatch them out of their hands. Tupia was now

instructed to acquaint the Indians, that our gentlemen would be

obliged to kill them, if they proceeded to any further violence;

notwithstanding which, one of them, while Mr. Green happened to turn

about, seized his hanger, and retired to a little distance, with a

shout of exultation. The others, at the same time, began to be

extremely insolent, and more of the natives were seen coming to join

them from the opposite side of the river. It being, therefore,

necessary to repress them, Mr. Banks fired, with small shot, at the

distance of about fifteen yards, upon the man who had taken the

hanger. Though he was struck, he did not return the hanger, but

continued to wave it round his head, while he slowly made his retreat.

Mr. Monkhouse then fired at him with ball, and he instantly dropped.

So far, however, were the Indians from being sufficiently terrified,

that the main body of them, who, upon the first discharge, had retired

to a rock in the middle of the river, began to return, and it was with

no small difficulty that Mr. Monkhouse secured the hanger. The whole

number of them continuing to advance, three of the English party

discharged their pieces at them, loaded only with small shot, upon

which they swam back for the shore, and it appeared, upon their

landing, that two or three of them were wounded. While they retired

slowly up the country, Lieutenant Cook and his companions re-embarked

in their boats.

As the lieutenant had unhappily experienced that nothing, at this

place, could be done with these people and found that the water in the

river was salt, he proceeded in the boats round the head of the bay in

search of fresh water. Beside this, he had formed a design of

surprising some of the natives, and taking them on board, that, by

kind treatment and presents he might obtain their friendship, and

render them the instruments of establishing for him an amicable

intercourse with their countrymen. While, upon account of a dangerous

surf which every where beat upon the shore, the boats were prevented

from landing, our commander saw two canoes coming in from the sea, one

under sail, and the other worked with paddles. This he thought to be a

favourable opportunity for executing his purpose. Accordingly, the

boats were disposed in such a manner as appeared most likely to be

successful in intercepting the canoes. Notwithstanding this, the

Indians in the canoe which was paddled exerted themselves with so much

vigour, at the first apprehension of danger, that they escaped to the

nearest land. The other canoe sailed on without discerning the

English, till she was in the midst of them; but no sooner had she

discovered them, than the people on board struck their sail, and plied

their paddles so briskly, as to outrun the boat by which they were

pursued. Being within hearing, Tupia called to them to come alongside,

with assurances that they should not in any degree be hurt or injured.

They trusted, however, more to their own paddles than to Tupia's

promises, and continued to flee from our navigators with all their

power. Mr. Cook, as the least exceptionable expedient of accomplishing

his design, ordered a musket to be fired over their heads. This, he

hoped, would either make them surrender or leap into the water, but it

produced a contrary effect. The Indians, who were seven in number,

immediately formed a resolution not to fly, but to fight. When,

therefore, the boat came up, they began to attack with their paddles,

and with stones and other offensive weapons; and they carried it on

with so much vigour and violence, that the English thought themselves

obliged to fire upon them in their own defence; the consequence of

which was, that four were unhappily killed. The other three, who were

boys, the eldest about nineteen, and the youngest about eleven,

instantly leaped into the water, and endeavoured to make their escape;

but being with some difficulty overpowered by our people, they were

brought into the boat.

It is impossible to reflect upon this part of Lieutenant Cook's

conduct with any degree of satisfaction. He, himself, upon a calm

review, did not approve of it; and he was sensible that it would be

censured by the feelings of every reader of humanity. It is probable

that his mind was so far irritated by the disagreeable preceding

events of this unfortunate day, and by the unexpected violence of the

Indians in the canoe, as to lose somewhat of that self-possession, by

which his character in general was eminently distinguished. Candour,

however, requires, that I should relate what he hath offered in

extenuation, not in defence, of the transaction; and this shall be

done in his own words. "These people certainly did not deserve death

for not choosing to confide in my promises, or not consenting to come

on board my boat, even if they had apprehended no danger. But the

nature of my service required me to obtain a knowledge of their

country, which I could no otherwise effect, than by forcing my way

into it in a hostile manner, or gaining admission through the

confidence and goodwill of the people. I had already tried the power

of presents without effect; and I was now prompted, by my desire to

avoid further hostilities, to get some of them on board, as the only

method left of convincing them, that we intended them no harm, and had

it in our power to contribute to their gratification and convenience.

Thus far my intentions certainly were not criminal; and though in the

contest, which I had not the least reason to expect, our victory might

have been complete without so great an expense of life; yet in such

situations, when the command to fire has been given, no man can

restrain its excess, or prescribe its effect."

Our voyagers were successful in conciliating the minds of the three

boys, to which Tupia particularly contributed. When their fears were

allayed, and their cheerfulness returned, they sang a song with a

degree of taste, that surprised the English gentlemen. The tune, like

those of our psalms, was solemn and slow, containing many notes and

semitones.

Some further attempts were made to establish an intercourse with the

natives, and Mr. Cook and his friends, on the 10th, went on shore for

that purpose; but being unsuccessful in their endeavours, they

resolved to re-embark lest their stay should embroil them in another

quarrel, and cost more of the Indians their lives. On the next day the

lieutenant weighed anchor, and stood away from this unfortunate and

inhospitable place. As it had not afforded a single article that was

wanted excepting wood, he gave it the name of Poverty Bay. By the

inhabitants it is called Taoneroa, or Long Sand. I shall not regularly

pursue the course of our commander round New Zealand. In this course

he spent nearly six months, and made large additions to the knowledge

of navigation and geography. By making almost the whole circuit of New

Zealand, he ascertained it to be two islands, with a strength of

evidence which no prejudice could gainsay or resist. He obtained

likewise a full acquaintance with the inhabitants of the different

parts of the country, with regard to whom it was clearly proved, that

they are eaters of human flesh. Omitting a number of minute

circumstances, I shall only select a few things which mark Mr. Cook's

personal conduct, and relate to his intercourse with the natives.

The good usage the three boys had met with, and the friendly and

generous manner in which they were dismissed to their own homes, had

some effect in softening the dispositions of the neighbouring Indians.

Several of them, who had come on board while the ship lay becalmed in

the afternoon, manifested every sign of friendship, and cordially

invited the English to go back to their old bay, or to a cove which

was not quite so far off. But Lieutenant Cook chose rather to

prosecute his discoveries, having reason to hope that he should find a

better harbour than any he had yet seen.

While the ship was, hauling round to the south end of a small island,

which the lieutenant had named Portland, from its very great

resemblance to Portland in the British Channel, she suddenly fell into

shoal water and broken ground. The soundings were never twice the

same, jumping at once from seven fathom to eleven. However, they were

always seven fathom or more; and in a short time the Endeavour got

clear of danger, and again sailed in deep water. While the ship was in

apparent distress, the inhabitants of the islands, who in vast numbers

sat on its white cliffs, and could not avoid perceiving some

appearance of confusion on board, and some irregularity in the working

of the vessel, were desirous of taking advantage of her critical

situation. Accordingly, five canoes full of men, and well armed, were

put off with the utmost expedition; and they came so near, and shewed

so hostile a disposition by shouting, brandishing their lances, and

using threatening gestures, that the lieutenant was in pain for his

small boat, which was still employed in sounding. By a musket which he

ordered to be fired over them, they were rather provoked than

intimidated. The firing of a four pounder loaded with grape shot,

though purposely discharged wide of them, produced a better effect.

Upon the report of the piece the Indians all rose up and shouted; but

instead of continuing the chase, they collected themselves together,

and, after a short consultation, went quietly away.

On the 14th of October, Lieutenant Cook having hoisted out his pinnace

and long boat to search for water, just as they were about to set off,

several boats full of the New Zealand people were seen coming from the

shore. After some time five of these boats, having on board between

eighty and ninety men, made towards the ship; and four more followed

at no great distance, as if to sustain the attack. When the first five

had gotten within about a hundred yards of the Endeavour, they began

to sing their war song, and brandishing their pikes, prepared for an

engagement. As the lieutenant was extremely desirous of avoiding the

unhappy necessity of using fire-arms against the natives, Tupia was

ordered to acquaint them that our voyagers had weapons which, like

thunder, would destroy them in a moment; that they would immediately

convince them of their power by directing their effect so that they

should not be hurt; but that if they persisted in any hostile attempt,

they would be exposed to the direct attack of these formidable

weapons. A four pounder, loaded with grape shot, was then fired wide

of them; and this expedient was fortunately attended with success. The

report, the flash, and above all the shot, which spread very far in

the water, terrified the Indians to such a degree, that they began to

paddle away with all their might. At the instance, however, of Tupia,

the people of one of the boats were induced to lay aside their arms,

and to come under the stern of the Endeavour; in consequence of which

they received a variety of presents.

On the next day a circumstance occurred, which shewed how ready one of

the inhabitants of New Zealand was to take an advantage of our

navigators. In a large armed canoe, which came boldly alongside of the

ship, was a man who had a black skin thrown over him, somewhat like

that of a bear. Mr. Cook being desirous of knowing to what animal it

originally belonged, offered the Indian for it a piece of red baize.

With this bargain he seemed to be greatly pleased, immediately pulling

off the skin, and holding it up in the boat. He would not, however,

part with it till he had the cloth in his possesssion; and as their

could be no transfer of property if equal caution should be exercised

on both sides, the lieutenant ordered the baize to be delivered into

his hands. Upon this, instead of sending up the skin, he began with

amazing coolness to pack up both that and the cloth, which he had

received as the purchase of it, in a basket: nor did he pay the least

regard to Mr. Cook's demand or remonstrances, but soon after put off

from the English vessel. Our commander was too generous to revenge

this insult by any act of severity.

During the course of a traffic which was carrying on for some fish,

little Tayeto, Tupia's boy, was placed among others over the ship's

side; to hand up what was purchased. While he was thus employed, one

of the New Zealanders, watching his opportunity, suddenly seized him

and dragged him into a canoe. Two of the natives then held him down in

the fore part of it, and the others, with great activity, paddled her

off with all possible celerity. An action so violent rendered it

indispensably necessary that the marines, who were in arms upon the

deck, should be ordered to fire. Though the shot was directed to that

part of the canoe which was furthest from the boy, and somewhat wide

of her, it being thought favourable rather to miss the rowers than to

run the hazard of hurting Tayeto, it happened that one man dropped.

This occasioned the Indians to quit their hold of the youth, who

instantly leaped into the water, and swam towards the ship. In the

meanwhile, the largest of the canoes pulled round and followed him;

and till some muskets and a great gun were fired at her, did not

desist from the pursuit. The ship being brought to, a boat was

lowered, and the poor boy was taken up unhurt. Some of the gentlemen,

who with their glasses traced the canoes to shore, agreed in asserting

that they saw three men carried up the beach, who appeared to be

either dead, or wholly disabled by their wounds.

While, on the 18th, the Endeavour lay abreast of a peninsula within

Portland Island, called Terakako, two of the natives, who were judged

to be chiefs, placed an extraordinary degree of confidence in Mr.

Cook. They were so well pleased with the kindness which had been shown

them in a visit to the ship, that they determined not to go on shore

till the next morning. This was a circumstance by no means agreeable

to the lieutenant, and he remonstrated against it; but as they

persisted in their resolution, he agreed to comply with it, provided

their servants were also taken on board, and their canoe hoisted into

the ship. The countenance of one of these two chiefs was the most open

and ingenuous that our commander had ever seen, so that he soon gave

up every suspicion of his entertaining any sinister design. When the

guests were put on shore the next morning, they expressed some

surprise at seeing themselves so far from their habitations.

On Monday the 23rd, while the ship was in Tagadoo Bay, Lieutenant Cook

went on shore to examine the watering-place, and found every thing

agreeable to his wishes. The boat landed in the cove, without the

least serf; the water was excellent, and conveniently situated: there

was plenty of wood close to the high water mark, and the disposition

of the people was as favourable in all respects as could be desired.

Early the next morning, our commander sent Lieutenant Gore to

superintend the cutting of wood and filling of water, with a

sufficient number of men for both purposes, and all the marines as a

guard. Soon after he went on shore himself, and continued there during

the whole day. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, who had landed on the same

day, found in their walks several things worthy of notice. As they

were advancing in some of the valleys, the hills on each side of which

were very steep, they were suddenly struck with the sight of an

extraordinary natural curiosity. It was a rock perforated through its

whole substance, so as to form a rude but stupendous arch or cavern,

opening directly to the sea. This aperture was seventy-five feet long,

twenty-seven broad, and five and forty feet high, commanding a view of

the bay and the hills on the other side, which were seen through it;

and opening at once upon the view, produced an effect far superior to

any of the contrivances of art.

When on the 28th the gentlemen of the Endeavour went on shore upon an

island which lies to the left hand of the entrance of Tolaga Bay, they

saw there the largest canoe they had yet met with; her length being

sixty-eight feet and a half, her breadth five feet, and her height

three feet six inches. In the same island was a larger house than any

they had hitherto seen; but it was in an unfinished state, and full of

chips.