having been instigated by the Dowager Empress and her sympathizers. No
one can visit the city without receiving some definite impression of
this wonderful woman, who for years has dominated all other
authority--violating traditions considered sacred, and ruling with an
imperious hand. For the Emperor only sympathy was felt. Of a refined,
sensitive nature, but not strong physically, he seems to be a man of
intelligence and of broad ideas. This was shown in 1898, when he
announced that he intended to rule as other emperors did--to visit
throughout his Empire; he even projected a railway journey to Tientsin
in September, and planned many innovations. This was accomplished in
conjunction with a few kindred spirits belonging to the so-called Reform
Party in China.
Soon after, the Empress seemingly acquiesced in the plan of reform, and
announced that she too was interested in progress; but, whether sincere
or not, erelong the tables were turned; six of the Emperor's advisers
were beheaded, and the seventh, an intimate friend of the Emperor,
advised in time, left the country. Then the Empress had the Emperor
confined, and she was proclaimed his successor; but the open
intervention of the Allied Powers caused him to be returned to the
throne. It is said that for ten years he has been an invalid. Can any
one wonder, knowing the constant espionage and continual opposition to
which he has been subjected? After two years' contemplating of the
beauties of the court, Emperor Kwang Su was married, very much against
his will, however (preferring another), to the niece of the Dowager
Empress, the beautiful Yohonola; her photograph proves this to be a true
statement. For her has been reserved the sad fate of remaining
childless, and, in consequence, she is kept in the background and rarely
ever mentioned. Tsze Hsi An is really one of the most remarkable women
in the world's history. Of very humble origin, and uneducated, she, on
the birth of her son, became the reigning Emperor's wife of the second
rank. At his death and also at the death of her superior, she became
regent during the minority of her son, and on his death violated
traditions (the law prohibiting succession to one of the same generation
as the dead ruler), and had the nephew of the deceased Emperor
proclaimed, she reigning as regent until his majority and virtually
thereafter.
[Illustration: _Emperor Kwangsu of China_]
Since 1900 the Empress has shown a desire to meet ladies of other
nationalities in audience, and an American woman who had lived
thirty-five years in Japan and China told me that the only thing
required was an official endorsement by the Secretary of State (if
American). Her failing health, however, during the past year caused an
entire cessation of social courtesies. A woman of remarkably strong
character, dominant will, and unscrupulous as to methods, she is the
most perfect example, in juxtaposition, of the masculine woman, as the
Emperor is of the feminine man.
We observed many things about the Chinese of to-day that point to
progress, however slow. The schools, for instance, are modelled on a
much broader basis; there is more independence in journalism; Chinese
athletics are also coming into vogue, where they were formerly held in
contempt; Young Men's Christian Associations flourish in various places,
and fine work is being done by the many foreign missionary
organizations. I heard much comment made concerning the American
missions; their work along educational lines and in the way of hospitals
was specially commended. Even Li Hung Chang, though a Confucian,
testified to their value, as have other prominent Manchus. The mission
movement in general is being regarded as a great sociological force
which, though working slowly, tends to a higher condition of life.
All the signs of the times indicate that China and the United States are
destined some day to come into closer relations with each other
socially, intellectually and of course commercially, as self-interest is
a great factor in the furtherance of any attitude. One of the means to
this end is the Chinese student in American colleges and schools; the
number is, however, very much smaller than in England, while five
thousand men are entered in Japanese colleges and schools, on account of
the nearer proximity of Japan and consequently the less expense.
Mention is constantly being made of the Reform Party in China, and hints
at revolution are even heard. On this point it is well to quote an
extract from "China and America of To-day." The authority says: "The
Chinese people have no right to legislation; they have no right of
self-taxation. They have not the power of voting out their rulers, or of
limiting or stopping their supplies; they have therefore the right of
rebellion. Rebellion is, in China, the old, often exercised, legitimate,
and constitutional means of stopping arbitrary and vicious legislation
and administration." Will it be necessary to resort to revolution in
order to effect needed reforms? Time alone will determine.
* * * * *
[Illustration: _The Dowager Empress of China_]
TIENTSIN, _May 26th_: We left Peking in the morning, and reached
Tientsin at 11 A.M., going to the Imperial Hotel, where we were to
remain two days. After luncheon we took a drive, first to the native
city. There remains of the old walls and two fine gateways, which stand
as reminders of an historic past, are to be seen. The street groups and
bazars were similar to those observed in other cities, but far less
interesting than those in Peking. The native city is said to number from
six hundred thousand to a million persons; and yet, so extended and
complete is the ground covered by the different foreign concessions,
numbering less than four thousand persons, that they virtually represent
the Tientsin of to-day; the British concession alone sets the tone to
the city, with its fine business blocks. In Memorial Hall, dedicated to
General Gordon, the municipal offices of the concession are located. The
fine Public Garden is the centre, three times a week, of a military band
concert, which attracts a large attendance and makes a brilliant scene,
with its myriad electric lights. This feature of Tientsin life was
introduced long ago by Viceroy Li Hung Chang, early in his term of
office (1870-1891); and he is said to have paid for the instruction of
the first military band. The building of the Industrial Association is
popularly called "pigs in clover," and we learned from actual
experience that the name was truly applied, as we had to make the long
weary round before we could secure an exit.
On Victoria Road there are many private residences, and an imposing
English Club edifice in the midst of large and attractive grounds.
The morning of the second day was devoted to incidental things; in the
afternoon we attended a Chinese theatre which was similar to the one we
had seen in Hong-Kong, only actors, who were grotesque acrobats, now
took the place of the previous ballet-dancers. In the evening we
attended a fine concert in the Public Gardens. The music was furnished
by the Cameron Guards in Highland costume. It was a fine opportunity to
see the English contingent, and from the Astor House across the way came
ladies in evening dress; hats and wraps were also in evidence; and, in
the rear, were files of soldiers of various nations from the different
concessions.
* * * * *
SHANHAIKWAN, _May 29th_: The following morning, we left for Shanhaikwan;
we arrived in the evening, and went to a very comfortable railway hotel.
The following morning, we made an excursion to the mountains and caught
a glimpse of the Great Wall a long distance off; in one direction a
valley; beyond that, hills; then mountains extending tier after tier,
until the last faded away in the distant horizon. This wall is a
continuation of the one visited in Peking, and formerly ended at the
sea-line in Shanhaikwan, but the ravages of time and the devastation of
man have carried away much of it.
[Illustration: _Gordon Hall at Tientsin_]
[Illustration: _Old gateway of Tientsin_]
We had left our chairs at a small place, said to be a Taoist temple, and
had also passed the ruins of another temple, showing the isolated places
selected by the early fathers for their centres of worship. After
roaming about, we returned to the first temple, and around an improvised
table, in plain view of the altar, we were served with a substantial
luncheon brought from the hotel. Our return trip was over a different
route, in order to secure a finer view of the Wall, some ruined towers,
and parapets.
Later, we passed through two imposing gateways, and noted the great
thickness of the Wall which, broken off, showed a brick exterior filled
with earth. The way through the native town assured us of the usual
Chinese life and bazars, Shanhaikwan having only a small European
population. It was the scene of much activity during the Boxer
Rebellion, and the regiments of several nations had posts or forts
there, the English and Japanese even now continuing to maintain a small
body-guard. In the afternoon we took a ride in a diminutive horse-car on
a narrow-gauge road to the sea, four miles distant, where we found a
sandy beach and bathhouses. This is a favorite resort for the Summer
guests of the Shanhaikwan Hotel. Peitaho, which is situated back of
Shanhaikwan in the mountains, has a large Summer colony from Peking and
Tientsin, many of whom own their homes. At Shanhaikwan we had the
pleasure of meeting Judge and Mrs. Charles Smith of Manila, and listened
to many interesting experiences connected with life in the Philippines.
Shanhaikwan is on the border between China and Manchuria.
We had been in Manchuria all day with an uninteresting landscape as
regards variety,--plains, a few trees, and a little verdure stretched
far away. Much of the land, however, was tilled, it being Springtime in
this far-away country; and an occasional group of trees indicated what
time and irrigation may accomplish in the way of agricultural results.
At every station armed soldiers were on guard. Various theories were
advanced to account for this; one said that brigands infested the
country; another claimed that there might be danger of destruction to
the track, this being the Southern Japanese-Manchurian Railway, which
was running through an alien country. The right to this road and a strip
of land each side of the track was secured by Japan either by treaty or
by lease from China at the close of the Russian-Japanese war. Chan Chow
was the largest station passed. Hsin Min was the scene of a conflict
between the Russians and Japanese, and at the present time soldiers are
still stationed there.
* * * * *
MUKDEN, _May 30th_: Our next point to be visited was Mukden. The trip
was not in our original itinerary, and we had some difficulty in
securing it, as the Director felt that we could not obtain good hotel
accommodations. We all, however, promised to accept uncomplainingly any
condition which the situation offered. Nevertheless, we felt a little
anxious about the result, as we were the first tourist party to invade
Mukden, the capital of Manchuria, and also the old capital when it was
an independent country and not, as now, a province.
At the King-jo Hotel, under Japanese management, we found six rooms
furnished in supposed European style; these opened on upper and lower
galleries and were comfortable. They really formed an annex in order to
entice stray European guests. The entire household was Japanese, without
any knowledge of the English language, so pantomime became our means of
communication, and there were many amusing mistakes made on both sides.
The utmost good-humor prevailed, however, and the atmosphere of the
place was altogether pleasant.
The morning following our arrival, we rode in jinrikishas to the tomb of
a Ming emperor. There are two of these tombs located at Mukden. We
visited only one; it is four miles from the city, and beautifully
located in a parklike enclosure. We entered at the side, through a long
avenue of trees, the front entrance never being opened; there were two
tall columns with grotesque figures of animals on top; then a lion on
each side, seated on heavy pedestals. A three-arched pailow had a very
massive carved cornice and entablature; on the cornice and on each
division of the arch were seated immense carved lions; similar ones were
also on the reverse side of the arch and on the ends, making ten in all,
and adding to the impressiveness of the whole.
We now entered the sacred avenue, lined on each side with ten large
stone animals. The path was much shorter than that visited in Nankow,
and the carving of the animals was less perfect. The avenue ended with a
gateway of three arches, which we did not pass through, but which
contained a memorial tablet mounted on a huge tortoise; beyond this
there was a long oblong building with an effective terrace roof; doors
were placed in each corner of the walled enclosure. At the back rose an
immense mound which covers the tomb. From a high tower overlooking the
mound, we had a view of the entire enclosure.
[Illustration: _The Temple at Mukden_]
The palace at Mukden is a large, imposing pile, built in 1631. There are
many different buildings, all in the peculiar Chinese style with
upturned eaves; these were barricaded while renovation was going on,
and we could obtain glimpses of the interior only through cracks in the
wall. The rooms were large and contained some wall decoration, while the
whole effect was fine, in spite of all the inconveniences experienced in
trying to see them; debris was everywhere. In one building the doors and
windows were sealed with paper strips placed over them; this was the
receptacle for valuable jewels and fine brocaded robes of royalty. We
were first refused admission, but, on our return from the rounds of the
palace, by some magical process (probably a large fee), a door was
opened, and we entered and saw a wonderful display of rich gems,
somewhat barbaric in style, fine swords, daggers, robes, and other
paraphernalia.
The bazars in Mukden were not unlike those throughout China in their
arrangement, but containing not nearly so attractive a display of goods.
The population seemed mixed, judging from the type of faces and from the
head-dress of the women, some of them having the plain, smooth
arrangement of the hair, while others followed the peculiar Manchu
style. Mukden owes its present celebrity to the Russian-Japanese war, as
several battles were fought around it.
* * * * *
_June 1st_: The following day, we took our departure for Niuchwang. We
had been told that our route would be over historic battlegrounds, and
we soon realized this, for, after leaving Mukden, we saw the monument
erected by the Japanese Government as a memorial to the memory of the
Japanese soldiers who fell in a desperate engagement, March 13th, 1905.
This was the battle of Shio-ho, one of the worst of the war. General
Kuropatkin headed the Russians, while Generals Kuroki and Nogi were on
the Japanese side. The Russians were vanquished and were forced to
retreat to Karpan. Later we came to a large place, formerly a Russian
city, Lara-yang, which was taken by the Japanese, and now seems in a
prosperous condition. A large rocky mountain, passed later on, was the
scene of a desperate attempt of the Japanese to dislodge the Russians,
and here eight thousand of the former lost their lives. At one point a
tall granite monument was raised to the memory of ten thousand Japanese
soldiers, all of which gave us a realizing sense of the horrors of the
conflict. Later, these warlike reminders ceased, and the landscape
showed broad, well-cultivated fields; indeed, the Manchuria of to-day,
as far as we could determine, seems a fertile plain; and while a coarser
cereal is now raised, it seemed possible that this might become a great
wheat-producing land with proper cultivation.
* * * * *
NIUCHWANG: When near Niuchwang, we came to the city of Shai-seng, and
saw the long lines of Russian barracks which are now occupied by the
Japanese. We reached our destination late in the evening, and had a
jinrikisha ride of over an hour before turning to the Central Hotel,
which had been greatly damaged by fire, but which we persuaded our
Director to select for us. Our surroundings were not luxurious, but a
fairly good dinner awaited us.
In the morning we had a delightful surprise. A call of the Director at
the English Club the evening previous had resulted in an invitation
extended to the entire party to breakfast at the residence of Mr. Henry
A. Bush, of Bush Brothers, a noted firm in the East. Never was an
invitation more gladly accepted. The mistress of the household was
absent, but Mr. Bush, aided by friends, did the honors to perfection. It
was a lovely home and full of good cheer. Two hours later we were sent
to the station in carriages, and escorted to a junction, nine miles
away, by a relative of the family. We learned afterward that this
courtesy was often extended to tourists since the burning of the hotel.
I am happy to state that both at Mukden and Niuchwang modern hotels will
be opened at an early date, both being named the Astor House, a favorite
appellation all through the East.
* * * * *
DALNY: The ride to Dalny (the Japanese wish it called Darien) ended at
nine in the evening; the scenery _en route_ was not unlike that of the
day previous, except that we observed a higher degree of cultivation,
and the plains were more extended, terminating in the distance in low
ranges of hills. We found Dalny modern in appearance, save in a few
large buildings which showed their early origin; the Russians had
planned the place as a model city before the war, which in time might
become a flourishing adjunct to Port Arthur. The city was evacuated
before the siege of Port Arthur, the Russians concentrating all their
strength at the latter point. Dalny is a port of some importance, but we
were told there was little local business to speak of. Tourists are
beginning to go there, as it is a convenient point to remain if one
wishes to visit Port Arthur, which is a long day's excursion, leaving
early in the morning and returning on an evening train. This has,
heretofore, been the customary plan of procedure, owing to superior
hotel facilities at Dalny; but a new hotel was nearly completed at Port
Arthur when we were there.
[Illustration: _Dalny_]
* * * * *
PORT ARTHUR, _June 4th_: We left early for a hard day's excursion to
Port Arthur. The standpoint of the tourist is that of interest and
curiosity to see the port which was so recently the scene of such
tragic events. With military knowledge, the interest would be more in
observing the strategic position and the methods of defence. Before
speaking of the incidents of the day, a brief outline of Port Arthur
will be given as a key to the situation. A view of the place from the
sea is disappointing, as the hills that circle around the bay are bare
and destitute of vegetation and foliage. The foothills of a long
mountain range divide the peninsula of Liao-tung (the circle of the
hills extending over ten miles); several bays also indent the shore.
Viewed from the land side, the town and port lie in an amphitheatre,
hidden from the sea by Golden Hill on one side and by the Tiger's Tail
Peninsula on the other. This strong position was fortified by the
Russians in the newest way.
The defence works are divided into coast and inland groups. The coast
section is the Golden Hill position, which stands at the left side of
the entrance to the harbor and commands the outer bay. From this hill,
toward the sea and to the north, making a semicircle, the line of
fortifications extends three miles, including many permanent works; the
first of these is called the Silver Hill group, and there are several
lines lying east and north of this. That group of forts on the left side
is named the Tiger's Tail Peninsula, and is as strong as Golden Hill on
the opposite side. The sea just outside of Tiger's Tail was the place
where the Japanese fleet attacked the Russian squadron at anchor.
Because of the vast strength of each of these two opposite points, and
their close communication and support, they have been considered the
strongest fortresses ever yet invested.
The city of Port Arthur is divided by Monument Hill into two parts, Old
or East Town, and New or West Town. The old town is the real Port
Arthur; the new one was formerly a Chinese hamlet, called
Tai-yo-ko,--the Russians building this section after its occupation. The
old is a business town; the new an official town. Here we have the
contrast of a European centre on one side with a Chinese on the other.
In the old town are situated the Port Admiralty, Navy Yard, Army
Hospital, Red Cross Hospital, Museum, and Fortress Office, formerly
General Stoessel's house. In the new town are the Governor General's
office and some civil administration buildings, a park, and numberless
residences.
On our arrival at Port Arthur, we took carriages, and, after securing a
permit, went to the Siege Museum, which is filled with the trophies of
war, and models of some of the forts that were taken; we examined these
carefully in order the better to understand the methods employed by the
Japanese in storming fortifications; tunnelling was the way in which
the North Fort was taken. The Siege Museum was interesting from another
point, as it had been the mess-house of the Russian officers of the
garrison, and the walls were covered with views of the Crimean and other
wars; there was also a large collection of pictures of Russian generals.
[Illustration: _Port Arthur before the siege_]
We then had a long drive to Monument Hill, which is situated between the
old and the new town near the railway station. It is a high point,
commanding the harbor and the forts, and one can obtain a bird's-eye
view of Port Arthur from its top. On account of its advantageous
position, General Nogi and Admiral Togo chose the hill for the mausoleum
and monument which are built in memory of those who lost their lives.
There are two peaks; the mausoleum is situated on one, the monument on
the other. The monument, two hundred feet high, was in process of
construction when we saw it; stones raised from the sunken ships formed
the principal material in building it. On the opposite peak, with a
torii in front, as an indication of the Shinto faith, is the mausoleum,
where the remains of 22,183 officers and soldiers have been buried with
formal ceremonies. It is impossible to convey an idea of the
impressiveness of the scene as we stood on this hill, gazing out on a
landscape significant of war and carnage on every side.
After luncheon at the almost completed new hotel, we had the roughest
ride I have ever taken--a long distance to the outskirts in order to
view some of the ruined forts--first, to East Keekwan, the name of a
group of defence works. The main fort here was so well defended that it
was considered unassailable from any direction; it was also very
strongly protected. The assault began on the 18th of August; there was
very stubborn resistance, and many attacks were necessary before General
Stoessel, on January 1st, proposed to surrender. As the Russians
retreated, however, they blew the fort up with dynamite. A scene of
desolation greeted us in consequence, and it was almost impossible to
walk across the debris.
We next visited another prominent work belonging to this group, called
North Fort, the one we had studied at the Museum in the morning, with
its intricate system of tunnels. These latter represented two shafts,
three feet high and two feet wide, each forty feet long with four
trenches; eight mines had been laid, and these were exploded on the 18th
of December, blowing away the rampart in the northeast and seriously
damaging the interior. A desperate resistance followed, but the Russians
finally retreated, destroying a part of the fort before they left. We
also saw other defences, but had no time to study them, as a long rough
drive ensued, in order to reach 203-Metre Hill, the scene of the last
engagement.
[Illustration: _Tiger-Tail Promontory and Port Arthur during the
conflict_]