are much valued for the exceeding grace and beauty of their foliage.
They should be put into very rich soil; and, like all other plants of
rapid growth, they will need copious supplies of water in dry weather.
In mild districts and on dry soils the plants may remain out all the
winter, under the protection of a heap of ashes. But, as a rule, it
will be necessary to store them in frames until spring; and they may be
finer in the second than in the first season.
Cineraria.—To insure a succession, and where a sufficient stock is not
already provided, another sowing should be made, following the method
advised last month. The seedlings, when transferred to small pots,
should be put into a close frame, and be sprinkled with water morning
and evening until the roots take hold. At first it is desirable to keep
them fairly warm, but in a fortnight the heat may be gradually reduced
and more air be given until cool treatment is reached. The plants will
need potting on up to November, when they should go into the final
size; and, except for special purposes, 6-1/4- or 7-1/2-inch pots are
large enough. Cinerarias are sought after by every pest which infests
the greenhouse. We need only say that by fumigation, sulphur, or by
syringing with a suitable insecticide, the plants must be kept clean,
or they cannot be healthy.
Daisy, Double.—The finest blooms are obtained from seedlings raised
annually, and the general practice is to sow in the open ground during
this month or July. When large enough transplant to good ground for
blooming in the following season. The new Giant forms of the Double
Daisy are of superb size, closely resembling finely shaped Asters in
form.
Dianthus.—For a display next summer, sow in drills drawn six inches
apart in an open situation, and cover the seed lightly with fine soil.
Shade the spot until the plants show.
Geranium.—Sometimes a difficulty is experienced in bringing Geranium
seedlings into flower. They possess so much initial vigour that the
production of wood continues to the very end of the season. Plants
which show signs of excessive growth should be put into the border
without removing the pots. This check to the roots will throw the
plants into luxuriant bloom.
Gladioli are very liable to injury by high wind, and stakes should be
put to them in good time. Each plant may have a separate support, and
this is the most perfect treatment; or the stakes may be at intervals,
or at the ends of rows, connected by lengths of strong, soft material,
to which intervening stems can be secured. The work should be done
carefully, and if the flowers are intended for exhibition they must
also be shaded by some means. This may be a cheap or a costly
proceeding; but in whatever manner it is carried out, security is
essential, or the whole bed may be ruined.
Hollyhock.—A sowing in the open ground will produce plants for
wintering in the cold frame; and if generously treated, they will make
a fine show in the following year.
Myosotis.—During this month sow Sutton’s Pot Myosotis and bring forward
in a cold frame for winter decoration, for which purpose this plant is
rapidly increasing in favour. Seed of the hardy varieties may also be
sown now or in July, choosing a shady spot in the open ground.
Transplant when large enough.
Nicotiana.—To expose Tobacco plants before warm weather is established
will give them a check from which they may not recover until the summer
is half over, if they recover at all. Spare frames with movable lights
will prepare them admirably and save labour. The second week of this
month is generally warm enough for the planting. The seedlings must
have a very rich soil, and abundance of water in dry weather. A heavy
mulch of decayed manure will supply them with food and check
evaporation.
Pansy.—From the end of May to the end of July seedlings may be raised
in the open ground. Thin and transplant when ready.
Polyanthus to be sown from May to July on a shaded border. Thin the
seedlings boldly, and bed the thinnings. Those raised early will flower
next spring, but the later seedlings cannot be depended on for blooming
in the first year.
Portulaca.—The weather may have been too cold and wet for sowing in
May, or seed then sown may have failed; happily, there is yet ample
time for raising this flower, in either beds or pots.
Primrose.—This fine old favourite may be grown from seed in various
tints of yellow and almost any shade of colour from white to deep
crimson; an effective blue has also been achieved. Primroses make
beautiful pot and border flowers. Seed may be sown from May to July.
Seed-pans can be used, or the sowing may be made in drills in the open.
In the latter case, a free dressing of soot must be employed to render
the spot distasteful to slugs. When transplanting, give the plants a
deep retentive loam if possible, and a shady position.
Primula.—To insure a succession of flowers next spring, make another
sowing as advised under May. Seedlings which are ready should be got
into small pots, and afterwards they must be re-potted when necessary;
but never shift them until the pots are full of roots, and always put
them in firmly up to the collar.
Solanum.—The berried varieties may be grown entirely in pots, or they
can be put into beds for the summer, from which they will lift for
potting again just as the handsome berries are turning colour. The
spiny-leaved varieties are valuable for sub-tropical gardening. Small
plants are of little worth, hence they should be put into very rich
soil, with a thick layer of manure on the surface, and have copious
supplies of water to induce free growth.
Stock, Spring-flowering.—This valuable section, which includes the
popular Brompton strain, usually comes into bloom in May and June. Seed
is sometimes sown where the plants are to flower, but a certain degree
of risk attends this mode of procedure, and Spring-flowering Stocks are
so valuable that they are worth more careful treatment. Either now or
in July sow in pans, and place them under shelter until the plants are
an inch high; then stand them in the open for a week before planting
out.
Stock, Winter-flowering.—For their refreshing colours and delightful
perfume Stocks are highly prized during the winter months. To have them
in flower at Christmas, seed of Christmas Pink or Beauty of Nice should
be sown in June. It is usual to grow three or more plants in a pot,
according to size. At the fall of the year place them in the
conservatory or a cool greenhouse, and give assistance in the form of
weak liquid manure as soon as the buds appear. Other suitable
varieties, of which there are a number, may be sown in July or August
for flowering indoors through the winter and spring months.
Wallflower.—If no seed was sown in May the task ought not to be
neglected this month.
Zinnia.—The first week of June is about the right time to bed Zinnias,
and there are three facts to be borne in mind concerning them. They do
not transplant well, and therefore a showery day should, if possible,
be selected for moving them. In the absence of rain, be liberal with
water. They are very brittle, and should have a position somewhat
sheltered from the full force of the wind; and as they revel in
sunshine, the more roasting the season the finer will be the flowers.
JULY
Antirrhinum.—A sowing in drills during the present month or August will
supply plants for flowering next year. Transfer direct from the
seed-bed to the positions where they are intended to bloom.
Calceolaria.—If more plants are wanted, sow again. Among the seedlings
which we left last month just as they had been pricked off, it will
soon be evident that there is a wide difference between the strength of
the plants. As a rule, the most robust are those in which yellow
largely predominates. These make bright and showy decorative plants,
but the colours that are especially valued by florists will probably
come from the seedlings which are weakly in the early stage. Hence
these should be specially prized, and under skilful management they may
be grown into grand specimens. The thumb pots for Calceolarias need
careful preparation with crocks covered with clean moss or vegetable
fibre, and they must be filled with rich porous compost. Transfer the
plants with extreme care, and place them in a sheltered part of the
greenhouse or in a shaded frame, allowing free access of air on the
leeward side. If aphis has to be dealt with—and it is very partial to
Calceolarias—fumigation is the best remedy. Choose a quiet evening for
the operation; on the following day carefully water the plants and
shade them from the sun.
Campanula.—The perennial varieties may still be sown, either in pans or
in the open. Give them a good light soil, and do not stint the supply
of water.
Cyclamens which are forward enough should be shifted into 48-sized
pots. Follow up the process until all are re-potted.
Lobelia.—In pots or pans sow seed of the perennial varieties to provide
plants for the borders next year. Pot off singly when ready, and
protect in a cold frame through the winter.
Mimulus sown in the open ground will flower in the following spring. If
possible, make the seed-bed in a moist retentive soil and in a shaded
situation.
Primula.—To force the growth of this plant is to ruin it. The most
satisfactory results are invariably obtained from specimens which have
matured slowly, and have been treated as nearly hardy after the
seedling stage. From this month up to the middle of September it will
be quite safe to expose them freely, day and night, except in inclement
weather. Even in the winter protection is only needed from frost, damp,
and keen winds.
AUGUST
Annuals and Biennials, Hardy.—In the majority of English gardens the
spring display of bulbous flowers is too often followed by a dreary
blank, which is almost unredeemed by a touch of colour, except that
afforded by the late Tulips and a few other flowers which are
relatively unimportant. The brilliance of the Crocuses, Hyacinths, and
early Tulips serves to throw into relief the comparative barrenness
which follows. And the contrast is rendered all the more striking by
the cheerful spring days. It is at this juncture that annuals and
biennials from summer or early autumn sowings light up the garden with
welcome masses and bands of fresh and vivid colouring. They are then so
valuable that it is surprising they are not more commonly grown,
especially as the cost of seed is very trifling. Even the transitory
character of some of them is an element in their favour, for they do
not interfere with the summer bedding arrangements. Such flowers as
Pansy and Viola, however, produce a long-continued show of bloom.
The following list contains the varieties which are best adapted for
the purpose:—
Alyssum, Sweet
Antirrhinum
Asperula azurea setosa
Calandrinia umbellata
Calendula officinalis fl. pl.
Candytuft
Cheiranthus Allionii
Chrysanthemum, Morning Star
Chrysanthemum, Evening Star
Chrysanthemum inodorum plenissimum
Chrysanthemum segetum gr.
Clarkia
Collinsia
Coreopsis
Cornflower
Erysimum
Eschscholtzia
Gilia tricolor
Godetia
Iceland Poppy
Larkspur, dwarf rocket
Leptosiphon
Limnanthes Douglasii
Linaria, pink
Nemophila
Nigella, Miss Jekyll
Papaver glaucum
Phacelia tanacetifolia
Poppy, Shirley
Saponaria calabrica
Scabious
Silene
Sweet Sultan
Venus’ Looking-glass, purple
Virginian Stock
Viscaria
Whitlavia
Sow thinly, not later than the middle of the month in cold districts,
but September will be early enough in the Southern counties. Drills are
preferable to broadcasting, because the beds are more easily weeded and
kept in order. Thin the rows early, so that the plants may become stout
and hard before winter overtakes them. Early in the new year
transplanting must be resorted to during open weather if the plants are
to be flowered in heavy soil; but on light, rich land, sow where they
are intended to bloom.
Annuals under Glass.—The flowers available for winter and spring
blooming are naturally few in number compared with those which fill
gardens and conservatories during the summer months. But it is not
generally realised that several favourite outdoor annuals are as
serviceable for flowering under glass in the short days of the year as
they are for growing in the open ground in summer, and they are the
more valuable for winter and spring use as no elaborate system of
cultivation is needed. Any greenhouse or conservatory from which frost
can be excluded will grow these annuals well. Seed should be sown in
August or September, in pots or pans placed in a cool house or frame.
When the seedlings have made some progress, prick them off into the
pots in which they are wanted to flower, and grow steadily on, bearing
in mind always that the most important point is to keep the plants as
hardy as possible by giving air at every favourable opportunity. The
following varieties are especially suitable for winter and spring
flowering under glass:—Alonsoa; The Star and Dunnettii varieties of
Annual Chrysanthemum; Clarkia elegans; Dimorphotheca; Gypsophila
elegans; Linaria; Nemesia Suttoni; Nicotiana, Miniature White and N.
affinis; Phlox, Purity; Salpiglossis; and Swan River Daisy.
Asters for indoor decoration should now be lifted from beds or borders
and potted. It is worth a little trouble to accomplish the task with
the least possible injury or disturbance to the roots. Light soils
should have a good soaking of water on the previous evening, to prevent
the mould from crumbling away.
Carnation.—Seed may still be sown as advised in April; but to carry the
plants safely through the winter it is necessary to have them strong
before cold weather sets in.
Chionodoxa can be forced with the same ease as Roman Hyacinths. A
48-sized pot will accommodate several bulbs.
Cinerarias are frequently placed in the open during this month and
September, and as it tends to impart a hardy constitution, the practice
is to be commended. A north border under a wall will suit them, but the
proximity of a hedge should be avoided. Before the plants are put out
see that they are quite clean, or it may be necessary to restore them
to the house in order to rid them of some troublesome pest.
Clarkia.—The varieties of the Elegans class make very handsome pot
plants, and to insure the requisite number seed must be sown in
well-drained pots during this month or early in September.
Cyclamen.—Where Cyclamens are extensively grown it is usual to make the
first sowing in August, and many gardeners regard this as the most
important period for securing healthy young seedlings. A common mistake
with beginners is to raise them in too high a temperature. On this and
other points useful suggestions will be found in the article commencing
on page 256.
Dianthus.—Either now or a little later transfer seedlings to flowering
quarters, and if possible put them into sandy loam in a sunny spot.
Freesia.—Few and simple are the conditions necessary to the well-being
of this beautiful and delicately scented flower. The fine specimens to
be seen occasionally in cottagers’ windows in the Isle of Wight attest
the ease with which it can be grown in a congenial atmosphere. The
bulbs are exceedingly small in proportion to the flowers, and the
rootlets are so fragile that potting on is to be avoided. A 48-sized
pot will hold five or six bulbs, and the soil should consist largely of
decaying vegetable fibre, such as peat, leaf-mould, and turfy loam. The
pots can be stood in any sheltered position out of doors, under a
covering of cocoa-nut fibre or other light material, until the foliage
begins to grow.
Geranium.—A sowing in August will supply plants for flowering next
summer, and the directions given in February are suitable, save that
heat can now be dispensed with. These late seedlings will need more
care to carry them through the winter than plants raised earlier in the
year.
Gerbera.—These charming flowers make admirable subjects for the
greenhouse and conservatory, and an excellent display may also be
obtained outdoors if a sunny well-drained part of the garden be
selected for the plants. August is the best month for sowing seed.
Plants required for indoor blooming should be potted on as may become
necessary. Those for the open ground must be thoroughly hardened off
for planting out in the early summer of the succeeding year.
Hyacinths, Italian and Roman.—Obtain the bulbs as early as possible,
and pot them promptly. Place them in any spare corner of the open
ground, where they can be covered with cocoa-nut fibre or leaf-mould
until the roots are formed. A child can grow these flowers; and they
should be largely employed for bouquets and for indoor decoration
during the dark winter days.
Mignonette.—For winter flowering sow in 48-or 32-sized pots, filled
with light rich soil. Put the seed in little groups, thin to three or
five plants in each pot, and give them the benefit of full daylight
close to the glass. When flowering commences do not allow seed to form.
If the spikes which have passed the heyday of perfection are cut off,
the plants will break again and flower a second time.
Narcissi.—The first potting of early varieties is made this month as
soon as the bulbs can be obtained.
Pelargonium.—The remarks under Geranium apply to this flower also.
Picotee.—Follow the instructions given for Carnation.
Schizanthus.—To do full justice to this flower seed should be sown now
for plants to be kept through the winter in any house which is
sufficiently warm to exclude frost.
Scilla præcox, or sibirica.—The treatment which suits Roman Hyacinths
will answer for this bulb also, when required for flowering indoors.
The two form an admirable harmony in blue and white.
Silene.—All the most useful varieties of Catchfly are hardy against
cold, but not entirely so against damp. They possess a special value
for their sparkling appearance in spring. Sow in light sandy soil, in
which they will pass the winter safely. On a heavy loam the
transplanting system must be resorted to in February or March.
Stock, Intermediate.—This section is valuable for indoor decoration in
spring. No artificial heat is necessary to raise the seed; in fact, it
is not wise to employ it. Either in this month or early in September
sow the required number of pots and plunge them in ashes in a frame
until March. Thin the seedlings to three in each pot. Before flowering,
a rich top-dressing will be beneficial; and manure water—weak at first,
but stronger by degrees—will intensify the colours.
Stock, Spring-flowering.—A bed prepared under trees or shrubs will
afford some shelter from winter frost. Make it thoroughly rich, and in
it plant the seedlings. Should the growth be very rapid in September,
the plants will probably become too succulent to endure the stress of
winter. If so, lift them and plant again on the same spot.
Sweet Pea.—The modern culture of this delightful flower includes deep
trenching and the liberal use of manure. Those who intend to sow during
September in the open must get the trenched ground into perfect order
early in the present month. The details are important and are fully
described in the article commencing on page 303.
SEPTEMBER
Agapanthus taxes the soil severely, and must have ample nourishment in
pots. It is also one of the thirstiest bulbs known, but is quite hardy,
and will thrive in the open if planted in a deep rich loam at any time
from September until March.
Alstroemeria.—Although related to the Ixia, this bulb may be trusted to
the open ground in all but the coldest districts of the country. It is
not suitable for pot culture, but in a dry border it may be allowed to
remain undisturbed for years. Plant quite nine inches deep.
Amaryllis.—The proper time to commence operations with these superb
flowers is during their season of rest, which ranges from September to
March. Pot them in firm loam, enriched with leaf-mould, and containing
a fair proportion of sand. Very little water is required until growth
begins, and then it must be increased with the progress of the plant.
Start them by plunging the pots in a temperature of about 65°, and when
they are coming into bloom, remove to a warm greenhouse or
conservatory. After the flowers have faded, allow the plants to
complete their growth, and then slowly reduce them to a resting
condition without permitting the bulbs at any time to become quite dry.
Anemone.—The tuberous varieties are valuable as pot plants, not only
for their flowers, but also for the distinctive character of the
foliage. The roots may be potted from now up to the end of the year, so
that a succession of flowers can be easily insured. When plunged in a
pit or frame to preserve them from frost, watering is all the attention
they will need, but of this there must be plenty, particularly when the
plants begin to flower. Pot the roots between one and two inches deep,
in rich soil, and with the eyes upwards. A large pot will accommodate
several roots.
Babiana.—Treat in the same manner as the Ixia.
Begonia, Tuberous-rooted.—Lift the plants which are in the open ground,
and pot them to complete their season in the greenhouse; but if they
are not wanted for this purpose, they may remain in the beds until
October. When the stems fall, still retain the bulbs in their own pots,
and store them in a dry cellar or shed, under a layer of cocoa-nut
fibre. They need protection from both damp and cold. Neither hurry the
drying off of the roots, nor attempt to force the growth in spring, but
wait until they start naturally.
Calceolarias ought now to be in large 60-pots, placed close to the
glass to insure a dwarf habit. During sharp weather they may be taken
down, but should be restored immediately the danger is past. Much heat
in winter will be injurious; a range of 45° to 55° should be considered
the limits of variation in temperature. Pot the plants on as growth
demands.
Crocus.—For indoor decoration, two or three separate lots should be
potted at intervals of a fortnight; and the named varieties are worth
this mode of treatment, both for the size of their flowers and for the
exceptional brightness and diversity of their colours. Use a light rich
soil, and put six to eight corms in a 48-sized pot. They may also be
grown in quantity in large seed-pans or in shallow boxes. When coming
into flower, the roots may be freed from soil to facilitate the packing
into ornamental baskets or vases.
Crown Imperial.—This bulb requires a rich loamy soil and an open
position to bring it to perfection. Still, it will flower
satisfactorily in a shrubbery, or under the shade of trees; and, so far
as the roots are concerned, there is no occasion to divide them more
than once in three seasons. Plant during this month, and on to the
beginning of November.
Cyclamens in pots will pay for an occasional dose of weak manure water.
Shut the plants up in good time on chilly evenings. If a sowing of seed
was not made last month it should be put in without delay.
The hardy varieties, such as _C. europœum_ and _C. Coum_, are
cultivated out of doors; and in some of the warmer districts of the
South of England the Persian varieties can also be successfully grown
in the open. They are suitable for rockwork, or for little nooks and
sheltered corners, in which some gardens abound. For their success good
drainage, a warm position, and plenty of water in dry weather are
essential. September and October are the best months for planting out.
Dog’s-tooth Violet.—For small beds, or in front of a rockery, these
compact and interesting little plants are valuable for spring
flowering, and are worth cultivating for their foliage alone. They also
succeed in pots, and thrive in peat, or in sandy loam and leaf-mould. A
48-sized pot will accommodate five bulbs.
Freesia.—Towards the end of the month these bulbs will be ready for
removal to a cool greenhouse or cold pit. No heat is required—merely
protection from frost and excessive moisture. The stems are so slender
that support must be given early. As the plants do not bear re-potting,
the danger of exhausted soil can be met by administering weak manure
water occasionally.
Fritillarias belong to the same order as the Crown Imperial, and the
conditions which suit that plant will answer for all the Fritillarias.
The bulbs thrive in a deep loam, and they are quite hardy.