now only to consider the question of planting, and no better time can
be chosen than the beginning of April. Some eminent growers are at the
trouble of taking out the soil with a trowel for each bulb. In the
opening, a bed of sand and wood-ashes or powdered charcoal is made, on
which the root is placed. Others lay them in deep drills, partly filled
with a similar light mixture. Whichever method is adopted, the crown of
the corm should be left about four inches beneath the surface. The
distance between them may vary from twelve to eighteen inches, and the
greater space is a distinct advantage when attending to the plants
subsequently. The same rules apply to the planting of clumps.
Kochia trichophylla.—Sow seed where the plants are to stand, or in a
prepared bed from which they can be transferred to make clumps, lines,
or single specimens where the attractive foliage will be most
effective.
Lobelia.—Early in the month transfer the seedlings to pans or boxes,
but the latter are preferable. Not a single flower should be allowed to
show until the plants are established in the open ground. Although
Lobelias are very attractive in pots, they cannot be satisfactorily
grown in them, with the exception of the _ramosa_ varieties. But the
object is easily attained by potting plants from a reserve bed after
they have developed into good tufts. From a stiff soil they can be
lifted and potted with facility; and a light soil will cause no
difficulty if the bed be soaked a short time in advance. After potting,
the plants will give no trouble, except to supply them with water.
Marigolds can be raised in a cold frame, and towards the end of the
month there will be no risk in sowing in the open ground. The plants
thrive in a sunny position, even in scorching seasons.
Marvel of Peru.—If not sown last month, there is no time to lose; and
with a little care seed can now be germinated without artificial heat.
When the plants come to be transferred to the open, put them, if
possible, in sandy loam, exposed to full sunshine.
Mignonette.—Successional sowings may be made up to the end of June.
Give each plant plenty of room. By removing the seed-pods as fast as
they are formed flowering is greatly prolonged.
Nasturtium.—Both dwarf and tall varieties are usually treated as hardy
annuals, with the exception of the date of sowing. None of the
Nasturtiums are quite hardy, and if sown in March the plants are liable
to destruction by late frosts. It is therefore usual to sow in April or
May, according to the district, and the growth is so rapid that the
plants are full of bloom before the summer has far advanced. Sow on
poor soil always.
The _Tropæolum canariense_ (Canary Creeper) may be raised in pans from
a March sowing for planting out in May, or seed can be sown in the open
during April.
Petunia.—- Plants from the first sowing will be ready for small pots,
and they must be kept going until the 48-or 32-size is reached. All
Petunias rebel if root-bound, and the double varieties are especially
impatient in this respect. After each transfer give them a sheltered,
shady position and attention with water until they start again. Good
drainage and careful ventilation are essential, or the foliage will
lose colour. Seedlings intended for beds may be transferred direct from
the seed-pans into 60-sized pots.
Picotee and Pink.—See the culture prescribed for Carnation.
Ricinus.—At quite the end of the month or the beginning of May, seed
put into the open ground will produce splendid specimens if treated
with a lavish hand. Take out the soil for a depth of eighteen inches or
two feet, and fill the space to within three inches of the surface with
a mixture of rich soil and well-decayed manure. Upon each bed thus made
place three Ricinus beans in a triangle, and when they are up, thin to
one plant at each station, and this, of course, the strongest. This
mode of growing Ricinus will astonish those who have been accustomed to
allow the plant to struggle through existence in the ordinary soil of a
garden border. Plentiful supplies of water must be given in dry
weather, and stakes will be necessary to save the specimens from injury
by wind. It is too early for putting out those raised in heat.
Stock, Ten-week.—Where the requisite quantity of seed has not been
sown, it must be done promptly. If there happens to be a cold frame on
a spent hot-bed to spare, it will exactly suit the seedlings when they
are ready for transferring. Make the surface fresh by adding a little
rich soil, and put the plants in rows three or four inches apart,
allowing three inches between them in the rows. In seed-pans, however,
space cannot be afforded in this liberal fashion, but they will make a
full return for rather more than the usual spacing. To maintain a dwarf
habit, it is imperative that the plants should be kept near the glass.
Where there are no facilities for growing Stocks in the manner
described seed may be sown at the end of the month in the open ground,
and with a little care there will be a handsome show of bloom. The
seedlings are subject to the attacks of turnip fly, which is a terrible
foe to them in the seed-leaf stage; in fact, the plants are sometimes
up and gone before danger is suspected. A light sprinkling of water,
followed immediately by a dusting of wood-ashes, just as they are
coming through, will save them, but it may be necessary to repeat the
operation two or three times until they are out of peril. A rich and
friable seed-bed is one remedy for the fly, for it promotes rapid
growth, which speedily places the plant beyond the power of its insect
adversary. But if open-ground culture exposes Stocks to one hazard, it
saves them from another, as mildew does not attack them unless they
have been transplanted. Stocks come so true from seed that it is easy
to arrange a design in any desired colours. Sow in drills from nine to
fifteen inches apart, according to the height of the variety, and cover
the seed very lightly with fine soil. The bed must be protected from
birds, and a dressing of soot will keep off slugs. Begin to thin the
plants early, but do not forget that some single specimens will have to
be taken out when the flowers show, and that is the time for the final
thinning.
Sunflowers do not well bear transplanting, hence the seed should be
sown where the plants are intended to flower. During its brief season
of growth, the Sunflower taxes the soil very severely, and to develop
its full proportions decayed manure must be freely employed to a good
depth, and unstinted supplies of water will be necessary in dry
weather.
Zinnia.—- The first week of this month is as good a time as any to sow
seed, and the conditions named under March should be followed. When the
seedlings are an inch high, pot them separately, and place in a close,
shaded frame until they are established. Then give air more and more
freely while the plants are being trained to bear full exposure.
MAY
This is the chief month for bedding, and the crowded state of pits and
houses creates a natural anxiety to push forward the work; yet the
exercise of a little patience may save many a valuable lot of plants
from being injured past recovery. Although the days are long, and
perhaps sunny, the nights are often treacherous, especially in the
early part of the month. The first business is to prepare the plants
gradually for transfer to the open ground by free exposure whenever
there is a favourable opportunity. Take off the lights on genial days,
and by degrees open them at night, until they can be dispensed with
altogether. About the second week of the month it will generally be
safe to put the most hardy subjects on a bed of ashes, under the
shelter of a hedge or wall, before planting them. Begin with
Antirrhinum, Dianthus, Phlox Drummondii, Stock, and Verbena. A little
later on, others which are rather more delicate, as, for instance,
Balsam, Begonia, Dahlia, Petunia, Zinnia, &c., can be treated in the
same way, until the great bulk of them are in final quarters.
Sub-tropical plants, such as Nicotiana, Ricinus, Solanum, and Wigandia,
had better be kept under control till the first or second week of June.
Annuals.—There is still an opportunity of sowing many varieties, and
also to make further sowings of others that are already showing signs
of promise. The practice of insuring a succession of all flowers much
in demand for vases, of which Sweet Peas are an example, is on the
increase, and deserves to be further extended. Another point is that
many annuals which require heat in earlier months may with confidence
be sown during May in the open ground.
Hardy Biennials and Perennials.—Seed of many favourite biennials and
perennials may be safely sown in the open ground during May, June, and
July, and as a general rule the finest plants for flowering in the
following season are obtained from the earliest sowings. The bed for
the seed should be prepared with care and a friable loam is the best
for the purpose. Immediately the seedlings are large enough to handle,
transplant to small rich nursery beds and shift to flowering positions
in the autumn. A number of these subjects are dealt with individually
in the calendars for the months named, and others which are suitable
for the purpose are:
Anchusa italica
Aster sub-cæruleus
Aubrietia
Candytuft (Iberis)
Cheiranthus Allionii
Chrysanthemum leucanthemum
Coreopsis grandiflora
Cynoglossum
Digitalis
Gaillardia
Galega officinalis
Gaura Lindheimeri
Geum
Gypsophila paniculata
Heuchera
Lupinus
Cenothera
Poppy, perennial
Pyrethrum
Saxifrage
Thalictrum
Verbascum
Viola
Antirrhinum is admirably adapted for a dry and sunny position, in which
it will thrive and flower freely.
Balsam.—Towards the middle of the month a final sowing may be made with
safety in the open ground. Former seedlings will need potting on until
they reach the eight-inch size, and at each transfer put the plants in
rather deeper than before; this encourages the growth of roots from the
stems. While increasing the pot-room not a bud will show; but
immediately the roots are checked by the pots, flowering will commence.
The old method of stopping and disbudding not only spoiled the plants,
but robbed them of the finest flowers, which are invariably produced on
the main stem. Since the natural method of growing Balsams has been in
favour it is usual to see grand specimens covered with immense flowers.
Campanula.—The hardy perennial varieties may be sown in the open during
the present month to provide seedlings for transplanting to flowering
positions in autumn. Should there be any good reason for delay it will
not be too late to sow in June or July, but the finest specimens are
generally produced from May sowings. The best results can always be
obtained by raising the required number annually and discarding the
plants after they have flowered in the following season.
Cineraria.—Those who care to have Cinerarias in bloom during November
and December may do so from a sowing made at the beginning of April,
but it is not usual to start so early. Our own practice is to sow
twice, during the present month and again in June, to insure a
succession. From this month’s sowings we look for our finest plants.
The Cineraria is easy to raise and to grow, but it will by no means
take care of itself. It has so many enemies that unusual vigilance is
necessary to flower it to perfection. It thrives in a compost of turfy
loam, with a little leaf-mould added; but the soil should not be
over-rich, or there will be much foliage and few flowers. Still, as the
plant is a rapid grower, it must not be starved, neither must it suffer
for lack of water. Pots or pans may be employed for the seed; and as
the young plants grow freely, they may go straight to thumb pots
without the usual intermediate stage of pricking off.
Coleus should be finally shifted into 48-sized pots. If signs of
decline become manifest, weak liquid manure water given occasionally
will revive the plants and intensify their colours. During the summer
any ordinary greenhouse or conservatory will suit them, provided they
are shaded from fierce sunshine.
Cyclamen.—The strongest seedlings should now be ready for 60-sized
pots. Abundant but judicious ventilation, plenty of water, and freedom
from aphis, are the conditions to be secured.
Dahlia.—Make the ground on which this flower is to be planted
thoroughly rich. It is a rapid grower, and cannot attain to fine
proportions on a poor soil. If the plants are carefully prepared for
the change by free exposure on genial days, and also during warm
nights, they will scarcely feel the removal. When first put out, dress
the surrounding soil with soot to prevent injury by slugs, which show a
decided partiality for newly planted Dahlias. Give water freely when
requisite, and in staking the plants take care that the ties do not cut
the branches. These ties will require attention occasionally during the
summer and autumn.
Delphinium.—Sow the perennial varieties on a prepared bed. Thin early,
without removing all the weaker seedlings, and when sufficiently
advanced to bear removal, transfer to borders where the plants are to
flower.
Hollyhocks may be put into the borders when the weather is quite warm.
Wait until the end of the month, or even the beginning of June, rather
than have them nipped by an untimely frost. Like the Dahlia this plant
must have unstinted supplies of water and abundance of manure. A tall
stake, firmly fixed, will also be necessary for each plant.
Nicotiana.—Seed may be sown on an open, sunny border, but it is a waste
of seed and labour to put it into poor soil. Prepare the ground
beforehand by deep digging, and by incorporating plenty of manure. If
the near presence of other plants renders this impossible, drive a bar
into the soil and work a good-sized hole. Fill it with rich stuff to
within a few inches of the surface, and finish with fine soil, on which
sow the seed. This method can only be adopted for light land. In the
event of a cutting east wind after the seedlings are up, improvise some
kind of shelter until the danger is past.
Petunias are very sensitive under a frost or cold wind. Therefore be in
no hurry to bed the plants until quite the end of the month or
beginning of June, especially if the weather appears to be at all
threatening. A good mellow soil, free of recent manure, suits them. If
unduly rich, it will strengthen the foliage at the expense of the
flowers, and will also postpone the blooming until late in the season.
Portulaca.—It is useless to sow until the temperature is summerlike. If
necessary, wait until the close of the month, or longer, before putting
in the seed. This flower will endure neither a moist atmosphere nor a
retentive soil. Sow on raised beds of light soil, the more sandy the
better; and in seasons which speedily burn the life out of other
plants, Portulacas will display their beauty, no matter how fiercely
the sun may beat upon them. Water will occasionally be necessary, but
it should never be given until there is obvious need for it. Portulacas
are easily grown in pots or window-boxes, and they will bloom profusely
where many other flowers only wither and die.
Primula.—Almost every season witnesses the advent of some novelty in
this flower, either in colour or in form. And the plant is now worth
growing for the beauty and diversity of its foliage alone. The flowers
range from pure white through all shades of tender rose up to a deep,
rich crimson. After years of earnest effort, two beautiful blue flowers
have been obtained. There are also several elegant double strains, and
these possess a special value for bouquets, because of their enduring
quality. All the varieties, including the popular Star Primulas, can be
grown with ease in any soil which is fairly rich and friable. Equal
parts of leaf-mould and loam, with a little sand, will suit them to
perfection. Fill the pots firmly, taking precautions to insure
effective drainage. A thin layer of silver sand sifted over the soil
will aid an even sowing by showing up the seed. As a finish, shake over
just enough fine soil to hide the sand. Thin sowing is important,
because the most reliable new seed is almost certain to germinate at
intervals, and the plants which come first can then be lifted without
imperilling the remainder. Prick off as fast as ready round the edges
of small pots, and shade until established. Then give air more and more
freely.
Stock, Ten-week.—The preparation of the soil is the first business, and
whether the Stocks are intended to be grown in small groups or alone in
beds, the treatment should be the same in either case. With light land
there is no difficulty; it is only needful to dig it well, and to
incorporate a sufficient quantity of decayed manure. If disposed to
incur a little extra trouble to give the plants a start, take out some
soil with a trowel, and fill the hole with compost from the potting
shed. This course is indispensable on heavy land; and assuming it to be
rich enough, the quickest and most effectual way is to make drills six
inches deep at the proper distances, and nearly fill them with prepared
soil, in which the Stocks can be planted. For a short time afterwards
provide shelter from the midday sun, but do not keep them covered a
moment longer than is necessary. In planting it must not be forgotten
that an uncertain proportion of single specimens will have to come out.
On this account it is advisable to put them in small groups, and remove
the surplus even if they are double,
Sweet William.—The introduction of several new varieties has created a
fresh interest in this fine old garden favourite. This is one of the
hardy biennials that will not be hustled. On a nicely prepared bed in
the open sow thinly in drills either during this month or up to July.
In due time transplant in rows, affording sufficient space for each
specimen to become stocky, and in autumn transfer to flowering
quarters.
Verbena.—Beds for Verbenas should be rich, mellow, and very sweet. A
poor soil not only produces poor flowers, but it materially shortens
the blooming period. Peg the plants down from the outset, and allow
them to cross and recross each other until there is a sheet of glowing
colour.
Wallflower.—This fragrant spring flower is not always grown as well as
it might be. It is often sown too late to become established before
winter sets in. Sow now in drills nine inches apart on friable loam.
Thin to three inches apart, and transplant the thinnings. A little
later repeat the operation, so as to leave the plants at a distance of
six inches in the rows. Assist them with water if necessary.
Zinnia.—A sowing in the open ground about the middle of the month will
provide plants in gardens where there are no means of raising them
artificially at an earlier date. Even those who possess a stock will be
wise to put a final sowing in the open. If possible, choose a sunny
border sloping to the south, and make the soil rich, fine, and rather
firm. Drop seeds in little groups of three or four at each spot,
allowing fifteen or eighteen inches between the groups. Cover lightly,
and eventually thin the plants to one at each station.
JUNE
The days are now at their longest, and plants in pits and houses should
have the full benefit of it. By opening the lights early, and shading
in good time, the flowering period will be greatly prolonged. Ply the
syringe over plants infested with aphis until they are quite clean. In
some instances, it may even be wise to pinch off young shoots which are
covered with the fly.
Keep Verbenas, Petunias, and the taller varieties of Phlox Drummondii
pegged down; this furnishes the beds and helps to check evaporation.
Rain and watering alike tend to harden the ground; and as this
condition does not favour growth, the surface should be frequently
broken with the hoe.
Anemone.—Those who grow this flower from seed should make another
sowing now or in July, even if they have thrifty plants from the
February sowing. By this arrangement the flowering period is prolonged,
and the finer blossoms will probably come from this month’s sowing.
Aquilegia seed will germinate now in the open ground, and the plants
need no protection during winter.
Balsam.—As a rule, it is unwise to put Balsams into beds or borders
before the first week of this month. The plant revels in warmth and
light, and should have an open, sunny position. Its succulent nature
will indicate the necessity of giving abundant supplies of water. For
so fleshy and apparently fragile a plant, it is astonishing how well it
stands in a strong wind. From good strains the separate colours come so
true that the design of a bed can be accurately arranged. As pot plants
Balsams need no support, provided they are kept dwarf and stout, and
they make admirable decorative subjects. But for indoor use it is easy
to grow them in the open ground, and when well advanced they can be
lifted with care and potted. This procedure offers the advantages of a
choice of colours even from mixed seed and a selection of the most
robust plants.
Begonia, Tuberous-rooted.—This has proved to be one of the most elegant
and refined bedding subjects we possess, and it appears to become more
popular every year. The plant is also freely grown in the reserve
border to produce flowers for cutting. Employ specimens that are large
enough to make a show at once, and select plants of the short-jointed
class for outdoor work. They must have unusually rich soil.
Calceolaria.—For wealth of bloom, combined with richness and intensity
of colouring, the Herbaceous Calceolaria has no rival among biennials.
A large greenhouse filled with fine specimens in their full splendour
is a sight which will not soon be forgotten. One great source of
interest lies in the annual changes in shades of colour, and the
variations in the markings of individual flowers. From a first-class
strain of seed, high expectation will not be disappointed. Indeed, the
excellence of seedlings is so fully recognised, that there is not the
smallest advantage in propagating the plant by the tedious method of
cuttings. But Calceolarias will not be trifled with. They must have an
even temperature and unremitting attention to maintain a thriving
condition. Fill the seed-pans or pots firmly with a compost which is
both rich and porous; the last point is of great consequence in helping
to secure free drainage. Make the surface perfectly even, and whiten it
with silver sand; this answers the double purpose of revealing the seed
and afterwards of showing when it is sufficiently dusted over with fine
soil. Whether or not this method be adopted, the sowing must be thin
and even, and as the seed is exceedingly fine, the task is rather a
delicate one. Sheets of glass placed over the pans and turned daily
will check rapid evaporation. Place the pans in a moist, shady spot,
where the temperature is constant, and germination will take place in
from seven to nine days, when the glass must be promptly removed. Then
comes a critical stage, and a little neglect may result in the loss of
past labour, and necessitate a fresh start. Still keep the pans in some
sheltered corner which can be thoroughly shaded from the sun. This
question of shade needs much vigilance. So also does the supply of
water, which must not be administered wholesale, but rather by frequent
gentle sprinklings. On the appearance of the second leaf, promptly
prick off the seedlings in carefully prepared pots, allowing about two
inches between them. They will need dexterous manipulation because of
their small size, but a skilful hand will transfer them without injury,
and perhaps with a little soil adhering to the roots. As all the
seedlings will not be ready at one time, it will probably require about
three operations to clear the seed-pans, and the early removals should
be so made as to avoid injuring the remainder. A pen, with the point
firmly pressed into the holder, makes a small handy implement for the
task. Retain the seedlings in a sheltered position, and continue the
attention as to shade and watering. In about a month the plants will be
ready for thumb pots.