commenced this month and continued according to requirements. As the
corms of these Gladioli are small, several may be placed in a 32-sized
pot. No great amount of heat is wanted for these flowers, a temperature
of about 55° being quite sufficient for them.
Gloxinia.—As the season of rest approaches, place the plants in any
airy position, and gradually reduce the supply of water until the
leaves fall off. The bulbs may be stored for the winter in peat or in
dry moss. The majority of growers, however, never store a bulb, but
rely entirely on seedlings raised annually.
Hyacinth.—To grow this flower successfully in glasses demands no
horticultural skill, for children often produce very creditable
specimens. It only requires the intelligent application of certain
well-understood principles. Like all other bulbs, the Hyacinth should
form its roots before top-growth begins. The flower is cultivated in
water for two reasons: the pleasure derived from seeing the entire
plant, and the decorative value insured by this mode of treating it. As
darkness retards top-growth, but does not delay the production of
roots, it is usual to place the glasses in a cool cellar; and if this
happens to be airy as well as cool and dark, there is no better place
in which to start the bulbs. Still, it must be admitted that darkness
is not essential for the development of roots. But darkness and
coolness alike tend to delay the growth of foliage until roots are
formed. Therefore, if the cultivator resolves to have the plants in
view from the commencement, he must place them in a low and uniform
temperature. The water should always be pure and bright, although it
must not quite touch the bulb, or the latter will rot. Wires to support
the flowers are necessary, and those which are manufactured expressly
for the purpose are both neat and effective. A rather low temperature,
and free access of pure air, should be regarded as necessary conditions
of health in all stages of growth. Hence it will be obvious that a
mantelpiece, with its fluctuations of heat and cold, is a most
unsuitable position for the glasses. We should like to add, that
notwithstanding the high qualities of the Hyacinth, it is quite a
cottager’s flower.
For pot culture the Hyacinth is a grand subject. Prepare the pots
carefully as to drainage, and fill them with a light, rich, porous
compost. Remove a little soil from the central surface, and into this
hollow lightly press the bulb, and press the soil somewhat firmly round
it, leaving about half the bulb visible. If too much power is employed,
the soil will be so compact that when the roots begin to grow, instead
of penetrating, they will lift the bulb out of its proper position.
There is always some risk of this, and it accounts for the practice of
heaping over the pots a considerable weight of ashes. Of course this
covering serves a second purpose in checking leaf-growth until the
roots are established. Any cool and safe position will answer for
storing the pots at this stage. For the earliest supply of flowers
select single varieties, as these naturally come into bloom somewhat in
advance of the doubles. When the tops begin to grow, remove the pots to
a greenhouse or frame, and subdue the light for a brief period until
the natural colour is gained. Thence transfer to the forcing-pit as
requirements demand; and they will need a week or ten days to prepare
them for use. It is easy to secure a continuous supply of Hyacinths
from Christmas onwards by forcing successive batches of roots until the
final display will come into flower without artificial assistance. To
augment the beauty of the flowers employ as little heat as may be
necessary, and defer the finishing temperature until the latest moment
possible. For general decorative purposes, small pots will be found
extremely convenient when a brilliant display is wanted in a limited
compass; good specimens can be grown in the 48-size, but for exhibition
the 32-size must be resorted to. Neither in pots nor in glasses should
the bulbs be allowed to send up leaves from between the outer scales;
these rob the central growth, and they should be carefully removed with
a sharp knife.
Hyacinths, Italian and Roman, should be potted in successive batches to
provide a continuous supply. When the roots are formed the pots may be
removed to a pit or frame, and to the forcing temperature as the buds
show. If they have been brought on gradually, a very few days in a warm
pit or house will throw them into bloom. It is a source of astonishment
to us that these flowers are not more extensively grown in private
gardens. Immense numbers are annually consigned to the London markets,
and find a ready sale for bouquets and table decoration. Of course
these Hyacinths will not bear comparison with the splendid named
varieties which come later, but the Italian and Roman classes are ready
at a time when flowers are scarce and valuable. Like other bulbs of the
same class, they may be shaken out of their own pots and transferred to
ornamental contrivances.
Iris.—The tuberous varieties are all perfectly hardy, and may be
planted at any time from August to December. Put into light soil three
inches deep and nine inches apart they will give no trouble, except to
lift and divide them every second or third season.
Ixia.—Babianas, Ixias, and Sparaxis may all be treated in precisely the
same manner. In sheltered districts in the Southern counties they can
be grown in the open ground; but otherwise the culture must be in pots
under the shelter of a frame or greenhouse. A 48-sized pot will hold
four or five bulbs, and they will thrive in any soil which contains a
large proportion of sand. In spring they may be transferred to a sandy
border, or they can be kept in pots for a couple of years when well
managed.
Jonquil.—The treatment recommended for Narcissus will suit this highly
perfumed flower, both for forcing and in the open ground.
Narcissus.—It is undesirable to hold these bulbs in a dry condition
longer than is necessary, and those intended for pot culture should be
got in promptly. A low temperature must be relied on for keeping back
such as are intended to flower late. The Double Roman and the Paper
White naturally come into bloom in advance of other sorts, and these
should be selected for the earliest display. Give them a rich porous
soil, and pot them rather firmly, but not so firmly as to render it
impossible for the roots to penetrate, or the bulb will be raised above
the soil. Place them in a cool spot, covered with suitable material to
keep the bulbs in their places, and to prevent the foliage from
starting prematurely. When top-growth commences, the pots must go into
some house or frame where they can progress slowly until the moment
arrives for forcing them. If the buds just show, about a week in a
bottom heat of 65° will suffice to bring them to perfection. A
succession can be brought forward at intervals by the same means, until
the final lot will flower without artificial aid. And for the comfort
of those who do not possess heating apparatus, we may add that the
flowers grown naturally will probably be finer than those which have
been forced.
Narcissus may also be grown in glasses in the manner recommended for
Hyacinths, or in bowls and other suitable receptacles filled with
moss-fibre.
In the open ground Narcissus should be planted in quantity, especially
in spots where it appears to be naturally at home, and one of the most
charming effects is obtained by putting them in the rough grass
adjoining shrubbery borders. Instead of cutting the grass, it must be
allowed to throw up flower-heads, and this affords the bulbs time to
mature in readiness for the following season. The many forms of Double
and Single Daffodil are effective border flowers, and the numerous
varieties of Narcissus should be grown in clumps and patches in every
spot which is suitable and vacant. In the reserve border of many
gardens large numbers of Pheasant’s Eye and other Narcissus are planted
to supply flowers for cutting. They are peculiarly valuable for the
purpose, and if cut when scarcely ready they will develop in water, and
last for many days. In planting, be guided as to distance by the size
of the bulb, allowing four or five inches between small sorts, and six
to nine inches for large varieties; depth, six to nine inches.
Oxalis.—Except in a few sheltered districts, it will be necessary to
cultivate this exceedingly pretty flower in frames, or in a sunny, airy
greenhouse. It may also be forced in the stove with success. Put
several bulbs in a pot, and give them a light soil with plenty of sand
in it.
Snowdrop.—It does not improve the roots of this exquisite little
favourite to keep them out of the ground, and they should, if possible,
be planted early.
Sparaxis needs the same treatment as advised for the Ixia.
Sweet Pea.—Exhibitors of Sweet Peas and those who endeavour to secure
the finest sprays for decorative purposes, commence the preparation of
the ground during the present month and incur whatever expense may be
necessary to insure a deep bed of rich friable loam in which the roots
can ramify freely. It is also the practice to sow seeds about the
middle of September in order to provide sturdy well-rooted plants in
readiness for transfer to the prepared plots in early spring. Either
pots or boxes may be used, and a frame is sufficient to bring the
seedlings safely through the winter. The method is dealt with in detail
on page 305.
From mid-September to the end of October, according to the locality, is
an excellent time for sowing Sweet Peas outdoors where the soil is
light and the situation fairly warm. Plants from autumn-sown seed are
generally more robust and produce finer flowers than those raised from
seed sown in the open in spring.
Tropæolum tuberosum.—In potting the tuberous varieties, insure
efficient drainage, and use a compost of rich light loam mixed with
sand. The foliage will trail over the sides of wire baskets with
graceful effect, but it may be trained around balloon-shaped wires
specially made for these flowers. The bulbs remain dormant all through
the winter, and may be started at any time from September to March.
Tulip.—The early class of Tulips is of great value for forcing because
of their brilliant colours and elegant forms. They take kindly to a
high temperature, but forcing should not be commenced too early, nor
should the heat be allowed to exceed 65° at the finish. Plunging is the
most satisfactory method. Several bulbs may be put into one pot, but it
is more convenient to grow them singly, so that flowers in exactly the
same stage of development may be selected for use at one time. A
continuous supply may be secured by potting batches at short intervals.
When in bloom the roots can be washed free from soil for placing in
vases. Decayed turf, with decomposed cow-manure and a proportion of
sand, make an excellent potting soil for Tulips, and it will be all the
more suitable if laid up in a heap for twelve months after being mixed.
OCTOBER
Anemone.—The tuberous-rooted Anemones may be planted in the open at any
time from September to March, and from successive plantings a
continuous display will be obtained from February until far into
spring. For the choice named varieties it is customary for specialists
to make elaborate preparations, into which we need not enter here.
Splendid flowers can be grown in clumps and beds in ordinary gardens by
deep digging, and the employment of a liberal dressing of decayed
cow-manure. Plant the roots from four to six inches apart, and at a
uniform depth of about three inches. In a heavy, retentive soil it is
not advisable to risk a collection of named Anemones until January,
unless a deep layer of light compost can be placed in the drills where
the roots are to be planted.
Annuals, Hardy.—On light soils it will be safe to transplant these now;
but on heavy land the risk is too great, and we advise waiting until
February or March. Lift the plants with as much soil attached to the
roots as possible.
Crocus.—Several flowers bloom in advance of, or as early as, the
Crocus; but no other bulb of its own period can compare with it for
brightness and effective colouring. Plant during this month and
November, in groups and patterns wherever there is a vacant plot and
bulbs can be found to fill it. Put them in at a uniform depth of about
three inches. Drills are easy to draw, and are better for the bulbs
than the objectionable plan of dibbling.
Cyclamen seed may be sown again this month. If properly grown,
seedlings raised now will bloom splendidly next autumn.
Ferraria.—See Tigridia, page 379.
Gladiolus.—By the end of the month lift roots which have flowered, even
if the stems are still green. Label them, and hang in an airy place to
dry. A little later remove the foliage with a sharp knife. Then lay out
the roots for about a fortnight, and when ready store them in paper
bags or boxes placed on a dry shelf, secure from vermin.
Hollyhock.—In favoured districts and in light soil it will be safe to
winter this plant in the open ground with merely the protection of a
little dry litter. But in damp adhesive land it is perilous, and a cold
frame will afford the requisite protection until May returns.
Hyacinth.—Considering the magnificent appearance of this flower, its
culture is most simple. Any fairly good garden soil which is not too
damp in winter will grow it; and the bulbs may be planted in clumps or
beds in any design or arrangement of colour that taste may dictate. At
six inches apart there will be a brilliant display, but the distance is
quite optional. The crowns of the bulbs should not be less than four or
more than six inches below the surface; the greater depth will slightly
retard the flowering. When planted they will give no more trouble until
the time arrives for lifting them to make room for other occupants.
Hyacinth, Feather, is an exceedingly beautiful border flower during May
and early in June. The stems are from nine to fifteen inches high, and
carry flowers whose petals are cut into slender filaments. It will grow
in pots and in the open, in any soil which suits Hyacinths. Plant a
good number in each group.
Hyacinth, Grape.—An interesting dark blue flower, which should be
freely grown in mixed borders to bloom in April. Singly it is useless;
plant good-sized clumps in soil which answers for bulbs.
Hyacinths, Miniature, are the delight of children, in whose honour many
of the varieties are named. Except for their diminutive size, they are
in all respects equal to their larger relations. The culture in pots,
glasses, and beds is similar to that advised for the full-sized roots,
save that the planting in open ground need not be quite so deep, three
inches of soil over the crowns being sufficient.
Hyacinths, Italian and Roman.—Uncover the pots containing the earliest
planting, and at first place them in a dimly lighted position. The
application of heat will depend on the time the flowers are wanted; but
when the plants are forward enough, plunge them in a temperature of
65°, and in about a week they will be ready for use.
Lachenalias rarely attain the proportions they are capable of for want
of water in their growing state. They thrive in peat, and may be forced
into flower at almost any season. Except in warm and sheltered gardens,
they must not be planted in the open. Yet only sufficient warmth is
required to keep frost at bay.
Leucojums are perfectly hardy bulbs which will grow in any garden. The
flowers resemble Snowdrops, but are much larger. Plant in dense groups.
Narcissus.—From the natural characteristics of this bulb it is
desirable that it should be planted early. Sometimes, however, it is
impossible, consistently with other arrangements, either to pot or to
plant Narcissus before October or November. In such cases it is
consoling to know that from sound, well-ripened roots good flowers may
be confidently anticipated, even from late plantings.
Ornithogalum.—In the open this bulb must have some protection during
winter, to save its large fleshy roots from injury by frost. A heap of
light manure or dry litter will answer the purpose. Plant six inches
deep.
Scilla præcox can be grown almost anywhere, and in a light rich soil it
blooms profusely. The bulbs will safely pass the severest winter in the
open ground, and flower in February or March. The exact time depends on
the climate and position. In sheltered spots and mild districts they
will naturally bloom earlier than in bleak and exposed quarters. Plant
in masses or lines, and the bulbs may remain undisturbed for years. A
dense row makes an exceedingly beautiful background to Snowdrops. The
other Scillas are equally hardy and valuable, and they all flower with
great freedom.
Triteleia uniflora is a handsome white-flowering hardy bulb, which will
grow freely in any garden. It is adapted for the company of any of the
dwarf-growing bulbs, and may be employed in either lines or clumps.
Plant the roots three inches apart and two inches deep.
Tuberoses are valued for the purity of their white flowers, and for the
agreeable perfume they exhale. The bulbs may be potted singly or three
in a pot. They thrive in a compost of loam and leaf-mould, and need a
bottom heat ranging between 60° and 70° to bring them to perfection.
The African bulbs are generally ready in September and the importations
from America arrive in December and January.
Tulips may be planted in the open ground at any time during the month.
We shall say nothing as to the arrangement of colours, nor as to the
form of the beds, for both points admit of endless diversity. The mixed
border may be enlivened with groups of many varieties, and if they are
judiciously selected, there will be a succession of flowers for several
weeks in the spring.
Wallflower.—After the summer bedding plants are cleared, Wallflowers
may be usefully employed to fill beds with green foliage all the
winter. They will flower freely in spring, when their colour and
fragrance will be especially welcome, and they can be removed in time
to make way for a different display for the summer.
Winter Aconite is not dismayed by frost or snow, but will put forth its
golden blossoms in the dreariest days of February, and after the
flowers have passed away the foliage will remain as an ornament. To put
in single roots is useless; it is far better to plant a few large
patches than to fritter away the flower in a number of small and
inconspicuous groups.
NOVEMBER
Cyclamen.—Where there is a large demand for this flower, another sowing
may be made this month, unless it was done in October. With so
important a subject it is not wise to depend on a single venture. The
seedlings will afford a valuable succession to those started in August.
Gladiolus.—The soil which answers best for the autumn-flowering section
is a medium friable loam, with a cool rich subsoil. A light loam can be
made suitable by trenching, and putting a thick layer of cow-manure at
the bottom of each trench. And a heavy soil may be reduced to the
proper condition by the free admixture of light loam or sand. Autumn is
the proper time for doing this work, and the ground should be left
rough, so that it may benefit by winter frosts. Wireworms are deadly
enemies to the Gladiolus corms, and an effort should be made to clear
them out. Happily, they will flock to traps such as Potatoes and Rape
cake, and their destruction is a mere question of daily attention.
Planting must, of course, be deferred until spring.
Hyacinthus candicans is generally grown in the company of other flowers
which attain to something like its own imposing proportions. In good
soil the spikes grow three feet high. It may be planted from this time
until March.
Lilies are an ornament to the cottage garden, and they grace the
grandest conservatory. Many of the most superb varieties, including the
king of all the race, _L. auratum_, can be magnificently flowered in
the open border; and we have seen fine specimens of the _Lancifolium_
varieties grown in pots without the aid of pit or frame. It is
therefore obvious that there are no difficulties in the culture of
Lilies. In borders the best soil for them is a deep, rich, moist loam.
Peat and leaf-mould also answer; but a stiff clay will not do unless it
has been cultivated and mixed with lighter stuff. Plant the roots at
least six inches deep, at any time they are in a dormant state, or can
be obtained in pots. Their position in the border should be clearly
marked, or the roots may sustain injury when the soil is forked over.
The noble appearance of _L. auratum_ will always command for it a
prominent place in the conservatory or greenhouse. It will grow in
sandy peat, or in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand. The bulb
should be put into a small pot at first. When this is full of roots,
transfer to a larger size, and shift occasionally until the flower-buds
appear, when re-potting must cease. A cool house will bring the plant
to perfection, although it will bear a high temperature if wanted
early. During growth water must be given freely and be gradually
reduced when the flowering season is over.
The _Lancifolium_ varieties require the same treatment, but it is usual
to put several in one large pot. After the flowering is ended, instead
of allowing the bulbs to become quite dry, keep them moist enough to
prevent the fibrous roots from perishing, and they will start with all
the greater vigour when the time arrives for repotting next season.
Lily of the Valley.—The forcing of this favourite flower generally
begins in November, and it is important to secure roots which are
thoroughly matured for the purpose. They must be finished in a high
temperature, and if managed with judgment there will be plenty of
foliage to set off the long spikes of charming white bells. When
planted in the open ground a shaded spot should be chosen, which must
be freely enriched with leaf-mould, and the plants will not need to be
lifted for four or five years.
Ranunculus.—On a light dry soil, where there is no danger of the roots
sustaining injury during winter, this is a suitable time for planting
all the varieties. To do them justice the land must be liberally
dressed with decayed manure, and the longer the bed can be made ready
before planting, the better will it answer. Put the roots in drills
drawn six inches apart and two inches deep and cover with fine soil.
For retentive land it is advisable to defer planting until February.
Tritonia.—Perhaps the best way of treating this flower is to pot the
bulbs now or in December, and keep them in frames until April, when
they may be transferred to the open ground. A dry soil and a sunny spot
should be found for them.
Tulip.—There is no better time for planting Tulips in beds than the
first half of this month. The bulbs should be covered with four or five
inches of soil according to size, and it is important that each kind
should be put in at a uniform depth to insure a simultaneous display.
On a heavy soil draw deep drills, and partially fill them with light
compost, on which the roots should be planted. The late single
varieties are the Tulips which were formerly so highly prized by
florists. For these bulbs it was the custom to prepare the soil with
extraordinary care when the Tulip craze was at its height. After the
amazing folly of paying 300l. for a single bulb, the minor folly of
extravagance in preparing the soil may be readily pardoned. Happily
that phase of the business has passed away, and handsome Tulips are now
grown without such a prodigal expenditure of money and labour. The site
for this flower should be sunny, the soil fairly rich, and the drainage
good. With these conditions insured, and roots which are sound and
dense, it is easy to obtain a magnificent show of Tulips.
Zephyranthes Candida can be grown in any soil, and if possible the
bulbs should be planted in some spot where they may remain unmolested
through several seasons. The flowers appear about the end of July,
resembling a White Crocus in form, and the blooming continues until
cold weather sets in. Planting may be done between November and March.
DECEMBER