or failures-to replace. If any sowing has gone wrong, do not waste time
by repining over it, but sow again. Growing flowers under artificial
conditions is a prolonged struggle with Nature, in which the most
experienced and skilful gardener need not be ashamed of an occasional
failure. But the cause of the failure should, if possible, be
ascertained for future guidance. We say if possible, because the secret
cannot always be discovered. There may have been every apparent
condition of success, and yet, for some inexplicable reason, there has
been disappointment. As a rule, however, the cause will be found by the
man who is determined to make every failure the stepping-stone to
future success.
The lengthening days and the growing power of the sun demand increased
vigilance and activity. Danger of frost remains, and, worse still,
there may come the withering influence of the north-east wind, which
scorches delicate seedlings as with a breath of fire.
Annuals, Hardy, may be sown in the open from February to May. Perhaps a
list of the principal flowers comprised under this denomination may aid
the memory. Several of the following are not strictly hardy, but for
practical ends they may be so regarded.
Abronia
Acroclinium
*Alyssum
*Asperula
Bartonia
*Cacalia
Calandrinia
Calendula
Candytuft
Centranthus
Chrysanthemum,
annual
Clarkia
Collinsia
Collomia
Convolvulus minor
Coreopsis
Cornflower
Dimorphotheca
Erysimum
Eschscholtzia
Eutoca
Gilia
Godetia
*Gypsophila
Hawkweed
Helichrysum
Hibiscus
Jacobea
Kaulfussia
*Larkspur
*Lavatera
Layia
*Leptosiphon
Leptosyne
Limnanthes
Linaria
Linum
Love-lies-bleeding
*Lupinus
Malope
Marigold
*Mathiola
*Mignonette
Nasturtium
Nemophila
Nigella
Phacelia
Platystemon
*Poppy
Prince’s Feather
Rudbeckia
Salpiglossis
Sanvitalia
Saponaria
Silene
Sunflower
Swan River Daisy
Sweet Pea
Sweet Sultan
Venus’ Looking-glass
Venus’ Navel-wort
*Virginian Stock
Viscaria
Whitlavia
Xeranthemum
Hardy annuals are worth better treatment than they sometimes receive.
They may be sown at once where they are intended to bloom, and for the
varieties preceded by an asterisk this method is a necessity, because
they do not well bear transplanting. In every case sow thinly, and
afterwards thin boldly, for many of the flowers named will occupy a
diameter of one or even two feet if the soil is in a condition to do
them justice. Give the ground a deep digging and incorporate plenty of
manure, except where Nasturtium is to be sown. A rather poor soil is
necessary for this annual, or the flowers will be hidden by excessive
foliage.
Abutilon.—There is yet time to raise plants for blooming in the current
year. The seedlings must be potted on regularly to render them robust
and free-flowering.
Aster.—Only those who are closely acquainted with the modern
development of this handsome flower can have any conception of its
varied forms and colours. There are dwarf, medium, and tall varieties
in almost endless diversity, and nearly all of them will be a credit to
any garden if well grown. Too often, however, flowers are seen which
are a mere caricature of what Asters may become in the hands of men who
understand their requirements. To grow them to perfection the ground
should be trenched in the previous autumn, where the soil is deep
enough to justify the operation. If not, the digging must be deep, and
plenty of decayed manure should be worked in. Leave the ground roughly
exposed to the disintegrating effects of winter frosts; and in spring
it should be lightly forked over once or twice to produce a friable
condition, in which the roots will ramify freely and go down to the
buried manure for stimulating food. If by such means stiff land can be
made mellow, it will grow Asters of magnificent size and colour.
In sowing it is not wise to rely on a single effort. We advise at least
two sowings; and three are better, even if only a few plants are
wanted. This diminishes the risk of failure and prolongs the flowering
season. Prepare a compost of leaf-mould and loam, mixed with sharp sand
to insure drainage. Towards the end of the month sow in pots or in
seed-pans on an even surface; and we lay stress on a thin sowing, to
avoid the danger of the seedlings damping off. Barely cover the seed
with finely sifted soil, and place sheets of glass on the pans or pots
to check rapid evaporation. If water must be given, immerse the pots
for a sufficient time, instead of using the water-can. A cool
greenhouse, vinery, or a half-spent hotbed is a good position for the
pans, and a range of temperature from 55° to 65° should be regarded as
the outside limits of variation.
Auricula.—Seed may still be sown; indeed, April will not be too late.
Partially submerging the pans when water is needed saves many seeds
from being washed out and wasted.
Balsam.—- Although this flower comes from a tropical climate, it is not
very tender; a gentle hot-bed is quite sufficient to bring up the seed.
Two or three sowings are advisable to secure a succession of bloom, and
for the first of them the middle of this month is the proper time. It
is important that the soil for this plant should be light, rich, and
very sweet. When the seedlings show their first rough leaves, lose no
time in pricking them off, and they should afterwards be potted early
enough to promote a dwarf habit.
Calceolaria.—- Plants from last year’s sowing will begin to move, and
should be shifted into their final pots before the buds show. The
eight-inch size ought to contain very fine specimens. The compost for
them should be prepared with care several days before use. Put the
plants in firmly, and place them in a light airy greenhouse. As soon as
the pots are filled with roots an occasional dose of manure water will
be beneficial until the flowers begin to show colour, when pure soft
water alone will be required. Tie out the plants some time before the
buds attain full size.
Clerodendron fallax.—A charming stove plant, producing large heads of
bright scarlet flowers suitable for greenhouse decoration. From seed
sown in March or April there should be a show of bloom in August or
September following.
Coleus is strictly a stove perennial. But our short winter days do not
maintain a rich colour, and it will in almost every instance give more
satisfaction if treated as an annual, enjoying the beautiful and varied
foliage during summer and autumn, and consigning the plants to the
waste-heap as wintry days draw near. We do not advise the sowing of
seed earlier than March, because a considerable amount of daylight is
necessary to the development of rich tints and diversified markings in
the foliage. The essentials for raising plants from seed are good
drainage, a temperature which does not fall below 65°, the careful
employment of water, and the early transfer of the seedlings. The green
plants may be thrown away immediately they reveal their character, but
those which show delicate tints in the small leaves will abundantly
compensate for all the care bestowed upon them.
Dianthus.—Put the seedlings into single pots, and harden in readiness
for transplanting to the open in May or June.
Dimorphotheca.—This valuable half-hardy annual, a native of South
Africa, known also as the Star of the Veldt, may be flowered within six
weeks from time of sowing. Plants may be raised by starting seed this
month or in April, in pans of light soil given the protection of a
frame. Transplant in May, in well-drained soil, choosing a warm sunny
spot. In the open, seed may safely be sown in May or June. Plants
potted on from the early sowing will make a most attractive show in the
conservatory, or seed may be sown in pots and the seedlings thinned to
three or four in each.
Gaillardia.—To secure a supply of plants for the open ground in May,
seed of all the varieties may be sown during this month. Prick off
early and keep them dwarf.
Geum.—From seed sown this month or in April, the popular double
variety, Mrs. Bradshaw, may be brought into flower in the first year.
The seedlings should be pricked off into boxes and gradually hardened
for putting out in May or June.
Gladiolus.—This is one of the most stately and beautiful flowers grown
in our gardens. Some of the varieties are strikingly brilliant; others
are exceedingly delicate in tint and refined in their markings. The
culture may be of the most primitive kind, or it may become one of the
fine arts of horticulture. Simply put into the ground and left to fight
their own battle, the corms sometimes produce splendid spikes of
flower, although not so imposing as better culture might have made
them. Under skilful care the flowers are magnificent in size and
colour.
The main work of preparing the ground should be done in autumn. Now it
is only necessary to give the soil two or three light forkings, and
those not deep enough to bring the buried manure to the surface. This
frequent stirring is beneficial in itself, and it promotes the
destruction of the foes which prey upon Gladiolus roots. Small
Potatoes, roughly hollowed out, or pieces of Carrot, may be used as
traps for wireworm and other vermin. Planting is sometimes done at the
end of this month, but as a rule it is better to wait until the
beginning of April.
Gloxinia.—There is yet time to secure a brilliant summer display from
seed. Bulbs which have been stored through the winter need attention.
Where these flowers are wanted early, and there is plenty of room, a
commencement will probably be made in February; but in the greater
number of gardens March is soon enough. Assuming the bulbs to be sound,
they should be potted in a mixture of loam, peat, and sand. Those which
start first must be re-potted for a forward supply. While growing,
manure water twice a week will help to produce fine flowers, intense in
colour; but when the flowers open, the liquid manure must be abandoned,
and pure soft water be given as often as necessary, for Gloxinias
cannot endure drought. Shading is an important matter from the
commencement, and particularly during the flowering period.
Hollyhock seedlings will be ready for putting into thumb pots. Directly
they are established, begin to prepare them for planting out in May.
Impatiens.—Some growers find a little difficulty in raising this
elegant flower from seed. Probably it arises from sowing too early.
Where there is a command of sufficient heat no trouble should be
experienced in March, and it is essential to sow very thinly for two
reasons. Crowded seedlings are liable to damp off, particularly in
dull, moist weather, and they are so fragile that it is well-nigh
impossible to transfer them from the seed-pots until they are about an
inch high.
Lavatera.—As the Mallows do not transplant well it is desirable to sow
in the flowering positions. Good ground is necessary to insure fine
specimens, and ample space must be allowed for the plants to develop.
The seed may be sown from March to May.
Lobelia.—The perennial varieties make splendid border plants, and are
easily grown from seed. Sow during February or March, in moderate heat,
and in due time transfer to a deep rich loam. Their dark metallic
foliage and brilliant flowers are most conspicuous, and admirably fit
them for the back row of a ribbon border, or for groups in the mixed
border.
Lupinus.—Seed of the annual varieties may be put in from March to May,
and it is necessary to sow where required for flowering, as
transplanting is not satisfactory. The perennial Lupines may also be
flowered as annuals by sowing seed in March or April.
Marigold.—Both the African and French varieties are of importance late
in the season, for they continue to bloom until cut down by frost. The
former reaches the height of from eighteen to thirty inches, and the
colour is limited to yellow in several shades, from pale lemon to deep
orange. The latter is more varied in habit as well as in colour, and
the Miniatures make excellent bedding plants. In hot dry seasons
Marigolds entirely eclipse Calceolarias, because they can well endure
drought and a short supply of food; whereas the Shrubby Calceolaria
does not thrive under such conditions. All the varieties of Tagetes may
be sown now on a moderate heat, and they should be pricked off into
pans or boxes in readiness for transferring to the open ground in May.
Marvel of Peru.—The treatment prescribed for Balsam will suit this
plant. In the first year it will grow to a considerable size, but will
not, as a rule, attain to its full dimensions until the second season.
It is a half-hardy perennial, and when saved through the winter will
need protection from frost.
Mignonette finds a welcome in every English garden; and to add to its
attractiveness there are now yellow, red, and white varieties, in
addition to such forms as dwarf, pyramidal, and spiral. Mignonette can
be grown without the least difficulty; indeed, it will reproduce itself
from seed shed in the previous year. Nevertheless, it is true that in
the majority of gardens justice is seldom done to this flower, for the
simple reason that there is not sufficient faith in its capabilities.
Each plant will cover a space of at least one foot, and we have seen
specimens a yard across, bristling with flower-spikes which are
delightfully fragrant. The soil for it should be made firm, just as an
Onion bed is treated. Except for this one point, the culture of a hardy
annual is all that is necessary. Mignonette does not transplant
successfully, but otherwise it is very accommodating. The seedlings are
frequently taken off by fly as fast as they appear above ground. Soot
and wood-ashes applied in good time are the best preventives; but a
second sowing may be necessary, and it should be made immediately the
loss is discovered.
Nemesia.—For the earliest display of this beautiful annual the first
sowing should be made in pots under glass during this month. In the
open border seed may be sown in both May and June. Occasionally a
little difficulty is experienced in raising plants under artificial
conditions, but those who sow in beds or borders from the same packet
of seed during the months named, will find that the culture is quite
easy.
Pentstemon.—The treatment recommended for the perennial section of
Lobelias will exactly suit this flower.
Phlox Drummondii.—There is still time to sow. Established seedlings
should be gradually hardened by free access of air, until they are
ready for the open ground.
Phlox, Perennial, may be raised from seed sown in shallow boxes in the
early part of this month, and placed in moderate heat. Transplant the
seedlings when ready, gradually harden, and plant out in rich soil one
foot apart, or put them into vacant places in the shrubbery. Aid with
water if necessary.
Poppy.—The annual varieties do not well bear transplanting, especially
from light soils, and therefore, as a rule, it is advisable to sow
where the plants are intended to bloom. They make conspicuous lines and
clumps among shrubs; and this is especially the case with the huge
flowers of the double class. Sow in March and April, and commence
thinning the seedlings while they are small. They should ultimately be
left about one foot apart. The perennial Poppies may also be flowered
as annuals if sown in this month and transferred to open quarters when
large enough.
Schizanthus.—Elegant half-hardy annuals, which can be grown as
specimens for the conservatory, or in quantity for open borders. Sow in
gentle heat, and pot on the seedlings.
Solanum.—For a succession of the varieties which are grown for their
berries, sow again in heat, and make a sowing of the
ornamental-foliaged kinds for sub-tropical gardening. The latter are
rather more tender, and need a somewhat higher temperature than the
former. They must all have liberal culture to bring out their fine
qualities.
Statice.—The hardy annual varieties of Sea Lavender may be sown during
March or April, and the best results are obtained by starting the seed
in pans and planting out when the seedlings are far enough advanced in
size. Seed of the hardy perennial kinds should be sown from April to
July on light soil, and transplanted later on to flowering quarters.
Stock, Ten-week.—The increasing favour shown for Annual Stocks is in
part no doubt attributable to the growing appreciation manifested for
all kinds of flowers. But it is traceable in a still greater measure to
the augmented purity, brilliance, and variety in colour of modern
Ten-week Stocks, as well as to the enhanced reliability of seed in
producing double flowers. We need say nothing of its perfume, for this
is a quality which the most unobservant can scarcely fail to notice.
Although the Ten-week Stock is half-hardy, it must not receive the
treatment of a tender annual; indeed, one of the most important points
in growing it is to avoid any excess of artificial heat. A little
assistance at the commencement it must have; but the aim should be to
impart a hardy constitution from the moment the seedlings appear. We
are not advocating reckless exposure to chill blasts, but the necessity
of giving air freely whenever there may be a fair opportunity. The best
of seed-beds can be made in pans or shallow boxes filled with sweet,
sandy soil. In these sow thinly, so that the young plants may have
abundant room. Even a little apparent wastefulness of space will be
repaid by stout and vigorous growth. From the middle to the end of the
month is a suitable time for sowing.
Sweet Pea.—This flower is so much in demand for decorative purposes
that a prolonged display should be secured by successive sowings,
commencing in this month and continuing until May, or even to June,
where the soil and circumstances are specially favourable. The value of
groups of Sweet Peas in borders and for enlivening shrubberies is now
thoroughly appreciated, and it is not uncommon to see fine clumps among
dwarf fruit trees.
Tigridia, or Ferraria.—Finer flowers are generally obtained from the
open border than from pots, and the bulbs should be planted out three
or four inches deep in March or April. Sandy loam and peat suit them
admirably. On a dry border these bulbs will pass the winter safely, but
in wet land it will be perilous to leave them out.
Verbena.—It is possible to raise Verbenas in the open from seed sown in
drills on light soil, but the attempt is a little hazardous. There is,
however, no danger at all in sowing in pans placed in a cool frame. The
plants should be potted immediately they are large enough to handle.
The flowering from this sowing will be rather late, but not too late
for a good show of bloom.
Zinnia.—The double varieties are now grown almost to the exclusion of
single flowers, and the former are so incomparably superior, that they
are judged by the severe rules of the florist. With this plant it is
useless to start too early. Towards the end of the month a commencement
will be made by experienced growers, but the comparative novice will be
wise to wait until the beginning of April. Sow in pots filled with a
compost of leaf-mould, loam, and sand, and be quite sure there is
effectual drainage. Plunge the pots in a temperature of about 60°.
APRIL
Many half-hardy flowers, such as Acroclinium, _Convolvulus major_,
_Linum rubrum_, Nemesia, Salpiglossis, Schizanthus, and others, which
at an earlier period can only be sown with safety under protection, may
now be consigned to the open ground without the least misgiving. A
knowledge of this fact is of immense value to owners of gardens that
are destitute of glass, for it enables them to grow a large number of
flowers which would otherwise be impracticable. Of course, the
flowering will be a little later than from plants raised earlier in
heat.
Annuals, Hardy, which were not sown in March should be got in during
this month and in May. A large number of beautiful subjects are
available for the purpose, the most popular of which are named on page
373.
Aster.—When the seedlings attain the third leaf, they should be pricked
off round the edges of 60-sized pots; later on put them singly into
small pots, from which the transfer to the open ground will not cause a
perceptible check. As the plants do not thrive in a close atmosphere,
it is important to give air freely on every suitable occasion, or they
cannot be maintained in a healthy growing condition. A second sowing
should be made about the middle of the month, following the routine
already advised. A sowing in drills on a carefully prepared bed in the
open ground is also desirable, and in some seasons it may produce the
most valuable plants of the year. Asters come so true from seed that
the bed may be arranged in any desired pattern. Thin the plants early,
and continue the process until they are far enough apart for flowering.
A distance of eight inches is sufficient for the miniatures, ten inches
for the dwarfs, and twelve or fifteen inches for the tall varieties.
Balsam.—About the middle of this month will be the time for a second
sowing, and the seed may be raised in a frame without artificial heat.
Canterbury Bell.—Sow in good soil from April to July and transplant
when ready. Under generous treatment these hardy biennials make a
beautiful display in borders and the pure colours show with striking
effect against the dark foliage of shrubs.
Carnation.—Any time from now until August will be suitable for sowing,
and if the seed has been saved from a first-class strain, a good
proportion of very fine flowers will be produced in the following year.
For these plants florists have always considered it important that the
potting soil should be prepared months before use, and there are good
reasons for the practice. If this is impossible, see that the compost
is sweet, friable, and, above all, free from that terrible scourge of
Carnations, the wireworm. Even sifting will not rid the soil of its
presence with certainty, but by spreading thin layers of the mould
evenly upon a hard, level floor, and passing a heavy roller over it
east and west, then north and south, the wireworm will be disposed of.
Or dressing the soil with Vaporite two or three weeks in advance of
potting will often prove effectual. Turfy loam three parts, leaf-mould
one part, decayed cow-manure one part, with an addition of sharp sand,
make a first-class compost. Sow in well-drained 48-sized pots, cover
the seed very lightly, and place in a frame. Transplant the seedlings
immediately they can be handled, when a cool, shaded pit will keep them
in hard condition. After six or eight leaves are formed it will be time
to plant them out. In the following spring the usual routine of staking
and tying must be followed.
Chrysanthemum leucanthemum (Marguerite, or Ox-eye Daisy).—Seed of these
well-known perennial varieties may be sown any time from April to July.
There are several greatly improved forms of this popular flower which
may now be had in bloom from May until early autumn. Start the
seedlings on a bed of light soil, and when large enough transplant them
to positions for flowering in the following year.
Cyclamen.—The bulbs which have been flowering in pots through the
winter are now approaching their period of rest, and they must not be
neglected if they are to make a satisfactory display next season. Water
should be gradually diminished until the foliage dies off, and then the
corms will require shade, or they will crack. Dry treatment generally
results in an attack of thrips, and each root must be painted with some
good insecticide to destroy the pest. Cyclamen should never be allowed
to become actually dust-dry; but if the pots can be plunged in a shaded
moist pit, watering will rarely be necessary. In June the pots may be
buried to the rim in a shady spot until August, when it will be time to
re-pot and start the bulbs into growth. The chief enemies of Cyclamen
are aphis and thrips. Fumigation will settle the former; for the
latter, dip the plants in a solution of tobacco-water and soft soap.
Dahlia, seedlings must have plenty of water, and be kept free from
aphis while in pots. Instead of taking out the leading shoot, as is
often done, give it the support of a neat stick. The plants should also
be potted on as growth demands, the important point being to maintain
steady progress without a check until they can be planted out. At the
same time they must be hardened in readiness for removal to the open
ground; and if the work is carried on with judgment, the plants will be
dwarf, and possess a robust constitution capable of producing a
brilliant display of flowers until frost appears.