easy to have a supply of this magnificent flower in every month of the
year. Sow thinly in new pots filled with a light porous compost, and
see that the drainage is exceptionally good. Give the pots a warm moist
position, and a light sprinkling of water daily will assist
germination. The first seedlings that are ready should be lifted and
pricked off without disturbing the remainder of the soil. Follow up the
process until all are transferred. Although the leaves may rest on the
surface, the hearts should never be covered. Pot off singly when large
enough, and shift on until the 48-size is reached. For ordinary plants
this is large enough, but extra fine specimens need more pot room, and
so long as increased space is given the flowering will be deferred.
Between the plants there must be a clear space or the leaves will decay
through contact. While growing, a moist atmosphere, with a temperature
of 60° or 65 °, will suit them; but immediately flowering commences,
humidity is a source of mischief. The most forward plants from this
month’s sowing will, if well treated, begin to flower in June.
Grevillea robusta.—Seed of this exceedingly handsome shrub may be sown
at any time of the year, and the pots containing it must be kept moist
until the seedlings appear. How long it will be before they become
visible we cannot tell. Germination may not occur until hope has died,
and the pots have been contemptuously relegated to some obscure corner.
But after the young plants are pricked off, they will give no trouble,
except to re-pot them two or three times, and to take care that they do
not perish for want of water.
Hollyhock.—This stately border flower is occasionally grown and
flowered as an annual, and some gardeners succeed in producing
satisfactory plants, carrying fine double blossoms, superb in colour
and of noble proportions. Where this method is possible it is necessary
to sow in the opening month of the year, and to use well-drained pots
or seed-pans. Cover the seed with a sprinkling of fine soil, and place
in a temperature of 65° or 700. In about a fortnight the seedlings will
be ready for pricking off round the edges of 4 1/2-inch pots. But as a
rule the finest spikes are obtained from a sowing in July or August.
Petunia.—About the third week of this month a sowing should be made to
produce plants for indoor decoration. Late in February or early in
March will be soon enough to prepare for bedding stuff. Sow thinly in
good porous soil, and give the pots or pans a temperature of about 60°.
They should have a little extra attention just as the seed is
germinating, for that is a critical time with Petunias. Uniformity in
temperature and moisture, with shade when necessary, and plenty of pot
room, are the secrets of success in growing these plants.
Statice.—The Sea Lavenders make attractive border subjects, but the
sprays of flowers are probably still more valued for cutting and, when
dried, for the winter decoration of vases in association with
Everlastings. Seed of the half-hardy varieties may be sown from January
to March in gentle heat, transferring the plants to the open in due
course.
Verbena.—This flower should be grown with as little artificial aid as
possible. In fact, the more nearly it is treated as a hardy plant the
more vigorous and free blooming will it be. A temperature of 60° is
sufficient to raise the seed at this period of the year; and after the
plants are established in pots, heat may be gradually dispensed with.
Sow in pans or boxes filled with rich, mellow, and very sweet soil.
Transfer to thumb pots when large enough, and give one more shift as
growth demands, until the plants are ready for bedding out in May.
There is a choice of distinct colours, which come true from seed. Green
fly is very partial to the Verbena, especially while in pots; it must
be kept down, or the seedlings will make no progress.
FEBRUARY
A Considerable number of important flowers should be sown during this
month. The precise dates depend on the district, the character of the
season, and the resources of the cultivator. Should the month open with
frost, or with rough, wet weather, it will be wise to exercise a little
patience. Where there are insufficient means for battling with sudden
variations of temperature, choose the end rather than the beginning of
the month for starting tender subjects. Govern the work by intelligent
observation, instead of following hard and fast rules. But in no case
should fear of the weather form an excuse for the postponement of
necessary work.
Annuals and Biennials, Hardy.—It is one of the merits of hardy annuals
and biennials sown in late summer for blooming in the following spring
that they need very little attention. Still, they ought not to be
entirely neglected. They should be kept scrupulously free from weeds,
and it may be evident that a mulch of decayed manure is necessary to
protect and strengthen them for a rich display of colour in the spring.
Such varieties as have to be transplanted should be watched, and the
first suitable opportunity seized for transferring them to flowering
positions.
Abutilon is a flowering greenhouse shrub which answers well under the
treatment of an annual. It does not need a forcing temperature at any
stage, nor is the plant fastidious as to soil. The seed, which is both
slow and irregular in germinating, may be sown in pots. As the young
plants become ready they should be pricked off and kept steadily
growing. When leaves drop, it indicates mismanagement, perhaps
starvation. A well-grown specimen, when the buds show, will be two feet
high, and bear examination all round.
Anemone.—Against the practice of planting roots of this elegant flower
we have not a word to say. On the contrary, there is much to be
advanced in its favour. Arrangements of colour can be secured which are
impossible of attainment from seedlings. Still, there can be no doubt
that the supposed necessity of depending alone on bulbs has proved a
barrier to the growth of Anemones in many gardens, and on a large
scale. The culture from seed is of the simplest character, no
appliances whatever beyond those at the command of the cottager being
needed. The prime requisite is a rich moist soil. Where this does not
exist naturally, a liberal dressing of mellow cow-manure, and, in dry
weather, a diligent employment of the water-can, will render it
possible to grow superb flowers of brilliant colour. The best way of
making the seed-bed is to open a trench, putting a layer of decayed
manure at the bottom, and mingling a further quantity with the soil
when it is returned. The addition of some light compost or sand to the
surface may or may not be necessary to prepare it for the seed. We
prefer sowing in rows and lightly scratching the seed in. Some growers
only sift a little sand over, and the practice answers well. Weeds must
be removed with care until the seedlings appear, and these are a long
time in coming. Thinning to six inches apart, and keeping the bed clean
and moist, constitute the whole remainder of the work of growing
Anemones.
Aquilegia sown this month in a frame will produce plants which may
flower later in the year, provided the season is favourable; but they
will certainly pay for this early sowing in the succeeding spring. The
plant is quite hardy, therefore seed may be sown later on in the open
for a display in the following year.
Asparagus (_Greenhouse foliage varieties_).—The finely feathered sprays
of _A. plumosus_ have become indispensable for bouquets, buttonholes,
and general decorative purposes. _A. decumbens_ and _A. Sprengeri_ are
most graceful plants in hanging-baskets. Seed of the three varieties
should be sown in heat in either February or March.
Auricula.—The Show Auricula is one of the reigning beauties of the
floral world, and, like the Rose, has its own special exhibitions.
Although the flower merits all the admiration it receives, yet it must
be confessed that some amateurs indulge in a great deal of needless
coddling in the work of raising it. One quality there must be in the
grower, and that is patience; for seed saved from a single plant in any
given season, and sown at one time, will germinate in the most
irregular manner. Months may elapse between the appearance of the first
and the last plant. The lesson to sow thinly is obvious, so that the
seedlings may be lifted as they become ready, without disturbing the
surrounding soil. Both the Show and the Alpine varieties should be sown
in pans filled with a mixture of sweet sandy loam and leaf-mould. They
may be started in gentle heat, but this is quite optional. The Auricula
is thoroughly hardy against cold, and glass is only employed as a
protection against wind, heavy rain, and atmospheric deposits.
Begonia, Tuberous-rooted.—Seed may still be sown for a summer display.
Transplant seedlings which are ready, and later on pot them singly.
Calceolaria, Shrubby.—Seeds sown in pans placed in a frame or a
greenhouse of moderate temperature will insure plants for outdoor
summer decoration. Transfer the seedlings to pots quite early.
Campanula.—By sowing seed in gentle heat during February many of the
Campanulas will flower the same season. These hardy plants require but
little heat, and they should be given as much light and air as
possible. They may be grown on in pots for the decoration of rooms or
the conservatory, or planted out on good ground in the open border. The
half-hardy trailing variety, _C. fragilis_, is specially adapted for
suspended baskets or large vases. Seed is generally sown in February or
March; when ready the seedlings are transferred to pots.
Celosia plumosa.—Seed may be sown either now or in March, and the
routine recommended for Cockscombs will develop splendid plumes. Re-pot
in good time to prevent the roots from growing through the bottoms of
the pots.
Cockscomb.—The ideal Cockscomb is a dwarf, well-furnished plant, with
large, symmetrical, and intensely coloured combs. Seed of a first-class
strain will produce a fair proportion of such plants in the hands of a
man who understands their treatment. Sow in seed-pans filled with rich,
sweet, friable loam, and place in a brisk temperature. Transfer the
seedlings very early to small pots, and shift on until the size is
reached in which they are to flower. Directly they become root-bound
the combs will be formed.
Cosmea.—To prevent the disappointment which is sometimes experienced by
growers of this attractive half-hardy annual, it is essential to sow a
reliable early-flowering strain. Start the seed on a gentle hot-bed in
February and plant out the seedlings in May or June when the danger
from frost is past.
Dahlia.—Both the double and single classes can be grown and flowered
from seed as half-hardy annuals. A sowing in this month will supply
plants sufficiently forward to bloom at the usual time. Some growers
begin in January, and provided they have room and the work can be
followed up without risking a check at any stage, no objection can be
raised to the practice. For most gardens, however, February is safer,
and March will not be too late. Sow thinly in pots or pans filled with
light rich soil, and finish with a very thin covering of fine
leaf-mould. When the seedlings are about an inch high, pot them
separately, taking special care of the weakly specimens, for these in
point of colour may prove to be the gems of the collection. After
transplanting, a little extra attention will help them to a fresh
start.
Dianthus.—From sowings made this month or in January, all the varieties
may be raised in about 55° or 60° of heat, but immediately the seed has
germinated it is important to put the pots in a lower temperature, or
the seedlings will become soft. They should also be transferred to
seed-pans when large enough to handle.
Fuchsia.—It is now widely known that Fuchsias can be satisfactorily
flowered from seed in six or seven months, and from a good strain there
will be seedlings well worth growing. Sow thinly on a rich firm soil,
and give the pots a temperature of about 70°. While quite small
transfer the plants to the edges of well-drained pots, and later on pot
them singly into a compost consisting chiefly of leaf-mould until the
flowering size is reached, when a proportion of decayed cow-manure
should be added. The Fuchsia is a gross feeder, and must have abundance
of food and water. Aphis and thrips are persistent enemies of this
plant, and will need constant attention.
Geranium seed may be sown at any time of the year, but there are good
reasons why the months of February and August should be chosen.
Seedlings raised now will make fine plants by the end of June, and
begin to flower in August. They are robust in habit, and from a
reliable strain there will be a considerable proportion of handsome
specimens. Sow in pans filled with soil somewhat rough in texture, and
the surface need not be very smooth. Lightly cover the seed with fine
loam. To have plants ready for flowering in the summer it will be
necessary to give the seed-pans a temperature of 60° or 70°, and follow
the usual practice of pricking off and potting the seedlings.
Gladiolus.—It is not common to grow this noble flower from seed, but
the task is simple, and seed good enough to be worth the experiment is
obtainable. In large pots, well drained and filled with fibrous loam
and leaf-mould, dibble the seeds separately an inch apart and half an
inch deep. A temperature of 65° or 70° will bring them up, and when
they reach an inch high the heat should be gradually reduced. The
seedlings need not be transplanted, but may remain in the same pots
until the grass dies down, and the corms are sifted out in September or
October.
Gloxinia.—The directions under January are applicable, but it will be
necessary to provide shade for the seedlings as the sun becomes hot,
especially after they have been re-potted.
Kochia trichophylla.—A beautiful half-hardy ornamental annual shrub,
symmetrical in form. From seed sown during this month or in March
plants can easily be raised for indoor decoration or to furnish a
supply for beds and borders. When well grown and allowed plenty of
space from the beginning, each specimen forms a dense mass of bright
green foliage which changes to russet-crimson in autumn.
Lobelias occupy a foremost place for bedding, and are sufficiently
diversified to meet many requirements. Indeed, there is no other blue
flower which can challenge its position. The compact class is specially
adapted for edgings; the spreading varieties answer admirably in
borders where a sharply defined line of colour is not essential; the
_gracilis_ strain has a charming effect in suspended baskets,
window-boxes, and rustic work; and the _ramosa_ section grows from nine
to twelve inches high, producing large flowers. All these may be sown
now as annuals, to produce plants for bedding out in May. Put the seed
into sandy soil, and start the pans in a gentle heat.
Mimulus, if sown now and treated as a greenhouse annual, will flower in
the first year. It is one of the thirstiest plants grown in this
country, and must have unstinted supplies of water.
Nicotiana.—Where sub-tropical gardening is practised the Tobacco plant
is indispensable. To develop its fine proportions there must be the
utmost liberality of treatment from the commencement. Either in this
month or early in March sow in rich soil, and place the pans in a warm
house or pit. Put the seedlings early into small pots, and promote a
rapid but sturdy growth, until the weather is warm enough for them in
the open ground. The Nicotiana also makes an admirable pot plant for
the conservatory or greenhouse, where it is especially valued for its
delightful fragrance.
Pansy.—Although the Pansy will grow almost anywhere, a moist, rich
soil, partially shaded from summer sun, is necessary to do the plant
full justice. Many distinct colours are saved separately, and the
quality of the seedlings is so good that propagation by cuttings is
gradually declining. Sow thinly in pots or pans, and when the young
plants have been pricked off, put them in a cool, safe corner until
large enough for bedding out. The soil should be plentifully dressed
with decayed cow-manure.
Pelargonium.—In raising seedling Pelargoniums, it is well to bear in
mind that worthless seed takes just as much time and attention as does
a first-class strain. The simplest greenhouse culture will suffice to
bring the plants to perfection. A light sandy loam suits them, and the
pots need not go beyond the 48-or at most the 32-size. Flowering will
be deferred until re-potting ceases.
Petunia.—Towards the end of the month the seedlings raised in January
for pot culture will be ready for transferring to seed-pans. It will
also be time to sow for bedding plants, although the beginning of March
is not too late.
Phlox Drummondii.—The attention devoted to this flower has made it one
of the most varied and brilliant half-hardy annuals we possess. The
_grandiflora_ section includes numerous splendid bedding subjects which
flower freely, and continue in bloom for a long period. These and
others are also valuable as pot plants, and even in the greenhouse or
conservatory they are conspicuous for their rich colours. All the
varieties may be sown now in well-drained pans or shallow boxes. Press
the seeds into good soil about an inch apart, and as a rule this will
save transplanting; but if transplanting becomes necessary, take out
alternate plants and put into other pans, or pot them separately. The
remainder will then have room to grow until the time arrives for
bedding out.
Polyanthus.—Either now or in March sow in pans filled with any fairly
good potting soil, and do not be impatient about the germination of the
seed. Many sowings of good seed have been thrown away because it was
not known that the Polyanthus partakes of the slow and irregular
characteristics of this class of plants. As the seedlings become ready,
lift them carefully and transplant into pans or boxes, from which a
little later they may be moved to any secluded corner of the border,
until in September they are put into flowering quarters. While in the
seed-pans they must be kept moist, although excessive watering is to be
avoided. Should the summer prove dry, they will also need water when in
the open ground.
Primroses of good colours are admirably adapted for indoor decoration,
and there is no occasion to grow them in pots for the purpose. Lift the
required number from the reserve border without exposing the roots; pot
them, and place in a cool frame until established. Plenty of space, no
more water than is absolutely essential, and progressive ventilation,
comprise all the needful details of cultivation. Seed sown in this
month or in March, in pans or boxes, will produce fine plants for
flowering in the succeeding year.
Primula.—The elegant half-hardy varieties _P. obconica grandiflora_ and
_P. malacoides_ may be sown any time from February to July, the
earliest of which will commence flowering in the succeeding autumn and
winter. The aim should be to keep the plants as hardy as possible,
giving them air whenever conditions are favourable.
Ranunculus.—Although it is not usual to grow this flower from seed, it
is both easy and interesting to do so. Sow in boxes containing from
four to six inches of soil, and as there need be no transplanting, each
seed should be put in separately, about an inch and a half apart. A
cool greenhouse or frame will supply the requisite conditions for
growing the seedlings. When the foliage has died down, sift out the
roots, and store in dry peat or cocoa-nut fibre for the winter.
To secure an immediate display of Ranunculuses it is necessary to plant
mature roots. The soil in which they especially thrive is an adhesive
loam or clay. This happens to be unfavourable to their safety in the
winter, and therefore it is wise to defer planting in such soils until
this month. A very simple procedure will suffice to produce handsome,
richly coloured flowers. If possible, choose for the bed a heavy soil
in an open situation, and dress it liberally with decayed manure. Give
the land a deep digging, and lay it up rough, that it may be benefited
by frosts. In January and February fork it lightly over several times,
with the double purpose of making it mellow and of enabling birds to
clear it of vermin. Traps made of hollowed Potatoes will also assist
the latter object. Not later than the third week of February the roots
should be planted in drills drawn six inches apart and two inches deep.
Put them at intervals of four inches in the rows, with the claws
downwards, and cover with fine soil. Keep the bed free from weeds, and
give abundant supplies of water in dry weather. When the foliage is
dead, lift the roots and store for the next season.
The Turban Ranunculus is less delicate than the named varieties, and
there need be less hesitation about autumn planting.
Ricinus.—The Castor-oil Plant is largely cultivated for its striking
ornamental foliage, and under generous treatment it will attain from
four to six feet in height. It is a half-hardy annual, and should be
grown in the same manner as Nicotiana.
Salpiglossis merits its increasing popularity. A sowing at the end of
this month or the beginning of March will insure plants in condition
for the open ground in May. A moderate hot-bed is requisite now, but in
April the seed may be sown on prepared borders for a summer display of
the veined and pencilled flowers.
Solanum.—The varieties which are grown for winter decoration are much
prized when laden with their bright-coloured berries. Sow the several
kinds in heat, and transfer the seedlings straight to single pots
filled with very rich soil.
Stock, Intermediate.—To form a succession to the Summer-flowering, or
Ten-week, varieties in July and August, seed of the Intermediate Stocks
should be sown in gentle heat during February or March. The treatment
accorded to Ten-week Stocks, described on page 379, will suit the
Intermediate varieties also.
Sweet Peas have in recent years become such an important ornament to
the garden and the flowers are so highly prized for household use that
no effort is spared to insure a long-continued display. With this
object in view seeds are sown in pots and the seedlings transplanted,
as soon as weather permits, to the ground specially prepared in the
preceding autumn. Those who did not sow in September should do so in
the latter part of January or during February. A forcing temperature is
injurious, and the plants thrive best when given practically hardy
treatment.
Vallota purpurea.—This handsome bulbous plant is not quite hardy, but
in several of the Southern counties it may be grown in the open ground,
with only the shelter of dry litter or a mat. In pots the bulbs should
not be allowed to go dry through the winter; and when growth commences
in spring, water must be given freely. Good loam suits the Vallota, and
it is desirable to avoid re-potting until the flowering period has
passed: when a transfer becomes necessary, disturb the roots as little
as possible.
Verbena, if not sown last month, should be got in promptly, for it is
important not to hurry the growth of this plant by excessive heat.
Wigandia is a half-hardy perennial, grown exclusively for its noble
tropical foliage. If started now, it will attain a large size as an
annual. It is impossible to grow this plant too well. A lavish
employment of manure and water will secure stately specimens. The
instructions given for Ricinus apply equally to the Wigandia.
MARCH