and perhaps of happy visits to its haunts in days gone by. But many
ardent lovers of the Primrose may not know that the strains which are
now in favour embrace a wide range of colour, from pure white to deep
crimson or maroon, various shades of yellow and orange, and rich blue.
In fact, in a batch of seedlings nearly every plant may differ from its
companions. They all agree, however, in possessing the delicate perfume
which is characteristic of the hardy woodland favourite. Fancy
Primroses are prized as pot and border flowers, and they fully reward
florists for all the care which has been devoted to their improvement.
They will bloom satisfactorily in any shady spot; but to grow them to
perfection requires a stiff moist loam, on the north side of some hedge
or shrubbery, where glimpses of sunshine occasionally play upon them.
Here large flowers, intense in colour, will be abundantly produced far
into the spring.
The finest plants are generally obtained from a February or March
sowing made in pans or boxes. Seed may also be sown from May to July in
carefully prepared ground in the open. If inclined to take some pains
in raising the plants—and they are certainly worth it—make the summer
sowings in seed-pans in ordinary potting soil; sprinkle a little sand
over the seed, and as a finish press firmly down. Sheets of glass laid
over the pans and turned daily will prevent rapid evaporation and help
to keep the soil uniformly moist. The seedlings either may be potted
once, and then be planted out, or, if strong enough, they may be
transferred straight to flowering positions. Should this mode of
procedure be considered too troublesome, prepare a shady patch of
ground by deep digging; make it firm and level, and on this sow in
shallow drills, covering the seed very lightly. A dressing of soot over
the surface, and a cordon of ashes round it, will keep off slugs. Thin
if necessary, and when the plants are strong enough, remove to their
proper quarters. In February the buds will begin to show, and those
intended for pots should be allowed to reveal their colours before they
are taken up, so that a variety may be obtained. From a retentive soil
each plant with its surrounding earth may be taken out almost exactly
of the size required, and it should be rather smaller than the pot
which has to accommodate it. A light soil must be watered the day
before the operation, or the roots will be injuriously exposed. When
potted, place the plants in a shaded cold frame or greenhouse, allowing
them plenty of space, and withhold water until it is absolutely
necessary. At first they should be kept close, but as the roots become
established gradually give air more and more freely. Cool, slow
treatment is all that is required. Any attempt to hurry the growth will
only weaken the plants and ruin the colour of the flowers. Just before
the buds open, one or two applications of manure water will be
beneficial. When the display in pots is over, if the plants are put out
in a shady border, they may flower again late in the season.
PRIMULA SINENSIS
Chinese Primrose. Greenhouse annual
The history of the Chinese Primula since it first reached this country
has an almost romantic interest. As originally received the flower was,
and now is, insignificant in size and miserably poor in colour. But
florists at once perceived in it immense possibilities. The result of
their labours, extending over many years, may be seen in the
magnificent Single, Double, and Star Primulas which now adorn
conservatories, greenhouses, and homes. From so small a beginning the
range of colours is amazing; there are snowy-white flowers in several
beautiful forms, a pure Cambridge blue, rich violet-blue, many shades
of rose, pink, scarlet, and gorgeous crimson. Almost equally striking
is the improvement in the foliage, especially the introduction of the
fern-leaf, with its diverse shades of green and richly toned
under-surface.
To enjoy the bloom for a long period make successive sowings in May and
June. A further sowing may be made in July if necessary. Use new pots
which have been soaked in water; but if these are not at hand, scrub
some old pots clean, for Primulas are fastidious from the outset, and
it is by apparent trifles that some growers produce plants so immensely
superior to others treated with less care. Provide free drainage, and
place a little dry moss over the crocks. Any fairly good rich soil will
be suitable, but a mixture of equal parts of sound fibrous loam and
leaf-mould, with a small addition of silver sand, is best. Press this
compost firmly into the pots to within half an inch of the top. Water
before sowing, and sprinkle sufficient sand over the surface to cover
the soil. On this sand sow evenly and thinly, for it is well known that
the finest new Primula seed comes up irregularly, and a thin sowing
admits of the removal of plants that may be ready, without disturbing
the remainder. Cover the seed with just enough fine soil to hide the
sand, and gently press the surface. Place the pots in a sheltered part
of the greenhouse, protected from draughts and direct sunlight; a small
glazed frame will be useful for this purpose. While the seed is
germinating the temperature should not rise above 70°, or fall below
50°. Immediately the plants are large enough, prick off round the rim
of small pots, and if convenient place them in a propagating box. Water
with care, and shade if necessary. When established give air, which
should be daily increased until the plants will bear placing on the
greenhouse stage. Transfer singly to thumb pots, and subsequently shift
into larger sizes as may be requisite, but never do this until the pots
are filled with roots, and always put the plants in firmly up to the
collar. During July, August, and up to the middle of September expose
freely to the air in any convenient position where shelter can be given
in unfavourable weather.
Where there is no greenhouse, but only a hot-bed, it is still possible
to grow good Primulas, with care and patience. The instructions given
for treatment in the greenhouse may easily be adapted to the pit or
frame, only there must be a little more watchfulness in affording shade
on sunny days to prevent overheating.
Endeavour to give the plants a robust constitution from the first, for
weak, rickety things cannot produce a satisfactory bloom. Primulas need
a long period of growth before they flower; hence they should never be
subjected to a forcing temperature. Sufficient heat must be provided to
raise the plants, but afterwards the aim should be to render Primulas
as nearly hardy as possible before cold weather sets in. There must,
however, be ample protection against frost, damp, and cutting winds.
Primula stellata (_Star Primula_).—This elegant strain of Primula,
introduced by us in 1895, has attained a high position in popular
favour. Although it is not intended to supersede or compete with the
splendid strains of _P. sinensis_, it is a most valuable addition to
the conservatory, and will be found indispensable for general
decorative work. The plants are unusually floriferous and continue in
bloom for a long time. When cut, the sprays travel well and remain
fresh in water many days. For table adornment Star Primulas are
unsurpassed by any other greenhouse flower at their own period of the
year. The culture is precisely the same as for _P. sinensis_.
Half-hardy Primula.—This section, which embraces a number of very
charming species, includes the well-known _P. obconica grandiflora,_
which is almost perpetual-blooming under glass. Seed of this Primula
may be sown from February to July, from the earliest of which the
plants will flower in autumn and continue to bloom throughout the
winter. In the early stages the seedlings may be managed as already
directed for _P. sinensis_, bearing in mind that excessive watering
should be avoided. Cool greenhouse treatment will suit the plants well.
Another half-hardy variety which has recently attained wide popularity
is _P. malacoides_. The dainty flowers are produced tier upon tier to a
height of about two feet and are very sweetly perfumed. For a winter
display sow in February, and successional sowings may be made until
July. _P. malacoides_ especially resents a forcing temperature.
Therefore the culture should be as nearly hardy as possible, and even
in the seedling stage the plants must have free access of air on all
suitable occasions, or they are very liable to damp off.
Hardy Primula.—A number of very elegant garden Primulas are worthy of
attention. The majority answer well when grown in borders, but they are
especially at home in rock or Alpine gardens. The family is now so
large and so variable in time of blooming that it is possible to have
the different species in flower during almost every month of the year.
As a rule, it is advisable to raise the seedlings in pots or pans
placed in a frame or greenhouse, and to transfer them to the open
ground when thoroughly hardened off.
RANUNCULUS
Half-hardy perennial
The Ranunculus can be grown either from seed or from roots. The seed is
thinly sown from January to March, in boxes four to six inches deep,
filled with good soil. A cool greenhouse or frame is the proper place
for the boxes until the spring is somewhat advanced. A little extra
care is requisite to insure free growth and a hardy constitution, and
the roots should not be turned out of the boxes until they have ceased
growing and are quite ripe; then they may be stored for planting in
November or February. For particulars on the treatment of roots, see
page 348.
RICINUS
Castor-oil Plant. Half-hardy annual
Although this plant flowers freely, it is grown in the sub-tropical
garden principally for its noble ornamental foliage, and also in the
shrubbery border, either alone or in conjunction with other fine
subjects, such as Canna, Solanum, Nicotiana, and Wigandia. Plants of
the dwarfer varieties may also be used with very decorative effect in
conservatories and greenhouses during the summer and autumn months.
To have plants ready for making a show in early summer they must be
raised as half-hardy annuals in February or March. From the
commencement a rich soil and abundant supplies of water are necessary
for the production of stately specimens. The seed is large, and may be
put singly into pots, or three or four in each, and the latter is the
usual practice. A temperature of about 60° will bring them up. If
several plants are grown in a pot, they must be separated while quite
young, and put into small pots filled with very rich soil. It is almost
impossible to have the compost too rich, so long as drainage is quite
safe. When the pot is full of roots, shift to a larger size, and
commence the process of hardening, in readiness for planting out in
June. This is worth some care, for if the plant receives a check when
put out, it may take a long time to recover, and then part of the brief
growing season will be wasted. Many gardeners never raise Ricinus in
heat, but trust entirely to a sowing in the open on the first day of
May. The seeds are put in three inches deep, in groups of three or
four, and finally the plants are thinned to one at each station.
Prepare the soil in advance by deep digging and the incorporation of an
abundant supply of manure. The most effectual way of doing it is to
take out the earth to a depth of eighteen inches or two feet, and fill
in with decayed manure and loam, chiefly the former. Upon this put out
the plant, or sow seed as may be determined. If this is too great a tax
on resources, or the near presence of shrubs renders the proceeding
impossible, drive a bar into the soil, which, if light, can be readily
worked into a fair-sized hole. Fill this with rich stuff nearly to the
top, and over it either put the plant or sow seed. A heavy top-dressing
round each stem is also desirable, and the application of copious
supplies of water will carry the nourishment down to the roots.
Sub-tropical plants are only a source of disappointment under niggardly
treatment, but they amply repay all the care and generosity which a
liberal hand may lavish upon them. The plants will need the support of
stakes to save them from injury in a high wind.
SAINTPAULIA
Greenhouse perennial
A very remarkable perennial, only four inches high, obtained from
eastern tropical Africa. The plant has fleshy leaves, and the flowers,
which are produced in clusters, somewhat resemble the Violet, but are
much larger. Saintpaulia makes a beautiful table ornament, and a row of
pot plants in full bloom forms a charming margin in conservatories,
either for a stage or on the ground. The seedlings flower freely in
about six months from date of sowing, and continue in bloom through the
winter. Sowings may be made from January to March, in well-drained pots
placed in a temperature of 60° to 65°. On no account should the soil be
allowed to become dry. Subsequently the plants may be treated as
recommended for Gloxinias.
SALPIGLOSSIS
Half-hardy annual
A highly ornamental half-hardy annual. The finest strains have large,
open flowers, exhibiting extraordinary combinations of colours which
range from the palest sulphur-white to orange, scarlet, and
purple-violet, all being more or less pencilled and veined with some
strong contrasting colour.
If an early display is wanted, a start should be made at the end of
February or beginning of March, by sowing on a moderate hot-bed. In May
the plants will be ready for flowering quarters. Or sow in April in the
open ground where the plants are to remain, taking care to thin
severely, and the thinnings will be useful for dibbling in
out-of-the-way comers, where they will furnish acceptable material for
table decoration, for which purpose this striking flower is well
adapted.
Salpiglossis make charming pot plants for the greenhouse and
conservatory. For this purpose seed should be sown in August or
September, and under cool-house treatment the plants will bloom
profusely in the following spring.
SALVIA
Hardy annual and half-hardy perennial
From a genus including 450 species a small number of Salvias have won
deserved popularity for beds and borders. In summer and early autumn
the long spikes of brilliant flowers produced by Fireball and Scarlet
Queen make an extremely attractive display, and _S. patens_ is one of
the most superb pure blue flowers seen in gardens. As a bedding plant
_S. argentea_ is extensively grown for its silvery-white foliage, which
completely covers the ground. These and other perennial varieties may
be sown in pans during February and March for transfer to the open in
May, and the plants need the usual treatment of half-hardy perennials.
A favourite annual variety is Blue Beard, growing eighteen inches high
and presenting long spikes of bright purple bracts. The annual Salvias
should also be sown in pans in February or March and transplanted in
May; or seed may be sown in the open border during April.
SCHIZANTHUS
The Butterfly Flower. Half-hardy annual
At many leading horticultural displays in recent years masses of
Schizanthus of extraordinary beauty have been exhibited with striking
success. In conservatories, greenhouses, and on dinner-tables the
plants form conspicuous ornaments and they should be freely grown for
general decorative purposes. On special occasions the pots may be
plunged to create a brilliant show of bloom as temporary beds and they
are also extremely attractive in hanging-baskets.
The usual time for sowing seed to insure fine specimens is the end of
August or early in September. Either well-drained pots or shallow
boxes, filled with a good potting compost, will answer for raising the
seedlings. Sow thinly, on a smooth surface, and cover the seeds with
finely sifted soil. When the young plants appear place the pots or
boxes near the glass where they can have abundance of light and air, so
that from the start the plants may be short and healthy. Seedlings that
are thin and drawn are never worth the space they occupy. Immediately
they are large enough to handle, transfer to shallow boxes, allowing a
space of three inches to each plant. The compost to consist of sound
loam and leaf-soil in equal proportions, with the addition of
sufficient coarse sand to render the mixture porous. For two or three
days keep the boxes in a frame, which must remain closed and be shaded
from sunshine until the seedlings are established, but remove the
shading whenever possible; then give air freely, and on attaining a
height of three inches the first stopping may be done. A fortnight
later the plants will be ready for pots of the 60-size. Treat them as
nearly hardy as weather may permit. Stop the shoots a second time when
about six inches high, with the object of forming bushy plants capable
of yielding a bountiful bloom. When the 60-pots are filled with roots
transfer to the 48-size, and in due time the final shift should be into
pots of the 24-size. Larger pots may, of course, be employed for very
fine specimens. The compost for this final shift ought to consist of
two parts of rich loam, one part of leaf-soil, and one part of
thoroughly decayed manure; the addition of sharp sand will be
necessary. The stems to be tied out to stakes in good time to prevent
injury. Just before the flowering period and while the plants are
actually in bloom, weak liquid manure, instead of water, once or twice
a week will be beneficial. A high temperature is not required, even in
the winter months, to maintain Schizanthus in healthy condition. From
35° to 40° is all the heat they need; in fact, it is only requisite to
keep frost at bay, and this near approach to hardy treatment will
result in fine robust plants.
The Schizanthus may also be sown during March and April in pans placed
in gentle heat, the seedlings being potted on for flowering in the
conservatory or they may be put out in the open border. Towards the end
of April or in May seed may be sown out of doors.
One point in the successful culture of Schizanthus should never be
forgotten. The roots must not be allowed to become pot-bound. Where
this is permitted at any stage of growth it is fatal to the development
of a handsome show of bloom.
SENECIO ELEGANS
Jacobea. Hardy annual
Among the double varieties, the crimson, purple, rose and white
Senecios take the lead for beauty and usefulness. They are remarkably
accommodating plants, adapted for beds or the greenhouse. Sow early in
pans or boxes, give the seedlings liberal treatment, and when bedded
out the plants will produce myriads of bright flowers, until frost puts
a stop to them. Any good soil which does not become pasty will suit,
and full exposure to sunshine is essential to the production of a rich
display of colour. In March or April seed may safely be sown in the
open ground.
The Tall Single Bright Rose Jacobea is invaluable as a cut flower for
table decoration under artificial light. It rivals the Star Cineraria
in form and, being a hardy annual, it may be grown with the utmost
ease.
SILENE
Catchfly. Hardy annual
Not one of the hardy annuals has established a better claim to be sown
in autumn than the Silenes. Alone, they make a very attractive display,
and they can be used with especial effect in beds planted with
Daffodils, Hyacinths, and Tulips. While the Daffodils are in full
beauty the Silenes clothe the ground with a carpet of green, and after
the foliage of the bulbs has been cut off or pinned down the Silenes
furnish a fresh display of floral beauty in advance of the summer
bedders.
Silenes do not thrive on heavy damp soils, but the difficulty can be
surmounted by keeping the plants in pans or boxes under a cold frame
until growing weather sets in. The plants do very well in loam, and
best of all in a dry sandy soil. The spring sowing should be made in
March or April; the autumn sowing in August or early in September.
SOLANUM
Annual and perennial; half-hardy
Solanums are of importance, some as greenhouse plants, and others as
sub-tropical bedders. They are somewhat tender in constitution, and
must have good cultivation in a light rich soil. A sharp look-out for
red spider is necessary, for this pest is very partial to Solanums.
March is early enough to sow the seed, but for ordinary purposes April
is to be preferred. By the middle of June the plants should be strong
enough to put out, and with genial weather will make rapid progress.
Those grown for their berries may be sown from February onwards, as it
is important to secure bushy plants before they begin to flower, and an
early start insures an early ripening of the bright, handsome fruit.
STATICE
Sea Lavender. Hardy and half-hardy annuals and hardy perennial
It would be difficult to decide whether the Sea Lavenders are more
highly valued as border flowers or as cut material for use indoors.
Certain it is that the light and graceful sprays of delicately coloured
flowers are indispensable for house decoration, either when freshly cut
or when dried for mixing with Helichrysums and other everlastings in
winter. Yet Statice are very attractive when growing in the border, the
varieties of branching habit giving a long-continued display of
beautiful flowers.
The half-hardy varieties should be sown from January to March in pans
placed on bottom heat. When large enough prick off the seedlings into
boxes of good light soil, and gradually harden off in readiness for
planting out in May. The hardy annual kinds also answer best when
started in pans during March or April and transferred to the open in
due course. Seed of the hardy perennial varieties should be sown in a
nice light compost any time from April to July. Put out the plants into
flowering positions when they have attained a suitable size.
When grown on in pots, the half-hardy sorts make exceedingly pretty
subjects for house or conservatory decoration.
STOCK
Mathiola. Annual and biennial half-hardy
From the botanical standpoint Stocks comprise two main classes—the
Annual and the Biennial. So accommodating as to treatment is this
extensive family, however, that by selecting suitable sorts and sowing
at appropriate periods, it is not difficult to obtain a succession of
these delightful flowers the year through. With this object in view,
our notes are divided into four sections covering the cycle of the
seasons, as follows: Summer-flowering, or Ten-week; Intermediate
varieties, for autumn-flowering; Winter-flowering; and
Spring-flowering.
Summer-flowering, or Ten-week Stocks.—These annual varieties include a
wonderful range of colours, as well as considerable diversity in the
habit of growth. For their brightness, durability, and fragrance they
are deservedly popular. It is usual to sow the seed under glass from
the middle to the end of March. Pans or shallow boxes, filled with
sweet sandy soil, make the best of seed-beds, and it may be well to say
at once that no plants pay better for care and attention than the
subjects now under consideration. Sow thinly, that the plants may have
room to become stout while yet in the seed-bed, and from the very
outset endeavour to impart a hardy constitution by giving air freely
whenever the weather is suitable. This does not mean that they are to
be subjected to some cutting blast that will cripple the plants beyond
redemption, but that no opportunity should be lost of partial or entire
exposure whenever the atmosphere is sufficiently genial to benefit
them. If a cold frame on a spent hot-bed can be spared, it may be
utilised by pricking off the seedlings into it, or the pans and boxes
may simply be placed under its protection. The nearer the seedlings can
be kept to the glass, the less will be the disposition to become leggy.
In transplanting to the open ground, it is worth some trouble to induce
each plant to carry a nice ball of soil attached to its roots.