although there is little to be said. In many gardens plants appear year
after year from self-sown seeds, and it will therefore be evident that
Mignonette may be grown with the utmost simplicity. As a border plant
we have but to sow where it is to remain, at different times from March
to midsummer; the one important point is to make the bed very firm; in
fact the soil should be trodden hard. It is imperative to thin early
and severely, for any one plant left alone will soon be a foot in
diameter, and in some circumstances cover a much larger area. Where
bees are kept and space can be afforded, seed should be sown in
quantity, for Mignonette honey is of the finest quality in flavour and
fragrance. In pot culture it should be remembered that Mignonette does
not transplant well; therefore, having sown, say, a dozen seeds in each
of a batch of 48-or 32-sized pots, firmly filled with rich porous soil
to which a little lime or mortar rubble has been added, the young
plants must be thinned down to five, or even three, in each pot, as
soon as they begin to grow freely. If small plants are wanted early,
leave five in a pot; if larger specimens are wanted later, leave only
three, or even only one. For winter and spring, sow in August and
September and keep them as hardy as possible until it becomes necessary
to put them under glass for the winter. A further sowing for succession
may be made in January or February. Several strains of different tints
are now at the command of cultivators of this favourite flower.
MIMULUS
Monkey Flower. Hardy perennial
This flower will grow in almost any soil, although a moist retentive
loam and a shady situation are best adapted for it. There are many
varieties, differing in height, and all are worth growing, both in pots
and borders. If sown in February or March, and treated as greenhouse
annuals, they will flower in the first year. It is easy to raise a
large number of plants in a cold frame, and they make a rich display in
borders and beds later in the year. Sowings in the open ground during
summer will supply plants for blooming in the following season, but the
most satisfactory course is to grow them as annuals, and at the end of
the summer consign them to the waste heap. The Mimulus is quite hardy,
and the most ordinary care will suffice for it. Water in plenty it must
have, or the flowering period will be curtailed.
The well-known Musk is a Mimulus (_M. moschatus_), and is as easily
grown from seed as other varieties. It makes a valuable pot plant.
MYOSOTIS
Forget-me-not. Perennials, hardy and half-hardy
AT one time an impression prevailed that all the varieties of Myosotis
were semi-aquatic, and could only be grown satisfactorily in very damp
shady places. And it is quite true that most of them bloom for a longer
period in a moist than in a dry soil. Still, they all flower freely,
and last a considerable time in any garden border.
The only half-hardy variety that need be referred to is Sutton’s Pot
Myosotis, which is a delightful subject for flowering indoors at
Christmas time; and as Forget-me-nots are everywhere welcome, the
practice of growing plants in pots is rapidly increasing. Seed should
be sown in a cold frame in June, and the seedlings can be potted on as
required, taking care from the commencement to avoid crowding as a
precaution against mildew, to which the plants are very liable. The
strain referred to produces fine free-growing specimen plants, and a
batch should always be in reserve for cutting. For table decoration in
winter Forget-me-nots are very telling.
All the hardy varieties may be sown from May to July for a brilliant
display in the following spring. The seed should be put into a prepared
seed-bed under the shelter of a wall or hedge; and in autumn the plants
must be transferred to blooming quarters at the earliest opportunity.
Myosotis make an extremely effective groundwork for spring bulbs, for
which purpose _M. dissitiflora_ is the most valuable.
NASTURTIUM—_see_ TROPÆOLUM
NEMESIA STRUMOSA SUTTONI
Half-hardy annual
THIS beautiful South African annual is remarkable for its floriferous
character, long duration of bloom, and diversity of colour. Since we
introduced it to this country in 1888 it has attained great popularity
as a pot plant for table decoration, and some of the most resplendent
bedding effects in public parks and gardens have been secured with this
flower.
For an early show of bloom sow in pots or pans in March under glass,
using a compost consisting largely of good fibrous loam, with the
addition of a small proportion of wood ashes. No more heat than
necessary should be used, and when the seedlings are large enough to
handle prick them off and gradually harden for planting out in May.
Other sowings may be made in May and June, and at this period of the
year the seed germinates most quickly in boxes placed in a cool shady
spot out of doors. In early summer seed may also be sown in the open
border, and by thinning to a distance of six or eight inches sturdy
plants will be secured, which will remain in bloom until quite late in
autumn.
For winter and early spring flowering in pots seed should be sown in
August or September. There must be no attempt at forcing, or attenuated
worthless plants will result. A further sowing may be made in January
for blooming in the later spring months.
Like the seed of Verbena, Furze, and some other subjects, the
germination of Nemesia under artificial conditions is somewhat
capricious, but no difficulty will be experienced with open-air
sowings.
NICOTIANA
Tobacco. Half-hardy annual
The delicious fragrance of the Tobacco plant, especially during the
morning and evening, has made it a great favourite in the greenhouse
and conservatory, as well as in beds and borders near frequented paths.
As a pot plant too, the Nicotiana is exceedingly useful, the large
sweet-scented white, soft pink, and rich red coloured flowers being
very attractive. A group of plants placed in the porch will, in the
earlier and later hours of the day, as the door is opened, fill the
house with their delightful perfume. Seed may be sown from January to
June, and a continuance of bloom may thus be secured during nearly nine
months of the year. Prick off the seedlings as soon as they are fit to
handle, for if sown too thickly they are liable to damp off rapidly.
Gradually harden off if required for planting out in May or June. In
some places, more especially in the South of England, Tobacco seed sown
on an open sunny border early in May will produce fine plants that will
flower freely in August.
PANSY
Viola tricolor. Hardy perennial
The popularity of this flower has been greatly extended and the culture
simplified since it became the practice to raise the required number of
plants every year from seed. For all ordinary purposes the trouble of
striking cuttings and keeping stocks in pots through the winter is mere
waste of labour and pit-room. The Pansy is a little fastidious, but not
severely so. It thrives in a cool climate, with partial shade in high
summer, and in a rich, moist, sandy soil. Notwithstanding all this, the
Pansy will grow almost anywhere and anyhow; but as fine flowers of this
old favourite are highly prized, the plant should be treated with
reasonable care to do justice to its great merits.
A thick sowing is very liable to damp off: therefore sow thinly, either
in pots or boxes, in February and March. The thin sowing, moreover,
renders it possible to take out the forward plants without disturbing
the remainder. In due course transplant into pans or boxes of good
soil, and place in some cool spot where the plants may gradually harden
off. When they have become stocky, remove to beds or borders, with
balls of earth attached to the roots. Should the surrounding soil
become set by heavy rain or by watering, a slight stirring of the
surface will prove beneficial.
Seed sown in the open ground during the summer months will readily
germinate, and the seedlings need no attention beyond thinning to about
six inches apart until they are ready for transferring to their proper
positions, where they will produce a mass of bloom in the following
spring.
The Pansy puts forth its buds very early in the year. Whether they are
particularly tasty, or the scarcity of young vegetable growth gives
them undue prominence, we know not, but certain it is that sparrows
show a marked partiality for them. And having once acquired a taste for
the buds, these impudent marauders will not leave them alone; they
evidently regard Pansies as the perfection of a winter salad. Their
depredations can be prevented by an application of water flavoured with
quassia or paraffin oil, which must be repeated after rain.
PELARGONIUM
Greenhouse perennial
All kinds of Pelargonium may be raised from seed with the certainty of
giving satisfaction if the work be well done. An amateur, who
contributed to the production of symmetrical flowers in the Zonal
section, found that under ordinary treatment Zonals began to bloom in
one hundred days from the date of sowing the seed, and some of those
that flowered earliest proved to be the finest. The cultivator will
soon discover that one rule is important, and that is to sow seed saved
from really good strains. The simplest greenhouse culture suffices to
raise Pelargoniums from seed. Some growers sow in July or August;
others in January or February. The summer sowing necessitates careful
winter keeping, and the flowers appear earlier than those from
spring-sown seed. But the spring sowing is the easier to manage, and is
recommended to all beginners. Any light, sandy loam will serve for
these plants, and it is well to flower the principal bulk of them in
48-and 32-sized pots, for if grown to a great size the date of
flowering is deferred without any corresponding advantage.
PENTSTEMON
Hardy perennial
Penstemons when grown as half-hardy annuals are a valuable addition to
beds and borders, where they produce a brilliant effect in summer. In
borders it is not advisable to plant singly, but they should be
employed in groups of not less than one dozen. It is also important to
sow a strain consisting principally of scarlet and pink shades with
white markings, as well as white flowers; under fair conditions there
will be a profusion of richly coloured blooms on stately spikes about
two feet high. Sow in heat during February or March and plant out in
genial weather. It is not necessary to keep them after flowering has
finished, although seedling Pentstemons on comparatively dry soil in
favourable districts scarcely feel the winter. Seed may also be sown in
June, in the manner usual with hardy perennials, and the plants will
bloom in advance of those which are spring-sown.
PETUNIA
Half-hardy perennial
The Petunia affords another example of the immense strides accomplished
in the art of seed-saving. Formerly the colours were few, and the
blossoms comparatively insignificant. Now the single strains produce
large flowers, beautiful in form, including self colours and others
which are striped, blotched, and veined, in almost endless diversity.
Some are plain-edged, others elegantly fringed. The double varieties
also come so nearly true to their types that there is little necessity
for keeping a stock through the winter. Plants raised from seed of the
large-flowered strain embrace a wide range of resplendent colours, and
the doubles are perfect rosettes, exquisitely finished in form and
marking.
The only way of obtaining double seedlings is to save seed from the
finest single blooms fertilised with pollen of good double flowers.
Plants raised from such seed may be relied on to produce a fair
proportion of double flowers of great beauty, and those which come
single will be of the large-flowered type.
The dwarf varieties attain the height of five to eight inches only, and
make admirable edging and bedding plants. The taller strains range from
one to two feet, and are handsome subjects for border and shrubbery
work. Both dwarf and tall sections are sufficiently brilliant and
free-flowering to produce a beautiful display as pot plants in the
greenhouse and conservatory.
For indoor decoration, the third week in January will be early enough
to commence operations. Two parts of leaf-mould, one of loam, and one
of sharp sand, make an excellent soil for them. Fill the pots or
seed-pans within half an inch of the rim, and press the soil firmly
down. Sow thinly on an even surface, and cover the seed with almost
pure sand. Keep the pots or pans uniformly moist with a fine rose and a
light hand, and in a temperature of about 60°. Greater heat will render
the seedlings weak and straggling. From this condition it will take
some skill and much time to redeem them; indeed, they may not produce a
good display of flowers until the season is well-nigh over. Just as the
seed is germinating is a critical time for Petunias, and a little extra
watchfulness then will be fully repaid.
In February the sun has not sufficient power to do mischief, so that
shading is generally unnecessary. An even temperature and freedom from
draughts should insure seedlings strong enough to prick off by the end
of that month. Put the plants into seed-pans about an inch apart, so
that the first leaves just touch the soil, still using a light compost.
In April they should be ready for transferring to small 60-pots.
Subsequently they must be potted on as growth demands, until they reach
the 48-or even the 32-size. After re-potting place the plants in a
sheltered part of the house or frame, where shade can, if necessary, be
given until the roots are established. Frequent sprinklings of water,
and a temperature of 60° or 65°, will give them a vigorous start. The
lights ought to be put down in good time in the evening, but this must
be done with judgment, or the plants will lose their healthy colour and
assume a yellowish tinge. Insufficient drainage has a precisely similar
effect. In about ten days air may be given more freely, and then no
suitable opportunity of exposure should be lost.
In raising Petunias for bedding, the same conditions are applicable;
but as it is useless to put them into the open ground until the weather
is warm and settled, the sowing need not be made until the end of
February or the beginning of March. And for bedding there is no
occasion to put the plants into larger pots than the 60-size. It will
be necessary to give these seedlings shade in their young state, after
they have been pricked off or potted.
The beds or borders intended for Petunias will be better without recent
manure, for this tends to the excessive production of foliage and
defers the flowering until late in the season. Do not be tempted by the
first sunny day to put them out, but wait for settled weather. A
cutting east wind, such as we sometimes have in May, will ruin them
irretrievably. Each plant of the tall class will occupy a space of two
feet, and the dwarfs may be one foot apart.
In potting Petunias, those which are weakly among the singles will
probably produce the most valued colours, and from seed sown for
doubles it may be accepted as a rule that from the feebler seedlings
the finest rosette-shaped flowers may be expected.
All Petunias are impatient of being pot-bound, and this applies
especially to the double varieties. They will, if treated generously,
do ample justice to the 8-or even the 10-inch size. The growth should
not be hurried at any stage, and if the foliage has a dark, healthy,
green colour, free from blight, there will be magnificent flowers four
or five inches across. The final shift should be into a sound compost,
consisting, if possible, of good loam and leaf-mould in equal parts,
with sufficient sand added to insure drainage. About a fortnight later
commence giving weak manure water once a week instead of the ordinary
watering, and as the buds appear it may be increased in strength, and
be administered twice a week until the flowers expand.
Petunias are accommodating in their growth, and may be trained into
various forms. The pyramid and fan-shape are most common, and the least
objectionable. We confess, however, to a feeling of antipathy to
fanciful shapes in plants, no matter what they may be. It is a
necessity of our artificial conditions of culture that many of them
should be trained and tied to produce shapely specimens, but the more
nearly the gardener’s art approaches Nature, the greater pleasure we
derive from his labours.
PHLOX DRUMMONDII
Half-hardy annual
Those who are acquainted with the older forms of this annual might fail
to recognise a friend under its new and improved appearance. There are
now several beautiful types, each possessing characteristics of its
own, and all producing flowers that are perfect in form and brilliant
in colour. The large-flowered section produces splendid bedding plants,
but the dwarf compact varieties are also highly prized for effective
massing and general usefulness. The latter attain a height seldom
exceeding six inches, and are therefore eminently suitable for edgings
and borders, as well as for bedding. They bloom profusely for a long
period, not only in the open ground, but also as pot plants in the
greenhouse or conservatory, where they are conspicuous for the richness
of their display.
For early flowering sow seed of all the varieties in February or March
in well-drained pans or shallow boxes. Any good sifted soil, made firm,
will suit them, and every seed should be separately pressed in,
allowing about an inch between each; then cover with fine soil. This
will generally give sufficient space between the plants to save
pricking off; but if the growth becomes so strong as to render a
transfer necessary, lift every alternate plant, fill the vacant spots
with soil, and those left will have room to develop. Pot the plants
that are taken out, give them a start in a frame, and shade from direct
sunshine. Phloxes should not be coddled; the best results are always
obtained from sturdy plants which have been hardened as far as possible
by free access of air from their earliest stage of growth. This does
not imply that they are to be rudely transferred from protection to the
open air. The change can easily be managed gradually until some genial
evening makes it perfectly safe to expose them fully. A space of about
two feet each way is required for each plant of the large-flowered
class, but a more modest allowance of nine or twelve inches will
suffice for the dwarf varieties. Before they are put out the plants
must be free from aphis; if not, fumigation should be resorted to once
or twice until there is a clearance of the pest. Seed of the annual
Phlox may also be sown in the open ground during the latter part of
May, and the plants will flower abundantly from mid-August until frost
destroys them.
The employment of Phlox as pot plants has already been alluded to, but
special mention must be made of Purity, which is by far the most
valuable of all the varieties for blooming indoors. The pure white
flowers, which are sweetly scented, may be produced at almost any
period of the year. They are, perhaps, more highly appreciated at
Easter than at any other time, and to insure a display at that season
seed should be sown in September or October. The plants will do well if
grown on in a cold frame, the final shift being into pots of the
48-size. When grown under glass, Phlox should be given treatment as
nearly hardy as possible, all that is necessary in regulating
temperature being the exclusion of frost from the greenhouse or frame.
PHLOX, PERENNIAL
Hardy perennial
The seed of perennial Phlox is very slow and erratic in germinating,
and from a sowing made in September the seedlings may not appear until
the following spring. Seed may also be sown in the first week of March
in shallow boxes, and put into moderate heat. In due time prick out
into boxes filled with light rich soil, and having hardened them in the
usual way, plant out a foot apart in a good bed, and help, if needful,
with an occasional watering.
PICOTEE
Dianthus Caryophyllus fl. pi. Hardy perennial
Seedling Picotees are extremely robust and free-flowering, and seed
saved from the best types will produce handsome specimens. The
instructions for growing Carnation—sowing in pans from April to August
and transplanting when large enough—are equally applicable to the
Picotee.
PINK
Dianthus plumarius. Hardy perennial
This old English flower is valued in every garden. Both the double and
single varieties are easily raised from seed and the plants bloom with
the greatest freedom. Seed may be sown any time from April to August.
Treat the seedlings in the manner advised for Carnations, and in due
course transfer to open quarters. The foliage maintains its colour
during the severest winter, and is therefore worth consideration for
furnishing the border, to say nothing of the abundant display of
perfumed flowers which the plants afford in early summer.
POLYANTHUS
Primula (veris) elatior. Hardy perennial
A sowing in February or March in pans will produce strong specimens for
flowering in the following year. Or seed may be sown from May to July
on a shady border. Prick off the seedlings when large enough to handle.
The plants should never flag for want of water, and green fly must be
kept down by syringing. Some good solution will be necessary against
red spider if through starvation in a dry situation it has been
permitted to gain a footing. All the varieties can be grown in a bed
with a cool shaded aspect. They do not require a rich soil; a strong
and fibrous loam with a little leaf-mould is sufficient. On passing out
of flower the plants will split up into several heads, when they may be
separated and potted singly. Exquisite colour effects can be created by
planting Polyanthus in association with beds of Tulips for flowering in
April.
POPPY
Papaver. Hardy annual and hardy perennial
The recent developments of this flower have brought it into great and
deserved popularity, and it may be safely affirmed that few other
subjects in our gardens afford a more imposing display of brilliant
colouring during the blooming period. The delicate beauty of the
Shirley Poppies is alone sufficient to create a reputation for the
entire class, and the huge flowers of the double varieties make a
gorgeous show. All the varieties are eminently adapted for enlivening
shrubbery borders and the sides of carriage-drives.
Seeds of Annual Poppies should be sown where the plants are intended to
flower, because it is difficult to transplant with any measure of
success. During March or April sow in lines or groups, _and thin to
about a foot apart_. Large clumps of some of the bolder colours should
be sown in spots that are visible from a distance, and they will
present glowing masses of flowers.
By sowing seeds of Perennial Poppies in pans in March, and putting out
the seedlings when large enough, the plants will flower the same year.
The more general practice, however, is to sow very thinly on a
well-prepared border any time from May to August. Keep the seedlings
free from weeds, and thin out if necessary. The plants may be
transferred to permanent quarters early in autumn or in the spring
months.
PORTULACA
Purslane. Half-hardy annual
This is a splendid subject when the weather favours it. In a dry hot
season, and on a sandy soil, Portulacas can be grown as easily as
Cress. Sowings are sometimes made early in the year in greenhouses or
frames; but as a rule it is a vain attempt. Wait until May or June,
when the weather appears settled; then put the seed into the open
border, and the lighter the soil, and the hotter the season, the more
brilliant will be the display of flowers. Sow on raised beds, in rows
six or nine inches apart, and cover the seed with sand or fine earth.
If the plants appear to be injuriously close they must be thinned.
Should a period of rain ensue, the raised beds have a distinct
advantage over a flat surface, and rows afford opportunity for stirring
the soil and keeping down weeds.
PRIMROSE
Primula vulgaris. Hardy perennial