the dignity of an exclusive exhibition. But in addition to their merits
as show flowers, Carnations make conspicuous ornaments in the garden
and the home, and it has been found that seed saved with skill from the
finest varieties will produce plants yielding hundreds of flowers of
which the grower need not feel ashamed. Since the introduction of the
early-flowering class, which can easily be had in bloom within six
months from date of sowing, an immense impetus has been given to the
culture of Carnations from seed, and with judicious management it is
not a difficult matter to insure a succession of these delightful
subjects almost the year through. For the decoration of greenhouses and
for providing cut flowers, seedling Carnations have a special value,
which has only to be known to be universally appreciated. No trouble
should be experienced with high-class seeds, which germinate freely and
save much time and labour in comparison with the more tedious process
of propagation; while an occasional new break may at times reward the
raiser.
The proverb that what is worth doing is worth doing well is peculiarly
exemplified in the cultivation of Carnations, the difference between
the results of good and bad work being immense. We therefore advise the
preparation of a compost consisting of about three parts of turfy loam,
to one part each of cow-manure and sweet leaf-mould, with a small
addition of fine grit. A compost that has been laid up for a year,
according to the orthodox practice of florists, is very much to be
desired; but it may be prepared off-hand if care be taken to have all
the materials in a sweet, friable state, free from pastiness, and as
far as possible free from vermin. By laying it in a heap, and turning
two or three times, the vermin will be pretty well got rid of. Sow from
April until August in 4-1/2 inch pots, which must be thoroughly
drained. The seed must be very thinly covered, and sheets of glass
should be laid over to check evaporation. Place the pots in a closed
frame, or if the season be genial a sheltered border will suffice.
Immediately the plants are large enough to handle, prick them off into
seed-pans, or round the edge of 48-size pots. Place these in a cold pit
or in the greenhouse. Give shade and water until the plants have formed
six or eight leaves, and then choose a moist day for planting out.
To insure flowering plants in the following summer it is necessary to
have them strong and robust before the winter sets in. As the blooming
stems rise they must be carefully tied to tall sticks, stout enough to
carry a cover for the bloom, if the plants are not flowered under
glass. When the buds show they should be thinned, leaving as a rule the
top, third, and fourth buds. The second is often too near the first,
and some will not carry the fourth with vigour. When the petals nearly
fill the calyx, each one must be carefully tied with a thin strip of
material a little more than halfway down, to prevent the calyx from
bursting, which disqualifies the flower for exhibition.
The early-flowering class is extremely valuable for the ease with which
it can be grown. The seedlings offer the advantage of being far more
floriferous than plants that have been propagated by the orthodox
method, and they are quite immune from the disease which often
decimates stocks raised from layers and cuttings. Two strains—Vanguard
and Improved Marguerite—possess these characteristics in a very high
degree. All the usual colours are included, and they not only make a
very imposing display in the borders but are of great value for table
decoration. Within about six months from the time seed is sown an
admirable form of delightfully scented Carnation is at the command of
every gardener, and a succession of these popular flowers is available
long after the perennial varieties have ceased to bloom. Plants from
seed sown in gentle heat in January or February will flower freely in
the autumn of the same year, and if lifted and potted they will
continue in bloom during the winter as ornaments of the greenhouse or
conservatory. From another sowing in autumn there will be a display in
the following spring.
CELOSIA PLUMOSA
Plumed Cockscomb. Greenhouse annual
The conditions which suit a liberally grown Cockscomb will produce long
graceful plumes of _Celosia plumosa_, but the starving system will not
answer with this plant. Sow in February or March, and by means of a
steady heat, regular attention with water, and a rather moist
atmosphere, the specimens should be grown without a check from
beginning to end. When they reach the final pots an occasional dose of
weak manure water will help them, both in size and colour, but it must
be discontinued when the flowers begin to show their beauty. As a rule
it will be found more easy to manage this plant on a moderate-sized
hot-bed than in a greenhouse. Repotting should always be done in time
to prevent the roots from growing through the bottom of the pots.
CELOSIA CRISTATA—see COCKSCOMB, _page_ 254
CHRYSANTHEMUM
Hardy perennial and hardy annual
The tedious method of propagating Begonias, Gloxinias, and Primulas by
cuttings or layers has been replaced by the simpler and more
satisfactory procedure of sowing seeds, which insures all the finest
flowers in far greater variety than were obtained under the obsolete
treatment. A similar revolution is now proceeding in the culture of
Chrysanthemums. Many growers are relying entirely on seedlings raised
from sowings early in the year for their autumn display. The culture of
_C. indicum_ from seed is as simple as that of Primulas or Stocks, and
the variety and delicate charm of the seedlings far surpass the formal
plants of years ago. Gardeners who require large numbers for decorative
purposes may use seedling Chrysanthemums with excellent effect.
Seed should be sown in January or February, using a compost consisting
of two parts leaf-soil to one part of loam. Place the pots or pans in a
temperature of 65° to 70°. As soon as the seedlings appear they should
be moved to a somewhat lower temperature—about 55° to 60°. When the
young plants are large enough to handle, prick off into trays at about
three inches apart, using a little more loam in the soil. The most
convenient size for the purpose is fifteen inches long by nine inches
wide and three inches deep. These trays produce a quicker root action
than pots. After growth has started, place them in cold frames.
Immediately the plants have made five or six leaves transfer singly to
three-inch pots, and when nicely rooted they may be stopped once. About
June shift into six-inch pots, adding a small quantity of coarse silver
sand to the potting soil. Ten days later place them out of doors on a
bed of ashes. Towards the end of July transfer to 9-1/2 inch pots for
flowering, using soil of the composition already advised. Keep them
standing on ashes or boards, if possible at the north side of a hedge
or house. When thoroughly rooted a little manure water may be given
once a week. In October stand the plants in a cool house, and in the
first week of November move them to flowering quarters, keeping the
temperature from 55° to 60°.
If required for blooming in the open, prick the seedlings off as soon
as they will bear handling, and in May have them planted out in final
positions, giving a little protection at first. They will yield a
profusion of bloom which will prove invaluable for decorative purposes
throughout the autumn months.
The Perennial Chrysanthemums include the well-known Marguerite, or
Ox-eye Daisy (_C. leucanthemum_), of which several new varieties have
been introduced in recent years. Not only have these flowers been
greatly improved in size and form, but there are now early-and
late-flowering varieties which will give a succession of bloom from May
until early autumn. The seed may be sown at any time from April to July
on a carefully prepared bed of light fertile soil, and when the
seedlings are large enough they should be transferred to permanent
quarters for flowering in the following year. In the perennial border
the plants make handsome specimens, and the long-stemmed flowers are
also invaluable for vase decoration when cut.
Several of the Annual Chrysanthemums make superb displays in borders,
especially when planted in large clumps, and they deserve to be grown
extensively in odd corners to furnish a supply of charming flowers for
bouquets and arrangement in vases. There is a considerable choice of
colours, which come quite true, and the plants may be treated in all
respects as hardy annuals. When grown in pots, the Star and Dunnettii
varieties make most attractive subjects for the decoration of the
greenhouse in winter and early spring. For this purpose seed should be
sown in August and September.
CINERARIA
Greenhouse annual
The comparative ease with which the Cineraria can be well grown,
together with the exceeding beauty and variety of its flowers, will
always insure for it a high position in public favour. It is now so
generally raised from seed that no other mode of culture need be
alluded to. The plant is rapid in growth, very succulent, thirsty,
requires generous feeding, and will not endure extremes of heat or
cold. A compost of mellow turfy loam, either yellow or brown, with a
fair addition of leaf-mould, will grow it to perfection. If leaf-mould
cannot be obtained, turfy peat will make a fairly good substitute. Soil
from an old Melon bed will also answer, with the addition of sharp grit
such as the sifted sweepings from gravel walks; the disadvantage of a
very rich soil is that it tends to the production of too much foliage.
The usual period for sowing is during the months of May and June, and,
as a rule, the plants raised in May will be found the most valuable. A
June sowing must not be expected to produce flowers until the following
March or April. It is quite possible to have Cinerarias in bloom in
November and December, and those who care for a display at that early
period should sow in April.
Cinerarias grow so freely that it is not necessary to prick the
seedlings off round the edges of pots or pans; but immediately the
plants begin to make their second leaves, transfer direct to thumb
pots, using rather coarse soil, and in doing this take care not to
cover the hearts of the plants. Place the pots in a close frame; attend
to shading, and sprinkle with soft water both morning and evening until
well established. In the second week after potting, gradually diminish
the heat and give more air. Too high a temperature, and even too much
shade, will produce thin and weak leaf-stalks. If the plants are so
crowded that they touch one another it will almost certainly be
injurious, and render them an easy prey to some of their numerous
enemies. It is far better to grow a few really fine specimens that will
produce a handsome display of superb flowers, than to attempt a large
number of feeble plants that will prove a constant source of trouble,
and in the end yield but a poor return in bloom. Endeavour to grow them
as nearly hardy as the season will allow, even admitting the night air
freely on suitable occasions. Immediately the thumb pots are filled
with roots, shift to a larger size, and it is important that this
operation should not be delayed a day too long. To the practised eye
the alteration of the colour of the leaves to a pale green is a
sufficient intimation that starvation has commenced, and that prompt
action is necessary to save the plants. It is the custom of some
growers to transfer at once to the size in which they are intended to
bloom. There is, however, some danger to the inexperienced in
over-potting, and therefore one intermediate shift is advisable. As a
rule 32-size pots are large enough, but the 24-or even the 16-size is
allowable when very fine specimens are required. The seedlings should
be in their final pots not later than the end of November.
It will help to harden and establish the plants if they are placed in
the open air during August and September. A north border under the
shelter of a wall or building is the most suitable spot, but avoid a
hedge of any kind. Clear away suckers, and if many buds are presented,
every third one may be removed when very fine blooms are wanted. From
the first appearance of the buds, manure water can be given with
advantage once or twice a week until the flowers show colour, and then
it should be discontinued.
Although Cinerarias are thrifty plants, they are fastidious about
trifles. If possible give them new pots, or see that old ones are made
scrupulously clean. Even hard water will retard free growth, oftentimes
to the perplexity of the cultivator.
A host of enemies attack Cinerarias; indeed, there is scarcely a pest
known to the greenhouse but finds a congenial home upon this plant.
Mildew is more common in some seasons than in others. As a rule, it
appears during July and August, especially after insufficient
ventilation, or when the plants have been left too long in one place or
too near to each other. Obviously weakness invites attack, and the
necessity of robust and vigorous growth is thus effectually taught. On
the first appearance of a curled leaf, dust the foliage and soil with
sulphur, and give no water overhead until a cure has been effected. The
aphis is easily killed by fumigation carried out on a quiet evening.
Some gardeners prefer to give an hour or two once a week to the removal
of the pest by means of a soft brush. From three to four dozen plants
are easily cleansed by hand in the time named.
Star Cinerarias (_C. stellata_) are grown under precisely the same
conditions as the Florists’ or Show Cinerarias, and this type of flower
is highly valued for its singular gracefulness and beautiful decorative
effect. In the conservatory and on the table it is an indispensable
plant. The sprays admit of most charming arrangements in vases with any
kind of ornamental foliage, and maintain their beauty for a long time
in water.
Intermediate Cinerarias.—These new types of Cineraria, which in habit
are intermediate between the Large-flowered and Stellata classes, make
admirable subjects for table decoration, as well as for the adornment
of the conservatory or greenhouse. In this class the Feltham Beauty
strain undoubtedly has a great future before it. Originated at the
Feltham Nurseries, this strain has attracted considerable attention at
the numerous horticultural meetings where it has been exhibited, and
since it passed into our hands a few years ago some very beautiful
colours not to be found among the ordinary Stellata varieties have been
added to it. The distinctive feature of the flowers is the white
centre, which greatly enhances the vividness of the colouring of the
petals. For the Intermediate section the same methods of culture as
advised for the other classes of Cineraria will apply.
CLARKIA
C. elegans. C. pulchella. Hardy annuals
The two distinct classes of Clarkia named above include several
varieties that have long been freely grown in gardens as summer
annuals. But the very beautiful recent introductions in the Elegans
class have lifted these flowers to a higher plane of usefulness for
producing brilliant sheets of colour in beds, borders, shrubberies, and
beside carriage drives. Although all the Clarkias bloom profusely in
ordinary garden soil they well repay liberal treatment. Seed may be
sown from March to May, or in September if an early display is wanted.
In good ground each plant of the Pulchella varieties should be allowed
a space of eight or ten inches, but rather more room must be given to
the Elegans class to do the plants justice.
The Elegans varieties are of special value when treated as pot plants
for conservatory decoration in May and June. From seed sown in August
or early in September the plants can be slowly grown into magnificent
specimens four feet high and almost as much in diameter. Our own
practice is to sow thinly in clean well-drained 48-size pots. These are
placed in a temperature of from 50° to 55°, and when the seedlings are
large enough to handle they are pricked off into shallow boxes about
three inches apart, the base of the boxes being freely perforated to
insure ample drainage. The most suitable soil is composed of equal
parts of sound loam and leaf-mould, with the addition of a gallon of
coarse sand to each bushel of the mixed soil. After the plants are well
established, ventilate freely to secure robust growth. When three
inches high pinch out the points, and a little later transfer
separately to small pots, keeping them close for a few days and as near
the glass as possible. As the roots develop, transfer again to larger
pots, and then the second and final stopping of the shoots must be
done. Should very large plants be wanted they can be flowered in
16-size pots, using a compost slightly heavier than that advised at a
younger stage of growth. The night temperature during winter should be
about 45º, giving air freely by day whenever possible to do so with
safety. As the branches need support, sticks of a suitable length must
be provided, and the stems tied out in good time to prevent them from
breaking off.
CLERODENDRON FALLAX
Stove shrub
A very handsome erect shrub, which is extensively grown in tropical
gardens. In this country it attains a height of about two feet, and is
easily raised from seed in a warm greenhouse or conservatory, where it
proves to be a really beautiful and striking plant.
Sow in pots or pans in March or April and transfer to single pots while
small. From the commencement a very rich soil is necessary to insure
robust growth and intense colour in the panicles of brilliant scarlet
flowers. The plants bloom in August or September of the same year. When
the leaves fall, if the intention be to store through winter, remove to
a temperature of 55°; but raising plants annually is more satisfactory
and entails less trouble than storing.
Like many other tropical plants, Clerodendron fallax is subject to
attack by mealy bug, and this pest may be dealt with by hand picking or
by washing the leaves with insecticide two evenings in succession.
Aphis are also troublesome and should be cleared by fumigation.
COCKSCOMB
Celosia cristata. Tender annual
This fine old-fashioned flower has won renewed popularity of late
years, probably as the result of a number of well-grown plants
exhibited at horticultural shows. Those who can produce handsome
Cinerarias, Balsams, and Calceolarias, will be likely to turn out grand
Cockscombs, strongly coloured and on dwarf, leafy plants. Liberal
culture is essential, and the first start should be made in a compost
consisting mainly of rich light friable loam. Sow the seeds on a rather
brisk heat in February or March, a newly-made but sweet hot-bed being
the best place for the seed-pans. Prick out early into very small pots,
and shift on so as to encourage growth without a check, and keep the
plants on the hot-bed until the combs are formed. It is well not to
shift beyond the 8-1/2-inch size; then, by allowing the roots to become
pot-bound, the combs are soon produced. It matters not how select the
seed, or how careful the culture, a certain proportion of unsymmetrical
combs will appear; but these, if richly coloured, will be useful for
decorative purposes, and should have all the attention needed to keep
their leaves fresh and the combs pure in colour.
COLEUS
Stove perennial
There is so much difficulty in carrying Coleus through the winter in
vigorous health that the modern plan of treating it as an annual is
advantageous for the saving of trouble and fire-heat in winter, and
also because it offers the charm of constant diversity. The fact is
that our winter days are too short and gloomy to maintain the splendour
of colouring which makes Coleus so attractive and valuable; and seed
from a good strain may be relied on to produce plants which will
delight the eye all through the summer and autumn. Some experienced men
sow in February and succeed, but the majority of cultivators will show
prudence by waiting until March, when increased daylight favours the
rapid growth of the plants. Flowerpots are better than pans, as the
greater depth affords opportunity of securing effectual drainage. The
pots should be nearly half-filled with crocks, covered with a layer of
moss to prevent the soil from being washed away. Fill them with light
turfy loam, mingled with almost an equal bulk of sharp sand. Make an
even surface, on which sow thinly, and shake over the seed a slight
covering of fine soil. Place the pots in a temperature of not less than
65°. Watering needs particular care, because of the peculiar liability
of the young plants to damp off, especially in dull weather. The
strongest seedlings are pretty certain to be those in which green and
black predominate, and they may without scruple be removed to make way
for the slower-growing but better-coloured specimens. These should be
transplanted round the edges of pots while quite small; and such as
show delicate tints, especially those having pink markings on a golden
ground, are worth nursing through the early stage with extra care. The
pots must be shaded from direct sunshine, but should be kept near the
glass. In May the plants will be large enough for 48-sized pots, beyond
which there is no occasion to go. When the pots become full of roots
the foliage increases in brilliancy, whereas larger pots encourage free
growth to the detriment of colour. A dry atmosphere is particularly
injurious, while an occasional dose of manure water will maintain the
plants in health.
COLUMBINE—_see_ AQUILEGIA
COSMEA
Cosmos. Half-hardy annual
Cosmeas make a striking show in the mixed border, and the flowers are
also in large request for indoor decoration. Disappointment is often
caused, however, through the plants failing to bloom until late in the
season, and therefore it is important to grow an early-flowering strain
in order to insure a long-continued display. The most successful method
of raising plants is to sow the seed in pots during February, pricking
off the plants as soon as large enough. When the first flowers appear
in May, transplant to positions in the open immediately danger from
frost is past.
CYCLAMEN
Half-hardy perennial
Gardeners of experience will remember the time when the predominant
colours of Cyclamen were purple and magenta, and it was impossible for
the most friendly critic to feel enthusiastic concerning these flowers.
But the new colours—Salmon Pink, Salmon Scarlet, the intense Vulcan,
Rose Queen and Cherry Red, together with Giant White and White
Butterfly—are now regarded as the brightest and most beautiful
decorative subjects for the long period of dark winter days of which
Christmas is the centre. As cut flowers for the dinner-table Cyclamens
have no rival at that period of the year, and as specimen plants in the
home they are delightful for their free-flowering habit, compact form,
and elegant foliage.
Seed may be sown at any time during autumn or the early part of the
year, and the plants will not only flower within twelve months, but if
properly grown will produce more bloom than can be obtained from old
bulbs. We do not advise more than three sowings, the first and most
important of which should be made in August or the beginning of
September. To obtain a succession of plants, sow again in October and
for the last time early in the new year. Those who have not hitherto
grown Cyclamen for midwinter blooming will be well pleased with the
result. It is quite as easy to flower them in the winter as in the
longer days, and this is more than can be said about most plants.
The best soil for Cyclamen is a rich, sound loam, with a liberal
admixture of leaf-mould, and sufficient silver sand to insure free
drainage. Press this mixture firmly into pots or seed-pans, and dibble
the seed about an inch apart and not more than a quarter of an inch
deep. Cover the surface with a thin layer of leaves or fibrous material
to check rapid evaporation, and later on keep the soil free from moss.
The autumn sowings may at first be placed in a frame having a
temperature of not less than 45°. At the end of a fortnight transfer
the pans to any warm and moist position in the greenhouse or
propagating house.