heat, and will not endure extremes of any kind. Sudden changes are
always fatal to its growth. In winter the temperature should not be
allowed to fall below 56°, or to rise above 70° at any time. The more
evenly the heat can be maintained the better, and it is desirable to
give all the light possible. In summer, however, although a warm and
humid atmosphere is still necessary, the light may with advantage be
somewhat subdued, but shading must not be overdone, or the constitution
of the plant will suffer.
Cyclamen seed not only germinates slowly, but it also grows in the most
capricious manner; sometimes a few plants come up long after others
have made a good start. Do not be impatient of their appearance, but
when some seedlings are large enough for removal transfer to thumb
pots, taking care not to insert them too deeply. As the plants develop,
shift into larger pots, ending finally in the 48-size. In the later
stages mix less sand with the soil, and when potting always leave the
crown of the corm clear. Keep the plants near the glass, and as the sun
becomes powerful it will be necessary to provide shade and prevent
excess of heat. Never allow the seedlings to suffer from want of water,
or to become a prey to aphis. To avoid the latter, occasional, or it
may be frequent, fumigations must be resorted to. About the end of May
should find the most forward plants ready for shifting into 60-pots.
Give all the air possible to promote a sturdy growth. In doing this,
however, avoid draughts of cold air. From the end of June to the middle
of July the finest plants should be ready for their final shift into
48-pots, in which they will flower admirably. The growth during August
and September will be very free, and then occasional assistance with
weak manure water will add to the size and colour of the flowers. As
the evenings shorten, save the plants from chills, which result in
deformed blossoms.
The whole secret of successful Cyclamen culture may be summed up in a
few words: constant and unvarying heat, a moist atmosphere, and
abundant supplies of water without stagnation; free circulation of air,
avoiding cold draughts; light in winter, and shade in summer, with
freedom from insect pests. These conditions will keep the plants in
vigorous growth from first to last, and the result will be so bountiful
a bloom as to prove the soundness of the rapid system of cultivation.
This routine may be varied by the experienced cultivator, but the
principles will remain the same in all cases, because the natural
constitution of the plant gives the key to its management.
DAHLIA
Half-hardy perennial
Both the double and the single classes of Dahlia are increasingly grown
as annuals from seed, and this practice has the great advantage of
being economical in time and in the saving of space during winter. The
seedlings grow freely and quickly, and will flower quite as early as
those grown by the more lengthy and troublesome method from tubers.
Even those who possess a stock of named sorts may with advantage raise
a supply from seed, especially as there is a probability of securing
some charming novelty, which is in itself no small incentive.
Although the Dahlia is a tender plant, it is easily managed in a
greenhouse, or in a frame resting on a hot-bed. The seed may be sown as
early as January, but unless sufficient space is at command to keep the
plants stocky as they develop, it will be wise to wait until February.
A sowing in the month last named will produce plants forward enough to
bloom at the usual time. Even March will not be too late; but whatever
time may be chosen, when the start has been made it must be followed up
with diligence, so as to avoid giving any check from first to last. Sow
thinly in pots or pans filled with ordinary light rich compost, and
cover the seed with a mere sprinkling of fine earth. When the first
pair of leaves attain the height of an inch, pot off each plant singly
close up to the base of the leaves. It is not advisable to throw the
weakly seedlings away; these are the very plants which are most likely
to display new shades of colour and they are worth some additional
trouble. Although weak at the outset, they may, by judicious treatment,
be developed into a thriving and healthy condition.
When potted, place the plants in heat, giving a little extra care until
growth is fairly started. In due time shift into larger sizes as may be
necessary, and then it will be wise to consider whether there is space
to grow the whole stock well. If not, do not hesitate to sacrifice the
surplus, and in doing so reject the rankest-growing specimens, for
these are least likely to produce a fine display of bloom. It is
mistaken practice to take out the top shoot, as this checks the plant
for no good end; but when about six inches high, each one will need the
support of a stick. Give water freely, and air on all suitable
occasions. The least tendency to curled leaves indicates something
amiss, and demands immediate attention. A cold blast may have stricken
the plants, or the soil may be poor; lack of sufficient water will
produce the mischief, or it may arise from the presence of aphis. If
the last-named assumption prove correct, fumigate on the first quiet
evening, and omit watering on that day. The mere mention of the other
points will be sufficient to show the remedy for them.
As the time for transfer to the open air approaches, all that is
possible should be done to harden the plants for the change. They may
be placed for a few days under the shelter of a wall or hedge, but on
the least sign of frost be prepared to protect with hurdles or mats.
Full exposure during genial showers and fair weather is advisable, and
an occasional examination of the plants will prevent their rooting
through the pots into the soil.
The border for Dahlias can scarcely be made too rich, for they are
hungry and thirsty subjects, and will amply repay in a profusion of
bloom the manure that may be lavished upon them. Slugs and snails are
unfortunately too partial to newly planted Dahlias, but the vermin soon
cease to care about them; therefore it is advisable to plant Lettuces
plentifully at the same time, or previously, on the same ground, and to
dust around the Dahlias with lime. Insert at least one stake, about a
yard long, near each plant, to give support, and two or three others
will have to be given before the branches spread far. Secure the first
shoot when planting is completed, and follow up the tying as growth
demands.
Dahlias bloom continuously for a long time, and appear to be especially
at home in the shrubbery border, or in the centre of a bed. They are
also valuable for training against buildings having a southern aspect,
and here the flowering period is much prolonged, for an early frost
will scarcely reach them. A light wall is an admirable background for
deep-coloured varieties, and the white or yellow flowers are displayed
to advantage against a dark building. Dahlias may be used either alone
or in company with the climbing plants which are usual in such
positions.
The flowers possess a special value for indoor decoration, and any odd
corner of the garden can be utilised for producing a supply for this
purpose. Cutting should invariably be done in the early morning, while
yet the dew is upon them. They will then retain their beauty for a
longer period than those taken at a later hour from the same plants.
This remark is true of all flowers, but it applies with especial force
to the Dahlia.
DAISY, DOUBLE
Bellis perennis fl. pl. Hardy perennial
The remarkable development of the Double Daisy in recent years has
raised this simple garden subject to the foremost rank of spring
bedding plants. So pronounced has been the improvement achieved in the
size and form of the flowers, that plants raised from a reliable strain
of seed will now produce blooms which may well be mistaken for
specimens of finely shaped Asters. When massed in a large bed the
flowers present one of the most striking sights to be seen anywhere in
the spring garden. But apart from their use in formal beds and borders,
Double Daisies make a pleasing break among Wallflowers, and are
particularly attractive when grown as an edging to bulbous flowers and
other spring-blooming subjects such as Polyanthus, Myosotis, &c. Plants
from a sowing made in pans in April and put out when large enough, may
be flowered in the autumn of the same year. But the method more
generally practised is to sow on prepared beds in the open during June
or July, and to transfer the seedlings when sufficiently developed to
positions for blooming in the following season.
DELPHINIUM
Hardy perennial
Nearly all the perennial varieties may be raised from seed, and where
large numbers are required this is the best method of obtaining them.
They make handsome border flowers, and are extremely valuable during
the early months of summer. Sow in May, June or July, in the open
ground, and transplant in autumn. If mixed seed has been sown, it will
not be wise to thin out all the weakly plants, or it may happen that
some of the choicest shades may be lost. The first flowers will be over
by midsummer, but if the stalks are promptly cut down instead of being
allowed to seed, there will be a second display later in the year.
Three varieties, Queen of Blues, Dwarf Porcelain Blue, and Blue
Butterfly, may be flowered as annuals, by sowing in pans in March and
transplanting to the open as soon as the seedlings are ready. They also
make particularly charming pot plants, for which purpose it is
advisable to sow seeds in March.
The scarlet variety (_D. nudicaule_) is rather more delicate than the
others, and it is wise to raise the plants in well-drained seed-pans,
and to take care of them through the first winter in a cold frame;
indeed, in a heavy soil there is a risk of losing them in any winter
which is both cold and wet. It is not necessary to employ pots, but
immediately after flowering take them up and store in peat until the
following April, when they can be returned to the open ground.
_D. sulphureum._ The seed takes a very long time to germinate, and
severely taxes the patience of the sower. But otherwise there is no
difficulty in raising plants, and the long spikes of beautiful clear
sulphur-yellow flowers are well worth the extra time the seedlings
need. The best plan is to sow in autumn in the open ground, cover with
a frame, and avoid disturbing the soil, except for weeding, until the
next autumn, when the plants should be put into position for flowering
in the following summer.
As slugs are exceedingly partial to Delphiniums, the crowns should be
examined in spring, and the seed-beds may be dressed with soot and
surrounded with ashes to save the seedlings from injury.
The annual Delphiniums are dealt with under Larkspur, page 274.
DIANTHUS
Pink. Biennials, hardy and half-hardy
Many varieties of Dianthus claim attention for their elegant forms and
splendour of colouring. They have been so wonderfully improved by
scientific growers that they almost supersede the old garden Pinks, and
have the great advantage of coming true from seed. _D. Heddewigii_
(Japan Pink) and its varieties, _D. chinensis_ (Indian Pink) and _D.
imperialis_, make interesting and sumptuous beds, and may all be
flowered the first year from sowings made in heat in January or
February. Immediately the seedlings are through the soil it is
important to shift them to a rather lower temperature than is necessary
for insuring germination, or the plants become soft and worthless. Be
very sparing with water, especially if the soil is at all retentive.
When two leaves are formed, transfer to pans, allowing about an inch
between each plant, and place in a sheltered position. Gradually
introduce to cool treatment, and when ready prick off again, allowing
each plant more space. They will thus have a much better start, when
planted out in May, than if taken from the seed-pans direct. Dianthus
make a most attractive display in pots, and a number of seedlings
should be potted on for flowering in this manner.
Where there are no facilities for raising Dianthus in heat, it is quite
easy to grow plants in an open spot from a sowing in June or July, and
they will flower freely in the following year. Prepare drills about six
inches apart and line them with sifted soil; sow thinly, and carefully
cover the seed with fine soil. Shade must be given during germination,
but it should be gradually withdrawn when the seedlings are up.
Transfer to final positions in August. Should this be impossible, prick
the plants out, and shift them again a little later. It will only do
harm to leave them crowded in the seed-bed, and the second move will
better enable them to withstand winter frosts. The Dianthus thrives in
a sandy or loamy soil, with full exposure to sunshine, and the plants
scarcely need water or any attention the whole season through.
DIGITALIS
Foxglove. Hardy biennial
Besides the native Purple Foxglove, largely grown in gardens, there are
several very handsome varieties that are valuable for adorning borders,
shrubberies and woodland walks. Specially worthy of attention are Giant
Primrose, a beautiful variety with rich cream or buff flowers; the
Giant Spotted, which produces handsome flowers, rich and varied in
colour; and the white variety with its abundance of charming
ivory-white bells, which are occasionally slightly spotted.
Any deep rich soil suits Digitalis, and seed sown in May, June, or July
will produce seedlings which, with very little attention, will yield a
fine display of flowers in the following summer. Sow in the open in
pans, or on a prepared border, and put the young plants into permanent
positions, choosing showery weather in August or September.
DIMORPHOTHECA
Half-hardy annual
The Dimorphotheca, also called the Star of the Veldt, was introduced
into this country from South Africa and, like the Nemesia, also a
native of that Dominion, it has become one of the most valuable of our
summer annuals. Under favourable conditions plants may be flowered in
six weeks from time of sowing and they will continue to bloom in
profusion until cut down by frost. In addition to the striking orange
flower, _D. aurantiaca_ (Orange Daisy), a wide range of colours,
including many delicate tints, has been evolved by careful
hybridisation.
Those who wish to obtain forward plants should sow during March or
April in pans of light soil placed in a cold frame, and the seedlings
will be ready for transfer to open quarters in May. Or seed may safely
be sown in the open ground in May and June. As suggested by its native
habitat, the Dimorphotheca loves a warm sunny position and grows to the
greatest perfection in a light soil or a well-drained loam.
The practice of flowering half-hardy annuals in pots is rapidly
increasing, and among this class of plants the Dimorphotheca has few
rivals as a decorative subject for the conservatory. It is more
effective to grow three or four plants in a pot than one only, and the
best specimens are obtained by sowing direct into the pots and thinning
the seedlings to the required number. Use a light rich compost
containing a fair proportion of silver sand, and do not let the plants
suffer for the lack of water.
ESCHSCHOLTZIA
Hardy perennial
A decade or so ago the predominant colours found in Eschscholtzias were
yellow and orange, but in recent years a number of new and very
attractive shades have been introduced, with the result that this plant
is now regarded as indispensable for summer bedding and for borders.
The modern practice is to grow Eschscholtzias as annuals, sowing in the
open during March and April. As the seedlings do not readily
transplant, the seed should be put in where the flowers are wanted.
Thin out in due course, allowing each plant ample space for
development. Sowings may also be made during September, from which the
plants will bloom in advance of those raised in spring.
FREESIA
Half-hardy perennial
The Freesia is another of the bulbous flowers easily raised from seed,
and it may be had in bloom within six months from date of sowing. Use a
rich compost, and sow under glass in January, February, or March, as
may best suit convenience. Seed should be sown again in August, to
supply flowers in spring or summer of the following year. The
brittleness of the roots makes re-potting a hazardous operation. It is
therefore wise to sow in 48-pots and thin to four or five plants in
each, thus avoiding the need for shifting until after flowering has
taken place. When re-potting becomes imperative, it must be done with a
gentle hand, and the bulbs ought to be carefully matched for each pot.
The position chosen for Freesias should be light and freely ventilated
in mild weather, but they will not endure a cutting draught. For
further cultural notes see page 328.
FUCHSIA
Half-hardy perennial
To raise Fuchsias from seed will be new practice to many; but it is
both interesting and inexpensive, and every year it secures an
increasing number of adherents. Seed may be sown at almost any time of
the year; if a start be made in January or February, the plants will
bloom in July or August. Soil for the seed-pots should be somewhat firm
in texture, but a light rich compost ought to be employed when the
plants come to be potted off, and the final shift should be into a
mixture containing nearly one-third of decayed cow-manure. For the
early sowing we have named, a rather strong heat will be necessary to
bring up the seed. When large enough to handle, prick off the seedlings
round the edges of 60-pots, putting about six plants into each pot.
Shade and moisture are requisite to give them a start after each
transfer. Subsequently they must be potted on as growth demands, until
the final size is reached; and flowering will not commence so long as
increased pot-room is given. The growth must not be hurried, and the
plants should at all times be kept free from vermin. Seedlings having
narrow pointed leaves may be consigned to the waste heap without
scruple; but plants with short rounded foliage, especially if dark in
colour, are almost certain to prove of high quality.
GAILLARDIA
Half-hardy perennial
All the Gaillardias are most conveniently grown as annuals from seed.
The plants remain in bloom for a long period, and for their gorgeous
colouring the flowers are as highly prized for arranging in bowls and
vases as for garden decoration. The best month in which to sow seed is
March, and the plants will then be ready for putting out in May. Any
good compost will answer, and only a moderate temperature is necessary
to bring up the seedlings. The usual course of procedure in pricking
off must be adopted to keep them short and stout.
GERANIUM
Pelargonium. Half-hardy perennial
Geraniums of all kinds are most valuable if treated as annuals. In
their seedling state the plants are peculiarly robust and charmingly
fresh in leafage and flowers, even if amongst them there does not
happen to be one that is welcome as a novel florist’s flower. When
grown from first-class seed, however, a large proportion of fine
varieties and a few real novelties may be expected. The seed may be
sown on any day throughout the year, but February and August are
especially suitable. Sow in pans filled with a good mixture, in a
somewhat rough state. Cover with a fair sixteenth of an inch of fine
soil. Put the seed-pans in a temperature of 60° to 70° if sown in
February, but heat will not be necessary at all unless it is desired to
bring the plants into flower early in the ensuing summer. We are
accustomed to place the seed-pans on a sunny shelf in a cool
greenhouse, and have fine plants by the end of June, many of which
begin to flower in August.
GERBERA
Half-hardy perennial
The Gerbera, also known as the Barberton or Transvaal Daisy, is a
native of South Africa. Under cool greenhouse treatment it may be grown
to perfection in pots, and a charming display of bloom can also be
obtained in the open border from plants put out in a well-drained sunny
position and given slight protection in winter. The flowers somewhat
resemble a Marguerite in form, having a number of long pointed petals
radiating from a small centre. In addition to the brilliant _G.
Jamesonii_, sometimes called the Scarlet Daisy of the Cape, many hybrid
flowers having a wide range of delightful colours are also available.
Although seed is often sown in spring, the best results are probably
obtained from an August sowing, in pans placed in a gentle heat. Prick
off the seedlings when large enough, and if required for the greenhouse
or conservatory transfer to pots, or gradually harden off for planting
in the open as soon as weather permits in the following spring.
GESNERA
Nægelia. Tender perennial
An extremely beautiful ornament for stove or conservatory. The new
hybrids freely produce spikes of bright pendulous flowers of many
charming colours. Although the Gesnera is a perennial, it is sound
practice to treat the plant as an annual. Seedlings from a January
sowing will commence flowering in about nine months. Very rich soil, a
warm and even temperature, and plenty of water, are requisite to
promote luxuriant growth. The culture advised for Gloxinias will
exactly suit the Gesnera also.
GEUM
Hardy perennial
The introduction of the well-known double variety, Mrs. Bradshaw, which
may easily be flowered from seed in the first season, has brought the
Geum into prominence in recent years. Seed of the above-named variety
should be sown in pans in March or April and the seedlings pricked off
into boxes of rich soil when large enough. Put out in May or June and
do not let the plants suffer for want of water. Geums may also be
raised from sowings made in June or July, and transplanting in due
course to permanent quarters, in the manner usual with hardy
perennials.
GLADIOLUS
Corn Flag. Half-hardy perennial
Formerly the Gladiolus was seldom raised from seed, probably because
the seed obtainable was not worth sowing. Now it is saved with so much
care that it will give a splendid display of flowers, a large
proportion of which will be equal to named sorts, and some may show a
decided advance.
The use of large pots—the 32-size will answer—is advantageous for many
reasons, and they should be either new or scrupulously clean, for they
will have to remain unchanged for many months, so that a fair start is
the more necessary. For the same reason special care should be taken to
insure free drainage. Over the usual crocks place a layer of dry moss,
and fill with a compost of fibrous loam and leaf-mould in equal parts,
with sufficient sharp sand added to make it thoroughly porous. Press
the soil firmly into the pots, making the surface quite even, and in
February dibble the seeds separately about an inch apart, and half an
inch deep. This will render it needless to disturb the seedlings during
the first season. Put the seed-pots in a steady temperature not
exceeding 65° or 70°. After watering, it will help to retain the
moisture if the top of each pot is covered with a layer of _old_ moss,
until the plants show. When the seedlings are about an inch high remove
to a lower temperature, and begin to harden off by giving air on
suitable occasions. Take care, however, that in the process no check is
given to growth. Soon after the middle of May the seedlings should be
able to bear full exposure, and it will then be time to renew the
surface soil. Gently remove the upper layer, and replace it with rotten
cow-manure, or some other rich dressing. Water must be given regularly
until about midsummer, when the pots may be plunged to the rim in a
shady border, and this will keep them tolerably moist until, in
September, the seedlings begin to ripen off, which they must be allowed
to do. When the leaves have died down, shake out the bulbs and place
them on a shelf to dry. A mixture of equal parts of peat and pine
sawdust, placed in a box or seed-pan, will make the best possible store
for them; the box or seed-pan to be kept in any spot which is safe from
heat and frost. After about six weeks, each bulb should be examined,
and decayed specimens removed. If any of them have commenced growing,
pot them and place in a pit or greenhouse. In March take the bulbs out
of store, pot each one singly, and prepare for planting out. The
transfer to the open must not be made until the danger of frost is
past, even though it be necessary to wait until the first week of June.