be some flowers from seedlings in the second year, their value must not
be judged until the following season. To the trained eye of the florist
the Show Auriculas take precedence over the Alpine section; but for
general usefulness the Alpines hold the first place. They may be
fearlessly put into the open border, and especially the north border,
where, with scarcely any care at all, they will endure the winter, and
freely show their lovely flowers in spring.
BALSAM
Impatiens Balsamina. Half-hardy annual
The older methods of growing Balsams prescribed a false system,
comprising disbudding, stopping, and other interferences with the
natural growth of the plant. The rule of pinching back the leader to
promote the growth of side shoots, and removing the flower buds to
increase the size of the plants, was altogether vicious, because the
natural growth is more elegant and effective. The finest flowers are
produced on the main stem, and these are completely sacrificed by
disbudding.
It is desirable to make two or three sowings of Balsam, say from the
middle of March to the middle of May, the earlier sowings to be put on
a sweet hot-bed, although March sowings will soon germinate in a frame,
and the May sowing may be made in the open ground on a prepared bed.
The soil at every stage should be rich and light, but not rank in any
degree. Prick out the plants from the seed-pans directly the first
rough leaves show, and soon after shift them again to encourage a stout
dwarf habit. A sunny position should be chosen for the bed, in which
they may be planted out about the first week of June, or earlier if the
weather is particularly favourable. Heat, moisture, and a strong light
favour a fine bloom, and, therefore, water must be given whenever dry
weather prevails for any length of time. If kept sturdy while under
glass, they will need no support of any kind, and although they are
peculiarly fleshy in texture, it is seldom they are injured, even by a
gale. When grown in pots throughout, the chief points are to shift them
often in the early stages, to promote free growth in every reasonable
way, and to cease shifting when they are in pots sufficiently large to
sustain the strength of the plants. Generally speaking, eight-inch pots
will suffice for very fine Balsams, but ten-inch pots may be used for
plants from an early sowing. They will probably not show a flower-bud
while increased pot room is allowed them; but as soon as their roots
touch the sides of the pots the bloom will appear. It is occasionally
the practice to lift plants from beds when pot Balsams are wanted. This
method has the advantage of being the least troublesome, and as the
plants need not be lifted until the flowers show, favourite colours can
be chosen.
BEGONIA, TUBEROUS-ROOTED
Begonia hybrida. Half-hardy perennial
One of the most remarkable achievements in modern horticulture is the
splendid development of single and double Tuberous-rooted Begonias from
the plant as first introduced from the Andes. Originally the flowers
were small, imperfect in form, and deficient in range of colour. But
experts were quick in apprehending the capabilities of this graceful
plant, and it proved to be unusually amenable to the hybridiser’s
efforts. Now the large symmetrical blossoms of both single and double
flowers challenge attention for beauty of form and an almost endless
variation of tints peculiar to the Tuberous-rooted Begonia. The plants
are conspicuous ornaments of the conservatory and greenhouse for
several months, and experience has proved that they make unique
bedders, enduring unfavourable conditions of weather which are fatal to
many of the older bedding subjects.
From the best strains of seed it is easy, with a little patience, to
raise a fine stock of plants, possessing the highest decorative
qualities. Under generous treatment the seedlings from a January or
February sowing come into bloom during July and August. The seed should
be sown in well-drained pots containing a good compost at the bottom,
with fine sandy loam on the surface, pressed down. Before sowing
sprinkle the soil with water, and sow the seed evenly, barely covering
it with fine earth. A temperature of about 65° is suitable. Germination
is both slow and irregular, and the plants must be pricked off into
pans or small pots as fast as they become large enough to handle. This
process should be followed up so long as seedlings appear and require
transferring. They may be shifted on as the growth of the several
plants may require. Begonias need more attention with reference to an
even temperature during this stage than at any other period.
The merits of Begonias as bedding plants are now recognised in many
gardens, and they deserve to be still more widely grown. It is wise to
defer planting out until June. In the open ground they produce abundant
supplies of flowers for cutting at the end of September and early in
October, when many other flowers are over. The plants should be put out
when they show themselves sufficiently strong, and it is better to be
guided by the plants than by any fixed date. The beds must be freely
enriched with well-rotted manure and decayed vegetable matter; it can
scarcely be overdone, for Begonias are gross feeders.
The earliest plants to flower will often be retained in the greenhouse,
as they follow in succession the Cinerarias and Calceolarias. Those
that start later may be turned out as they come into bloom, which will
probably be in June. By deferring the planting out until there is a
show of bloom a selection of various shades of colour is possible, and
this will greatly enhance the beauty of the beds. Begonias are hardier
than is generally supposed; they need no protection, and require no
heat, except in the stage of seedlings, when first forming their
tubers.
For autumn decoration Begonias should be taken up from the beds during
September and potted, when they will continue to bloom in the
greenhouse or conservatory for a considerable time, and form a useful
addition to the flowering plants of that period.
If not required for autumn decoration, let the plants remain out as
long as may be safe; then pot off, and place in the greenhouse. Be
careful not to hasten the drying of the bulbs. When the stems fall
Begonias may be stored for their season of rest, allowing them to
remain in the same pots. They can be put away in a dry cellar, or on
the ground, covered up with sand, in any shed or frame where the bulbs
will remain dry and be protected from frost. Both damp and cold are
very injurious to them. The temperature during their season of rest
should be kept as near 50° as possible. When they show signs of growth
in spring they must be put into small-sized pots, almost on the surface
of the soil. As growth increases shift into larger sizes, inserting the
bulb a little deeper each time until the crown is covered.
BEGONIA, FIBROUS-ROOTEDl
Begonia semperflorens. Half-hardy perennial
Fibrous-rooted Begonias are exceedingly valuable for either bedding in
summer or greenhouse decoration during the autumn and winter. They
produce a continual succession of flowers, rather small in size, but
very useful for bouquets, and the plants are charming as table
ornaments. The directions for sowing and after-treatment recommended
for the Tuberous-rooted class will be suitable also for the
Fibrous-rooted varieties, except that the latter must always be kept in
a growing state, instead of being dried off at the end of the flowering
season. Sow seed at the end of January or in February, and again at the
beginning of March. Under fair treatment the first batch of plants will
come into flower for bedding out in June.
CALCEOLARIA, HERBACEOUS
Calceolaria hybrida. Greenhouse biennial
The present magnificent race of Herbaceous Calceolarias, both as to
constitution and the beauty of its flowers, is the result of much
cross-fertilisation of the finest types, so that the best strains are
capable of affording ever-new surprise and delight. The superb
collections exhibited in recent years, which have made lasting
impressions on the public by their form and brilliancy of colour, have
invariably been raised from seeds of selected varieties, saved on
scientific principles that insure vigour, variety, and splendour in the
progeny.
Calceolarias thrive under intelligent cool-house culture, but it must
be clearly understood that in every stage of growth they are quick in
resenting neglect or careless treatment. The work must be carried out
with scrupulous attention, and the result will more than justify the
labour. Extreme conditions of temperature are distinctly injurious, and
the plants are especially susceptible to a parched, dry atmosphere.
May is early enough to commence operations, and July is the limit for
sowing. As a rule, the June sowing will produce the quickest,
strongest, and most robust plants.
The soil, whatever its composition, should be rich, firm, and, above
all, porous. Press it well into the pots or pans, and make the surface
slightly convex and quite smooth. A compost that has been properly
prepared will not need water; but should water become needful, it must
be given by partially submerging the pans. The seed is as fine as
snuff, and requires delicate handling. It is easily lost or blown away,
and therefore it is wise not to open the packet until perfectly ready
to sow. Distribute the seed evenly and sift over it a mere dusting of
fine earth. Place a sheet of glass upon each pot or pan, and the glass
must be either turned or wiped daily. This not only checks rapid
evaporation, but prevents the attacks of vermin. Germination is always
slower on an open than on a close stage. Perhaps the best possible
position is a moist shady part of a vinery, if care be taken when
syringing the vines to prevent the spray from falling upon the
seed-pans.
Under favourable circumstances, from seven to nine days will suffice to
bring the seedlings up in force, and very few will appear afterwards.
When they are through the soil remove the sheet of glass, and give them
prompt attention, or they will rapidly damp off. Immediately the second
leaf appears, tiny as the plants may be and difficult to handle,
commence pricking them off into other pots prepared to receive them,
for it is unsafe to wait until they become strong. Allow about two
inches between the plants. The occupants of each pan may generally be
pricked off in about three operations, and there should be only the
shortest possible intervals between.
With many subjects it is a safe rule to use the robust seedlings and
throw the weakly ones away. This practice will not do in the case of
Calceolarias, or some of the most charming colours that can grace the
conservatory or greenhouse will be lost. The strongest seedlings
generally produce flowers in which yellow largely predominates, a fact
that can easily be verified by keeping the plants under different
numbers. But it must not be inferred that because the remainder are
somewhat weaker at the outset they will not eventually make robust
plants.
Freely mix silver sand with the potting mould, and raise the surface
higher in the centre than at the edge of the pot. From the first
appearance of the seedlings shading is of the utmost importance, for
even a brief period of direct sunshine will certainly prove
destructive. Do not allow the plants to become dry for a moment, but
give frequent gentle sprinklings of water, and rain-water is
preferable. As the soil hardens, stir the surface with a pointed stick,
not too deep, and give water a few hours after. About a month of this
treatment should find each plant in the possession of four or five
leaves. Then prepare thumb pots with small crocks, cover the crocks
with clean moss and fill with rich porous soil. To these transfer the
plants with extreme care, lifting each one with as much soil adhering
to the roots as a skilful hand can make them carry. Place them in a
frame, or in the sheltered part of a greenhouse, quite free from
dripping water. Always give air on suitable days, and on the leeward
side of the house.
Keep a sharp look-out for aphis, to the attacks of which Calceolarias
are peculiarly liable. Fumigation is the best remedy, and it should be
undertaken in the evening; a still atmosphere renders the operation
more certain. Water carefully on the following morning, and shade from
the sun.
By September the plants should be in large 60-pots, and it is then
quite time to begin the preparation for wintering. Some growers put
them in heat, and are successful, but the heat must be very moderate,
and even then we regard the practice as dangerous. Place the plants
near the glass, and at one end of the house where they will obtain
plenty of side light, as well as light from above. During severe frosts
it may be well to draw them back or remove them to a shelf lower down
and towards the centre of the house, but they must be restored as soon
as possible to the fullest light obtainable, as they have to do all
their growth under glass. The more air that can safely be given, the
better, and dispense with fire-heat if a temperature of 45° to 55° can
be maintained without it.
When growth commences in spring, which will generally be early in
March, give each plant its final shift into eight-or ten-inch pots.
This must be done before the buds push up, or there will be more
foliage than flowers.
The following is the compost we advise: one bushel good yellow loam,
half-bushel leaf-soil, one gallon silver sand, a pound of Sutton’s A 1
Garden Manure, and a pint of soot, well mixed at least ten days before
use. Any sourness in the soil will be fatal to flowering. The compost
must be carefully ‘firmed’ into the pots, but no severe pressure should
be employed, or the roots will not run freely.
Neglect as to temperature or humidity will have to be paid for in long
joints, green fly, red spider, or in some other way. But there are no
plants of high quality that grow more thriftily if protected from cold
winds and kept perfectly clean. A light airy greenhouse is their proper
place, and they must have ample headroom.
After the pots are filled with roots, not before, manure water may be
administered until the flower-heads begin to show colour, when pure
soft water only should be used. About a fortnight in advance of the
full display the branches must be tied to supports. If skilfully
managed the supports will not be visible.
It may be that a few large specimens are required. If so, shift the
most promising plants into 6-size pots. These large Calceolarias will
need regular supplies of liquid manure until the bloom is well up, and
if the pots are efficiently drained and the plants in a thriving
condition, a rather strong beverage will suit them. For all ordinary
purposes, however, plants may be allowed to flower in eight-or ten-inch
pots, and for these one shift after the winter is sufficient.
New Types of Calceolaria.—There are now available a number of hybrid
half-hardy perennial varieties, of which _C. profusa_ (_Clibrani_) is
the most popular, that bear the same relation to the Large-flowered
Calceolaria as the Star Cineraria does to the Florist’s Cineraria. In
point of size the blooms produced by these new types are smaller than
those of the Large-flowered section, but the tall graceful sprays are
extremely beautiful and of the greatest decorative value. Except that
seed should be sown earlier (February and March are the proper months),
the plants should receive precisely the same treatment as that already
described for Herbaceous Calceolaria.
CALCEOLARIA, SHRUBBY
Calceolaria rugosa. Half-hardy perennial
Notwithstanding the ease with which cuttings of the Shrubby Calceolaria
can be carried through a severe winter, there is a growing disposition
to obtain the required number of plants from seed sown in February; and
seedlings have the advantage of great variety of colour. A frame or
greenhouse, and the most ordinary treatment, will suffice to insure a
large stock of attractive healthy plants for the embellishment of beds
and borders.
CAMPANULA and CANTERBURY BELL
Hardy annual, hardy biennial, and hardy perennial
Among the numerous and diverse forms in the order Campanulaceæ are many
flowers of great value in the garden, including Single, Double, and Cup
and Saucer strains of the popular Canterbury Bell (_C. medium_). The
impression that some Campanulas are shy growers and require
exceptionally careful treatment may arise from the frail habit of
certain varieties, or from the fact that some of them occasionally fail
to bloom within twelve months from date of sowing. The idea is not
worth a moment’s consideration. In moderately rich, well-drained soil
the finest Campanulas not only prove to be thoroughly hardy, but they
are most graceful in herbaceous borders or beds, and they may also be
used alone in bold clumps with splendid effect. For instance, the
handsome Chimney Campanulas (_C. pyramidalis_ and _C. pyramidalis
alba_) frequently attain a height of six feet or more, and sturdy
spikes occasionally measure eight and even ten feet from base to tip.
Such specimens are magnificent ornaments in conservatories and
corridors, and cannot fail to arrest attention at the back of
herbaceous borders, or when used as isolated plants on lawns. When
grown in pots use a light rich compost, taking care to insure perfect
drainage. The plants must never be allowed to become dry, as this not
only checks growth but renders them liable to attack by red spider or
green fly. Another distinctive subject for the decoration of the
conservatory is _C. grandis_, which may be described as a dwarf Chimney
Campanula. The freely branching plants, covered with attractive
flowers, also form a striking group when grown in the open border.
Altogether different in character is _C. persicifolia grandiflora_, or
the Peach-leaved Bell-flower as it is sometimes called. This plant is
lighter and more graceful than the Canterbury Bell. It throws up
handsome stems, two feet high, clothed from the ground with lance-like
leaves and elegant bells which quiver in the slightest breeze. An
interesting plant is the Giant Harebell, a dainty flower on a slender
stem, resembling the wild variety in form, but larger, richer in
colour, and a more profuse bloomer. _C. glomerata_ is one of the
hardiest plants that can be grown in any garden, and the large close
heads of deep blue bells have long been familiar in herbaceous borders.
For its very fine glistening, deep blue, erect flowers, _C.
grandiflora_ is also a great favourite.
Campanulas were formerly propagated by division, but this treatment has
created the impression that they are unworthy to be ranked among the
perennials. From seed, the plants are extremely robust. _C.
persicifolia grandiflora_ resents division, which frequently results in
weakened growth and a tendency, especially in poor or badly drained
soil, to dwindle away. The only satisfactory method of growing
Campanulas is to raise plants annually from good strains of seed. If
sown in gentle heat early in the year—February is the usual month—many
of the varieties flower the same season. When they are well started,
plenty of light and air must be admitted. Unless intended for potting
they should be planted out in good soil where they will require no more
care than is bestowed on the borders generally. Seed can also be sown
in the open ground from May to July; transplant in autumn for flowering
in the following season. During hot weather, particularly on light
soil, the plants need to be well watered, but in retentive ground
thorough drainage must be insured. Should signs of debility appear,
transplant to rich soil, where they will soon regain vigour.
A popular half-hardy Campanula is _C. fragilis_, of trailing habit. The
starry pale blue flowers are seen to most advantage in hanging-baskets.
The charm of these flowers is wholly lost if they are placed on a stage
in the greenhouse; and they are not entirely satisfactory in a window
where the light is transmitted through the petals, as this robs them of
colour and substance. But hanging in a conservatory with plenty of air
and space their slender drooping stems are very graceful, and the light
reflected from the flowers does full justice to their beauty. Sow in
pans during February or March and pot on as required.
All the foregoing are perennials, but two little hardy annual
Campanulas are _Attica_ and _A. alba_, growing about six inches high.
They make useful foreground plants, and are quite at home in rock
gardens. Sow in April on light soil.
The Canterbury Bell has already been alluded to; it is a charming hardy
biennial forming a valuable feature of the mixed border. The large
semi-double blooms of the Cup and Saucer class and the double varieties
are modern introductions which have become extremely popular; the range
of colours now includes the most delicate shades of pink, mauve, and
blue, in addition to pure white. Seed may be sown from April to July.
When the seedlings are large enough transplant them where required for
flowering in the summer of the succeeding year. But Canterbury Bells
are also interesting in the greenhouse during spring; for this work pot
them in October and on to December. So treated, they bloom even more
generously than in the garden. There can be no more beautiful adornment
for a hall or large drawing-room than a well-placed group of the fine
white flowers, backed by a mass of dark-foliaged plants.
CANNA
Indian Shot. Half-hardy perennial
Cannas have ceased to be regarded simply as sub-tropical foliage
plants, adapted only for the adornment of beds and borders. They have
not lost their merits for this purpose, although in all probability the
taller forms will be less grown than formerly, because the new dwarf
varieties, which maintain a high standard of beauty in the foliage,
include a diversity of rich tints previously unknown, and they possess
the additional merit of producing flowers that have lifted the race
into prominence as brilliant decorative subjects for the garden and the
greenhouse.
The popular name is descriptive of the seed, which is almost spherical,
black, and so hard that it has been used in the West Indies instead of
shot. Hence it will occasion no surprise that the germs burst through
the strong covering with difficulty, and that sometimes weeks elapse
before the seedlings appear, one or two at a time. To facilitate
germination some growers file the seed, others soak it until the skin
becomes sufficiently soft to permit of the paring away of a small
portion with a sharp knife. In either case caution must be exercised to
avoid injuring the germ. A safer mode of attaining the object is to
soak the seeds in water, placed in a greenhouse or stove, for about
twenty-four hours before sowing. After soaking the seeds it is
necessary to keep the soil constantly moist, or the germs will
certainly suffer injury. The number of seeds sown should be recorded,
so that it may be known when all are up. The first sowing should be
made in January, in a temperature of about 75°, and as fast as the
seedlings become ready transfer singly to small pots. As Cannas are
gross feeders they must have a rich, porous compost, and an occasional
dose of liquid manure will prove beneficial, especially when the pots
are full of roots. If the seedlings from the January sowing are
regularly potted on and properly managed they will begin to flower in
June or July. Either the plants may be turned out into a rich soil, or
the pots can be plunged, and after flowering in the open until late in
autumn the plants can be lifted for another display of bloom in the
greenhouse. In warm districts and in dry, sheltered situations, the
roots may be left in the open ground all the winter under a covering of
ashes; but they must be lifted from a damp, cold soil, and stored in a
frame during the winter months. We have only mentioned January as the
month for sowing, but seed may be put in up to midsummer, or even
later, following the routine already indicated.
CARNATION
Dianthus Caryophyllus fl. pl. Hardy perennial