roofs, as such houses are less liable to chill during cold windy
weather, and they catch a maximum of the winter sunshine. In a mild
winter, Cucumbers may be grown in any kind of house that can be
maintained at a suitable temperature, and the markets are supplied from
rough constructions that do duty for many purposes. But in hard
weather, the steep lean-to, with bed along the front, and tank to give
equable bottom heat, will prove the most serviceable, as it will
neither allow snow to lodge on the glass, nor suffer any serious
decline of temperature during the prevalence of sharp frost and keen
winds. For late autumn supply any kind of house will suffice, but best
of all an airy span. A brick pit will answer every purpose from October
to March with good management, and fermenting materials will afford the
needful heat. In such cases trenches should be provided for occasional
renewal of the bottom heat. But a roomy house and a service of hot
water justly stand in favour with experienced cultivators, as combining
the necessary conditions with convenience of management.
For winter culture, plants are raised from seeds and from cuttings.
Seedling plants are the most vigorous, but they require a little more
time than cuttings to arrive at a fruiting state. For pot culture
cuttings are preferable, as only a moderate crop is expected, and
quickness of production is of great importance. It is usual to sow the
first lot of seeds on the 1st of September, and to sow again on the 1st
of October and the 1st of November; after which it is not advisable to
sow again until the 1st of February for the spring crop. If the
management is good, the first sowing will be in fruit by the time the
third batch of seed is sown, say, by the first week of November, and
thenceforward throughout the winter there should be no break in the
supply.
The management of Winter Cucumbers turns upon details chiefly, and will
be found in the end to depend rather upon care than skill. The general
principles are the same as in growing Cucumbers in frames, the task for
the cultivator being to carry them out successfully. Begin by sowing
the seed singly in small pots in light turfy loam, or peat with which a
fair proportion of sharp sand has been mixed. These pots to be placed
in a heat of 70° to 75°, and for plants to last long the lower
temperature is preferable. As regards the next stage, the plants may be
trained up rafters, or spread out on beds, the first being always the
better plan where it happens to be convenient. But the prudent
cultivator will not be tied to rules; he will cut his coat according to
his cloth, and while he has a house of Cucumbers trained to the roof,
he will, perhaps, also have a pit filled with plants on beds. To stop
severely is bad practice, for vigorous growth is wanted; but a certain
amount of stopping must be done to promote an even growth, and to
distribute the fruit fairly both in space and time. We have already
admitted that in some books on gardening too much has been said about
soil. In many places a suitable turfy loam, or a good fibrous peat, may
be obtained, and the accidents that have befallen Cucumbers have
usually been the result of bad management in respect of heat, water,
and air, rather than the use of unsuitable soil. But it must not be
supposed that we are careless about this matter. Neither a pasty clay,
a sour sticky loam, nor a poor sandy or chalky soil will produce fine
Cucumbers. On the other hand, rank manure and poor leaf-mould are both
unfavourable materials. There is nothing like mellow loam, which can be
enriched and modified at discretion, without going to extremes.
Ridge Cucumbers are grown in much the same way as recommended for
Vegetable Marrows. They may be put on hillocks or beds, and in either
case a foundation of fermenting material is required to insure a crop
in the early part of the summer. For a late crop, the natural heat of
the soil will be sufficient should the summer prove to be fine, but in
a cold season Ridge Cucumbers are disappointing. Of the many methods of
growing them, one of the best is to lay out the ground in four-feet
beds by taking out the soil to a depth of fifteen inches, and spreading
about that depth or more of half-rotted manure, to which may be added
any leaves and other litter that may be handy. Cover with a foot depth
of good loam. About mid-April sow the seeds in three-inch pots or in
boxes and place in a cool greenhouse. After careful hardening, plant
out about the third week of May. If preferred, seeds may be sown on the
bed early in May. Give the plants the protection of a hand-light should
the weather prove unfavourable, and some care will be needed to keep
them moving fairly until the season is so far advanced as to allow for
the removal of the lights. Put the plants at thirty inches apart down
the middle of the bed, and when growing freely, nip out the points
_once only_. A crop of Lettuce may be taken from the beds while the
plants are advancing.
DANDELION
Taraxacum officinale
As a salad Dandelion has won general esteem for its wholesome medicinal
qualities. Nature teaches the way to grow this plant, for she sows the
seed in early summer, and we find the finest plants on dry ground,
while there are none to be found in bogs and swamps. Any gravelly or
chalky soil will grow good Dandelion, one fair digging without manure
being a sufficient preparation for it. Sow in May or June, and thin to
one foot apart every way, keeping the crop scrupulously clean by flat
hoeing. Any time in the winter the roots may be lifted and forced in
the same way as Sea Kale, or they may be covered with pots in spring to
blanch where grown. In any case the spring growth must be made in
darkness, for when green the flavour is bitter. Invalids who require
this salutary salad may obtain early supplies by planting the roots in
boxes in a cellar, and covering with empty boxes. Only as much water
should be given as will keep the roots reasonably moist.
EGG PLANT (AUBERGINE)
Solatium Melongena, S. esculentum
In this country the Egg Plant is generally grown merely as an ornament,
but it is a delicious vegetable when sliced and fried in oil, the
purple-and black-fruited kinds being especially serviceable for the
table. The common white, which is best known, is fairly good when
cooked young, though less rich in flavour than the purple. The
cultivation recommended for Capsicum will suit the Egg Plant, but
little atmospheric moisture is needed or the seedlings may damp off.
They are not well adapted for planting out, although in a warm season
they will fruit freely under a sunny wall, and will grow in a gravel
walk if helped at first with a little good soil round the roots. If
required in quantity for the table, the purple variety may be grown in
a frame from plants raised on a hot-bed. Generally speaking, a few
plants in pots are all that are required where the fruit is not valued
as an esculent.
ENDIVE
Cichorium Endivia
As a result of the growing taste for wholesome salads Endive has
considerably advanced in public esteem. The flavour of well-blanched
Endive suits most palates that have had experience of salads, and of
the salutary properties of the plant we have a hint in its close
relation to the Chicory.
The selection of sorts is a question of importance, because the
handsome curled varieties that make the best appearance on the table,
and might be regarded as ornaments if they were not edible, are the
very finest for salads, being tender, with a fresh nutty flavour. The
broad-leaved sorts are not so well adapted for salads as for stews, and
they take the place of Lettuces when the latter are not available for
soups and ragoûts. However, when an emergency occurs, the curled
varieties will be found suitable for cooking, and the broad-leaved for
salading, and therefore there need be no waste where one sort
predominates.
Soil.—A difficulty common to Endive culture may be got over in the way
advised for Celeriac. The plant requires a light, dry, sandy soil; and
a portion, at least, of the crop is expected to stand through the
winter. Thus on a heavy soil there is a prospect of failure in respect
of the late crop, but that is obviated by adopting a made bed—one of
smallish dimensions being sufficient to accommodate a large stock of
plants. Select an open spot, make a foundation of any hard rubbish that
is at hand, and on this put one to two feet of sandy soil. This will
form a raised bed of a kind exactly suited to the plant, and will cost
but little as compared with its ultimate value. If regularly dressed
with manure, and otherwise well managed, the bed will supply Endive in
winter and other salads in summer, or it may be cropped with Dwarf
Beans, which can be removed in August to make way for the usual
planting of Endive. Where the soil is naturally light and dry no such
preparation is needed, but Endive does not come to perfection without
food, and therefore the soil should be rich and deeply dug.
Sowing and Transplanting.—The seed may be sown as early as March, in a
moderate heat, but the latter part of April is early enough for most
purposes, and the main sowings are made in June. Later sowings may
follow in July and August. But the June sowing is the most important,
as by a little careful management it will supply a few early heads and
many late ones. Sow in shallow drills six inches apart, and when the
plants are an inch high draw the most forward, and prick them out on a
bed of rich light soil in the same way as Celery, and with a little
nursing these will make a first plantation. The plants in the seed-bed
should be thinned to three inches, and must have water in dry weather.
All the thinnings should be pricked out in the first instance to make
them strong for planting, but the last lot may go direct to the beds to
finish.
The final planting must be on rich, light, dry soil, and water given to
encourage growth. The distance for the curled varieties is a foot each
way, and for the broad-leaved fifteen inches. In taking the last lot
from the seed-bed, a crop should be left untouched to mature at twelve
to fifteen inches apart. These plants will give a first and most
excellent supply if carefully blanched.
If more convenient, seed may be sown where the crop is intended to
stand, the plants being thinned to the distances already given.
The blanching is an important business, and is variously performed. The
customary mode is to tie the leaves together in the manner usual with
Lettuce and mould them up. This method answers perfectly, except in wet
seasons, when, if the plants stand for some time, the outer leaves
begin to rot, and the decay proceeds inwards, to the deterioration or
destruction of the plant. A clean and effective process is to cover the
heart of the plant with a flower-pot. The hole is darkened with part of
a tile or slate, on which should be laid a piece of turf or a handful
of mould. A plate or clean tile placed over the centre of the plant
will also blanch Endives satisfactorily in autumn. For winter supplies,
the plants may be lifted as wanted and placed in boxes or pots of soil,
these being covered with other boxes or pots to exclude light. A
Mushroom-house, cellar, or under a greenhouse stage, will serve for
storing the lifted plants. The blanching must be carried on in such a
way as to insure a succession without a glut at any time, for when
sufficiently blanched Endive should be used, or decay will soon set in.
GARLIC
Allium sativura
The mode of culture advised for Shallots will suit Garlic also, except
that the latter should be planted in February about two inches beneath
the surface of the soil, and the bulbs may be grown closer together,
about eight or nine inches apart each way.
When large bulbs are required for exhibition or other purposes, the
cloves—as the divisions of each root are called—should be planted
separately; but for general use moderate-sized bulbs, planted whole,
will produce a heavier crop.
GOURD and PUMPKIN
(Cucurbita)
Gourds and Pumpkins may be grown to perfection by precisely the same
method recommended for Ridge Cucumbers; but as the plants occupy more
space, room must be left for them to extend south wards beyond the
limits of the ridge. It is well to put out strong plants from seeds
sown in pots in April or May, and protect them until established. If
these are not obtainable, the seed may be sown where the plants are
intended to stand, and there will in time be plenty of produce, but of
course somewhat later in the season than if strong plants had been put
out in the first instance. Keep a sharp look-out for slugs, which will
flock in from all quarters to feast upon them, but will scarcely touch
them after they have been planted a week or so. Any rough fermenting
material, such as grass mowings, may be used in making the hills, to
give them the aid of a warm bed for a brief space of time, and it is a
great gain if they grow freely from the first. Later on the natural
heat will be enough for them.
The edible Gourds are useful in all their stages and ages; and if the
cultivator has a fancy to grow large, handsome fruits, he can make the
business answer by hanging them up for use in winter, when they may be
employed in soups in place of Carrots, or in addition to the usual
vegetables, and may indeed be cooked in half a dozen different ways.
There remains yet one more purpose to which the plants may be applied:
supposing you have a great plantation of edible Gourds and Marrows, and
would like a peculiarly elegant and delicious dish of Spinach, pinch
off a sufficiency of the tops of the advancing shoots, and cook them
Spinach fashion. If properly done, it is one of the finest vegetables
ever eaten. As pinching off the tender tops of the shoots lessens the
fruitfulness of the vines, we only recommend this procedure where there
is a large plantation.
Gourds may be trained to trellises, fences, and walls. In all such
cases, a good bed should be prepared of any light, rich loam, and it
will be none the less effective if made on a mound of fermenting
material.
HERBS
With certain exceptions, the growing of Sweet Herbs from seeds is
altogether advantageous. The plants come perfectly true, and are so
vigorous that it is easier to raise them from seed than to secure a
succession from slips or cuttings. To meet a large and continuous
demand in the kitchen there must be a proportionate plantation in the
border; but in gardens of medium size we do not advocate the culture of
Herbs on an extensive scale, unless there be a special object in view.
A moderate number of Herbs will meet the necessities of most families.
Still it is a fact that the tendency is always in the direction of
increased variety, and gardeners are called on to provide frequent
changes of flavouring Herbs, some of which are quite as highly prized
in salads as they are for culinary purposes.
In the smallest gardens, Mint, Parsley, Sage, and both Common and Lemon
Thyme, must find a place. In gardens which have any pretension to
supply the needs of a luxurious table there should be added Basil,
Chives, Pot and Sweet Marjoram, Summer and Winter Savory, Sorrel,
Tarragon, and others that may be in especial favour. Large gardens
generally contain a plot, proportioned to demands, of all the varieties
which follow.
Several of the most popular Herbs, such as Chives, Mint, Tarragon, and
Lemon Thyme, are not grown from seed—at all events, those who venture
on the pastime might employ their labour to greater advantage. But
others, such as Basil, Borage, Chervil, Fennel, Marjoram, Marigold,
Parsley, Savory, &c., are grown from seed, in some cases of necessity,
and in others because it is the quicker and easier way of securing a
crop.
Angelica and Mint flourish in moist soil, but the majority of aromatic
Herbs succeed on land that is dry, poor, and somewhat sandy, rather
than in the rich borders that usually prevail in the Kitchen Garden.
Happily they are not very particular, but sunshine they must have for
the secretion of their fragrant essences. A narrow border marked off in
drills, and, if possible, sloping to the south, will answer admirably.
Thin the plants in good time, and the thinnings of those wanted in
quantity may, if necessary, be transplanted. The soil must be kept free
from weeds, and every variety be allowed sufficient space for full
development.
Angelica (_A. Archangelica_).—A native biennial which is not easily
raised from seed treated in the ordinary way. Germination is always
capricious, slow and irregular. It may be several months before the
plants begin to appear. The best results are obtained by placing the
seed in sand, kept moist for several weeks before sowing. The leaves
and stalks are sometimes blanched and eaten as Celery, and are also
boiled with meat and fish. Occasionally the tender stems and midribs
are coated with candied sugar as a confection. Angelica was formerly
supposed to possess great medicinal virtues, but its reputation as a
remedy for poison and as a preventive of infectious diseases is not
supported by the disciples of modern chemistry. The seeds are still
used for flavouring liqueurs.
Balm (_Melissa officinalis_).—A perennial herb, which can be propagated
by cuttings or grown as an annual from seed. An essential oil is
distilled from the leaves, but they are chiefly used, when dried, for
making tea for invalids, especially those suffering from fever. The
plant has also been used for making Balm wine. Sow in May.
Basil, Bush (_Ocymum minimum_).—A dwarf-growing variety, used for the
same purposes as the Sweet Basil. Sow in April.
Basil, Sweet (_Ocymum Basilicum_).—A tender annual, originally obtained
from India, and one of the most popular of the flavouring Herbs. Seeds
should be sown in February or March in gentle heat. When large enough
the seedlings must be pricked off into boxes until they are ready for
transferring to a rich border in June, or seed may be sown in the open
ground during April and May. A space of eight inches between the plants
in the rows will suffice, but the rows should be at least a foot apart.
The flower-stems must be cut as they rise, and be tied in bundles for
winter use. This practice will prolong the life of the plant until late
in the season. Many gardeners lift plants in September, pot them, and
so maintain a supply of fresh green leaves until winter is far
advanced.
Borage (_Borago officinalis_).—A native hardy plant, which thrives in
poor, stony soil. The flowers are used for flavouring purposes,
especially for claret-cup. Borage is also a great favourite with
bee-masters. Sow in April or May in good loam, and thin to fifteen or
eighteen inches apart. The rows should be from eighteen to twenty-four
inches asunder, for the plant is tall, and strong in growth.
Chervil, Curled (_Anthriscus Cerefolium_).—Used for salads, garnishing,
and culinary purposes. To secure a regular supply of leaves small
successional sowings are necessary from spring to autumn, and frequent
watering in dry weather will prevent the plants from being spoiled by
throwing up seed-stems. For winter use, sow in boxes kept in a warm
temperature.
Chives (_Allium Schænoprasum_).—A mild substitute for the Onion in
salads and soups. The plant is a native of Britain, and will grow
freely in any ordinary garden soil. Propagation is effected by division
of the roots either in spring or autumn. The clumps should be cut
regularly in succession whether wanted or not, with the object of
maintaining a continuous growth of young and tender shoots. At
intervals of four years it will be necessary to lift, divide, and
replant the roots on fresh ground.
Fennel (_Fæniculum officinale_).—A hardy perennial which has been
naturalised in some parts of this country. It is grown in gardens to
furnish a supply of its elegant feathery foliage for garnishing and for
use in fish sauces. Occasionally the stems are blanched and eaten in
the same way as Celery, and in the natural state they are boiled as a
vegetable. The seeds are also employed for flavouring. Sow in drills in
April and May, and thin the plants to fifteen inches apart.
Finocchio, or Florence Fennel (_Fæniculum dulce_, DC).—A sweet-tasting
herb, very largely grown in the south of Italy, where it is eaten both
in the natural state and when boiled. Sow in the open ground during
spring or early summer, in rows about eighteen inches apart, and thin
or transplant to six or nine inches. When the base begins to swell,
earth up the plants in the same manner as Celery. If transplanted,
pinch off the tips of the roots.
Horehound (_Marrubium vulgare_).—A well-known medicinal herb, from
which an extract is obtained for subduing irritating coughs. Sow in
April or May, and thin the plants until they stand fifteen inches
apart.
Hyssop (_Hyssopus officinalis_).—The leaves and young shoots are used
as a pot-herb, and the leafy tops and flowers, when dried, are employed
for medicinal purposes. Hyssop is also occasionally used as an edging
plant. A dry soil and warm situation suit it. Sow in April, and thin
the plants to a foot apart in the rows.
Lavender (_Lavandula_).—Universally known and valued for its perfume.
Although the plant is generally propagated from cuttings, it can easily
be grown from seed sown in April or May. The plants attain a height of
one or two feet, and the stems should not be cut until the flowers are
expanded.
Marigold, Pot (_Calendula officinalis_).—Employed both in flower and
vegetable gardens: in the former as a bedding annual, and in the latter
that the flowers may be dried and stored for colouring and flavouring
soups; also for distilling. In April or May sow the seed in drills one
foot apart, and thin the plants to the same distance in the rows.
Marjoram, Pot (_Origanum Onites_).—One of the most familiar Herbs in
British gardens. The aromatic leaves are used both green and when dried
for flavouring. Strictly the plant is a perennial, but it is readily
grown as an annual. Sow in February or March in gentle heat, and in the
open ground a month later. The plants should be allowed a space often
inches or a foot each way.
Marjoram, Sweet Knotted (_Origanum Majorana_).—This plant is used for
culinary purposes in the same way as the Pot Marjoram, and it is also
regarded as a tonic and stomachic. The most satisfactory mode of
cultivation is that of a half-hardy annual. Sow in March or April and
allow each plant a square foot of ground.
Mint (_Mentha viridis_).—Known also as Spearmint. It must be grown from
divisions. Between the delicacy of fresh young green leaves and those
which have been dried with the utmost care there is so wide a
difference that the practice of forcing from November to May is fully
justified. This is easily accomplished by packing roots in a box and
keeping them moist in a temperature of 60°. Where this is impossible,
stems must be cut, bunched, and hung in a cool store for use during
winter and spring. Mint grows vigorously in damp soil, and the bed
should have occasional attention, to prevent plants from extending
beyond their proper boundary. To secure young and luxuriant growth a
fresh plantation should be made annually in February or March. If
allowed to occupy the same plot of land year after year the leaves
become small and the stems wiry.
Parsley (_Carum Petroselinum_) will teach those who have eyes exactly
how it should be grown. There will appear here and there in a garden
stray or rogue Parsley plants. No matter how regularly the hoeing and
weeding may be done, a stray Parsley plant will occasionally appear
alone, perhaps in the midst of Lettuces, or Cauliflowers, or Onions.
When these rogues escape destruction they become superb plants, and the
gardener sometimes leaves them to enjoy the conditions they have
selected, and in which they evidently prosper. The lesson for the
cultivator is, that Parsley should have plenty of room from the very
first; and this lesson, we feel bound to say, cannot be too often
enforced upon young gardeners, for they are apt to sow Parsley far more
thickly than is wise, and to be injuriously slow and timid in thinning
the crop when the plants are crowding one another.