made of wood instead of the most delicate tissue. The first earthing
should be done with a hand-fork, and quite loosely, to allow the heart
of the plant room to expand. The result should be a little ring of
light earth scarcely pressing the outside leaves, and leaving the whole
plant as free as it was before. A fortnight or so later the earthing
must be carried a stage further by means of the spade. Chop the earth
over, and lay it in heaps on each side of the plant. Then gather a
plant together with both hands, liberate one hand, and with it bring
the earth to the plant half round the base, and, changing hands, pack
up the earth on the other side. Be careful not to press the soil very
close; also avoid putting any crumbs into the heart of the plant; and
do not earth higher than the base of the leaves. As soon as may be
necessary repeat this process, carrying the earth a stage higher; and
about a week from this finish the operation.
The top of the plant must now be closed, and the earth carefully packed
so high that only the very tops of the leaves are visible. Finish to a
proper slope with the spade, but do not press the plants unduly, the
object being simply to obtain a final growth of the innermost leaves in
darkness, but otherwise free from restraint.
The Bed System answers particularly well for producing a large supply
of Celery with the least amount of labour. This method of cultivation
is also especially suitable for raising Celery intended to be served
when boiled, or for soups. Celery beds are made four and a half feet
wide and ten inches deep, the soil which is taken out being laid up in
a slope round the outside of the bed, and the bank thus formed may be
planted with any quick crop, such as Dwarf Beans. The ground will need
to be heavily manured in the same manner as for the trench system.
Space the plants six inches apart in single or double lines, as may be
preferred, and allow not less than twelve inches between the rows.
Water must be given to each row as planted; afterwards the surface to
be several times chopped over with the hoe or a small fork, and
watering repeated until the plants have made a start. An easy means of
blanching is by the use of stiff paper collars as described below;
another simple method is to place mats over the tops of the plants when
nearly full grown. The bed system is not only economical, but
convenient for sheltering in winter, and should have the attention of
gardeners who are expected to supply abundance of Celery throughout the
winter and spring, for in such cases a large sample is not required,
but quality and continuance are of importance.
It is a great point to keep Celery unhurt by frost far on in the
winter, and the advantage of growing the late crops on dry light soil,
and on the bed system, will be seen in the ease with which the plants
can be preserved. On heavy soil Celery soon suffers from frost, but not
so readily on a soil naturally light and dry. Moreover, the bed system
allows of many methods of protection, with whatever materials are at
command. In heavy soil fine crops of Celery for autumn use may be
grown, but in consequence of the liability of the plant to suffer by
winter damp, it is advisable to plant late crops on the level, and
earth up from the adjoining plots in order to keep the roots dry in
winter. Another step towards securing a late supply consists in bending
the tops on one side at the final earthing, which prevents the
trickling of water into the heart of the plant during heavy rain or
snow.
Celery for Exhibition.—From the opening paragraph it will be gathered
that to produce extra fine specimens of Celery for exhibition very
generous treatment of the plants is necessary. Apart from the choice of
varieties—and only the finest strains should be considered—four points
are of especial importance to the cultivator. The ground must be
liberally enriched; at no period should the plant receive a check or
suffer for want of water; there must be the closest inspection at
frequent intervals to prevent disfiguration of the stalks or leaves by
slugs, snails, or the Celery fly; and finally the operation of
blanching will need great care and discretion. These points have
already been dealt with at some length. But on the question of
blanching it may be well to add that in order to insure perfect
specimens, free from blemish, artificial means of some kind must be
adopted in place of earthing up in the ordinary way. The use of strips
of good quality brown paper will prove both simple and effectual. These
strips need not exceed a width of five or six inches, fresh bands being
added as growth develops. Tie them securely with raffia or twine,
making due allowance for expansion of the plant, and when in position
carefully draw the soil towards the base.
The numerous enemies of Celery, such as slugs, snails, the
mole-cricket, and the maggot, do not seriously interfere with the crop
where good cultivation prevails, but the Celery fly appears to be
indifferent to good cultivation, and therefore must be dealt with
directly. Dusting the leaves occasionally with soot has been found to
operate beneficially. It should be done during the month of June on the
mornings of days that promise to be sunny. If the soot is put on
carelessly it will do more harm than good; a very fine dusting will
suffice to render the plant distasteful to the fly. Syringing the
leaves with water impregnated with tar has also saved plants from
attack. Where the eggs are lodged the leaves will soon appear
blistered, and the maggot within must be crushed by pinching the
blister between the thumb and finger. Leaves that are much blistered
should be removed and burned, but to rob the plants of many leaves will
seriously reduce the vigour of growth.
Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted Celery, is much prized on the Continent as a
cooked vegetable, and as a salad. In ordinary Celery the stem forms a
mere basis to the leaves, but in Celeriac it is developed into a knob
weighing from one to five pounds, and the root is more easily preserved
than Celery. When cooked in the same manner as Sea Kale, Celery is well
known as a delicacy at English tables, and the cooked Celeriac ranks in
importance with it, though it affords quite a different dish. The stem
or axis of the plant is used, and not the stalks. To grow fine Celeriac
a long season is requisite; and therefore it is advisable to sow the
seed in a gentle heat early in March, and afterwards prick out and
treat as Celery; but after the first stage the treatment is altogether
different. For the plantation a light and rich soil is required, and
where the staple is heavy, a small bed can easily be prepared by
spreading six inches depth of any sandy soil over the surface. The
plants must be put out on the level a foot and a half apart each way,
and be planted as shallow as possible. Before planting, trim carefully
to remove lateral shoots that might divide the stems, and after
planting water freely. The cultivation will consist in keeping the crop
clean, and frequently drawing the soil away from the plants, for the
more they stand out of the ground the better, provided they are not
distressed. They must never stand still for want of water, or the roots
will not attain to a proper size. The lateral shoots and fibres must be
removed to keep the roots intact, but not to such an extent as to
arrest progress. When a good growth has been made, and the season is
declining, cover the bulbs or stems with a thin coat of fine soil, and
in the first week of October lift a portion of the crop and store it in
sand, all the leaves being first removed, except those in the centre,
which must remain, or the roots may waste their energies in producing
another set. The portion of the crop left in the ground will need
protection from frost, and this can be accomplished by earthing them
over with soil taken from between the rows.
Celeriac is cooked in the same manner as Beet, and requires about the
same length of time. The stems, bulbs, or roots (for the knobs, which
are true stems, are known by various names) are trimmed, washed, and
put into boiling water without salt or any flavouring, and kept boiling
until quite tender; they may then be pared, sliced, and served with
white sauce, or left uncut to be sliced up for salads when cold.
CHICORY
Cichorium Intybus
A valuable addition to the supply of winter and spring roots. When
stewed and served with melted butter, Chicory bears a slight
resemblance to Sea Kale. More frequently, however, it is eaten in the
same manner as Celery, with cheese, and it also makes an excellent and
most wholesome salad. All the garden varieties have been obtained from
the wild plant, and some of the stocks show a decided tendency to
revert to the wild condition. It is therefore important to sow a
carefully selected strain, or the roots may be worthless for producing
heads.
Seed should be sown in May or June, in rows one foot apart, and the
plants thinned out to about nine inches in the rows. The soil must be
deep and rich, but free from recent manure, except at a depth of twelve
inches, when the roots will attain the size of a good Parsnip.
In autumn the roots must be lifted uninjured with the aid of a fork,
and only a few at a time, as required. After cutting off the tops just
above the crown, they can at once be started into growth, and it is
essential that this be made in absolute darkness. French growers plant
in a warm bed of the temperature suited to Mushrooms, but this
treatment ruins the flavour, and has the effect of making the fibre of
the leaves woolly. It is far simpler and better to put the roots into a
cellar or shed in which a temperature above the freezing point may be
relied on, and from which every ray of light can be excluded. They can
be closely packed in deep boxes, with light soil or leaf-mould between.
If the soil be fairly moist, watering will not be necessary for a
month, and had better not be resorted to until the plants show signs of
flagging. Instead of boxes, a couple of long and very wide boards,
stood on edge and supported from the outside, make a convenient and
effective trough. The packing of the roots with soil can be commenced
at one end, and be gradually extended through the entire length, until
the part first used is ready for a fresh start. Breaking the leaves is
better than cutting, and gathering may begin about three weeks after
the roots are stored. From well-grown specimens, heads may be obtained
equal to a compact Cos Lettuce, and by a little management it is easy
to maintain a supply from October until the end of May. The quantity of
salading to be obtained from a few roots is really astonishing.
CORN SALAD
Valerianella olitoria
Corn Salad, or Lamb’s Lettuce, so often seen on Continental tables, is
comparatively unknown in this country. The reason for this is, perhaps,
to be found in the fact that, as a raw vegetable, it is not
particularly palatable, although when dressed as a salad with oil and
the usual condiments it is altogether delicious, and forms a most
refreshing episode in the routine of a good dinner. Corn Salad is a
plant of quick growth, and is valued for its early appearance in
spring, when elegant salads are much in request. It may be mixed with
other vegetables for the purpose, or served alone with a little
suitable preparation.
The most important sowings are made in August and September. Seed may,
however, be sown at any time from February to October, but only those
who are accustomed to the plant should trouble to secure summer crops;
when Lettuces are plentiful Corn Salad is seldom required. Any good
soil will grow it, but the situation should be dry and open. Sow in
drills six inches apart, and thin to six inches in the rows. The crop
is taken in the same way as Spinach, either by the removal of separate
leaves or cutting over in tufts.
COUVE TRONCHUDA
Brassica oleracea costata
Couve Tronchuda, or Portugal Cabbage, is a fine vegetable that should
be grown in every garden, including those in which Cabbages generally
are not regarded as of much importance. The plant is of noble growth,
and in rich ground requires abundant room for the spread of its great
leaves, the midribs of which are thick, white, tender, and when cooked
in the same manner as Sea Kale quite superb in quality. When a fair
crop of these midribs has been taken there remains the top Cabbage,
which is excellent.
Two or three sowings may be made in February, March, and April, and the
early ones must be in heat. Transfer to rich soil as early as possible,
giving the plants ample room, from two to three feet each way, and aid
with plentiful supplies of water in dry weather.
CRESS
Lepidium sativum
Cress is best grown in small lots from frequent sowings, and the sorts
should be kept separate, and, if possible, on the same border. Fresh
fine soil is requisite, and there is no occasion for manuring, in fact
it is objectionable, but a change of soil must be made occasionally to
insure a good growth. The seed is usually sown too thick, yet thin
sowing is not to be recommended. It is important to cut Cress when it
is just ready—tender, green, short, and plump. This it will never be if
sown too thick, or allowed to stand too long. Immediately the plant
grows beyond salad size it becomes worthless, and should be dug in.
From small sowings at frequent intervals under glass a constant supply
of Cress may be kept up through the cold months of the year, for which
purpose shallow boxes or pans will be found most convenient. Cress
generally requires rather more time than Mustard.
American or Land Cress (_Barbarea præcox_) is of excellent quality when
grown on a good border, and two or three sowings should be made in the
spring and autumn in shady spots. If the site is not naturally moist,
water must be copiously given.
Water Cress (_Nasturtium officinale_) is so highly prized that many who
are out of the reach of ordinary sources of supply would gladly
cultivate it were there a reasonable prospect of success. Assertions
have been made that it can be grown in any garden without water, but we
have never yet seen a sample fit to eat which has been grown without
assistance from the water can. A running stream is not necessary. Make
a trench in a shady spot, and well enrich the soil at the bottom of it.
In this sow the seed in March, and when the plants are established keep
the soil well moistened. The more freely this is done the better will
be the result. Other sowings may be made in April, August, and
September. We have seen Water Cress successfully cultivated in pots and
pans immersed in saucers of water placed in shady positions.
CUCUMBER
Cucumis sativus
The Cucumber is everywhere valued. Its exceeding usefulness explains
its popularity, and happily the plant is of an accommodating character.
In large establishments, Cucumbers are grown at all seasons of the
year; in medium-sized gardens, summer Cucumbers are generally deemed
sufficient, and there is no difficulty in growing an abundant and
continuous supply of the finest quality. The winter cultivation demands
suitable appliances and skilful management; but a very small house,
with an efficient heating apparatus, will suffice to produce a large
and constant supply, and therefore winter Cucumbers need not be
regarded as beyond the range of practice of any ordinary well-kept
garden.
Frame Cucumbers are the most in demand, and the easiest to grow. The
very first point for the cultivator is to determine when to begin, for
the rule is to begin too early, and to waste time and opportunity in
consequence. We will suppose the Cucumbers are to be grown in a
two-light frame, for which will be required four good cartloads of
stable manure. This should be put in a heap three weeks before the bed
is made up, and the bed will have to last until the season is
sufficiently advanced to sustain the heat without any further
fermentation. Considering these points, it will be understood that it
is a far safer proceeding to begin the first week in April than the
first week in March, and unless the way is clearly seen, the later date
is certainly preferable, for it reduces to a minimum the conflict with
time in the matter of bottom heat. Make up the heap; then, early in
March, turn it twice, and at the end of the month prepare the bed,
firming the stuff with a fork as the work proceeds, but taking care not
to tread on the bed. Put on the lights and leave the affair for five or
six days; then lay down a bed of rich loamy soil of a somewhat light
and turfy texture, about nine inches deep. It is now optional to sow or
plant as may be most convenient. Strong plants in pots, put out at
once, will fruit earlier than plants from seeds sown on the bed. But
sowing on the bed is good practice for all that, and if this plan is
adopted a few more seeds must be sown than the number of plants
required, to provide a margin for enemies; any surplus plants will
generally prove useful, for Cucumber plants seldom go begging. If it is
preferred to begin with plants, the question of providing them must be
considered in good time. The seed should be sown at least a month in
advance, and should be brought forward on a hot-bed or in a cool part
of a stove. Many a successful Cucumber grower has no better means of
raising plants than by sowing the seeds in a box or pan of light rich
earth, kept in a sunny corner of a common greenhouse, with a slate or
tile laid over until the seeds start, and by a little careful
management nice thrifty plants are secured in the course of about four
weeks. In some books on horticulture a great deal is said as to the
soil in which Cucumber seed should be sown. We advise the reader not to
make too much of that question. Any turfy loam, or even peat, will
answer; but a rank soil is certainly unfit. The object should be to
obtain short, stout plants of a healthy green colour; not the
long-drawn, pallid things that are often to be seen on sale, and which
by their evident weakness seem destined to illustrate the problems of
Cucumber disease.
Having made a beginning with strong plants on a good bed, the two
matters of importance are to regulate the temperature and the watering.
In the first instance, it will be necessary to shade the plants a
little, but as they acquire strength they should have more light and
more air than are usually allowed to Cucumbers. A temperature averaging
60° by night and 80° by day will be found safe and profitable, as
promoting a healthy growth and lasting fruitfulness. But the rule must
be elastic. You may shut up at 90° without harm, and during sunshine
the glass may rise to 95° without injury, provided the plants have air
and are not dry at the roots. But it is of great moment that the night
temperature should be kept near 60° and not go below it. If the
thermometer shows that the night temperature has been above the proper
point owing to the heat of the bed, wedge up the lights about half an
inch in the evening, and as the season advances increase this supply of
night air, for it keeps the plants in health, provided there is no
chill accompanying it. As regards watering, the important point is to
employ soft water of the same temperature as the frame, and therefore a
spare can, filled with water, must be always kept in the frame ready
for use, and when emptied should be filled again and left for the next
watering. Twice a day at least the plants and the sides of the frame
should receive a shower from the syringe. It is better to syringe three
times than twice, but this must be in some degree determined by the
temperature. The greater the heat, the more freely should air and water
be supplied; on the other hand, if the heat runs down, give water with
caution, or disaster may follow. In case of emergency the plants will
go through a bad time without serious damage if kept almost dry, and
then it will be prudent to give but little air. Sometimes the heat of
the bed runs out before there is sufficient sun heat to keep the plants
growing, but if they can be maintained in health for a week or so, hot
weather may set in, and all will come right. But to carry Cucumbers
through at such a time demands particular care as to watering and
air-giving.
As regards stopping and training, we may as well say at once, that the
less of both the better. Free healthy natural growth will result in an
abundant production of fruit, and stopping and training will do very
little to promote the end in view. But there is something to be done to
secure an even growth and the exposure of every leaf to light. When the
young plant has made three rough leaves, nip out the point to encourage
the production of shoots from the base. When the shoots have made four
leaves, nip out the points to promote a further growth of side shoots,
and after this there must be no more stopping until there is a show of
fruit. The growth should be pegged out to cover the bed in the most
regular manner possible, and wherever superfluous shoots appear they
must be removed. Any crowding will have to be paid for, because crowded
shoots are not fruitful. If a great show of fruit appears suddenly,
remove a large portion of it, as over-cropping makes a troublesome glut
for a short time, and then there is an end of the business; but by
keeping the crop down to a reasonable limit, the plants will bear
freely to the end of the season. Every fruiting shoot should be stopped
at two leaves beyond the fruit, and as the crop progresses there must
be occasional pruning out of old shoots to make room for young ones. An
error of management likely to occur with a beginner is allowing the bed
to become dry below while it is kept quite moist above by means of the
syringe. Many cultivators drive sticks into the bed here and there, and
from time to time they draw these out and judge by their appearance
whether or not the bed needs a heavy watering. To be dry at the root is
deadly to the Cucumber plant, and to be in a swamp is not less deadly.
It must have abundance of moisture above and below, but stagnation of
either air or water will bring disease, ending in a waste of labour.
The greenhouse cultivation of the Cucumber for a summer crop only is
the most profitable and simple as well as the most interesting of all
the methods practised. In many gardens the houses that have been filled
during the winter with Geraniums and other plants are very poorly
furnished during the summer, and present a most unsightly appearance.
Now, it is a very easy matter to render them at once profitable and
beautiful, for when clothed with green vines bearing handsome
Cucumbers, such houses are attractive and pay their way amazingly well.
To carry out the routine properly, the house should be cleared at the
end of April, the plants being removed to pits and frames. If possible,
make up the beds on slates laid close over the hot-water pipes, and use
a bushel or more of soil under each light to begin with. First lay on
the slate a large seed-pan, bottom upwards, and on that a few flat
tiles, and then heap up a shallow cone of nice light turfy loam. Start
the fire and shut up, and raise the heat of the empty house to 80° or
90° for one whole day. The next day plant on each hillock a short stout
Cucumber plant, or sow three seeds. Proceed as advised for frame
culture, keeping a temperature of 60° by night and 80° by day, with a
rise of 5° to 10° during sunshine. Ply the syringe freely, give air
carefully, and use the least amount of shading possible. It will very
soon be found that by judicious management in shutting up and
air-giving, the firing may be dispensed with, and then it remains only
to syringe freely and train with care. The plants should not be stopped
at all, but be taken up direct to the roof and be trained out on a few
wires or tarred string, in the first instance right and left, and
afterwards along the rafters to meet at the ridge, and form a rich
leafy arcade. The fruits will appear in quantity, and must be thinned
to prevent over-cropping. As the plants grow, earth must be added to
the hillocks until there is a continuous bed, on which a certain number
of shoots may be trained where there is sufficient light for them. It
is best to begin as advised above, with the aid of fire heat to start
the crop for the sake of gaining time; but if this is not convenient
begin without fire heat in the last week of May, and the plants will
produce fruit until the chill of autumn makes an end of them, and the
house is again required for the greenhouse plants.