anyhow, but to make a handsome crop a deep, rich, moist soil is
required. It attains to fine quality on a well-tilled clay, but the
kindly loam that suits almost every vegetable is adapted to produce
perfect Parsley, and every good garden should show a handsome sample,
for beauty is the first required qualification. To keep the house
fairly well supplied sowings should be made in February, May, and July.
The first of these will be in gentle heat. When large enough prick out
the plants into boxes, or on to a mild hot-bed, and transfer to the
open ground at the end of April, allowing each plant a space of one
foot each way. In the open, it is best to sow in lines one foot apart,
and thin out first to three inches, and finally to six inches, the
strongest of the seedlings being put out one foot apart. By following
this plan sufficient supplies for a small household may be obtained
from one annual sowing made in April. It should not be overlooked that
Parsley is indispensable to exhibitors of vegetables, especially as a
groundwork for collections, and due allowance for such calls must be
made in fixing the number and extent of the sowings. When the plant
pushes for seed it becomes useless, and had best be got rid of; but by
planting at various times in different places a sufficiency may be
expected to go through a second season without bolting, after which it
will be necessary to root them out and consign them to the
rubbish-heap. Parsley is often grown as an edging, but it is only in
large gardens that this can be done advantageously, and then a very
handsome edging is secured. In small gardens it is best to sow on a bed
in lines one foot apart, and thin out first to three inches, and
finally to six inches, the strongest of the thinnings being planted a
foot apart, to last over as proposed above. When Parsley has stood some
time it becomes coarse, but the young growth may be renewed by cutting
over; this operation being also useful to defer the flowering, which is
surely hastened by leaving the plants alone. For the winter supply a
late plantation made in a sheltered spot will usually suffice, for the
plant is very hardy; but it may be expedient sometimes to put old
frames over a piece worth keeping, or to protect during hard weather
with dry litter. A few plants lifted into five-inch pots and placed in
a cool house will often tide over a difficult period. In gathering,
care should be taken to pick separately the young leaves that are
nearly full grown, and to take only one or two from each plant. It
costs no more time to fill a basket by taking a leaf or two here and
there from a whole row than to strip two or three plants, and the
difference in the end will be considerable as regards the total produce
and quality of the crop.
Pennyroyal (_Mentha Pulegium_) is a native perennial which must be
propagated by divisions, and this can be done either in spring or
autumn. The rows may be twelve or fifteen inches apart, but in the rows
the plants do well at a distance of eight inches. The taste for
Pennyroyal is by no means universal, but some persons like the tender
tops in culinary preparations. The belief in its supposed medicinal
virtues is slowly dying.
Purslane (_Portulaca oleracea_).—This annual plant thrives best in a
sunny position. Seed should be sown from mid-April onwards to insure a
succession of young leaves and shoots which may be cooked as a
vegetable or eaten raw as a salad. Space the rows nine inches apart and
thin the plants to a distance of six inches.
Rampion (_Campanula Rapunculus_).—Both leaves and roots are used in
winter salads; the roots are also boiled. If the seed be sown earlier
than the end of May the plants are liable to bolt. Choose a shady
situation where the soil is rich and light, and do not stint water. The
rows need not exceed six inches apart, and four inches in the rows will
be a sufficient space between plants.
Rosemary (_Rosmarinus officinalis_).—A hardy evergreen shrub easily
grown from seed, the leaves of which are used for making Rosemary tea
for relieving headache. An essential oil is also obtained by
distillation. A dry, warm, sunny border suits the plant. Sow in April
and May.
Rue (_Ruta graveolens_).—A hardy evergreen shrub, chiefly cultivated
for its medicinal qualities. The leaves are acrid, and emit a pungent
odour when handled. The plant is shrubby, and as it attains a height of
two or three feet it occupies a considerable space. Sow in April.
Sage (_Salvia officinalis_).—Although Sage can be raised from seed with
a minimum of trouble, yet this is one of the few instances where it is
an advantage to propagate plants from a good stock. The difference will
be obvious to any gardener who will grow seedlings by the side of
propagated plants. Still, seedlings are often raised, and as annuals
the plants are quite satisfactory. Sow under glass in February and
March, and in open ground during April and May. Prick off the seedlings
into a nursery bed before transferring to final positions, in which
each plant should be allowed a space of fifteen inches.
Savory, Summer (_Satureia hortensis_).—An aromatic seasoning and
flavouring herb, which must be raised annually from seed. Sow early in
April in drills one foot apart, and thin the plants to six or eight
inches in the rows. Cut the stems when in full flower, and tie in
bunches for winter use.
Savory, Winter (_Satureia montana_).—A hardy dwarf evergreen which can
be propagated by cuttings; but it is more economically grown from seed
sown at the same time, and treated in the same manner, as Summer
Savory.
Sorrel (_Rumex scutalus_).—The large-leaved or French Sorrel is not
only served as a separate dish, but is mingled with Spinach, and is
also used as an ingredient in soups, sauces, and salads. Leaves of the
finest quality are obtainable from plants a year old, and when the crop
has been gathered the ground may with advantage be utilised for some
other purpose. Light soil in fairly good heart suits the plant. The
seed should be sown in March or early April, in shallow drills six or
eight inches apart, and the seedlings must be thinned early, leaving
three or four inches between them in the rows. To keep the bed free
from weeds is the only attention necessary, unless an occasional
watering becomes imperative. In September the entire crop may be
transferred to fresh ground, allowing eighteen inches between the
plants, or part may be drawn and the remainder left at that distance.
In the following spring the flower-stems will begin to rise, and if
these are allowed to develop they reduce the size of the leaves and
seriously impair their quality; hence the heads should be pinched out
as fast as they are presented.
Tarragon (_Artemisia Dracunculus_).—This aromatic herb is used for a
variety of purposes, but is most commonly employed for imparting its
powerful flavour to vinegar. The plant is a perennial, and must be
propagated by divisions in March or April, or by cuttings placed in
gentle heat in spring. Later in the year they will succeed under a
hand-glass in the open. Green leaves are preferable to those which have
been dried, and by a little management a succession of plants is easily
arranged. For winter use roots may be lifted in autumn and placed in
heat. Those who have no facilities for maintaining a supply of green
leaves rely on foliage cut in autumn and dried.
Thyme, Common (_Thymus vulgaris_).—An aromatic herb, well known in
every garden, and in constant demand for the house. Seedlings are
easily raised from a sowing in April, or the plant can be grown from
division of the roots in spring. Thyme makes a very effective edging,
and is frequently employed for this purpose on dry, well-kept borders.
Thyme, Lemon (_Thymus Serpyllum vulgaris_).—This plant cannot be grown
from seed; only by division of the roots in March or April. It is an
aromatic herb, generally regarded as indispensable in a well-ordered
garden.
Wormwood (_Artemisia Absinthium_).—An intensely bitter herb, used for
medicinal purposes. The plant is a hardy perennial, and is usually
propagated in spring by taking cuttings or dividing the roots.
HORSE-RADISH
Cochlearia Armoracia
This vegetable is highly prized as a condiment to roast beef, but as a
rule it is badly grown. The common practice is to consign it to some
neglected corner of the garden, where it struggles for existence, and
produces sticks which are almost worthless for the table. In the same
space a plentiful supply of large handsome sticks may be grown with as
little trouble as Carrots or Parsnips. Choose for the crop a piece of
good open ground, and in preparing it place a heavy dressing of rotten
manure quite at the bottom of each trench. Early in the year select
young straight roots from eight to twelve inches long, each having a
single crown, and plant them one foot apart each way. By the following
autumn these will become large, succulent sticks, which will put to
shame the ugly striplings grown under starving conditions. The roots
may be dug as required; but we do not advocate that method. It is
better practice to clear the whole bed at once, and store the produce
in sand for use when wanted. This plan should be repeated each year,
and a fresh piece of land ought always to be found for the crop.
KALE—_see_ BORECOLE, _page 27_
KOHL RABI (KNOL KOHL)
Brassica oleracea Caulo-rapa
Kohl Rabi, or Knol Kohl, is comparatively little grown in this country,
because we can almost always command tender and tasty Turnips. On the
Continent it is otherwise. There Kohl Rabi may be seen in every market,
and on many a good table, where it proves a most acceptable vegetable.
For all ordinary purposes the green variety is better than the purple.
A small crop of this root should be annually grown in every garden. In
case of failure with Turnips, Kohl Rabi will take their place to tide
over an emergency. When. served it has the flavour of a Turnip with a
somewhat nutty tendency, and may be prepared for table in the same
manner.
Kohl Rabi is cultivated in much the same way as Turnips. Seed may be
sown at any time from March to August in rows one and a half to two
feet apart. As soon as possible thin the seedlings to three inches
apart in the rows, and, as the leaves develop, to six inches apart. By
drawing every other plant some small roots may be obtained early, and
the remainder will be left to mature at twelve inches in the rows. The
seedlings may be transplanted, if desired. Keep the ground clean and
the surface open, but care should be taken not to damage the leaves, or
in the least degree to earth up the roots. Any animal that can eat a
Turnip will prefer a Kohl Rabi, and when substituted for the Turnip in
feeding cows, it does not affect the flavour of the milk. The plant is
hardy, and as a rule may stand, to be drawn as wanted, until the spring
is far advanced, when the remnant should be cleared off for the benefit
of the animals on the home farm, or be dug in as manure.
LEEK
Allium Porrum
The leek is not so fully appreciated in the southern parts of England
as it is in the North, and in Scotland and Wales. It is a fine
vegetable where it is well understood, and when stewed in gravy there
is nothing of its class that can surpass it in flavour and
wholesomeness. One reason of its fame in Scotland and the colder parts
of Wales is its exceeding hardiness. The severest winters do not harm
the plant, and it may remain in the open ground until wanted,
occasioning no trouble for storage.
Times of Sowing.—To obtain large handsome specimens of the finest
quality a start must be made in January or early February, and this
early sowing is imperative for the production of Leeks for exhibition,
as the roots must be given a longer season of growth than is generally
allowed for ordinary crops. It is usual to sow in pans or boxes of
moistened soil, placed in a temperature of about 55°. The seeds need
only a very light covering of fine soil. When the seedlings are about
two inches high transfer to shallow boxes of rich soil, spacing them
three inches apart each way, or the finest may be placed in pots of the
32-size, taking care not to break the one slender root on which the
plant depends at this stage. Grow on in the same temperature until
mid-March, when they may be transferred to a cold frame to undergo
progressive hardening in readiness for planting out at a favourable
opportunity in April.
There may be three sowings of Leek made in the open ground in February,
March, and April, to insure a succession, and also to make good any
failures. But for most gardens one sowing about the middle of March
will be sufficient. From this sowing it will be an easy matter to
secure an early supply, a main crop, and a late crop, for they may be
transplanted from the seed-bed at a very early stage, and successive
thinnings will make several plantations; and finally, as many can be
left in the seed-bed to mature as will form a proper plantation.
General Cultivation.—The Leek will grow in any soil, and when no
thicker than the finger is useful; indeed, in many places where the
soil is poor and the climate cold it rarely grows larger, but is,
nevertheless, greatly valued. A rich dry soil suits the plant well, and
when liberally grown it attains to a great size, and is very
attractive, with its silvery root and brilliant green top. The
economical course of management consists in thinning and planting as
opportunities occur, beginning as soon as the plants are six inches
high, and putting them in well-prepared ground, which should be
thoroughly watered previously, unless already softened by rain. The
distance for planting must depend upon the nature of the soil and the
requirements of the cultivator. For an average crop, eighteen inches
between the rows and six to nine inches between the plants is
sufficient; but to grow large Leeks, they must be allowed a space of
twelve to eighteen inches in the rows. In planting, first shorten the
leaves a little (and very little), then drive down the dibber, and put
the plant in as deep as the base of the leaves, and close in carefully
without pressure. Water liberally, occasionally stir the ground between
plants, and again cut off the tops of the leaves, when the roots will
grow to a large size. If the ground is dangerously damp or pasty, make
a bed for the crop with light rich soil, plant on the level and mould
up as the growth advances. On light land, however, it is advisable to
grow them in trenches, prepared as for Celery. The largest and whitest
should not be left to battle with storms, but those left in the
seed-bed will take no harm from winter weather, and will be useful when
the grandees are eaten. The finest roots that remain when winter sets
in may be taken up in good time and stored in dry sand, and will keep
for at least a month. Any that remain over in spring can readily be
turned to account. As the flower-stems rise nip them out; not one
should be left. The result of this practice will be the formation on
the roots of small roundish white bulbs, which make an excellent dish
when stewed in gravy, and may be used for any purpose in cookery for
which Onions or Shallots are employed. They are called ‘Leek Bulbs,’
and are obtainable only in early summer.
Blanching.—The edible part of the root should be blanched, and this may
be effected in various ways. Drain-pipes not less than two and a half
inches in diameter, and from twelve to fifteen inches in length, answer
well for large stems. Tubes of stiff brown paper are also very
serviceable. Drawing up the earth to the stem as growth develops is a
simple method of blanching, and the edible portion may easily be
increased according to the amount of earthing-up given. Perfect
blanching is of first importance when specimens are wanted for the
exhibition table, and a commencement must be made as soon as the plants
may be said to have thoroughly recovered from the effects of
transplanting.
LETTUCE
Lactuca sativa
The lettuce is the king of salads, and as a cooked vegetable it has its
value; but as it does not compete with the Pea, the Asparagus, or the
Cauliflower, we need not make comparisons, but may proceed to the
consideration of its uses in the uncooked state. Scientific advisers on
diet and health esteem the Lettuce highly for its anti-scorbutic
properties, and especially for its wholesomeness as a corrective. It
supplies the blood with vegetable juices that are needful to accompany
flesh foods when cooked vegetables are unattainable. Our summers are
usually too brief and too cool to permit us to acquire a knowledge of
the real value of the Lettuce, but in Southern Europe and many parts of
the East it becomes a necessary of life, and those large red Lettuces
that are occasionally grown here as curiosities are prized above all
others because of their crisp coolness and refreshing flavour under a
burning sun.
The numerous varieties may, for practical purposes, be grouped in two
classes—Cabbage and Cos Lettuces. They vary greatly in habit and are
adapted for different purposes, the first group being invaluable for
mixed salads at all seasons, but more especially in winter and early
spring; the second group is most serviceable in the summer season, and
is adapted for a simple kind of salad, the leaves being more crisp and
juicy. A certain number of the two classes should be grown in every
garden, both for their great value to appetite and health, and their
elegance on the table, whether plain or dressed. In the selection of
sorts, leading types should be kept in view. Some of the varieties
which have been introduced have no claim to a place in a good list,
because of their coarseness. Although they afford a great bulk of
blanched material, it is too often destitute of flavour, or altogether
objectionable. The best types are tender and delicately flavoured,
representing centuries of cultivation, and the sub varieties of these
types should retain their leading characteristics, though perhaps they
are more hardy and stand longer, and are therefore much to be desired.
Preparation of the Soil.—The Lettuce requires a light, rich soil, but
almost any kind of soil may be so prepared as to insure a fair supply,
and in places where fine Cos Lettuces are not readily obtained, it may
be possible to grow excellent Cabbage varieties in place of them. A
tolerably good garden soil will answer for both classes, and fat stable
manure should be liberally used. The best way to prepare ground for the
summer crop is to select a piece that has been trenched, and go over it
again, laying in a good body of rough green manure, one spade deep, so
that the plant will be put on unmanured ground, but will reach the
manure at the very period when it is needed, by which time contact with
the earth will have rendered it sweet and mellow. By this mode of
procedure the finest growth is secured, and the plants stand well
without bolting, as they, are saved from the distress consequent on
continued dry weather. As regards drought, it must be said that the
red-leaved kinds stand remarkably well in a hot summer, and although
they do not rank high as table Lettuces in this country, were we to
experience a succession of roasting summers they would rise in repute
and be in great demand. Cabbage Lettuces bear drought fairly well, more
especially the diminutive section; but where water is available
Lettuces have as good a claim to a share of it in a dry, hot season, as
any crop in the garden.
Blanching.—A first-class strain of White Cos Lettuce will produce
tender white hearts without being tied, and, as a rule, therefore, the
labour of tying may be saved. The section of which Sutton’s Superb
White Cos is the type may be said to produce better samples without
tying than with this imaginary aid to blanching. The market grower is
still accustomed to tie Lettuces because they are more easily packed
and travel better when tied, but when tying is practised it need not be
done until one or two days before the Lettuces are cut. The coarser
market kinds certainly are improved by tying, and in this case the
operation must be performed when the plants are quite dry, and not more
than ten days in advance of the day on which it is intended to pull
them. The Bath Cos must be tied always, and when well managed the heart
is white, with a pretty touch of pink in the centre.
Spring-sown Lettuces may be forwarded under glass from January to
March, from which time sowings may be made successively in the open
ground. In any and every case the finest Lettuces are obtained by
sowing in the open ground, and leaving the plants to finish in the
seed-bed without being transplanted. It will, of course, occur to the
practical cultivator that the two systems may be combined, so as to
vary the time of turning in, and thus from a single sowing insuring a
longer succession than is possible by one system only. We will suppose
small sowings made of three or four sorts in January or early in
February, and put into a gentle heat to start them. A very little care
will keep them going nicely, and of course they must have light and air
to any extent commensurate with safety. When about three weeks old, it
will be advisable to prick these out into a bed of light rich earth in
frames; or if the season is backward, and they need a little more
nursing, prick them into large shallow boxes, containing two or three
inches of soil, which will be sufficient provided it consists in great
part of decayed manure, kept always moist enough for healthy growing.
The next step will be to plant them out about six inches apart, with a
view to draw a certain number as soon as they are large enough to be
useful, leaving the remainder at nine to twelve inches, taking care to
thin out in time to prevent any leaves overlapping. If Peas are being
grown under glass, a few plants of an early Cabbage variety may be put
out between the rows, or they may be pricked out on the borders of a
Peach-house, in either case spacing the plants nine inches apart.
Successive sowings made in February and March will be treated in the
same way, and will need less nursing. In planting out, it is important
to have the seedlings well hardened, for they are naturally susceptible
to wind and sunshine, and if suddenly exposed to either will be likely
to perish. Again, when first planted out their delicate leaves will
attract all the slugs and snails in the garden, and the discreet way of
acting is to regard a plantation of Lettuce as an extensive vermin
trap, and thus, knowing where the marauders are, to be ready to catch
and kill, or to destroy them by sprinklings of lime, salt, or soot, in
all cases being careful to keep these agents at a reasonable distance
from the plants.
Sowings in the open ground from the end of March onwards should be
made, not on an ordinary seed-bed, but on a plot loaded with rich
manure at one spit deep, and the seed should be put in shallow drills
one foot apart. From the time the young plants are two inches high they
must be drawn freely for ‘Cutting Lettuce,’ or for planting out
elsewhere; this thinning to proceed until a sufficient crop remains to
finish off on the ground. The value of ‘Cutting Lettuce’ is better
understood on the Continent than in this country. The small tender
plants are in daily use, and appear in the salad bowl with Water Cress
and Corn Salad, delicately dressed with delicious flavourings. After
this brief digression it is necessary to add that a crowded Lettuce
crop is an encumbrance to the ground; and one of the evils of the best
system, that of sowing where the crop is to finish, is the tendency of
the cultivator to be timid in the thinning, which should be done with a
bold hand, and in good time.
July and August Sowing.—From sowings made during these months the
supply of Lettuce from the open ground may be extended throughout the
autumn, and even into December or January should the weather prove
favourable. The main conditions essential to success are, the use of
quick-growing varieties, sowing in good soil where the heads are to
mature, and early and severe thinning. The thinnings may be
transplanted if required.