of procedure is to sow seed thinly in February or March in pots or pans
of fine soil placed on a gentle hot-bed or in a house where the
temperature is maintained at about 55°. Pot on the young plants as they
develop and keep them growing without a check. Spray twice daily, for
Capsicums require atmospheric moisture and the Red Spider is partial to
the plant. Nice specimens may be grown in pots five to eight inches in
diameter, beyond which it is not desirable to go, and as the summer
advances these may be taken to the conservatory. Plants intended for
fruiting in warm positions out of doors should be hardened off in
readiness for transfer at the end of May. In gardens favourably
situated, as are many in the South of England, it is sufficient to sow
a pinch of seed on an open border in the middle of May, and put a hand
glass over the spot. The plants from this sowing may be transferred to
any sunny position, and will yield an abundant crop of peppers.
The Bird Pepper or Chili is grown in precisely the same way as advised
for Capsicum.
To prepare the pods for pepper, put the required number into a wire
basket, and consign them to a mild oven for about twelve hours. They
are not to be cooked, but desiccated, and in most cases an ordinary
oven, with the door kept open to prevent the heat rising too high, will
answer perfectly. Being thus prepared, the next proceeding is to pound
them in a mortar with one-fourth their weight of salt, which also
should be dried in the oven, and used while hot. When finely pounded,
bottle securely, and there will be a perfect sample of Cayenne pepper
without any poisonous colouring. One hundred Chilis will make about two
ounces of pepper, which will be sufficient in most houses for one
year’s supply. The large ornamental Capsicums may be put on strings,
and hung up in a dry store-room, for use as required, to flavour soups,
make Chili vinegar, Cayenne essence, &c. The last-named condiment is
prepared by steeping Capsicums in pure spirits of wine. A few drops of
the essence may be used in any soup, or indeed wherever the flavour of
Cayenne pepper is required.
CARDOON
Cynara Cardunculus
This plant is nearly related to the Globe Artichoke, and it makes a
stately appearance when allowed to flower. Although the Cardoon is not
widely cultivated in this country, it is found in some of our best
gardens, and is undoubtedly a wholesome esculent from which a skilful
cook will present an excellent dish. The stalks of the inner leaves are
stewed, and are also used in soups, as well as for salads, during
autumn and winter. The flowers, after being dried, possess the property
of coagulating milk, for which purpose they are used in France.
In a retentive soil Cardoons should be grown on the flat, but the plant
is a tolerably thirsty subject, and must have sufficient water. Hence
on very dry soils it may be necessary to put it in trenches after the
manner of Celery, and then it will obtain the full benefit of all the
water that may be administered. In any case the soil must be rich and
well pulverised if a satisfactory growth is to be obtained.
Towards the end of April rows are marked out three or four feet apart,
and groups of seed sown at intervals of eighteen inches in the rows.
The plants are thinned to one at each station, and in due time secured
to stakes. Full growth is attained in August, when blanching is
commenced by gathering the leaves together, wrapping them round with
bands of hay, and earthing up. It requires from eight to ten weeks to
accomplish the object fully. The French method is quicker. Seed is sown
in pots under glass, and in May the plants are put out three feet
apart. When fully grown the Cardoons are firmly secured to stakes by
three small straw bands. A covering of straw, three inches thick, is
thatched round every plant from bottom to top, and each top is tied and
turned over like a nightcap. A little soil is then drawn to the foot,
but earthing up is needless. In about a month blanching is completed.
CARROT
Daucus Carota
The Carrot is a somewhat fastidious root, for although it is grown in
every garden, it is not everywhere produced in the best style possible.
The handsome long roots that are seen in the leading markets are the
growth of deep sandy soils well tilled. On heavy lumpy land long clean
roots cannot be secured by any kind of tillage. But for these
unsuitable soils there are Sutton’s Early Gem, the Champion Horn, and
Intermediate, which require no great depth of earth; while for deep
loams the New Red Intermediate answers admirably.
Forcing.—Carrots are forced in frames on very gentle hot-beds. They
cannot be well grown in houses, and they must be grown slowly to be
palatable. It is usual to begin in November, and to sow down a bed
every three or four weeks until February. A lasting hot-bed is of the
first importance, and it is therefore necessary to have a good supply
of stable manure and leaves. The material should be thoroughly mixed
and allowed to ferment for a few days. Then turn the heap again, and a
few days later the bed may be made up. In order to conserve the heat
the material will need to be three to four feet deep, and if a box
frame is used the bed should be at least two feet wider than the frame.
Build up the material in even, well-consolidated layers, to prevent
unequal and undue sinking, and make the corners of the bed perfectly
sound. Put on the bed about one foot depth of fine, rich soil; if there
is any difficulty about this, eight inches must suffice, but twelve is
to be preferred. As the season advances less fermenting material will
be needed, and a simple but effective hot-bed may be made by digging
out a hole of the required size and filling it with the manure. The
latter will in due time sink, when the soil may be added and the frame
placed in position. The bed should always be near the glass, and a
great point is gained if the crop can be carried through without once
giving water, for watering tends to damage the shape of the roots. No
seed should be sown until the temperature has declined to 80°. Sow
broadcast, cover with siftings just deep enough to hide the seed, and
close the frame. If after an interval the heat rises above 70°, give
air to keep it down to that figure or to 65°. It will probably decline
to 60° by the time the plant appears, but if the bed is a good one it
will stand at that figure long enough to make the crop. Thin betimes to
two or three inches, give air at every opportunity, let the plant have
all the light possible, and cover up when hard weather is expected.
Should the heat go down too soon, linings must be used to finish the
crop. Radishes and other small things can be grown on the same bed. In
cold frames seed may be sown in February.
Warm Borders.—In March the first sowings on warm borders in the open
garden may be made. These may need the shelter of mats or old lights
until the plant has made a good start, but it is not often the plant
suffers in any serious degree from spring frosts, as the seed will not
germinate until the soil acquires a safe temperature. All the early
crops of Carrot can be grown on a prepared soil, or a light sandy loam,
free from recent manure. The drills may be spaced from six to nine
inches apart.
For the main crops double digging should be practised, and if the
staple is poor a dressing of half-rotten dung may be put in with the
bottom spit. But a general manuring as for a surface-rooting crop is
not to be thought of, the sure effect being to cause the roots to fork
and fang most injuriously. It is sound practice to select for Carrots a
deep soil that was heavily manured the year before, and to prepare this
by double digging without manure in the autumn or winter, so as to have
the ground well pulverised by the time the seed is sown. Then dig it
over one spit deep, break the lumps, and make seed-beds four feet wide.
Sow in April and onwards in drills, mixing the seed with dry earth, the
distance between rows to be eight to twelve inches according to the
sort; cover the seed with a sprinkling of fine earth and finish the bed
neatly. As soon as possible thin the crop, but not to the full distance
in the first instance. The final spacing for main crops may be from six
to nine inches, determined by the variety. By a little management it
will be an easy matter during showery weather to draw delicate young
Carrots for the final thinning, and these will admirably succeed the
latest of the sowings in frames and warm borders.
Late Crops.—Sowings of early varieties made in July will give delicate
little roots during the autumn and winter. The rows may be placed nine
inches apart, and it is essential to thin the plants early to about
three inches apart in the rows. In the event of very severe weather
protect with dry litter. For providing young Carrots throughout the
winter it is also an excellent plan to broadcast seed thinly. When
grown in this way the plants afford each other protection, and the
roots may be drawn immediately they are large enough.
In July the culture of the smaller sorts may also be undertaken in
frames, but hot-beds may be dispensed with, and lights will not be
wanted until there is a crop needing protection, when the lights may be
put on, or the frames may be covered with shutters or mats.
Storing.—Before autumn frosts set in the main crop should be lifted and
stored in dry earth or sand, the tops being removed and the earth
rubbed off, but without any attempt to clean them thoroughly until they
are wanted for use.
Carrots for Exhibition.—It will be found well worth while to give a
little extra attention to the preparation of the ground when growing
Carrots for exhibition. As in the case of Beet and Parsnip, holes
should be bored to the requisite depth and about one foot apart in the
rows. Where the soil is at all unfavourable to the growth of clean
symmetrical roots the adoption of this practice will be essential to
success. Any light soil of good quality will be suitable for filling
the holes. Well firm the material in and sow about half a dozen seeds
at a station, eventually thinning out to one plant at each. The
tendency of Carrots to become green at the tops in the later stages of
growth, thus spoiling them for show work, may be prevented by lightly
covering the protruding portion of the root with sifted fine earth.
Destructive Enemies.—The Carrot maggot and the wire-worm are
destructive enemies of this crop. In a later chapter on ‘The Pests of
Garden Plants,’ both these foes are referred to. Here it is only
necessary to say that sound judgment as to the choice of ground, deep
digging, and the preparation of the beds in good time, are the
preventives of these as of many other garden plagues. It is often
observed that main crops sown early in April suffer more than those
sown late, and the lesson is plain. It has also been noticed that where
the crops have suffered most severely the land was made ready in haste,
and the wild birds had no time to purge it of the insects which they
daily seek for food.
CAULIFLOWER
Brassica oleracea botrytis cauliflora
This fine vegetable is managed in much the same way as Broccoli, and it
requires similar conditions. But it is less hardy in constitution, more
elegant in appearance, more delicate on the table, and needs greater
care in cultivation to insure satisfactory results. As regards soil,
the Cauliflower thrives best on very rich ground of medium texture. It
will also do well on light land, if heavily manured, and quick growth
is promoted by abundant watering. In Holland, Cauliflowers are grown in
sand with water at the depth of a foot only below the surface, and the
ground is prepared by liberal dressings of cow-manure, which, with the
moisture rising from below, promotes a quick growth and a fine quality.
In any case, good cultivation is necessary or the crop will be
worthless; and whatever may be the nature of the soil, it must be well
broken up and liberally manured.
In gardens where Cauliflower are in great demand, an unbroken supply of
heads from May to November may be obtained by selecting suitable
varieties and with careful management of the crop. But in arranging for
a succession it should be borne in mind that some varieties are
specially adapted for producing heads in spring and summer, while
others are only suitable for use in late summer and autumn.
For Spring and Early Summer use.—To have Cauliflower in perfection in
spring and early summer, seed should be sown in autumn. The exact time
is a question of climate. In the northern counties the middle of August
is none too early, but for the south seed may be got in during August
and September, according to local conditions. The most satisfactory
course is to sow in boxes, placed in a cool greenhouse or a cold frame,
or even in a sheltered spot out of doors. For these sowings it is
desirable to use poor soil of a calcareous nature, as at this period of
the year the seedlings are liable to damp off in rich earth. From the
commencement every endeavour must be made to keep the growth sturdy and
to avoid a check of any kind. When the plants have made some progress,
prick them off three inches apart each way into frames for the winter.
No elaborate appliances are necessary. A suitable frame may be easily
constructed by erecting wooden sides around a prepared bed of soil,
over which lights, window frames, or even a canvas covering may be
placed. Brick pits, or frames made with turf walls, will also answer
well. The soil should not be rich, or undesirable fleshy growth will
result, especially in a mild winter. It is important to ventilate
freely at all times, except during severe weather when the structures
should have the protection of mats or straw, and excessive moisture
must be guarded against. As soon as conditions are favourable in
February or March, transfer the plants to open quarters on the best
land at command, and give them every possible care. For these
early-maturing varieties a space of eighteen inches apart each way will
generally suffice. With liberal treatment, vigorous healthy growth
should be made and heads of the finest quality be ready for table from
May onwards.
As we have already said, the best results with early Cauliflower are
obtained from an autumn sowing, but there are many growers who prefer
to sow in January or February. At this season the seed should be
started in pans or boxes placed in a house just sufficiently heated to
exclude frost. Prick out the plants early, in a frame or on a protected
border made up with light rich soil, and when strong enough plant out
on good ground. Spring sowings put out on poor land, or in dry seasons,
are sometimes disappointing, because the heads are too small to please
the majority of growers. Where, however, the soil is rich and the
district suitable there is this advantage in quick cultivation, that
while time is shortened and the worry of wintering is avoided, the crop
is safer against buttoning and bolting, which will occasionally occur
if the plants become too forward under glass and receive a check when
planted out.
In well-prepared sheltered ground seed may also be sown in March and
April, from which the plants should be pricked out once before being
transferred to permanent positions. Occasional hoeing between the
plants and heavy watering in dry weather will materially tend to their
well-doing, the object being to maintain growth from the first without
a check. If the plants turn in during very hot weather, snap one of the
inner leaves without breaking it off, and bend it over to protect the
head.
For use in Late Summer and Autumn.—Seed may be sown in April or very
early in May, and where only one sowing is made the first week of April
should be selected. A fine seed-bed in a sheltered spot is desirable,
and as soon as the seedlings are large enough they should be pricked
out, three inches or so apart. Shift to final quarters while in a
smallish state. If the plants are allowed to become somewhat large in
the seed-bed they are liable to ‘button,’ which means that small,
worthless heads will be produced as the result of an untimely check.
The distances between the plants may vary from one and a half to two
feet or more, and between the rows from two to two and a half feet,
according to the size of the variety. If put out on good ground, the
crop will almost take care of itself, but should the plants need water
it must be copiously given.
Cutting and Preserving.—The management of the crop has been treated so
far as to growth, but we must now say a word about its appropriation.
The two points for practical consideration are, how to economise a
glut, and how to avoid destruction by frost. Cauliflowers should be cut
at daybreak, or as soon after as possible, and be taken from the ground
with the dew upon them. If cut after the dew has evaporated, the heads
will be inferior by several degrees as compared with those cut at the
dawn of the day. When the heads appear at too rapid a rate for
immediate consumption, draw the plants, allowing the earth to remain
attached to the roots, and suspend them head downwards in a cool, dark,
dry place, and every evening give them a light shower of water from a
syringe. The deterioration will be but trifling, and the gain may be
considerable, but if left to battle with a burning sun the Cauliflowers
will certainly be the worse for it. After being kept in this way for a
week, they will still be good, although, like other preserved
vegetables, they will not be so good as those freshly cut and in their
prime. It often happens that frost occurs before the crop is finished.
A similar plan of preserving those that are turning in may be adopted,
but it is better to bury them in sand in a shed or under a wall, and,
if kept dry, they may remain sound for a month or more.
Cauliflower for Exhibition.—On the exhibition stage few vegetables win
greater admiration than well-grown heads of Cauliflower. Indeed,
Cauliflower and Broccoli, in their respective seasons, are
indispensable items in the composition of any first-class collection.
By closely following the cultural directions contained in the foregoing
pages no difficulty should be experienced in obtaining heads of the
finest texture and spotless purity during many months of the year. The
degree of success achieved is generally in proportion to the amount of
attention devoted to minor details. Select the most robust plants and
treat them generously. As soon as the heads are formed, examine them
frequently to prevent disfiguration by vermin. The best period of the
day for cutting has already been discussed. Do not allow the heads to
stand a day longer than is necessary, and if not wanted immediately the
plants should be lifted and preserved in the manner described in the
preceding paragraph.
CELERY
Apium graveolens
Celery is everywhere esteemed, not only as a salad, but as a wholesome
and delicious vegetable. The crop requires the very best of
cultivation, and care should be taken not to push the growth too far,
for the gigantic Celery occasionally seen at Shows has, generally
speaking, the quality of size only, being tough and tasteless.
Nevertheless, the sorts that are held in high favour by growers of
prize Celery are good in themselves when grown to a moderate size; it
is the forcing system alone that deprives them of flavour. Yet another
precaution may be needful to prevent a mishap. In a hot summer, Celery
will sometimes ‘bolt’ or run up to flower, in which case it is
worthless. This may be the fault of the cultivator more than of the
seed or the weather, for a check in many cases hastens the flowering of
plants, and it is not unusual for Celery to receive a check through
mismanagement. If sown too early, it may be impossible to plant out
when of suitable size, and the consequent arrest of growth at a most
important stage may result in a disposition to flower the first year,
instead of waiting for the second. It should be understood, therefore,
that early sowing necessitates early planting, and the cultivator
should see his way clearly from the commencement.
Sowing and Transplanting.—The 1st of March is early enough for a first
sowing anywhere of a small variety, and this will require a mild
hot-bed, or a place in the propagating house. Sow on rich fine soil in
boxes, cover lightly, and place in a temperature of 60°. When forward
enough prick out the plants on a rich bed close to the glass, in a
temperature of 60° to 65°, keep liberally moist, and give air, at first
with great caution, but increasing as the natural temperature rises
until the lights can be removed during the day. The plant may thus be
hardened for a first planting on a warm border in a bed consisting of
one-half rotten hot-bed manure and one-half of turfy loam. The bed need
not be deep, but it must be constantly moist, and old lights should be
at hand to give shelter when needful. If well grown in trenches, this
first crop will be of excellent quality, and will come in early.
For the general crop a second sowing may be made of the finest Red and
White varieties, also on a mild hot-bed, in the second week of March,
and have treatment similar to the first, but once pricking out into the
open bed will be sufficient, the largest plants being put out first at
six inches, and to have shelter if needful; other plantings in the same
way to follow until the seed-bed is cleared. By good management this
sowing may be made to serve the purpose of three sowings, the chief
point being to prick out the most forward plants on another mild bed as
soon as they are large enough to be lifted, and to make a succession
from the same seed-bed as the plants advance to a suitable size.
The third and last sowing may be made in the second week of April, in
an open border, on rich light soil, and should have the shelter of mats
or old lights during cold weather. From this, also, there should be two
or three prickings out, the first to be transferred to a bit of hard
ground, covered with about three inches of rich mulchy stuff, in the
warmest spot that can be found, and the last to a similar bed on the
coldest spot in the garden. In the final planting the same order should
be followed. The result will be a prolonged supply from one sowing, and
the first lot will come in early, though sown late, if the plants are
kept growing without a check, and receive thoroughly generous culture.
The planting out is an important matter, and each lot will require
separate treatment, subordinate to one general and very simple plan.
Celery must have rich soil, abundant moisture, and must be blanched to
make it fit for table. There are various ways of accomplishing these
ends, although they differ but slightly, and common sense will guide us
in the matter. For the earliest crops the ground must be laid out in
trenches, with as much rich stable manure dug in as can be afforded. To
overdo it in this respect seems impossible, for Celery, like
Cauliflower, will grow freely in rotten manure alone, without any
admixture of loam. The trenches should be eighteen inches wide at
bottom, ten inches deep, and four feet from centre to centre, and
should run north and south. The plants are to be carefully lifted with
a trowel, and placed six to nine inches apart in single or double rows,
and should have water as planted, that there may be no check. In a cold
soil and a cold season the trenches may be less in depth by two or
three inches with advantage. If dry weather ensues, water must be given
ungrudgingly, but earthing up should not commence until the plant has
made a full and profitable growth, for the earthing pretty well stops
the growth, and is but a finishing process, requiring from five to
seven weeks to bring the crop to perfection. The second lot can be put
out in the same way, and other plantings may follow at discretion; but
as the season advances the trenches must be less deep.