see a Woman in private, and a Foreigner did not dare to run the Venture;
but now the case is quite different, for there are several Houses of
Quality where I am indulg'd, and am often _tête a tête_ with the Mistress
of the House, without any more notice taken of me than if I were in
_France_, where Ease and Freedom are so much boasted. The Ladies are
great Visiters, and have Assemblies every Night, to which they repair
alone in their Gondola's without any other Attendance but a Valet de
Chambre, who serves as their Gentleman-Usher. They are mask'd at all
public Performances, and go where they have a mind to it. This easy access
to the Ladies contributes not a little to make my Stay in this City
agreeable. I own to you that I am infinitely charm'd with it; there are a
thousand Things here that please me, and were I to chuse any City in
_Italy_ to live in, 'twould certainly be this, where People enjoy entire
Liberty, provided they don't meddle with the State and its Government,
which after all too, I don't think a Foreigner has much to do with. Here
one is in the Centre of civil Pleasures and Debauchery. God is as
exemplarily serv'd here as in any Place whatsoever. Few Nations observe
the Externals of Religion better than the _Italians_ in general and the
_Venetians_ in particular, of whom it may be said that they spend one half
of their time in committing Sin, and the other half in begging God's
pardon.
Masquerades are more in fashion here than elsewhere. People go in Masks to
take the Air, as well as to Plays and Balls; and 'tis the favourite
Pleasure both of the Grandees and the Commonalty. This gives rise to many
Adventures, and sometimes one makes Acquaintance under a Mask which would
be impracticable perhaps, were not such Disguises in Fashion. I remember
that the first time I was here I struck up an Acquaintance in the Square
of St. _Mark_ with two of the first-rate Ladies of this Country. They were
mask'd, and I was in a Scarlet Domino embroider'd with Silver, which being
a Habit that had been seldom seen here, drew the Eyes of all the Company
in the Square upon me, and in particular of two Ladies, one of whom
twitching me by the Sleeve, said to me, 'Sir, I and the Lady here, my
Friend, fancy by your Air which outstrips our Gentlemen, that you are a
Foreigner, and we are inclin'd to think that you are no mean Person. We
should be glad of your Conversation, and you will do us a Pleasure to take
a turn with us round the Square.--You do me too much Honour, fair Lady
(said I, walking on) and what you tell me of my Appearance pleases me the
more because you are both the compleatest Ladies in the Place. As you
guess by my Habit that I am not a common Person, your Air persuades me
that I have the Honour to speak to Ladies of Quality.--You are not
mistaken (said the same Lady to me) this Lady my Companion is Madame
_M----_ and I am the Wife of Mr. _C----_. You find (continu'd she) that
our Names are pretty well known in _Venice_. Now, after having told you
who we are, may we presume to ask who you are?' I gratify'd their
Curiosity by pulling off my Mask, which I thought a Compliment due to
their Quality. I had scarce told my Name, when the Lady who had not yet
spoke one Word, said to me, 'You are not so much a Stranger among us as
you imagine; your Name is very well known to me, and the late Madame
_Duhamel_, your Aunt, whose[164] Husband was Commander in chief of our
Forces, was one of my most intimate Friends, and she often told me how
much she wish'd to see you here; but 'twas a Comfort she did not live to
enjoy. She went with her Husband to _Corfou_, where he died not without
Suspicion of Poison; for he was accus'd of being too great a _Frenchman_;
and your Aunt who was return'd from _Corfou_ with a Design to go and
spend the Remainder of her Days at _Berlin_, died as she was performing
Quarentine in our Port. You caus'd her Body to be remov'd to _Berlin_, and
you was one of her Heirs; and, tho' I don't mention it to make a Merit of
it, I must tell you that you are oblig'd to me for it, since I pleaded for
you against a very great number of M. _Duhamel_'s Relations. My Love to
your Aunt put me upon engaging Mr. _M----_ to espouse your Interest, which
he promoted with Success, and prevail'd on the Senate to prefer the
Recommendations of the King of _Prussia_ and the Elector of _Hanover_ who
both protected you, before the Instances made by the _French_ Ambassador
in the Name of the King his Master, in favour of Messieurs _Duhamel_. I
was infinitely pleas'd (continu'd Madame _M----_) that I had an
Opportunity of serving you, and you may depend upon it that Mr. _M----_
and I shall ever interest our selves heartily for all that belong to our
deceased Friend.' I made answer to Madame _M----_ in Terms suitable to her
obliging Expressions, and crav'd her Permission to pay my respects to her
at her House. She answer'd me very civilly that she would send her Husband
to me, and that then she should be glad to see me at her House. Next
Morning as I was ready to go out, and wait upon Mr. _M----_ to whom I
thought I ow'd a Visit after the Civilities I had receiv'd from his Wife,
I was told that he was at my Door and desir'd to speak with me. I went and
receiv'd him, and found him every whit as polite as his Lady. He offer'd
to shew me the Curiosities of _Venice_ till his Wife was stirring. We went
and saw several Churches, after which he conducted me to his House where I
found Madame _M----_ who receiv'd me with all the Civility possible. She
was a Woman who tho' forty Years of Age shew'd that she had been a very
beautiful Lady in her time. Madame _C----_ happen'd to be in her Company,
with whom she had been the Day before in the Square of St. _Mark_. I never
saw a more beautiful Lady, or that had a nobler Carriage. She was not yet
twenty Years of Age, but had been marry'd five Years to a Man, who tho'
the most ill-favour'd of his Sex had a most amiable Behaviour. I fell in
love with Madame _C----_ as soon as ever I saw her, and when I beheld her
Husband, I had Presumption enough to believe that my Application to the
Lady would not be disagreeable. But I soon perceiv'd that she was not a
Woman for my turn; she quickly depriv'd me of all Hopes of Success; and I
no sooner saw those Hopes vanish'd, which are the only Support of Lovers,
but I dropp'd my Amour. I had another in view which was attended with
better Success: M. _M----_ carry'd me to a Country-House of his towards
_Padua_, and I don't know where I was ever more agreeably entertain'd in
my whole Life. 'Tis at these Country Seats one sees the _Venetians_ in
Perfection, who are quite another sort of People here than in the City;
for here they put off that grave serious Air which they affect in Town,
and are quite sociable, civil, courteous, and live with more splendor. As
these Country-Houses are near one another, the Gentlemen to whom they
belong visit each other very much, and are almost always together; but at
_Venice_ they live with more Restraint.
I am in some doubt whether I should reckon the Music of the _Venetian_
Churches in the number of its Pleasures; but upon the whole, I think I
ought, because certainly their Churches are frequented more to please the
Ear, than for real Devotion. The Church of _la Pieta_ which belongs to the
Nuns who know no other Father but Love, is most frequented. These Nuns are
enter'd very young, and are taught Music, and to play on all sorts of
Instruments, in which some of 'em are excellent Performers. _Apollonia_
actually passes for the finest Singer, and _Anna-Maria_'s for the first
Violin in _Italy_. The Concourse of People to this Church on Sundays and
Holidays is extraordinary. 'Tis the Rendezvous of all the Coquettes in
_Venice_, and such as are fond of Intrigues have here both their Hands and
Hearts full. Not many Days after my Arrival in this City I was at this
very Church, where was a vast Audience, and the finest of Music. As I was
going out, a Woman who hid her Face accosted me, saying, there was a Lady
in a Gondola who desir'd to speak with me. Tho' this smelt strong of an
Adventure, which I was never very fond of, I however went along with the
Woman; and really, not above ten Paces from the Spot I found a Gondola, in
which was a Lady whom I knew to be the Daughter of the unfortunate Baron
_de H----_ of whose tragical Catastrophe you have heard. I own it mov'd my
Compassion, as well as Sorrow, to see before my Eyes a young Lady of Rank
in a strange Country and in such a Situation as made me surmise that she
was in a bad Way. But it even touch'd me to the quick, when after having
made her Apology to me for having sent for me, she said to me with a Voice
interrupted with Sighs, 'For God's sake tell me what's become of my poor
Father; is he still living? He has been the Cause of his own Unhappiness
and mine too; he has plung'd me into an Abyss of Woe, but he is still my
Father: Nothing can make me forget the Duty I owe him; I should be glad
even to lay down my Life to relieve his Misfortunes.' I told her that I
had not been at _Berlin_ for a long time; that I had not kept up a
Correspondence there with any body, and that consequently I could not tell
her any News of her Father. I knew at the same time that he died in
Prison at _Spandaw_; but I was loth to be the Messenger of such bad News
to a Person who seem'd to be already too much afflicted. 'I did not know
you were at _Venice_ (reply'd Madamoiselle _de H----_) or I should have
sought an Opportunity to speak with you. I saw you at the Church of _la
Pieta_, and the sight of you call'd my Misfortunes fresh to my Memory, as
well as the sad Catastrophe of your old Friend my Father. I could not
refrain shedding Tears, and the Remembrance of my Disgrace has eclips'd
the Pleasure I take in seeing you.' I endeavour'd to assuage her Grief,
and to calm her ruffled Soul; and therefore I went with her to her House,
and when I saw her a little compos'd I ask'd her questions about her state
of Life, and desir'd her to tell me how she had pass'd her time since she
left _Berlin_. She answer'd me in every Point with a great deal of Honesty
and Simplicity. 'After the Execution of that Sentence (said she) which
degraded my Father from Nobility and Honour, and set him on a level with
the basest Scoundrels, I had not the Courage to stay at _Berlin_. I went
to _H----_ to find out Madame _de B----_ my Aunt from whom I hoped to meet
with Protection; but I soon experienc'd that the Unfortunate have no
Relations. My Aunt would not give me House-room, and sent a Confident of
her's to tell me that she advis'd me to be gone from _H----_ or else to
change my Name and not to call me her Cousin, unless I had a Desire to be
confin'd. But alas! I would then have taken it as a Favour if my Aunt had
shut me up; for I was in extreme Want, and knew not what would become of
me. I lodg'd at an Inn where I got my Living by making of Linnen and
Washing, when a good likely young Man came and took up his Quarters in the
very same House, who immediately struck up an Acquaintance with me. I know
not what he saw in me to charm him, for I did nothing but cry all the day
long. Mean time he talk'd to me of Love, and gave me so many
Demonstrations of his flaming Passion that I found he was really smitten
with me. To tell you the whole Truth, I was not long insensible of the
same Passion. He even offer'd to marry me, which, since he would not be
deny'd, I consented to. He told me that he was an Officer in the Emperor's
Service, and a Native of _Lubeck_, and that he was come hither to take
possession of an Estate fallen to him by Inheritance. I took what he said
to be true because he was handsomely equipp'd, and had his Pockets well
lin'd. In short, I was smitten with him, and thought I should be very
happy in taking him for my Husband. Not many Days after our Marriage, he
told me that he must needs set out for _Hungary_ where the Regiment was
quarter'd, whereof he said he was a Lieutenant, and that consequently I
must make ready to go with him.--We set out from _H----_ and arriv'd
happily at _Vienna_. It was in that very City that my Husband, who till
then behav'd well towards me, and whose Conduct had been very regular,
chang'd all on a sudden to the reverse. He spent the whole Day in
Gaming-Houses, and the Night in Debauchery. Sometimes he never once came
home for four or five Days together, and when he did, 'twas only to insult
me, and to upbraid me with the misfortune of my Father, which I discover'd
to him before Marriage, for fear he should reproach me one time or other
with having deceiv'd him. He told me that I was a Disgrace to him, that
his Colonel had broke him for marrying me, and that I was the Author of
his Ruin. I try'd to pacify him, and spar'd no Pains nor Complaisance for
it, but all to no purpose. I heard that my Husband was desperately in love
with a common Prostitute, that he had ruin'd himself for her sake; and in
a little time he was oblig'd to sell the very Clothes off his back. He had
contracted Debts, and expecting every day to be arrested by his Creditors,
he left _Vienna_ privately, abandoning me to the most dreadful Despair.
'Twas eight Months before I heard a Word of him. At last I came to know
that he was here at _Venice_, and I resolv'd to find him out. Madame the
Countess of _W----_ who had generously assisted me, fitted me out for the
Journey, but when I came hither I did not find my Husband, who I heard was
at _Padua_. I was making my self ready to follow him thither, when I heard
the News that he was kill'd by a Student with whom he had a Quarrel at
Gaming. His Death fill'd up the Measure of my Sorrow. I found my self
quite a Stranger here without Friends or Subsistence. I endeavour'd, but
in vain, to get my Living by my Labour, as I had done at _H----_ but I
found so little to do that 'twas impossible for me to hold out long; and I
must undoubtedly have sunk under my Misery if it had not been for the
noble _D----_ who out of Pity to my Condition reliev'd me six Years ago by
granting me a Pension: But how happy should I be if I could live without
it, and retire for ever to some religious Foundation!' Here the
unfortunate _H----_ concluded her Narrative. I sifted her Sentiments about
Religion: I knew she had been educated in the _Lutheran_, but she
express'd her Inclination to embrace the Catholic Religion, and also to
turn Nun. I promis'd to serve her all that lay in my power, and that same
Evening I spoke to Madame _M----_ who promis'd me to enter her into Orders
as soon as she was turn'd Catholic. A Jesuit who has had the tutoring of
her for near a Month gives us Hopes that she will instantly be qualify'd
to take the Veil. She seems to me to be very eager for it. A few days ago
I acquainted her with her Father's Death, with which she seem'd very much
affected, but at the same time she express'd her Submission to the Decrees
of Providence, and told me her Misfortunes with so much Resignation, that
I have Reason to think she will be very happy in the Retirement which she
is about to embrace. If this be the Case, I shall think my self very
fortunate in having contributed by my Advice to her Tranquillity. Heaven
grant her Prayers may prevail that I my self may put those Lessons in
practice which I have taught her, as to the Necessity of Conversion.
Pardon me, Sir, this long Digression. As you knew the unfortunate _H----_
in his Prosperity, and as you are also inform'd of his Disgrace, I thought
you would not be sorry to hear of the Fate of his Daughter. I now resume
my Remarks on _Venice_.
Two Days ago I went to see the _Scuola St. Rocco_, which are Rooms where
the Fraternities of that Saint meet, in which are Pictures done by the
greatest Masters, particularly one in the great Room below, which is the
Picture of the _Annunciation_ done by _Tintoret_, a Piece highly esteem'd.
This Picture is, without Contradiction, one of the finest and most
affecting Paintings at _Venice_, because of the lively Expressions of
Surprise, Admiration, and Joy which appear in the _Virgin's_ Face. She is
sitting in her Chamber, which the skilful Painter has represented as a
plain mean Room in some Disorder with old and worn out Furniture. Upon the
grand Stair-case there's another Picture representing the _Annunciation_
in like manner, which is done by _Titian_, and is not one of the worst of
his Performances. The upper Rooms are adorn'd with several Pictures done
by _Tintoret_, in which he has described our Lord's Passion. Our Saviour
appearing before _Pilate_ is an admirable Piece; 'tis really moving to see
the Modesty and Serenity of his Countenance. A second Picture represents
our Lord carrying his Cross. In a third, we see him fasten'd on it, and
expiring for the Salvation of Mankind. These are invaluable Pieces, and
are reckon'd the compleatest that ever _Tintoret_ painted.
I have also been to see the chief Palaces, which lie for the most part on
the great Canal, and that call'd _Reggio_. They are very magnificent, but
they are generally so like one another that he who has seen one may say he
has seen them all. They have little Court-Yards, less Gardens, and no
Stables. Nothing goes to form a Palace at _Venice_ but the main Body of
the Building, a great Salon in the middle, and Apartments on the Right and
Left; and setting aside the Marble, there are Palaces as magnificent
elsewhere which have only the name of a House.
The Square of St. _Mark_ is the ordinary Rendezvous of all the Gentry at
_Venice_. There are Nobles who keep their constant Circuits here as it
were, and who never stir from the Place but to Bed, for they pass their
whole Time in Gaming at the Coffee-Houses, or in the Peruke-Makers Shops.
The number of their Nobles is not limited; and any body for paying down
100000 Ducats may purchase Nobility. These Gentlemen compliment each other
with the Title of _Excellency_, and 'tis what they all challenge from
Foreigners. Mean time, some of those _Excellencies_ go to the Shambles,
and to the Fish-Market, and carry home their Meat or their Fish under
their Robes, and some are so very poor that they go a begging. This Title
is so very common here that I had much ado to hinder a Lackey whom I hired
from giving it to me. Tho' I told him that I was by no means _Excellent_,
he made me answer that he knew full well what Obligations were due to my
Excellency, and that he would not be thought to be wanting in Respect to
my Excellency. A _Frenchman_ lately come from _Constantinople_ to whom I
made my Complaints, how much this Title was prophan'd, assur'd me that the
_Venetians_ were still more lavish of it out of _Venice_, so that he heard
the very Grooms belonging to the Baillo of the Republic at
_Constantinople_, compliment one another with the Title of _Excellency_.
Among the _Venetian_ Excellencies there are also _Petits-Maitres_ who are
known by their Doublets lin'd with Scarlet, their fine white Perukes, by
their fantastical Step, and that Air of lolling which they give themselves
in their Gondola's, which are much smaller and nimbler than the common
sort. These _Petits-Maitres_ are great Beaus, and have commonly more than
one Mistress at a time, and indeed there are few Nobles but have one at
least. These Creatures, excepting the little Liberty they enjoy, are as
happy as Sultana's. Their Lovers treat them like Princesses, and the
_Venetians_ in general pay great respect to the whole Sex. I have seen
_Faustina_ the famous Singer, and _Stringuetta_ the noted Courtezan come
mask'd upon the Square of St. _Mark_, leaning on the Shoulders of
Noblemen, and every Man paying them as much Obeisance as if they had been
Ladies of great Importance. The same day that they appear'd on the Square
there happen'd to be a Skirmish between two Women mask'd that were Rivals,
who, as soon as they knew one another, fell out, went to Cuffs, tore off
each other's Masks, and at last Knives were drawn, with which they cut one
another so deeply that one of 'em was left dead on the Spot.
* * * * *
I now think it high time to finish my Letter which is already very long,
and perhaps too full of Trifles. I have told you every Thing that came
uppermost in my Mind, so that you have a perfect Farrago, which however
is a Proof of the Pleasure I take in corresponding with you.
[Illustration]
LETTER XXVII.
_SIR_, _Ronciglione, May 30, 1730._
As it appears by all the Letters from _Rome_ that they are on the point of
chusing a new Pope, I set out sooner from _Venice_ than I should otherways
have done, and came post to this City without stopping much by the Way. I
pass'd thro' PADUA, where I had the Honour to pay my Respects to the
Prince _Emanuel_ of _Portugal_, who is come to reside there for some time,
and I was afterwards at the Comedy, which was indeed, a most wretched
Performance, but the Assembly was gay and numerous: Among the rest there
were a great number of Students and young Fellows, particularly one that
made a very finical Appearance, who had ten or twelve Patches on his Face,
a red Coat embroider'd with black Gawse, a Hat, a Shoulder-Knot,
Stockings, _&c._ the whole trimm'd with Gawse. I took him at first for a
Mountebank, but I plainly saw that the Whimsicalness of his Dress was the
Humour of the Country. What gave me some Amusement was, to see a Hare
which Harlequin had taught to play Tricks, to tumble Top over Tail, to
leap over a Stick, and to beat a Drum with his two Fore-feet.
From _Padua_ I went to FERRARA a City in the Ecclesiastical State, where
the Pope keeps a Legat who is always a Cardinal. It appear'd to me to be a
large City with spacious Streets, and some fine Palaces, but it did not
seem to be very populous, which is ascrib'd to the bad Air in this
Country, otherwise one of the finest in all _Italy_.
The Road from _Ferrara_ to BOLOGNA is extremely level, and as good and
agreeable in Summer as 'tis unpassable in Winter. _Bologna_ is the second
City in the Ecclesiastical State, and is a large fine Town. 'Tis in a most
charming Situation, all the Country round it being properly a Garden, and
one of the most fruitful and fairest Plats in Nature. 'Tis said this City
contains near 80000 Inhabitants. The common People are civil and well
bred, and none more polite to Foreigners than the Noblemen. There are
stately Palaces here, of which I will only mention that of the Marquis
_Rinucci_, because to me it seem'd to be one of the most considerable in
the City. 'Tis very magnificent, and of a vast extent. The Ground-Floor
contains three large Apartments, the first Story five, and the second as
many. The Stair-case of this Palace is very much esteem'd for its
Contrivance. In one of the Halls are two large Pictures: The first is the
Consecration of the Emperor _Charles_ V. perform'd by the Pope at
_Bologna_: The second represents _Frederic_ IV. King of _Denmark_ giving
Audience to the Senate of _Bologna_: and their complimenting him on his
Arrival. In another of those Halls are two other curious large Pictures;
the one of Cardinal _Rinucci_, having Audience of the King of _Poland_
when he was sent to him as Nuncio; and the second shews the same Cardinal
receiving the Cap from _Lewis_ XIV. King of _France_, at whose Court he
was Nuncio when he was promoted to the Purple. The Apartments adjoining to
these Halls are also adorn'd with excellent Paintings and very richly
furnish'd.
The Churches of _Bologna_ are not less magnificent than the finest
Churches in _Italy_. I thought that of St. _Paul_ the most worthy of
Remark, which is serv'd by _Bernardine_ Fryars. The Roof is adorn'd with
Paintings representing the History of St. _Paul_. These Pictures which are
highly esteem'd are the Performances of _Antonio Caccioli_ and _Rolli_ two
Natives of _Bologna_, and they have both out-done themselves. The Painting
of the Dome where St. _Paul_ is represented on his Knees ready to have his
Head struck off is admirably fine. The high Altar is of Marble of various
Colours, finish'd with a great deal of Art. The Seats of the Monks are of
Wallnut-Tree, and over them are several Pictures of the Life of St. _Paul_
drawn by an able Hand, who was _Carache_'s Pupil. The Churches of St.
_Catherine_ of _Bologna_, and St. _Michael_ in _Bosco_ are well worth the
Traveller's Observation, on account of the choice Pictures with which they
are adorn'd. St. _Michael_'s in _Bosco_ stands upon an Eminence three
Miles from _Bologna_, to which there's an Entrance thro' a cover'd Gallery
made like a Piazza. 'Twas a Work erected by the Citizens of _Bologna_, out
of their Devotion to a miraculous Image of the _Holy Virgin_ which is
reverenc'd in this Church.
The Legate's Palace is very ancient, but grand and magnificent. 'Tis as
strictly guarded during the Vacancy of the Holy See as if the Enemy were
at the Gates of the City. All the Avenues to it are hung with Chains: The
_Swiss_ Guards are arm'd with Cuirasses: The Guard which consists of fifty
Soldiers is barricaded with Pallisades and Chevaux de Frise, and the
Palace-Gate is defended by eight Pieces of Cannon.