Cities in _Italy_ where a Foreigner finds most Amusement. The Nobility not
only strive to give him Pleasure, but he has fine Paintings to feast his
Eye, and here are often excellent Concerts of Music, Operas, and Comedies,
charming Walks, and genteel Country-Houses; which I take to be all that
can be desir'd in Life.
From _Bologna_ I travell'd in two days to _Florence_, after having been
dragg'd in my Chaise thro' the _Apennines_, a prodigious Range of
Mountains; which is a thing I shall never do again while I live; for I
really suffer'd very much in this Road, and if ever you should have a
fancy to come this way, I would advise you to carry Provisions or a Cook
with you, for there is not one considerable Place in all the Road.
_Fiorenzola_, which is almost half way, is a sorry little Town. From
thence to _Scarperia_ the Road is extremely rugged. One descends a high
Mountain pav'd like a Stair-case, which to attempt in a Chaise, you are
sure of being, if I may so call it, broke upon the Wheel, and therefore I
chose to walk down. At _Scarperia_ the Road becomes more passable, and it
mends as you come near _Florence_. In our Way we pass'd thro' a Town
call'd _Ponte_ that stands at the Foot of a Hill, where the Great Duke has
a Castle which appear'd to me to be very well fortify'd.
One perceives FLORENCE a great way off, and indeed it makes a fine point
of View to see so great a City in a beautiful Valley between Hills which
rise insensibly, and end at length in high Mountains, inhabited in such a
manner that they may be reckon'd the Suburbs of _Florence_. The River
_Arno_ passes thro' both the City and the Valley. Among all the Cities of
_Italy_, _Florence_ may justly be surnamed the _Fair_, since it has all
that can be desir'd in a great and wealthy Town, such as sacred and
profane Edifices, Bridges, Monuments, and Fountains; yet 'tis not so
large nor populous as _Bologna_. As I enter'd _Florence_ I perceived over
the Gate a Table of white Marble with a _Latin_ Inscription on it, as
follows:
FLORENTIA, ADVENTU FRIDERICI IV. DANIÆ ET NORVEGIÆ, AUGUSTI,
FELICIS, QUOD EAM SUA PRÆSENTIA MAGNUS HOSPES IMPLEVERIT,
AUGUSTA FELIX, AN. S. 1708. MENSE MARTIO.
'Twas the late Great Duke _Cosmo_ who caus'd this to be engrav'd to the
Honour of the King of _Denmark_.
The City of _Florence_ has been so well describ'd that I shall pass very
briefly over all that relates to the Buildings. The Square call'd _Piazza
del Gran Duca_ or the old Palace, contains Ornaments enough to embellish a
great Town. Here you see a spacious Fountain which _Cosmo_ I. caus'd to be
built after the Designs of _Amminati_ and _Philip Baldinucci_, two of the
most famous Sculptors at that Time. Not far from this Fountain is the
Equestrian Statue of _Cosmo_ I. which is rais'd upon a great Pedestal of
white Marble, with this Inscription engrav'd on the chief Front of it:
COSMO MEDICI, MAGNO ETRURIÆ DUCI PRIMO, PIO, FELICI, INVICTO,
JUSTO, CLEMENTI, SACRÆ MILITIÆ PACISQUE IN ETRURIA AUTHORI,
PATRI ET PRINCIPI OPTIMO, FERDINANDUS F. MAG. DUX III. EREXIT,
AN. CI[REVERSED C] I[REVERSED C] LXXXXIIII.
On the other three Sides of the Pedestal are very fine Bas-Reliefs of
Brass. The first represents _Cosmo_ I. recogniz'd for Sovereign by the
Senate of _Florence_; the second the Ceremony of _Cosmo_'s Coronation,
and the third the same _Cosmo_ in an antique triumphant Car making his
pompous Entry into _Sienna_, which was submitted to his Government.
_Ferdinand_ I. _de Medicis_ when he erected this Statue to the Honour of
his Father, employ'd in the Direction of it the famous _John Bologna_, who
has very well answer'd the Opinion that had been conceiv'd of him.
In the Great Duke's Gallery near the Square, I saw the greatest
Curiosities, both among the Antients and Moderns. A Busto of _Alexander_
the Great, the famous Statue of _Venus_, cut by _Apollodorus_, with those
of the Emperors and Empresses of _Rome_, and the greatest Personages of
former Centuries; the best Originals of the greatest Painters; and a
thousand uncommon things, such as Diamonds, Rubies, Pearls, Emeralds,
Saphirs, Topazes, Amber, Porcellain, Crystal, Porphyry, Coral, Marble, and
Granite, the Particulars of which wou'd form a Volume. They are actually
engraving on Plates, and several Persons of Quality are contributing to
the Expence of this fine Work, which is considerable, and for which
excellent Designers are employ'd. This wou'd have been worthy of the Great
Duke, and it seems to me that this Prince when he sees his Family extinct,
and his Estate pass into the hands of Foreigners, ought at least to
eternize the Glory of his Ancestors by publishing an Inventory of the
immense Wealth which they have acquired, and transmitted to their
Posterity.
Of all the Churches in _Italy_ there are none more magnificent as to the
outside than the Dome of _Milan_, and the Cathedral of _Florence_, both
which are entirely lin'd with Marble of various Colours. A Citizen of
_Florence_, who pretended to know the History of this City perfectly well,
assur'd me that its Cathedral was built out of the Impost of five _Sous_
which had been laid upon every Piece of Cloth that was then sold at
_Florence_; but I believe you may without Breach of Charity take this for
a Story.
Over against the Cathedral is the magnificent Baptistery, to which there's
an Entrance thro' three Gates of Brass, so artfully wrought that _Michael
Angelo_ said they were good enough to be the Gates of Paradise.
St. _Laurence_'s Chapel, which is not yet finish'd, is the Admiration of
all Connoisseurs, and is design'd to be the Place for the Burial of the
Great Dukes, whose Remains are to be deposited in a Mausoleum of wonderful
Workmanship, adorn'd with precious Stones. 'Tis 150 years ago that this
Chapel has been building, and yet it wants two Thirds of being finish'd.
If it were lawful to criticise the Conduct of Princes, I must say it
again, that the Great Duke, who sees that his Greatness and his Family
must end with him, ought to put the last hand to this Monument of the
Magnificence of the _Medicis_: For can he hope, that if he himself
neglects to transmit the Lustre of his Family to Posterity, his Successors
will think to do it, who are nothing to him, or at least but very little?
But such is the Humour of _John Gaston_ Great Duke of _Tuscany_; he is so
indifferent and unconcern'd about every thing, that he sees Foreigners
dispose of his Dominions, and nominate his Successor, and the Courtiers
ready to abandon him and to worship the said Successor; and yet the
Prospect, how disagreeable soever it may be, does not seem to give him any
Uneasiness: And he said some days ago, after he had sign'd his Last Will
and Testament, declaring _Don Carlos_ Infante of _Spain_ his Successor,
_that he had just got a Son and Heir by a Dash of his Pen, which he had
not been able to get in thirty four years Marriage_.
Thus, Sir, I have given all you will have of me this time touching
_Florence_, where I cou'd stay but a few days, and then made no
Acquaintance, having only been taken up in seeing the Curiosities of this
City. At my Return from _Rome_ I propose to come hither again, and make
some stay in order to get a little Knowledge of the Court; and then you
shall be inform'd of every Remark that I make.
From _Florence_ I went and din'd at _Castilloncello_, and lay at SIENNA a
City in the Duchy of _Tuscany_, to which _Cosmo_ I. _de Medicis_ made it
subject, not without great Resistance from the _Siennois_. The City which
is both an Archbishoprick and an University, is very pleasantly situate,
and enjoys a very good Air. 'Tis said that _Italian_ is spoke here with
more Purity than in any other Town in _Italy_. It seem'd to me to want
Inhabitants, for I went thro' several Streets and did not meet a Soul.
'Tis said that a great many of the Nobility are settled in _Sienna_, and
that Strangers are sure to meet with a civil Reception here, but as I
staid no more than one day, I had only a cursory View of the Town. The
Cathedral appear'd to me to be a great and noble Building lin'd with
Marble. The Great Duke's Palace is ancient, but commodious. It has a Tower
which is look'd upon as a singular piece of Architecture. The Great
Princess[165] _Violante_ of _Bavaria_ is Governess of _Sienna_. She liv'd
formerly in this City, and was mightily belov'd in it; but she has resided
for some time at _Florence_. The Square which is before the Palace is
oval, and hollow in the Middle, so that it may be laid under-water like
the Square _Navona_ at _Rome_.
From _Sienna_ to _Viterbo_ the Road is extremely bad, I passed the
Mountain of _Radifocani_, situate in one of the vilest Countries in all
_Italy_. At the top of the Mountain there's a Castle, where a Garison of
fifteen Men is kept, with a Commanding Officer, whom I found at the House
of Entertainment where I alighted. He had been a Lieutenant in _France_ in
the Royal _Italian_ Regiment, and spoke very good _French_. He told me
that the Inhabitants under his Government were as bad as the Country, of
which some Moments after, I saw a Proof. A Mule-driver having a Quarrel
with the Drawer, the latter stabb'd him with a Knife in the Rim of the
Belly, with as much Sedateness as if he had been doing a good Action; and
the Commandant never caus'd the Assassin to be apprehended: for which when
I express'd my Surprize to him, he said he had nothing to do out of his
Place; and that besides he did not dare to cause the Assassin to be
apprehended, because he had three Brothers as wicked as himself, who wou'd
not fail to take a Revenge if he was punish'd. And then, said he, I shou'd
have enough to do if I were to cause all to be apprehended who give Wounds
with Knives.
AQUAPENDENTE is a sorry little Town, and yet a Metropolis. BOLSENA is no
better, and MONTEFIASCONE tho' a Bishoprick, wou'd not be worth
mentioning, were it not for its Vineyards which produce excellent
_Muscadine_ Wine.
VITERBO, three Leagues from _Montefiascone_, seem'd to me to be a pretty
Town. 'Tis adorn'd with three fine Fountains, and pav'd with great Flint
Stones which are four foot long and two foot broad. This City has some
fine Houses in it. 'Tis the See of a Bishop, and its Cathedral is a
Structure which does not want for Grandeur. In this Church the Archbishop
and Elector of _Cologn_ was consecrated by Pope _Benedict_ XIII. who came
hither on purpose to save the Elector all manner of dispute about
Precedency with the Cardinals; who were in their turn so disgruntled with
the Pope, that none of them accompany'd him in this Journey.
MONTEROSO is a pretty Town, but RONCIGLIONE outdoes it; and indeed in all
the Ecclesiastical State there is not a pleasanter. It drives a great
Trade in Snuff. I came hither yesterday at Noon, and don't think of going
away 'till this Evening, my Chaise being broke. I hope however to lie this
Night at _Rome_, from whence I purpose to send you many good Stories
forthwith. You will do me a Pleasure to let me hear from you; and to
believe me in _Italy_, as well as elsewhere, yours, _&c._
_End of Volume_ I.
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An Alphabetical INDEX
TO THE
FIRST VOLUME.
A.
_Abbesses_ of two Convents, the Ceremony of marrying them by every Doge
of _Venice_, 400.
Their Dress, 401.
_Agrippina_, Empress of _Rome_, 250.
_Ahlen-Castle_, in the Dutchy of _Zell_; the Retreat of the Duke's
unfortunate Daughter, 62.
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, _t._ 199, 341.
_Albert_, Margrave of _Brandenbourg_, 82.
_Albert_ I. Emperor, 388.
_Albert_ II. Emperor, 388.
_Aller_, R. 61.
_Alpes_, for whom those Mountains were made, 395.
ALTENA, _t._ 53, 57.
Distress of the Inhabitants, 58.
Privileg'd Place for Bankrupts, 59.
ALTENBOURG, _t._ 167.
_Altheim_, Count and Countess, 255, 256.
_Amelia_, Empress of Germany, 228 to 230, &c. 344.
_Amminati_, Sculptor, 426.
_Andrew_, Cardinal of _Austria_, 390.
St. _Andrew_'s Order of _Muscovy_, 76.
_Angelo, Michael_, his saying that certain Gates were good enough for
Paradise, 428.
_Anhalt-Cothen_, Princess, 173.
_Anhalt-Dessau Leopold_, Pr. 37.
His Amour and Marriage, and his Menace to shoot his Tutor, 38, 39.
His Character by the late D. of _Savoy_, 39.
His Valour, 39, 40.
His Government, 82.
_Augustus Lewis_, Pr. his Wives and Issue, 83.
_Anhalt-Zerbst, Magdalen-Augusta_, Duchess of _Saxe-Gotha_, 181.
_Anna-Maria_'s Violin, 415.
_Anne_, Princess Royal of _Denmark_, and Electress-Dowager of _Saxony_,
100.
_Anne-Frederica_, of _Promnitz_, 83.
_Anne-Sophia-Charlotte_, of _Prussia_, Duchess of _Saxe-Eysenach_, 183.
_Annunciation-Pictures_, done by _Tintoret_ and _Titian_, 419.
ANSPACH, 193, 204.
See _Brandenbourg_.
_Anthony-Ulric_, D. of _Brunswic-Lunenburg-Wolfembuttle_, 69, 71, 73,
75, 79.
_Antinous_'s Statue, 370.
_Antonietta-Amelia_ of _Brunswic-Blanckenbourg_, 72.
_Apollodorus_ Statuary, 427.
_Apollonia_, the Singer, 415.
_Appel_, a Merchant at _Leipsic_, his House the Residence of the K. of
_Poland_, 85.
_Appennine_ Mountains, 425.
AQUAPENDENTE, _t._ 430.
_Arch-duchess_, 232, 233, 381.
_Architecture_, the best Article that Princes can lay out their Money
in, 10.
_Aremberg_, Duke and Duchess Dowager, 332, 333.
_Argenson_, M. de, 303.
_Arlington_, Countess of, 67.
_Arnheim_, Marshal de, 40.
_Arnim, Sigismond_ de, 146.
_Arnould_, St. 366.
_Arthur_, Prince of Wales, 389.
AUGSBOURG, _t._ 273.
Its Comparison with _Antwerp_, 275.
Its chief Trade, 275, 276.
_Augusta_, of _Saxe-Gotha_, Princess of _Wales_, 182.
_Augustus_ III. K. of _Poland_, 97, 99.
His Travels and Conversion to Popery, 101.
His Marriage, 102, 165.
His Love and Duty to his Father, 104.
His Election and Coronation, 106.
His Tutor, 126, 127.
His Queen, 98.
Their Children, 99.
_Augustus-William_ D. of _Brunswic-Lunenburg Wolfembuttle_, 69, 71, 73.
_Augustus-Albert_, Prince of _Prussia_, 113.
_Augustus_, Emperor, 273.
_Aulic Council_, at _Berlin_, 14.
At _Vienna_, 244.
St. _Austin_'s Tract of the City of God, 179.
_Austria_, House, of whom it now consists, 233.
A Wish that it never may be extinct, 233.
Its great Alliances, 250.
_Austrian Princes_, remarkable for an Air of Gravity, 112.
Their People's Avertion to the _Bohemians_, 222.
The scurvy Pun of a _French_ Jester upon them, 228.
Their Epicurism, 253.
Pride, 254.
Their Fondness for the Title of Count, 255.
_Austrian_ and _Lorrain_ Families united, 233, 341.
_Auvergne_, Princesses, 332, 333.
B.
_Backover_, M. Chancellor of _Saxe-Gotha_, 182.
_Baden-Baden_, Margrave and Margravine, 213, 299, 300.
_Baden-Dourlach, Christian_, Margrave of, 183, 279.
_Charles_, 293, 296. 298.
Margravine, 298, 300, 301, 304.
_Badiani_, Count, 244.
_Bahlberg, Adolphus_, Baron of, 184.
_Baldinucci, Philip_, the Sculptor, 426.
_Balls_ of _Bohemia_, compar'd with those in the _Hay-Market_, 223.
BAMBERG, t. 201, &c. the mighty Prerogative of its Bishop, 201.
BARBI, _t._ 82.
_Bareith_, Margraves. See _Brandenbourg_.
BAREITH, _t._ 204.
Princess, 303.
_Baron_, the Title purchased in
_Germany_ by a Messenger, 256.
_Basset_, how a Lady made her Gallant's Fortune at it, 252.
_Bass-Viols_, a _German_ Duke's Fondness for 'em, 168, to 171.
_Bavaria_, Electors of, 259, 262, 263.
Its Division, 267.
Riches and Revenue, 167, 268.
Electoress, 363, 364.
Its Apostle, 366.
_Baudissin_, M. _Wolf, Henry_ de, 104, 127, 128.
_Baumgarten_, General, 84.
_Beaufort_, Marquis de, 135.
_Beausobre_, M. 15.
_Bedmar_, Marquis de, his Conspiracy, 409.
_Beichling_, M. Chancellor, 91.
_Beichling_, Countess Dowager, 141.
_Belgrade_, 248.
_Belvedere-Palace_, 4.
_Benedict_ XIII. Pope, 337, 430.
_Benedictines_, a sort of Republic form'd in that Order, 190.
_Benson, William_, Esq; Director of the fine Water-works at
_Herenhausen_, 67.
_Bentivoglio_, Cardinal, his Remark upon the _Alps_ and the
neighbouring People, 395.
_Bergenopzoom_, 332.
BERLIN, t. 3. Its Obligation to the _French_ Refugees, 3.
Its Academy, 147.
_Bernsdorff, John Hartwig Ernest_, Baron of, 155.
_Berschen_, t. 394.
_Beveren_, Baron de, 334, 335.
_Bevern, Brunswic_ Branch, 71.
_Charles_, Prince of, 26, 72.
_Ferdinand-Albert_, Prince of 70, 71, 72.
_Elizabeth-Christina_, Princess, 72.
_Bilinski_, Count and Countess, 118.
_Bishoprick_, which the first in _Germany_, 201.
_Black Liveries_, never given by a certain _German_ Family, 363.
_Blanc_, M. de, 306.
_Blanche, Mary_, Wife to the Emperor _Maximilian_, 389.
_Blanckenbourg_, County, 79.
BLANCKENBOURG, t. 76, 78.
Stupidity of the People, 78.
_Blanckenbourg_'s Duke and Duchess, 71, 76, 78.
The Duke's Treaty with the Elector of _Hanover_ for a Vote and Seat
in the Dyet, 79.
His Accession to the Title of the D. of _Wolfembuttle_, 80.
_Blanckenheim-Mandersheldt, Francis George_, Count de, 333.
_Bockenheim_, t. 340.
_Bohemia_, 210, 211, &c. 244.
Where and by whom its Kings and Queens are consecrated, 212.
Its Saints, _ib._.
The Wealth and Grandeur of its Nobility, and the Poverty and Slavery
of the Peasants, 218, 219, 221.
Its States, of whom compos'd, 222.
Their Aversion to the _Austrians_, 222.
_Bolagnos_, Count de, 397.
_Bologna, John_, 427.
BOLOGNA, t. 423, 424.
BOLSANO. t. 392.
_Bolsena_, t. 430.
_Bork_, the _Prussian_ Minister and General, 31, 42.
_Bose_, Countess of, 145.
_Bossagno_, t. 394.
_Bot_, the Architect, 10, 18.
Compar'd to _Bernini_, 94.
_Bothmar_, Count de, 65.
_Bouillon_, Princes, why they had the Title of _Domestic_ Highnesses,
210.
_Bourbon_ and _Austria_, Houses, our Author's Wish that they might
never be extinct, 233.
_Bourbon_, Duchess of, 310, 332.
_Bourg_, Marshal de, 306, 307.
_Brandenbourg_, Electors of, _Joachim_ II. 196.
_John George_, 204.
_Brandenbourg, Lewis_, Margrave of, 387.
_Brandenbourg-Anspach_, Margraves, capital, 193, &c., 195, 361.
Margravine, 194.
Her Present to our Author, 197.
Death in this Family pretended to be always foretold by the
Appearance of a Spirit, 196.
_Brandenbourg-Bareith_, Margraves, 200, &c. 205, &c. 303, 342.
BRANDENBOURG, t. 2.
_Brandenbourg-Schwedt_, Marquis of, 26.
Margravine Dowager, 125.
_Brandstein, Frederic-Augustus_ de, 145.
_Brebentau_, Mademoiselle de, 116, 157.
_Brebentau_, the Palatine of _Marienbourg_, 163.
_Breitenbauch, Henry-Augustus_ de, 146.
_Bremer_, M. de, 195.
_Brenner_, Mountain, 391, 392.
_Breslau_, the Road from it to _Berlin_, 1.
_Breton-Villiers_, Marquis, Reflection on his Memoirs, 337.
_Brezé_, Marshal de, 321.
BRHOUSEL, t. 318.
_Brimstone_, prescrib'd to the _Austrians_ by a _French_ Jester, 228.
BRIXEN, t. 392, 394.
_Brocks_, a _Hamburgher_ and Poet, 53.
_Brou_, M. de, 306.
_Bruhl, John_ and _Henry_ de, 104, 129, 130, 131, 132, 140.
_Adolphus_ de, 140.
Baron de, 174, 177.
_Brunswic Hanover, John-Frederic_, Duke of, 229.
_Brunswic_ Family, 61, 69, 71.
The Princes descended from it, 231.
BRUNSWIC, t. 69, 75.
_Brunswic-Blanckenbourg, Lewis Rodolf_, Duke of, 70, 231.
_Brunswic-Lunenbourg-Wolfembuttle_, Duke of, 231.
_Bucentaur_, a fine Venetian Galley, 399, 407.
_Bulau_, Baron de, 65, 66.
Baroness, 66.
_Burgau, Charles_, Margrave of, 390.
_Burgundy, Charles_ the Bold, Duke of, 389.
_Philip_ Duke, 389.
_Buthler, Constantine_, Baron of, 184.
C.
_Cabinet Ministers_, their Precedence at the Court of _Prussia_, 134.
_Caccioli Antonio_, Painter, 424.
_Cadets Academies_, 48.
_Cæsar_'s War with Pompey, painted, 370.
_Callenberg, Augustus-Henry Gottlob_, Count de, 145.
_Camke_, Madame de, 25.
_Camke_, Messieurs de, 44.
_Candi_, a famous Painter, 261.
_Carinthia, Henry_ Duke of, 387.
_Carlowitz, John-George_ de, 145.
Treaty, 238.
CARLSBAD, t. 208, &c.
Virtue of its Baths, _ib._
CARLSROUHE, t. 293.
_Caroline_, Princess of _Saxe-Eysenach_, 115.
_Cassel_, See _Hesse_.
_Castel_, Count de, 195.
_Castilloncello_, t. 429.
_Catsch_, M. a Minister of _Prussia_, 5, 17, 43.
_Catzenellenbogen_, upper County, 357.
_Chains_, that bound St. _Peter_, St. _Paul_, and St. _John_, three
Links of them, 198.
_Chalisac_, M. 37.
_Charlemain_'s Crown and Sword, 199.
_Charles_, Margrave of _Burgau_, 390.
_Charles_ II. K. of _Spain_, 387.
_Charles_ IV. Emperor, 387.
_Charles_ V. Emperor, 381, 387, 423.
_Charles_ VI. Emperor, 70, 230, 341.
His Diversions, 233.
His Friendship and Gratitude, 256.
His Love for the Empress, 257.
Remarks on his Coronation, 341.
_Charles-Christian_, Prince of _Prussia_, 113.
_Charles_, K. of _Sardinia_, 335.
_Charles_ XII. K. of _Sweden_, 55, 56, 123, 124.
_Charles_, Prince Palatine of _Sultzbach_, 332.
_Charles_, the Bold, Duke of _Burgundy_, 389.
_Charles-Albert_, Elector of _Bavaria_, 259, 262, 263.
His Electoress, 263.
_Charles-Lewis_, Elector Palatine, 274, 342, 381, 383.
_Philip_ ditto, 328, 330, 331.
His Revenues, 337.
_Charlottemburg_ House, 35.
_Child-bearing_, ascrib'd to the Miracles of the two _Bohemian_ Saints,
213, 214.
_Christian_, Margrave of _Brandenburg-Bareith_, 200.
_Christian-Lewis_, Margrave of _Brandenburg_, 28.
Ulric, Duke of _Wirtemberg-Oels_, and _Bernstad_, 83.
_William_, of _Saxe-Gotha_, Prince, 182.
_Christina-Louisa_, of _Oetingen, Duchess of Blanckenbourg_, 70.
_Christina_, Princess of _Saxe-Weissenfels_, 114, 115.
_Christopher_, St. where most worshipped, 394.
_Cicerone_, the Meaning of that Word in Italy, 395.
_Cinfuentes_, Count de, 244.
_Cleisheim_, 375.
_Clischoff_, Battle, 163.
_Clovis_, K. of _France_, 388.
_Coburg_, t. 200.
_Cohorn_, Engineer, 328.
COHTEN, t. 83.
_Colin, Alexander_, Statuary, 386.