or at least ought to be attended thither by the Pope's Nuncio and the
Ambassadors; but M. _de Gersi_ the _French_ Ambassador, from I know not
what Punctilio of Honour, avoids being present at the same Functions with
the Count _de Bolagnos_ the Emperor's Ambassador[162], whom he can't
endure to see go before him. When the Doge goes to St. _Mark_'s Church
'tis always with great Ceremony: He walks between the Pope's Nuncio and
the Emperor's Ambassador, and the other Ambassadors walk in the same Row
according to the Rank of their Masters. They are preceded by six Trumpets,
and six Banners are born before the Doge together with a Chair or Stool of
State, there being no Back to it, and a Cushion of Gold Brocade. The
Prince is dress'd in a long Robe of Gold Brocade also lin'd and fac'd with
Ermin. The Senators follow him in Robes of red Damask, walking two and
two. He is receiv'd at the Entrance of the Church by the Clergy of St.
_Mark_ who bring him Holy Water and Incense, which the Ambassadors receive
after him. His Serenity and the Ambassadors fall on their Knees in the
middle of the Nave, and then repeat the Prayers of _Domine salvum fac
Principem nostrum_. Afterwards the Doge goes and places himself at the End
of the Choir on the right Hand as we go in, and sits in the first upper
Row of the Canons with the Pope's Nuncio on his Right and the Emperor's
Ambassador on the Right of the Nuncio, and so on with the rest. The Doge
does not sit down 'till the Senators are all enter'd, who, as they pass by
his Serenity, make him a profound Obeisance, to which the Doge makes no
manner of return. When every body is seated, the Doge accompany'd by the
Ambassadors advances towards the Altar, the Nuncio strikes up High Mass
and says the Overture, to which the Doge answers. After this, the Doge and
the Ambassadors return to their Places, and the Prelate of St. _Mark_ who
is in waiting, continues the Office.
After the Mass is over, the Doge returns to his Palace attended by the
same Train that accompanied him to Church. When he has ascended the grand
Stair-case of his Palace he seats himself in an Arm-Chair which is plac'd
over-against the Stair-case. After he has sate a few Moments, he dismisses
the Ambassadors and the other Persons of his Retinue, and retires to his
Apartment.
Next to St. _Mark_'s Church is the Doge's Palace, a vast Building, of
which you will find a large Account in _Misson_'s Travels.
The present Doge is _Aloisio Mocenigo_[163], a Prince as much to be
respected for his Merit as for his Dignity. He is a Gentleman of great
Sagacity, talks well, is very polite, and has infinitely more Generosity
than is ascribed to those of his Country. He is a handsome Man, and has a
noble Aspect that is improv'd by his white Locks of Hair which render him
venerable. Before he was advanc'd to be a Doge, which was in 1722, he
serv'd the Republic with distinction in quality of Generalissimo. The vain
Honours which this new Dignity has procur'd him have not puff'd him up,
and he seems to think them rather a Burden than a Pleasure. Before he came
to be Doge he was the most sociable Nobleman at _Venice_, and he now sees
more Company than ever his Predecessors did. He masks himself at publick
Rejoicings, goes out every Night in a common Gondola without Guard or
Retinue, and diverts himself at his Brother's. He has sometimes too been
upon _Terra Firma_, not valuing it tho' he lost for a while all the
Honours annexed to his Dignity as Doge; for you know that this Character
does not go beyond the Lakes. He is oblig'd to be present at all the
public Ceremonies, tho' very much against his Inclination and Temper,
which is far more uniform than that of the other _Italians_.
The Ceremony in which he shines with the greatest Lustre, is that of
marrying the Sea, which without dispute is one of the finest Shews in all
the World. 'Tis perform'd on _Ascension-Day_, when the Doge, the
Ambassadors, and the Senate ride out into the _Adriatic_ on board a Vessel
call'd the _Bucentaur_, attended by the State-Gondolas of the Ambassadors
gilded, with a vast number of other Gondolas and Galleasses which surround
the _Bucentaur_, the most stately Vessel that was ever built, and more
magnificent than all that History (or even Romance) tells us of the
sumptuous Vessel of _Cleopatra_. When the Doge goes on board the
_Bucentaur_ he is saluted by the great Guns from the Galleys, the Men of
War, and the Merchant-Ships in the Harbour; and while he performs the
Ceremony of marrying the Sea by throwing in a Ring to denote the
Sovereignty of the Republic over the Gulph, there's nothing heard but
Kettle-Drums, Trumpets, and Concerts of Music, with the loud Acclamations
of the People.
His Serene Highness marries two other Wives whom he maintains with as
little Trouble as the Sea. They are the Abbesses of the Convents of the
_Virgin_ and St. _Daniel_. This Ceremony is perform'd upon St. _Philip_'s
Day, when the Doge in a Galeass accompany'd by the Ambassadors and the
Senate, repairs with a great Train to those Convents which are situate on
the Shore behind the Arsenal. The Prelate who officiates for the Day
receives him at the Entrance of the Church, brings him the Holy Water, and
conducts him to a Place prepared for him in the Choir where he assists at
High Mass. Then he repairs to the Grate, in which there's a large Opening
where the Lady Abbess appears with her Nuns. The Abbess addressing herself
to the Doge intreats him to continue the Favour of his Protection to
herself and the Nuns; to which the Doge returns answer, that she and all
the Convent may depend upon his Good-Will. Then he turns about and walks
on foot to the Convent of St. _Daniel_, where his Reception and
Transaction are the same as at the Convent of the _Virgin_. These two
Convents have very singular Privileges. The Abbesses have the
Crosier-Staff, and both they and their Nuns depend solely upon the Doge,
and not at all upon the Pope or the Court of _Rome_ either in Spirituals
or Temporals. They have good Revenues and live as much as can be at their
Ease. The Dress of these Nuns is rather gay than modest. Like the Nuns at
_Strasbourg_ they wear their Hair in Tresses: Their Petticoats are so
short that you may see their Ancles; and instead of Stays they wear
Jackets with short Skirts, which are very becoming to those that are of a
good Shape. Their Necks are quite bare, only when they go into the Choir
they cover them with Veils of fine white Wool, which trail on the ground.
These Nuns are the Daughters of the Nobles, and enjoy great Liberty, more
than I believe they have under their Father's Roof.
The Festival of St. _Mark_ is always celebrated with very great Solemnity.
On the Day preceding, the Doge accompany'd by the Ambassadors repairs with
a great Train to St. _Mark_'s Church, where he assists at the Vespers.
Next Day the Confraternities, who are nine in number, meet at the Ducal
Palace, accompany the Doge to Church in Procession, and are present at
High Mass. After this the Doge returns to his Palace, and the Brotherhoods
go round the Square. Each Society has magnificent Images, and two Canopies
richly embroider'd with Gold and Silver; whose Poles or Supporters are of
solid Silver. The Procession is clos'd by a Man dress'd in a Gown of red
Damask, carrying a Pole with a moving Wheel at the end of it; which serves
to support a gilt Lion surrounded with Laurel Branches, and little
Standards of divers Colours. The Lion turns round incessantly, and the Man
who carries it makes him leap, and play a hundred Gambols: He is
surrounded with a Multitude of People, who cry out, God bless St. _Mark_.
This Sight, how ridiculous soever, is nevertheless amusing, draws
abundance of the Nobility to the Square, and on that Day every body is
mask'd. After the Procession is over, the Maskers go to see the Doge's
Table, who entertains the Ambassadors and the Senate at Dinner, on a
Table in form of a Horse-shoe; which is extravagantly adorn'd with
Kickshaws, and Machines made of Starch, which are here call'd _Triumphs_.
Nothing of the kind can be better executed, or more magnificent. As there
is a great Apprehension of a Croud, all the Maskers are turn'd away at
Dinner-time. They keep on their Masks all day long; and after Dinner all
the Nobility, or to speak more properly, the whole City of _Venice_
appears mask'd upon the Square of St. _Mark_; and indeed, for one who
never saw it before, 'tis a remarkable fine Shew. What surpriz'd me, and
if I may say it, made me laugh, was to see all the Maskers fall on their
Knees at the Sound of the _Angelus_; you wou'd swear every body was in
Rapture, yet every thing that goes before and that follows the Stroke of
the Bell is not the most devout.
The Day after St. _Mark_'s we had another publick Shew, and by consequence
a fresh occasion for the _Venetians_ to masquerade it. That was the
Election which the Fishermen, who are here call'd the _Nicolotti_, made of
a Chief, who bears the Title of the Doge of the _Nicolotti_. Their Choice
fell this Bout upon a Gondolier belonging to the noble _Giustiniani_.
After the Election he was conducted to an Audience of the Doge of
_Venice_, dress'd in a Robe of red Sattin, and otherwise accoutred like a
Jackpudding. He was preceded by a great Mob of Pipers, Hautboys, and
Fishermen. Just before him was carry'd a red Flag, with the Effigies of
St. _Mark_. The Doge receiv'd him sitting on his Throne, and attended by
the Council. The Complement of the Doge of the Fishermen was made with
great Gravity, and answer'd by the Doge of the Republick in few Words;
which done, he return'd in the same Order that he came. This sham Doge
has authority over all the Fishermen, is their Judge, gives them Licence
to fish, and takes care that the City be well supplied with that sort of
Provision. 'Tis said that this Office, which is for Life, is worth above
1000 Crowns _per Annum_. He had formerly the Privilege of commanding in a
certain Quarter of the City, and assisted at all the Ceremonies where the
Doge was present: He even accompany'd that Prince on board the
_Bucentaur_, and had Precedency of all the Ambassadors; but they have lost
that Right since, upon what occasion I know not, they gave up the
Precedency to an Ambassador from the Emperor.
The Patriarch of _Venice_ is the second Person in the State. The present
Patriarch is of the Family of _Gradenigo_. The Authority of this Prelate
is so stinted, that he only nominates to two or three Benefices. The
Inhabitants of every Parish chuse their Parsons, which is always attended
with Intriguing; for their Livings being very lucrative, have great
Interest made for them. The Patriot has a Privilege of having a Gondola
painted Purple and Gold, with a Roof or Covering of Red Velvet; but this
Gondola must not exceed a certain Degree of Magnificence. You know that
the Gondolas of private Men must be black, and that none but Ambassadors
have the Privilege of having theirs gilded.
Tho' the Churches of _Venice_ have been sufficiently describ'd, I cannot
help saying something of those that I thought the most remarkable. Without
doubt the Front of the Church of the bare-footed _Carmelites_, situate
upon the Great Canal, is the most magnificent, not only of _Venice_, but
perhaps of _Europe_; as well with regard to the Proportions of
Architecture that have been carefully observ'd, as with regard to the
Fineness of the Marble, white as Alabaster, with which this beautiful
Front is wholly embellish'd. The Inside of this Church is extremely
magnificent. The Roof is richly gilded, and curiously painted. The Walls
are fac'd with Marble Pilasters; the Floor is of Stones inlaid with
various Colours, and the Altars are exceeding stately: But of all these
different things there seems to be too great a number, so that I could
wish many of the Ornaments had been spar'd; for a noble Simplicity wou'd
have look'd much better.
This sort of Simplicity is conspicuous in the Church of St. _George_, one
of the biggest in _Venice_, the Architecture of which is surprizing. A
Convent belongs to it, which for Magnificence and Regularity surpasses
many Sovereign Palaces. The great Stair-Case is a fine piece of
Architecture, and wou'd become a King's Palace much better than a Convent.
This House has two noble Cloysters planted with Orange-Trees, a couple of
spacious Courts, and two large Gardens well cultivated, which have
Terrasses from whence there is a Prospect of the Sea, and the neighbouring
Islands.
The Capuchins, whose Churches are very plain every where else, have a very
noble one here, which is called _Al Redemptore_. It was built by order of
the Republic to discharge a Vow they had made in the time of a Plague. The
honest Capuchin who shew'd me the Church, made me take special notice of a
Crucifix of Brass over the high Altar, whereon our Saviour is represented
expiring, with his Head leaning on his right Shoulder. My Guide assur'd me
that when the Crucifix was plac'd in the Church the Head of our Lord's
Image was erect, but that it fell afterwards into its present Posture.
There are other Churches worth seeing, were it only for the stately Tombs
of the most distinguish'd Families of the Republic. Such is the Tomb of
the noble Family of _Cornaro_, in the Church of the _Cajetans_, where are
the Marble Effigies of eight Cardinals, and four Doges descended from that
Family. In the Churches of St. _Paul_ and St. _John_ are Pictures very
much esteem'd by the _Connoisseurs_, and there's the sumptuous Tomb of the
_Valerios_, where the Father, the Mother, with the Son, are carv'd in
their natural Proportion in Marble, apparell'd in the Habit of the Doge
and Dogess.
Before I have done with the Churches, I think I ought to give you some
account of that of the _Jesuits_; the Front whereof is of noble
Architecture, well disposed, and the Ornaments not too much crouded; but
the Decoration of the Inside is really grand. Nothing can be richer than
the Choir, and the high Altar. The Choir consists of a spacious Dome
supported by four large Pillars of white Marble, lin'd with great
Flower-pieces of old green Marble. The Roof is painted and gilt. The high
Altar, which is all of Marble, is a Pavilion or Dome supported by ten
Columns wreath'd of the ancient _Greek_ Marble. The Tabernacle is of
Alabaster, incrustated with _Lapis-Lazuli_. To all this rich Work are
added two Angels in their natural Proportion, over which are the Effigies
of God the Father, and God the Son. The five Steps leading to the Altar
are of green Marble, incrustated with old yellow Marble so artfully that
this Work would easily be taken for a Piece of _Persian_ Tapestry. The
Pulpit and the Balustrade, which separates the Nave from the Choir, are of
Marble, and perfectly answerable to the Magnificence of the whole Church.
I now proceed to the Arsenal, so much celebrated in _Europe_, perhaps more
for what it has been than what it is at present. Three Nobles have the
Management or Custody of it, who relieve one another every Week. He that
is in waiting must visit the Posts in the Night-time; and the Centinels
are oblig'd each to ring a Bell every Hour, that the Officer upon Guard
may know they are at their Posts. No body can see the Arsenal without
Leave of the Nobleman in waiting, who never refuses it to Persons of Rank.
The first thing I was shew'd were four Rooms full of Arms necessary for
the Marines, where are also kept the Cuirasses of those Generals who have
most distinguish'd themselves in the Service of the Republic; but they are
all full of Dust. Then I was shewed the Magazine of Anchors, and the
Cellar to which the Workmen of the Arsenal go when they please to a
Fountain of Wine and Water mix'd. As much diluted as this Wine is, 'tis
said that there's no less spent here every Year than amounts to 74000
Crowns. This is an Endowment which was settled by one _Cornaro_ Queen of
_Cyprus_, for the Relief of the Workmen. Near this Cellar are the Forges,
of which there are twelve; but there are only two actually at work. The
Rope-Yard just by it, is 410 Paces in length, and serves at the same time
for a Warehouse of Hemp, of which I did not see any great Quantity. In
another Court there were a great many Cannon, both Iron and Brass, a Room
full of Bullets, a Magazine of Cordage, a Timber-Yard, and three great
Rooms full of Arms for the Foot Soldiers. There was another that serv'd as
an Arsenal for the Horse, but 'twas lately burnt down by the Carelessness
of a Centinel. The Dock for building and refitting of Ships forms a
separate Court, in the midst of which there's a great Bason that
communicates with the Sea, and is encompass'd with twenty six Sheds
cover'd over, which contain as many Ships, Galleys, and Galleasses. The
latter are Machines of a terrible Size, which have a sort of Battery at
both ends. My Guide assur'd me that a _Venetian_ Galleass was not afraid
of twenty five _Turkish_ Galleys: This may be; but I wou'd venture a
Wager on the side of the Infidels. In this same Dock are the Prowes of
twelve _Turkish_ Galleys taken at the famous Battle of _Lepanto_. But the
most noble thing in all this Dock, is the _Bucentaur_, which went out of
Port for the first time in the Year 1728. This superb Vessel was built by
_Antonio Corradini_; and is so well design'd, and the Ornaments of
Sculpture, of which there's a great number, so well plac'd, that every
thing is easily distinguish'd, and strikes with Amazement. 'Tis gilded
down to the Water-edge, and 'tis said that the Expence of it amounted to
70000 Sequins. The Deck is cover'd from Head to Stern with Crimson-Velvet,
bedaub'd with a broad Lace, and Gold Fringes. And the inside if possible
is more magnificent than the Outside. There's a great Room the length of
the Ship, where the Doge sits on a Throne, and the Ambassadors and
Senators on Seats like those of the Canons in the Choir. The Cieling
consists of Bas-reliefs in divers Compartments intirely gilt. The Floor is
of Walnut-tree, incrusted with Ebony-Wood and Mother of Pearl. The Rowers
who sit in the Hold of the Ship are all of one Livery, and their Oars
gilt, which makes a very fine Sight when all hands strike together.
You know that the _Bucentaur_ never goes out but once a-year, upon
Ascension-day, when the Captain who then commands must take an Oath before
he stirs out of the Harbour, that he will bring her back again into the
Arsenal. He carries nothing aboard of his own, for unless the Weather be
very fair indeed, the Ceremony is put off to another day. They build a new
_Bucentaur_ every hundred Years, and the old ones are laid up till they
rot.
I just now hear that the Post is going off, so that I am oblig'd to defer
what I have farther to say of _Venice_ till the next. I shall be
infinitely pleas'd if I can satisfy your Curiosity, and much more if I
can prove to you that no body has a more profound Veneration for you than
I, _Who am_, &c.
[Illustration]
LETTER XXVI.
_SIR_, _Venice, May 15, 1730._
The Common-wealth keeps twelve Galleys in pay, and twenty Men of War. The
_Capitana_ Galley, call'd the _Fusta_, never goes out of the Great Canal,
but is continually at Anchor before the Square of St. _Mark_. There's
commonly four Galleys and as many Men of War in the _Levant_. Others lie
at Anchor in the Canal of _Zueca_, which were lately drawn out of the
Arsenal, because for want of Water the Ships receive Damage. The Power of
the Republic consists chiefly in its Maritime Force. It maintains very few
Land Forces, and those they have are all kept at _Corfou_, which is the
Rampart of _Venice_, and the Defence of the Gulph; the Preservation of
which is owing to the Count _de Schulemburg_, General in chief of the
Republic; for in the last War when the _Turks_ attempted to take it, 'twas
he that oblig'd them to raise the Siege: And the Republic in
acknowledgment of this important Service caus'd his Statue on Horseback to
be erected in the Square of the Old Castle of _Corfou_; and settled a
Pension upon him of 5000 Crowns a-year for his Life, besides his ordinary
Salary.
'Tis certain that _Venice_ has suffer'd a Decay both of Power and
Commerce. The _Turks_ have taken the _Morea_ from her; she has little or
nothing left in the _Levant_; and as to her Places in the _Terra Firma_
they are poor, depopulated, and meanly fortified. One of the main
Securities of _Venice_ is her Lakes; but for some Years past they begin to
thicken so by the Mud and Dirt brought by the Rivers which fall into the
Gulph, as in time must prove to the very great Detriment of _Venice_,
because Ships which us'd formerly to go in or out with ease, can only go
out now by the help of a Canal which has been cut for the purpose. This
Inconvenience might have formerly been prevented for a trifle of Expence,
whereas now 'tis past all remedy.
The Powers of which the _Venetians_ ought to be most jealous, are the
_Turks_ and the Emperor, in whose Dominions they are in a manner inclos'd.
The Great Duke of _Tuscany_ and the Duke of _Parma_ were formerly Powers
which were of little or no Terror to the Republic; but if those Dominions
shou'd ever come under the Sovereignty of _Don Carlos_, the political
System of _Italy_ will be very much alter'd, and the _Venetians_ will in
all probability be oblig'd to keep fair with him. The Republic has for a
long time observ'd an exact Neutrality in the Quarrels among the Princes
of Christendom, perhaps because it knows not for which side to determine
itself; for tho' the Senate hates the _Spaniards_, and cannot forget the
famous Conspiracy of the Marquiss _de Bedmar_ the Catholic King's
Ambassador; they don't much like either the _Germans_ or _French_, whose
Power gives them Umbrage. And I believe, were it possible for the
_Venetians_ to hurt those three Powers at the same time, we shou'd quickly
see their Republic rouze itself from that Lethargy in which it's profound
State-Policy has doz'd it.
Since the _English_ and _Dutch_ became Masters of the Commerce of
_Europe_, the Trade of _Venice_ is as much decay'd as its Power; and
their Manufactures are sunk extremely. The _Venetians_ heretofore
furnished almost all _Europe_ with Cloth; their Looking-Glasses, and those
for Drinking, were also in great vogue, but those Manufactures are since
transplanted into other Countries, so that _Venice_ scarce furnishes any
more than _Italy_. 'Tis worth while however to go and see the Glass-House
where they work Night and Day, except in _August_ and _September_, when
the Heats are too violent. 'Tis certain the Drinking-Glasses made here are
much stronger than any other, but as they are blown they are not near so
substantial as the Glass that is run; however they require less Labour,
and have the Advantage when they are broke of being melted again; the
Matter of which they are composed being much more flexible than that of
the run Glass.
The Nobles of _Venice_ are Slaves to Policy, Diffidence, and Suspicion;
and Ambassadors are much more so, whom every one shuns as suspected
Persons, and whom a Foreigner can scarce talk to without renouncing his
Correspondence with the Nobles. An Ambassador is oblig'd to confine
himself to his own Family, or else to amuse himself in the Company of
Foreigners, of whom there is always a good number in this City; for no
Nobleman dare visit him without the express leave of the Senate, who now
indeed grant it much more freely than they did formerly.