kept; yet there are the Remains of noble Fountains and brazen Statues.
Among the latter is an Equestrian Statue of an Archduke of _Austria_, who
is represented as large as the Life, in Armour, with Breeches after the
Fashion of the Ancients, a Ruff, and little Boots. The Horse seems to rest
upon his Haunches, in an Attitude as if he was just ready to leap off the
Pedestal.
The Prince _Charles_ of _Newbourg_, the present Elector Palatine, finding
the old Castle not commodious enough, caused one to be built of Wood;
which was some years ago burnt down to the ground by an accidental Fire.
The Parish Church is of modern Building, with a great Dome raised in the
middle of the Cross. The whole Architecture of this Edifice is of the
_Corinthian_ Order. The Front is expos'd to an advantagious Point of View
on a Square, and is adorned with three Orders, one above another, which
makes the Fabric to rise in the whole to about 120 Foot height, exclusive
of a great flight of Steps to it, after the manner of _Italy_. All the
Parts of this Structure are charged with Ornaments of a clumsey Invention,
and very ill executed; so that the Confusion resulting from it is
infinitely shocking to those that have a nice Taste of Architecture. The
Inside is more tolerable than the Outside, and is even magnificent. The
whole Length from the Entrance to the Foot of the High-Altar, is 432 Feet.
The Foundation of it was laid while _Charles de Newbourg_ was Governor of
_Tirol_, who plac'd the first Stone of it. The whole Decoration of this
Church consists in Pilasters of red Marble, with a Vein of white, and the
Chapiters are of Plaister. The Roof is painted in Fresco by _Gosman-Daniel
Ossem_, a Native of _Munich_, who has succeeded so well as to give entire
satisfaction to such as have a Taste for, and Skill in things that are
curious. The High-Altar stands under the Arch at the end opposite to the
Nave of the Church. 'Tis perfectly magnificent, adorned with four great
Pillars of the Composite Order, of green Marble with white Veins, whose
Chapiters and Basons are of Marble of various Colours; and they support a
Canopy, which is form'd by four Curves fill'd with a Glory.
The Tabernacle and the Front of the Altar are of massy Silver, charged
with several Mouldings, and Foliages of Silver gilt; and there are few
Altars more splendidly decorated. There is a miraculous Image of the holy
Virgin, which the Archduke _Leopold_, the Sovereign of _Tirol_, brought
hither from _Dresden_. That Prince made a Visit to the Elector of
_Saxony_, who shewing him his Treasure, desir'd him to chuse any Piece
that he lik'd best; _Leopold_ singled out this Figure, because he was told
that in the early days of Lutheranism, it had been cast three times in the
Fire, and always taken out again without any damage. The Archduke on his
return to his Dominions, made a Present of this Image to the Parish, and
it has ever since been held in great veneration, and never fail'd of
working great Miracles. Three great Lamps of massy Silver are continually
burning before it; and the other Chapels have each a Lamp of solid Silver
whose Light is always shining. All this Plate was given to the Church by
the Elector Palatine.
The famous golden Roof is near the Parish Church, and serves to cover a
Balcony of the Chancery which fronts the Square. They say that _Frederic_
of _Austria_, the Sovereign of _Tirol_, caused this Roof to be made, to
let his Subjects see that he was not so bare of Money as they thought him,
and that he did not deserve the Nickname they had given him of the
_Pennyless Prince_. There are many however who affirm that this Roof is
not of Gold, while others say the contrary. As far as I can judge of it, I
believe 'tis of Copper only covered with very thin Plates of Gold, and by
consequence of no great Value. And supposing the whole Roof was of solid
Gold, I don't believe the Expence was very extraordinary, though to be
sure it was by much too great for so mean a purpose.
The House or College of the reverend Fathers the Jesuits, is a very great
Building in which no Cost has been spared. Its principal Front is 166
Paces in length. These Fathers are the Directors of the University. Near
to their College is the Church of the _Franciscans_, whose Convent was
founded by the pious Legacies of the Emperor _Maximilian_, who on his
Death-bed ordered his Successor to cause this House and Church to be built
at _Inspruc_. His Grandson _Ferdinand_ I. Son to _Philip_ the Fair,
perform'd his Will, and in honour of his Grandfather's Memory, raised him
a Marble Tomb which may be rank'd among the most stately _Mausoleums_ in
_Europe_. The Emperor _Maximilian_ is there represented on his Knees upon
a Cushion, with his Hands lifted up to Heaven, and as it were prostrate in
Prayer: He is adorned with the Crown, and the Imperial _Dalmatic_. This
Figure is of a gigantic Size, and admirably well done in Brass. 'Tis
plac'd on a great high Base of black Marble, forming an oblong Square, on
an Ascent of three Steps of red Marble. The whole Base is divided into
twenty-four Compartiments, or square Tables of white Marble, representing
the memorable Actions of _Maximilian_ in excellent Bas-Reliefs. The four
cardinal Virtues in a mournful Attitude, are represented in Brass, as
sitting on the Corners of the _Mausoleum_, and looking on _Maximilian_'s
Statue. The entire _Mausoleum_ stands by itself in the middle of the
Church; and the following Inscription is engraved in Letters of Gold all
round the Base of this Monument;
IMPERATORI CÆSARI MAXIMILIANO, PIO, FELICI, AUGUSTO, PRINCIPI
TUM PACIS TUM BELLI ARTIBUS OMNIUM ÆTATIS SUÆ REGUM LONGE
CLARISSIMO; SUB CUJUS FELICI IMPERIO INCLYTA GERMANIA,
DULCISSIMA IPSIUS PATRIA, TAM ARMIS QUAM LITERARUM STUDIIS PLUS
QUAM UNQUAM ANTEHAC FLORERE CAPUTQUE SUPER ALIAS NATIONES
EXTOLLERE C[OE]PIT: CUJUS INSIGNIA FACTA TABELLIS INFERIORIBUS,
QUAMVIS SUB COMPENDIO, EXPRESSA CONSPICIUNTUR. IMPERATOR CÆSAR
FERDINANDUS, PIUS, FELIX, AUGUSTUS, AVO PATERNO PERQUAM COLENDO,
AC BENE MERITO, PIETATIS ATQUE GRATITUDINIS ERGO POSUIT. NATUS
EST DIE XXVII MARTII ANNO DOMINI M.CCCC.LIX. WELSÆ IN AUSTRIA
DENATUS.
All this fine _Mausoleum_ was executed with very great Care and Skill, by
_Alexander Colin_, a Native of _Mechlin_; the Picture of which ingenious
Painter, and that of his Wife, are kept in the Church, as an
Acknowledgment due to that excellent Artist. This _Mausoleum_ was mightily
enriched by the Magnificence of _Frederic_ Archduke of _Austria_, surnamed
the _Pennyless Prince_, who caused to be placed in the Nave of the Church
twenty-eight Statues of Brass seven Foot in height, representing so many
Princes and Princesses that were related to the House of _Austria_. They
are set up in two Rows from the great Gate to the Altar, and therefore
separate the Nave from the two Wings on the Sides. 'Tis pity that those
Statues are in the hands of Monks who neglect them very much, and suffer
the Dust to eat into them. They would do much better in a Royal Palace:
Some of them are in great perfection. I fancy you will be glad to know the
Names of the Persons they represent.
* * * * *
I. The first, beginning on the right Side of the Altar, is the Figure of
_Joan_ of _Castile_, Mother to _Charles_ V. and _Ferdinand_ I. the Heads
of the two Branches of the House of _Austria_; the first of which became
extinct by the Death of _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, but the second
still flourishes among us with Glory in the Person of the August _Charles_
VI.
II. _Ferdinand_ the Catholic, Father to _Joan_.
III. _Cunigonda_ Archduchess, Daughter to the Emperor _Frederic_ IV. and
Wife to _Albert_ of _Bavaria_, who died a Nun.
IV. _Margaret_, Daughter to _Henry_ Duke of _Carinthia_ and Count of
_Tirol_, surnamed the _Pious_, because she founded and built several
Convents. This Princess was nicknamed _Margaret Wide-Mouth_: She was
marry'd first to _John_ Margrave of _Moravia_, Son to the Emperor
_Charles_ IV. whom she surviv'd, and marry'd to her second Husband
_Lewis_, Margrave of _Brandenburg_, Son to the Emperor _Lewis_ of
_Bavaria_, whom she also surviv'd, and finding herself a Widow a second
time, and without Issue to enjoy what she had, she made a Present of the
County of _Tirol_ whereof she was Sovereign, to her Cousins _Rodolph_,
_Albert_, and _Leopold_ of _Austria_, which Grant was confirm'd by the
Emperor _Charles_ IV. in 1364.
V. _Mary of Burgundy_, Wife to the Emperor _Maximilian_ I. the richest
Heiress of her Time.
VI. _Elizabeth_, the Daughter of the Emperor _Sigismond_, and Wife to the
Emperor _Albert_ II. who carry'd the Duchy of _Luxembourg_ to the House of
_Austria_. She was Mother to the unfortunate King _Ladislaus_.
VII. _Godfrey_ of _Bouillon_, Duke of _Lorrain_, King of _Jerusalem_,
plac'd here among the Princes of the House of _Austria_, as being
descended from the same Family as they.
VIII. _Albert_ I. Emperor.
IX. _Frederic_, Archduke of _Austria_, he who was nicknamed Prince
_Pennyless_.
X. _Leopold_ of _Austria_, surnamed the _Virtuous_, Son of _Albert_ the
_Wise_.
XI, and XII. Opinions are very much divided about the Persons who are
represented by these two Statues; but 'tis generally thought they are the
Emperors _Charles_ V. and _Ferdinand_ I.
XIII. The Emperor _Frederic_ IV. Father to _Maximilian_ I.
XIV. _Albert_ II. Emperor, King of _Hungary_ and _Bohemia_, and Father to
the unfortunate King _Ladislaus_.
XV. _Clovis_, the first Christian King of _France_, who is plac'd among
the Princes of the House of _Austria_, because their Genealogists derive
them from the ancient _Franks_ who subdued _France_.
XVI. _Philip_ I. call'd the Fair, King of _Spain_.
XVII. The Emperor _Rodolph_ I.
XVIII. The Archduke _Albert_, call'd the _Wise_.
XIX. _Theodoric_ King of the _Goths_. I am not a Genealogist good enough
to tell you in what Relation he stands to the House of _Austria_.
XX. _Ernest_, Archduke, Grandfather to _Maximilian_ I.
XXI. _Theodebert_ Count of _Provence_, from whom descended the Dukes of
_Burgundy_ and the Counts of _Hapsburg_.
XXII. _Arthur_, Prince of _Wales_, who marry'd _Catherine_ of _Arragon_.
XXIII. _Sigismond_, Archduke and Count of _Tirol_, who adopted the Emperor
_Maximilian_ I.
XXIV. _Blanche Mary_, the second Wife of _Maximilian_ I. which Princess
was the Daughter of _John Galeas_ Duke of _Milan_.
XXV. _Margaret_, Daughter of _Maximilian_ I. who was marry'd first to
_John_ a Prince of _Spain_, and secondly to _Philibert_ Duke of _Savoy_.
XXVI. _Cimburge_, Wife of _Ernest_ the Archduke, and Mother to the Emperor
_Frederic_ IV.
XXVII. _Charles_ the _Bold_, Duke of _Burgundy_, Father to _Mary_ of
_Burgundy_ who was Wife to _Maximilian_ I.
XXVIII. _Philip_, Duke of _Burgundy_, Father to _Charles_ the _Bold_.
* * * * *
Besides these twenty-eight Statues there are twenty three others plac'd
upon the Cornish of the Portico which separates the Nave from the Choir:
They are of Brass two Foot high, and represent those Kings and Princes
whom the Church honours as Saints.
I am farther to acquaint you of the Chapel of this Church, call'd the
Silver Chapel, because of the Image of the Virgin there of solid Silver as
big as the Life in the middle of the Altar, with a great many Images of
Saints all of the same Metal. The Ascent to this Chapel is by a winding
Stair-Case. Here is to be seen the stately Tomb of _Ferdinand_ Archduke of
_Austria_, Count of _Tirol_, Son to the Emperor _Ferdinand_ I. This
Mausoleum is under an Arch which is pretty high. _Ferdinand_, whose
Figure is of white Marble, seems to be asleep upon a Bed of black Marble
rais'd one Foot from the Ground. The whole Arch is lin'd with Marble of
various Colours, forming divers Compartments of very curious Workmanship,
where you see the Arms of the Provinces reduc'd to the Obedience of the
House of _Austria_: The different Colours are shewn by precious Stones
enchas'd in Marble, and so curiously done that the Work seems to be
enamel'd. Round the same Arch are plac'd five Bas-Reliefs, representing in
as many Pictures the memorable Actions of _Ferdinand_. Five other
Bas-Reliefs contain the Images of that Prince's Patrons, _viz._ JESUS
CHRIST, St. _Anthony_ of _Padua_, St. _George_, St. _Thomas_, and St.
_Leopold_.
Near the said Tomb stands that of _Philippina_ of _Welserin_, who was born
at _Augsburg_, and the Wife of the Archduke _Ferdinand_, by whom she had
two Sons, _Charles_ the Margrave of _Burgau_, and _Andrew_ Cardinal of
_Austria_. This _Mausoleum_ is of Free-stone and has nothing remarkable
more than the following Epitaph:
FERDINANDUS D. G. ARCHIDUX, DUX BURGUNDIÆ, COMES TIROL,
PHILIPPINÆ CONJUGI CHARISSIMÆ FIERI CURAVIT. OBIIT 24 Aprilis,
1580.
The Franciscan who shew'd me this Chapel assur'd me that it was one of the
First-rate Chapels in the World, on account of the Indulgences which had
been annex'd to it by the Beneficence of the Popes; that it was upon a par
with the Chapel of the _Holy Sepulchre_ at _Jerusalem_, with the Churches
of _St. John de Lateran_, _St. Mary major_, and _St. Gregory_ at _Rome_;
and that, in fine, a Mass said in this Chapel for the Repose of a Soul
departed, was enough to deliver it out of Purgatory.
These, Sir, are the Remarks that I made in this City, from whence I am
making ready to set out to-morrow. I expect to be well jolted all the way
to _Venice_, where to make my self amends I will take my Pleasure in a
_Gondola_. I wish with all my heart I had your Company there; we should
then have the Satisfaction of seeing a great many fine Sights together.
But for want of this Satisfaction I shall never cease to think of you; and
pray don't forget me, but believe me to be for ever, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XXV.
_SIR_, _Venice, April_ 27, 1730.
I wrote to you from _Inspruc_ the very Day before I set out from thence
for this Place, to which I arriv'd without any Misfortune. About three
quarters of a League from _Inspruc_ we came among very tiresome and
disagreeable Mountains, the highest of which is call'd the _Brenner_, a
Name that the Country People gave it when they clear'd it of the Wood, and
burnt it. This Mountain is much more rugged on the side of _Trent_ than
'tis towards _Inspruc_; 'tis for nine Months together cover'd with Snow,
and I found a great deal remaining on it still; yet 'tis inhabited to the
very Top. There is a Post-House, a Tavern, and a Chapel in which Mass is
only said when the Snows are melted: It produces Corn and Hay in
abundance. Near the Post-House there is a considerable Spring which at
first forms a large Basin, and then divides into two Torrents which
quickly change into Rivers, one whereof falls into the _Inn_ above
_Inspruc_, and the other, after becoming navigable two Leagues from
_Bolsano_, loses itself in the _Adige_ above _Trent_. The Passage of the
_Brenner_ is very painful, and sometimes impracticable when it snows or
rains; so that Travellers are often oblig'd to stay several Days till the
Return of fair Weather, which is the more inconvenient because the Inns on
both Sides are of the worst sort.
_Stertzingen_ a little Town four Post-Stages from _Inspruc_, has nothing
remarkable; however I was well accommodated there. Next Day I went and
din'd at BRIXEN an Episcopal City in an agreeable Valley, where I found
the Season very forward. The Country between _Brixen_ and _Bolsano_ is
extremely populous, and so manur'd that the steepest Mountains are
cultivated.
BOLSANO is a pretty Town well inhabited, and drives a considerable Trade,
having no less than four Fairs a Year. Its Situation is very agreeable, in
the middle of a fine large Valley full of Villages and Vineyards. The Air
here is much softer than in the rest of _Tirol_, and I found Trees here in
full Verdure while in the Country they were but just budded. The Vines are
very carefully watched by Men who keep Guard in Huts rais'd upon three
Poles plac'd cross-wise, and high enough to command the Vineyards.
_Misson_ in his Voyage to _Italy_ says, that these Huts or _Guerites_ were
for lodging the Guards that are posted to hinder the Bears from eating the
Grapes. I know not who could tell him that there were any Bears in this
Country, and if there are 'tis hardly probable they would venture into a
Valley so populous as that of _Bolsano_. The Wines of this Valley are the
best in all _Tirol_; but they must be drank, as must all the Wines of this
Country, the very Year of their Growth, or else they grow luscious, and
then turn crabbed.
The Valley of _Bolsano_ which extends to _Trent_ is throughout equally
agreeable; and is not incumber'd by those horrid Mountains that we were
pester'd with in the Road from _Inspruc_.
TRENT is celebrated for the Council formerly held there. I went to see the
Church of St. _Mary major_, where the Fathers of that Council held their
Assembly. It has nothing remarkable besides its Organs which are of too
enormous a Size for a Church, but are a very curious piece of Work; for
they not only exhibit various Sounds, but imitate Vocal Music, the Notes
of divers Birds, and the Noise of Kettle-Drums and Trumpets. The Bishop of
_Trent_ is a Prince of the Empire. The See is now vacant by the Death of
the Count _de Wolckenstein_ the last Bishop. The Chapter has fix'd the
Election for next _May_. A great many Travellers highly extol the Bishop's
Palace, but for my own part, I was not so fortunate as to observe any
thing in it that was worthy of Attention.
Throughout all _Tirol_ the Common People are very ill-favour'd: Most of
the Women are disguis'd by Wens in their Throat[160], and as if that was
not enough they disfigure themselves by their Dress. The Country Women
wear Stockings which have no Feet, and are gather'd into many little Folds
from the Ancle to the Calf of the Leg: Their Shoes are exactly like those
the Men wear. Their Petticoats are exceeding short, and ty'd up almost as
high as their Breasts which are very large. With all this they have a Pair
of Stays which reaches down to their Waist, and renders them compleatly
deform'd. Instead of other Head-dress they wear a green high-crown'd Hat,
the Brims of which are let down, and is as unbecoming a part of their
Dress as any of the rest. At _Brixen_ the Blood mends, the Women are
handsomer, the Men more genteel, and the People in general more civiliz'd;
tho' take 'em all together the _Tirolese_ are very honest People. They are
staunch zealous Catholics, tho' they say that some of the Peasants, are
_Lutherans_. The _Holy Virgin_ and St. _Christopher_ are the principal
Objects of the People's Devotion: The latter is painted on all their
Houses, and the Roads are full of little Chapels of the _Virgin_ who is
represented in all manner of ways. I have seen her painted in a Chapel
standing with a great Veil over her Head which she extended with her Arms
to cover the Pope, the Emperor, seven Kings, and as many Electors, who
seem to be prostrate at her Knees.
As I left _Trent_ I began to ascend a Mountain which does not become
smooth till we reach to _Berschen_ which is a Post-Stage and a half from
_Trent_. This Mountain is exceeding steep, troublesome, and tiresome, and
after 'tis pass'd, one is in a manner buried among Rocks and horrid
Mountains which seem as if they would fall on the Heads of the Travellers;
and I have been assur'd that this sometimes happens in rainy Weather, when
so many Pieces crumble off of the Rock that it requires 4 or 500 Carts to
clear the Roads. In short, all the Way till one comes within a League of
_Bossagno_ a City in the State of _Venice_ is full of Rocks and
Precipices; but from that Town to _Mestre_ which is four Post-Stages from
it, the Country is the finest in the World; and in short, every thing is
good and pleasant except their Wine and their publick Houses. The Wine has
naturally a musty Taste, and no Body, and the Colour is like that of the
thick Wine of _Bourdeaux_. This Country so abounds in Quails that the
Post-Master of _Bossagno_ assur'd me he had taken 720 in a Morning, that
he drove a great Trade with 'em, and sent some of 'em to the State of
_Venice_, and to _Lombardy_. Whether he said true, I know not, but he
shew'd me 1100 live Quails which he kept in Wicker-Cages in a great Barn
where he had hung all the Cages to Pack-Thread to keep them from Rats and
Cats.
At MESTRE one embarks for _Venice_ which is about seven Leagues from it; I
made the Voyage in a Gondola in less than an Hour and half. As I travell'd
post to _Mestre_, my Gondoliers, when I came to _Venice_, carry'd me to
the Post-Office, where I was oblig'd to tell my Name, and the Business for
which I came to _Venice_; but this is a Ceremony to which they who don't
travel post are not subject. I went and took up my Lodging at the _White
Lion_, highly rejoic'd that I could rest my self there after my Fatigue,
and that I had lost sight of the _Alps_, those horrid Mountains which no
body would chuse to live amongst but a _Swiss_ or a _Tirolese_, who, as
Cardinal _Bentivoglio_ justly observes in his Voyage to _Swisserland_, are
a People made for the _Alps_, and the _Alps_ for them.
As I have been twice before at _Venice_, I serve as a _Cicerone_[161] to
two _Bohemian_ Counts whom I was acquainted with at _Prague_, and whom I
happen'd to meet with at my Quarters. As 'tis customary to do to all
Foreigners, I began with shewing them the Square of St. _Mark_, the chief
Square of _Venice_, if not of the whole World. 'Tis adorn'd by the Palace
of the _Doge_, the Church of St. _Mark_, and the _Procuraties_, or Houses
of the Procurators, and has been pav'd within these few Years with great
Squares of Free-stone. We ascended the famous Tower of St. _Mark_ which is
a four-square Building, by a Stair without Steps. It was built by the Doge
_Domingo Morosini_, to serve as a Watch-Tower to Ships at Sea; and that it
might be seen a great way off he caus'd the Angel on the top of it to be
gilt; but Time the Destroyer of all Things has stripp'd off the Gold. From
this Tower one sees the whole City of _Venice_, the neighbouring Islands,
and the _Terra Firma_, which all together makes a noble Prospect.
We afterwards enter'd St. _Mark_'s Church, which is an Edifice of
_Grecian_ Architecture, pretty dark and not very high, but after all, full
of Curiosities worthy the Attention of a Traveller. As this Church has
been describ'd with more Exactness than I can pretend to, I shall treat
very succinctly of the chief Things which it contains. The grand Portico
is so low that one must even go down some Steps to enter into the Church.
There is a Platform over it on which are plac'd four brazen Horses brought
from _Constantinople_, to which they were first carry'd from _Rome_ by
_Constantine_ when that Prince transferr'd the Seat of the Empire from the
one City to the other. Nothing is so magnificent and beautiful as those
Horses. They were heretofore all over gilt, but People out of mere Avarice
scrap'd off great part of the precious Metal, and all the rest is almost
worn off by Time.
At the Entrance of the Church on the right-hand Side there is a square
Stone which seem'd to me to be of white Marble, and is said to be a piece
of the Rock which _Moses_ struck in the Wilderness, whereupon there issued
out Water. If this be really that Stone, what that Legislator did is so
much the more to be admir'd, and may be reckon'd doubly miraculous; first
in fetching Water to a Place where there was none before, and then the
bringing a quantity of it through four Holes no bigger than Pease
sufficient to quench the Thirst of so numerous a Multitude. The Pavement
of this Church is very grand, being of _Mosaic_ Work exceedingly
diversify'd with Stones of various Colours, Marble and Porphyry: But the
stateliest Thing in all the Church are the Ornaments of the Altar for the
great Holidays, of which that of St. _Mark_ the Patron of the Republic is
the most strictly kept. St. _Mark_'s Treasure is then all laid open, which
consists in the rich Spoils taken from the Emperors of _Constantinople_.
Every part shines with solid Gold, Pearls, and Diamonds; so that the
Temple of _Jerusalem_ excepted, I believe there's not a House devoted to
God that could ever boast of so much Riches. All this Treasure is kept in
St. _Mark_'s Tower, and none of it can be taken out but in presence of one
of the Procurators, who must also be at the Altar when the Treasure is
plac'd on it, and dare not stir from it till 'tis put up safe again.