Days of Ceremony which infinitely surpasses it. I will only mention the
principal Rooms of it. We first enter into a great Salon adorn'd with the
Pictures of no less than fourscore Archbishops of _Saltzbourg_. Next to it
there's another Salon ingeniously and magnificently decorated, which
discovers Grandeur in every part of it. 'Tis furnish'd with a Suit of
Hangings of Crimson-Damask with Gold Lace, forming a rich Architecture in
Pilasters of the Composite Order, the Frize of which is adorn'd with a
pair of Brackets, which is a vast Addition to the whole Decoration. The
rich Gilding shines every where with profusion. At one end of the Room
there stands in the Wall a sumptuous Beaufet of Silver gilt, and at the
other there's a rich Canopy under which the Archbishop sits when he dines
in State. There's a stately Lustre in the middle of the Room which
consists of magnificent pieces of Rock Crystal. At the end of this grand
Apartment there are two Galleries that deserve the attention of the
Curious in Painting, who will certainly pass their time here very
agreeably, and find a great many choice Pictures done by the best
Masters. The Chimney-piece of the first of these Galleries is a great
Ornament to it, being of the finest Marble adorn'd with Brass, gilt with
Water-Gold. Over it there's a Statue of Brass as big as the Life
representing _Antinous_. The second Gallery is as magnificent as the
first. The Floor, Cieling, Door-Cases, and all the Ornaments in general
are of fine Marble. The Walls are painted in Fresco, and exhibit
Geographical Charts of the principal Dominions in _Europe_ in divers
Pictures, which are executed with very great Art and Exactness both as to
the Painting and Disposition of the Things that are the Subjects of it.
A third Apartment which is over the Archbishop's is for lodging foreign
Princes, and is not inferiour to the others in Grandeur and Magnificence.
It consists of several Rooms all in a row. In one Room there are all the
Pictures of the Emperors from _Charlemain_ to _Charles_ VI. The Rooms that
follow it are hung with very rich Tapestry, particularly one Set
representing the War between _Pompey_ and _Cæsar_, which is so wonderfully
well drawn that the Marshal _de Daun_ Governour of _Milan_ offer'd 40000
Florins for it to the late Archbishop. I shall say nothing of the other
Apartments, having treated so much of the Archiepiscopal Palace; tho' if
it had belong'd to a Temporal Prince I should have said much less of it,
but I thought fit to give you an Idea of the Wealth of a Prelate.
Adjoining to the Palace there is a great Building which serves for lodging
the Archbishop's Domestics. The Stables are fit for a King, and if a
_Frenchman_ was to see them he would be forc'd to own that as to the
Inside they are more magnificent than the so much boasted Stables of
_Versailles_. They hold 150 Horses in two Rows, with a broad Walk in the
middle; and the Roof which is pretty high is supported by two Ranges of
Stone-Pillars. Next to these Stables is a Riding-House cover'd, the
Ceiling of which being painted in Fresco, represents a Tournament; and all
round it there is a Gallery. 'Tis pity that this magnificent Riding-House
is not broader. There's another Riding-House uncovered which has not its
Fellow in the World. 'Tis a very great square Place, three Sides of which
are lin'd by very high Rocks, in which three Rows of Seats are very
artfully cut out for the Spectators, when there is any Carousal, or Combat
of wild Beasts. The whole Work is really magnificent, and the old _Romans_
would not have been ashamed to own it.
_Trinity-College_ Church is extremely well adorned. The Floor is of
Marble, and the Roof painted with a great deal of Art, representing the
Assumption of the Virgin, and the Crown placing on her Head by God the
Father and by Jesus Christ. The High-Altar is of a very singular Form, but
very magnificent. Two Angels of Brass, exceeding human Stature, in a
Posture of Humility and Adoration, support a Heart of Brass which serves
for a Tabernacle. Over it is a Globe, between God the Father and the
Redeemer. God the Father seems to rest his right hand upon the Globe, and
presents the left to our Lord, who puts his left upon the Globe, and in
the right holds a Cross. They are supported by very large Rays which shine
with very rich Gilding. This stately Groupe is surmounted with a Glory, in
the midst of which the Holy Ghost appears in form of a Dove, extending its
Rays over God the Father, and God the Son. The whole is of Brass gilt with
Gold, of a very curious Fancy.
Near this magnificent Church is the Palace of _Mirabel_, where the late
Archbishop the Count _de Harrach_, used to spend the Summer. This Prince
who is truly magnificent in every thing, caus'd this House to be built at
a great Expence from the very Foundation; but the Architect whom he
employ'd has not answer'd his Intention, and it appears that he did not
understand the proper Distribution of the Apartments. Every Part of it
indeed taken distinctly, is beautiful, but there is not one in its proper
Place. The grand Stair-Case is very fine, as well for its Contrivance as
for its rich Ornaments, but 'tis placed in a Corner, and without a Guide
'tis no easy matter to find it. The Salon, which is the Master-piece of
the Archbishop's Apartments, is worth the Observation of the Curious, with
respect to the grand Manner in which 'tis painted: Marble, Brass, and
Gilding, seem to have been bestowed on it with profusion. As to the
Pilasters, the _Corinthian_ Order is entirely observed; and there are
Basso-Relievos imitating Brass which are well design'd, and make a very
good appearance. 'Tis pity this fine Salon wants proportion, it being much
too lofty for its Size; and 'tis still more to be lamented that it has not
a Prospect over the Gardens, the River of _Saltz_, and the adjacent
Country, which are the Objects that are discover'd from the Apartments
next to the Salon.
The Chapel of _Mirabel_ is also very magnificent; and though but of a
middling Size, is not inferior to the finest Churches. This Palace is
accompanied with Gardens finely adorned with Fountains and Statues; and
there are several Orange-Trees planted in the Ground, which are cover'd up
in the Winter in a wooden Box.
Thus, Sir, have I given you a very particular Account of the City of
_Saltzbourg_: What remains for me is to speak of the Archbishop's
Houshold, which will give you an Idea of his Wealth and Grandeur. This
Prince has
A Steward,
A Great Chamberlain,
A Grand Marshal,
A Master of the Horse,
A Great Huntsman,
A Captain of the Guards,
A Master-Cook,
A Pay-Master,
Twenty-four Chamberlains,
Sixteen Gentlemen-Servants called _Truchsses_,
Sixteen Pages,
Fifteen Ushers of the Cabinet,
Eleven Ushers of the Chamber,
Forty-two Valets de Chambre,
Twenty-eight Footmen,
Eighteen Cooks.
How many Coachmen and Grooms he has I know not, but there must be a great
number of 'em, the Archbishop having 750 Horses.
Besides the Officers that I have now mentioned, there are also the Great
Hereditary Officers of the Archbishoprick, who are four.
The eldest of the _Lodron_ Family is Hereditary Grand Marshal.
The Count _de Kuenbourg_ is Great-Cup-Bearer.
The Office of Master of the Pantry is vacant by the death of the Count _de
Thanhausen_, the last of his Family.
The Count _de Torring_ is Great Chamberlain.
All these Offices are executed by the eldest Sons of the Families
above-mentioned.
The Archbishop confers the Order of St. _Hubert_, which was instituted the
25th of _November_, 1702, by the Archbishop _John-Ernest_, who has thereto
annexed six Commanderies, or Prebends, of a considerable Revenue.
The Archbishops are obliged for most of their Wealth to the Princes of
_Bavaria_[159]. Mean time the Members of the Chapter of _Saltzbourg_ admit
of no Princes, that they may have a Plea for refusing the Princes of
_Bavaria_, of whose Power they are jealous; in which I think they shew
more regard to the Rules of Policy than those of Gratitude.
The City of _Saltzbourg_ is worth seeing, but does not afford Amusement.
Every one lives here for his own sake, and except some Gentlemen of the
Chapter, and the Master of the Horse, who is the Count _de Truchsses
Zeil_, there's nobody to visit. The latter is a Nobleman whose Manners and
Sentiments are intirely conformable to his Birth. I know nobody that is
more polite; and I have abundant reason to praise his Civility to me. He
is of a Family, one Branch of which is settled in _Prussia_, where it has
for a long time held distinguished Employments, and produced Subjects of
great Merit who have done the State good Service.
I forgot to mention two things to you that are worth seeing, _viz._ the
Capuchins Convent, from whence there's a Prospect of a vast Tract of
Country; and St. _Sebastian_'s Church-yard, in which is interr'd the
celebrated _Paracelsus_; his Tomb lies in a Place very much neglected,
behind a Door, where a _Latin_ Epitaph says, 'There rests
_Philip-Theophrastus Paracelsus_, the famous Physician, who with wonderful
Art cured the Leprosy, Gout, Dropsy, and other incurable Distempers; and
who after having given all his Estate to the Poor, died _September_ 24,
1541.'
_Paracelsus_ cured most of his Patients by Sympathy, which made the
Vulgar, who are always apt to run into extremes, believe that he was a
Magician. He wrote several Books, whereof one of the most curious is his
_Treatise of Secret Philosophy_, which really contains such Passages as
would make one believe that if _Paracelsus_ was not a Conjurer himself, he
was at least one of the Sect.
St. _Sebastian_'s Church-yard is a square Place, encompassed with a
Gallery supported by Arches: 'tis 119 Paces in length, and 96 in breadth.
The Neighbourhood of _Saltzbourg_ is not disagreeable; and though the
Valley in which the City lies is pretty much inclosed with Mountains, yet
it presents several Objects that are pleasing to the Sight.
The Archbishop has two Pleasure-Houses, _viz._ _Cleisheim_ and _Heilbron_,
which are both of them beautiful and magnificent. _Heilbron_ especially is
worth seeing on account of its fine Waters and Cascades.
I hope to write to you speedily from _Venice_, and perhaps you will hear
from me when I come to _Inspruc_; but this will depend on the Stay I shall
make there, and on the departure of the Post.
_POSTSCRIPT._
Since the year 1730, that this Letter was wrote, great
Revolutions have happened in the Archbishoprick of _Saltzbourg_,
with regard to Religion; for about 22,000 Persons have abandoned
this Country, together with their Estates and their Fortunes,
and declared themselves of the _Lutheran_ Communion; which is
very strange, and almost inconceivable! For in short, those
People never knew any Clergy but their own Priests, they lived
in a Country where there was no Controversy about Religion,
because all the Inhabitants were reckon'd staunch Catholics, by
consequence those People could not be instructed; and even the
greatest part of them could not read, but were bred up in such
gross Ignorance that they scarce knew the Principles of
Christianity. Therefore how could these poor People know that
they were in an Error?
I am not ignorant that at the beginning of the pretended
Reformation, there were _Saltzburghers_ that followed the
Doctrines of _Luther_, such as _Staupitz_, Abbot of _St.
Peter_'s at _Saltzbourg_; _Paul Speratus_, a Preacher in the
Cathedral of this City; and several others. But _Lutheranism_
was thought to be quite suppressed in this Province, when it
seem'd all on a sudden to take deeper Root than ever; tho', as I
said before, I can't conceive how it should happen. Is it
possible that the Archbishop, the Curates and _Priests_ should
take so little care of what ought to have been most dear to
them, I mean the Salvation of Souls, as that so many Thousands
of People should pass with them for good _Romans_, at the same
time that they abhorred _Rome_ and its Precepts? For in short, I
suppose, and believe too, that there have ever been Protestants
in this Country, since the pretended Reformation; it being not
in the power of Man to destroy a Religion when once it has had
Followers in a Country; but the Difficulty is, how those
Sectaries should subsist there, without the Knowledge of an
ecclesiastical Sovereign; and how it was possible for them, not
only to subsist, but even to multiply, and the Priests and
Archbishop not perceive it. Ought not the Curates to know the
Sentiments of their Parishioners by Confession? Ought they not
to acquaint the Archbishop their Head of it? and ought not this
Prelate and his Priests to endeavour to reclaim those that go
astray, by the Example of a lively Faith, and by charitable
Exhortations, and from a Compassion for their Error, diligently
to oppose the Propagation of it? But all this has been
neglected: The Priests, and their Archbishop, knew not there was
a Fire, 'till 'twas too late to put it out; and instead of the
Good-nature, Compassion, and Charity, which like Water were
necessary to extinguish it, they pour'd in the Oil of Hatred and
Violence, and abandoned themselves to their furious Zeal. The
haughty, rigid, and severe Archbishop, forgetting that he was
both a Father and an Archbishop, and giving way to the Violence
of his Temper, has for ever lost those Souls which he might have
hoped to reclaim, by Instructions truly pastoral, and treating
them as Children led astray; whereas this Prelate, by using the
contrary Method, has caused a great many Persons to declare
themselves Protestants, who would have died in the Bosom of the
Church, if the proper Remedies had been employed, to bring them
back to it.
But I am persuaded that among the Emigrants of _Saltzbourg_,
there is a vast number who made Religion only a Cloak to leave
their Country, in hopes of bettering their Fortunes elsewhere,
and who were seduced by the ensnaring Temptation of throwing off
the Yoak of Submission. Be this as it will, those unfortunate
Subjects, like the _Jews_, are spread into divers Countries, as
_Germany_, _Holland_, and _Prussia_, where the King, I must
confess, (as much a Catholic as I am) has received them with a
Charity and Generosity perfectly christian and royal; his
Majesty having grudg'd neither Care nor Expence to convince the
World that as _France_ is the Asylum of unfortunate Kings, so
the Dominions of _Prussia_ are the Refuge of oppressed
Subjects.
[Illustration]
LETTER XXIV.
_SIR_, _Inspruc, April 9, 1730._
I travelled hither all the way from _Saltzbourg_, with the same Horses,
which is what I will never do again; for travelling by Post is always
best; and though 'tis more expensive, yet on the other hand 'tis less
fatiguing.
Three Leagues from _Saltzbourg_ stands the little Town of HALLE, which
belongs to the Elector of _Bavaria_, and is a Place considerable for its
Salt-Pits. It lies in a small Valley crossed by three Rivers, form'd by
Torrents from the Mountains, which bring down a vast quantity of floating
Wood, that is stopp'd at _Halle_ by the Piles which either cross or shut
up the Rivers. They lay the Wood up in store for the Salt-Works, which
consume a great quantity of it.
After I had been all over the Salt-Works, I went and din'd at
_Schneitzenrieth_, a sorry Village, where, however, I far'd better than I
have done at many good Towns.
When I had dined I pursued my Journey, and having travelled four Leagues,
entred the Country of TIROL, the Passage to which is very much straitened,
so that there's scarce room for a Waggon, by two very high Rocks or
Mountains, and two Forts between them, one belonging to the Archbishoprick
of _Saltzbourg_, and the other to the County of _Tirol_. Each Sovereign
keeps a Garrison in his Fort, and Officers to receive the Duties.
I lay that Evening at WAHTRINGEN, the first Village in the Dominions of
_Tirol_, as one comes out of _Germany_. I here found a Parcel of Boys
running about with lighted Touchwood in their hands, to the Houses, Woods,
and Fields. Having ask'd an old Man the meaning of it, he told me that the
Wood so lighted was consecrated by the Parson of the Parish, and had the
virtue of securing all Places to which it was carried, against Lightning.
This Consecration of the Wood is always perform'd the _Saturday_ before
_Easter_, when a great Pile is erected before the Church, into which the
Parson throws Holy water, and then sets fire to It. When the whole is well
kindled, every one strives to snatch a Firebrand, with which they run to
their Houses and Lands, but with so little care that I wonder they don't
set every place they come to in a Flame.
From _Halle_ to _Wahtringen_ the Country is every bit uncultivated. The
Inhabitants live upon Milk, Pickled Cabbage, and Water-gruel. They have no
Corn but what comes from _Bavaria_. All their Substance and Trade is in
Cattle, and their Mountains afford excellent Pasture.
Upon _Easter-day_ I heard Mass at _St. John_'s, a great Village where
there's a very pretty Church. I was very much pleased with the Sermon that
was preached by the Parson, and with the Regularity with which the whole
Divine Service was performed.
After Mass I went and din'd at ELVAN, to which place I came through a
Valley, which in the Summer time must be very agreeable, but at the
present Season is all covered with Snow. I was not more edified at
_Wahtringen_, than I was scandalized at _Elvan_, to catch my Landlord, a
clever, merry Blade, engaged with one of his Maids in something else
instead of telling their Beads. My Presence was so far from spoiling
Sport that my Landlord invited me very civilly to do as he did, assuring
me that his House was well furnish'd with Nymphs. In a very little time I
was convinced that what he said was true, for being obliged by the Cold to
stay in the common Room while one was aired for me, I saw half a score
Lasses come in, who were all of them my Landlord's very humble Servants,
and not in the least disposed to imitate the eleven thousand Virgins.
After Dinner, pursuing my way through Snows and Rocks, I went and lay at
_Kundahl_. Next day I got beyond the Snow, and crossed a very pleasant
Valley which brought me to RATENBERG, a Town on the Banks of the _Inn_,
defended by a Castle built on a Rock, and stronger by its Situation than
by its Works. The Elector _Maximilian-Emanuel_ of _Bavaria_ coming before
this Castle on the 13th of _June_, 1703, obliged the Garrison, which was
composed of the Militia, to surrender at Discretion. From this Fort to
_Inspruc_ I always kept along the River _Inn_, which runs through a fine
Valley between high Mountains that are much steeper on the right side of
the River than the left; nevertheless there are Houses on them that are
inhabited by the Miners. I can't imagine how it was possible for the good
People to build in Places so inconvenient; for their Houses look as if
they were stuck on to the Rocks, and as if nothing but a Goat or a Swallow
could come at them. The whole Valley is very populous, and abounds with
pretty Villages, Castles, and fine Country-Houses.
At the end of it stands the Town of SCHWATZ, which is very well built. The
Parish Church is an ancient, fair, large Edifice; and wholly covered with
Copper, as most of the Churches in _Tirol_ are with Tin painted green,
which has a very pretty look. The Houses at _Schwatz_ are generally of
Brick, so that 'tis very rare to see one of Timber. I observ'd at the Inn
where I din'd, and throughout the whole Country of _Tirol_, that when
People came into any House, they said to the Master of it, _Hail, Jesus
Christ!_ to which he answered, _May Christ be praised, and the holy Virgin
his Mother_. Then the Master of the House stepp'd forward, and took the
Visitor by his hand. This method of saluting is practised among all the
People throughout _Tirol_; and the Salutation is fix'd up in Print at all
the Doors, with an Advertisement tack'd to it, importing, that Pope
_Clement_ XI. had granted an hundred Days of Indulgence, and plenary
Absolution, in favour of those who should pronounce the Salutation and the
Answer.
After having din'd at _Schwatz_, I continued to ride along the _Inn_; and
three Leagues beyond that I pass'd the River, over a Bridge near
_Fultishau_, a fine Convent of the Servite-Fryars, and went to HALLE, the
second City of _Tirol_. The reverend Fathers the _Jesuits_ have a fine
House here, and a noble Church, with a great Garden to it. The Mint is
also worth seeing, where they coin a great quantity of Species from the
Silver and Copper taken out of the Mines of _Tirol_. The Water is brought
to it by wooden Pipes. They drive a great Trade at _Halle_ in Copper, Tin,
and Salt, which is produced there in abundance, the Vent of it being
promoted by means of the River _Inn_, which becomes navigable at _Halle_.
From this Town to _Inspruc_ 'tis two Leagues, and a strait even Road which
deserves to be planted on each side with Trees. INSPRUC, the Capital City
of _Tirol_, stands in the middle of a Valley, on the Banks of the _Inn_,
over which there's a wooden Bridge that leads to the Suburbs. _Inspruc_
was heretofore the Residence of the Archdukes, the Sovereigns of _Tirol_;
but since the august House of _Austria_ has been reduced in _Germany_ to
the Imperial Branch singly, this City has been only subject to Governors,
who however were always great Noblemen. _Charles_ Duke of _Lorrain_, who
married the Queen Dowager of _Poland_, Sister to the Emperor _Leopold_,
and who made himself famous by the Victories which he gain'd over the
_Turks_, held this important Office. That Prince dying at _Inspruc_, was
succeeded by _Charles_ Prince Palatine of _Newbourg_, Brother to the
Empress _Eleonora_, _Leopold_'s third Wife, but he renounced the
Government of _Tirol_, on his Accession to the Electorate. He liv'd at
_Inspruc_, with great Pomp, and his Absence is still very much lamented
there. Since he went away, the Government of _Tirol_ has remain'd vacant.
They say 'tis designed for the Archduchess _Mary-Magdalen_, the Emperor's
youngest Sister. This I know is what the Burghers of _Inspruc_ wish for;
but I don't think the Nobility do; because the Presence of the Archduchess
would oblige the People of Quality to be at very great Expence; for they
would be under a necessity of going to Court, as well as of carrying it
more civilly to their Vassals.
The Count _de Konickel_ is the Chief of the Regency: He has the Title of
_Landshauptman_, which is much the same with Lieutenant-General of the
Province, wherein he has the absolute Command, and all the Sovereign
Courts depend on him. This Nobleman is a _Tirolese_, and lodges in a fine
House which has been built by order of the States of _Tirol_, for the
Residence of their _Landshauptman_. He conducts himself with Dignity, and
is civil to Foreigners.
'Twas at _Inspruc_ that the Emperor _Charles_ V. received one of the
greatest Shocks he had met with in all his Life. For he was surprized
there with his Brother _Ferdinand_, King of the _Romans_, by _Maurice_
Elector of _Saxony_, who, though his Creature, made War upon him
nevertheless, on account of Religion. The Emperor and his Brother were so
near being taken that they had but just time to make their Escape to
_Villaco_, a little Town upon the _Drave_ in _Carinthia_. This was a
terrible Reverse of Fortune for a Prince, who, but a few years before, had
a Pope and a King of _France_ too, his Prisoners.
_Maximilian-Emanuel_ Elector of _Bavaria_ was not more fortunate at
_Inspruc_ than _Charles_ V. for though he made himself Master of it in
_June_ 1703, he was obliged to abandon it in _July_ following, and to
retire to _Bavaria_, after having tried in vain to force Passes which were
in a manner inaccessible by Nature, and guarded not only by the Peasants
but by regular Troops. His Design was to have joined M. _de Vendosme_ in
the County of _Trent_, and by that means to have opened a Communication
with the _Milanese_. The Elector, whilst he was retreating, ran the hazard
several times of losing his Life; and his Troops were for the most part
knock'd o' th' head by Stones which the Peasants hurl'd at them in the
Defiles which they were obliged to pass.
The City of _Inspruc_ is absolutely defenceless, and were it not for its
Suburbs, would be one of the least Cities in all _Germany_; but those
Suburbs are very large, and the Residence of Persons of the greatest
Distinction. The Houses are very commodious, well built of Brick, and for
the most part with Piazzas, which is a great Conveniency to the
Foot-passengers. There was heretofore great Store of Salt here, but for
some years past the Pits are dry, which is a Loss to _Inspruc_ of no less
than 200,000 Florins a-year.
Though the City is small yet there are several very fine things to be seen
in it. Such is the ancient Palace of the Archdukes, a vast large
Structure, but without Architecture, or any manner of Regularity. There
are Pictures in it done by skilful Hands, particularly in that call'd the
Giant's-Hall, where the Story of _Dejanira_ is represented with very great
Art and Perfection.