some Years. The King my Nephew was marry'd, but he was of such a
melancholy Temper, his Humour was so different from the Queen's, and there
was so little Love betwixt them, that he died without Issue. With him I
have seen my Family utterly extinct, its Dominions transferr'd to the
Power of a Prince who is hardly related to us, and my Country abandon'd to
the most dismal Desolation. For my Niece having marry'd _Meroveus_,
Brother to _Ariovisto_ King of the _Gauls_, the latter who is an ambitious
Prince and goes to War upon every the least Pretence, asserted the Rights
of his Sister-in-law without Delay, and pleading that she ought to succeed
to the Inheritance of the King her Brother, notwithstanding the _Salic_
Law establish'd in _Germany_, he sent a formidable Army into the Dominions
of my deceased Nephew, where the _Gauls_ at first meeting with no
Resistance, committed enormous Cruelties, and extended their Fury even to
the Violation of the Tomb of the Kings my Ancestors, whose dead Bodies
were stripp'd and exposed to the Caprice of the unruly Soldiers:
Calamities, which perhaps would never have happen'd, had it not been for
my Brother's fatal Passion for _Gertrude_; because in all Appearance if he
had liv'd in a good Understanding with his lawful Spouse; he would have
had more Children by her, and I would not have had the Vexation to see the
Throne of my Fathers posses'd by a foreign Family.
_KEY to the History of GERTRUDE_.
_Albion_, England.
_Alfrede I._ James I. _King of_ England.
_Ariovisto_, Lewis XIV.
_Belgium_, Holland.
_Boyens, (Prince of) the Elector of_ Bavaria.
_Catti, (Princess of) the Princess of_ Hesse-Cassel.
_Cæsar, the_ Emperor.
_Clodius, the Emperor_ Leopold.
_Germania_, Germany.
_Gertrude, the Baroness of_ Degenfeldt.
_Malcolm_, Charles-Lewis _Elector_ Palatine.
_Meroveus_, Philip _of_ France, _Duke of_ Orleans, _Brother to_
Lewis XIV.
_Montpayen_, Heidelberg.
_Pluibourg_, Ratisbon.
_Romans, the_ Imperialists.
_Rome_, Vienna.
_Suevi, (King of) the Margrave of_ Baden-Dourlach.
_End of the History of_ Gertrude.
* * * * *
I have not scrupled to give you this History, because all the Persons who
are Subjects of it are dead. I wrote it very much in haste, for the
Diversion of the Princess _d'A----_, so that you must not be surpriz'd if
you don't meet with all that Exactness which there ought to be in this
little Narrative; tho' I must tell you again that every Tittle of it is
true, so that you may read it as a History, and not as a Romance.
I have fix'd my Resolution, and now am setting out for _Rome_; therefore
please to direct to me at _Venice_. I go to-morrow to a great
Hunting-Match that is to be at _Darmstadt_, where I shall stay two Days:
From thence I shall go and spend two more with the Count _de Hanau_; and
then will I begin my Pilgrimage to the Holy Places. I am most entirely,
&c.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
LETTER XXII.
_SIR_, _Munich, April_ 2, 1730.
Since you received my last I have done and seen a great many Things. On
the 23d of _March_ I set out from _Frankfort_ for DARMSTADT, the Capital
of the upper County of _Catzenellenbogen_, and the Residence of
_Ernest-Lewis_ Landgrave of _Hesse-Darmstadt_[154].
This Town is extremely small, and only enclosed with Pallisadoes. If the
Prince's Palace had been finish'd according to its Model, it would have
been one of the greatest and most magnificent in _Europe_, and there might
have been Lodgings for the Emperor, and all the nine Electors of the
Empire. It would have been bigger than the Town, and have cost immense
Sums: That Part which is finish'd makes a very grand Appearance. But all
those magnificent Works which the Landgrave Regent at first carried on
with very great Vigour are entirely discontinu'd, and there's no
Appearance that they will ever be taken in hand again. The old Palace is
much more commodious than it seems to be; its Apartments being convenient,
and richly furnish'd. The Landgrave does not live in the Palace, but leads
a very retir'd Life in a little House upon the Square, where he is never
seen but upon Sundays and Holidays. He amuses himself in turning of Ivory,
making Chymical Experiments, and in Drawing. He loves Hunting above all
things whatsoever. He delights in Agriculture, and in Music, and it may
strictly be said that he is never unemploy'd. He has very great Knowledge
natural and acquir'd. He has seen a great many Countries, and tho' sixty
Years of Age he still looks well, and his grey Hairs, not to call them
white, give him a venerable Air. He sits a Horse very well, walks well,
and seems to enjoy perfect Health. His Wife was _Dorothy_ of
_Brandenbourg-Onoltzbach_, who died in 1705. They say that he lately
married _N---- de Spiegel_ the Widow of Count _Seibelsdorf_ a
Lieutenant-General in the Service of _Bavaria_. Be that as it will, the
Marriage is not public, and the Lady still goes by the Name of her former
Husband by whom she has Children. 'Tis true that the Landgrave pays her
very great Distinction, and indeed she is very amiable.
This Prince commonly dines at a little Table spread only for four People;
but on Sundays and Holidays he goes to the Palace, and dines with his Son
at a Table cover'd for sixteen Guests, and sups with the Ladies who are
never seen at Court but upon those Days. 'Tis a very hard matter to come
at the Speech of the Landgrave, and much more to that of his only Son the
hereditary Prince. The Hunting-Officers are the only Persons that have the
Privilege of Access to them; for which reason this is not one of the most
entertaining Courts; and a Man is under a necessity of throwing himself
into the Town, where indeed there are a great many People of Merit who are
civil to Foreigners.
The hereditary Prince _Lewis_, the only Son of the Landgrave, who was born
the 5th of _April_ 1691, is a handsome Man, has a noble Air, dances well,
mounts a Horse well, has Vivacity, Spirit, and Politeness, but is often
thoughtful, melancholy, and goes for Retirement to the Woods, where he is
passionately fond of Hunting; but is apt to create himself Uneasiness, and
does not know how to dissemble it. Tho' he has all the Qualities necessary
to shine in Company, yet he sees but very little. He married
_Charlotta-Christina of Hanau_, who dying in 1726, left him three Sons and
two Daughters, the eldest of which was then seven Years of Age. By virtue
of this Marriage the Prince is Heir to the Count of _Hanau's_ Estate in
_Alsace_, and to all his Freeholds in general, which will be a very rich
Succession.
Nevertheless the Court of _Darmstadt_ is very numerous. The Landgrave has
a great many Counsellors of State, Gentlemen of the Bed-Chamber and Court,
and a greater Number still of Officers of the Venery, and Huntsmen. There
is not a Province in _Germany_ more proper for Hunting, nor in _Europe_
where there are more Deer. 'Tis a flat even Country, and a gravelly Soil
interspersed with Woods thro' which there are cut noble Roads. I have seen
the Deer come up close to the Pallisadoes of the Town, and at their
Rutting-time I have heard them cry as I lay in my Bed. This great plenty
of Deer is extremely troublesome to the Peasants who are abroad day and
night to watch their Fields. The Landgrave and the hereditary Prince are
so jealous of their Game that they reckon it as bad a Crime as Murder for
any one to kill a Deer; and tho' 'tis an establish'd Custom among almost
all Sovereigns to punish with Severity all those that kill a Creature
which God however certainly created for the Use of all Mankind, yet there
is no Prince who observes this Law more strictly than the Landgrave.
I cannot give you a more certain Account of the Revenues of this Prince
than of those of all the other Sovereigns. 'Tis said that he has 5 or
600000 Florins _per Ann._ I am not very well inform'd of the number of his
Troops, for I have only seen his Regiment of Guards which is in very
compleat Order. His Horse-Guards are also very fine Troops, and commanded
by the General _Miltitz_, who is at the same time Grand Marshal of the
Court, the Honours of which he performs in a very handsome manner.
Tho' the Soil at _Darmstadt_ is very gravelly, it produces excellent
Pulse. I have seen Asparagus at the Landgrave's Table, three of which
weigh'd a Pound, tho' indeed they were not altogether so nice. I remember
that in a former Journey which I made hither in the Month of _December_,
there were brought to the Landgrave in several Pots of Porcellain, a Dwarf
Cherry-Tree laden with Cherries; Strawberry-Plants, an Almond-Tree, and in
short, the Fruits of all the Seasons.
The intended Hunting-Match, for what reason I know not, was put off; and
as I came hither only to see it, I staid but one Day and went to HANAU.
The Count and the Princess of _Hanau_ were but lately return'd from
_Alsace_. The Town of _Hanau_ is situate on a large Plain to the right of
the _Main_. 'Tis divided into two Wards, the old and the new Town: The
latter is much bigger than the former: It was built by the _Walloon_
Protestants, who, during the Duke of _Alva's_ Persecution under _Philip_
II. King of _Spain_, quitted the _Netherlands_ and came to settle at
_Hanau_, which they fortify'd, and built in such a manner that all the
Streets run parallel. The Count keeps several Companies in pay, from which
he makes Detachments for the Quota he is oblig'd to furnish, as a Member
of the Circle of the _Upper Rhine_.
The _Walloons_ who are settled at _Hanau_ have established several
Manufactures there, especially Woollen Stuffs. The _Calvinists_, the
_Lutherans_, and the _Jews_ are tolerated here, and as for us Catholics,
we may go to Mass where we please.
The Count's Palace is in the old Town: 'Tis an ancient Building, and makes
no great Appearance, but the Apartments are commodious, and very richly
furnish'd. The Count has a very pretty Pleasure-House a quarter of a
League from _Hanau_, call'd PHILIPSRUHE, _i. e._ (_Philip's Repose_) and
built by the late Count _de Hanau_, Brother to the Count Regent[155].
'Twas at this Seat that I found the Count of _Hanau_. There was a very
numerous Attendance, and I heartily wish'd I could have staid there a few
days. Few Princes in the Empire live more elegantly than the Count _de
Hanau_. The Lady who directs the whole Houshold, and keeps all things in
wonderful Order is the Princess[156] who is of the Family of
_Brandenbourg-Anspach_, and Sister to the Queen of _England_. At this
Court you have all the Liberty than can be desired. When you first come a
Chamber is provided for your Lodging, and a Footman order'd to wait on
you. Every Morning an Officer comes to know what you will please to have
for Breakfast; and there's every Thing to be had that you call for. If
afterwards you have a mind to go out a Hunting, you send to the Great
Huntsman for a Guide and to the Count for Horses out of his Stables. If
you come back too late for Dinner at Court, you are serv'd very elegantly
in your own Apartment. In the Evening when you are retir'd from Company, a
Butler takes care to provide you with Wine and Beer. The Servants of
Foreigners diet with those of the Count. His own Table which is commonly
for eighteen Guests is served as well as most, and a second Table is
serv'd with the same Magnificence. The Count has a very great Family, and
lives every way like a Prince; and indeed 'tis his own Fault that he is
not one, for he has had the Imperial Diploma for it a long while, but he
does not care to make use of it; saying, he had rather be the first Count
than the lowest Prince. He is the last Male of his Family. After his Death
the County of _Hanau_ relapses to the Landgrave of _Hesse-Cassel_,
according to the Treaty of Confraternity made between the several Families
of _Saxony_, _Hesse_, and _Hanau_, which imports that the said Families
shall succeed one another. The King of _Poland_ as Elector of _Saxony_
ought to have had his Share in the Succession to the County of _Hanau_,
but his Majesty by a Treaty yielded his Rights to the Landgrave of
_Cassel_. As to the Lands in _Alsace_, and the Freeholds, they revert, as
I told you before, to the Children of the hereditary Prince of
_Darmstadt_.
The Count of _Hanau_ seems to be much older than he is in reality. He is a
very civil Nobleman, and Hunting is a Diversion of which he is extremely
fond, so that to kill a Deer upon his Lands is an unpardonable Crime; and
the lesser Game, such as Rabbits, Hares, and Partridges, are equally his
Care. All these Creatures spoil the Fields; but they serve for the Count's
Amusement, while the poor Peasant is oblig'd to pay his Tax, and dares not
speak a Word.
From _Hanau_ to MUNICH I never made a stop; but after having travell'd
thro' _Wurtzbourg_, _Nurembourg_, and _Augsbourg_ arrived here last night,
and propose to set out again to-morrow, and after two or three days stay
at _Saltzbourg_ shall proceed by the way of _Tirol_ to _Venice_, where I
beg you would not fail to let me hear from you.
I am just come from attending the Obsequies of _Theresa-Cunegunda
Sobieski_ Electoress of _Bavaria_, Mother to the Elector. This Princess
died lately at _Venice_, to which City she retir'd eighteen Months ago,
and her Corpse is forthwith expected to be interr'd in the Tomb of the
Electoral Family. She has left, as 'tis said, near six millions of
Florins, which, since she has made no Will, are to be equally shar'd
between the four Princes her Sons. She has moreover left a Daughter who is
a Nun in a Convent of this City. In 1719, when she took the Habit, I was
present. She chose this retir'd Life against the Will of her Father the
Elector, who did all he could to dissuade her from it; and she liv'd in
great Reputation for her Piety. But to return to the Obsequies of the
Electoress: The Elector and Electoress assisted at them, together with the
Elector of _Cologne_, the Duke _Ferdinand_, the Bishop of _Freisingen_,
the Duchess _Ferdinand_, and the two Princes her Sons. These Princes had
Cowls upon their Heads, and great Cloaks, which is not one of the most
becoming Dresses. The Family of _Bavaria_ observes a very singular Custom,
which is, never to give a black Livery, nor to line their Coaches. I think
this reasonable enough, for it does not look very well in a pompous
Funeral.
_I am_, &c.
[Illustration]
LETTER XXIII.
_SIR_, _Saltzbourg, April 2, 1730._
At my departure from _Munich_ I went and din'd at _Eversberg_, a Village
belonging to the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits, who have a House there
which is a large one, and that's all 'tis good for. I went and lay at
WASSERBOURG a Town of _Bavaria_ built upon a Rock, so encompass'd with the
River _Inn_ that 'tis a perfect Peninsula. Mountains and Rocks hang over
this Town as if they wou'd crush it, and indeed the Place is not worth
much Description. It was settled as a Dowry on the Electoress
_Theresa-Cunigunda Sobieski_ who died last Month, but this Princess would
never live in it, nor indeed do I know any other Prince that would.
After having pass'd the _Inn_[157] over a very slender wooden Bridge I
climb'd a high Mountain, got down another, ascended a third, and so I
travell'd all the way up Hill and down Hill till I came within two Leagues
of _Saltzbourg_, where the Country becomes more passible.
The City of SALTZBOURG as well as the whole Archbishoprick takes its Name
from the River _Saltz_ which passes thro' the City and Country. It rises
in _Tirol_ and loses itself in the _Inn_. The Mountains that are about
the Town make it not near so broad as 'tis long, tho' take it all together
'tis not a large Town. 'Tis very well fortify'd, and has a Castle which
standing on an Eminence forms as it were a Citadel. 'Tis furnish'd with a
good Arsenal, and all manner of Ammunition, and I have been assur'd that
of Gunpowder alone there are no less than 20000 Quintals. Some Years ago
when I was here, Lightning fell so near this Magazine that it wanted but
half a Foot of penetrating to the Powder, which if it had touch'd I fancy
I shou'd never have wrote to you more. There is always a Guard of fifty
Men at the Castle, and the Garison of the Town consists of 600 Men who are
lodg'd in the Caserns.
The City of _Saltzbourg_ contains finer Edifices than many great Towns. It
has a magnificent Cathedral which was consecrated the 24th of _September_
1628, by an Archbishop who was of the Family of the Counts _de Lodron_.
'Tis a vast Structure of Free-stone, and has a stately Front which may be
reckon'd the compleatest in _Germany_. The skilful Architect by whom it
was directed has very much copy'd the Front of St. _Agnes's_ Church in the
Square of _Navona_ at _Rome_. It has four Marble Statues bigger than the
Life, which represent St. _Peter_, St. _Paul_, St. _Rupert_, and St.
_Virgilius_, of whom the two latter were the first Archbishops of this
See. The whole Church is adorn'd in the inside with Pilastres of the
_Corinthian_ Order. 'Tis built in the Form of a Cross with a very high
Dome which separates the Nave from the Choir. The high Altar which is at
the bottom of the Choir is of Marble, as are the two Chapels that form the
Cross: The Pavement of the Church is of great Squares of Marble of various
Colours. 'Tis pity there was not more Inlet for Light, the Dome being the
only lightsome Part of it. But as the Church is magnificent the Ornaments
of the high Altar are more so. Upon the Grand Festivals it bears a Sun of
Gold adorn'd with precious Stones to the Value of 100000 Crowns, a great
Cross of massy Gold, and four golden Candlesticks. The Front of the Altar,
and the Tabernacle are of massy Silver of excellent Workmanship.
St. _Rupert_ surnam'd the Apostle of _Bavaria_ was the first Bishop of
_Saltzbourg_ in 582. _Leo_ III. whom the Church honour'd as a Saint,
erected this Bishoprick into an Archbishoprick in favour of St. _Arnould_,
in the Year 798. He had for Suffragans the Bishops of _Freisingen_,
_Ratisbon_, _Passau_, _Briken_, _Gurck_, _Chiemsee_, _Seggau_, and
_Lavant_.
The Archbishop has a Right of Nomination to the four last Bishopricks;
only the Nomination to the Bishoprick of _Gurck_ is alternative between
this Prelate and the Emperor, as Archduke of _Austria_. The four Bishops
bear the Title of Princes of the Empire, and enjoy all the Prerogatives
annexed to that high Dignity. Notwithstanding this, the Archbishop never
gives them the Preference, and when he talks to them, only compliments
them with the Title of _Euer Freuntschaft_, i. e. _Your Friendship_.
Service is perform'd in this Metropolis according to the Usage observ'd in
St. _Peter's_ Church at _Rome_. The Chapter is compos'd of the Archbishop,
a Provost, a Dean, and twenty four Canons, all Men of Quality, who are
only oblig'd to four Months Residence, and the rest of the Time they may
go where they please. Both the Provost and Dean have the Crosier and
Mitre[158]. The Archbishop, as well as the Elector of _Cologn_, has the
Privilege of dressing in the Habit of a Cardinal. This Prelate has the
Directorship of the College of Princes at the Dyet of the Empire
alternatively with the Archduke of _Austria_. He is moreover _Legatus
natus & perpetuus_ of the Holy See, and Primate of _Germany_. His
Titles are these, '_Leopold_, by the Grace of God, Archbishop of
_Saltzbourg_, and Prince of the Empire, perpetual Legate of the Holy
Apostolic See of _Rome_, Primate of _Germany_, descended of the
illustrious Family of the Barons of _Firmian_.'
The Archbishop at his coming to the See must pay 100000 Crowns to _Rome_
for the Pall, but the Country generally raises it for him, besides making
a free Gift of the like Sum to its new Prince. The Revenues of this
Prelate are about 1500000 Florins a Year. The very Salt which is carried
into _Bavaria_ and _Swabia_ brings him in 30000 Crowns. He is absolute
Master of all his Revenues, and accountable to no body for what he lays
out. The present Archbishop is of _Tirol_, of a distinguish'd Family, but
not favour'd much by Fortune. He was born the 26th of _May_ 1679, and
succeeded _Francis-Anthony_ the Count _de Harrach_. His Advancement was
owing to the Division of the Chapter, who all wanted to be either Bishops
themselves, or else to advance some one Friend or Cousin. After a great
many Debates and Messages sent forwards and backwards, their Choice fell
upon the Baron _de Firmian_ who was at that time very infirm, which was
the only Thing that procur'd him the Mitre; for the Parties that divided
the Chapter united in his favour, because they thought him a Man not very
long-liv'd; but they believ'd however he might live long enough to give
each Party time to form its Cabals for advancing that Person to the
Bishoprick who they thought would best serve their Purpose. But all those
Gentlemen were mightily mistaken as to the Archbishop's Life. For this
Prelate, like another Pope _Sixtus_ V. lost all his Infirmities when he
found the Mitre, and is very like to out-live many of his Electors.
This Prince is tall, has an austere haughty Air; seldom makes any
Compliments, and talks much less, except when he is hunting, which is all
the Pleasure of his Life. He is almost always alone, and generally eats by
himself. In the Summer-time he keeps altogether in the Country where he is
of very difficult Access, and keeps no Retinue, nor Company. He is accus'd
of being too thrifty, and I don't know but there may be something in it;
but perhaps he would not appear to be quite so saving if he had succeeded
any body else in the Bishoprick but the Count _de Harrach_, the most
generous, noble, and most magnificent Prelate of his Time. The Archbishop
is naturally a Valetudinarian; and under God, he is oblig'd for the
Preservation of his Life to his Physician _Gersner_, a Native of _Vienna_,
a Man of great Skill in his Profession, and of strict Honour and
Integrity, who has got so much the length of the Prelate's Foot that he is
almost the only Person that dares to speak to him with Freedom. The Count
_d'Arco_ Son to the Archbishop's Sister is this Prelate's only Darling;
for to the surprize of the whole Court, and Chapter, he prefers him before
a Nephew of his own Name, a Canon of _Saltzbourg_ and of _Trent_, a young
Clergyman of great Hopes.
The Archbishop of the _Lodron_ Family who caus'd the Metropolis to be
built, likewise founded the Archiepiscopal Palace, the Fortifications, and
the Stables, which were all finish'd in the thirty two Years that he was
Archbishop. The Apartments of the Palace being not laid out altogether in
the modern Taste, the deceased Archbishop _Anthony_ Count _de Harrach_,
made a thorough Change in them, and left little more than the Outside
standing. The Palace at _Saltzbourg_ is now more magnificent than many
royal Houses. It contains 173 Rooms all richly furnish'd, without
reckoning the Halls and Galleries. The Archbishop's Apartment is stately:
It has a great Marble Stair-case divided into three Flights, which leads
into a spacious Guard-Chamber, from whence one enters into the
Archbishop's Apartment consisting of several Rooms, where able _Italian_
Masters have adorn'd the Cielings with very good Draughts. One is really
surprized to see the Richness of the Furniture, and the infinite Variety
of other things that are distributed up and down this vast Apartment; such
as Marble Tables adorn'd with gilt Mouldings; old Porcellain of the most
beautiful sort; Lustres of massy Silver, and Rock Crystal of uncommon
Workmanship; Chandeliers also of Silver or Crystal upon large gilded
Stands, and a multitude of other things very well worth observation.