of a couple of Saints extremely dear to the _Bohemians_. The one is St.
_Wenceslaus_ King of _Bohemia_, the other St. _John Nepomucene_. The
latter was very lately canonized by Pope _Benedict_ XIII. at the Request
of the States of this Kingdom, who were at the whole Expence of the
Ceremony, which was performed in the Church of St. _John de Lateran_ at
_Rome_ with extraordinary Pomp.
The Story of this Saint is very singular: He was Confessor to the Wife of
that cruel Emperor _Wenceslaus_, who was deposed by the Electors. That
Prince being jealous of his Queen enjoined St. _John Nepomucene_ to reveal
that Princess's Confessions to him. He employed Presents, Prayers and
Threats, to persuade the Saint to make this Discovery, but all to no
purpose; upon which he caused him to be cast headlong from the Bridge
into the River of _Molde_. The Body was seen floating at some distance
from the Place, attended with five Stars swimming on the Water; then he
was added to the Number of the Saints and Martyrs, and his Corpse was
taken out of the River, and carried with Pomp to _Prague_, where it was
interr'd in the Church of _Dain_ in the old Town, of which he was a Canon.
His Corpse being found some Years ago, his Tongue appearing to be as fresh
as ever, was taken out of his Mouth and put into a Silver Gilt Box; the
Body was enclosed in a stately Coffin, and the whole carried with great
Ceremony to the Cathedral. An Altar being erected in the middle of the
right Wing of the Choir, there the Saint was interr'd in a Tomb of Silver
Gilt; and the Tongue put into a sort of Tabernacle where it has wrought
and does still work great Miracles. There is a great Concourse of People
hither from all Parts to invoke this Saint, whose Tomb is loaded with
precious Gifts, and adorned by the Empress with a rich Canopy. But no body
has given more illustrious Proofs of Devotion to St. _Nepomucene_ than the
Prince _de Schwartzenberg_[88] Master of the Horse to the Emperor, and the
Count _de Martinitz_ Marshal of the Imperial Court; who both ascribe the
Conception of their Wives, and the Birth of their Sons, to the Protection
of that Saint, tho' I should have thought all this feasible enough without
a Miracle. The Princess _de Schwartzenberg_ had not been married many
Years before she had a Daughter[89]; her Husband had not seen her for
fourteen Years after this, during which she had no Children. This is no
more than common; after they came together again Madam is brought to Bed
of a Son, in which tho' there is nothing but what is very natural, yet
'tis cry'd up for a Miracle; the Birth is ascribed to the Devotion which
the Princes paid to the Tomb of St. _Nepomucene_ for nine Days together,
and to make the Saint some amends, his Tomb and his Altar are adorn'd by a
great many Vessels of Silver and Silver gilt.
As to Count _Martinitz_ there seems indeed to be better colour for a
Miracle in his favour. He had been married fourteen or fifteen Years, and
his Lady never given the least Sign of Teemingness. She was in good plight
of body, her Husband liv'd with her, and they went together several times
to the Baths of _Carlsbad_, but all had signified nothing. The Count
longing passionately for a Son had perform'd more than nine days Devotion
successively, for he went the last Holy Year to _Loretto_ and to _Rome_.
But Heaven deaf to his Cries granted him no Heir; at last knowing not what
Saint to pray to, his Lady propos'd, that they should go and worship nine
days together at the Tomb of St. _Nepomucene_. They set out, they arrive
at _Prague_, they prostrate themselves before the sacred Tomb. Soon after,
Madame _de Martinitz_ proves with Child, and at nine Months end is
delivered of a Son. You may say whatever you please, but such a Favour
sure was worth some Lamps of solid Silver before the Saint's Tomb; and the
Count _de Martinitz_ full of Zeal and Gratitude has given some that are
very magnificent.
The _Bohemians_ have so great confidence in St. _John de Nepomucene_, that
they have almost forgot St. _Wenceslaus_ their old Patron. There is no
Church where St. _John_ has not a Chapel, no Bridge without his Effigy;
every body Gentle and Simple, Men and Women, wear his Picture as if it
were the Badge of an Order, hanging to a straw-colour'd Ribbon, and you
would swear that all the _Bohemians_ were Knights of St. _Louis_. In
short, St. _Nepomucene_ is the only Saint in vogue; and Presents are
heap'd upon him to such a degree that if it continues much longer, he will
be as rich as our Lady of _Loretto_.
The Palace or Castle which joins to the Cathedral is a great Building
composed of several Main Bodies without Symmetry or Architecture. The
Apartments are but low and plain, but here is one of the most beautiful
Prospects in the World. The great Hall in which the Royal Feast is kept on
the Day of the Coronation of the Kings is the largest of the kind, next to
the spacious Hall of _Westminster_. The Palace-Gardens are large, but have
nothing to recommend them besides their Situation. The Tribunals of the
Regency meet in the Palace: The first of these consists of Stadtholders
who are of the Emperor's Privy Council. They are to the Number of twelve,
and represent the Sovereign. Most of them are the great Officers of the
Crown. There must be always two of them private Gentlemen to take care of
the Interests of the Gentry against the Nobility; for you must know that
the Princes, Counts, and Barons, who compose the Nobility, form a separate
Body here, and would think it a Disparagement to be call'd _Gentlemen_;
tho' _Henry_ IV. King of _France_ counted it an honour to be the first
Gentleman in his Kingdom, and King _Francis_ I. whenever he affirmed a
thing, said, _Upon the Word of a Gentleman_.
The Chief of the Council of the Stadtholders is call'd the _Great
Burgrave_, whose Dignity is the highest in the Kingdom. He represents the
Person of the Emperor, and is inferior to none but the Chancery of
_Bohemia_ which always attends the Emperor.
The Bridge over the _Muldaw_ which joins little _Prague_ to the old Town,
is one of the longest and most substantial Bridges in _Europe_. It has on
both sides the Statues of several Saints, which if they had been done by
a better hand, would have prov'd an Ornament. There is a Crucifix also
which is pretended to be of Gold, and to have been erected formerly at the
Expence of the _Jews_, pursuant to an Order of the Government, as a
Punishment for their having crucified a Christian Infant upon
_Easter_-Day, to insult the Memory of our Saviour's Death.
The _Jews_ are the only Sectaries that are tolerated in _Bohemia_. There
are some _Hussites_ still subsisting, but they keep so close, that the
Government does not seem to know that there are any at all. I was assur'd
that in _Prague_ alone there were no less than 80,000 _Jews_; whether
there are quite so many, I know not; but 'tis certain they are very
numerous. Their Quarter in the old City forms a little separate Town. They
have all the Trade in their own hands, follow all sorts of Callings, and
by their receiving all old-fashion'd things in Payment, they quite ruin
the Christian Handicrafts-men. As these People multiply like Rabbets, 'tis
said the Emperor is going to issue an Ordinance prohibiting any but their
eldest Sons to marry; the Report of which is so alarming to the _Jews_,
that they would advance great Sums to prevent its taking effect.
If we except _Rome_, _Paris_, and _London_, there is no City where there
are more Gentry, or a Gentry that is more wealthy: Every body here lives
grand; and in no Part of the World do the Nobility keep greater State, or
take more Pride in their Substance. They are polite and civil to
Strangers, whom they know to be Persons of Quality. For my own part, I
like them prodigiously, and I can safely say it, I have hardly met with a
Foreigner who has not the same Notion of _Prague_ that I have.
There is not a Gentleman in this Country but has seen at least _Holland_,
_France_, and _Italy_, and indeed they are under some necessity of
travelling, for the Education they have at home is none of the best. But
they don't travel as People of their Birth and Fortunes ought to do. They
are commonly attended by a sort of Governors, who make it their Profession
to ramble abroad with young Gentlemen, and are for the most part
_Walloons_, _Luxemburghers_, _Lorrainers_, or _Liegeois_, Soldiers of
Fortune, without Education, and without Manners; who think 'tis enough for
their Pupils to see Houses and Churches, and having not the Courage or the
Capacity to put themselves forward, or even to shew their Heads, don't
care that their Gentlemen should keep Company. They tell _young Master_,
that my Lord his Father, who put him under their Care, recommended
[OE]conomy to them; that they might game at Assemblies, but that 'tis not
well to play while they are travelling: Therefore the Spark is oblig'd to
keep in his Quarters, or if he is perhaps permitted to go to the public
Shews, even this Pleasure, because it is not to be had without Money, must
be taken in Moderation; the Governor's Aim is only to crib all he can, and
sink his Pupil's Money into his own Purse. This is so true that I have
known some who never eat Suppers, yet always brought them to Accompt; many
of 'em get a Profit by every thing they buy, and they make such hard
Bargains that 'tis ten to one if they don't chouse the Merchant as well as
their Pupil. If the Governor does not like the Place they come to, he must
be gone, tho' it were the most proper Town in the World to form the young
Gentleman; for the Governor only writes to the Father or Mother that the
Air did not agree with their Son, and that therefore he had remov'd him.
The Generality of these wretched Guides maintain that six Weeks or three
Months Stay at most is sufficient to know _Paris_; a Fortnight to be
thoroughly acquainted with the Genius of the _English_; a Month to know
_Rome_; a Week to see _Naples_; and so of the rest: And when they have
shewn their Gentleman at _Paris_, the Anatomical Wax-work and the
Observatory; at _London_, the Lions in the Tower; at _Rome_, the
Catacombs; and at _Naples_, the Liquefaction of St. _Januarius_'s Blood,
and Mount _Vesuvius_; they think they have done great matters, and away
they go without having made an Acquaintance with one Soul at any of the
Courts. They have seen the King of _France_ touch for the Evil; The King
of _England_ go to the Parliament-House; and the Pope sitting in his
Elbow-Chair, distributing his Benedictions. With a Mind thus adorn'd, the
young Man, after eighteen Months or two Years Absence abroad, returns
home. The Governor has two or three thousand Florins, and sometimes more
as a Gratuity, besides his Stipend. Again, the worthy _Mentor_ makes a
Bubble of the Father who trusts his Son with him, and behold now, he is
ready for another Tour. One would think that, instead of travelling in
this manner, it were better to send abroad for the Plans of all the Towns,
I am sure 'twould be cheaper; the Parents would have the comfort to see
their Sons at home, and they would also have wherewithal to furnish a
little Box in the Country.
There are no People of Quality in the World more addicted to an expensive
way of Living than those of _Prague_, which is the Reason that for all
their immense Revenues they are sometimes over Head and Ears in Debt; but
by good Luck they have a Settlement which prevents them from total Ruin:
For most of their Lands are intail'd for ever on the eldest Son of the
Family, so that he can neither alienate nor incumber them without the
Consent of the whole Family, and of the King himself, which is a Thing
very hard to be obtain'd. When an eldest Son of a Family has squander'd
his Freehold, and runs himself more and more in debt, the Creditors, and
sometimes the Parents themselves, present a Petition to the King and
desire a Sequestration. The King after being inform'd of the List of the
Debts, and of the _Majorat_ (which is the Name they give here to the Lands
that are intail'd) names Trustees for the Administration of the Estates of
the Spendthrift, who is allow'd a Pension till all the Debts are paid.
There's another very good Establishment here for securing the Sale of
Landed Estates and Mortgages. Every Nobleman gives in a Particular of his
Estate to a Tribunal which is call'd the _Landtaffel_, where the same is
register'd. When a Person wants to borrow Money or to make a Sale, the
Lender or the Purchaser has recourse to the _Landtaffel_'s Office, where
he sees whether the Lands are incumber'd; and if the Borrower's Debts
don't exceed two Thirds of the Price at which they are rated by the
_Landtaffel_, he may lend his Money very safely.
Tho' the _Bohemians_ are brave and good Soldiers, yet they don't love the
Service, I mean the Gentry: Most of them prefer the Civil to Military
Employments, and a private Life to Posts in the Army or at Court. They are
so us'd to be absolute Masters at their Estates where the Peasants are
their Slaves, and to be homag'd like Petty Sovereigns by the Burghers at
_Prague_, that they don't care to reside at _Vienna_, and to be oblig'd
like other Subjects to pay their Court to the Sovereign and the Ministers.
As soon as a Gentleman of _Bohemia_ comes of Age, he is oblig'd to take an
Oath of Fidelity to the Emperor as his King; which is a Law as much
binding on the Nobility as the Gentry; and none of 'em dare to go out of
the Kingdom without express Leave from the Emperor, on the Penalty of
forfeiting his Estate. When the Noblemen are return'd from their Travels
to _France_ and _Italy_, they put in to be Chamberlains, not so much for
the sake of engaging themselves to Attendance at Court as to procure a
Precedency for their Wives, it being a Custom with most of 'em to marry as
soon as they come of Age. Afterwards they aim to be Counsellors of State,
and Stadtholders, and this is the _Ne plus ultra_ of their Preferments.
The Counsellors of State challenge the Title of _Excellency_: But this is
what those who are not of that Denomination, and of as good Families as
themselves, scruple to allow them, so that generally speaking they have it
only given them by their Domestics and Dependants. So that one may say of
their Excellencies what the Duchess of _Elboeuf_ of the _Lorrain_ Family
said in _France_ concerning the Princes of _Bouillon_, that they were
_Domestic Highnesses_, because none but their own Servants give them the
Title of _Highness_.
Of all the great and wealthy Families, those of _Lobkowitz_, _Kinski_,
_Schlick_, _Collobradt_, and _Martinitz_ are the only ones that make a
Figure at the Imperial Court. 'Tis true there are several other Noblemen
at _Vienna_ who have Lands in _Bohemia_, but then their Families are not
originally descended from that Kingdom.
The _Kinski_'s Family is actually the most splendid at Court. There are
five Brothers of it in Employments. The eldest is the Great Chancellor of
_Bohemia_[90]. The second who is call'd Count _Stephen_, is Great Marshal
of _Bohemia_, a Minister of State, and the Emperor's Ambassador at the
Court of _France_[91]. The third, Count _Philip_, is the Emperor's
Minister Plenipotentiary to _Great Britain_; and the two youngest are in
the Army, where one of them is a Lieutenant-Colonel. Count _Philip_ was
sent Ambassador when but twenty nine Years old. He has demonstrated by his
Conduct that Wisdom does not always stay for Age, and that he is the
worthy Son of one of the greatest Ministers that[92] the Emperors
_Leopold_ and _Joseph_ ever had. The City of _Prague_ is a very great
Loser by his Absence, for he liv'd there with Splendor, and his House was
always open, particularly to Foreigners. For my own part I receiv'd such
Civilities there as I shall never forget.
As I have told you that the Nobility of _Bohemia_ are the richest in the
Empire, I must also acquaint you that the Peasants there are miserable to
the last degree; their Persons, and all they have, are at the Command of
their Lord. The poor Wretches have often not a Bit of Bread to eat, in a
Country which is one of the most plentiful in _Europe_ for all sorts of
Provisions. They dare not go from one Village to another to work, nor
learn a Handicraft without their Lord's Consent. So much Subjection keeps
the poor Creatures always trembling and humble, so that if you do but
speak to 'em they are ready to lick the Dust off your Feet. The Severity
with which these People are us'd is really terrible, but 'tis as true on
the other hand, that gentle Usage has no Effect upon 'em; for they are
excessively lazy and stubborn, and being moreover us'd to harsh Treatment
from Generation to Generation, Blows scarce terrify them, tho' tis the
only way to make 'em good for any thing.
The _Bohemians_ have a great many Talents for Music, so that there's no
Village, be it ever so small, but the Mass is sung in Concert, and they
are very happy at winding the Hunters Horn.
'Tis certain that this Kingdom is one of the best Countries in the
Emperor's possession, and next to _Hungary_, brings him in most Money.
_Bohemia_ is a Country of States, whom the Emperor as King of it, summons
every Year to the City of _Prague_. They consist of the Clergy, Nobility,
Gentry, and Towns. The Assembly is open'd by a Commissioner of the
Emperor's Nomination, who lays before them his Imperial Majesty's Demands.
The States, such is their Submission and Zeal, grant the full Demand which
is commonly a very great Sum; yet for all this, the _Bohemians_ wou'd not
complain of Taxes if the Emperor resided among them, but they are sorry to
see their Country exhausted to enrich the _Austrians_ to whom they have a
natural Aversion, and the _Austrians_ as heartily hate the _Bohemians_.
I own to you I shall be sorry to leave _Prague_. I take the _Bohemians_ to
be the best People upon Earth, and _Prague_ to be one of those Towns of
the Empire where a Gentleman may have most choice of Company. The Ladies
here are very amiable. Gaming, which may be call'd the universal Pleasure,
is carry'd as high here as they please in Houses of the Quality, where
Assemblies of both Sexes are held every Night, with good Cheer,
particularly Pheasants and Ortolans in plenty; and upon Fish-Days, there
are Trouts, Salmon, and Cray-Fish; and that there may be nothing wanting,
_Bohemia_ likewise furnishes good Wine. At the Estate of the young Count
_Tschernin_ at _Melneg_, there is a red sort not inferior to _Burgundy_.
Of all these good Things many partake together, and for my part I own I am
taken more with this Pleasure than any other, because we make it last as
long as we will, and then 'tis suited to all Ages.
There is a tolerable _Italian Opera_ here. In Winter they have Races in
stately Sledges: There is great Masquerading, and they dance till they are
ready to drop to the ground: For this end there are public Balls which are
extraordinary splendid, and might be compar'd, if any can be compar'd,
with the Balls at the _Hay-Market_ in _London_.
In the Summer-Time when there is not so much Company in Town, these
Assemblies are thinner. The Gentry meet at Night in a Garden belonging to
the Prince _de Schwartzenberg_, where they game, chat, and walk up and
down, after which they always go to some House or other to sup. When one
has a mind to go to the Country, we are sure of a good Reception, and the
longer one stays the greater Pleasure one gives to the Master of the
House. Here they pass the Time in Hunting of all sorts. Many of the
Nobility keep Packs of Hounds, and others Hawks. The Generality keep
Musicians in their Service, so that let the Weather be what it will, one
may be always amused in this Country. Besides, one enjoys all the Freedom
here that can be. After this, Sir, can you blame me for being sorry to
leave _Bohemia_? But 'tis what I'm now preparing to do, and I purpose to
go to _Vienna_. You will be so good as to let me have a Line from you
there; for to be plain with you, to write three Letters for one is too
hard. 'Tis true that your's are of inestimable Value, and that therefore
you are in the right not to be lavish of them; but the same Reason
justifies me in desiring them. Adieu, Sir: Love me always a little, and be
assur'd that no Man is more than I, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XII.
_SIR_, _Vienna, Nov. 30, 1729._
The Court of VIENNA consists of so many Princes and Noblemen, that it
cannot be deny'd to be the greatest and most magnificent Court in
_Europe_. Nevertheless Ceremonies, and the _Etiquette_, a Name by which
they call ancient Usages, give it an Air of Constraint that is to be seen
no where else. There's a universal Out-cry against the latter, and even
the Emperor sometimes seems to be disturb'd at it, yet 'tis observ'd as
strictly as if it was an Article of Religion, and nothing cou'd set it
aside but an Oecumenical Council.
Notwithstanding this, a Foreigner of Quality (for such he must be here)
finds Advantages at this Court which he does not meet with either at
_Paris_ or _London_, I mean Opportunities of making Acquaintance. After a
Person has been to wait on their Imperial Majesties he need only be
introduc'd into one single Family to be soon made known to all the rest,
with this Advantage too, that go where you will, they speak the _German_,
_French_, _Italian_, and _Spanish_ Languages; whereas a Foreigner at
_Paris_ is under a Necessity of speaking _French_, and at _London_
_English_; but a Man may shift very well at _Vienna_ without the
_High-Dutch_ or _German_ Language.
The Ministers and great Lords of the Court are Civil, Courteous, and of
easy Access, especially to such as want no Favour of 'em, and come to
_Vienna_ only for Curiosity or Business. The Way of these Gentlemen is to
return no Visits: but they invite People to their Tables, which being
always well fill'd, a Man soon gets a great deal of Acquaintance.
'Tis a very easy matter to be admitted to kiss the Hands of their Imperial
Majesties, and even to obtain a private Audience of 'em; for there needs
nothing more than to give in your Name to the Emperor's Great Chamberlain
and the Empress's Great Master of the Houshold. When you kiss their Hands
you bend one Knee to the Ground, and the Time for it is generally when
their Majesties pass by to Dinner. But private Audiences are attended with
more Ceremonies. The Great Chamberlain having appointed the Hour of
meeting in his Antichamber, which is commonly five o'clock in the Evening,
he repairs thither at that Time, and introduces to the Audience; and if he
be absent, 'tis done by the Chamberlain in Waiting. The Ceremony observ'd
is this: The Emperor stands up under a Canopy, leaning with his Back
against a Table, and an Arm-Chair by his Side, A Screen of red Velvet with
Gold Fringe is plac'd at the Entrance of the Room, so that the Emperor is
not perceiv'd at the opening of the Door. Behind this Screen near the
Door, stands the Great Chamberlain. As soon as the Person comes in sight
of the Emperor he bends the Knee, which he repeats as he advances a little
farther, and again when he comes near to his Imperial Majesty. To these
Genuflexions the Emperor gives a Nod of the Head, hearkens very
attentively to the Person who addresses him, and returns a succinct and
gracious Answer. Then the Person kneeling with one Knee on the Ground
kisses his Majesty's Hand, after which he retires, going backwards and
making three Genuflexions as he did at Entrance. The same Ceremonies are
observ'd at an Audience of the Empress, who gives it standing just as the
Emperor does, with this Difference only that the Emperor is all alone, and
the Empress is attended with one of her Ladies of Honour, who nevertheless
stands off at such a Distance that she can't hear what is said.