have very little to add to it. I assure you this Town is the most
disagreeable Place in _Europe_ to live in. The Patricians are the People
of the first Rank there, and lord it like the petty Nobles of _Venice_.
The Government here too has very great Resemblance with the _Venetian_,
and they have a sort of Doge. In short they are very much like the Frog in
the Fable that strove to swell it self to the Size of the Ox. Of these
Patricians some are very rich, but they are so rude that no body visits
them, and they scarce visit one another. Perhaps you will ask me what I
mean by the Term _Patricians_? 'Tis this; they are Gentlemen: There are
Patrician Families old enough to dispute Antiquity with any of the
Nobility whatsoever, and who were formerly admitted into all the Chapters.
But now the case is otherwise; for the Nobility not only exclude them out
of the Chapters, but dispute their being Gentlemen; pretending that they
derogate from the Title by their Magistratical Offices. Such is, you know,
our _Germanic_ Vanity; the things which are honourable in other Countries,
are with us diminutive: The Court, the Sword, and the Church, are the only
Professions that a Gentleman can follow: If he has not the Talents proper
for one or other of these, or if Fortune frown upon him, he had better be
out of the World than take any Offices of the Magistracy upon him, or
enter into Trade: He had better beg Alms nobly than marry beneath himself.
But I shall not here set up for a Censor of the _Germanic_ Customs. Let us
talk of _Nuremberg_. This City has 6 Gates, 12 Conduits, and 118 Wells. Of
the Churches St. _Laurence_'s is the biggest: There's a great many
Reliques in it, particularly a part of the Manger in which our Saviour was
laid, a piece of his Garment, and three Links of the Chains which bound
St. _Peter_, St. _Paul_, and St. _John_. As the _Lutherans_ make no great
account of those Reliques, they wou'd do well to give them to some poor
Catholic Convent, which would thereby soon be enrich'd.
You know that the Government here is altogether Evangelical, _i. e._
_Lutheran_. The Catholics have a small Church in the House of the Teutonic
Order: The _Calvinists_ go to the Church in the Territory of _Anspach_;
but the _Jews_ are not tolerated because 'tis said they formerly poisoned
the Wells. They live in a Place not far from _Nuremberg_, but come to Town
every Morning, paying something for their Entrance, have an old Woman set
over them, who is commonly both their Guard and their Guide, and are
permitted to trade and trick wherever they can till Night, when they are
obliged to retire.
In the Church of the Hospital is kept _Charlemain_'s Crown, said to weigh
fourteen Pounds, the Sceptre and the Globe, in short all the Ornaments of
Empire except _Charlemain_'s Sword said to have been brought from Heaven
by an Angel, the same very likely that carry'd the holy Vial and the
Oriflamb to _France_. That Sword is kept at _Aix la Chapelle_.
The Trade of _Nuremberg_ is very much fallen off; for besides that the
Toys and Knick-knacks which were formerly made in this City are much out
of fashion, especially in _Germany_, the Manufactures which the Margraves
of _Bareith_ and _Anspach_ have settled in their Dominions do considerable
Prejudice to _Nuremberg_.
The Inhabitants of this City may be, (at least I think 'em so) the
honestest People in the World, but they are the most horrible
Complimenters that I know. I cou'd not set my Foot in a Shop, but the
Master, the Mistress, the Children and the Apprentices waited on me into
the very Street, than king me for the Honour I had done them. My Landlord
too, who saw me go in and out twenty times a day, receiv'd me always with
great Ceremony, and ask'd me how I did. And when I went out he pray'd me
not to leave his House long in Contempt, without honouring it with my
Presence.
_Nuremberg_ is the richest and most potent Imperial City next to
_Hambourg_. The Domain of _Nuremberg_ is even much larger than that of
_Hambourg_, but the latter bears the Bell for Wealth. 'Tis said that
_Nuremberg_ has seven other Towns in its Territory, with 480 Villages and
Parishes. Yet for all this 'tis not a rich City; for the Patricians
pocket all the Money, and the Citizens are poor.
Next Day after my Arrival at _Nuremberg_ I set out for
_Christian_-ERLANGEN, a Town in the Margraviate of _Brandenbourg-Bareith_,
which owes its flourishing State to a Colony of _French_ People who fled
out of _France_ on account of their Religion.
Forty Years ago _Erlangen_ was but a little Village in the middle of a
Forest of Fir-Trees. The Margrave _Christian_ giving shelter to the
_French_ who left their Country after the Revocation of the Edict of
_Nantz_, assign'd them _Erlangen_ to settle in. When they cut down the
Woods they built the Town, to which they gave the Name of
_Christian-Erlangen_, in Memory of _Christian_ their Benefactor. All the
Streets are in a strait Line. The _French_ have set up all sorts of
Manufactures here, and have made it one of the prettiest Towns of
_Germany_. Madame[83] _Elizabeth-Sophia_ of _Brandenbourg_, second
Daughter of the Elector _Frederic-William_, and third Wife of the Margrave
_Christian_ Founder of _Erlangen_, caus'd a very handsome Palace to be
built in the great Square of this City, to which there are noble Gardens.
'Tis at present occupy'd by _Sophia_ of _Saxe-Weissenfels_, Widow of the
last Margrave of _Bareith_. This Princess was to have dwelt at _Neustadt_,
which was settled on her for her Dowry; but as 'tis a lonesome,
melancholy, scoundrel Place, the Margrave Regent was willing she should
live at _Erlangen_. The Margravine Dowager was one of the most beautiful
Princesses in the World, of which she still preserves the fair Remains,
and none can have an Air more grand. She lives at _Erlangen_ with all the
Dignity becoming her Rank. Foreigners are very well received at her Court,
and particularly by the Princess herself, who for Politeness has few
Equals.
From _Christian-Erlangen_ I went in less than a Day to _Bamberg_, tho' I
stay'd two or three Hours at FORCHEIM a Place in the Bishoprick of
_Bamberg_, whose Buildings appear'd to me to be old and out of repair.
The Bishoprick of BAMBERG is the first Bishoprick of the Empire. The
Bishop is Suffragan to no Archbishop. He depends only as to Spirituals
upon the Holy See, and receives the Pall as an Archbishop. He has moreover
this Distinction, that the Electors are his great Officers as they are
those of the Empire, and he has the Privilege of summoning them to come
and do the Duties of their Offices on the Day of his Installation. I have
not heard that any Bishop ever made use of this mighty Prerogative, for
the Retinue which those great Officers would bring along with them might
be a Charge to him. The great Privileges which this Prelate enjoys are
counter-balanc'd by one Mortification; for if the Electors happen to chuse
an Emperor who has no Dominions, the Bishop of _Bamberg_ would be oblig'd
to yield him his Episcopal City and Palace. 'Tis said that the Emperor has
the same Right to _Rome_, and that if he should chuse that ancient City of
the World for his Residence, the Pope wou'd be oblig'd to yield him the
Palace of the Vatican and to retire to that of St. _John de Lateran_. But
I really think that the Holy Father and the Bishop of _Bamberg_ will not
be so soon turn'd out.
The late Elector of _Mentz_, _Lotharius-Francis de Schonborn_, who was
also Bishop of _Bamberg_, embellish'd the City with a new Episcopal
Palace, a great and stately Building that stands on an Eminence, from
whence there is an extensive Prospect of various Beauties.
The City of _Bamberg_ is very well built, and has beautiful Churches.
Herein is to be seen the Tomb of the Emperor _Henry_ II. and his Wife the
Empress _Cunegonda_. This Princess lies at the right hand of her Husband,
because she kept her Virginity to her Death. Was not this abusing the
Sacrament of Marriage?
The Bishop who fills the Episcopal See of _Bamberg_ is _Frederic-Charles_,
Count de _Schonborn_, Vice-Chancellor of the Empire. This Prelate being
Minister of State to the Emperor commonly resides at _Vienna_, and is now
there, so that I have nothing to say to you of his Court; but I reckon I
shall be able to give you some Account of him after I have paid my
Respects to him at _Vienna_.
The Neighbourhood of _Bamberg_ is very agreeable, but as one comes to it
from _Nuremberg_ thro' a certain Forest of Fir-Trees, it strikes a Man
with Horror to find an Avenue to it a quarter of a League in length form'd
by Wheels and Gibbets. This, at first sight gives a Stranger no very great
Idea of the Honesty of the People; but he is of another Opinion when he
comes to know that these expos'd Malefactors are for the most part
Foreigners. The Bishoprick of _Bamberg_ is contiguous to seven or eight
different States, and the Town it self lies in the greatest Road of all
_Germany_, which is the Reason that 'tis so infested by Rogues from all
Quarters. In the time of the Elector of _Mentz_, _Bamberg_ was their _Ne
plus ultra_, for that Prince gave them no Quarter: Being an Enemy to
Wickedness, and one of the greatest Justiciaries that we have had in
_Germany_, he sent all to the Gallows that deserv'd Hanging.
About a League out of the Town the Bishop has a charming Pleasure-House;
but there is nothing in all _Germany_ more magnificent than the Castle of
POMMERSFELDEN belonging to the Count _de Schonborn_, which is three
Leagues from _Bamberg_. _Francis Lotharius de Schonborn_ Elector of
_Mentz_ caus'd this stately Fabric to be built, the whole of which forms a
great Body of Building flank'd by two Pavilions with two advanc'd Wings.
The whole is regularly built, and decorated with well-fancy'd
Architecture. The Entry is supported by several Colonnades, where the
first thing that presents it self is the grand Stair-Case, which is
extraordinary magnificent, and perhaps one of the best contrived in
_Europe_. This Entry leads into a Salon which serves as a Passage to the
Garden; 'tis in form of a Grotto adorn'd with several Fountains, Columns,
and Statues of Marble: The Cieling is painted as well as the Sky-Light of
the Stair-Case, and the Arches of the principal Apartments. They are all
painted by Hands that the Elector sent for on purpose from _Italy_. I
don't give you the Particulars of the great Salon, nor of the Apartments,
because it would take up a Volume. The whole are laid out with Art, and
furnish'd with great Choice, Judgment and Splendor.
The Stables answer exactly to the Castle which they front. They are built
in form of a Half-Moon with a Pavilion in the middle, which is an oval
Salon, from both Sides of which you see all the Horses. The Mangers are of
Marble in form of Shells, and the Racks of Iron neatly wrought in form of
a Basket or Scuttle.
The Salon in the middle of the two Stables is painted in Fresco, and looks
one way to the Court, and the other to the Riding-House, where the Elector
us'd to see the Horses manag'd belonging to the Studs of his Bishoprick
near _Bamberg_, one of the best in _Germany_.
The Gardens of _Pommersfelden_ are very answerable to the Magnificence of
the Buildings: In a word, every Thing belonging to this fine House is
worthy of it. The Builder of it had sublime Ideas: He spared no Cost to
leave Monuments of his Grandeur and Wealth to Posterity, and has made a
House of _Pommersfelden_ which really surpasses some Royal Palaces. But
'tis time to take you out of this fine Place and to carry you back to
_Bamberg_.
There is a good Number of the Nobility settled in this Town. The Chapter
consists of Persons of Quality: It has the Right of chusing the Bishop;
and 'tis he who governs in the Absence of the Prince. Such a Resort as
here is of the Nobility makes the Time pass away agreeably; but they drink
as hard here as at _Fulde_ and _Wurtzbourg_, so that it looks as if
Drinking was an inseparable Function of the Ecclesiastical Courts. Having
some Relations in this Town I stay'd there three Days, during which I had
the Pleasure of Drinking every Day with one of my Cousins out of a great
Goblet of solid Gold which weigh'd to the Value of a thousand Ducats. You
can't imagine how well the Wine went down out of a Cup of that Value. I
heartily wish'd that my Cousin wou'd have dealt by me as _Joseph_ did by
_Benjamin_, and that he had put up his Cup in my Portmanteau, provided he
wou'd not have sent to fetch me back again, as the Governour of _Egypt_
did his Brother; but this was what my dear Cousin did not think fit to do.
He made me drink my Skin-full of Wine, and only wish'd me my Pockets full
of Gold.
From _Bamberg_ I went to BAREITH the Residence of the Margrave of
_Brandenbourg_. The elder of the two Branches of that Family settled in
_Franconia_. _John George_ Elector of _Brandenbourg_ divided his Dominions
between his three Sons: He left the Electorate with its Appendages to his
eldest Son, and gave the Margraviate of _Culmbach_ to _Christian_ his
second Son, and that of _Anspach_ to his third Son. _Christian_ form'd
two Branches, that of _Bareith_ and that of _Culmbach_. The Branch of
_Bareith_ became extinct in 1726, by the Death of _George-William_, whose
Widow lives at _Erlangen_. _George-Frederic-Charles_ Margrave of
_Culmbach_ his Cousin, succeeded him. This Prince has five Children,
_viz._ two Princes[84] and three Princesses[85]. He marry'd _Dorothy_ of
_Holstein-Beck_ at _Berlin_ in 1709. I had then the Honour to see him: He
was a Prince of a noble Aspect, very civil, good-natur'd, and temperate,
and a Lover of Books and Men of Learning. He did an Act of Generosity that
perhaps is not to be parallel'd, and which I relate to you as the most
authentic Testimony that can be of his Good-nature and Integrity.
His Predecessor had left an empty Exchequer and a great many Debts; and
the Margrave at his Accession to the Regency was oblig'd to pay the King
of _Prussia_ 460000 Florins, upon condition that his Majesty wou'd
renounce any Pretensions he might have to the Margraviate, by virtue of
the Resignation of all Rights to the Succession which had been made by the
Margrave of _Culmbach_ his Father, in favour of _Frederic_ I. King of
_Prussia_. To raise this Sum on People already overburden'd by the common
Taxes, was to seek their Ruin. The Margrave in pity of their miserable
Condition, chose rather to borrow this Money of the States of the Circle
of _Franconia_ at great Interest. When he found himself in peaceable
possession of his Dominions by the Payment made to the King of _Prussia_,
he undertook to pay off not only his own, but the Debts of his
Predecessor. To enable himself to do this, he began by turning off his
Court, kept but a small Number of Counsellors and Gentlemen, and disbanded
3000 Men of the Troops which the late Margrave kept in pay to no purpose.
He reduc'd his Table to the greatest Frugality; his Clothes were plain,
and he avoided Magnificence and Gaming. Some time after this, he made
another Reform in his House, and kept up but a very small Number of
Domestics. He establish'd a Council of Regency, and to save the Expence
which his Rank as a Sovereign would have engag'd him in whether he wou'd
or not, he left his Dominions, and went to live incognito with the
Hereditary Prince his Son at _Geneva_. I believe that both of them are
actually at _Montpellier_[86]. He is resolv'd not to return to his
Dominions till all his Debts are paid off. Mean time his Subjects wish for
his Return with Impatience, for he has such a Kindness for them, and
governs them with such mildness that they look on him as their Father and
Benefactor. This Retirement of the Margrave from the Splendors of
Sovereignty is the more to be commended because 'tis absolutely voluntary:
He was not at all oblig'd to pay the Debts of his Predecessor; for they
were of such a Nature as not to be rank'd among the Debts of the
Government. Nevertheless it was his Pleasure to do it, and he chose rather
to abridge himself of the Charms of Sovereignty than that People, whose
Faith in the Government had made them part with their Money, shou'd lose
their Debts. Such a glorious Action as this, is in my Judgment equal to
the Laurels of twenty Victories: This was owing to his Virtue, whereas
Victory is generally the Consequent of Chance and Fortune.
You will easily imagine that while the Sovereign is absent this City is
not very gay. It appear'd to me the more melancholy because I had seen it
in the time of the late Margrave, at whose Court there was continual
Feasting and Jollitry.
The City of _Bareith_ is inferior to _Erlangen_. The Margrave's Palace is
a great old Pile, but not very commodious, and meanly furnish'd. This
Prince has a very pretty House, a League from _Bareith_, call'd the
_Hermitage_, which was built by Order of the late Margrave.
It stands in the middle of a thick Wood, in which there are a great many
Pavilions built, without any Symmetry indeed, but very ingeniously
contriv'd within for the Use to which they serve. When the late Margrave
came to the Hermitage, he and his whole Court were in the Dress of
Hermits. There were certain Hours in which the Hermit Brothers went to pay
a Visit to the Hermit Sisters, who liv'd in the Pavilions. The Brothers
and Sisters who gave each other Collations, were subject to certain Rules
from which they could not be dispensed but by the Remission of the
Superior of either Sex, who were then the Margrave, and his Lady the
Margravine. In the Evening they met again in the Hall of the Castle, where
they supp'd; and that every thing might be done according to the Rules, at
the beginning of the Supper certain Verses were read, or some little Story
compos'd by one or other of the Hermit Brothers; then Silence was broke,
and every one gave his Opinion upon what had been read, upon which there
ensued a general Conversation. The Supper held till pretty late, and was
commonly followed with a Ball. No body could be admitted into the Order
without the general Consent of the Chapter. And the Superior himself had
no Right but to propose such as were Candidates for Admission. To give you
all the Statutes of this Society, would be too tedious; besides I should
be afraid of adding or diminishing to them, because I only have them from
Tradition.
The Margrave has a Mother still alive, _viz._ _Sophia-Christina_ Countess
of _Wolffenstein_, who lives at _Copenhagen_ with her Daughter the
Princess Royal[87] of _Denmark_. The King of _Denmark_ grants her the
Title of Royal Highness, and causes the same Honours to be paid to her as
to the Princesses of his Family.
The Margrave has also three Brothers and two Sisters. The eldest of the
Brothers is a Major-General and Colonel of Foot in the Service of the
Emperor, and the two others are in the Service of _Denmark_. The two
Princesses are marry'd, one to the Prince Royal of _Denmark_, the other to
_George-Albert_ Prince of _East-Friesland_. So that the intire Family of
_Brandenbourg-Culmbach_ consists of Princes and Princesses to the number
of twelve.
The Revenues of this Margrave are pretty near the same as those of the
Margrave of _Anspach_. His Fortress is the Castle of _Plassenberg_.
From _Bareith_ I came in two Days to CARLSBAD, a Place of Fame for its hot
Waters, of which there are two Sorts differing from one another both in
Strength and Heat. They derive their Source from the middle of a River
form'd by Torrents from the neighbouring Mountains, whose Waters are
extremely cold; yet they make not the least Alteration in the heat of the
Mineral Waters. They are said to be very wholesome for all sorts of
Maladies, particularly for the Gravel, and for the Barrenness of Women. M.
_Hofman_, a celebrated Professor of Physic at _Hall_, has published a
Treatise, wherein he examines the nature of those Waters, and prescribes
how they ought to be used. The Manner is very disagreeable; you are
obliged to be shut up in a Room, and be the Weather ever so hot, the
Stove must be heated, you must be tormented by taking off two or three
Pots of Water, which are almost equal to thirty Chocolate Cups; besides
walking about very much, and sweating great Drops.
To make amends for the Fatigue of the Morning, there is good Company to be
seen here all Day long; for Abundance of Strangers come to _Carlsbad_,
particularly the Nobility of _Bohemia_ and _Austria_. There are publick
Walks and a great Room adjacent, where they play, dance and walk till the
Evening. They who love to live by Rule retire without Supper.
Whoever would be well accommodated at _Carlsbad_ must carry three things
thither with him, his own Bed, Wine, and Cook; tho' a Foot-boy may serve
for the Cook, because one is generally invited by the _Bohemian_ or
_Austrian_ Noblemen, who always keep a great Table, and love Company to
dine with 'em.
The Inhabitants of _Carlsbad_ are generally Armourers, who work very neat
and vastly cheap. At the Season for using the Waters, Merchants flock
hither from all Parts, and _Carlsbad_ is superior to many great Towns. I
had a great deal of Amusement during the two different Seasons that I
pass'd there, and I contracted a World of good Acquaintance, who, I hope,
will be of Service to me at _Prague_, for which Place I propose to set out
to-morrow. I am, _&c._
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
LETTER XI.
_SIR_, _Prague, November 15, 1729._
I have now been a Month in this City, yet it seems but as a Day; for I
find infinite Amusements here, and a thousand things that I like, only I
want your Company. The City of PRAGUE is ancient, and has been time out of
mind, the Seat of the Kings of _Bohemia_. 'Tis without dispute one of the
Biggest Towns in _Europe_. 'Tis encompass'd with Ramparts, and as well
fortified as a Place of that Extent can be, and commanded by several
Hills, which 'tis impossible to level. This City is divided by the River
_Molde_ or _Muldaw_, into two Parts, _viz._ _Old Prague_ and _Little
Prague_; and during the Course of the last Century, it suffer'd the
greatest Cruelties that a City can possibly undergo in a time of War. The
Archduke _Leopold_ Bishop of _Passau_ surpriz'd and plunder'd the lesser
Part, and would have done the same by the old Town, if the Emperor
_Matthias_ King of _Hungary_ had not come in time to relieve it. Nine
Years after this, _Prague_ was again plunder'd by those who were most
concerned to preserve it; I mean the Imperialists, who, after the Battle
at _Weissenberg_, near _Prague_, wherein they defeated _Frederic_ Elector
Palatine whom a Party had chose King of _Bohemia_, enter'd the City, and
carried off inestimable Booty. _Prague_ was used no better in 1631, by the
Elector of _Saxony_, after that Prince made himself Master of _Bohemia_.
The Great _Walstein_ of so much Note for his Glorious Actions, and his
Tragical Exit, recover'd _Bohemia_ from the _Saxon_ in 1632, and took
_Prague_ by Storm. Some time after this the _Swedes_ attack'd it, and took
the lesser _Prague_; but could not force the old Town, it was so
courageously defended by the Students and Burghers. The _Swedes_ thereupon
retired, and carry'd off immense Wealth. At length the Peace of
_Westphalia_ restored Tranquillity to _Bohemia_ and the City of _Prague_,
which has been subject ever since to the House of _Austria_; and the
Kingdom which before was Elective, had the Mortification to become
Hereditary.
The Situation of _Prague_ is pleasant in the midst of Gardens and fine
Fields, and 'tis adorn'd with noble Buildings, of which the Houses of the
Counts _Tschernin_ and _Sternberg_ are as fine as any. The Furniture of
the former is extremely rich; there is a Gallery adorned with excellent
Pictures, a Cabinet of choice Porcellane with entire Services of the
finest _Indian Lacca_; and another Room full of fine Arms and other
Curiosities. Count _Sternberg_'s House is not so large, yet better
contriv'd; and in _Rome_ it self would pass for a fine Palace. But there
is one built by the late Count _de Gallasch_, who died Viceroy at
_Naples_, that bears the Bell above all. You know that Nobleman was
prodigiously rich and magnificent. He spared no Cost in his Buildings.
'Tis pity the House is not well situate, but it certainly would be so, if
the young Count _de Gallasch_ was of the same Way of Thinking with his
Father, who intended to have had five or six old Hovels belonging to it
pull'd down to the ground, by which means he would have had a fine Square.
The Convents of both Sexes are another Ornament of this Great City. The
House of the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits is one of the most magnificent.
They have lately caused a Church to be built, which is one of the best
adorned that I have seen out of _Italy_. If you were but here, we would
go together and see all those Buildings. I would carry you first of all to
the Cathedral, which is in lesser _Prague_, on the Top of the Hill call'd
_Ratschin_, and from thence we would go and take a View of the Castle
which is upon the same Hill.
The Metropolitan Church is a very antient Structure, which was burnt down
by the _Swedes_, and is only rebuilt in part. Its Magnificence and Beauty
consist in the thickness of its Walls and Arches; and the Architecture of
this Church is such, that I fancy it would appear _Gothic_ to the very
_Goths_ themselves. 'Tis in this Cathedral that the Kings and Queens of
_Bohemia_ are consecrated. The Archbishop of _Prague_'s Office is to
perform the Unction upon both; but the Abbess of St. _George_, whose Abbey
is also upon the Hill of _Ratschin_, is to place the Crown upon the Head
of the Queen, and in this Function she is assisted by the Wives of the
Great Officers of the Crown.