there are particular Days, such as the Installation of the Knights of the
_Golden Fleece_, when the Empress herself is not allow'd to sit down at
Table with his Imperial Majesty. The Dinner is commonly in the Emperor's
Apartment, and the Supper at the Empress's. At Dinner two Chamberlains
hold the Ewer for their Majesties to wash, and the Steward, or in his
absence the Great Chamberlain presents them the Napkin, which is done
after the manner of _Spain_, with one Knee on the Ground. The Number of
Dishes at the Emperor's Table is forty eight, and the same at the
Empress's; but tho' their Majesties eat together they are each serv'd by
their own Officers and Cooks. They commonly drink both together at the
first Time; and till they have drank, the Ambassadors, Courtiers, and
Ladies all wait at Dinner. After the Emperor has drank, the Steward, the
Master of the Horse, the Great Chamberlain, and the Captain of the Guards
receive his Orders: The Lady of Honour in Waiting and the Empress's
Steward receive her Orders in like manner. None remain in the Room but the
Officers necessary for the Service, and some curious People who are not
us'd to see Sovereigns eat. On Sundays, Saints Days, and Days of _Gala_,
which is the Name they give here to Days of Festival and Ceremony, the
Dinner is attended with Music. I forgot to acquaint you that the Emperor
is always cover'd at Table, and that when he puts his Hat on the
Ambassadors put on theirs.
At Supper the Lady of Honour who is in waiting presents the Napkin, and
the Ladies of the Bed-Chamber not only carve and hand the Victuals, but
taste both the Meat and the Wine. The Pages carry the Dishes and Plates,
and fetch the Wine from the Beaufet which they give to the Ladies, and
they to their Majesties. During the Supper as well as at Dinner all the
Gentlemen and Ladies stand up, so that here neither Princes nor Princesses
have any Distinction shew'd them, but all Ranks are levell'd and
confounded, and no body sits down in presence of the Sovereign.
On the Days of _Gala_ the Court is extremely gay, and nothing is to be
seen but Gold and Diamonds. The Days of this kind that are celebrated with
most Splendor are those of St. _Charles_ and St. _Elizabeth_, the Name
Days of the Emperor and Empress. The Emperor, who commonly dresses very
plain, is cover'd all over with Diamonds upon St. _Elizabeth_'s Day. And
as for the Empress, her Apparel is commonly rich, and so loaded with
Jewels upon St. _Charles_'s Day that she can scarce stand under it. Except
on these Days of _Gala_ the Court dresses very plain. 'Tis true that these
Days are very frequent, and that consequently plain Clothes are not very
much wore, for if it be a Holiday, or the Birth-Day of some Minister, or
if some Lady of Distinction sends but for a Surgeon to bleed her, 'tis
enough to put the whole City in _Gala_. These _Gala's_ may be divided into
three Classes; the _Court Gala_ which is universal both for the Nobles and
Plebeians; the _Grand Gala_ which is kept in the City is for the Festival
of some Minister; and the third and last is the _Little Gala_, which is
when the Ladies are let blood. A Husband makes a _Gala_ here for his Wife,
the Wife for her Husband, the Children for their Parents, and Brothers and
Sisters for one another; so that to be sure two Thirds of _Vienna_ are
always in _Gala_; which made a _French_ Jester say, 'twould take up a
great deal of Brimstone to cure the _Austrians_ of the _Gale_[93].
However, they take care not to appear in this domestic _Gala_ before the
Emperor and Empress, because it would be reckon'd a Disrespect to them.
On the great Festival-Days the Emperor goes with a grand Retinue to St.
_Stephen_'s Cathedral: He takes up one whole Side of the Coach, and the
Empress sits fronting him. Their Majesties are preceded by the
Chamberlains and Knights of the _Golden Fleece_ on horseback: The Pages
and Footmen walk bare-headed immediately after the Coach of the Master of
the Horse, and their Imperial Majesties Coach is guarded on each side by a
File of Archers, and attended by the Coaches of the Arch-Duchesses and the
Ladies. Then the Horse-Guards appear with their Kettle-Drums and Trumpets,
and the March is clos'd by the Pope's _Nuncio_ and the Ambassadors with
their Train, which consists of three magnificent Coaches and six Horses
each.
On _Corpus Christi_ Day the Emperor accompanies the Holy Sacrament, when
the Streets thro' which the Procession passes are cover'd with Planks.
Their Imperial Majesties repair in the Morning with great Attendance to
St. _Stephen_'s Cathedral, and after assisting at Divine Service join in
the Procession. The Emperor is immediately follow'd by the Empress, who is
accompany'd by all the Ladies in rich Dresses, which renders this one of
the most magnificent Processions in the World.
The same Honours and Respects are paid to the Empress Dowager as to the
Empress Regent. She has her separate Houshold, and her own Guards. She has
an Apartment in the Palace, but commonly lives in a Convent of her own
founding in one of the Suburbs, and does not come to Town except on the
great Festivals or for some extraordinary Function. You know, without
doubt, that the Empress Dowagers can never quit Mourning; their Apartments
must be always hung with Black, and their Coaches and Liveries are of the
same Colour: Nor can they be present at any Play, Ball, or Concert. In
short by losing their Husbands they must renounce the Pleasures of this
Life. These severe Obligations on a Widow are fully discharg'd by the
Empress Dowager. Being retir'd to a Convent where she is almost
continually prostrate before the Altars in Prayer and Supplication, she
makes her Mansion a Place of Piety and Peace, and never appears in public
but when Conveniency requires. This Princess was always an Example of the
most uncommon Virtue. In the Life-time of her Husband the Emperor
_Joseph_, she lov'd Pleasures and Grandeur; but when she became a Widow
she renounc'd all, and only employ'd herself in Works of Piety, and in the
Education of the two Arch-Duchesses her Daughters, whom she has now the
Comfort of seeing marry'd to two powerful Princes of the Empire[94].
There's not a Person that draws near her Imperial Majesty but admires her
eminent Qualities. I have not yet had the Honour this Journey of casting
my self at her Feet, but the first Time I was here I had the Advantage of
paying my Duty to her at _Schonborn_, where she then pass'd the Summer. I
was receiv'd by her with such Proofs of her Kindness as charm'd me, and
which I shall always remember with Pleasure and Respect. This Princess is
the Daughter of _John-Frederic_ Duke of _Brunswic-Hanover_ and of
_Henrietta-Benedictine_ Princess Palatine. After the Death of the Duke her
Father, who left no Son, she went with the Duchess of _Brunswic_ to
_France_, where this Princess was very glad to retire to her Sister the
Princess of _Condé_. The Empress who was then the Princess _Amelia_,
spent some Years in _France_, where she learned the Language and
Politeness of that Nation to perfection, and in short acquir'd that Merit
and Virtue for which she is now so much admir'd, and which perhaps have
contributed equally with her illustrious Extraction to gain her possession
of the first Throne in Christendom. The Marriage of her elder Sister to
_Renaud d'Este_ Duke of _Modena_ obliging the Dutchess of _Brunswic_ to
leave _France_, and go and settle at _Modena_, the Princess _Amelia_
follow'd her also into _Italy_. She had no reason to be sorry for her
leaving _France_, and rejecting the Addresses of a _French_ Nobleman who
had presum'd to court her, for not long after her Arrival at _Modena_ she
was marry'd to the King of the _Romans_, afterwards the Emperor _Joseph_.
This Empress is not only endow'd with the Christian but all the Moral
Virtues, and there are few Princesses of a more generous Soul, of greater
Courage, or of a Genius more sublime, more refin'd, or more adorn'd. There
was a Time when she might be rank'd among the most beautiful Princesses of
_Europe_: she still retains all the Marks of it; and therewith preserves
such a majestic Air that whenever I behold her it revives the profound
Veneration I have for her sacred Person.
The Emperor _Charles_ VI. is of a middling Stature, and in good Plight of
Body: He is of a swarthy hale Complection, has a brisk Eye, and thick
Lips, for which last his Family in general have been remarkable. This
Monarch is the second Son of the Emperor _Leopold_ by _Eleonora_ of
_Newbourg_, and the fifteenth Emperor[95] of his Family. Being design'd
when a Minor for Successor to _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, he had a
grave Education suitable to the People whom he was one day to govern. This
made him contract an Air of Seriousness, which, to those who have not the
Honour of Access to him, favours of Severity; yet he is affable and very
humane. He hears those with Attention that speak to him, and his Answers
are full of Good-nature. When he attain'd to an Age hardly ripe enough for
the Crown of _Spain_, he met with various Fortune in that Kingdom; but he
supported himself in every Event with an heroic Magnanimity, being always
submissive to the Will of that Providence which he knew was the Master of
the Fortune of Kings. The Adversitys with which it pleas'd God to try his
Patience by the Siege of _Barcelona_ which he carry'd on in Person, and by
the Loss of the Battle of _Villa Viciosa_, only serv'd to confirm his
Constancy, and his natural Integrity, a Principle which renders him even
more venerable than the Splendor of his Crowns and the vast Extent of his
Power. Heaven, which always rewards Virtue, has granted this Monarch one
of the best and most fortunate Reigns that any Emperor has had since
_Germany_ has been the Seat of Empire. He wants nothing to crown his
Happiness but a Male Heir, which is so much the Desire of the People, as
well as of the Emperor and the most virtuous Empress the World ever saw,
that God grant he may have one.
This Princess is descended from the august House of _Brunswic_, to which
_Europe_ is at this Time oblig'd for two Empresses[96], one King[97], and
a Queen[98]. She is the Daughter of _Lewis Rodolph_ Duke of
_Brunswic-Blankenbourg_[99] by _Christiana-Louisa_ Princess of _Oetingen_,
of whom I gave you an Account in my Letter from _Blankenbourg_. The
Character of this august Princess for her Affability and Goodness is so
well known in the World that 'tis needless to speak of it here. You know
likewise how beautiful and handsome she was when she was marry'd to the
Emperor. And notwithstanding the Pimples in her Face and her present
Corpulency she may still be reckon'd in the number of the beautiful
Princesses. Such an Air of Modesty, Mildness, and Majesty, accompanies
every thing she does, as inspires those that approach her with equal
Courage and Respect. Her Duty is her Law, and her principal Care is to
please the Emperor, whose Wisdom she knows to be sufficient to govern his
Dominions, and to him she therefore leaves all Affairs. Indeed she is very
earnest with him to get Favours for those who petition her, which she
thinks a Happiness to obtain, and she bestows them in such manner as is
very affecting to the Receivers. This Princess is charitable, generous,
and magnificent. She maintains her Dignity without Conceit, and supports
her solid Piety without Ostentation. She was educated in the _Lutheran_
Religion, but abjur'd it at _Bamberg_ when she came thither in her Way to
be marry'd to the Emperor, then King of _Spain_, and is now a good
Catholic, yet without any Hatred to the Protestants; being convinc'd that
the Love of one's Neighbour is one of the Duties which God most strictly
enjoins upon Mankind, and that Charitableness and good Examples are the
best Means to reconcile those to the Church who are separated from it.
In the same sublime Sentiments of Virtue does the Empress educate the
Archduchesses her Daughters, and those young Princesses are like to make
worthy Proficients. The eldest Archduchess _Mary Theresa_ is brought up in
the agreeable Prospect of being one day Mistress of the vast Dominions
possessed by the Emperor[100]. This young Princess has very much of the
Air of the Empress her Mother; and if Heaven designs her for the
Sovereignty of the Empire, God grant she may also resemble her in her
Virtues!
The Emperor has three Sisters. The eldest is the Archduchess _Mary
Elizabeth_ Governess of the (_Austrian_) _Netherlands_; the second is
_Mary-Anne_ Queen of _Portugal_; and the third is the Archduchess _Mary
Magdalen_, who 'tis said is intended to be Governess of _Tirol_. The
intire August House of _Austria_ consists at present of the sacred Person
of the Emperor and of eight Princesses[101], of whom three are married;
and God grant it may be augmented by the Birth of a Prince; for without
setting up here for a zealous Subject, I don't think that the Houses of
_Austria_ and _Bourbon_ ought ever to be extinct, both of them having made
the Fortunes of an infinite Number of Gentlemen.
The Emperor's ordinary Pastime (when he has a Desire to unbend his Mind
from Affairs of State, to which he applies with all the Earnestness of a
Monarch that loves his People) is Hunting, or Shooting at a Mark; and the
Empress is generally a Sharer in his Diversions. His Imperial Majesty goes
sometimes also to the Riding-House, where he exercises himself in Riding:
At other times Music is his Amusement, which the Monarch not only performs
by Book, but is also a Composer; and some Years ago an Opera was acted
here of his composing. All the Actors as well as the Dancers and the
Musicians of the Orchestre were Persons of Quality. The Emperor himself
made one, and the two eldest Archduchesses his Daughters danced. The
Spectators were the Empress Regent and the Empress Dowager, and every
Actor had the Liberty of carrying two of his Kindred or intimate Friends.
Tho' their Imperial Majesties are very fond of Music they have seldom more
than two Operas in a Year, _viz._ on the Days of St. _Charles_ and St.
_Elizabeth_, and sometimes the same Operas are play'd again during the
Carnival. At this time, which is devoted to Mirth, there is a Ball at
Court, and on the Flesh-days there is commonly a great Masquerade
representing a Country-Wedding. In the Palace there is a very magnificent
Theatre, which indeed is almost the only thing there that is worth seeing,
for the Imperial Palace is so wretched a Mansion that few Monarchs are
lodged worse than the Emperor. The Furniture too is old-fashion'd and not
very rich, which is somewhat unaccountable, because the Wardrobes are full
of costly Pieces of Tapestry, stately Pictures, and other fine Goods which
probably they are restrained from making use of by the _Etiquette_. The
Emperor's Pleasure-Houses are no better than his Palace in the City. The
Castle of the _Favorita_ which is in one of the Suburbs, is a great
Building full of Turnings and Windings like the Street which it looks
into, and has more of the Appearance of a great Convent of _Capuchin_
Fryars than of the Dwelling of a Prince who is the Head of so many
Sovereigns. The Gardens are as mean as the House, and only considerable
for their Extent. _Laxembourg_ is still very much inferior to the
_Favorita_; but the Court is there no more than a Month or six Weeks,
during the Hunting of the Heron. The Ministers that are obliged to attend
the Emperor thither have Houses there, which though not very grand, are
commodious. When a Person goes to _Laxembourg_ to pay a Visit to the Court
he is under a Necessity of returning to _Vienna_ for a Bed, which is a
very great Inconveniency.
The Emperor _Joseph_ had begun a very fine House at _Schonborn_ about a
League from _Vienna_, but did not live to finish it; and the Empress
_Amelia_ to whom the Emperor gave it, instead of carrying on the Works
which her Husband had begun, lets it run to ruin; which is great pity, for
if that Building had been finish'd the Emperor wou'd not have had a
_Versailles_, but he wou'd at least have had a Mansion-House suitable to
his Dignity. 'Tis said that a new Palace is going to be built for the
Emperor; which, if true, 'twere to be wish'd that better Architects may be
employ'd in it than those who have had the Direction of the new Stables
and of St. _Charles_'s Church, which are Buildings lately erected with
very great Expence, but without any Taste. The Stables are a Range of
Buildings of a vast Length, divided into seven Pavilions which appear at
first sight to be so many different Houses. The middlemost Pavilion which
is design'd to lodge the Master of the Horse is much higher than the other
six, which sink gradually on the two sides. Nor are the inner Rooms better
contriv'd; for the Horses stand all in one Row, and the Stable is so
narrow withal, that one is every Minute in danger from the Horses Heels;
which is purely owing to the Indiscretion of the Architect, who having
ground enough and to spare might for the same Expence have made something
grand and noble.
Whether the same Architect that built the Stables had the Direction
likewise of St. _Charles_'s Church, is what I know not; but if they are
two different Men their Head-pieces are very much alike. This Church would
perhaps have been admir'd in the Days of the _Goths_, but in so refined an
Age as the present, one cannot look on it without being sorry for the Sums
of Money laid out in it.
This bad Taste as to Buildings prevails too much at _Vienna_, not but that
there are Hotels and even Palaces in which the Rules of Architecture are
observ'd, but then the Builders are got into such a way of ornamenting and
charging their Houses with Sculpture as is altogether contrary to the
noble Simplicity of the ancient Architecture. The Palace of Prince
_Eugene_ of _Savoy_ is stately, but situate in a narrow Street with a very
little Court before it. The Stair-case is very well contriv'd were it not
too much confin'd. The Apartments of the first Story are as well laid out
as the Ground wou'd admit of. We enter first into a spacious Salon adorn'd
with great Pictures representing the chief Victories of Prince _Eugene_
over the _French_ and the _Turks_. In the two Rooms next to this are very
rich Hangings wherein the Maker _Devos_ at _Brussels_ has very correctly
delineated the whole Military Science. The Bed-chamber beyond that has a
Set of Furniture of green Velvet richly embroider'd with Gold and Silk. In
the same Room there is a Lustre of Rock Crystal which is said to have cost
40,000 Florins. All the other Furniture is extraordinary magnificent, and
wou'd be cry'd up at _Paris_ it self, where it must be allow'd a Taste for
fine Furniture prevails more than any where.
The Palace of _Lichtenstein_ is bigger than that of _Savoy_, and not less
magnificent. 'Tis worth seeing were it only for its Paintings. I pass over
the Hotels of _Schwartzenberg_, _Daun_, _Diedrichstein_, _Harrach_, and
several other noble Edifices, lest my Letter shou'd swell into a Volume.
The Palaces of the Suburbs are infinitely more grand than those of the
City, and they have both Court-yards and Gardens. The most noble are the
Palaces of _Trautsheim_, _Rofrano_, _Schwartzenberg_, _Altheim_, and
_Eugene_ of _Savoy_. This last especially is a superb Structure with
magnificent Gardens, a fine Orangery, and a Menagery stor'd with the most
uncommon Creatures that the four Parts of the World can furnish. 'Tis in
this fine great House that Prince _Eugene_ passes the beautiful Season of
the Year. There is not so fine a Sight as an Assembly at this Prince's
House, for not only the outer Court, in which there's a fine Piece of
Water, but the Gardens are illuminated by an infinite Number of Lanthorns
made in form of a Bowl of extraordinary white Glass, which cast a very
great Light and make a glorious appearance. The Assembles at this Prince's
House are always very numerous; for his Birth, Employments and Interest,
draw a great Court to him.
Prince _Eugene_ is of a middling Stature, and well made. His Air is
extremely serious, and his Deportment grave and reserv'd; but
notwithstanding that Reservedness he is a hearty Friend to his Adherents.
He is a thorough Judge of Merit, and loves to distinguish it. He is
perfectly genteel and civil, very polite to the Ladies, respectful and
submissive to his Lord and Master, but without Flattery or Servility. He
is generous and noble in every thing excepting his Apparel. He is an Enemy
to Ostentation, Ceremonies, and Constraint. In his youthful Days he lov'd
Pleasures, but he abandon'd them as soon as he was animated with a Thirst
for Glory. He was born in _France_, but left that Kingdom in 1683, out of
disgust that he was no more taken notice of, and came to _Vienna_ just
before the _Turks_ laid siege to it. He made the Campaign as a Volunteer,
and distinguish'd himself in such a manner that the Emperor _Leopold_ gave
him in _December_ following that Regiment of Dragoons which still goes by
his Name. When the Siege of _Vienna_ was rais'd, he serv'd in _Hungary_
under Duke _Charles_ of _Lorrain_, and _Maximilian-Emanuel_ Elector of
_Bavaria_. The first time that he obtain'd the Command of the Imperial
Army was in 1697, when he began with the Victory at _Zenta_ whereby 22,000
_Turks_ lost their Lives; a Loss which they could not recover, and which
put them upon suing for the Peace that was granted to them at _Carlowitz_
in 1699. The Prince afterwards commanded in _Italy_, _Germany_,
_Flanders_, and lastly in _Hungary_; and wherever he went Conquest
attended him. To give you a Detail of his Achievements would be to
anticipate the _History_ which is to immortalize them, and to which you
will not take it ill if I refer you. As to the Dignities and great
Employments of this Prince, he is Chief Counsellor of the Council of
Conferences; President of the Aulic Council of War; Commander in Chief or
Lieutenant-General of the Armies of the Emperor and Empire; his Imperial
Majesty's Vicar-General in _Italy_; Colonel of a Regiment of Dragoons; and
Knight of the Golden Fleece. All his Employments may be worth about
300,000 Florins a year to him. Besides this, he has a considerable Estate
in _Hungary_ and in the Neighbourhood of _Vienna_, which brings him in
about 100,000 Florins _per Ann._ more. He holds those Lands by the
Emperor's Bounty who gave them to him as a Reward for his important
Services.[102]
The Marshal Count _Guido Staremberg_ is one of those Gentlemen also who
deserve particular respect for their Virtue. He is descended of a Family
which has given great Generals and wise Ministers to the Emperors of the
_Austrian_ Family, and has supported the Glory of his Ancestors in a
signal manner; _Hungary_, _Italy_, and _Spain_, have been Witnesses of
Bravery and consummate Wisdom in the Art of commanding Armies, and have
admir'd him the more because they saw him always gaining Victories with
Armies ill paid, destitute of all Necessaries, and very much inferior to
his Enemies. This General enter'd very young into the Service in quality
of an Ensign, and advanc'd himself by degrees. He was made
Lieutenant-Colonel a little before the _Turks_ Undertaking against
_Vienna_, and while it was besieg'd, serv'd as Adjutant to his Cousin
_Ernest-Rudiger_ Count _de Staremberg_, the Defender of _Vienna_. This
Count _Guido_, after having been a few years in the Service, was preferr'd
to the Regiment of Foot of which he is still Colonel. When he was very
young he was made Great _Commander_ of the _Teutonic_ Order. I do not
mention his Exploits to you, because they are so much celebrated by Fame
that you cannot but know them. This General, tho' very much advanc'd in
years, retains all his juvenile Ardor, and wou'd still be very capable of
commanding.
Having mention'd two of the Emperor's greatest Generals you will not be
sorry, I fancy, if I shou'd give you some Account also of his chief
Ministers. They are five in Number, and are call'd _Counsellors of the
Conferences_. Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ is the first Counsellor, but
without the Title of Prime Minister, that being a Dignity not known at the
Imperial Court.