Traveller's Attention, I set out the same Day for FULDE, where I arrived
the next. You know, that this City is the Capital of the Principality of
_Fulde_, the Sovereign of which is an Abbot, a Prince of the Empire, and
Chancellor to the Empress. The present Sovereign is _Adolphus_ Baron of
_Bahlberg_, who was chose by the Chapter of the Abbey Church in 1726, in
the room of _Constantine_ Baron of _Buthler_, who died suddenly, and not
without suspicion of Poison. _Fulde_ is a dirty little Town open on all
sides, and has nothing remarkable but the Abbey Church, and the Prince's
Palace, which are two Freestone Buildings that make a very grand
Appearance. The Apartments of the Palace are very richly furnish'd. The
last Abbot being a Man of good Understanding and great Views, caused this
Palace to be so adorn'd as to demonstrate the Wealth of the Abbey.
The Prince Abbot has a Grand Marshal, a Master of the Horse, a Marshal of
the Court, several Privy and Aulic Counsellors, a Number of Gentlemen, a
Company of Horse-Guards well cloathed and well mounted, a Regiment of Foot
Guards, eight Pages, a Number of Footmen, and several Sets of Horses. He
gives a rich Livery, and in a word, his Houshold is spruce and
magnificent. There are very few Sovereigns in _Germany_ whose Table is
better served; for there is plenty of every thing, particularly delicious
Wines, of which they tipple to such Excess that in a very little time they
are not capable of distinguishing their Liquor. There are, I believe, the
hardest Drinkers here in _Europe_; and I being on the other hand but a
Milksop, thought that _Fulde_ was not a Country for me to pitch my Tent
in. I dined with the Prince, went home drunk to my Quarters, slept sound,
and next day set out for _Wurtzbourg_, where I am happily arriv'd after
having gone through such horrible bad Ways, and met with such dismal
Lodging, that I wish my Enemies were but condemned to travel this Road
four times a Year.
Here I make myself amends for the Mortification which I met with coming
hither. WURTZBOURG is a considerable City though not very large. The
_Main_ divides it into two Parts. It is the Residence of the Prince Bishop
of _Wurtzbourg_ Duke of _Franconia_. The Person who now enjoys that great
Dignity is _Christopher-Francis de Houtten_[80]. He was elected by the
Chapter to succeed _John Philip Francis_ Count de _Schonborn_, who was one
of the greatest and most magnificent Prelates that perhaps ever fill'd the
Episcopal See of _Wurtzbourg_. This Prince, in the five Years time that he
has been Bishop, has done more things for the Embellishment of
_Wurtzbourg_ than ten of his Predecessors put together. He has furnished
one Part of the Town with new Fortifications, and has laid the Basis of a
stately Palace, which will be one of the greatest, the compleatest and
most regular Fabrics that we have in _Germany_; he having for that end
consulted the most skilful Architects, and sent for the most celebrated
Sculptors from _Italy_. As he was a passionate Admirer of the Arts and
Sciences, and perfectly understood them, especially Architecture; he chose
the best Parts of all the Designs that were presented to him, and from
them he compos'd the Plan of the Work, which was executed with such
diligence that in four Years time two thirds of the Building were rooft.
His unexpected Death put a stop for a while to this Great Work. The
present Bishop took it in hand again, but after having made considerable
Alterations in those great and magnificent Projects, the Work advances so
slowly that when it will be finished no body knows.
The deceased Bishop _Schonborn_ has also caused a Chapel to be built near
the Metropolitan Church, which he has lined with very uncommon Marble
brought for the purpose from _Italy_ at a very great Expence. Brass,
Gilding, and every thing that can render a Chapel superb, has been
employed in it in a very curious manner. This stately Edifice is as yet
imperfect, and will require great Sums to finish it. As it was designed
for the Burial-Place of the Bishop and his Family, it is to be presum'd
that the House of _Schonborn_, now so rich and so powerful, will not
suffer a Monument to lie unfinish'd which is to perpetuate the remembrance
of its Grandeur.
The Great Hospital founded by a Bishop whose Name was _Julius_, is worth
seeing. 'Tis a stately Building, which looks more like the Palace of a
Prince than a Hospital. Four hundred Persons of both Sexes are maintained
in it. There are two fine Halls which are particularly made use of upon
_Holy Thursday_. In the one, the Bishop performs the Ceremony of washing
the Feet of the Poor, who are afterwards sumptuously feasted in it; and in
the other, he regales his Chapter, and all his Family.
The Castle stands upon an Eminence on the other side of the River which we
pass over a Stone Bridge, adorn'd like that of St. _Angelo_ at _Rome_,
with twelve fine Statues representing so many Saints. This Castle is a
strong Place, and entirely commands the Town. The Form of it is quite
irregular, it consisting of several Buildings erected by several Bishops.
Those Prelates always liv'd in it, till the last, who, while he was
building a new Palace in the Town, lodged in a neighbouring Gentleman's
House, from whence he could see how the Work went on. The Apartments of
the old Castle are spacious and noble. I found in them all that Furniture
with which they were adorn'd for the Reception of the Archduchess
_Mary-Elizabeth_, when that Princess came to _Wurtzbourg_ in her way to
the Government of the _Netherlands_. I have not seen richer Furniture at
the Palace of any Prince of the Empire.
In this Castle there are two things that are well worth seeing; the
Arsenal and the Vault; the one full of all the Stores invented by _Mars_
and _Bellona_, for the Destruction of Mankind, and the other furnish'd
with every thing to satiate the Thirst of an Army of Drunkards. If ever
you come hither and should have the Curiosity to visit these Magazines of
_Mars_ and _Bacchus_, I advise you to begin with the Arsenal, especially
if you can get some Courtier to go with you; for these Gentlemen, tho'
very civil, think, that the least thing which a Foreigner ought to do for
them is to forfeit his Reason to them in this Vault. I am sure, I speak by
dear Experience. Three days ago I told the Bishop that I had a mind to see
the Castle. This Prince was so complaisant as to order one of his
Gentlemen to go with me. My honest Companion fearing, 'tis like, that a
Conversation _tete-a-tete_ would be too melancholy, chose two Topers to
bear us Company, whom _Silenus_ would not have disown'd for his Children.
Being a stranger to the Virtues for which those Gentlemen were eminent, I
put my self entirely under their Direction without the least Apprehension
of my Misfortune. When they had shewed me the Apartments, the Arsenal,
Fortifications, and every thing, they carried me at last into the Vault,
which I found illuminated like a Chapel wherein I was to lie in State; and
indeed, my Funeral Obsequies were perform'd in Pomp, for the Glasses
served instead of Bells, and Torrents of Wine gush'd out instead of
Tears: At length, after the Service was over, two of the Prince's
_Heydukes_ carry'd me to a Coach, and from thence to Bed; that was my
Tomb. Yesterday I rose again, but scarce know at this Moment whether I am
quite come to myself. 'Tis true that this does not give me much Concern,
for ever since I have been here, I have followed the laudable Custom of
getting drunk twice a day. You perceive that I am improv'd by my Travels,
and that I am apt enough to learn the pretty Manners of the Countries
where I make any Stay. I fancy that you will find me very much alter'd for
the better. There is nothing that accomplishes a Man so much as
travelling; judge you of this by the Life which I lead here.
I rise at ten o'clock, my Lungs very much inflam'd with the Wine I drank
the Night before: I take a large Dose of Tea, dress myself, and then go to
make my Compliments to the Bishop. The Baron _de Pechtelsheim_ the Marshal
of the Court invites me to dine with the Prince: He promises, nay, and
sometimes swears too that I shall not drink. At Noon we sit down to Table.
The Bishop does me the honour to drink two or three Healths to me. The
Baron _de Zobel_, Master of the Horse, and the Baron _de Pechtelsheim_,
toast the same number to me, and I am under a necessity of drinking to no
less than fourteen Persons at the Table; so that I am drown'd in Liquor
before I have din'd. When the Company rises, I wait on the Prince to his
Chamber-Door, where he retires, and I think to do the same, but I find an
Embargo put upon me in the Antichamber by the Master of the Horse, and the
Marshal of the Court, who with great Bumpers in their Hands drink the
Prince's Health to me, and _Prosperity for ever to the most laudable
Chapter of +Wurtzbourg+_. I protest to them that I am the Bishop's most
humble Servant, and that I have a very great Veneration for the most
laudable Chapter, but that to drink their Healths wou'd destroy mine, and
therefore I beg they wou'd excuse my pledging them; but I may as well talk
to the Wind; these two Healths must be drank, or I shall be reckon'd no
Friend to the Prince and his Chapter. If this were all my Task I shou'd be
well off; but then comes M. _de Zobel_, one of the most intrepid Carousers
of the Age, who squeezes me by the Hand, and with an Air and Tone of
perfect Cordiality, says to me, _You love our Prince so well that you
can't refuse drinking to the Prosperity of the illustrious Family of
+Houtten+_. And when he has made this moving Speech, he takes off a great
Glass to witness his Zeal for the Life of his Master; after which an
officious _Heyduke_ brings me a Glass, and being infected with the Goust
that prevails at this Court, assures me that this Wine cannot possibly do
me Harm, because 'tis the very same that the Prince drinks. By a
Persuasion, founded on so just an Inference, I have the Courage to venture
on t'other Glass, which is no sooner drank but I reel, and can drink no
more; when in order to finish me M. _de Pechtelsheim_, one of the
honestest Gentlemen living, but the staunchest Wine-bibber that I know,
accosts me with a Smile and says, _Come_, dear Baron, _one Glass more to
better Acquaintance_. I conjure him to give me Quarter, but he embraces
me, kisses me, and calls me _Herr Bruder_, (his dear Brother.) How can a
Man withstand such tender Compliments! At last I put myself in a fit
Posture to run away; I sneak off, steal down the Steps as well as I can,
and squeeze myself into a Sedan which carries me home; where my People
drag me out like a dead Corpse, and fling me on a Bed, as if the next
thing was to lay me out. I sleep three or four hours, awake in a perfect
Maze, put myself to rights again, and prepare to make Visits, or to
receive them; but whichsoever I do, I presently find my self in such a
pickle again, that I cannot walk alone. There's no such thing as
Conversation here betwixt one Friend and another without the Bottle; so
that I am tempted to think the Inhabitants of this City are descended from
_Silenus_, and that the old Sot left them the Faculty of hard drinking for
a Legacy, as St. _Hubert_ bequeath'd to his Family the power of curing a
Frenzy.
I din'd yesterday with the Reverend the _Scots Benedictine_ Fryars, who
gave me a hearty Welcome, and an excellent sort of Liquor call'd _Stein
Wein_, or Stone-Wine, probably because it grows on a Rock; which is the
only time that I have departed from the Regimen I keep to here, I mean
that I was not drunk. The House of these _Benedictines_ is one of the five
Houses which form a sort of a Republic in their Order, and which, without
depending on their General, chuse a President out of their number who has
the direction of all their Affairs. These five Houses are in five
different Towns, _viz._ at _Vienna_ in _Austria_, at _Ratisbon_,
_Wurtzbourg_, at _Doway_ in _Flanders_, and at _Dieulegarde_, near
_Pont-a-Mousson_ in _Lorrain_.
These _Benedictines_ put me in mind of the Reverend Fathers the _Jesuits_,
who have a very fine House in this City: These are they who are Directors
of the University, and instruct the Youth with a Zeal which cannot but
confound their Enemies.
The Prince and Bishop lives in very great Splendor, and is one of the most
powerful of our Spiritual Sovereigns. His Dominion includes seventy
Bailywics, and his Country is the finest and fruitfullest in _Germany_.
The only thing that is scarce here is Money, and this is owing to their
want of Trade, and to the great number of Monks and Priests who ingross
all to themselves. The Bishop has 50000 Crowns a-year for his Privy-Purse.
The Chamber is oblig'd to maintain him in every thing. It furnishes his
Wardrobe, his Table, and pays his Houshold and his Troops, which actually
consist of 3500 Men, who are commanded by General _Eib_, the Governour of
_Wurtzbourg_. In time of War the Bishop has no less than 10000.
The Court is numerous, and I can assure you that upon Festival-Days 'tis
very magnificent. On St. _Quilian_'s Day, who is the Patron of
_Wurtzbourg_ and _Franconia_, the Bishop repairs with a great Train to the
Metropolitan Church. Six of the Bishop's Coaches, drawn each by six
Horses, begin the March, attended by twenty four Footmen and sixteen
Pages; and above fourscore Gentlemen richly dress'd walk before the
Bishop's Coach, guarded by two Files of Halbardiers. The Master of the
Horse and the Marshal of the Court walk by the sides of the Coach, the
latter bearing the Sword of the Duke of _Franconia_ with the Point
uppermost; and the Coach is surrounded by _Heydukes_, and followed by a
company of Life-Guards.
The Bishop of _Wurtzbourg_ has one Prerogative which the other Bishops
have not; for while he officiates, his Great Marshal bears the Sword of
the Duke of _Franconia_ naked and upright till the Consecration of the
Elements, and then he puts it up in the Scabbard, and carries it before
the Prince with the Point downwards; which is a Distinction I take to be
altogether as extraordinary as that of the Abbot and Count _de Gemblours_,
the first Nobleman of the States of _Brabant_, who has the Privilege of
celebrating Mass with his Boots and Spurs on.
The Bishop's ordinary Expence is perfectly suitable to the Dignity of a
great Prince; and his Table, which is commonly spread for eighteen
Guests, is serv'd with a Magnificence to the degree of Profusion; not that
this Prince affects Pomp, but because he is oblig'd to conform to the
antient establish'd Customs of his Court. This Prelate gives very great
Application to the Affairs of his Government, for which purpose he rises
early in the Morning: When he is dress'd he spends some time in Prayer,
and then confers with his Ministers, or with the Chiefs of the several
Tribunals. At ten o'clock he hears Mass, and afterwards goes to Council:
At Noon he dines, and after having sate an Hour and an half at Table, he
retires, and spends the Evening with his Family, which is numerous, and
compos'd of Persons of Worth. In Carnival-time he makes great
Entertainments twice or thrice a week for all the Nobility of
_Wurtzbourg_, and there is sometimes a Ball and even Masquerades at Court.
In the Winter-time Persons of Rank have Assemblies for Gaming; and during
the Carnival there's a Ball three times a week in a House kept by the
Undertaker, at which they bespeak Places beforehand, and where Foreigners
are admitted _gratis_. All this wou'd be pretty enough if the Company was
not sometimes disturb'd by People in Liquor, tho' 'tis true that such are
not very chagrining to the Natives, who are us'd to such Sights; and the
very Ladies, who elsewhere fly such Company, do not seem to have a staunch
Aversion to them. Foreigners have reason to applaud the Civilities both of
the Prince and his Courtiers. As for my own part I am infinitely oblig'd
for the Respect they have been pleas'd to shew to me. The Prince heaps his
Favours on me, and the Nobility their Courtesies. If it were not that one
is forc'd to drink hard, I shou'd like the Town very well. Two Days hence
I shall set out for _Anspach_, and from thence I shall go by the way of
_Nuremberg_ and _Bareith_ to _Prague_. I shall write to you by the very
first Opportunity: Mean time I am, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER IX.
_SIR_, _Anspach, Sept. 29, 1729._
I came in one day from _Wurtzbourg_ to ANSPACH, which is twelve Miles, and
pass'd thro' two or three little Towns not worth naming. _Anspach_ is the
Capital of the Margraviate so call'd, and the Residence of the Margrave of
_Brandenbourg_, Chief of the second Branch of that Family settled in
_Franconia_. 'Tis a small but pretty Town, and very well built. It has no
Fortifications, and is only shut in by Walls surrounded with Walks which
form a Bulwark. The Prince has a large Castle or Palace building here,
which when finish'd will be magnificent. The late Margrave, Father of the
present, had begun to build it according to the Models of an _Italian_
Architect; but as he did nothing to answer the Opinion conceiv'd by the
_Germans_ that the _Italians_ are the best Architects in the World,
perhaps because he was oblig'd to patch up old Walls for the sake of some
Rooms: Madame the Margravine Regent, Mother of the young Margrave,
continued what her Husband began, but changed the Architect, and makes use
of the Baron _de Zochau_ to carry on those Works; who, tho' oblig'd to
conform to what was done by the _Italian_, has succeeded much better than
that Foreigner. Madame the Margravine Regent has likewise caus'd some
noble Gardens to be laid out; and this Princess spares no Cost for
embellishing the Town of _Anspach_.
The Margravine Regent[81] is of the Family of _Wurtenberg_, and may be
compar'd for Beauty with the finest Princesses in the World. Being left a
Widow at twenty nine Years of Age, she renounc'd all Pleasures, and
thought of nothing but the Education of her Son, and the Affairs of her
Regency; both of which Duties this Princess discharges in such a manner
that her Subjects bless her Government, and the young Margrave cannot but
have very great Obligations to her.
Madame the Margravine, besides a charming Person, has a sparkling Wit and
a solid Judgment, which she has taken care to cultivate by great reading,
and maintains by a Piety and Charity truly Christian. There is in all her
Actions such Politeness, and so much Good-nature, as gain her the hearts
of all Persons. In fine, without flattering this Princess, I can assure
you that her Life is a Pattern of Virtue. She is wean'd from all the
Vanities of the Age; she wears neither Gold nor Lace, and has given her
Diamonds, which were of very great value, to her Son. She keeps so retir'd
to her Apartment, that she is never seen but at Church, at Table, or when
she gives Audience; which she never refuses to any body unless when she is
tir'd. She is incessantly employ'd, and takes delight in it. She is her
own Minister, and her Counsellors are only the Executioners of her Orders.
'Tis pity that _Germany_ is so soon like to lose a Princess who does her
Country so much Honour: The Margravine is in so declining a Condition
that there's no hopes of her Recovery. The Physicians have actually told
her so; but the Princess, far from being terrify'd at the sad Tidings,
receiv'd it like a Christian Heroine: _God gave me my Life_, said she to
her Physicians, _he will take it from me when he pleases, his Will be
done_. She continues to live in the way she always did; and the Approach
of Death, which she sees advancing to her with slow Pace, gives her no
Trouble nor Tremor; but submitting to the Decrees of Providence, she waits
with Resignation for that awful Moment which often makes the stoutest
Hearts tremble.
The young Margrave is actually at _Paris_, so that I cou'd have given you
no manner of Account of this Prince, if I had not had the Honour to see
him two Years ago. He was born the 12th of _May_, 1712. He is a handsome,
comely, lively Man, has an extraordinary Memory, and if Age matures his
Understanding, bids fair to be one day a Prince of a sublime Genius. His
Governour was M. _de Bremer_, a Gentleman of _Livonia_; and his Præceptor
M. _Neukirch_[82], celebrated for several Essays in Poetry.
Notwithstanding the Reform which Madame the Margravine made in her Court
when she came to the Regency, 'tis still very numerous. The Count _de
Castel_ is the first Man at this Court, and has the Title of Lord Steward.
His Lady commonly attends Madame the Margravine, and does the Offices of
Lady of Honour without affecting the Title. M. _de Bremer_, the Baron _de
Seckendorf_, and the Baron _de Zochau_, are Privy Counsellors; and the
Baron _de Kinsberg_ is Marshal of the Court. As to the Troops the
Margravine Regent only keeps up such a number as is necessary to furnish
her Quota to the Empire, and to guard her Person.
The Margraviate of _Anspach_ is very much interspersed with Woods, which
makes it a fine Country for Hunting. 'Tis said that it brings in 500000
Crowns every Year to its Sovereign. The Principal Towns are _Anspach_ and
_Schwabach_, in which Manufactures are erected that do great Prejudice to
the City of _Nuremberg_.
I think I ought not to omit acquainting you with two things which are
fondly believ'd by the common People, and which the Landlord of the House
where I quarter'd affirm'd to me to be Facts. The one is, that there are
no Rats in all the Country of _Anspach_, since one of the Family of the
Rat-killing St. _Hubert_ pass'd that way. The other is of the same Tenor,
and admitted for a certain Truth by every Subject in the Dominions of the
House of _Brandenbourg_, _viz._ When any one of this Family dies, whether
Prince or Princess, a Woman in White always appears just before in the
Palace. I know not whether you ever heard any thing concerning this
Prophetess of Ill Luck. Be that as it will, the Story which is told of her
is this:
_Joachim_ II. Elector of _Brandenbourg_, having a mind to enlarge his
Palace at _Berlin_, wanted to buy in several Houses; but an old Woman, the
Owner of one of those Houses, resolv'd not to sell it to him upon any
Terms. The Elector finding her so obstinate sent her the Purchase-Money
and turn'd her out of it; upon which the old Woman swore in a Rage that
she wou'd be an eternal Plague to _Joachim_ and his Posterity. They
pretend that the good Lady keeps her Word, and that she haunts all the
Palaces of the _Brandenbourg_ Family. Yet I never heard any body at
_Berlin_ say they had ever seen her there, tho' that is the Place where
she ought naturally to have taken up her head Quarters. My Landlord added
to these fine Stories that the Margravine would not die yet a while,
because the Woman in White had not yet appear'd to any body at Court.
_I am_, &c.
[Illustration]
LETTER X.
_SIR_, _Carlsbad, October 10, 1729._
When I took leave of the Court of _Anspach_, I was honour'd with a
precious mark of the Margravine's Goodness, _viz._ a weighty Gold Medal;
and now I am again upon my Journey. I was not many hours in travelling
from _Anspach_ to _Nuremberg_, thro' a Country extremely sandy, but very
well cultivated, and interspers'd with considerable Villages which in our
Country wou'd be reckon'd Towns.