each side, which brought me to the Frontiers of the County. I afterwards
fell into very bad Roads all the way to _Leipsic_, where I stay'd but a
very few Hours, and proceeded the same day to MERSEBOURG. This City was
much more considerable formerly than now. It was the See of a Bishop, but
was seculariz'd by the Treaty of _Passaw_ in favour of the House of
_Saxony_. Its Situation is charming, with Gardens and Meadows all round
it, and its Walls are wash'd by the River _Sala_. The great Church which
was formerly a Cathedral is a _Gothic_ Building, where there is a stately
Tomb of the Emperor _Rodolph_ of _Schwartzbourg_, who died after he had
lost one Hand in a Battle he fought with the Emperor _Henry_ IV. with whom
he was Competitor. This Prince a few Moments before he expir'd, took up
his Hand that was cut off, and holding it up to those who were about him,
said to them, _Behold this Hand; 'tis the same that I lifted up when I
promis'd Faith and Allegiance to my Emperor and Lord; but by your Advice
and Instigation I have not kept my Promise to him, for which you will one
day give an account to God._ Some time after this unfortunate Prince's
Death, the Emperor _Henry_ IV. coming to _Mersebourg_ and taking a view of
_Rodolphus's_ Tomb, of which he admir'd the Magnificence, certain
Flatterers told him that the Tomb ought to be destroy'd as too pompous for
a Rebel; but the Emperor scorning such a pitiful Revenge, made answer,
_Wou'd to God that all my Enemies were thus pompously interr'd_.
The City of _Mersebourg_ is the Residence of a Duke of the House of
_Saxony_, who is Sovereign of all the Country that formerly constituted
the Bishoprick, which enables him to keep a splendid Court[71]. The next
day after my Arrival I had the Honour to pay him my Compliments, and had a
very satisfactory Reception. The Prince conducted me into a Hall which was
hung with Bass-Viols from the Bottom to the Top, in the same manner as an
Arsenal is with Helmets and Breast-Plates. In the middle of the Hall there
was a Viol which was distinguish'd from the rest. It reach'd up to the
very Cieling, and there was a Ladder set, which such as had the Curiosity
to take a particular View of it were oblig'd to ascend, for surely it was
the most stately Instrument of the kind that ever was made. The Duke made
me take particular notice of it, and was pleas'd with the Admiration which
I express'd of it. He regal'd me also with some Airs upon another
Bass-Viol which he call'd his _Favorite_, and which was but one fourth
part as big as the other.
After this Concert I din'd with the Duke and Duchess. This Princess is the
Daughter of the late Prince of _Nassau-Idstein_, than whom there cannot be
a more amiable Lady. She has an Air of Mildness, Goodness and Prudence
diffused over all her Features; and her Wit is of the same Stamp as her
Beauty, amiable without Parade and Ostentation. Some of her Courtiers
assur'd me, that her Mind is as charming as her Person. If that be true,
which I am loth to doubt of, this Princess deserves a more splendid
Fortune than what she enjoys.
After Dinner, I was one at a Match of Quadrille with the Duchess, and at
night there was dancing, and I never saw any body dance with a better
Grace than this Princess. The Ball held till the Night was far advanced,
when there was a grand Supper, which was no sooner over than I took leave
of the Duke and Duchess and retir'd to my Quarters, with a design to set
out in a few Hours and proceed in my Journey. At my Lodging I found a
Gentleman from the Duke, who said to me, 'That as he was passing by he saw
my Men packing up my things, and that therefore he came in purely to wish
me a good Journey. He assured me that he had a secret Kindness for me;
that I might safely take his Word; that he was Sincerity it self; and that
he wish'd 500000 Devils might twist his Neck if he was not heartily my
Friend: And to give you proofs of it, _said he_, I will treat you with
some Trifle, such as a Dram of Anniseed, Orange-Water, or Ratasia. Upon my
word my Apothecary has what is choice good; he lives but at the end of the
Street; Come, I will shew you the way to his House.'
While he harangu'd me in this manner he reel'd, being so drunk that he
cou'd not stand. I thank'd him therefore for his Love, and told him that I
did not drink Drams, but that if he had a mind to any Liquor of that sort,
I would send for some for him; and I bid my Landlord fetch it. The
Apothecary, as ill luck would have it, was not yet got up. 'Soho, here,
_said my new Friend_, there is nothing to drink but Aquavitæ; here,
Landlord, a Glass of Brandy, Pipes and Tobacco. You must have something,
_said he_, to be doing.' Every thing he call'd for being brought, my
Gentleman drank two or three Glasses of Brandy, and smoak'd as many Pipes
of Tobacco. I hoped to see him tumble down, and by consequence to get rid
of him, when he took it into his head to call for some Dishes of Tea that
I had order'd to be made for my self, and which made him so sober that he
recover'd his Reason. I laid hold of this happy Interval (for I heard him
calling out for Brandy, which I apprehended would occasion a Relapse) and
talk'd to him about his Master's Bass-Viols; upon which, without much
Intreaty, he said to me, 'You know, Sir, that every Man almost has his
particular Whim, Princes as well as private Persons. One is an Admirer of
Magnificence, another of Troops, and a third of Mistresses. As for my
august Master, his Fancy runs only on Bass-Viols, and whoever sollicits
him for an Employment or any other Favour, can't do better than to
accommodate his Arsenal with one of these Instruments. That very large
one, _said he_, which you saw in the Room where all his Viols are, was
presented to him by one who wanted to be a Privy-Counsellor; his Petition
was granted, and had he ask'd for any thing else he might have had it.'
This officious Gentleman told me a great many other Particulars which let
me into the very Chronicle of the Court of _Mersebourg_; but I don't
trouble you with it, because the Truth is not to be told at all times.
My Equipage being ready, I set out for NAUMBOURG, where I arrived at Noon.
This City was formerly the See of a Bishop. Its ancient Cathedral is still
standing, and tho' _Lutheran_, has a Chapter and Canons who must prove
their Nobility both by the Father's side and Mother's side, by sixteen
Descents. When this Bishoprick was seculariz'd it was said that no
Catholic Prince could ever be possess'd of this State. Therefore when the
last Duke of _Saxe-Zeits_, Administrator of _Naumbourg_, turn'd Catholic,
the King of _Poland_ as eldest of the _Saxon_ Family and Executor of the
_Pacta_ or Conventions made between the Princes of that Family, took
possession of _Naumbourg_. The Duke's being reconciled to the _Lutheran_
Communion was to no purpose, the King did not restore his Dominions to
him, but still possesses them, tho' he is more a Catholic than the Duke of
_Zeits_ perhaps ever was. You know that this Prince has left a Nephew who
wou'd have been his Heir, if he had not been a Catholic and a Priest. This
is the Prince who, I acquainted you from _Dresden_, was Bishop of
_Konigsgratz_ in _Bohemia_. He was born a _Lutheran_, as are all those of
his Family. His Uncle the Cardinal of _Saxe_, Brother to the Duke of
_Zeits_, made him embrace the Roman Catholic Religion when he was very
young, and afterwards persuaded him to enter into Ecclesiastical Orders,
by which step he deprived his Nephew of the glorious Prerogative of being
a Sovereign Prince, and transferred his Rights to the King of _Poland_
his distant Cousin.
_Naumbourg_ is famous for its Fairs, which next to those of _Leipsic_, are
the most considerable in _Saxony_. The Suburbs of this City are almost all
Vineyards; but why, I know not, for the Wine is so detestably bad, that
they give it away in a manner for nothing.
Finding nothing at _Naumbourg_ which was worth my while to stay there for,
I only chang'd Horses and came hither. As one approaches this Place, we
meet with Corn-Fields and Hop-Grounds instead of Vines, and the Country
rises into Hills, so that one does not see the Town of WEIMAR till we are
just upon it. The City, which is not more considerable than _Naumbourg_,
is the Residence of the Duke of _Saxe-Weimar_, who has a Palace here which
does not want for Magnificence, and tho' unfinish'd, has an air of
Grandeur. The Connoisseurs in Architecture highly extol the grand
Stair-Case there, which two Persons may ascend and descend at the same
time without meeting one another, and yet always keeping each other in
view. It consists of two Flights of Stairs upon one Spindle, laid one over
the other in the same Well of a square Form. The Curious who have observ'd
it, admire it, because there are few such to be seen.
The great Hall which is an oval, is beautiful, but not lightsome enough.
There are the Pictures of all the Dukes of _Saxe-Weimar_ at full length,
from the first Duke that ever was down to the Father of the present. They
are all drawn on Horseback, and done by no mean Hand.
In the same Palace is the Duke's Library, which tho' not very large,
consists of sundry scarce Books. 'Tis open twice a week, when the Curious
are not only permitted to peruse them, but even to borrow them, upon
leaving a Note with the Librarian.
The Duke of _Weimar_ spends very little Time in his Capital, but commonly
resides at a Seat which he has caus'd to be built about a League out of
Town. He has given it the Name of _Belle-Vue_, because of the fine
Prospect which it commands from the Apartments of the first Story. The
House is small and not very commodious, so that the chief Beauty of it is
its Situation, which is very charming. The Gardens which are begun upon
very good Plans will be beautiful when finish'd, as well as the
Pheasant-Walk and Menagerie where there are Turkeys and all sorts of Fowl.
The Duke of _Weimar's_ Name is _Ernest-Augustus_: He is the eldest of the
_Ernestine_ Branch which lost the Electorate when _Charles_ V. was
Emperor. He marry'd a Princess of _Anhalt-Cothen_, who I have been told,
was a Lady of distinguish'd Merit. She died and left him a Son and three
Daughters.
The young Prince is about ten Years of age[72]. He can neither hear nor
pronounce well, and is withal of a very tender Constitution. The
Physicians say it signifies nothing, and that as he grows up he will
acquire a Freedom of Speech. But I question it, and am apt to think rather
that those Disciples of _Æsculapius_ will send him into the other World.
The only Hopes of any Male Issue of _Weimar_ are founded upon this Child.
The Duke of _Saxe-Eysenach_ who is the next a-kin has no Children; so that
the Dominions of _Weimar_ and _Eysenach_ too are ready to devolve to the
Family of _Saxe-Gotha_. The Duke of _Weimar's_ Subjects teaze him very
much to marry, but the Prince does not seem to be in a Humour to satisfy
them; for I have often heard him say that he can't bear the mention of
Marriage.
No body presumes to go to _Belle-Vue_ without being sent for, except only
on _Mondays_ when poor People are permitted to go thither with their
Petitions which they deliver to the Secretary, and he gives them to the
Duke. Persons of Quality, whether Foreigners or others, that have a mind
to speak with the Duke, apply for it to the Marshal of the Court, but are
seldom admitted to an Audience.
The Duke has rarely any other Company at _Belle-Vue_ but two young Ladies
whom he calls his Maids of Honour, and three young Women, Citizens
Daughters, who go by the Name of his Chamber-Maids; a Major of his Troops,
and the Officer of his Guard, who is a Lieutenant or an Ensign. I had
forgot to mention the Baron _de Bruhl_, who is the Duke's Favourite and
his Master of the Horse.
'Tis with these Persons that the Prince passes his Time. He wakes early in
the Morning, but makes it late before he rises; for he takes his Tea in
Bed, and sometimes plays on the Violin. At other times he sends for his
Architects and Gardeners, with whom he amuses himself in drawing of Plans.
His Ministers also come to him while he is in Bed to talk upon Business.
About Noon he gets up, and as soon as he is dress'd, sees his Guard mount,
which consists of 33 Men, commanded by a Lieutenant or an Ensign. He
exercises his Soldiers himself, and corrects them too when they commit any
Fault. This done he takes the Air, and at two or three o'clock sits down
to Table, where the two Maids of Honour, the Master of the Horse, the
Major, the Officer of the Guard, and even Foreigners if any happen to be
there, are of the Company. The Dinner holds a long while, and 'tis
sometimes three, four, and five Hours before they rise from Table. The
Glass never stands still hardly, and the Duke talks a great deal, but the
Conversation is commonly on Subjects that are not very agreeable. When
Dinner is over they drink Coffee, after which the Duke retires for a few
Minutes, and then plays at Quadrille with his two young Ladies and the
Major; but sometimes he does nothing but smoak Tobacco, and he often
retires to his Chamber where he amuses himself with Drawing or else
playing on the Violin till he goes to Bed.
There scarce a Week passes but the Duke gives an Invitation at least once
or twice to all the Persons of Quality of the Court, and all the Officers
of his Troops, at which time there are two great Tables spread, where they
dine, play, sup, and afterwards dance till next Day.
The Duke's Troops consist of a Battalion of 700 Men, a Squadron of 180
Troopers, and a Company of Cadets on horseback. His Infantry consists of
pick'd Men. Since the famous _Bernard de Weimar_ who was Pensioner to
_Lewis_ XIII. King of _France_, no Duke of _Weimar_ had so many Troops,
and really they must be chargeable to the Duke whose Revenues 'tis said
don't exceed 400000 Crowns. This Prince has made a Treaty with the King of
_Poland_, whereby he engages to assist the King with his Battalion
whenever his Majesty thinks it necessary for his Service; in which Case
the King promises to give that Battalion the same Pay as he does his own
Troops. Mean time the Duke is obliged to clothe them all according to the
Pattern which is sent to him from _Dresden_; and indeed their Clothes are
very rich, especially those of the Officers and Cadets, which are so
bedaub'd with Gold and Silver Lace, that a Foreigner who comes to _Weimar_
cannot but admire it.
The Duke's Family is very numerous, for besides the Prince his Son and the
three Princesses his Daughters, he has a Sister, and a Mother-in-law, who
is a Princess of _Hesse-Hombourg_: Mean time he has a numerous Court, and
may boast that some of them are Persons of very great Merit.
The Gentleman who is at the Head of Affairs is the Baron _de Reinbabe_,
who has the Title of President of the Council of State. He is a Person of
a good Family, in _Silesia_, has very great Abilities, and withal so much
Good-nature and Modesty as are seldom to be met with. When he was young he
travell'd very much abroad, where he learnt what was valuable in every
Country that he came to. He speaks several Languages well, is a great
Historian, a learned Civilian, and a good Poet. Notwithstanding the
Business that goes thro' his Hands, and his Care of a numerous Family, he
is always almost at his Studies, and never better pleas'd than when he is
in his Library; yet he is no Enemy to Pleasures, but enjoys them without
abandoning himself to them, and takes them as they fall in his way without
pursuing 'em. To finish his Character I will add what was said of him by a
Prince who knew him intimately: _If Probity was intirely lost in the rest
of Mankind_, said he to me, _I think I shou'd be sure to find it again in
the Baron_ de Reinbabe.
The Baron _de Schmiedel_ is Marshal of the Court and Director of the
military Chest. He is a Person of great Piety, whose Aspect is not indeed
the most engaging, yet a very good Man to have to do with. He is a sincere
Friend, loves to do a kind Thing, is exact in the Duties of his Offices,
an Enemy to Vice, and very much attach'd to the Interests of his Master,
tho' he does not always please him because he has not the Talent of
Dissimulation so necessary at Courts.
The Baron _de Studenitz_ a _Silesian_ is a Privy-Counsellor, and President
of the Chamber. He was formerly in the Service of the Duke of
_Saxe-Barbi_, and afterwards he enter'd into that of the Duke of
_Saxe-Hilburgshausen_, whose Finances he directed for several Years, in
which he acquired a Reputation, and came to _Weimar_ where he was
continued in the same Employment. He is a Gentleman of very great Learning
and Integrity, and having travell'd a long time in his Youth, very well
knows how to carry himself.
M. _de Hering_ is of a noble Family in the Country of _Anhalt-Cothen_. He
is the Duke's Aulic Counsellor, a Gentleman of Worth, and both Learned and
Polite. He is on the point of leaving this Court, which will be a Loss to
the Duke that he will not easily repair.
M. _de Bruhl_ the Duke's Master of the Horse and Favourite, is a _Saxon_.
His Birth, good Qualities, and especially his sweet Temper render him very
worthy of a Sovereign's Favour. Yet I doubt whether, notwithstanding so
much Merit, he has a firm Footing in the Duke's Friendship; he has too
much Candor, too much Sincerity, and is too zealous to do Services; and
perhaps also too much attach'd to the Interests and Honour of his Master:
for tho' these Qualities have the Appearance of Virtues, yet they are
sometimes Errors in the Eyes of Princes.
Thus, Sir, have I given you the Names of the most distinguish'd Persons at
the Court of _Weimar_. I set out to-morrow for _Gotha_. I hope for a Line
from you at _Wurtzbourg_, and don't propose to write again to you till I
know whether you are living or dead.
_I am_, &c.
[Illustration]
LETTER VII.
_SIR_, _Gotha, Sept. 9, 1732._
I set out from _Weimar_ at 5 o'clock in the Morning, and by eight was at
_Erfurt_, where I walk'd about an Hour, and came at Noon to _Gotha_.
'Tis all a flat Country abounding with Corn. In time of Rain the Roads are
so bad that sometimes it takes up a whole Day to come from _Erfurt_ to
_Gotha_. ERFURT is a City belonging to the Elector of _Mentz_, is the
Capital of _Thuringia_, and may be rank'd among those of the second Class
in _Germany_. Its Inhabitants are almost all _Lutherans_, yet the
principal Churches belong to the Catholics. _Erfurt_ is fortified with
good Ramparts, and by a Castle on a Hill which absolutely commands the
Town. There is always a good Garison in the Place, which consists of the
Emperor's Soldiers and those of _Mentz_; and the Elector has a Governor
here with the Title of _Stadtholder_, who presides in the Regency.
GOTHA, which is not near so big as _Erfurt_, is a City situate in the
middle of a fine fruitful Plain, so that which way soever one approaches
it, one always perceives the Castle or Palace of the Duke, which stands on
an Eminence by itself, and has a Prospect of a vast Extent of Country.
This Castle, which is one of the biggest in _Germany_, was built by
_Ernest_ Duke of _Gotha_, surnamed the _Pious_; who caused both that and
the Town to be encompassed with Ditches and Ramparts. To the Glory of this
Prince, he undertook and finished these Great Works, at a time when
_Germany_ was so impoverished by intestine Wars that few of its Princes
were able to erect Palaces[73].
As of all the _Saxon_ Princes of the _Ernestine_ Branch, the Duke of
_Gotha_ is the most powerful, so his Court is of all the _Saxon_ Courts
next to that of _Dresden_, the most Numerous and the most Magnificent.
Nevertheless the Subjects of the Duke of _Gotha_[74] are the least
burthen'd with Taxes of any in _Germany_. To this Prince's wise Management
of his Finances is owing not only his own Happiness, but that of his
People too, by whom he is ador'd; and really he treats them more like a
Father, than a Sovereign; and never makes them sensible of his Power, but
when he is to do them Justice. He is a kind good Master, easy of Access,
temperate in his way of Living, gives very great Application to the
Affairs of his Government, loves Reading, understands Books, and knows
every thing which a Prince ought to be acquainted with. As to his Person,
he is handsome and comely; is civil in his Deportment, but reserv'd; and
therefore seldom speaks to Strangers, if he can help it; but endeavours
first of all to know those he has Business with, and when he has found out
their Character, talks with them upon such Subjects as he thinks they are
best acquainted with. He keeps regular Hours, rises at seven o'clock,
first spends an Hour in Prayer, and the reading of some pious Treatise;
and then gets himself dress'd, and gives Audience to his Ministers, or to
other Persons that desire it. At Noon he dines with the Duchess his Wife,
the Princes his Children, and other Persons of Distinction; stays about an
Hour and a half at Table, and then takes a Walk in the Gardens of the
Palace, or if the Weather does not permit, he employs himself in his
Closet, or spends the Time in reading till five o'clock. Then he goes to
the House of some Person of Distinction at his Court where all the
Nobility have an Assembly, and plays at Ombre, after which he returns to
his Palace, sups in the manner that he din'd, and at nine o'clock retires.
There is a Drawing-Room at Court three times a Week when the Company meets
in a great Hall, where they make Parties at Ombre and Piquet. At seven
o'clock a large Table is spread, which is free for all the Company. Then a
Carver cuts up the Victuals, which are handed to that, and to all the
Gaming-Tables that are cover'd with Napkins. Those who don't play may sit
down at what Table they like best. The Duke, the Duchess, or the Princes,
generally do Foreigners the Honour to admit them to their Table. During
the Supper there is a Concert of Music, and at nine o'Clock all the
Company retires.
The Duke by his Marriage with _Magdalen-Augusta_ of _Anhalt-Zerbst_, has
seven Sons and two Daughters[75]: The eldest is the Hereditary Prince, who
has been twice in _Paris_, and once in _Italy_, _England_, _Holland_,
_Denmark_, _Sweden_, and at all the Courts of _Germany_, in which Travels
he has acquir'd a great deal of Politeness and valuable Knowledge. I had
the Honour of making my Compliments to him both at _Paris_, and the
_Hague_, and found him of such a Temper as induces me to think that the
Subjects of _Gotha_ will be as happy hereafter under his Government, as
they are under that of the Duke his Father. He was lately married to his
Cousin-German _Louisa-Dorothea_ of _Saxe-Meinungen_, a very lovely young
Princess, who, with all her Graces and Charms, has abundance of
Good-nature and Modesty[76].
The Duke has all the Great Officers common to other Sovereigns. The Count
_de Ronaw_ is Great Marshal, and the chief Man at Court. They give him
here the Character of Favourite; whether he is such I know not, but this I
know, that he is not unworthy of it. I was very well acquainted with him
at _Ratisbon_ in 1720; he was not then in any Place, and expressed a
Friendship for me; and now that I see him here in a Post, I find him the
same Man as at _Ratisbon_, always a Friend to his Friends; which for a
Favourite is a very great Character.
The Duke's Revenues are computed at a Million of Crowns a year, with which
he maintains near 3000 Men of regular Troops. His Family is large and his
Livery fine; his Guards are very well cloath'd; his Table is serv'd with
more Delicacy than Profusion; his Palace is well furnish'd; every body
punctually paid; and no body dissatisfied.
I don't mention the Library to you, nor the Chamber of Rarities, because I
am not yet well enough inform'd of such Things there as are worth
observing. I propose to take another Round before I go hence, and shall
not fail to transmit to you what Observations I shall make there. Mean
time, I am, _&c._[77]
[Illustration]
LETTER VIII.
_SIR_, _Wurtzbourg, Sept. 22, 1729._
When I came hither I had the very great Pleasure to find your Letters, and
to hear that you enjoy perfect Health. Continue, I beseech you, to write
to me; that being the only Means by which you can persuade me what I wish
to be convinced of more than any thing in the World, that my Letters are
acceptable to you.
I have been in one of the most disagreeable Roads in all _Germany_; and
tho' the Country abounds with Provisions of all sorts, I had like to have
been famished in the Public Houses.
From _Gotha_, I went to EYSENACH, thinking to pass a few Days at that
Court, but I found the[78] Duke sick, and the Hereditary Prince and
Princess[79] absent, so that I had only my Labour for my Pains.