one is call'd _Fantasie_, i. e. _the Whim_; and the other, _Monbrillant_,
or, _Mount-Pleasant_. They were built by two Sisters-in-law, _viz._ Madame
_de Kilmanseck_, (who after her Husband's Death, was by King _George_ I.
created Countess of _Arlington_) and the Countess of _Platen_. These two
Houses are a Proof of the good Taste of those Ladies, who were really an
Honour to _Germany_, for their Beauty, good Sense, Manners, and Genius.
They both died in their Prime, a little time after one another; my Lady
_Arlington_ in _England_, and the Countess of _Platen_ at _Hanover_, to
which she was not only an Ornament, but a Lustre.
The Dominions of _Hanover_ are so considerable, that I have been assured
the Revenues are no less than six Millions of Crowns _per An._ Whether
this be true, I do not know; but I tell you what I was told myself.
_Hamelen_ upon the _Weser_ is the only Town that can be reckoned a Place
of Defence. _Hanover_, _Zell_, and _Lunenbourg_, have Ramparts;
_Harbourg_, a Castle, or Citadel; but all so inconsiderable, that they are
not worth mentioning.
There are few Sovereigns whose Finances are in so good a Condition as this
Elector's; which has been the happy Produce of three succeeding Reigns;
and the good [OE]conomy wherewith they were managed by the three last
Princes of the Electoral Family, has contributed infinitely to the Figure
it makes at this time. Mean-while, notwithstanding these Regulations, the
People were never oppress'd, and the Princes always lived with a Splendor
suitable to their Grandeur. _Ernest-Augustus_ obtained the Electoral
Dignity, not without making great Presents to the Court of _Vienna_, at a
time too when his Power was limited to the Dutchy of _Hanover_, and the
Bishoprick of _Osnabrug_. Tho' this Prince had a numerous Family to
provide for, he lived with Splendor, was fond of Magnificence and
Pleasures, gallant, generous, and liberal; and when he died, he left no
Debts to pay, and his Finances were in a good State.
GEORGE I. his Son and Successor kept up a considerable Body of Troops, and
had a very splendid Court. As his Acquisitions were great, he distributed
his Favours where-ever he was inform'd there was a Necessity; and when he
came to the Throne, he made no Reform in this Court; so that their not
seeing him was the only Token of his Absence. At his Death, he left
immense Sums in his Treasury, and so glorious a Character, that his
Subjects still bless the Memory of his Reign.
GEORGE II. his Son, and the Heir of his Crown, his Dominions, and Virtues,
behaves in the very same manner. While he lives and acts like a King, he
neither gives, on the one hand, into the Extravagance of vain Pomp and
Pageantry, nor on the other, into that sordid Thriftiness which debases
Royal Majesty, and extinguishes the Love of Subjects. He accumulates
Treasure without oppressing his People, who love him, and offer up their
Prayers for him, as I do for your Preservation; and
_Am_, &c.
[Illustration]
LETTER IV.
_SIR_, _Blanckenbourg, July 30, 1729._
I was six Hours travelling from _Hanover_ to BRUNSWIC, the Capital of the
Dutchy of that Name, which is a very great City, with Houses for the most
part of Timber. It was formerly a Free and Imperial City, and one of the
_Hanse_-Towns; but falling under the Sovereignty of the Princes of the
House of _Brunswic_, they reduced it to a level with the other Towns of
their Dominions. It belongs to the Duke of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg
Wolfembuttle_. The Duke _Anthony-Ulric_ began to fortify it; and his Son
_Augustus-William_, the present Duke[36], perfected what remained
unfinished at his Father's Death, and made _Brunswic_ a Place which cannot
be besieged without a numerous Army: But then on the other hand, it would
require such an Army to garison it as the Duke could not furnish without
the help of his Neighbours, and which besides, wou'd not perhaps be
extraordinary convenient for him to introduce. The said Duke has caused a
new Palace to be built, which is large and magnificent, and the Furniture
is rich, new, and excellently well chosen. Among the rest, there are very
fine Pictures, and a Cabinet full of Curiosities.
The Duke of _Blanckenbourg_, Brother to the Duke of _Wolfembuttle_, has a
particular Palace, where he resides in the Fair-time, but it did not
appear to me to be a House of any consequence.
The Fairs of _Brunswic_ contribute very much to make it a rich and famous
City, there being two held every Year, and a considerable Trade carried on
at both.
There is very good Diversion during these Fairs; for then all the Ducal
Family is generally at _Brunswic_; to which foreign Princes come often,
and there is always a great Concourse of the Nobility. The Duke sends
every Morning to invite the Quality of both Sexes, who at Noon repair to
the Palace. The Grand Marshal, for avoiding all Disputes about Precedency,
causes the Ladies to be match'd with the Gentlemen by the drawing of
Tickets; and sometimes it happens that a Dutchess is at the lower end of
the Table, which is served with very great Magnificence and Elegance. When
there are too many Guests to sit at one Table, the two Brothers keep each
a separate Table at his own Palace. At Night, the Company repairs to the
_German_ Opera, which being ended, they pass into Rooms joining to the
Theatre where they play, and sup, and then dance. The Ball is open'd by
the Gentleman who happened to draw the first Number in the Morning, and
continues till Day-break.
The Ducal Family of _Brunswic-Wolfembuttle_ consists now but of two
Brothers; the eldest of whom, the Duke[37] _Augustus-William_, has had
three Wives, but no Issue. He is married to a Princess of
_Holstein-Norbourg_.
These two Princes are so far advanced in Years, that the Duke
_Ferdinand-Albert_ of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg-Bevern_, Son-in-law to the Duke
of _Blanckenbourg_[38], is looked upon as their presumptive Heir. _Europe_
produces few Princes of more distinguished Merit, who have equal
Knowledge, more Learning, and Integrity, or more Valour and Experience in
War. He has acquired a noble Reputation in _Hungary_; and he is not only a
Brother-in-law to the Emperor, but one of his favourite Generals, and has
a Regiment in his Service[39].
His Family consists of four Sons and three Daughters[40] by his Wife
_Antonietta-Amelia_ of _Brunswic-Blanckenbourg_. These are very hopeful
young Princes. The eldest, whose Name is _Charles_[41], is of a lovely
Make, and has Sense infinitely beyond his Years. The eldest Princess,
_Elizabeth-Christina_[42], at twelve Years of Age may pass for one that is
compleatly grown; her Air is noble and modest; her Features regular; in a
word, she is form'd to make that Prince happy who is one day to be her
Husband.
The Court of _Wolfembuttle_ is numerous, and when assembled does not want
for Magnificence.
The Ministers of most Power are the Baron _Stein_[43], and the Count _de
Debn_[44]. The former is descended of an illustrious Family in _Swabia_:
He was in the Service of the Landgrave of _Darmstadt_, and his Envoy at
the Dyet of _Ratisbon_, and several Courts, where he made himself
considerable by his Eloquence, the Justness of his Sentiments, by the Ease
with which he expresses them, and by his Politeness.
The Count _de Dehn_ is a Native of _Mecklemburg_, where he was born of a
good Family, and enter'd very young a Page to Duke _Anthony-Ulric_ of
_Brunswic-Wolfembuttle_. He had the Happiness to please that Prince, but
much more his Successor, the Duke _Augustus-William_, who of his Page,
made him his Favourite and Minister, heaped Wealth and Honours upon him,
and match'd him to the Daughter of his Chancellor, who was one of the
richest Heiresses in all _Germany_.
The young Minister finding himself rich and powerful, quickly thought the
Court of _Wolfembuttle_ too narrow a Stage for Action. He had chose the
Count _de Fleming_, Prime Minister of the King of _Poland_, for a Model.
He saw that this Minister, under pretence of important Negotiations, went
to the chief Courts of the Empire to make a Parade of his Riches; and
young _Dehn_ long'd with Impatience to imitate him. He procur'd himself to
be nominated the Duke's Envoy Extraordinary to _Holland_ and _France_,
where he vy'd in every respect with the Ambassadors of the chief Crowns.
In fine, after having staid about eighteen Months at _Paris_, he went away
very much lamented by the Merchants and Workmen with whom he had dealings.
He came to _Wolfembuttle_ to receive the Applauses of his Master, and to
rest himself after the Fatigues he had undergone in his important
Negotiations.
As Count _Fleming_ was honoured with the Orders of _Denmark_, _Russia_,
and _Poland_, his Rival too thought he could not do without one Ribbon at
least; and thinking the Order of _Dannebrock_ the most proper for him,
because it was white, he demanded and obtained it of _Frederic_ IV. the
King of _Denmark_. When he saw himself thus adorn'd, he procured himself
to be sent to _Vienna_. What business he had there, I know not; but he was
scarce ever from the Emperor, and in order to be nearer to his Person, he
lodged just by the Palace of the _Favorita_. He often relieved the Cares
of the Ministry by making some Entertainment or Ball. He had an admirable
Genius for Dancing, so that every body thought him the Inventor of
Country-Dances. The Emperor gave him the Title of a Count, with which he
returned to his own Court.
When Glory has once fir'd a noble Soul, nothing can keep it within Bounds.
The Count _de Dehn_ had lost his first Wife, who left him the Heir of
three great Estates; and he married again to an amiable Lady, who return'd
him Love for Love. Tho' he was dear to his Master, yet he could not
resolve to continue at _Wolfembuttle_, because he had a Taste for nothing
but Treaties and Negotiations. He returned a second time, as Envoy
Extraordinary to the _States-General_, but did not stay long at the
_Hague_; for after having had his publick Audience, wherein he assured
their High-Mightinesses of the sincere Affection of his Master for their
Republic, and of his own personal Joy to find himself seated in an
Arm-Chair in their Assembly, he went over to _England_ to reside at the
Court of his _Britannic_ Majesty. He was admired for his Grandeur, as much
in _England_ as elsewhere; but the Air of that Country not agreeing with
the Delicacy of his Constitution, he return'd to _Germany_; and, after
having made a tour to the chief Courts of the Empire, he is come back to
_Wolfembuttle_, where he stays in expectation that some great Event or
other will turn up, that he may be employ'd in some remarkable Embassy,
whereby _Europe_, attentive to every thing that relates to him, may have
fresh Proofs of his great Talents.
The Baron _de Hagen_ is Commander in Chief of the Duke's Troops, which
actually amount to above 4000 Men, and 'tis said, that his Highness's
Revenues exceed two Millions of Crowns. His Subjects are not the worst
used of any in _Germany_. 'Tis a good fruitful Country; the Peasants, who
are sober and laborious, are as clownish and as stupid as those that herd
with the Hogs in _Westphalia_; but they are robust, strong, and good
Soldiers.
In _Brunswic_ there is a Catholick Church which is small, but neat. The
Duke _Anthony-Ulric_ caus'd it to be built at the time he embraced the
Catholick Religion; which he did, after full Conviction, not many Years
before his Death.
_Saltzdahl_, a Pleasure-House belonging to the Duke, is a League from
_Brunswic_, and from _Wolfembuttle_. It was built by Duke _Anthony-Ulric_,
one of the most magnificent Princes of his Time, and one who had the most
elegant Taste. This House is worthy of nice Observation. It has a great
Gallery with a Collection of Pictures in it by the chief Painters, which
is not to be met with elsewhere. In one great Cabinet there is very fine
Porcellane; and in another, a vast number of Vessels and Urns painted by
_Raphael_. In short, the Curious can't want here for Entertainment.
The Road from _Brunswic_ to WOLFEMBUTTLE is as pleasant as most Roads. We
cross a little Wood through which there are several Routes cut, and as we
come near the Town, several pretty Seats appear in view.
The Town of _Wolfembuttle_ is not half so big as _Brunswic_, nor is it
better built, the Houses being of Timber. The Fortifications seem to me to
be in good Repair. The Castle, or Ducal Palace, is ancient, and makes no
great Appearance, but 'tis commodious, and has good Lodging-Rooms. That
which most deserves the Attention of a Traveller, is the Library, which is
one of the best chosen in _Europe_, and contains very scarce Books and
Manuscripts.
As I had left the Court at _Brunswic_ I did not stay many Hours at
_Wolfembuttle_, but came to lie here at BLANCKENBOURG, where I have all
that Heart can wish for.
The Duke is as affable and as civil a Prince as any in the World. In his
Youth he visited the principal Courts of _Europe_, where he contracted a
great Politeness, and a solid Taste of Elegancy. He loves the _Belles
Lettres_, protects the Arts and Sciences, and looks out for Men of Ability
to serve him. He is magnificent, generous, a good Prince, and a kind
Master. He was at one and the same time, the Father of an Empress, and the
Grandfather of an Emperor. As a Father, he has a considerable Pension from
the Emperor of _Germany_; and as a Grandfather, he has been honour'd with
the Order of St. _Andrew_ of _Muscovy_, founded by _Peter_ the Great,
which is a blue Ribbon, with St. _Andrew_'s Cross appendant to it
enamell'd with blue. This Prince is also a Commander of _Suplenbourg_, a
Commandery of the Order of St. _John_, annexed to the House of _Brunswic_.
He has had three Daughters by his Wife _Elizabeth-Christina_ of
_Oetingen_.
The Dutchess, tho' advanc'd in Years, retains an Air of Grandeur and
Majesty which strikes the Beholders, and her Features discover the Marks
of that shining Beauty which she had in her Youth. But what renders this
Princess more venerable than even her Birth, is her solid Piety, her just
Discernment, her lively Imagination, her noble and easy manner of
expressing herself, and her Principles of Humanity, accompany'd with a
Generosity free from all Ostentation.
I had the honour to pay my Duty to her at _Brunswic_, some Years ago, when
she receiv'd me with such Tokens of Goodness as rejoic'd my very Heart;
and upon all Occasions since, she has been pleas'd to give me fresh Proofs
of it. As I can be of no service to this Princess in any Case, nor so
happy as to be able to contribute to her Glory, 'tis my Ambition to make
every one, and you, Sir, in particular, sensible of the Respect and
Attachment with which I am devoted to her, and of the grateful Sense I
have of the Benevolence with which she has honour'd me.
The Courtiers of _Blanckenbourg_ are, like their Master, very polite. M.
_de Munchausen_ is the chief of the Duke's Council, and was formerly in
the Service of the Duke of _Wolfembuttle_. He is a Gentleman of great
Learning, Labour, and Vigilance, and has a distinct and noble Manner of
Delivery. He is heartily attach'd to his Master; and the Courtiers seem'd
to me to have an Esteem and Affection for him. Men of solid Judgment, and
who have been more conversant with this Minister than I, have assured me
that he is one of the greatest Genius's at this present, in _Germany_[45].
M. _de Sporck_ is the Grand Marshal, which Employment he acquits himself
in with very great Politeness and Care. He is come of a good Family, his
Father being Minister of State, and Director of the Dutchies of _Zell_
and _Lunenbourg_. M. _de Polentz_[46] does the Honours of the Court under
him, in quality of Great Cup-Bearer. As he had his Education at Court, he
is vastly polite; and Foreigners cannot but be pleas'd with his good
Behaviour.
The Duke and Dutchess delight to see Foreigners at their Court, whom they
load with Civilities, and will have them always to dine and sup with their
Highnesses. After Dinner, they take the Air, or make Visits; and in the
Evening there's an Assembly in the Dutchess's Apartment, where they play,
then sup, and afterwards every one retires. We have had a Comedy twice or
thrice, which is acted by the young People of the Family, who perform
their Parts very well; especially in the Tragedies of _Corneille_ and
_Racine_, translated into _High-Dutch_.
The Pleasures of the Carnival are more gay, at which time the Duke makes
Entertainments: There's a Ball, a Masquerade, and Comedy at Court, every
Day; and for the time there's so great a Concourse of Strangers here from
the neighbouring Towns, that sometimes 'tis impossible to get a Lodging.
The Town of BLANCKENBOURG is small, and the Houses ill built, and
inconvenient. The Duke has done all in his power to engage the Inhabitants
to build; he has offer'd them Materials _gratis_, and has moreover
endeavour'd to inspire them with a Taste for the Arts; but all without
Success.
I never in my whole Life, saw People more indolent and clownish than those
of _Blanckenbourg_, and the neighbouring Towns. They are so bigotted to
old Customs, that they say, _My Father liv'd so, and so will I; My Father
did not do this, nor will I_. I cannot conceive how People, so dull as
they are, and so strongly attach'd to the Institutions of their
Forefathers, came to give into _Luther_'s Reformation.[47]
_Blanckenbourg_ is a petty County, which Duke _Anthony-Ulric_ yielded in
his Life-time to his second Son, to make him some sort of Compensation for
the Right of Primogeniture, which he had newly introduc'd into his Family,
to that Son's prejudice: For the Princes of _Brunswic_ had for a long time
been us'd to a Partition of Lands in their Families. The _Hanover_ Branch
was the first that abolish'd that Custom, pernicious to great Families.
Duke _Anthony-Ulric_ was only restrain'd from it by Pr. _Lewis_ his second
Son, whom he lov'd more than his eldest; and not caring to leave him
without Dominions, to the Discretion of a Brother, he gave him Possession
of this State in his Life-time; because he was of Opinion, that after his
Death, his Will wou'd have the Fate of not being executed by his
Successor, according to the Custom introduc'd among Sovereigns. With them
'tis a Right of Regale, but for us to do so, is a Crime.
As the County of _Blanckenbourg_ does not give Admittance into the College
of Princes at the Dyet of the Empire, so it does not give the Rank of a
Sovereign Prince to the Person in possession of it. The Duke, in order to
procure himself both these Privileges, made a Treaty with the Elector of
_Hanover_, whereby he got that Prince to yield him the Vote and Seat which
he enjoy'd in the Dyet for his Dutchy of _Grubenhagen_: And the Duke, on
his part, engaged never to vote at the Dyet but in conformity to the
Sentiments of the Elector. After his Decease, or if he happens to succeed
his Brother, the Vote and Session for _Grubenhagen_ revert to the
Elector[48].
This, Sir, is all that I can say to you at present. Their Highnesses being
to set out in a few days for _Oetingen_, where they use to go every
Summer, I propose to go forthwith to _Leipsic_ and _Dresden_: And at the
latter Place I hope to hear from you.
I am, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER V.
_SIR_, _Dresden, August 30, 1729._
From _Blanckenbourg_ we have till'd Lands, and fruitful Fields; with Woods
of Oak interspers'd all the way, till we come to MAGDEBOURG, the Capital
of a Dutchy of that Name, formerly an Archbishoprick, but secularised at
the Treaty of _Westphalia_, in favour of the House of _Brandenbourg_, to
whom that Dutchy was yielded in exchange for their resigning Hither
_Pomerania_ to _Sweden_. This City has for these two Centuries past,
suffer'd very much. It was besieg'd by the Emperor _Charles_ V. who
squeez'd considerable Sums from it. But it fared worse in that unhappy War
which divided _Germany_ during the space of 30 Years; for the Counts _de
Tilly_ and _Papenheim_ commanding the Imperial Army in 1631, took it by
Storm, put the Inhabitants to the Sword, and reduc'd the whole City almost
to Ashes. Nevertheless, 'tis since pretty well recover'd, and has some
fine Houses. The great Square before the King's Palace has few equal to it
for its Extent, and for the fine Houses that encompass it, which are all
uniform, three Stories high, and were all raised in this Reign. In this
same Square there's an Arsenal, which really is not so magnificent as that
of _Berlin_, but may be rank'd among the chief Arsenals in _Europe_. This
is a populous Town, and has a more flourishing Trade than any other City
in the King of _Prussia_'s Dominions.
The great Church, which was formerly the Metropolitan, is ancient, and one
of the largest and most magnificent Buildings in _Germany_. It has still
some Reliques to shew, particularly the Basin in which _Pilate_ washed his
Hands, after having pass'd Sentence of Death upon our Saviour; the
Lanthorn[49] which _Judas_ made use of when he went to apprehend him; a
Thorn of the Crown that was planted on his Head: and things of the like
kind.
The Chapter of _Magdebourg_ is still, bating the change of Religion, on
the same footing as before the Reformation. The Canons must all make Proof
of their Nobility; tho' 'tis a _Punctilio_ with which the King, who
confers all the Prebends and Dignities of the Chapter, sometimes
dispenses. The present Provost is the Duke of _Saxe-Barbi_, who succeeded
his Father in that Dignity, which brings him in 12000 Crowns a-year. He
lives in a fine House on the great Square, fronting the Palace, built by
the Order of King _Frederic_ I. who also caus'd a Citadel to be erected
here, on the other side of the _Elbe_, over which there is a Bridge. That
King began likewise to fortify the Town; and King _Frederic-William_, who
carried on, and finish'd the Fortifications, has now made _Magdebourg_ one
of the most important Places in _Europe_. M. _de Walrave_, Chief Engineer,
had the Direction of those Works, which are a Proof of his great Ability.
The Margrave _Albert_ of _Brandenbourg_[50], Brother to the late King
_Frederic_ I. is Governour of the Dutchy of _Magdebourg_; as is the Prince
of _Anhalt-Dessau_ of the Town, where he has a numerous Garrison under his
command. The Arsenal, which is a fine Structure, and full of Cannon, and
small Arms, is worth seeing.
The King of _Prussia_ having it much at heart to render _Magdebourg_ a
flourishing Town, has transferr'd the Regency of the Dutchy hither, which
was heretofore at _Halle_; and for this reason there are several good
Houses in the Town. The Dutchy of _Magdebourg_ is one of the best
Provinces in the _Prussian_ Dominions. It has a great Income from the
_Elbe_, and the Salt-Works. The Catholicks are allowed a Toleration of
their Religion in the Dutchy, and have Churches in the Town.
The Roads from _Magdebourg_ to _Leipsic_, are so bad at this time, by
reason of the Rains that have fallen for some Days past, that I have been
three Days in getting from the one Town to the other. Indeed I went some
Leagues out of my way, on purpose to see BARBI and COHTEN. The first of
these Towns belongs to a Prince of the House of _Saxony_, of the Branch
of _Weissenfeld_; and has nothing considerable but the Prince's Palace,
which makes a good appearance, and has commodious Apartments, elegantly
furnished. There is a Salon, and a Closet, the Cielings of which are
painted by _Peine_, and not the worst things he has done. The Palace has
Gardens delightfully situate by the side of the _Elbe_. The Duke _de
Barbi_ is the only Prince of the House of _Saxony_ who professes the
_Calvinist_ Religion, in which he was educated by his Father, who was at
first a _Lutheran_. This Prince is a comely handsome young Man. He married
_N---- de Wirtemberg-Oels_[51], but has no Children. He has been in the
Service of _Prussia_, and is Grand Provost of the Chapter of _Magdebourg_,
and Knight of the Order of the White Eagle of _Poland_.
COHTEN, which is bigger than _Barbi_ by one half, belongs to a Prince of
_Anhalt_[52]; the only one of his Branch, tho' he has had two Wives. I
desired leave to kiss his Hand; but he excused himself by pretending an
Indisposition. I have observed that petty Princes are always more
difficult of Access than great ones. The Town has no Fortifications; and I
walk'd about a good while to see if there was any thing remarkable, but
'twas to no purpose; and I was oblig'd to confine myself to my Inn, which
was one of the worst in _Europe_.