and for its University, may justly pass for the Jewel of the Electorate
of _Saxony_; not only for the Beauty of its Structures, but for the
considerable Revenue which it yields to its Sovereign, the King of
_Poland_. 'Tis small, and fac'd with Ramparts, and a Ditch; but all these
Fortifications are of little consequence. Its Castle, or rather Citadel,
which joins to the Town, is a Place of greater Importance. There is always
a good Garrison and Governour in it, who is at present General
_Baumgarten_. As the Castle passes under the Denomination of the King's
House, the _Roman_ Catholicks have had a Chapel there ever since
_Augustus_ II. embraced their Religion.
The Suburbs of _Leipsic_ are very large. The City has four Gates newly
built of Free-Stone, which are magnificent, tho' not according to the
Rules of Architecture.
At each Gate they have newly set up a Mile-Post, such as the _Romans_ had
formerly. There are the like Posts at the Gates of all the Towns, and even
at the Villages in the Electorate of _Saxony_. From hence they count the
Leagues, which are divided at the end of every Quarter of a Mile, by other
Posts not so big, upon all the great Roads, shewing the Distances of the
Places, and of the chief Towns; which is a mighty Convenience to
Travellers, who were heretofore often impos'd upon by the Post-Masters, as
to the Length of the Roads.
The Houses of _Leipsic_ are large, very high, and substantially built of
Free-Stone; and their being adorn'd with great fine Windows helps to set
them off to the Eye. The Ground-Floors of most of the Houses are
Warehouses, in which the foreign Merchants store the Goods they sell at
the Fairs, which are three in number every Year, _viz._ at
_New-Year's-day_, _Easter_, and _Michaelmass_. The Concourse of Foreigners
here at the Fair-Season, is so great that 'tis often a hard matter to get
a Lodging here for Love or Money. I myself saw in 1709, at the
_New-year's_ Fair, the late King of _Prussia_, the King and Queen of
_Poland_, and 44 Princes or Princesses of Sovereign Families. The two
Kings and the Queen lodged at the House of _Appel_, a Merchant; where the
King of _Poland_ always resides when he comes to _Leipsic_.
The University, formerly so famous, is very much decay'd: That of _Halle_,
its Neighbour, and its Rival, in the King of _Prussia_'s Dominions, takes
away a great many Students from it. They say that for some time past there
have been more able Professors at _Halle_, where besides 'tis much cheaper
living than at _Leipsic_; and where the Students are not such
Spendthrifts, nor so much addicted to Expence and Gallantry.
The Gardens of Messieurs _Appel_ and _Pose_, Merchants, in the Suburbs,
are worth seeing. The first is large and magnificent: In the second are
very uncommon Plants, cultivated with very great Care. The Gardeners of
_Leipsic_, who are reckon'd the best in all _Germany_, value themselves
upon forcing Nature; so that I have seen here, at _Easter_ Fair, the
Fruits, Flowers, and Pulse, of all the Seasons. The Asparagus here is
delicious, and extraordinary large. Another Nicety at _Leipsic_, is its
Larks, which are sent over all _Germany_; nay, to _Poland_, _Holland_ and
_Denmark_. I was assured, but I will not vouch for the Truth of it, that
the very Custom-Duty paid for Larks at _Leipsic_, amounted to 12000 Crowns
a-year; which Sum I thought the more considerable, because I think I have
heard it said, that 60 Larks pay but a Grosh[53] the Duty; judge then how
many there must be to make up the Sum of 12000 Crowns. But be it true or
false, 'tis certain that there is not a Country in the World where these
Birds are taken in such quantities; for, from _Michaelmass_ to
_Martinmass_, the Fields are cover'd with 'em.
Another Singularity is the multitude of Nightingales, in the Woods near
_Leipsic_; whereof they take great numbers, and keep them in Cages: The
Innkeeper's Daughter, where I lodged, had seven of them; and I have seen a
great many at other Houses.
'Tis surprizing that so plentiful a Country as _Saxony_ shou'd have no
better Ordinarys. I don't mean _Leipsic_ and _Dresden_, where, considering
one is in _Germany_, we come off pretty well; tho' were it so in
_Holland_, the _Netherlands_, or in _France_, we shou'd not think
ourselves well us'd. I mean the little Towns and Villages in a Road so
frequented as that from _Leipsic_ to _Dresden_. There's Provision to be
had at these Ordinarys, but then 'tis so ill dress'd, and the Houses so
nasty, that 'tis enough to turn one's Stomach.
Setting out from _Leipsic_, at the opening of the Gates, I came betimes to
WERMSTORF, or HUBERTSBOURG, (St. _Hubert_'s Palace,) a magnificent
Hunting-Seat, which the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_ is building at the
Entrance of a Forest, where there are several Roads cut. This House is
five Miles from _Leipsic_, and eight from _Dresden_; and when 'tis
finish'd, will be large and magnificent: Men are hard at work upon it, and
the main Body of it is already compleated. Their Royal Highnesses, the
Prince and Princess, generally hunt here at Spring and Autumn. The
Equipage for the Stag-hunting is very fine, the Liveries being Yellow,
with Facings of blue Velvet, and Silver Lace at all the Seams.
After I had walk'd an Hour or two at _Hubertsbourg_, I proceeded on my
Journey, and came to Dinner at MEISSEN, the Capital of _Misnia_. This City
has nothing particular, besides its Manufacture of Porcellane, which is
so finely painted and enamell'd with Gold, that it is more beautiful than
the Porcellane of _Japan_, and much dearer. The Invention of it is owing
to an Alchymist, or one that pretended to be such; who had persuaded a
great many People he cou'd make Gold. The King of _Poland_ believ'd it as
well as others, and to make sure of his Person, caus'd him to be committed
to the Castle of _Konigstein_, three Miles from _Dresden_. There, instead
of making Gold, that solid precious Metal, which puts Mankind on
committing so many Follies, he invented Brittle Porcellane; by which, in
one Sense, he made Gold, because the great Vent of that Ware brings a deal
of Money into the Country.
After having pass'd the _Elbe_, over a wooden Bridge, going out of
_Meissen_, I came in less than three Hours to DRESDEN, the Capital of the
Electorate of _Saxony_. The City is pretty large, fortify'd with Art and
Regularity; and very lightsome. Its Houses are high and substantial, the
Streets broad, strait, well pav'd, neat, and in the Night-time well
lighted. There are great Squares in it; and the whole City is so well laid
out, that _Dresden_ may be rank'd among the finest in the World.
The _Elbe_ divides it into two Parts; which are distinguished by Old and
New _Dresden_, and join'd together by a Bridge of Stone.
In order to give you a more perfect Idea of this City, I shall point out
to you such things as I took most notice of. I shall begin with Old
_Dresden_, which is the first that we come to from _Meissen_. At the
Entrance of the Town, on the right hand, there is a great House, called
the Palace of the _Indies_, or _Holland_ House, which the King bought some
Years ago of his Prime Minister, the Marshal Count _de Fleming_. All the
Rooms of this Palace, which consists of three Stories, are so many
Closets of _Japan_ and _China_ Wares. I don't believe that all the
Warehouses in _Amsterdam_ put together, are capable of furnishing such a
quantity of uncommon old Porcellane, as is to be found here. The value of
it is computed at a Million of Crowns. The very Houshold-Goods are
_Indian_. There is one Set of Furniture, the like of which I never saw
elsewhere: It consists of Feathers of various Colours, and all natural;
inlaid with so much Art, that it might be taken for a fine flower'd
Sattin.
This magnificent Palace has a Garden belonging to it, which looks towards
the _Elbe_. It is adorn'd with Statues of white Marble, which the King
caus'd to be purchas'd at _Rome_, of the Cardinals _Annibal_ and
_Alexander Albani_, Nephews to _Clement_ XI. These Statues are much more
priz'd here than they were at _Rome_.
Near the Palace of the _Indies_ stands that of the Cadets; a magnificent
Structure built by the States of _Saxony_, for maintaining two Companies
of Cadets, all Gentlemen of the Country; who are there instructed in all
the Sciences fitting for Persons of Quality.
Farther up in the same Street, there is an Amphitheatre, or Area, for the
Battles of wild Beasts; of which a great number is kept for that purpose.
Here are Lions, Tigers, Bears; in short, all the fiercest Animals from the
four Quarters of the World.
The Bridge over the _Elbe_, which joins Old _Dresden_ to the New, is
scarce to be parallel'd, either for its Length or Substance. It has lately
been made broader by forming Demy-Arches which support the Riders on each
side. The Barriers are of Iron, well wrought. An Equestrian Statue of the
King is going to be erected upon it.
The Palace or Castle joins to the Bridge, at the Entrance of New
_Dresden_. This is an ancient Structure, which makes but a mean
Appearance; and 'tis said, that the King intends it shall be pull'd down,
and another built in its room; and that his Majesty has set apart eight
Millions of Crowns for the Expence of it.
The inside of the Castle surpasses the outside. The State-Room is
splendidly furnish'd. The Great Gallery contains several Curiosities, such
as antique Busts, Vessels, and Pictures.
This Palace has two Chapels, one of which belongs to the _Roman_
Catholicks, and the other to the _Lutherans_. The first was heretofore the
Theatre for Operas, but the King turn'd it into a Chapel, upon account of
the Marriage of his only Son with the Archdutchess, eldest Daughter to the
Emperor _Joseph_; the second was always the Chapel of the Electors of
_Saxony_. The King might, if he pleas'd, have order'd Mass to be
celebrated in it, but he wou'd not give his Subjects that Handle for
Complaint; besides, the late Queen, his Wife, having always stuck to the
_Lutheran_ Religion, in which she was born, he left her that Chapel for
her use. The Treasure of it is extremely rich, and contains Vessels,
Chasubles, and other things heretofore consecrated and given to this
Chapel by the Piety of the Electors.
The Royal Treasury, commonly call'd the _Grune Gewölbe_, (the Green
Vault,) is in the Palace. They are three arch'd Rooms, which contain
immense Riches, and shine all over with Gold, Precious Stones, and
Diamonds. 'Tis one of the finest Places in the World. There are several
Sets of Brilliant Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds, Pearls, Saphirs, and other
Precious Stones. Every Set is compleat, and consists of Buttons for
Clothes, Loops for Hats, Swords, Hangers, Canes, Sleeve-Buttons,
Shoe-Buckles, Muffs, and Sword-Belts, Snuff-Boxes, Watches,
Tweezer-Cases, Pocket-Books; in short, all the Jewels that can possibly be
imagin'd, even to the Furniture of a Horse; so that were I to write down
every Particular, I should furnish you a Volume. And they all look the
better, for being ranged with wonderful Nicety in Cases of Crystal.
To the Castle belongs a Garden, call'd the _Zwinger Garten_, which is the
_Tuilleries_ of _Dresden_, but not extensive enough to deserve the Name of
a Garden. 'Tis encompass'd with Buildings of Free-Stone, which are
Green-Houses for Orange-Trees. The Structure consists but of one Floor, on
which are rais'd six large Pavilions, _viz._ three in front at the
Entrance, two on the sides, and one over the Portico at the Entrance;
which have all a Communication with one another, by a Platform that has
Balustrades adorn'd with Statues. It wou'd be hard to lay what Order of
Architecture prevails most in this Edifice, the Carv'd-Work with which it
is decorated, being more of the _Gothic_ than the modern Taste.
Near to this Building there's a Palace which makes a great Shew, but the
Apartments are by much too small, and too low for the Ornaments employ'd
about them. The King caus'd this House to be built for the Countess _de
Cosel_, at the time when that Lady was in high Favour. No Cost was spar'd
in it; but 'tis pity that a more skilful Architect had not been pitched
upon to conduct it.
There are five or six other Houses, which are here call'd _Hotels_, but in
_Italy_ wou'd certainly pass for Palaces. The Hotel _de Fuhl_ in the
Street of _Pirnitz_ is one of this number. It was erected by the Great
Marshal _de Fuhl_ who on his Death-bed left it to his Wife, of whom it was
purchas'd by the Count _de Fleming_. That Minister sold it soon after to
the King, who made considerable Embellishments in it, and furnished it
richly. In this Condition his Majesty gave it in 1728, to the Marshal _de
Wackerbarth_, to make him amends when he had been burnt out of the House
he liv'd in, as Governour of _Dresden_. After this, the Governour's House
being rebuilt, the King bought the other House again of the Count _de
Wackerbarth_, and has made it a Depositary of his Medals, Antiquities, and
Curiosities.
To be sure you have heard that this Fire broke out at the Governour's
House in the Night-time, while the King of _Prussia_ was here. His Majesty
actually lodg'd at the Governour's House; and was in Bed when the Fire
burst out with such fury that he had but just time to make his Escape in
his Night-Gown, and to save a little Box in which there were Papers of
consequence; for the Floor of his Bed-Chamber fell in, the moment after
the King was gone out of it. An Officer, his Wife, and her Maid-Servant
perish'd in the Flames. The Count _de Wackerbarth_ only sav'd his Wardrobe
and his Plate; for his fine Library, and a noble Collection which he had
of Drawings, one of the compleatest and best chosen Setts in _Europe_,
were consum'd.
The Hotel of _Hoyhm_ is the most considerable Building in _Dresden_. In
about six Years time it had four different Owners. It was founded by the
King's Favourite, the Count _de Fitztuhm_[54], his Great Chamberlain, and
Minister of State; who having been kill'd in a Duel at _Warsaw_, by the
Count _de St. Gilles_, a _Piedmontese_ that came to _Poland_ to seek
his Fortune, his Widow sold it to Marshal _Fleming_, who dying at _Vienna_
not long after he had purchased it, the House fell to his Son, a weakly
Child, who did not long survive him. His Mother, who was a _Radzivil_, was
his Heiress, and one of the greatest Matches in _Europe_. She was soon
after married again to a _Polander_ whom she follow'd into his own
Country; and when she left _Dresden_, she sold her House to the Count _de
Hoym_, who at present occupies it.
Not far from this House are the King's Stables, which are well worth
seeing, there being a great number of wonderful fine Horses, and some of
all sorts of the rarest Breeds. Over the Stables, are Rooms full of fine
Equipage, consisting of sumptuous Saddles and Housings, Sleds and
magnificent Harness. Many of these Equipages are of the _Turkish_ Mode,
and plated with massy Silver, adorn'd with precious Stones.
The Arsenal, which is much boasted of here, cannot be reckon'd a fine one
by any but such as have not seen the Arsenal of _Berlin_, to which it is
not to be compar'd. There are several Rooms in it full of Arms, Brass
Cannon, Helmets, and Cuirasses, which are the Tapestry of Arsenals.
Thus, Sir, you have all that I observed in _Dresden_: it remains for me to
give you some Account of its Suburbs, and of the Pleasure-Houses which the
King has in the Neighbourhood of this City.
The Suburbs of _Dresden_ are very extensive, but have no Building of
consequence, except the Palace in the King's great Garden, built by his
Majesty's Mother, and that call'd the _Turkish_ Palace, because it is
furnished entirely after the _Turkish_ manner. The King gave an
Entertainment at this Palace to the Princess his Daughter-in-law, on
account of her Arrival at _Dresden_, which was so particular that I think
it deserves a Digression.
Upon the Feast-Day, the whole Court appeared at the _Turkish_ Palace, in
the Habits of _Turks_. The King came in the Dress of a _Sultan_, but
without any Attendance. His Majesty was soon after follow'd by the
Princess his Daughter-in-law, with her Ladies. Her Royal Highness, for
whom the Entertainment was made, found a Body of Janizaries drawn up in
the Court-Yard of the Palace. The King receiv'd her at the Entrance of his
Apartment, and conducted her into a Hall spread with fine Tapestry, and
laid with Cushions richly embroider'd.
The King and Princess being seated, were served by twenty-four Negroes in
sumptuous Dresses, with Sherbet, Coffee, and Sweet-Meats, in great Vessels
of massy Silver; nor were scented Waters, and perfumed Handkerchiefs
forgot. After this Collation, they drew near the Windows to see the
_Pillau_ (which is the Rice of _Turky_) and the King's Bounty-Money
distributed to the Janizaries. This was follow'd by a Comedy, with an
Entertainment of _Turkish_ Dances. Then came the Supper, the Guests
sitting cross-legg'd upon the Cushions, and the Courses being served up
after the fashion of _Turky_, by the Negroes and young _Turks_. While they
were at Table, the Company was diverted by the various Leaps and Postures
of certain Tumblers and Rope-Dancers. Supper being over, they went into
the Garden, which was illuminated with several Thousands of Crystal Lamps.
There was Tilting, and shooting at the Mark, and whenever the Mark was
hit, a Sky-Rocket was sent up, which for the time seem'd to sprinkle
Thousands of Stars among those in the Firmament. After this, the Company
retir'd into the Palace, where the King and the Princess open'd the Ball,
and there was dancing till five o'clock in the Morning, when the Ball was
concluded with a sumptuous Breakfast that was serv'd at the several
Tables, after the manner of our own Country; which, with the leave of the
_Mussulmen_, is as good as theirs.
The finest Royal Houses, are _Pilnitz_ and _Moritzbourg_. The King, who is
certainly of all Sovereigns the most magnificent, keeps Men continually at
work, in embellishing those Places. The Works are carried on by the
Direction of Mons. _Bot_, whom I think to be not inferior to _Bernini_,
and I doubt not, such is my high Idea of him, that as he is supported by
the Generosity of a Great King, he will accomplish such Works as are
worthy of himself, and of his Master too.
I have now done with the Description of the Palaces and Royal Houses, in
which, I own I have been defective, and would gladly have been excus'd
from giving it; but you would have it, and I cou'd not help gratifying
you. I pass now to something more important; and shall entertain you with
the present State of the Royal Family, and the Characters of the most
distinguish'd Persons at Court.
FREDERIC-AUGUSTUS II. King of _Poland_, and Elector of _Saxony_, is the
Chief of this August Family. This Monarch, whom no Man surpasses in
Strength and Dexterity, and whom few Princes equal in Generosity, is the
second Son of _John George_ III. Elector of _Saxony_. He succeeded his
Brother _John George_ IV. in the Electorate, and was chose King of
_Poland_ after the Death of the Great _Sobieski_, notwithstanding the
Intrigues of the Emissaries of _France_ who declared for the Prince of
_Conti_.
When _Frederic-Augustus_ ascended the Throne, he brought all the Virtues
to it fitting for a Great King. The Agreeableness of his Person, his
Majestic Air, his Heroic Strength, his Good-Nature, his Politeness, and
his well-known Valour, were the least of his Qualities. Never was any
Prince more magnificent, nor did any one either give more, or with a
better Grace. As a General and a Statesman, he was never too much lifted
up by Prosperity, nor shock'd by Adversity; so that he was observed, when
in the depth of his Misfortunes, to act and treat even with his Enemies,
with that Air of Complaisance and Satisfaction, which Men inur'd to great
Affairs know how to assume, in the midst of the cruellest Mortifications.
This Prince, in his Youth, travelled to the chief Countries of _Europe_,
and where-ever he came, was admir'd for his Strength, his Air, and
Dexterity. Amongst other Adventures, a very odd one befel him in his
Travels, at _Venice_. There happen'd to be in that City a famous
Astrologer, who had the Reputation of being well read in the Book of Fate.
The King, who was only Prince at that time, had a mind that he should
calculate his Nativity, and for that purpose went to the Astrologer's
House, accompanied by two Gentlemen. They were all three dress'd in plain
Apparel, and the Prince, to disguise himself still the more, had conceal'd
his brown Hair under a fair Peruke. He enter'd the last Man, into the
Astrologer's House, and seem'd to be rather as an Attendant, than a
Companion of the others. But to him the Astrologer first address'd
himself, calling him by the Titles of _My Lord_ and _Highness_. The Prince
told him that his Rank in the World was much too mean for such high
Compliments; but the Astrologer made answer, he knew very well whom he
spoke to, and that it was in vain for him to think of concealing himself
from such a Man as he. The Prince and his small Retinue were then
conducted by him into a Closet, where he shewed him a Looking-Glass. _Cast
your Eye on that Mirror_, said he to the Prince, _and there you will see
the principal Events of your Life_. The Prince without any scruple,
look'd accordingly, and saw himself at first in the Habit of an Elector;
afterwards, with a Crown on his Head, and a royal Mantle on his Shoulders;
and at last, full of Wounds, and bath'd in his Blood.
This Story, which I should not give you for true, if I had not heard it
from a great Nobleman who told me he had it from the King's own Mouth, is
however, not without a Parallel; for it is pretended, that a Mason told
Madam _de Maintenon_, when she was no more than Madam _Scarron_, what her
Fortune and Rank would be in _France_. I could mention several other
Instances to you of the same nature, which all surprize me, tho' they
don't convince me. Be it as it will, two Articles of the Prediction made
to the King of _Poland_ are fully accomplished; as to the third, may
Heaven confound the Astrologer[55].
The King of _Poland_ spends part of his time in his Kingdom, and part of
it in his Electorate. 'Tis true, that he seems to take more delight in
_Saxony_ than in _Poland_; and 'tis in my Opinion very natural for him to
do so; _Saxony_ being his hereditary Country, where he is so absolute
that his Will is the Law of his Subjects, by whom he is rather ador'd than
belov'd: besides, 'tis _Saxony_ that furnishes him wherewithal to support
his Dignity, and offers him every thing conducive to the Pleasures of a
Great King; and it is there that he has a Court, the most brilliant in
_Europe_, not only for its Splendor, but for Magnificence and Pleasures;
whereas in _Poland_, he has only the vain Pageantry of Royalty; being
under greater Limitations than any Sovereign in the World; so that the
least Innovation, the least Act of Authority, makes the _Poles_ clamorous,
and they presently think they are excused from paying him that Obedience
which they owe him. All the Gentlemen here are their own Masters; and the
Noblemen behave so much like Sovereigns, that they never go to Court but
to demand Favours, which if they obtain, they go away ungrateful, and if
they are deny'd, they retire with the Intention of taking a Revenge on the
first Opportunity: For the Climate being rough, the People are fierce; and
the King, tho' adored in _Saxony_, is scarce beloved in _Poland_.