dispute, one of the richest and most considerable Towns in all the Empire
of _Germany_. It depends solely upon its Magistrates, who are chose by the
Burgers themselves. Its Liberty has been often contested by the Kings of
_Denmark_, who as Dukes of _Holstein_, pretend that _Hamburgh_ is built
upon their Territory, and that therefore they ought to be the Sovereigns
of it. The Electors of _Brandenbourg_, and the Princes of the House of
_Brunswic_, always opposed the Incroachments of the _Danes_; nor will they
suffer any Power whatsoever to oppress the City of _Hamburgh_, because, if
it were possible, they would be glad to annex it to their own Domains. The
City being exposed to these Attacks, has taken all the Measures possible
to be in a condition to defend its Liberty. 'Tis very well fortified,
maintains a good Garrison, and has an Arsenal provided with all
Necessaries.
The Commerce of _Hamburgh_ is considerable, tho' 'tis very much lessen'd
since _Frederic_ IV. King of _Denmark_, prohibited the Importation of
Merchandize from _Hamburgh_ to his Dominions[19].
The manner of living in this City is different from that of all the Hanse
Towns. Here is a tolerable Opera all the Year round[20]; charming Walks,
choice Company, much Visiting and hearty Cheer. There are several good
Houses of the Nobility, where Foreigners are well receiv'd. The Merchants
are affable and civil; most of them in their youth travel to the most
remarkable Countries of _Europe_, where they then pass for Gentlemen of
_Holstein_. As they are rich, they can easily afford to make a good
Appearance where-ever they come. There they learn that polite Air, and
that Behaviour which one would wish to see in all Gentlemen of good
Families. The only thing for which I find fault with them, is, that they
treat their Wives too much like the _Levant_ People, where the Women are
only suffer'd to go to the Mosques; so here, the Women scarce go any where
but to Church, or if they at any time take the Air, 'tis in company with
their Husbands: and a Foreigner is so seldom admitted to their
Assemblies, that when he is, those poor Women are as much astonish'd at
the sight of him, as a Sultana would be to see a Capuchin enter the
_Seraglio_.
There's a great many worthy People here. I have made an Acquaintance with
M. _de Brocks_, one of the Magistrates, who has acquir'd a Reputation for
his Skill in Poetry, by such Compositions as cannot but convince
Foreigners, who understand the _High-Dutch_, that as good things may be
said in that Language, as in any other[21]. This M. _de Brocks_ is of an
amiable Character, civil, and complaisant, and has acquir'd the Love and
Esteem of all that know him.
Most of the _European_ Princes have Residents here, for which reason here
are several Chappels of the _Roman_ Catholicks, who otherwise would be
obliged to go to the Church at _Altena_, as the _Calvinists_ are forc'd to
do, the _Lutheran_ being the Religion that is uppermost at _Hamburgh_; but
the _Jews_ have their Synagogues here. What an odd Establishment is this
in a Christian Country![22] how uncharitable, and even nonsensical! and
how must it make the _Turks_ laugh! We grant Synagogues to the _Jews_, the
Enemies of JESUS CHRIST, who would crucify him again, if they had not done
it already; and we refuse Churches and Temples to those that believe as
we do in JESUS CHRIST! No, were you to call me Heretic a thousand times, I
would say, HOLLAND FOR EVER! where 'tis a Maxim, to leave every Man to his
Conscience; and where they think it would be a Contradiction to admit
People to be their Fellow-Citizens, and to deny them the Liberty of
worshipping God in their own way.
The Emperor's Minister, who has the Title of _His Imperial Majesty's
Plenipotentiary_ to the Circle of Lower _Saxony_, commonly resides at
_Hamburgh_. The last Gentleman that had this Employment was the Count _de
Metsch_[23]; and since his being made Vice-President of the Emperor's
_Aulic_ Council, it has not been fill'd up[24].
The Populace of _Hamburgh_, just such another ungovernable Herd as the
_Amsterdam_ Mobs, having taken it into their heads some years ago, out of
a mad sort of Zeal for Religion, to plunder the House and Chapel of the
Emperor's Resident; the City in order to make Satisfaction for the Insult,
was condemned to build a House which was to be the Residence of the
Emperor's Minister always for the future. For this end, the City bought
the Palace of the late Baron _de Gortz_, a Man of great Fame in the
History of _Charles_ XII. King of _Sweden_; and whose Fortune and
Catastrophe are worthy your notice.
_Henry_ Baron _de Gortz_ was born of an independent Family in _Franconia_,
which is a Province that abounds with Nobility of Distinction. He enter'd
young into the Service of the Duke of _Holstein-Schleswic_, and rose to be
his Minister. He was a Man generous, noble, and magnificent, even to
Profusion; vigilant, full of Projects and Stratagems; a Man whom nothing
could surprize, nothing dissuade from a Design that he had once form'd;
whose Ambition was boundless, and who always aim'd to do something to be
talk'd of. In the _North_ there was no Intrigue in which he had not a
hand, and into which he did not likewise draw his Master, whom he push'd
upon Enterprizes so far above his Power to execute, that he thereby lost
his Dominions. The Baron _de Gortz_ thought _Holstein_ too narrow a Sphere
for him to move in, and therefore he attach'd himself to _Charles_ XII.
King of _Sweden_, after that Prince return'd from his long Stay at
_Bender_. _Charles_ was just such a Master as the Baron wanted, and he
just such a Minister as was necessary for the King of _Sweden_; nor was
there ever in the World a greater Sympathy between two Men. _Gortz_ was
born to form great Designs, _Charles_ to put them in execution; and the
constant Design of both was only to throw _Europe_ into a Ferment.
The Baron, besides other happy Gifts of Nature, had the Talent of
insinuating and pleasing. He soon got an Ascendant over _Charles_, to such
a degree that tho' this Prince was never to be advis'd by his Ministers,
yet the Baron's Opinion was a Law to him. _Gortz_ frighten'd _Europe_, and
made _Sweden_ tremble; being as much fear'd and dreaded there as the King
himself. The _Swedes_ were uneasy to see so great a Share of Authority
vested in a Foreigner; and therefore form'd Parties and Cabals to strip
him of it; but they durst not discover their Designs. The Minister knew
all the while they envy'd him, but was in no manner of Concern about it;
for being sure of the Favour of the King, he despised the Hatred, both of
the Populace and the Great Men[25].
But after the Death of _Charles_ XII. who was killed at the Siege of
_Frederickshall_, in the Month of _December_, the _Swedes_ did not fail to
punish him; for the Baron, before he cou'd have Intelligence of the King's
Death, was actually put under an Arrest; and upon that Occasion he said to
the Officer, _Surely the King must be dead!_ From that Moment he was never
once heard to complain or murmur; for he was intrepid even to Death; the
Sentence of which he received with a wonderful Constancy of Mind, chose to
die like a Philosopher, and thought too freely of Religion to the very
last. A Divine, who is now one of the King of _Denmark_'s Chaplains,
turn'd his Heart, and brought him to acknowledge that 'twas the Hand of
God which smote him. He was conducted to the Place of Execution in a
mourning Coach, in which the Chaplain rode with him. He had a long Robe of
black Velvet, ty'd with Ribbands over his Shoulders; and as he was
mounting the Scaffold, which was hung with black Cloth, perceiving one
_Duval_, a _Frenchman_, who was his Steward, he held out his Hand, saying,
_Farewell +Duval+, I shall eat no more of thy Soups_. When he was on the
Scaffold, an Officer of Justice read a Paper to him with a loud Voice; in
which it was declared that he was degraded from the Rank of Nobility, and
that the Queen had order'd him to be beheaded. _Alas!_ said he, _I am born
a free Baron of the Empire. +Sweden+ cannot take from me what it never gave
me; and if I had really deserv'd to be degraded, none has a Right to do it
but the +Emperor+._ Having requir'd one of his Valets de Chambre to undress
him, he deliver'd the Ribband of the Order of the Black Eagle of _Prussia_
to a Gentleman who stood near him, and enjoin'd him to carry it to one of
his Kindred, that he might return it to the King of _Prussia_. Then he
fell on his Knees, without shewing the least Sign of Fear; and receiv'd
the Stroke of Death with a Constancy of which there are very few Examples.
His Head being exposed to the People, was a pleasing Victim to their
Hatred and Revenge. The Baron's Corpse was interr'd, at the Place of
Execution, from whence one of his Footmen took it away in the Night-time,
put it into a Barrel, and carry'd it to _Hamburgh_; where it was laid upon
a Bed of State, and bury'd with all the Formalities fitting the Rank which
he had held in the World.
Within a Cannon-Shot of _Hamburgh_, stands the Town of ALTENA, which
belongs to the King of _Denmark_. The _Swedish_ General, _Steinbock_,
reduc'd it to Ashes, the 9th of _January_ 1712, by way of Reprisal, as he
said, because the _Danes_ had burnt _Staden_: but there was this
Difference, that the _Danes_ had besieg'd _Staden_ in form, and destroy'd
it by their Bombs; whereas _Steinbock_ acted the part of an Incendiary. As
soon as he appear'd before _Altena_, he sent in a Message to advise the
Inhabitants to retire with what they could carry off, for that he was
going to destroy their Town. The Magistrates came out in a Body, and
falling at his Feet, begg'd for Mercy, and offer'd him a considerable Sum
of Money. _Steinbock_ insisting on more, they granted him his whole
Demand, only they desir'd Time to go to _Hamburgh_ for the Money. The
merciless General would admit of no such Delay. The poor Inhabitants were
oblig'd to turn out; the Mothers carry'd out their Infants; the young
Fellows, the paralytick old Men; some groan'd under Loads of Furniture;
all lamented their Fate, and uter'd Cries that wou'd have almost pierc'd
a Stone. The _Swedes_ stood at the Barriers, with flaming Torches in their
Hands, to see them pass; and before the poor Inhabitants were all gone
out, they enter'd the Town, and set fire to all parts of it; not sparing
even the Vaults of the Dead.
Never was a greater Desolation known; but what compleated the Ruin of the
_Altenois_, was the Necessity of the Times, which was such as oblig'd the
_Hamburghers_ not to entertain them. Several prejudic'd Authors have said
that the _Hamburghers_, insensible, if not overjoy'd at the Calamity of
their Neighbours, kept their Gates shut, that they might see them perish.
But the truth is, that the _Hamburghers_ were oblig'd to be thus strict;
because the Plague raging at that time in _Holstein_, the Elector of
_Hanover_ had forc'd them to stop all Commerce with that Country;
threatning them, that if he heard they had the least Communication with
_Altena_, he wou'd prohibit his Subjects from all manner of Correspondence
with the City of _Hamburgh_. Besides, it wou'd not have been prudent in
the _Hamburghers_ to have open'd their Gates in the Night-time; for the
_Swedish_ Army being so near, they could not tell but the _Swedes_ might
come into the Town as well as the _Altenois_. To the Misfortune of the
Times therefore must be ascribed the Distress of the Inhabitants of
_Altena_, most of whom perished with Cold, Want, and Despair.
_Frederic_ IV. King of _Denmark_, being touched with Compassion for the
Misfortune of his Subjects of _Altena_, relieved them as far as the
Necessity of the Times wou'd give him leave. He caus'd them to be supply'd
with Materials for rebuilding their Houses; and now _Altena_ has recovered
her Losses: for the King of _Denmark_ has not only granted it many new
Privileges, but has caus'd a Harbour to be made there; and does all that
is in his power to draw a Trade to it. This City being a privileg'd Place
for Bankrupts, many of that Character come from _Hamburgh_ to settle here;
and there is a general Toleration for those of all Religions, who have
their Churches and Temples here; which draws such numbers of People, that
in time _Altena_ will probably become _Hamburgh_, and _Hamburgh_ _Altena_:
For the _Hamburghers_, on the contrary, will tolerate no Christian Sects;
tho' they grant the _Jews_ the public Exercise of their Religion, as has
been already observed. The Governour of _Danish Holstein_ resides here,
who is the Count _de Reventlau_, Brother to the[26]Queen of _Denmark_. I
am, _&c._
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
LETTER III.
_SIR_, _Hanover, July 5, 1729._
This Letter is to acquaint you of some things that I remark'd in the Road
from _Hamburgh_, and in this City itself; where I have now been these
three Days.
I set out from _Hamburgh_ the 22d of _June_, and went by Water to
HARBOURG, having sent my Chaise thither the Day before. This Town is a
Dependant on the Dutchy of _Lunenbourg_, and belongs to the Elector of
_Brunswic-Lunenbourg_. It has nothing very remarkable but its Castle,
which is a Pentagon, lin'd with a good Cover'd-Way. Madamoiselle
_d'Olbreuse_[27], whom the Duke of _Zell_ marry'd, had the Title of Madame
_de Harbourg_, till she was recogniz'd by the Emperor a Princess of the
Empire. For by the Laws of _Germany_, a Prince of a Sovereign Family can
marry none but a Princess, or a Countess. If he weds a private
Gentlewoman, he not only marries below himself, but his Wife does not go
by his Name; and the Children of such Marriage cannot succeed, unless the
Emperor declare the Mother a Princess; as he commonly does in favour of
Princes of antient Families.
Between _Harbourg_ and _Zell_, which is twelve Miles, there is scarce any
thing but Heath. The Post-Stages, which are of four Miles, are very ill
serv'd, and the Inns the worst in _Germany_; all which together render
the Road extremely disagreeable.
ZELL is a little Town with great Suburbs. All its Buildings are of Timber,
except the Churches, the Castle, and the House of Correction, which are of
Brick. There is a Trade from hence to _Bremen_, by the River _Aller_.
After the Death of _George-William_, the last Duke of _Zell_[28], this
City, and its Dependency, the Dutchy of _Lunenbourg_, devolv'd to his
Nephew _George_, Elector of _Brunswic-Hanover_, afterwards King of _Great
Britain_. This Prince had a Regency at _Zell_, which judged all Causes,
without any Appeal but to the Council of State at _Hanover_. The President
of it at this time, is the Baron _de Friesberg_, a Person of a good Family
in the Country of _Hildesheim_; who has been a long time the Elector's
Envoy at the Diet of _Ratisbon_, where I knew him, and received a world of
Civilities from him. He is esteem'd for the prudent Management of his
Office, and his noble manner of living. There are a great many Persons of
Quality settled at _Zell_, who for a trifling Expence enjoy the Pleasures
of agreeable Society. They visit and regale one another very much, and are
not wanting in Civilities to Foreigners. Monsieur _de Schulenbourgh_[29],
Lieutenant-General of the _Hanoverian_ Horse, and Knight of the
_Prussian_ Order of the Black Eagle, is the Governour of this Town. He is
a Gentleman of good Extraction, of Behaviour, Noble, Polite, and Easy; and
though he is Father of a numerous Family, he affects to live grand, and
keeps a very good Table. One of his Sons is in the Service of _Prussia_,
the others are in that of the King of _England_. I mention them to you,
because they are worthy Gentlemen; and whoever knows them, cannot but
esteem them.
Here are a great many _French_ People, _Catholick_ as well as
_Protestant_, of whom the former have a Chapel, and the latter a Church;
but the Religion which is predominant, is the _Lutheran_. The last
Dutchess of _Zell_, of the Family of _Olbreuse_, being a _French_ Woman,
fill'd her Husband's Court and Guards with her own Countrymen; who were
even preferr'd before the Natives of _Zell_. I have been told that these
_Frenchmen_ really thought themselves so much at home, that there happen'd
to be one day no less than a dozen of 'em at Dinner at the Duke's Table,
who all except the Prince were _Frenchmen_; which one of them observing,
said to the Duke, _My Lord, this is really very pleasant; there is no
Foreigner here but you_!
In the Neighbourhood of this Town there's the Castle of _Ahlen_, where,
(about nine Years ago,) the unfortunate Daughter of the last Duke of
_Zell_, by Madamoiselle _d'Olbreuse_, ended her Days, after she had been
retir'd thither about thirty six Years: She had been promised
in Marriage to _Augustus-William_, the hereditary Prince of
_Brunswic-Lunenbourg-Wolfemhuttle_; but her Father the Duke, by the
Intrigues of the Princess _Sophia_, Dutchess of _Hanover_, marry'd her
against her Will, and against the Consent of her Mother, to the hereditary
Prince _George-Lewis_, who was afterwards King of _Great Britain_, by
Right of his Mother, and who died in the Year 1727, as he came to make
the Tour of his hereditary Dominions. She was sixteen Years old at her
Marriage with that Prince, who was then twenty-two.
Tho' there's a good deal of Heath between _Zell_ and _Hanover_, yet the
Country is very well cultivated; for the Inhabitants not only make Turfs
of the Heath for Fewel, but it serves also for Pasturage, and for Manure.
'Tis about five _German_ Miles from one Town to the other, and I travell'd
it in less than five Hours.
HANOVER, the Capital of the Electorate of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, is bigger
than _Zell_. The River _Leine_ divides it into the old and new Towns,
which are both encompass'd with Ramparts that scarce deserve the Name.
There is nothing very extraordinary in the Palace or Castle, which is
rather commodious than magnificent; and the Town of _Hanover_, generally
speaking, is but ill built. The most remarkable Structure in it, is the
_Roman Catholick_ Church, which was granted to those of that Communion by
_Ernest-Augustus_ of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg-Hanover_; that being one of the
Conditions which the Emperor _Leopold_ demanded of him when he honour'd
him with the Electoral Dignity. That Prince moreover engag'd to admit of
an Apostolical Vicar in his Dominions, and to give him leave to reside at
_Hanover_, as _Spiga_, who lately died at _Francfort_[30], did for many
Years. Divine Service is perform'd in this Church as regularly as in a
Cathedral; and they who officiate in it are Missionaries. The number of
Catholicks is very considerable; but few Persons of Quality are of that
Communion, the Nobility being all _Lutherans_.
When _George_ I. King of _Great Britain_ left his _German_ Dominions to
take possession of his Kingdom, he was willing that all Affairs at
_Hanover_ shou'd continue on the same footing as they were before he was
called to the Throne; and he left behind him Prince _Frederic_ his
Grandson, now Prince of _Wales_; who not only had a Drawing-Room every
Day, but the same Attendance as had the Elector before he was King.
His Majesty King _George_ II. has made no Alteration in the Establishment
of the King his Father. When he sent for the Prince of _Wales_ to
_England_, he order'd the Courtiers to continue their Assemblies at the
Castle; and that his Table shou'd always be serv'd in the same manner as
if he himself was at _Hanover_. His Majesty keeps up the same number of
Gentlemen, Pages, Domestics, and Guards; and the same number of Horses,
Grooms, &c. in his Stables. There's a _French_ Comedy acted three times a
Week at the Palace, to which all People are admitted _gratis_; and there
are frequently Concerts, Balls and Assemblies. The Gentlemen who do the
Court-Honours at these Entertainments, and who invite Persons to dine or
sup at the King's Table, are either M. _de Hardenberg_, the Grand Marshal,
or, in his absence, the Baron _de Gortz_[31], Chief Steward of the
Houshold; or else M. _de Rheden_, Captain of the Castle of _Hanover_.
In the King's absence, the Government is compos'd of a Council of State,
whereof M. _de Hardenberg_ is Chief or President; which meets every day in
an Apartment of the Castle. To this all the Courts of Justice in the
Dominions of _Hanover_ are subject, and accountable. The Council of State
receives its Orders immediately from the King; and they are counter-signed
either by the Count _de Bothmar_, or by M. _de Hattorf_, the two _German_
Ministers that attend his Majesty's Person.
The Count _de Bothmar_[32] is an old Gentleman, who for a long time
resided in quality of the Elector's Envoy at the Court of _England_,
where, by his prudent Management for his Master, he cherished the most
incontestable Right that a Prince can possibly have to a Crown; I mean,
the Voice of the People.
M. _de Hattorf_ is not only the Minister's Son, but has been his
Co-adjutor, for they had both the War-Office in their Province; for which
reason they were called _Louvois_ and _Barbesieux_, a Comparison which
does no Dishonour either to the one or to the other: for if the two
_Hattorfs_ have not made such a Blaze in the World, 'tis because they had
not a _Lewis_ XIV. for their Master, for they were not inferior to the
_French_ Ministers in Capacity, and Application to Business, and had not
their Pride and Arrogance.
M. _de Munchausen_ is one of those Ministers of State who bears the most
Sway. He is of a Temper beneficent, mild, civil, very candid, sober, and
religious. He lives with Dignity, and his House is as open to Foreigners
as any in the City.
The Marshal Baron _de Bulau_, is Commander in chief of the Forces[33]. He
has no manner of Dependance on the Council of State, and receives his
Orders immediately from the King, by M. _de Hattorf_ the Secretary at War.
The Promotion which the King makes of Officers is by the Recommendation of
M. _de Bulau_; and such as would enter into the Service must make their
Application to him. He serv'd with Distinction in the _Netherlands_, under
my Lord Duke of _Marlborough_. He has actually under his Command 18000
Men, which is the Complement of the King of _Great Britain_'s Forces, as
Elector. His Majesty indeed, keeps in pay 12000 _Hessians_,[34] and 4000
Men of the Troops of _Wolfenbuttle_. 'Tis true, those Forces are paid by
_England_, but to me it seems they are only to defend the King's Dominions
in _Germany_.
Tho' the Sovereign is absent, yet here are not wanting Amusements; there
being many good Families, and a number of amiable Persons.
The lovely Countess of _Delitz_, Niece to the Dutchess of _Kendal_, cou'd
not fail of Adorers, even in the most barbarous Countries; for the Charms
of her Mind are not inferior to the Beauty, Sweetness, and Gracefulness of
her Person.
No Lady can have a better Temper or Behaviour than the Baroness _de
Bulau_, Daughter-in-law to the Marshal, and Daughter to the late Countess
of _Platen_: her Husband is a worthy Gentleman, and keeps a very good
House.
The Count _de Platen_, hereditary Post-Master-General, is one of the
richest Subjects in the Electorate, and one that spends the most Money. A
Foreigner will always have cause to speak well of M. _de Rheden_, Captain
of the Castle, and M. _de Wagenheim_, the great Cup-Bearer. Messieurs
_d'Ilten_ live splendidly; and both the Brothers, the eldest of whom is a
Colonel of the Guards, are amiable and infinitely polite. If ever you come
hither, you will certainly have reason to be fond of their Company.
The Situation of _Hanover_ is very agreeable; and in its Neighbourhood are
several pretty Seats. Among these _Herenhausen_ (the House of the _Lord_,
or the _Master_) is a Castle which was built by Order of the Elector
_Ernest-Augustus_, the King's Grandfather. This House, to which a strait
Walk leads, bears no proportion to the Magnificence of its Gardens, which
are undeniably some of the finest in all _Europe_; being particularly
adorn'd with Water-Works that throw the Water up much higher than the
famous Fountain at _St. Cloud_, which was always look'd upon as the most
considerable of the kind[35].