AN UNKNOWN COUNTRY--PASSING THE BARRIER--CLEOPATRA'S
NEEDLES--FOXES--A GOOD RUN--OUR FOREST SANCTUARY--
ROUGHING IT--A BATH--A VARIED MENU.
We were up early the next morning, for we had perhaps a long journey
before us, the country we were about to penetrate being as unknown to
our guides as to ourselves; and no one could say when and where we
might find a suitable place for camping that night. All helped to
drive up and saddle the horses; their long rest and the rich grass in
the valley had done them good, and they were in very fair condition,
which was fortunate, as we might have some arduous climbs to face, and
pasture lands might be scarce among the mountains.
[Illustration: RAVINE ENTRANCE TO THE CORDILLERAS.]
The day before, the guides had been on a reconnoitring expedition,
with the object of finding the most practicable route towards the
interior, and having discovered a ravine, which appeared to wind in
the direction of the mountains, and which, at the same time, afforded
easy going for our horses, we resolved to make it our highway.
Accordingly, all being ready, we said good-bye to the plains, and,
fording the stream which flowed down the valley, we entered on the
winding ravine, full of curiosity as to what kind of country we were
now to break in upon.
The ravine was in itself a fit preparation for something strange and
grand. Its steep slopes towered up on either side of us to an immense
height; and the sunlight being thus partially excluded, a mysterious
gloom reigned below, which, combined with the intense, almost painful
silence of the spot, made the scene inexpressibly strange and
impressive. Its effect was intensified by the knowledge that since
these gigantic solitudes had been fashioned by nature, no human eye
had ever beheld them, nor had any human voice ever raised the echoes,
which, awakening now for the first time, repeated in sonorous chorus
the profane shouts of "Iegua! Iegua!" with which our guides drove the
horses along.
We hurried on, anxious to reach the mouth of the ravine, and behold
the promised land as soon as possible, but several hours elapsed
before we at last reached its farther end, and emerged from its
comparative gloom into the sunshine of the open. A glance showed us
that we were in a new country. Before us stretched a picturesque
plain, covered with soft green turf, and dotted here and there with
clumps of beeches, and crossed in all directions by rippling streams.
The background was formed by thickly-wooded hills, behind which again
towered the Cordilleras,--three tall peaks of a reddish hue, and in
shape exact facsimiles of Cleopatra's Needle, being a conspicuous
feature in the landscape. The califaté bushes here were of a size we
had never met on the plains, and were covered with ripe berries, on
which hosts of small birds were greedily feasting. The very air seemed
balmier and softer than that we had been accustomed to, and instead of
the rough winds we had hitherto encountered there was a gentle breeze
of just sufficient strength agreeably to temper the heat of the sun.
Here and there guanaco were grazing under the shade of a spreading
beech tree, and by the indolent manner in which they walked away as we
approached, it was easy to see that they had never known what it was
to have a dozen fierce dogs and shouting horsemen at their heels. But
soon we all dismounted round a huge califaté bush, and there we ate
our fill of its sweet juicy berries, taking a supply with us to be
eaten after dinner, mashed up with sugar, as dessert. Then we gaily
cantered on towards the hills, passing many a pleasant-looking nook,
and enjoying many a charming glimpse of landscape, doubly delightful
after the ugliness of the plains.
Numerous small lagoons, covered with wild-fowl of strange and novel
appearance, frequently came in our way, and by their shores basked
hundreds of the lovely white swans whose species I have already
mentioned. Unlike their comrades of the plains they appeared perfectly
tame, merely waddling into the water when we approached close up
alongside them, and never once attempting to fly away. I was greatly
struck by the thousands of ducks and geese that covered these lakes.
Crossing a broad mountain-stream which ran down from the hills on our
left, and disappeared into a mighty gorge stretching away into those
on our right, we still directed our march along the grassy plain which
led direct towards the three huge Cleopatra peaks rising from out of
the snow glaciers far ahead of us. The thickly-wooded slopes which we
could perceive in the distance filled us with eager longing to reach
them, as it was many a day since we had last seen trees of any kind.
In the vast forests which lay before us we promised ourselves a goodly
supply of fuel and many a roaring fire around the camp. On the way we
occasionally gave chase to the foxes which started up at our approach.
There are a great many of these animals in Patagonia, and one has to
be careful to put all leather articles in some safe place at night, or
else in the morning one is apt to find them gnawed to pieces by these
sly marauders. Their fur is very soft, and silver gray in colour. I
resolved to make a collection of their skins, and carry them back to
England to be made up into rugs and other useful articles. It is very
rarely that a dog can catch one of these foxes by himself: our best
ostrich hound, "La Plata," after an exciting chase of half an hour,
found himself outpaced and outstayed. So quickly can they twist, turn,
and double, that it is out of the power of one dog to equal them.
[Illustration: THE "CLEOPATRA NEEDLES."]
Whilst we were slowly jogging along, my horse, with a snort of terror
suddenly swerved violently on one side. Close to him there rose up a
magnificent ostrich, who, after one astonished gaze at our party,
turned and fled in the direction by which we had just come. With a
merry shout François was after him, followed by my brother and
myself. Loca and Leona, who had caught sight of the ostrich in a
moment, lost no time in straining every limb to come alongside the
fast-fleeting bird, who scudded away at a tremendous pace over the
rough uneven ground. Our progress on horseback was also by no means an
easy task, as the line taken by the ostrich presented many obstacles,
such as high thick bushes, sharp-pointed, half-hidden rocks, and
broad, deep chasms. These latter obstacles could only be negotiated at
certain places, as their sides were jagged and rotten; and woe betide
the horse who should fall into one of these deep, untempting-looking
bottoms. But when his blood is up, and the excitement of the chase at
its highest pitch, what keen sportsman cares to crane or wonder what
danger lies on the other side of the obstacle that confronts him? His
only thought is to get forward and keep a front rank in the merry
chase that goes gaily sweeping along. And so on we pressed as fast as
we could, and urged our horses to do their utmost. Fully entering into
the excitement of the moment, the game little beasts answered
willingly to our call, and in spite of the rough, difficult going, we
managed to keep the dogs and ostrich in sight.
"They'll soon have him now," calls out my brother to me, as a cloud of
feathers float away in the still air, torn from the bird's tail by La
Leona, who shakes her head to get rid of those that cling round her
mouth and clog her tongue and throat. The bird has begun to double,
but finds his match in the two clever little ladies at his side, and
before long succumbs an easy prey to them both.
This little incident lent a pleasant variety to the winding up of a
long tiring day; and full of triumph in the success of our hunt, we
trotted towards the camping-place our companions had chosen.
[Illustration: ENCAMPMENT IN THE CORDILLERAS.]
On our arrival we found active preparations going on in the culinary
department, and every one very busily engaged. Three huge fires blazed
merrily in front of my tent, and a little farther off a succession of
smaller ones indicated the spot where the cooks were employed in
preparing dinner. Over one of these hung a pot of soup, carefully
superintended by my husband; at another Storer was watching and
turning the roasting ribs of a guanaco, while at a third Gregorio
occupied himself in frying a rich steak of ostrich, and roasting three
or four of their wings as a _bonne bouche_, which was to succeed the
roast. Nor were Guillaume or I'Aria idle, as the goodly pile of
firewood that lay stacked up near each fire spoke volumes for their
activity and energy. After we had unsaddled our horses and turned them
loose to join their companions hard by, we refreshed ourselves with
maté, and then proceeded to take part in the general work and
arrangement of the camp. Mysteriously promising us something extra
good in the shape of a new dish, François retired into his tent,
dragging after him the ostrich which we had just killed. The result of
his efforts, he assured us, would produce a pleasant surprise, and an
agreeable change in the monotony of our daily diet. Though full of
curiosity as to what that result might prove, we judged it best to
leave him alone, remembering the proverb that "Too many cooks spoil a
dish." Collecting the rows of pack-saddles and articles of riding
gear, I proceeded to arrange them tidily, together with the numerous
sacks and baggage, in a corner of Storer's tent, and then gathering up
a roll of guanaco furs, turned my attention to the making up of our
beds. On the pampa it had always been a matter of some difficulty to
discover ground smooth enough whereon to lay out the beds, on account
of the rough, uneven nature of the plains; but on this occasion I had
no cause to grumble, for beneath the lofty spreading beech trees the
smooth, velvety, mossy turf afforded the softest and most luxurious of
feather beds in the world. Our couches were simple enough, as
doubtless the reader imagines. The ground supplied the want of a
bedstead or mattress, a single blanket occupied the place of a sheet,
and our guanaco capas served as covering, being remarkable for their
great warmth. With our saddles for our pillows, a complete and final
touch was given to the whole arrangement, and on these hard beds,
tired with our day's exertions, we would sleep as soundly and
comfortably as though they were the most luxurious spring mattresses
imaginable.
The beds arranged to my satisfaction, I next proceeded to go the round
of the camp to see if everything was in order, on finding which to be
the case, with a sigh of relief I felt that my work was over for the
day, and the time for rest arrived.
Roughing it may be all very well in theory, but it is not so easy in
practice. After a long tiring march, when you have been in the saddle
twelve or thirteen hours under a hot sun, it is by no means a light
task, on the arrival at your journey's end, to have to unload your
horses, pitch your tents, cook your dinner, clean your saddles and
bridles, unpack and remove the baggage, and place everything in order
and neatness, while it occupies a long and weary time. In England, on
your return every day from hunting, you come home tired and weary, no
doubt, but it is to a cosy hunting-box, where a warm room, a blazing
fire, an easy arm-chair await you, with servants in plenty to attend
to your wants, a refreshing hot bath, and the luxury of a clean change
of clothes. But all this is not forthcoming on the pampa, and before
you can rest, the whole business I have mentioned has to be gone
through, everybody, no matter who it is, taking his or her share of
work, while the thought of fatigue must be banished, and every one
must put his shoulder to the wheel, and undertake and accomplish his
separate task cheerfully and willingly. Only by so doing can things be
kept going in the brisk orderly manner they should.
Our camp had been pitched close to the bank of a lovely little
mountain stream, which made its appearance from out the thick woods
that rose to a great height behind us. The sound of its splashing
waters filled me with an irresistible longing for a plunge.
Accordingly, armed with a rough towel, I proceeded to follow its
winding course upwards, and through the dense foliage of the beech
trees I could make out its silver stream descending like a white
streak from an immense height. Presently I arrived at a spot where,
fed by a small cascade, a clear cool pool of water presented a most
convenient and inviting appearance for a bath. I lost no time in
undressing and indulging in the luxury of a plunge, which greatly
refreshed and invigorated me after the long tiring day I had
undergone.
On my return to the camp I found that dinner was quite ready. Nine
hungry human beings, and nine still hungrier dogs, require a good
substantial meal. Our _menu_ that night was neither mean nor small. As
it may interest my readers, I append it:--
Soup.--Guanaco Head, slices of Ostrich, and rice.--Roast ribs of
Guanaco.
Fried Ostrich Picane. (Back of the ostrich, resembling a very rich
Rumpsteak).
Roast Goose and Ducks.
Ostrich Wings.
Ostrich Liver and fat (consisting of square pieces of ostrich liver
and fat, toasted on a stick).
Blood Pudding.
Dessert.--Califatés, Coffee, Maté, Tea, Biscuits.
The blood-pudding proved to be the dish about which François had
observed so much secrecy and mystery. It was certainly exceedingly
good, and we were loud in praise of its merits. The ostrich liver and
fat, a new dish also, was most acceptable, and that night we drank the
health of François in a glass of whisky and water all round. Dinner
over, we replenished the numerous fires that burned in a semicircle in
front of our camp; and then, tired and weary, we sought our couches,
and, canopied o'erhead by the rustling trees, with the bright
moonlight shining down upon us, slept as sound and contented a sleep
as the fatigues we had undergone entitled us to.