EXCURSIONS INTO THE MOUNTAINS--MYSTERIES OF THE
CORDILLERAS--WILD-HORSE TRACKS--DEER--MAN THE
DESTROYER.
The first few days of our sojourn in the mountains were spent in
making short excursions into the different gorges that stretched away
inwards for miles and miles--far as the eye could reach. We were full
of curiosity to penetrate and fathom their hidden mysteries; but this
was out of the question, owing to the limited supply of provisions
which we were able to carry with us. In these solitary wanderings we
came across no sign or vestige of the haunts of human beings, and few
and far between were the animals that crossed our path. Occasionally,
from some jagged plateau or rugged height, we would catch a glimpse of
small deer or guanaco, and now and again a wild horse would peer at us
suspiciously from behind a huge rock, and then, with a neigh of
astonishment rather than fright, dash hurriedly off, its beautiful
mane and tail flowing in the breeze, giving it a grand, wild, and
picturesque appearance.
Musters tells us in his _Narrative of Patagonia_, that the Indians
fully believe in the existence of an unknown tribe, or of an enchanted
or hidden city, which, they superstitiously aver, lies concealed
somewhere in the recesses of these mountains.
Farther north the Araucanian Indians profess to having discovered in
their vicinity a settlement of white people who spoke an unknown
tongue. Numerous legends and stories are current amongst the
Patagonians, who all behold with awe and superstition the distant
wooded slopes and far-stretching glaciers of the Cordilleras, into
whose shades they never attempt to penetrate.
The Chilotes declare that in the western forests of the Cordillera, an
animal exists bearing the form of a wild man covered all over with
coarse shaggy hair. Tranco is the appellation by which it goes. It is
difficult to bring oneself to believe that amidst these immense
solitudes a species of human being does not exist. Imaginative minds
may conjure up all sorts of extraordinary fancies, and people unknown
regions with strange and fantastic figures; and it is hard to prevent
oneself from giving a kind of credence to these vague stories which
are told with so much confidence and belief by the inhabitants of the
country.
The hilly, undulating country which stretched away in the direction of
the three Cleopatra peaks filled us with an eager desire to explore
its unknown territory; and accordingly, accompanied by Gregorio and
François, we all set off on horseback early one morning, soon after
daybreak. The air was keen and invigorating, and we trotted along for
some time, following and skirting the line of forest which extended on
our right and in front of us as far as we could distinguish. Away on
our left stretched a bright green valley, gay with many-coloured
flowers, and watered by innumerable streams and water-courses, whilst
beyond rose high hills, covered with vegetation, and crowned in the
distance by thick impenetrable woods. Califaté bushes, loaded with
ripe berries of a great and unusual size, frequently brought us to a
halt, as it was impossible to resist their tempting and refreshing
aspect.
About midday, when the sun was at its height, and we began to feel the
effects of its hot, scorching rays, the valley through which we had
been pursuing our way suddenly came to an abrupt termination.
Breasting the hill which confined its limits, we halted on the summit
to give the horses a few moments' rest, and to contemplate in silence
and delight the lovely scene that lay stretched at our feet.
Of a totally different aspect was this new country on which we were
entering from that we had just quitted, for the woods closed in on all
sides, and huge masses of rocks rose from out their leafy tops, giving
the appearance of ruined strongholds to those who beheld them for the
first time. Sunny glades, carpeted by rich green grass, opened out
here and there, as though they had been cleared and fashioned by the
hand of man, while a lovely little stream, which made its appearance
from out of the woods on our right, continued its course towards a
deep ravine, which we could distinguish in the distance. Away to our
left, and surrounded by thick woods, glittered the clear sparkling
waters of an immense lake, which we judged to be about two miles
distant, and beyond all rose up like a huge frowning barrier, the
lofty snow-clad peaks of the Cordillera. Not a sound disturbed the
deathlike stillness which reigned over everything; no animal life was
stirring, and the impression conveyed to an eye-witness who beheld
this scene for the first time was a sense of utter loneliness and
desolation.
Descending the hill on which we had halted to breathe the horses, we
entered upon the woodland scene I have just described, and following
the course of the little brook that flowed towards the great ravine,
were not long in arriving at the edge of its steep perpendicular
descent. It proved to be a ravine of no ordinary size, for many
hundreds of feet below, its base was formed by what appeared to be a
tiny winding stream, but which a later expedition, of which I have yet
to speak, proved in reality to be a broad though shallow river. Far
away below us, to our right, roared an enormous cataract, which, half
hidden in the trees, left scarcely any part of itself visible, and
were it not for the clouds of spray that rose to a great height, an
eye-witness could not have distinguished its real position amidst its
leafy hiding-place.
[Illustration: "THE WILD-HORSE GLEN."]
We were not long in ascertaining that it would be impossible to get
horses down the steep precipitous sides of this great ravine, and
therefore reluctantly abandoned any hope of being able that day to
make any farther progress towards the three great peaks which still
towered in front of us. Directing our horses to the left, we
entered a long stretch of narrow woodland, which appeared to lead
in the direction of the lake we had distinguished a little time back.
It was not long before we struck upon a wild horse track, and
concluding that it was formed by these animals on their way to drink
at the lake, we followed its tortuous and many winding ways for some
time.
Frequently the brushwood became so dense, the trees so close together,
that we had to dismount and creep through the openings made by our
horses, having previously driven them through. Now and then the path
we were following would suddenly cease, and it would be some time
before we came upon its track again. At last we emerged from some
thick underwood into a broad clearing, and eagerly pushed forward.
Proceeding at a quicker rate than my companions, I was soon far ahead
of them; and in fear of being lost, and anxious to avoid such an
unpleasant _contretemps_, I drew rein, and dismounting, sat down to
await their arrival. Presently a cracking sound as of sticks breaking
close to me attracted my attention. Looking in the direction whence
the sound proceeded, I espied a species of deer, of a dark golden
colour, eyeing me with extreme astonishment. He was a fine buck, with
beautiful branching antlers, and large dark languishing eyes. Close
behind him cautiously peered two does, and a little farther off I
could make out several other animals of the same kind.
How I longed for a rifle, but of this firearm I knew we had not
brought one with us, and though I had a gun, it was not at hand, and
was being carried by Storer. Crawling away from the spot as quietly as
I could, I placed a good hundred yards between myself and the place
from which I had first caught sight of these animals, and then
springing to my feet, ran as hard as I could in the direction I judged
my companions were coming. As soon as they came in sight I endeavoured
by signs to get them to halt. They quickly perceived me, and guessing
what I wanted, immediately drew rein and waited for me to come up. I
lost no time in informing them of the discovery I had made, and taking
my gun, proceeded to regain as quietly and stealthily as possible the
spot I had lately quitted. The rest of my companions remained
stationary, waiting for the report of my gun, which was to bring them
all up.
Yes, there he was, a beautiful animal, still in the same attitude of
inquiring curiosity in which I had left him. Anxious to avoid spoiling
the head, I took aim behind the shoulder, and fired. The report was
followed by a crashing sound in the direction in which I had fired.
Into the glade some half-dozen deer bounded, and like lightning
disappeared into the opposite wood. When the smoke cleared away I
perceived the one at which I had fired on his knees, evidently unable
to proceed. Full of anxiety to place the poor beast out of his agony I
fired a second barrel at him, which had the effect of knocking him
over. Springing up immediately, however, he walked slowly away,
seemingly unconcerned and unhurt. I could not make out what was the
matter with myself and my gun. He had evidently been hit both times,
and yet seemed to be perfectly unconcerned at the whole thing. I could
not bring myself to fire again, but Gregorio did with his revolver,
and broke the unfortunate animals leg. Limping away on three, he went
and lay down under an overhanging rock, appearing more stupefied than
in pain. Disgusted at such butchery, I begged one of my companions,
all of whom had come up, to despatch the unfortunate beast, and my
husband, going close up to him, placed his revolver within a foot of
the deer's forehead and fired. Slowly it sank forward, stunned and
apparently lifeless, but when we came alongside it, it was still
breathing, and there was no mark to show that the bullet had
penetrated the skull. Here François came to our aid, and with the help
of his hunting-knife, the poor creature was put out of his misery.
As I wished to keep the skin, the coat of which was very thick and
long, Gregorio set to work to remove it. The process occupied some
time, and proved most difficult and tedious to accomplish. During our
stay in the Cordilleras we frequently came across these deer; but our
experience of their tameness, the great difficulty of killing them,
and the utter absence of sport which lay therein, prevented us from
ever again attempting to bring another down. The flesh was decidedly
good, and much to be appreciated after the monotonous diet of ostrich
and guanaco meat; but even with this inducement at hand, the golden
deer of the Cordilleras remained unmolested and sacred in our eyes for
the rest of the time we remained in their hitherto undisturbed and
peaceful solitudes. If regret could atone for that death, of which I
unfortunately was the cause, then it has long ago been forgiven; for,
for many a day I was haunted by a sad remorse for the loss of that
innocent and trusting life, which had hitherto remained in ignorance
of the annihilating propensities of man--that man who, directly he
sees something beautiful and rare, becomes filled with the desire to
destroy.
The shoulders, ribs, and head were packed on to the horses of Storer,
François, and Gregorio, the remainder being left as food for the dogs
and condors. Some dozen of the latter, having scented blood, were
already hovering high above our heads, and as soon as we were out of
sight would doubtless swoop down and make greedy feast on the remains
left by the dogs. Five minutes' riding brought us to the shores of the
great lagoon towards which we had been directing our steps. Here we
dismounted, and tethering our horses, left them to browse on the long
rich grass which grew luxuriantly and thickly all round. A couple of
hours were quickly and happily whiled away duck shooting. It was not
till late that night that we reached our camp in safety, tired and
hungry, but having thoroughly enjoyed our day.