A SURPRISE--A STRANGE SCENE--AN IDLE DAY--CALIFATÉ
BERRIES--GUANACO-STALKING--A DILEMMA--MOSQUITOES--A
GOOD SHOT.
The next morning I was pleasantly awakened by a bright ray of
sunshine, which forced its way through the opening in my tent, leaving
me little inclination to sleep any longer. I lost no time in getting
up, and stepped out, anxious to see what kind of country we had got
into under cover of the fog of the previous day.
For a moment I was quite bewildered by the contrast of the scene now
before me and the dreary impression the unfavourable weather
conditions had lent to the country on our arrival. I found we were
camped in a broad valley, which looked bright and smiling beneath a
clear blue sky and a warm sun. A slight breeze swept over the long
green grass, which was studded here and there with clumps of califaté
bushes, and an enlivening colour variety was given to the verdant
carpet by occasional tracts of white and yellow flowers. One end of
the valley was bound by some tall hills, covered with dark patches of
beech trees, and beyond these again, ridge above ridge, range above
range, the snow and glacier covered Cordilleras of the Andes towered
majestically to the sky. The air was marvellously clear; looking long
westward, I could gradually distinguish, in the haze of the distance,
over the mountains which first met my gaze, white snowy ranges, of
such height that they seemed to float in mid-air, and only after my
vision had acquired sharpness from long concentration, could I trace
their outlines basewards. But it was the sight at the near end of the
valley which most claimed my attention. From behind the green hills
that bound it rose a tall chain of heights, whose jagged peaks were
cleft in the most fantastic fashion, and fretted and worn by the
action of the air and moisture into forms, some bearing the semblance
of delicate Gothic spires, others imitating with surprising closeness
the bolder outlines of battlemented buttresses and lofty towers. The
bare rock which formed them was red porphyry, and the morning sun
glittering on it, lent it a variety of bright tints, purple and
golden, which were thrown into striking relief by the blue background
of the sky and the white masses of snow, which, in parts, clung to the
peaks. The abrupt flanks of these tall heights were scored with deep
gullies and ravines, and strewn with detached boulders of rock; but
nowhere was there any trace of vegetation, either bush or grass.
The suddenness with which this novel scenery burst upon me
considerably heightened its effect. But yesterday we had stood on the
plains, with their eternal monotony of colour and outline; last night
we had gone to bed, as we thought, in a similar dreary waste; and now,
as if by magic, from the bowels of the earth, a grand and glorious
landscape had sprung up around us, as totally different, in its
diversity of outline and colour, from that which only a few hours ago
had depressed and wearied us, as could well be imagined.
It was amusing to hear the exclamations of surprise with which my
companions greeted the scene, as one by one they came out of their
tents and gazed on the pleasant metamorphosis which had taken place
during our slumbers. We had grumbled a good deal the day before about
the country, and had anathematised it with many ill-tempered
expletives; but all that was now forgotten, and as we looked around us
we felt that our trouble had not been unrewarded.
Taking advantage of the fine weather, we spread our damp furs on the
bushes, and, thanks to the wind and sun, they were soon dry. Breakfast
over, my brother started off with his rifle to explore the peaks at
the end of the valley, whilst we others stretched ourselves on our
furs under the shade of some tall bushes, and with the help of books
and pipes, a little desultory conversation, and the lazy contemplation
of the fair scenery before us, we managed to pass away the hot hours
of noon pleasantly enough.
When it got cooler, and we had drank our fill of idleness, we found
plenty to occupy ourselves with. There were guns to be cleaned. I had
my journal to write up; and, although I am no good hand with the
needle, the rough usage my apparel had lately received made some
attempts at sewing and patching imperative. The guides busied
themselves in repairing saddle-gear, making reins or lassos from
guanaco hide, and similar work. Our English servant Storer, who had
somehow created for himself the reputation of one expert in the
stuffing of birds and the curing of skins, was busy with several
unsavoury smelling specimens of the latter, which he had been carrying
about him for some days, having to-day, for the first time, leisure to
operate upon them. Mr. B. went off to make a sketch of our camp and
its picturesque surroundings, and in searching for a suitable site
came across a califaté bush, the blue berries on which were almost
ripe. He brought back a capful, and though we found them rather acid,
mashed up with plenty of sugar they made a very nice refreshing dish,
which was especially welcome to us after our late uniform diet. In the
long grass near the stream that flowed down the valley we found some
wild celery, which, put in the soup, was a decided improvement on the
dried "Julienne" we had brought with us, and of which by this time we
had but little left. Just as we were getting rather anxious about him,
as it was already near sunset, my brother came back from his excursion
to the Porphyry Peaks. Arriving at their base much later than he
expected, having been deceived in the distance, he had only had time
to climb about half-way up them, but even at that height had got a
splendid view of the country beyond, his accounts of which made us
eager to penetrate into it as soon as possible. But as our packhorses
required rest, this had to be deferred for a couple of days yet.
The next day a hunting-party was organised. Neither our guides nor
ourselves knowing whether any game was to be found in the country we
were about to enter, it was necessary that we should take a good
supply of meat with us. We made a circle in the usual manner, and were
successful, as far as ostriches were concerned, inasmuch as, after
some good runs, we managed to kill three.
Having observed a herd of guanaco grazing in a valley at some
distance, those of us whose horses were still tolerably fresh then set
out to try and get one, the meat of three ostriches not being
sufficient to last ourselves and dogs for more than two days. The dogs
were all too tired with their previous exertions to be of any use to
us, so we had to rely solely on our rifles. This being the case, it
was necessary to stalk the herd with great precautions, and this we
proceeded to do, choosing our ground carefully, so as to keep out of
their sight. But we had not gone far when we heard a shrill neigh
close by, and looking round, we saw a guanaco standing on the crest of
a hill overlooking the valley. He had scarcely uttered his cry when it
was repeated at a little distance off by another watchful sentinel,
and then they both slowly cantered off, looking back at us as they
went along, and neighing loudly at intervals. The herd, meanwhile,
warned of the approach of danger, leisurely trotted up the escarpment
on the other side of the valley, and as leisurely disappeared over the
plain. My husband took a vindictive pot-shot at one of the retreating
sentinels, but missed him; and we had to make the best of our
disappointment, and search for some less watchful herd. In this we had
considerable difficulty, the guanacos on this particular day appearing
to be shyer than we had ever known them. At last, after a great deal
of fruitless stalking, my husband got a shot at a little knot of four
or five, who were standing together, almost out of range. One fell,
and the others took to their heels. With a cry of triumph we galloped
up to the wounded one, but to our dismay, at our approach, he sprang
to his feet and started off full speed after his companions, to all
appearance unhurt. Spurring our horses, we followed closely in his
wake, down steep ravines, up hills, over the plains, at times losing
him altogether, but always catching sight of him again, going as fresh
as ever, till at last we began to despair of ever running him down.
One by one my companions dropped off, till presently only my husband,
Mr. B., and myself, were left in the chase. Had he not been so
palpably hit, we should have desisted too; but it seemed a pity,
having gone so far, to give in, so we kept on, hoping to tire out our
prey by sheer persistence. But gradually, and no wonder, our jaded
horses began to show signs of exhaustion; we had run them almost to a
standstill, and, reflecting on the distance we had to ride back to the
camp, we were just going to rein in, when the guanaco suddenly stopped
and lay down. Sure now of getting him, we pushed on towards him. But
when we had got to within about six yards of him, up he got, and
galloped off again, distancing us at every stride. Hesitating what to
do, we kept in his wake, though all the time we were wishing we had
never started after him. Slower and slower our panting horses
struggled towards a ravine, down the side of which the guanaco had
disappeared. We came to its edge and looked down. The guanaco was
nowhere to be seen. We were at a loss to imagine what could have
become of him. He had not climbed the other side, or we should have
seen him emerge on the plain, nor could he have gone along the ravine,
either to the right or the left, as we commanded a view of it in both
directions for a long distance. In this dilemma we were staring
open-mouthed with astonishment about us, when something moved in the
long grass below, and directing our steps thither we came upon our
guanaco lying stretched out in a pool of blood. The movement that had
drawn our attention to him had evidently been his last effort, for he
was now quite dead. Examining him, we found the bullet had entered his
side, and passing through the lungs and lights, had lodged near the
spine; and yet, thus severely wounded, he had gone quite ten miles at
a cracking pace! Later on we experienced still more extraordinary
instances of the toughness and tenacity of life of these animals, in
comparison with whom the cat with its nine lives is absolutely
nowhere. Having cut up the guanaco, and distributed its meat on the
saddles of our horses, we turned back towards our camp; and a long
ride we had before we got there. I'Aria, we found, had also killed a
guanaco, and we had therefore plenty of meat to last us, should we
have difficulty in getting game in the Cordilleras.
The next day was passed in idleness. It was extremely hot, scarcely a
breath of wind stirring, and in the evening we were rather bothered by
mosquitoes, this being the first acquaintance we made with them in
Patagonia. During the day a bird was seen hovering over the camp at an
immense height, which we were told was a condor. It was so high up
that it looked scarcely bigger than an ordinary hawk. Taking advantage
of a moment when it hung perfectly motionless, my husband had a shot
at it, and, by a marvellous fluke, the ball took effect, and down the
creature came, growing bigger and bigger as it fell, till at last,
reaching the earth with a loud thud, there it was, the most gigantic
bird I had ever seen. We found it measured twelve feet from wing to
wing. The most distinctive feature of the condor is the white down
ruff which encircles the neck two or three inches below the head,
which latter is completely bare of feathers and repulsively ugly. In
the female bird the colour of this ruff is black.
This night the mosquitoes became a positive nuisance. I tried all
kinds of stratagems to protect myself from them--such as tying my
handkerchief over my face, or burying myself under my furs, but
between being smothered and bitten, I preferred the latter evil.
Similarly, the plan we adopted of lighting some damp grass in the
tent, so as to smoke our trying enemies out, had ultimately to be
abandoned in favour of passive endurance of the inevitable. I quite
envied old I'Aria. Throughout the night, whilst from all sides
exclamations and expletives of varying irritability and force were
continually to be heard, the placid snore which floated from his tent
showed that, thanks to his parchment skin, he was enabled to bear the
sting of the outrageous mosquito with serene indifference.