_Hermanstadt_ is a fair city, consisting of well proportioned houses,

regularly plaistered and covered with brick; and is incompassed with an

intire brick wall, and that again with the water either of a mote, or

river, which surrounds it. Over the gate, by which we entered, is the

statue of _Hermannus_, the founder of the place. It is designed to be

yet farther fortified by the Germans; for which end they are now marking

out the place of a citadel, which they propose to build so strong and

regular, as thereby to curb not only this city, but the whole province.

It is intirely inhabited by Saxons, and consequently by professors of

the Lutheran or Augustan confession. They have here three churches, of

which the cathedral is large and well adorned. The General, and German

garrison, which now consists of twelve hundred men, as likewise a few

other papists, are fain to be contented with a private chapel. General

_Rabutin_ is a comely, courteous, and facetious gentleman, of severe

discipline, and prudent management of the Imperial soldiery, which

thro this whole province, to the number of about ten thousand men, is

committed to his charge. He is of French extraction, and was forced to

fly while young, on account of a duel, from his native country to the

court of _Vienna_; where after long service he at length obtained favour

of the Princess of _Holstein_ then wife to Chancellor _Sinsendorff_; who

after that minister’s death condescended to marry him, and so raised him

to his present pitch of fortune. The civil government is in the hands

of the _Judex Cibiniensis_, whose jurisdiction reaches not only over

this city, but even the whole Saxon district. Next to him is the _Consul

Cibiniensis_, whose government is confined within the city. And besides

these there is a senate of about sixteen, and then a commonalty of

about an hundred men. The place in Latin is called _Cibinium_, from the

adjoining river _Cibin_.

Before eleven a clock we again take up our quarters at _Visakna_, that

is, _Saltzburg_, so called from the _salt mines_; which I visited this

afternoon, in company with the minister of the place, _Joannes Nagy

Borosnyai_ of the Helvetian confession. The salt is here dug, and

cut into stones (as they call them) of a square figure, and about an

hundred pound in weight. Being so prepared in the cavern, which at the

bottom extends itself very wide in the manner of a dome, they are drawn

up by cables, of which one winds round an adjoining machine drawn by

four horses, and the other unwinds at the same time. The pit itself is

square, lined within with planks, as far as the earthy soil reaches,

and extending afterwards to the depth of about an hundred yards. These

stones are afterwards laid up in magazines, to be transported on occasion

by the _Maros_ into the _Danube_, and thence vended into Turkey or

Germany for the use of the Emperor, who is the sole proprietor of all

the natural mines, with which this province abounds. The above mentioned

minister here gave me some _gemmae salis_, as pellucid as ordinary

crystal. He is a man well learned, and has traveled into many countries,

particularly England. At the same place I likewise received a present of

some _specimina metallica_, namely gold, cinnabar, antimony, and others;

which were sent me by a gentleman, named _Samuel Koloseri_, the Emperor’s

general inspector of the Transylvanian mines.

May xix.

We depart hence for _Tsanad_ and arrive there before twelve a clock; from

whence his Excellency designing for _Enyed_ by the way of _Balasfalva_,

Mr. Montague, Mr. _Gangain_, and myself take this opportunity of steping

out of the way to see _Alba Julia_, or _Wissenburg_. We therefore hire a

post calash by five a clock in the afternoon, and it being distant three

long Hungarian miles in dirty way, we scarce arrive there by twelve at

night, having near the city crossed the _Maurusius_ over a wooden bridge.

In our way thither we saw a gang of _Zingans_, or gypses, common in this

and the neighbouring provinces, as well as Turkey.

May xx.

His Excellency continued his journey this day to _Balasfalva_; and in the

morning we at _Abba Julia_ wait on the governor, Count _Banti_, a worthy

and courteous protestant nobleman, but for many years weakened and

tormented with the colic. We were conducted to him thro the room, where

the _comitia totius Transylvaniae_ are now held; and where Count _Seau_,

commissary for his Imperial Majesty, solicites the states for raising of

subsidies, and proposes other orders to them from the court of _Vienna_.

This done, we visit likewise Count _Seau_; who was so complaisant as

to shew us the castle where he dwells, being a magnificent palace, and

lately the residence of the princes of Transylvania. At the same time we

viewed the large Calvinist church adjoining thereto, which is a lofty

and stately fabric, but has suffered much from the Tartars, who defaced

the fair monuments, and burnt the tower, in the year sixteen hundred

and fifty eight. It is now fortified with a ditch and rampart, which is

likewise usual all over Transylvania. The above mentioned monuments are

of _Joannes Corvinus_, commonly called _Huniades_; of Queen _Isabella_,

and her son _Ladislaus_; of _Sigismund_, and _George Ragotzi_, together

with the famous _Gabriel Bethlen_. The same morning we paid a visit to

the bishop of the reformed church in Transylvania, who resides here,

and is likewise pastor of the place, by name _Stephanus Vespreni_. He

is an old man, seems decayed in his parts, and is troubled with a palsy

in his tongue. With him we saw the professor of the _Schola Albensis_,

which in the year sixteen hundred seventy two was translated hither from

_Patak_ in Hungary. He is a learned, curious, and laborious man, teaches

divinity, natural philosophy, the tongues, and mathematics; has traveled

into England and other countries, and is a great admirer of the English;

for which reason his study is full of our books, and he both writes,

and speaks, and even teaches our language once a week to his scholars.

His name is _Kaposi Samuel_, and was made _S. Theologiae Doctor_ by a

_diploma_ from the Prince of Orange. These visits performed, we repair to

Count _Banti’s_ to diner, where we were honoured with a splendid feast;

the governor keeping his chamber. There sat at table the Lady governess,

who is of the family of _Bethlen_, with Countess _Bethlen Samuel_,

Count _Bethlen Nicolas_ chancellor of the states of Transylvania, Count

_Apór_ treasurer, Count _Holler_ president of the states (the two last

papists) together with Count _Telchi_, _Joannes Sacks_ the _Judex regius

Cibiniensis_, with Count _Seau_, and some others. After diner we spent

some time with professor _Kaposi_, and at night supped with Count _Seau_.

May xxi.

His Excellency staid this whole day at _Balasfalva_; and we the morning

at _Alba Julia_, which was antiently called _Apulum_[119], where we

imployed ourselves in viewing some Roman sculptures, and copying the

three following inscriptions.

I. O. M. ET DIIS

PENATIBVS

SCAVRIANVS

MINERVAE TIB.

JVLIVS NOVIA

NVS II ... LEG.

POSVIT

PRO SALVTE DO

MINI NOSTRI

SANCTISSIMI AN

TONINI PII AVGVS

TI NYMPHIS NOVIS[120]

SACRVM RVFRI

VS[121] SVLPICIA ...

LEG. XIII. G ...

ANIO

At midday we dined with Count _Seau_, and by two a clock taking leave of

the governor, we set forward in a calash for _Enyed_[122], two Hungarian

miles distant from hence, where we arrived before seven, the road lying

all the way near the banks of the _Maurusius_.

May xxii.

We take a calash this morning, and proceed about an hour from _Enyed_ to

meet his Excellency, at the place where he crossed the _Maurusius_ by

flat boats; which done, we wait on him back to _Enyed_, and there arrive

about one a clock. After diner I visited the school and college of this

place, which is reputed the most flourishing of those, that belong to

the reformed Calvinist church in Transylvania. It has three professors,

one of philosophy, _Stephanus Kolosvari_, who has traveled into England;

another of divinity, _Stephanus Engedi_, a learned man, who gave me a

popish book, concerning the Emperor’s treatment of the reformed churches

in Hungary; and a third of the Greek tongue, logic, and history, _Fr.

Pariz-Papa_, a physician, who presented me with some printed tracts of

his own, and a manuscript _Itinerary_ of Dr. _Basire_ prebendary of

Durham, left by him in _Alba Julia_, where he professed divinity during

the late usurpation in England.

May xxiii.

We proceed three Hungarian miles from _Enyed_ to _Therda_, where we

arrive about one a clock, and find it a dirty ill built town, but

remarkable for its salt pits. It has two Calvinist churches, with one

appropriated to the Unitarians. The town stands upon the _Aranyas_,

antiently the _Chrysolas_, in which the _Zingans_ find gold dust,

principally after rain.

May xxiv.

It being Whitsunday, his Excellency halted this day, and in his lodgings

had divine service and a sermon. After diner we visit the salt pits,

which altogether resemble those of _Visakna_, except that the salt seems

somewhat clearer and stronger. Returning we find the following Roman

inscription.

ISIDI

ET SERAPI

C. IVL. ANN

ISONVS ...

LEG. V. M. HO.

ET FL. APO

LINARIA ...

EIVS V. L. S

May xxv.

We proceed three Hungarian miles to _Clausenburg_, the _Zeugma_ of

the antients, by the Hungarians called _Kolosvar_, and in Latin

_Claudiopolis_. Here Governor _Banti_ met my Lord half a mile out of the

town, and treated him at diner; after which taking leave, he presented

him with a set of six fine coach horses. It is a fair city with a broad

and straight street; but still retains on the houses and churches the

marks of a dreadful fire, which about five years since almost entirely

consumed it. It is seated upon the first branch of the river _Samos_, and

is entirely surrounded with an antient thick wall, on the inside of which

I was shewn the two following inscriptions, the latter whereof has the

characters beautifully cut.

FORTVNAE AVG.

V L P. MASCV

LINVS VTE. EX

SIGNIF. LEG. V. M.

TE EC. COL. AP. PRO

SA. SVA. TE. SVOR. PL

D. M.

M. AVREL ... PAPIA .. AVG. COL. N. AP[123].

VIXIT ANNIS LX

AVRELIA BONA CONIVX MA

RITO ER. H. CIENO ... VM[124] CV

RAVIT

The Unitarians, who are one of the sects received in Transylvania, have

here established their principal seat. I conversed with one of them,

_Stephanus Stanizlo_, professor of philosophy, with whom I visited their

_plebanus_, or chief pastor, and saw their church and college. I likewise

visited the Calvinist pastor, as also their church and college, where I

saw _M. B. Nemethi_ their professor of philosophy, _Sam. Nemethi_ the

divinity professor being absent. In several public places of the city I

observed antient dates of time, particularly over one of the gates, where

the year was marked, with these characters, [Illustration] that is 1477;

and over the Unitarian college thus, [Illustration], which is 1476[125].

Here Count _Bethlen’s_ commission ending, his Excellency is provided for

by Baron _Vesselini_.

May xxvi.

We stay this day at _Clausenburg_. The next we proceed two Hungarian

miles to _Erdicurestúr_, where I lodge in a poor Valach house. And the

day following we make the like progress thro woods and narrow vales to

_Balashaza_, upon the river _Almasch_.

May xxix.

Two more Hungarian miles thro the like way bring us to _Zilak_, a

reformed Calvinist village, where I visited the chief pastor, _Stephanus

Foris Debreezeni_. Within half an hour of this place we passed certain

mountains very woody, but not exceeding high, which part Transylvania

from Hungary; after which we now enter into those parts of Hungary, which

lately gave part of his title to the prince of Transylvania.

May xxxi.

Passing two Hungarian miles thro a country more open and well improved,

we arrive at _Somlyo_; in which there is an old palace, once a seat of

residence for the kings of Hungary. Here the guards and commissary is

again changed, _Franciscus Trantzeni_, an Hungarian gentleman, now taking

that charge. As we continued in this town the following day, I had an

opportunity of conversing with the minister, whose name is _Zovány_.

June i.

We set forward three Hungarian miles to _Margarita_, and in the way

cross the _Krasna_, near which are the limits that terminate the parts

of Hungary. The soil is here luxuriantly rich, well varied with pasture

and intervening woods, and everywhere adorned with damask roses, growing

wild on short shrubs. Part of my time was here employed in discoursing

with the minister, _Johannes Banki_. But having now passed thro

_Transylvania_, as well as the parts of _Hungary_ subject to the same

government, it is here proper to recollect some general observations

relating to this province.

_Transylvania_, which for many years had been tributary to the Turks, and

consequently under the protection of that empire, which still allowed

them the choice and government of their own princes, was in the year

1687, under the conduct of the Duke of _Lorrain_, subjected to the arms

of the Emperor; and thereupon by capitulation they resigned themselves to

the Germans, under whom they have since continued, tho as yet the Emperor

has assumed no distinct title from thence. He has ordinarily in garrison

here about twelve regiments, which since the peace of _Carlowítz_ serve

rather to curb the inhabitants, than to awe the neighbouring Turk. To

this end they are now preparing a strong citadel in _Hermanstadt_, and

designing others in proper places, on pretence of charges due to these

forts and the standing militia. The Emperor exacts yearly severe taxes,

of which they generally complain, as being four times more than was

exacted by the Turk. For whereas they then paid the yearly tribute and

exaction of about two hundred thousand _floreni Rhenenses_, there is this

year particularly demanded from them, in the present assembly of the

government at _Alba Julia_, the sum of one million forty thousand six

hundred, which is charged for the following particulars. The

_Quantum militare_, 750,000.

_Ad fortalitia_, 100,000.

_Debitum principis Duca_[126], 65,600.

_Bonificationes superoneratis_, 60,000.

_Ad salarium camellariae_, 15,000.

_Inevitabiles extraordinariae expensae_ 50,000.

These subsidies are demanded at the assembly in the Emperor’s name,

by his commissary, Count _Seau_; and the care of levying and raising

it is incumbent on the governor, the chancellor, the treasurers, the

_assessores tabulae regiae_, with other officers and members of the

assembly. Thus the civil government of the province is committed to the

Transylvanian nobility, distinguished by the officers abovementioned; but

the military government is, in the hands of General _Rabutin_, who holds

the province to a rigid and exact obedience.

Transylvania is in the hands of three distinct people. First the

_Szekeli_, which are otherwise corruptly wrote _Sciculi_, _Siculi_,

or _Scytuli_[127]. The second are the _Saxones_. And the third are

the _Hungari_. The first and third of these speak the same Hungarian

language, and are _Hunns_ of the same original, only settled in this

country at different times. The _Saxons_ speak intirely the German Saxon

language, from which nation they are a colony, and settled here under

_Geysa_ the second King of Hungary.

They have each of them their distinct laws, customs, and privileges, and

are severally divided after this manner. First the _Szekeli_ into seven

_szeks_, namely: _Meros-szék_, _Udvarhel-szék_, _Harom-szék_, _Kesdi Orba

Sepsi-szék_, _Csik-szék_, _Gyorgy-szék_, and _Arangus-szék_. Over each of

these seats preside so many captains; and being a warlike robust people,

still retaining the ferity of the Scythians, of which the whole body of

the _Hunni_ was at first a colony, they have been always exempted from

taxes and duties to the government, except only the service of war upon

occasion under their respective captains. But of late the Emperor has

persuaded them to submit to the like taxes and duties, with all other his

Transylvanian subjects. On account of their not holding their lands of

the government, there is a peculiar custom obtaining among them, that in

defect of heirs their estate escheats not to the government, but to the

next neighbour.

The _Saxons_ have in like manner their seven seats alloted from their

first settlement, namely: _Szerdaky-szék_, _Szeben-szék_, _Brassoy-szék_,

_Medyes-szék_, _Segyvar-szék_, _Bestereze-szék_, and _Erdovidek-szék_.

Each of these seats have their capital city, called _Regia et libera

civitas_. Over this city, and the seat or district belonging to it,

presides a _judex regius_, called in their language, _konings rickter_.

But the authority and prerogative of the _Judex Cibiniensis_, that is of

_Hermanstadt_, extends itself over the several Saxon seats; except that

he of _Brassow_ or _Cronstadt_ pretends in many cases an exemption, which

has been allowed, because of its too great distance from the tribunal of

_Szeben_, or _Hermanstadt_. Besides the authority of this judge, there

is a subordinate government in each city by a senate, which ordinarily

consists of about sixteen, and a centumvirate or commonalty, tho it

seldom contains a complete hundred. Each in their several districts have

the _jus gladii_, and all other prerogatives of an intire jurisdiction.

The third and richer part of Transylvania, possessed by the _Hungarians_,

is supposed and called the seat of the only Transylvanian nobility; and

accordingly it is divided into seven _comitatus_, or residences, of

its several courts, namely: The _comitatus Huniadensis_, _Albensis_,

_Thordensis_, _Claudiopolitanus_, _Interior et Exterior Zolnokiensis_,

_Doboczensis_, and _Krasnaiensis_. Now each of these counties has four

_comites_, of which two are called _supremi_, and two _inferiores_; in

whose hands, together with other nobles under them, remain the whole

jurisdiction and possession of their respective counties; the other

inhabitants being not only tenants, but subjects, as they call them,

and in some manner slaves to their respective nobles, to whom they

ordinarily owe the work of three, and sometimes of more days in the week.

Besides these, the _Valachi_ are every where in great numbers intermixted

among the Transylvanian nations, but have no jurisdiction or dominion of

their own; and therefore they remain as nourishers of cattle, and in that

service slaves and subjects to the rest. And not only _Valachs_[128],

but likewise (tho in lesser numbers) there are found up and down in

Transylvania, Rascians, Muscovites, Armenians, Jews, and others.

Those called the received religions in Transylvania, that is, those who

above the space of an age have obtained the protection of their princes

under oath, and of the Emperor under articles upon their late subjection,

are four; the Roman Catholic; the Lutheran; the Calvinist, which is here

called peculiarly the Reformed; and the Unitarian. The first of these

is more frequent in _Szekulia_, but yet not so prevalent as to possess

even a tenth part of all Transylvania. The second, or Lutheran, is

common to all the Saxon nation in this province. The third flourishes

in _Szekulia_, and the _comitatus Hungarici_. The fourth prevails here

and there likewise in the same countries, but those who profess it are

not so numerous in either. However they have a flourishing college at

_Clausenberg_, together with a large church; tho neither for beauty,

nor the number of its communicants, equal to that of the Calvinist

confession. These several religions are well known, and distinguished

by their faith and principles, all over Europe. I shall therefore only

say this concerning the discipline of the three last, that their several

parishes collected into distinct dioceses are subject to their respective

seniors; and these seniors, in their order, are likewise subject to a

provincial bishop, who has his court, in which he judges matrimonial and

other spiritual causes, and has also the sole power of ordaining, as

likewise of calling and presiding over their yearly synod. And to this

synod there is adjoined a consistory, which is in the nature of an upper

house, and a council to the bishop.

The Lutheran churches are in many places splendid, adorned with organs

and pictures, and little differing from the form of our larger churches,

except that the altar is immoveable, and built of stone, and sometimes

too profusely painted. Their worship consists of forms of prayers, then

hymns, after these lessons and sermons, and lastly prayers and concluding

hymns. The worship of the Unitarians exactly corresponds with that of

the Calvinists. These latter have sermons twice a week, besides Sundays,

as also morning and evening service throughout the week, at which appear

large and devout congregations in many places. Their service is a metre

psalm, a prayer from the pulpit, and then concludes with another psalm.

They have a form of prayer, and an injunction of their bishop to make

use of no other; but the custom of most ministers has introduced the use

of their own premeditated devotions, and accordingly the people begin

to disesteem those, who confine themselves to the form. The Lutherans,

Calvinists, and Unitarians live peaceably with one another; but are not

admitted to each others communion of Christ’s body, without a special

declaration of conformity. The Lutherans in some places consecrate a

wafer, and in other places leaven bread. They likewise have auricular

confession, but abuse it not, as the Papists. Their main difference from

the Calvinists consists in their avowed corporeal ubiquitarian presence.

Among other known tenets of the Unitarians, by which they take away the

force of the Christian sacraments, tho they generally use infant baptism

not to give scandal to the Calvinists, yet they rather wish to delay it

till the age of twelve years or upwards, and often practice accordingly.

These three protestant religions remain as yet in the undisturbed

profession of their faith. But upon several late encroachments of the

Jesuits, and other priests, in confidence of the popish government, to

which they are subject; upon the withdrawing of the tithes usually paid

to the protestant ministers from the salt mines, and now given to popish

monks; and lastly upon the care, which is taken by the court of Vienna,

to supply all offices of the province with papist ministers: upon these

several accounts, I say, the whole reformed people of Transylvania,

especially the Calvinists, begin to be under great apprehensions,

and from the governor to the meanest gentleman, earnestly embraced

this occasion of recommending their cause to the good services of his

Excellency at the Imperial court; after which they implored the prayers

and good wishes of the church of England, and in many places took a

solemn melancholy leave of us, as if they were just entering upon a

martyrdom.

The religion of the Valachs, Muscovites, Armenians, Rascians, and others,

is that of their respective nations in their proper seats and countries.

And it may be farther noted in relation to the religion of Transylvania,

that as in Hungary, so here likewise, the Jesuits, who were before

excluded by a positive article, have now an express liberty of entering

and setling in this province. Nor can I omit to remark the great and

blameable facility both of the Calvinists, and Lutherans, in matters of

divorce.

After the religion of Transylvania, the natural soil of the country falls

under consideration; which is luxuriantly rich, well cultivated, full of

inhabitants, and conveniently distinguished with a sufficient quantity

of wood, hills, and water. The surface of the earth is almost every

where black, without the least stone to be observed in many places; and

in several tracts so fertile, as not to require the advantage of dung,

except only some parts of _Siculia_ where it is used. Besides all kinds

of grain, which grow on the surface of the earth, within it abounds

with veins of metals, minerals, and fossils of all sorts, particularly

of gold; so that, as I was informed by the Emperor’s inspector of his

mines, there was last year dug here to the value of twenty five thousand

_zechins_. But among other fossils the native cinnabar is most rare, and

the quicksilver which is here found to perfection. Salt is dug in several

places, in the manner described above[129]; by which a large revenue

accrues to the Emperor, to whom the property of all mines belongs. But in

the mean time the people suffer in the price of this commodity; for since

their late subjection to the Emperor, a stone of salt weighing about an

hundred pounds can scarce be bought for three florins, whereas heretofore

three stones of salt were sold for one florin. The money current in

Transylvania is that of the Emperor, the _quarts_ of Poland, with some

other coins. The reports related by some, who were eye witnesses,

concerning diverse particles of gold found in the products of their

vineyards, both here and about the celebrated mountain of _Tokái_, are

very remarkable; of which I shall only mention these following. A piece

of gold is said to have grown to a vine, instead of the green tendrel,

by which it takes hold of the adjoining trees, or other substance that

supports it. Pure gold was found in a grape, instead of its ordinary

natural stone. Small gold drops were observed to adhere to the skin of

a grape. And even an intire grape had been seen to consist of a perfect

coat of gold.

As to the temper and disposition of the inhabitants, they appear cordial

and hospitable, drink almost continually, and eat plentifully, are

unpolite but importunate in their civility, and even the vulgar sort

usually speak Latin; they are of a robust constitution, and principally

the _Siculians_, who have likewise a fierce and stately mein. Their habit

is a short waistcoat made very close to the body[130], and sleeves with

flaps to them, that come over the backs of their hands. Their breeches

are likewise close to their thighs, and from thence continued down in the

form of a stocking to their feet. But on their legs they commonly wear

yellow or red boots, to which are constantly fixed spurs, often three

inches long. Over their waistcoat, when they go abroad, they throw a

loose but short fur vest, which is either embroidered, or adorned with

silver loops, on each side before. The habit of the women, who for the

most part are beautiful and courteous, is a close narrow bodice, and

from thence petticoats, as usual with us in England; but over their arms

they wear loose linen sleeves, resembling those of a bishop’s rochet.

Their head dress is low, and among those of the better sort richly

adorned with pretious stones; much resembling some old English pictures,

particularly those of _Henry_ the eighth’s wives. They likewise wear

over their shoulders the same sort of fur vest, as the men; but the

inferior sort are usually drest, when abroad, in a long and loose black

mantle, reaching from their shoulders down to the ground, and all round

gathered into deep and numberless folds, not unlike the gowns worn by

the islanders in the _Archipelago_. Maids likewise wear a black ring of

velvet on their head, which they call a crown, and resembles the figure

of an hat without brims. With regard to matrons, their law formerly

admitted no proof of adultery, unless under the eye witness of twenty

four persons at least; which in a virtuous age was an egregious testimony

to the chastity of their women, but in a vitious one must needs prove too

great an encouragment to that heinous sin. The Hungarians and Siculians

have an odd fashion of shaving their head round the lower part, and

leaving the hair at the top, which afterwards they tie into a knot, and

let it hang over one or other of their temples. This custom they might

possibly have received of old from the Sicambrians (who once built the

city _Sicambria_, and settled a colony there) since they were antiently

famed for the like manner of knotting of their hair[131]. We may further

observe a certain infelicity of Transylvania, as well as the adjoining

parts of Hungary, in persuading themselves at least, that they are

infested with witchcraft. For women of all ages are yearly executed for

that crime, and this commonly upon evidence of their having threatned

mischief to their neighbours, their children, goods, cattle, or other

effects, and some correspondent effect, which has seemed afterwards to

happen. In the Saxon seats of Transylvania they often put them to that

vulgar trial of water; and I have heard it avowed by those, who have

declared themselves to have been eye witnesses, that some suspected

persons could never sink below the surface of the water, when others

immediately subsided to the bottom[132]. And in such cases the poor

afflicted, tortured, and now perhaps distracted person, confesses the

indictment, and then without the least repreive is committed to the

faggot. But as ignorant places have been always reputed most subject to

witchcraft, this very well suits the state of Transylvania; where every

petty district is the seat of its own judicature, and the power of life

and death is consequently lodged in illiterate and superstitious persons.

June ii.

But it is now time to proceed on our journey, in which one Hungarian mile

and a half carried us to _Szekhelyhíd_, where his Excellency lodged in

the house of a popish prelate, by name _Joannes Smitz_, of the order of

the _Praemonstratenses_, a gentile and agreable person. In his parlour,

where he had an altar and crucifix, I observed over the former a profane

picture of the _Holy Trinity_, representing an _Old Man_, with his _Son_

sitting betwixt his legs, and at the son’s feet the _Holy Ghost_ in the

shape of a _dove_.

June iii.

Three Hungarian miles and a half farther brought us this day to

_Debrecyn_, thro a rich soil, not destitute of wood, nor water; the

latter of which is plentifully found in this countrey, as also in

Transylvania and Valachia, by reason of its frequent and extended lakes;

tho fountains are scarce any where to be observed. This city has lately

obtained the privilege of being _libera et regia_ from the Emperor, in

consideration of its late grievous oppressions between the Turkish and

German forces; since which, like other free cities, it is governed by its

own judge, senate, and commonalty. It is large and populous, and sets up

for the bulwark of the reformed church in Hungary; which character it

maintains by its large and well disciplined college of almost two hundred

students, under the care of two eminent professors; one of divinity,

named _Johannes Koes_, who is likewise bishop or superintendent of the

province; and the other of philosophy, whose name is _Michael Vaári_. As

this college is kept in good repair, so the students are allowed their

constant diet, and the professors receive their salary, at the sole

charge of the city. There are likewise two spatious churches, served by

three able and learned pastors, _Thomas Veresedgyhazi_, _Michael Rapoti_,

and _Stephanus Patai_. The city is likewise furnished at the public

charge with a capacious and well stored dispensary.

Before his Excellency approached this place, he was complimented by

several messengers from the mayor, who commands the militia here, then by

the judge, senators, and others; and at length by the bishop, professors,

pastors, and scholars. With this retinue his Excellency entered the

city, which was orderly lined with arms as far as his lodgings. These

were appointed for him in the house of one _Stephanus Dobozi_, a rich,

generous, and learned gentleman; who among other public designs is now

undertaking to print a new version of the Hungarian _Bible_, to be

distributed among the reformed Christians of that kingdom.

June iv.

This being _Corpus Christi_ day, his Excellency continued at _Debrecyn_;

at which time I took the opportunity of visiting the bishop, professors,

and pastors of the town, the first of whom presented me with an

handkerchief of the Hungarian fashion. I was introduced to them by one

_Paul Gyongyóssi_, who met us in this place from a neighbouring cure.

He had lately traveled into England, and resided sometime in _Glocester

Hall, Oxford_, where he was known to my brother of dear memory. But in

his return home thro _Vienna_ his books were seized, to the value of five

hundred florins, by Cardinal _Colonicza_, archbishop of _Strigonium_; on

which account he now solicited the favour and interest of his Excellency.

He presented me with the _Canones Ecclesiae Reformatae Hungariae_.

June v.

This morning the judge and magistrates of _Debrecyn_ presented his

Excellency with a gentile sword, and two small vessels of the best

_Tokái_ wine. And after traveling one Hungarian mile and a half thro a

dead extended plain, void of tree or shrub, we came to _Ujvaros_. Here I

first took notice of the Hungarian sheep, which are distinguished from

most others by their horns, which are long, straight, and twisted; also

by their wool, which is exceeding coarse.

June vi.

Three Hungarian miles thro the same level and naked plain brought us this

day to _Csege_, which is a pass over the _Tibiscus_. In our way hither

we had in view on the right hand, at the distance of about five miles,

the celebrated mountain of _Tokái_, in compass about ten Hungarian miles,

and renowned for its generous wines. At the aforesaid _Csege_ we ferry

over the _Tibiscus_ in two large flat bottomed boats, thence we travel

for some time with the river on our right hand, and then strike into the

plain to _Csat_, a large village about one Hungarian mile from _Csege_,

where we fix our quarters.

June vii.

His Excellency stayed this day at _Csat_, at which time I had some

conversation with the minister, _Stephanus Szirák_, formerly a traveler

in England. Here I took notice of the fair, white, and stately cattle of

Hungary; and walked in the feilds, to enjoy a more distinct prospect of

the mountain _Tokái_.

June viii.

We proceed one Hungarian mile and a half thro the same plain to

_Proszlo_, which is situated on a large and diffused lake, supplied by

the _Tibiscus_, into which it empties itself. In our way hither, we left

at a near distance on our right hand the city _Agria_, and the mountains

denominated from thence.

June ix.

We move one Hungarian mile and a half forward in the same plain, and at

the same distance from the mountains of _Agria_, to _Alány_. Before diner

his Excellency with a retinue went an English mile from hence, in order

to visit a new country house and garden belonging to the worthy General

_Glychensberg_; who by donation from the Emperor possesses great part of

this village, as likewise of that where we lodged last night. I had here

an occasion to observe the Hungarian houses under ground, having unawares

like to have dropt into a chimney. We took notice likewise of a _plica

Polonica_ in the hair of his Excellency’s landlord; who told us, that

it being once cut off by his wife, he became perfectly blind for three

months, and did not recover his sight, till the _plica_ was grown out and

formed again. The same thing is common to most horses in this country.

June x.

From _Alány_ we go on this day two Hungarian miles to _Arokszalles_, thro

the same plain, the soil of which is as black as coal, and in most places

overrun with weeds and marshes for want of tillage. In the midway we

cross the small river _Both_, by which is a posthouse of the same name.

_Arokszalles_ is a popish village, the first of that sort we had seen

in Hungary. It belongs to the Prince of _Newburg_, Grand Master of the

_Teutonic_ order, who has bought lately of the Emperor a large compass

of ground on both sides the _Tibiscus_ for a million of florins. From

our quarters we have in view to the right of our road, at the foot of a

pleasant tract of mountains, the city _Gyongyossi_, lately taken from

the Protestants (as they told us at _Debrecyn_) by the injuries of the

Jesuits and other Romanists.

June xi.

We continue our journey one Hungarian mile to _Hatwan_, thro the

same plain, along the foss of an antient _Roman_ camp. The hills of

_Gyongyóssi_ are still at a near distance on our right hand, in which

four Hungarian miles from _Arokszalles_ is the famous gold mine of

_Kremnytz_, with others of silver, iron, and other minerals, in the same

neighbourhood. _Hatwan_ was lately a walled city, and is now inhabited

by Romanists, being the property of the Prince of _Solmes_, grand

master to the King of the _Romans_. The Emperor constantly employs five

hundred labourers in the mines of _Kremnytz_, tho of late years they are

said to fail. At _Hatwan_, as in all Hungary, I observed the method of

burying their corn in holes under ground, as _Hirtius_ remarks of the

Africans[133].

June xii.

At _Hatwan_ we immediately cross the small river _Zagywa_, and thence

proceed one Hungarian mile and half thro a pleasant variety of woods and

pastures, valleys and hills, to _Kerepes_; where at a neat German house

his Excellency staid to breakfast, and then went forward the same length

of way thro a naked, tho not so level a plain, to _Pest_. At his entry

here he is saluted by the canon from the opposite castle of _Buda_, and

lodged at the _Fountain_ inne. _Pest_ is now a small but compact city,

intirely built out of the ruins, to which it was reduced by the two late

sieges of _Buda_. Its antient wall, with the battlements and bastions, is

still intire, and incloses it in the figure of an half moon, terminating

on the banks of the _Danube_, which completes the remaining circuit of

the city. There are still extant three or four _minarées_ of Turkish

_mosques_, now devoted to Christian use. But what gives just offence both

to Turks and Christians is a new pillar, erected in the market place, and

bearing on its top a large stone sculpture of the _Trinity_; a figure as

common, as it is scandalous, in Germany.

June xiii.

This day his Excellency remained here, which gave Mr. Paget and myself

an opportunity of passing over to _Buda_ on a flying bridge, which is

maintained by the city _Pest_. The famous city of _Buda_ is the capital

of Hungary, and was the seat of its Kings till the year fifteen hundred

twenty nine, when by treachery it fell into the hands of _Solymán_ the

_Great_; since which it was several times attempted by the Christian

arms, but never successfully, till the year sixteen hundred sixty eight.

And it yet remains in the same condition, in which that terrible siege

had left it, with regard to its fortifications; but the private houses,

especially those of the _Rascian_ and _Water Town_, are again handsomely

rebuilt. That, which is called the _Upper Town_, is likewise begining to

be reinhabited, but not equally with the other two. The situation of the

whole city lies in the following manner. From the banks of the _Danube_,

which here runs N. W. and S. E. there arises a steep and oblong hill, the

length of about half a mile, and the hight of about two hundred paces,

on which stands, what is called the _Upper Town_. This on the N. W. end

has that famous castle, which was the palace of the Hungarian Kings; and

from thence the walls and other fortifications are continued round the

town. On both ends of the hill are two small valleys, each of which has

a large suburb; that on the N. W. end called the _Rascian_, and that

on the S. E the _Water Town_. The latter of these is larger, and much

better built; and extends itself not only in the valley above mentioned,

but likewise betwixt the _Danube_ and a great part of the hill, on which

the wall and _Upper Town_ is built. Just beyond the _Rascian Town_

is a steep and sharp rocky hill, which in case of a siege must needs

annoy the castle; and along the backside of the city wall is extended,

at a nearer distance, another rising ground, which must likewise gall

that side of the fortification. These therefore the Imperialists must

possess with proper forts, whenever they undertake to repair the wall

and castle of _Buda_; the present remains of which were shewn us this

morning by the lieutenant of the ordnance, the most remarkable whereof

were these which follow. The hall of the royal palace, in which the

carved windows, chimney pieces, and other decorations, shewed the work

of an excellent hand; and were embelished, among other devises, with the

arms of _Matthias Corvinus_. The several canons, mortar pieces, bombs,

and other artillery, which make the present ammunition of the castle.

The two breaches, one entered by the Bavarians, and the other by the

Imperialists, when they took the place. The wooden gate, hewn at the

bottom by the Imperialists, which action gave the last rout to the Turks.

The stone arched chamber, which they maintained to the last; tho the

Bavarians had been many days lodged in the next adjoining apartment, and

nothing but a single wall remained betwixt the two enemies. The well and

capacious cistern, sufficient to afford water for that numerous Turkish

garrison, which at first consisted of twenty four thousand men. What else

occurs observable in this place, is first the prospect, which we took

from the _Water Town_ of old _Buda_, or _Sicambria_ of the Romans, about

an English mile from hence, up the stream of the river. And secondly, the

famous sulphureous baths, exactly opposite to the city _Pest_, which are

supplied by a plentiful hot fountain, that runs from the steep rocky hill

before mentioned in the neighbourhood of the _Rascian Town_.

At midday we were invited to diner by the administrator, or chief civil

magistrate of the place. By his office he is president of the _camera

Budensis_, which consists of twelve officers, and enjoys great revenues,

as well as an entire jurisdiction for many miles round the city. His

Imperial Majesty has about fourteen hundred men in Garrison at _Buda_

and _Pest_, under General _Pefferhoft_, who was now gone to demolish the

fortifications of _Erla_; it being the Emperor’s design to divest this

country of all its lesser forts, which at this juncture might be a refuge

to any rebellious subjects. The whole country of Hungary to this place

is a black and rich soil, without one stone to be observed, except in

towns; and abounds with lakes. The wine of _Buda_ exactly resembles that

of _Bourdeaux_, and for these two last years, by an agent of the Earl

of _Nottingham_, has began to be imported into England, by the way of

_Breslaw_.

June xiv.

Early this morning we depart from _Buda_, when his Excellency was again

saluted by the guns of the castle. Three Hungarian miles thro a rich,

woody, and well watered country bring us to _Biéske_; a village where

the Protestant are most numerous, but were nevertheless deprived of the

parish church last year by the Romanists.

June xv.

Three more Hungarian miles carry us this day to _Koes_, thro a continued

wood, wherein are observable many curious trees, herbs, and flowers,

particularly the _fraxinella_; to say nothing of the damask roses,

hyacinths, _barbaréae_, _lilia convallium_, and some others, obvious in

our whole road thro Hungary.

June xvi.

From _Koes_, where his Excellency lodged the last night, in an house

of Count _Estzerhazi_, Palatin of Hungary, it is one Hungarian mile to

_Igmand_, at which we arrive by eight a clock this morning. And one mile

from thence toward the right hand we stop to see the city and fort of

_Komora_. In a post calash we arrive on the banks of the _Danube_ by ten

a clock, and passing over in a boat enter the city, which is seated on

the point of the island _Schut_, where it is washed on one side by the

_Danube_ itself; and on the other by that branch of it, which takes the

name of _Wag_, from that river falling into it not far above the city

_Komora_. The extreme point of this island is possessed by the castle and

fort, consisting of four bastions, and an angle at the farther end, which

represents the figure of a tortoise. Before the gate and drawbridge there

is a place of arms, and before that another strait fortification with two

bastions and an half moon, added by the present Emperor. This was the

last bulwark against the Turks, before the success of the last war, and

is called the _Virgin Fort_, in token of its having never been taken by

the enemy. To perpetuate the memory of this, the statue of a virgin is

erected in one angle of that bastion, which is on the left hand at the

entrance of the place. After this view of the castle we content ourselves

with a slighter view of the town, which appears neat and compact; and by

two a clock return to his Excellency’s quarters at _Igmand_, the whole

way lying over a green, naked, and level plain. In the castle of _Komora_

I found the three following inscriptions, two of them in Latin, and the

third in Greek, which are cut upon stone coffins.

D. M.

M. VAL. VALERIANI LEG.

IIII FL. VIXIT AN. XLII

ET M. VAL. VLPIO EQ. PV

BL. FIL. VIXIT AN. VIII SIMV

L CONDITIS VLPIA PARA

TIANE MARITO ET FILIO

ET VLPIA VALERIA FILIA

HEREDES F. C.

D. M.

MEMORIAE IVLI

AE EMERITAE QVAE VI

XIT AN I̶I̶I̶ VALERIA MASO

LENIA FILIAE PIISSIMAE

ΠΑΛΜΥΡΙ ΕΥΨΥΧΕΙ ΜΕΤΑ ΠΑΤΡΟΣ

June xvii.

Our next stage, which was three Hungarian miles, brought us from _Igmand_

to _Rab_, thro a level country, and well cultivated. Half an hour before

we enter the town, his Excellency is met by a troop of _Hussars_ well

mounted, and each man carrying a small flag in his hand. _Rab_, which is

the proper government of the Prince of _Baden_, is pleasantly seated at

the confluence of the rivers _Rab_ and _Rabnitz_, which unite near the

walls of the castle, and then in one stream immediately fall into the

_Danube_. The castle is large, and well fortified with seven bastions,

four cavaliers, and proportionable outworks. It contains within an

ample space of ground, possessed with houses, and divided into streets,

which make the best part of the city, the rest being more scattered and

diffused on both sides of the _Rabnitz_. It is now about a century,

since this place was taken from the Turks by a stratagem of Count

_Schaurtzenburg_, who applying a petard to one of the gates in the night,

at one stroke blew open the great iron door, which flew many paces within

the town, and is now kept as a memorial of the fact in the cathedral

church. The Turks marched in the sight of this garrison to the siege of

_Vienna_, and received several shot from thence; and at their return,

had the Imperialists of this place known their defeat, they might have

intercepted their passage, by cutting down the bridges of the _Rab_.

June xviii.

His Excellency staying this day at _Rab_, I took the opportunity of

visiting _Stephanus Morsai_, the reformed minister of the place. And

about ten a clock Mr. Stepney, her Majesty’s Envoy Extraordinary at

_Vienna_, with the young Earl of Bridgwater, and his brother Mr. Egerton,

came to _Rab_ to meet my Lord Paget, and welcome him into these parts.

June xix.

This day, thro frequent villages and fruitful feilds, we continue our

journey two Hungarian miles to _Hungrisch Altenburg_, a small town with

fair buildings, enclosed with a wall, and seated on the river _Leyta_,

which at the distance of half a mile falls into the _Danube_. Here Mr.

Stepney, my Lord Paget, and some others proceed directly to _Vienna_.

June xx.

Three Hungarian miles, thro a delicious and well tilled country, in

sight of _Presburg_ castle, we proceed to _Pruck_; just at the entrance

of which we cross the _Leyta_, and by that means pass out of _Hungary_

into _Austria_, of which _Pruck_ is the first town in this road. It is a

considerable compact place, neatly built with an appearing magnificence,

which they affect by building their houses high and uniform towards the

street. It has a castle and a strong wall, tho not sufficient against

the present art of war. In the market place is a pillar, that bears a

profane image of the _Trinity_, the _Father_ in the figure of an old man,

the _Son_ standing at his right hand, and the _Holy Ghost_ in the shape

of a _dove_ hovering betwixt their heads. Here is an handsome convent of

Augustin friars, and in the market place a new church not yet finished,

which promises something both beautiful and magnificent.

June xxi.

This day, being Sunday, we continue at _Pruck_, when I took an occasion

of walking by the banks of the _Leyta_, in pleasant and delightful

meadows.

June xxii.

Four German miles from hence bring us to _Schweka_, a neat village

near _Eberstorff_; where is a palace of the Emperor, and a large park,

enclosed by the _Danube_ and the _Schweka_.

June xxiii.

By three in the afternoon his Excellency moves from hence, and in an

hour and a half, at the distance of two German miles, happily arrives at

_Vienna_; where he is lodged in the suburbs, betwixt the _Caristhian_

gate and the _Favorita_, in a palace of Count _Sterembergh_. After the

repose of a day or two his Excellency had a separate audience of the

Emperor, and Empress, the Archduke _Carlo_, and the four Archdutchesses.

And being visited by most of the nobility, courtiers, and ministers of

the place, he afterwards took occasion of returning their respective

visits.

_Vienna_ is seated on a point of land, made by the confluence of the river

_Wien_ and a branch of the _Danube_, which latter here enlarges itself

about a thousand paces from its main chanel. The city is of a moderate

circumference, scarce containing more than four thousand paces within

the circuit of the walls; but round these, at a large distance, are

extended many diffused suburbs, by means of which it may be placed among

the larger cities of Europe. The fortifications are effective, regular,

and intire; a large uninterrupted glacis, a strong pale, a deep and

wide foss, a substantial curtain lined with brick, thirteen bastions,

and as many ravelins, with six well defended gates. Answerable to these

there are two arsenals within the city; one for ammunition and artillery

belonging to the Emperor, and the other for small arms belonging to

the citizens. The streets, tho few of them broad, are yet all of them

fair and moderately straight, ranged on each side with lofty houses

of four or five stories high, built with a good appearance, tho not

really magnificent; for they shew a regularity of architecture in their

windows, cornishes, and water tables, but the materials are only brick

walls incrusted in imitation of freestone. Among the buildings of the

city are interspersed several oblong piazzas, adorned with fountains,

tho of no great art or curiosity. Yet there are two squares, each of

which exhibits a considerable public monument; one being the pillar of

the _Blessed Virgin_, and the other that of the most _Holy Trinity_. The

former of these is a brass column, adorned round the four corners of

the basis with as many figures of angels, and on the chapiter bearing

a noble statue of the _Madonna_, with her feet resting on a dragon. It

was begun by the last Emperor, and finished by the present; and exhibits

four religious or superstitious inscriptions, the chief of which is a

triumphant declaration of the immaculate conception, as now confirmed by

a papal verdict, and hence forward to be received as an article of faith.

The latter pillar, called that of the _Holy Trinity_, is a magnificent

column of marble and freestone rising sixty six feet high, almost in the

form of a pyramid. It was the work of ten years, finished in 1692, at

the expence of a hundred thousand florins, and erected by the present

Emperor in commemoration of this city, and the dukedom of _Austria_,

being delivered from the plague in the year 1679. It is adorned in

three corners with these inscriptions, _Deo Patri Creatori_, _Deo Filio

Redemptori_, _Deo Spiritui Sanctificatori_; and in three other places

with larger devotions and dedications, composed by his Imperial Majesty.

From the basis it rises in continual orbs and protuberances of clouds,

surrounded with several intire angelic figures, out of which are seen

the wings and heads of others. But on the top is represented in gilt

brass the _Most Holy Trinity_: the _Holy Ghost_, as a _dove_, irradiated;

the _Son_ in an human figure, holding a cross; and the _Father_ at his

left hand, with no marks of majesty, but clothed in a loose gown, like

an old man, bearing a globe in his right hand. At the bottom is the

Emperor himself, kneeling indeed in a posture of devotion, but otherwise

represented with more marks of honour and majesty, than the _Divine

Being_ which he adores. The figure of _God the Father_ is very frequent

in Austria, and variously expressed, some times in a nightgown and cap,

and at other times with a papal crown.

The cathedral church of this place is dedicated to _St. Stephen_, and

is a stately antient building, having an high tower adorned throughout

with crotchets so strong, that it withstood several canon shot in the

late siege. It is now repaired, and bears in the work the date of that

year, which was 1683. On the spire it has a cross rising from between the

wings of the _Roman eagle_, instead of the _half moon_, which stood there

before by compact with _Solymán_ the _Magnificent_. The inside of the

church is divided into three isles, at the upper end of which are many

magnificent altars, with at least thirty more dispersed about the pillars

and other corners of the church. Near the principal of these the walls

are almost covered with pictures and sculpture, superstitiously dedicated

on occasion of so many vows there made; which I call therefore, in the

words of that ingenious heathen poet, _Tabulis sacer votivis paries_.

Over the great altar is placed the picture of the Madonna, by the name

of _Sta. Maria de Boes_, brought not long since from Hungary on occasion

of its having shed tears; of which, I saw one at _Sancta Margarita_,

who pretended to be an eye witness. The anniversary of the day it was

brought to _Vienna_, and of that, on which it wept, are celebrated by

a public feast, when the Emperor likewise hears mass on the occasion.

There is likewise another miraculous image of the _Virgin_ at the lower

north door of the cathedral, which is daily so thronged with worshipers

on their knees, that it gives offence to the bishop of this city, who

is endeavouring to suppress the picture, as well as the abuse. In this

door is a white stone, worn considerably by the touch of all that enter

there, as being thought to be one of those, with which _St. Stephen_

was martyred. Round the body of the church are frequent monuments well

carved, and some sculptures of the _History of the Gospel_, which can

scarce any where be exceeded. There is likewise a new saint, whose statue

of stone has been lately erected on all the bridges of _Vienna_. He

is styled under his picture, _S. Joannes Mepomienus, Martyr_, who was

drowned by a King of Bohemia for not discovering a confession of the

Queen.

Besides this cathedral there are four or five parochial churches,

of which the most remarkable is that of _St. Michael_; but among

such a multitude of conventual churches, and each of these furnished

with a large number of altars, the parochial are in a great measure

obscured. The most splendid convents of the place are first, that of

the Dominicans; after this the Benedictines, formerly belonging to the

_Scotch_; then two belonging to the Jesuits, of which one is called the

_Domus professa_, the other the _college_; next the Minorite Franciscans,

then the Angustines, and lastly the Capuchines. Of these the Minorite

Franciscans have in their chapel a pattern of the _Scala sancta_; the

Augustines the _Capella aulica_, and the pattern of the _Temple of

Loretto_; the Capuchines a small but pretty chapel in one side of their

church, wherein are buried the deceased of the Imperial family. The roof

of the church belonging to the college of Jesuits is now newly painted

in perspective, that is inimitable, by _P. Pozzo_ of that society; who

likewise did the celebrated perspective in the church of that society at

_Rome_.

_Vienna_ was made the seat of the Imperial family by _Ferdinand_ the

second, who translated it from _Gratz_. The imperial and royal palaces

belonging to this place are, one old one in the city, usually called the

_Bourg_; another in the suburb opposite to the Corinthian gate, called

the Favorite; a third at _Eberstorff_, two hours distant from the city;

and a fourth at _Luxemburg_, at the distance of two hours and a half.

All these are plain, but capacious and convenient buildings; and the

Emperor divides his residence betwixt them, according to the different

seasons of the year. But at _Schonbran_, about two English miles distant

from _Vienna_, is a new palace as yet in some measure unfinished; which

is built for the King of the _Romans_ after the Italian mode, adorned

in the pinacles with statues, a gentle ascent and spatious stairs up to

the entrance, beautified with a regular garden behind, and on the front

two ranges of stables and offices, that form a regular square court.

The rooms and apartments within are stately and well proportioned, and

the doors and chimney pieces richly built with Polonian marble. Besides

these, in the way to _Eberstorff_ are to be seen the stately remains of

the palace, called _Neugebac_; which was destroyed by the Turks in the

late siege, and is not yet repaired. However there appears a regular

front, consisting of proper pillars; and in some apartments of this

ruined house are kept several wild beasts of great curiosity. These, with

some others at _Schonbran_, I took an opportunity of viewing, and shall

here give a brief account of them. At _Neugebac_ are two _lions_, one

of which is about five years old, but the most stately and majestic as

can well be seen. Three _cassawares_, a species of bird without wings,

the body of the size and shape of a sheep, the legs long and thick in

proportion, the neck tall with a blue but blunt crest, the feathers black

and exactly resembling those of an ostrich. Three _tigers_, one of a

large and unusual size. Two _leopards_ well spotted, their ears short,

their head like that of a cat, but their body more approaching to a

mongrel greyhound; they are swift, and hunt hares, or other creatures,

which are thrown into their walk. Several _lynces_, nothing different (as

I am informed) from the panther; they are spotted with larger circles

than a tiger or leopard, and much resemble a wild cat, but exceed it in

size. An _hyaena_, much resembling a mastif, but the nose more round

and contracted, a large belly, and a brindled spotted skin. A _beaver_,

which is a little amphibious animal, of a flat figure, with a short neck

and legs, a soft and thick fur, and a bare tail. These which follow, are

at _Schonbran_. Several _wild goats_, the males with large horns, and

therefore by the antients called _aegoceros_. Two _ostriches_, the one

five, the other fifteen years old, the head higher than the ordinary

stature of a man, the feathers black, except on the tail and tip of the

wings, where they are milk white, the thighs perfectly bare, the legs

long and substantial, the feet divided into two broad pulpy claws, which

are thought poisonous, and in figure somewhat resembling those of a

camel, whence they are called in Latin _camelostruthi_. Two _antilopes_.

A she _elk_, a timerous animal, which is made much like an hind, with

a broad excrescent mouth. Three _uri_, in the figure of a bull, but a

thicker and shorter neck, with the appearance of prodigious strength, and

one of them, very large. But concerning these two last species a fuller

account may be seen in _Caesar_, _De B. Gall._ _Lib._ vi. _cap._ 5.

There are three libraries in this place. One is called _Bibliotheca

Windhagiana_, which belongs to the Dominican convent. Another is at the

college of Jesuits, which is larger and better collected. But the third,

which exceeds them both, and perhaps all others in these parts of the

world, is that, which belongs to the Emperor at his palace in this city.

In the Dominican library I saw a monstrous human _foetus_ kept in spirits

of wine; with another dried and stuffed, which is double in all its

parts, as having two heads, four hands, four legs, and two trunks as far

as the navel, where they unite into one body. But what I observed in the

_Caesarian_ library will deserve a more distinct relation, which I shall

give in the following particulars.

The most eminent _Greek Mss._ in the _Catalogue_ of _Nesselius_, with

other curiosities by him mentioned, and particularly the pictures

belonging to the _res vestiaria_ of the antients; all which may be seen

in the catalogue which I had there with me.

Besides what occurs in the _Nesselian Catalogue_, the antient _Ambrosian

Ms._ of part of _Livy_, which is clear and legible; tho the contrary is

asserted by Dr. _Brown_[134]. It is the oldest copy now extant of that

author, and tho it ends with _Lib._ XLV; yet there is added at the bottom

of the page, _Liber_ XLVI _incipit feliciter_, as if it was extant at

that time, which is conceived by _Lambecius_ to be about a thousand years

since.

The _Ms. German Bible_ of the Emperor _Wenceslaus_, in the margin of

which, among other curious pictures relating to the sacred story, he is

himself painted in more than fifty places, as washing in his _bagnio_,

where he was once prisoner; together with the _bagnio_ girl, who

furthered his escape, and whom afterwards he so passionately loved.

A copy of the _golden bull_, containing the constitutions of the empire

by _Charles_ the fourth, in the first year of his empire. It is now a

great curiosity, and was written for the use of the Emperor _Wenceslaus_,

but forty years after the original published at _Waremburg_ in 1356, and

still reserved at _Augsburg_.

An elegant, tho not very antient _Ms._ of _Cicero’s Orations_, with

another more antient of _Ovid’s Metamorphoses_.

The _Letter_ of the present _Tartar Han_ to the present Emperor, finely

wrote on a long roll of silk.

A printed book of the _Confucian philosophy_ in the _Sinese_ character

and language, published by the Jesuits.

A _Ms._ book of _Latin letters_, written by the present Emperor to

_Lambecius_, in a neat and elegant stile; in which he always begins

with, _Chare Lambeci_. To this is affixed the following _Epigram_ on the

present King of France by the said Emperor, attested by _Lambecius_ to

have been written by the Emperor in his presence at _Luxemburg_, 17 May

1666.

_Bella fugis, sequeris bellas, pugnaeque repugnas,_

_Et bellatori sunt tibi bella tori._

_Imbelles imbellis amas, totusque videris_

_Mars ad opus Veneris, Martis ad arma Venus._

The celebrated _Ms._ of _Jacobus Strada_, antiquary to _Maximilian_

the second, concerning antient medals; consisting of eight volumes in

this order: Vol. i. and ii. _De nummis consularibus._ Vol. iii. _De

Latinis, a Julio Caesare ad Nervum._ Vol. iv. _De iisdem, a Nervo ad

Alexandrum Severum._ Vol. v. _De iisdem, ab Alexandro Severo ad Claudium

Secundum._ Vol. vi. _De nummis Graecis a Julio Caesare ad Nervum._ Vol.

vii. _De iisdem, a Nervo ad Alexandrum Severum._ Vol. viii. _De iisdem,

ab Alexandro Severo ad triginta illos sub Gallieno tyrannos._ This

work contains a collection of fair and choice medals, all exquisitely

delineated by a pencil, each of which fills a whole page in _folio_; but

the explication added by the author shews him to have been more laborious

than learned, and discovers many notorious mistakes, as well in the

tongues, as the history, to which the medals relate.

Two fragments, one in the _Greek_, the other in the _Latin tongue_,

written on antient bark.

The case of this library is very mean, being unfurnished with seats and

benches, and divided into four or five distinct apartments, besides

another more separate from the rest, in which are kept all prohibited,

that is, controversial books in divinity, together with the small

remainder of _Matthias Corvinus’s_ library brought from _Buda_. But it

is still a greater disadvantage to this library, that since the death of

_Nesselius_ it has for two years been without a librarian, and therefore

is difficult of access, and not without a considerable fee. This defect

is attributed to the great scarcity of learned men in these parts,

especially those of the Roman faith; for which reason the two preceding

librarians, _Lambecius_ and _Nesselius_, being before Lutherans, were

obliged to renounce their faith, when they accepted that employ.

Over against the library is a long gallery, adjoining likewise to the

palace, wherein is contained the Emperor’s treasury. A noble and truly

royal collection is here of innumerable curiosities, both of art and

nature, with vast riches in silver, gold, pretious stones, and jewels.

But this likewise has the disgrace of being meanly exposed to sale, nor

is it ever shewn under the exorbitant fee of twenty five florins; however

I obtained two opportunities of viewing it, in the latter of which I took

a large and distinct catalogue of the chief rarities deposited there,

which would be too large to be here inserted.

The university of this place is a numerous society, appropriated to

several distinct nations, particularly those of the empire, and the

Emperor’s hereditary dominions; but it is remarkable for nothing but a

low contracted institution, and administered wholly by the Jesuites,

except that they refuse the office of _rector magnificus_, as being an

expensive honour. The schools are tolerable and convenient apartments,

adjoining to the Jesuits college; but the particular students are lodged

privately, as every one’s circumstances and conveniency best serve him.

But what they call the _academy_ is in its kind more flourishing than

the university; being a society instituted at the charge of the whole

province of Austria, to instruct the young gentry and nobility in riding,

fencing, dancing, the modern tongues, heraldry, history, and other polite

arts. Their riding school is a noble room; and adjoining thereto is a

stable of about forty managed horses, for the maintaining of which their

instructor in horsemanship receives ten thousand florins annually from

the public.

The present Imperial family ordinarily residing in this palace consists

of the Emperor; the Empress _Leonora_; the King and Queen of the

_Romans_; Archduke _Charles_; with the four Archdutchesses, _Marta

Elisabeth_, _Maria Anna_, _Maria Josepha_, _Maria Magdalena_. Of these

the Emperor has now passed sixty two years of his age, the King of the

_Romans_ twenty four, and the Archduke will be seventeen in October next;

the two elder of the Archdutchesses have been some time marriageable, but

the two younger are in their state of childhood. The Emperor is of a mild

disposition, and conscientiously just, except where influenced by popish

principles; he reasons solidly, has a happy memory, is both a lover and

composer of music, skilled in the Hungarian, Sclavonian, and French

tongues, and has an elegant taste of the Italian and Latin. Both he and

his Empress appear truly devout in their way, which they testify by many

instances of diffusive liberality and charity, as likewise by their

frequent walks in processions, and daily visiting and dining in religious

convents. Their garb, especially that of the Empress, is exceeding plain;

their coaches and liveries of the old fashion; and their ceremonious

dress is the habit and mode of Spain. Only they have now and then, what

they call their _Gala days_, in which there is a great resort to court,

and none appear there but in suits of gold and silver embroidery. So that

it is the wisdom of this government, which has little reason to brag of

its riches, to make this sort of luxury necessary, at a time when its

more wealthy neighbours have either by prudent choice, or wholesome laws,

wholly retrenched these superfluities. But to return to the character

of the family. The Emperor is not only devout, but even bigoted to

the Romish church, and fondly addicted to the priests, especially the

Jesuits. The King of the _Romans_ on the contrary is severely imbittered

against them, but the Archduke is inclinable to tread in his father’s

steps. The Empress will sometimes undertake pilgrimages on foot to some

famous shrine, or image, in the adjoining country; and promises herself

no doubt great benefits from that painful superstition.

The King of the _Romans_ was gone to the siege of _Landaw_ before

our arrival; but the remainder of the Imperial family I had frequent

opportunity of seeing, particularly at their supper, or the operas, which

are sometimes acted in a theatre at the _Favorite_. It is their custom

to salute the Emperor by bowing the knee. Their table is truly moderate,

and a remarkable example of temperance and parsimony. Their operas are

excessive dull, the action mean and trivial, and therefore more agreable

to the low genius and relish of this place. Another occasion, that

offered me the sight of the Emperor and the Archduke, was at a certain

sport, with which in summer time they frequently divert themselves. They

send out a large and expensive train of carts, laden with tents, canvas,

poles, and other utensils, into one of their adjoining parks. There in an

open green a tent is pitched for the Emperor and his retinue, round which

a large and long space of ground is enclosed with high rails of canvas.

When the Emperor is arrived, and ready to begin his diversion, a rank

of huntsmen sound their horns, the rails drop at one end, and the grand

_cacciatóre_ rides out with his attendants to drive in an herd of deer,

enclosed near at hand for this purpose. This done, they are forced up to

the Emperor’s tent, till at the distance of about twenty yards they stand

in a throng together. Hereupon his Imperial Majesty takes a well poised

carbine, rests it upon a fixt support, then applies a perspective glass

to the barrel, and discharges among the herd; and thus, with the help of

the Archduke, he stuns, or maims perhaps, a dozen at twice as many shots.

At length they sit down to diner, there talk over their diversion, and

give this ignoble slaughter the name of a hunt.

During my stay at _Vienna_, I had the opportunity of three accidental

but remarkable sights. The first of these was the execution of a woman

by decollation, whose head the executioner struck off, as she sat in a

chair, at one blow, levelled against the back part of her neck, with

a two handed stroke, and a broad two edged sword. At these executions

there assists, as in Italy, a number of about twenty persons, called

the _confraternity of the dead_, habited in black, with masks, broad

brimed hats, and mourning staves. They are a fixed society, composed

of citizens of the middle rank, on whom their confessors impose it, as

a piece of penance, to assist _incognito_ on these occasions. But most

remarkable was the fact and behaviour of the criminal, who was about

twenty six years of age, and in the absence of her husband, now three

years imprisoned at _Presburg_, had admitted the embraces of a young man,

whom she passionately loved, but at length discovered to be upon the

design of marrying another woman. After the most earnest but fruitless

endeavours to divert his intention, she invites him one morning to a walk

beyond the _Favorite_, and in a remote place enticing him to kiss her,

takes occasion to shoot him in the head. This done, she immediately

resigns herself to justice, reveals the whole fact, and implores her

speedy dispatch; that so she might have his company in the other world,

without whom she could not live in this. She walked with a fresh

undaunted countenance to the place of sentence, which tho before designed

and notified accordingly, yet is never formally pronounced till the time

of execution. From thence she returned to the place of her death, sat

down in the chair, and then received the stroke, without ever wavering

her body, changing her complexion, or dreading the blow she was to feel.

At these executions they often catch the blood of the criminal, as good

against the falling sickness[135].

Another ceremony that occurred, while I resided here, was the investiture

of the Duke of _Saxony_, and other inferior Princes of that circle,

now at length demanded of his Imperial Majesty, at the _Favorite_, on

the eighth of August. The five several representatives of the Elector

and other Princes kneeling before the Emperor, who was seated on a low

throne, did fealty in behalf of their respective patrons, rehearsed

their pedigrees and title to their principalities, and requested of his

Imperial Majesty to be invested in their several dignities. This being

granted to them, they then took the proper oath at the feet of the

Emperor; afterwards kissed the handle of a sword, which he held forth to

each of them; and at last retiring to their first places, there on their

knees they recognized the authority of his Imperial Majesty, and so were

dismissed.

The third solemnity was a pompous procession, undertaken to accompany the

bones of three Saints, namely, _Sancta Victoria_, _Sanctus Alexander_,

and _Sanctus Justus_, from _St. Stephen’s_ to the chapel of the Emperor’s

palace in the city. They were newly brought from Italy, where being

observed by Prince _Leichtenstein_ in his late embassy to _Rome_, and

found to have some relation to Hungary, of which two of them were

natives; they were thought proper to be transmitted to _Vienna_, and

accordingly purchased very dear, one of them standing him in no less

than four thousand florins. In this procession marched all the religious

orders, ranked in their several fraternities, except that the Jesuit

disposed themselves promiscuously among the laity. After the monks and

friars followed the meaner people, to the number of about two thousand;

then the gentry, tho in a smaller number; after them a few of the

nobility; then the Archduke and Emperor; and last of all the Empress

and Archdutchesses. Each person of this numerous train maintained a

decent gravity, except the Archbishop of _Vienna_, who being dressed in

his episcopal robes and mitre walked like a horse in gaudy trappings,

flinging about his legs, surveying his rich vestments, and looking up to

the ladies and other spectators, who admired him from the windows, under

which he passed.

August xxvii.

This day I went in a calash, together with Mr. Montague and Mr.

_Gaugain_, to _Petronel_, a village on the _Danube_, about twenty

four English miles from _Vienna_, seated in the place of the antient

_Carnuntum_, where _M. Antoninus_ held his capital quarters to bridle

the _Marcomanni_ for the space of three years, and then retiring on

account of his indisposition to _Vindobona_ died there. While we were

on the road, I was entertained by those gentlemen, with a relation of

what they had seen the day before. Count _Sherradin_ of _Bohemia_ had

several times shot a pistol bullet into a mark of the size of a florin,

at the distance of forty yards. And at this he is said to be so expert,

that his pages will venture to hold a florin between their thumb and

forefinger, which he dextrously uses to strike without hurting them.

The like is sometimes practised by the present King of _Poland_, tho he

once broke the fingers of a page in making the experiment. We here saw

the remains of a triumphal arch, the _fornix_ of which is yet intire;

erected, as is thought by _Nesselius_ and _Lambecius_, on occasion of

that _Pannonian_ expedition of _Tiberius_, which is so much celebrated

by _Paterculus_[136]. The inhabitants here shewed us various Roman

coins, tho none of any noted value. The village now belongs to Count

_Traun_, who is descended from _Babo_, count of _Abensberg_, who had

forty children by two lawful wives; thirty two of which, being sons,

were presented by him to the Emperor, _Henry_ the second, who prefered

them all. Count _Traun_ has here a stately palace, called the _Castle_,

where we saw the story of the thirty two sons of Count _Babo_ painted at

large[137]. The house is moted round, as is usual all over this country.

In the inside is a noble hall, well painted in the roof, and at the

entrance of the gate is fixt an antient Latin inscription, which I have

here transcribed.

SILVANAB. ET

QVADRIBIS[138] AVG. SACRVM

C. ANTONINVS VALENTINVS

VET. LEG. XIIII. G. MVRVM A FV

NDAMENTIS CVM SVO INT

ROITO ET PORTICVM CVM

ACCVBITO VETVSTATE CONLA

BSVM IMPENDIO SVO RESTITV

IT GENTIANO ET BASSO COS.

August xxix.

His Excellency with his whole family retired this day from _Vienna_ to

_Baden_, a small town, yet enclosed with an old wall, and celebrated

for its baths, which are of pure sulphur. They rise in several places

about the town, without any mixture of steel or other mineral, and are

there collected into several square cisterns railed about with wood;

where people of different quality bathe in distinct bagnios, and in some

cases with good success. The town is seated four hours from _Vienna_, at

the foot of the hills, which I take to be the _Pannonian Alps_. In this

place Mr. Paget and I used the constant exercise of walking morning and

evening, where I experienced a happy restoration of my health, once much

debilitated in Turkey. _Gloria in excelsis Deo!_

September xxv.

His Excellency now sent Mr. Paget and myself to see the castle of

_Luxemburg_, situated in the way betwixt _Baden_ and _Vienna_. It is a

mean building, in the form of a small quadrangle, and moted round. I

observed several curious pictures in it, one particularly fine of the

_seven liberal sciences_, in the dining room of the Emperor; another

of the present _King of France_, when about four years of age; a third

of _Charles the fifth_; a fourth of _Matthias Corvinus_ and his father

_Huniades_. The dining room is observable for an accident of thunder,

which, while the Emperor and his family were at diner, entered the room

at one quarter, passed in a semicircle about the table, and made its way

thro the opposite wall with great explosion; while the Emperor remained

in his seat with a remarkable calmness and serenity of mind. Adjoining to

this building is a delightful park enclosed with pales; and nearer to the

house a thick grove of elm and oak, in which is a long walk, and avenues

so cut, as to resemble all the streets of _Vienna_.

September xxix.

This day Mr. Paget and I by the direction of his Excellency went to see

a glass house, newly erected in the hills adjoining to this place, at

the distance of about three hours. Our way thither lay thro a delicious

vale, which conveys a small river, is graced with green meadows on each

side, and above these with rising hills, adorned with a variety of trees,

but particularly pines and firs. I here observed the several curiosities

of that art and manufacture, which, tho frequent in England, I had never

before seen. Returning home we stept a little to the left hand, to visit

a convent of _Cistercian_ monks, by the name of _St. Cross_, founded

in the year 1131, by _St. Leopold_, Marquess of _Austria_. During the

late siege of _Vienna_ it was burnt by the Tartars (the common fate

of all this country for thirty or forty Holland miles round _Vienna_)

but soon after rebuilt by its own abbot, _Clement Scheffer_, in a more

stately and splendid manner. Here reside an abbot, a prior, and about

sixty monks, all royally maintained by noble revenues belonging to the

monastery. They are neatly and gentilely dressed, lodged in pleasant

chambers, have their public appartments alike magnificent, a fine garden,

and prospects beautified with vistos and avenues cut in the adjoining

woods. The abbot was then absent, but the prior and librarian treated us

at supper, where we were served with seven or eight dishes, the best old

wines, and conversation far from monkish. The librarian particularly was

pleased to ridicule the custom of signing all the doors of this country

with C. M. B. which the people fondly esteem a charm against fire and

thievery; but he, as he said, instead of _Cuspar Malcheir Bulkasar_, was

wont to interpret these letters _Cax Mundus Beelzebub_. At the same time

I could not but be highly offended at a certain jocular freedom, with

which he treated the _Holy Scripture_, saying with a profane mirth, when

he delivered to us a glass of wine, _Transeat a me calix iste_; and when

he had tossed off his own, _Consummatum est_. In truth we here saw not

any token of popish zeal or superstition, as is usual in other places,

no crucifixes, or images of the _Trinity_, _Virgin_, and the like; but

instead of these, the whole Imperial family excellently well painted,

and these in rooms, which for grandeur exceeded any, that the Emperor is

master of in his palaces about _Vienna_. Here they favoured us with a

lodging after a gentile and candid entertainment, and dismissed us in the

like manner by eight a clock the next morning. Their library was mean,

but the case very neat; tho the library had been much larger before the

destruction by the Tartars. However I saw here a good Latin _Ms._ of

the _New Testament_, without the _Epistles_ of _St. Peter_, _James_, or

_John_; and the _Apocalypse_ placed immediately after _St. John’s Gospel_.

October iv.

My Lord and his family now returned from _Baden_ to _Vienna_, where he

lodged within the city in the house of _C. Stratman_, at the rate of five

hundred florins a month. At _Baden_ I was able to observe nothing, except

some small matters relating to country affairs. As their way of making

wine in the field, where they mash the grapes in broad open tubs, and tun

it into large casks, as they lie in the cart. The manner of enclosing

their vineyards with high poles joined at the top, and burnt at bottom

to secure them from corrupting by the moisture of the ground. The manner

of drawing sometimes with asses, and at other times with oxen, joining

the harness to their horns without the use of yokes. I observed likewise

their custom of calling a public officer upon the death of any animal;

before which they dare not touch the carcass, he only being impowered

to carry it away to a certain place, and there flea it, for which he

receives three florins. This officer is called the _hound slayer_,

because twice a year he is obliged to kill all the dogs both in town and

country, that are found without a collar, which is thought an institution

against spreading of infectious diseases.

October v.

This day I waited upon Mr. Stepney, who among other papers from England

shewed me that traiterous Epigram, written in praise of _Sorrel_, or the

horse, from which his late Majesty received his fatal fall.

October xxv.

There was brought to his Excellency’s house a male child, seven years

of age, born at _Rigetsch_, three miles and a half from _Papa_, of a

beautiful countenance, but without legs or thighs; and the left hand

deformed, but the right intire. It walks, and raises itself with ease,

while its trunk supplies the use of one leg, and the right hand that of

the other. The hips terminate in a round figure, not unlike a woman’s

breasts, and have in the middle an excrescence exactly resembling a large

nipple. The child is healthy and lively, and from the crown of the head

to the extremity of the trunk is three palms and a half long.

I had now, in company of several English gentlemen, an opportunity of

seeing the Emperor’s collection of pictures, which is exposed at the

price of twelve florins. It consists of three long galleries, with four

or five large and square chambers. The whole number of pieces amounts

to a thousand six hundred and sixty three, performed by the best hands

of Europe, particularly these which follow: _Albert Durer_, _Anton.

Correggio_, _Bassan_, _Palma_ senior and junior, _Prugel_ senior and

junior, _Paul Veronese_, _Bronzini_, _Franck_ senior, _Paduanino_, _Jo.

Bellino_, _Poussin_, _Gerome Poss_, _Portononi_, _Spagnoletto_, _Raphael

Sancio_, _Giorgioni_, _Titian_, _Tintoretto_, _Van Ach_, _Holbein_,

_Rubens_, _Van Dick_, _John de Heem_, _Pauditz_, and others. Among these

there was one piece of _Raphael_, which seemed to excel the rest, being

_a saint holding a crucifix_, which belonged to the cabinet of King

_Charles_ the first of England, and was sold by _Oliver_ to this court

for twelve thousand florins. Besides this collection of pictures, there

is another set of rarities, preserved in a cabinet at one end of the

third gallery, and consisting of _intaglios_ and _cameos_; among which is

a large head of _Domitian_ in agate; a series of gold medals, and among

them two of _Otho_, to which is added a _Pisennius Niger_ in silver of

the third size. In the same cabinet are several small statues of brass

and stone, among the rest those of _Venus_ and _Hercules_; and likewise

several antient busts, particularly of _Plato_ and _Aristotle_; with

divers sepulchral lamps, urns, and other remains of antiquity. To say

nothing of the curiosities found in the tomb of _Childeric_ the first by

_Leopold William_, Archduke of _Austria_, and uncle to this Emperor, at

_Tournay_ in the year 1657. Among these are some remarkable gold coins of

that time, with the repeated emblem of flies or bees, the wings of which

at a distance give the figure of a _flower de lys_, and are supposed to

be the real arms of France, tho this resemblance has occasioned their

being mistaken for that flower. But more especially is to be remembred

the order of antient busts ranged on one side of the three galleries,

among which are several heads of _Emperors_, and _Satyrs_, with one of

_Socrates_; as likewise an intire figure of _Magna Mater turrita_, with

a _lion_ under her chair, a _tympanum_ in her left hand, and _patina_ in

her right; which cost this court a thousand florins at _Rome_.

November iii.

I went to visit Mr. _C. Boét_, a famous painter in enamel, who had

a salary from his late Majesty, whose picture, with those of other

confederate Princes, drawn by him he now shewed me. But that which is

most remarkable, he is at present working for this court the largest

piece, that ever was known in enamel, being an oval of eighteen inches

by fifteen; which contains the figures of the Emperor and Empress, King

and Queen of the _Romans_, with the Archduke, the four Archdutchesses,

and the two young Daughters of the King of the _Romans_. He was sent

for hither by his late Majesty on purpose for this work, for which when

finished he is by compact to receive four thousand ducats of gold. The

materials of it are a copper plate covered with a white enamel, which

being hardened in the fire, is afterwards painted over in colours of a

peculiar composition, with oil of lavender and rosemary; and then again

put into the fire to receive a gloss, and additional hardness; after

which it is liable to no accident, but that of breaking. It may be

observed, that all the red colours in this work are made of gold.

November vi.

This day by order of his Excellency I waited on the two young _Messieurs

Olmeus_ and others, in order to see the Emperor’s treasury the third

time, and thereby perfected my catalogue of those rarities. And his

Excellency being then preparing for his departure, the Emperor presented

him with six thousand dollars.

November viii.

His Excellency with his retinue now set forward from _Vienna_ towards

_Holland_, and proceed two german miles to _Entzersdorff_. A little

before the midway we cross the _Danube_ over a wooden bridge four hundred

paces in length, and continue near the banks of the river to the above

mentioned town. And as we continued there the following day, I walked

down to the banks of the _Danube_, where it flows under the castle of

_St. Leopold_, near _Cloyster Newburg_, and in the extreme point of _Mons

Cetius_.

November x.

This day we proceed two German miles and a half further to _Stockeran_,

and there meet C. _Schlick_, Mr. Stepney, Mr. Montague, and Mr.

_Gangain_, with whom we proceed three miles and a half further to our

lodgings at _Holibrun_. And from thence his Excellency, with the said

company, the next morning goes out an hour to Count _Sereny’s_, there to

wait on the King of the _Romans_, now returning from the campaign on the

_Rhine_. By one a clock the King and Queen arrived at the Count’s, where

his Excellency had an audience of both their Majesties; after which they

sat down to table, and his Excellency and company dined with the court,

and afterwards returned to _Holibrun_.

November xii.

This day we advance about five miles further in _Austria_, and then

crossing the _Teya_ enter into _Moravia_, now called _Makren_, and take

up our quarters at _Znaim_, the _Medoslanium_ of Ptolemy. This is a fair

and fortified town, tho of the old fashion, upon the river _Teya_, which

runs hence into the _Morawa_, antiently the _Marus_, and with that into

the _Danube_. In the year 1645 this town was taken and pillaged by the

Swedes. It has two market places, in each of which is a good fountain;

and in one of them the image of the _Virgin_, erected on a fair pillar,

and inscribed with a new sort of _Gloria Patri_, that is, LAVS DEO,

MARIAEQVE VIRGINI, SANCTISQUE SVIS. There are likewise several convents,

of Capuchines, Dominicans, Jesuits, and Premonstratensians; and it is

remarkable for excellent endive.

November xiii.

We stay this day at _Znaim_, and the day following proceed three German

miles to _Budwitz_, thro pleasant woods of fir, with fertile open

feilds. And moving from thence the next morning, three more German miles

carry us thro _Babitz_ and _Drumna_ to _Pernitz_, by a pleasant way,

thro a country sometimes open and well tilled; and at other times thro

delightful woods of pine or fir, intermixt with juniper and a few birch;

but scarce any other shrubs or trees in the whole country. At _Pernitz_

is a convent of _Paulins_, so called from _Sto. Francisco di Paula_, a

strict order, that eats no flesh nor fish throughout the year. In this

place live several Jews, who are bound to wear blue ruffs, as a mark of

distinction.

November xvi.

Two German miles thro woods of fir and arable ground bring us to _Iglaw_.

This city, reasonably well fortified, has a large and clean market place,

round which the houses have false fronts, and are handsomely painted

on the outside with pleasant landskips or histories. At the upper end

of it is a statue of the _Virgin_ on a column, like that at _Znaim_;

both seeming to be an imitation of that at _Vienna_. We bait an hour at

_Iglaw_, and then pass on one German mile to a small village, called

_Steken_. But immediately beyond the wall of _Iglaw_ we pass a river of

the same name, and there enter into _Bohemia_, whence we continue our

way over a large lake, with a road cast up betwixt the two branches of

it, and delicate woods of fir adorning its banks. This wood is of large

extent, and seems to be a continuation of the _Sylva Hercynia_ in this

country, now called _Behemerwaldt_.

November xvii.

We stay this day at _Steken_, where I had leisure to observe in general

concerning _Moravia_, that the country is fertile and well tilled, except

where it is overrun with pine or fir woods. The people are all slaves

to the lords of the several mansions; but this extends only to their

labour, not the property of their gain. The language of the place is

_Behemish_, a dialect of the _Sclavonian_; but at inns and other public

houses they ordinarily speak _Tuysech_. The government it divided into

five districts, of which there are as many captains, but the command of

the whole province is committed by the Emperor to Count _Thorn_. The

river _Morawa_ is likewise called _Mark_ by the Germans; which latter

name seems to relate to the antient inhabitants, the _Marcomanni_ (who

with the _Quadi_ were here settled) as the former name does to the

_Moravians_. Through the whole extent of the country we frequent meet

with large lakes, at the distance perhaps of an English mile.

November xviii.

This day we proceed one mile and a half to _Tuytschenbrodt_, an old

fortification on the river _Sazawa_, and from thence two miles to

_Habern_, in a wood on the right hand. _Tuytschenbrodt_ was the place,

where General _Zeiska_ beat the Emperor _Sigismund_, and by that defeat

drove him out of Bohemia.

November xix.

One mile brings us this day to _Janikaw_, and two more from thence to

_Czaslaw_; the place where _Ferdinand_ the second narrowly escaped being

assassinated by an Italian, hid for that purpose in an oven. Half a mile

farther carries us to a small hamlet, called _Wasser Cratz_. Of these

towns _Janikaw_ is the place, where the battle was fought betwixt the

Swedes and Imperialists in 1645; and _Czaslaw_, where General _Zeiska_

lies buried.

November xx.

From _Wasser Cratz_ we proceed one quarter of a German mile, and then

having the city of _Kuttenberg_ on our left hand, a little farther in

the road we pass by two Imperial mines, where they are now at work, and

dig up a mixt oar, consisting of copper, lead, and silver, a specimen of

which they then shewed us. At one mile and a half from our last lodging

we come to _Kottin_, and there breakfast. Then proceeding another mile

and a half, we arrive at _Blanyan_. From _Kottin_ flows the river _Elb_,

which takes its name about five miles below that place, and is there

scarce navigable. As we travel, we keep it in sight on the right hand,

and the woods still on the left.

November XXI.

Two miles and a half from _Branyan_ carry us to _Oval_, thro an open

arable country, with a continued tract of woods on our left hand. In the

midway we bait at the poor town of _Bohaimsbrodt_. But the day following

for two miles and a half we pass thro a pleasant grove of birch and pine,

and afterwards thro open ploughed feilds to _Prague_.

November xxiii.

His Excellency staying this day at _Prague_, I took that opportunity of

viewing every thing I could of that noble city, which is thought to be

the largest in Germany. It is inclosed with one intire wall, two third

parts of which are regularly divided into curtains and bastions; but the

remaining third is old and defenceless. Tho indeed the whole town is

commanded by ascending ground, that no fortification can make it long

defensible. The _Muldaw_, a large and rapid river, divides it into two

parts, which are again joined by a fair and stately bridge of stone,

seventeen hundred feet long and thirty five broad, supported by twenty

four arches. Both parts of the city are adorned with great variety of

magnificent buildings, the most remarkable of which I visited in this

order.