Κ̅Ω̅ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ
On a tower in that part of the wall, which includes the _seraglio_:
ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΜΕΓΑΛΟΥ ΕΝ ΚΥΡΙΩ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΩϹ
ΚΑΙ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟϹ.
Round the same _seraglio_:
ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΕΝ ΧΡΙϹΤΩ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟϹ
About the same place:
ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΜΙΧΑΗΛ ΠΙϹΤΩΝ ΕΝ Κ̅Ω̅
ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ.
June xvii.
About midday I saw the ceremonies of the _dervíse_ convent of the order
called _Meuleví_ at _Pera_, consisting of their _namáz_, somewhat longer
than is ordinary at other times and places. After which followed a
sermon, that is, a gallimaufry of dreams and nonsense, pronounced by the
prior of the convent, as he sat cross-leg’d on the seat of a two elbowed
wooden chair. This was succeeded by their music in a gallery over the
door; during which about fourteen _dervíses_ led up a religious dance
in the area of their theatre (for such is the figure and contrivance of
it) in which they turn round almost in the same place with incredible
swiftness, without either weariness or giddiness, for the space of half
an hour. By this exercise their brain is so habitually fortified against
dizziness, that one of them was able to hand upon the half moon of a
_minarée_ belonging to the _Solymanjá_, and from thence to salute the
_Grand Signior_ at his palace of _Cushcui_, at the same time firing off a
pistol, and drinking a dish of coffee.
About five this evening I took leave of Mr. Goodfellow, and embarked
upon a boat manned with seven hands, which I had hired for ten dollars
to transport my self, my horse, and two servants from _Galata_ to
_Montagnia_, being the space of two leagues. When having a fair wind,
which by degrees increased, and exposed me to the fatigue of a nauseous
sea sickness, after midnight I entered the two capes, which form the
_Sinus Cianus_. In this bay is that famous fountain mentioned by _Virgil_:
_Hylan nautae quo fonte relictum_
_Clamassent; cum littus, Hyla, Hyla, omne sonaret[89]._
June xviii.
By six this morning I landed safe at _Montagnia_, a small Turkish town,
which seems to have been the _Apaméa_ of the antients; _Cius_, or _Prusa
ad Arganthonium_, being now a little village, that lies farther towards
the utmost corner of the bay. Here I hire a guide and horse to carry my
self, servants, and baggage to _Prusia_, antiently _Prusa ad Olympum_,
where by God’s blessing I arrive safely about midday; and taking up my
lodgings in the great silk _kane_, I there determine to repose till to
morrow morning.
_Prusia_ is a large and fair city, situate at the foot of _Olympus
Mysenus_, a mountain of exceeding hight, and covered with perpetual
snow; which from its bowels furnishes the adjacent city with many large
and plentiful fountains, and by the same means gives nourishment to the
beautiful and flourishing trees, which intermix themselves with the
houses of the place. These are chiefly mulberries, which maintain the
industrious worm, that produces the white and lovely silk of _Prusia_;
which I here saw spun from caldrons of hot water, the several cods
yeilding at once three threads upon a wheel, turned by the person
who tends the caldron. Besides the several cold streams issuing from
_Olympus_, there flows from the same origin a plentiful sulphureous
chanel, which is collected into four hot natural baths much frequented,
and with marvelous success, as is here generally beleived. The several
fabrics of the baths are very stately, of which I shall describe that,
which is called the new one, for a specimen of the rest. It consists
first of a large oblong room paved with marble, enclosed all round with
free stone, and covered at the top with three noble cupolas leaded on
the outside. Round the inward walls of the room are _sophás_, about a
yard high, and two broad, sufficient for the undressing of three hundred
men. In the middle is a round stone cistern, overflowing with cold water,
which continually washes the pavement, and serves for other uses of the
bagnio. From this room you enter into a second moderately warm, having
on the sides oblong troughs of hot water, and in the middle a fountain
of cold; the walls, roof, and pavement being all of white polished
marble. From hence you are led by the attendants of the bagnio into a
third apartment of an orbicular figure, paved, roofed, and walled with
richer marble, that is, of more curious veins and various colours. The
pavement hereof is sunk into a round cistern about six yards diameter,
which is constantly full of hot water to the depth of about six feet,
and surrounded with a stone bench for the ease of those, who care not to
swim, or walk about the cistern. As the water constantly runs from thence
by passages at the bottom of the cistern, so is it continually supplied
by three large chanels, which from as many sides of the room yeild a
plentiful stream of water, almost scalding at the first touch.
Besides these baths there is not much remarkable in _Prusia_, except what
may be collected from the history of the place; as that it has the ruins
of a castle, built by one of the _Comneni_, as appears from the following
inscription:
ΑΝΗΓΕΡΘΗ ΟΥΤΟϹ Ο ΠΥΡΓΟϹ
ΠΑΡΑ ΤΟΥ ΕΥϹΕΒΕϹΤΑΤΟΥ ΗΜΩΝ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΩϹ
ΘΕΟΔΟΡΟΥ ΚΟΜΝΗΝΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΛΑϹΚΑΡΙ
... ΜΗΝΙ ΟΚΤΟΒΡΙΩ
It was made the first capital of the Turkish empire by _Osmán_, or
_Ottoman_, the founder of that monarchy. And it has the monument not
only of the said _Ottoman_, but likewise of his immediate successors,
_Orchán_, _Solymán_, _Amurát_, _Bagazet_, and _Mahomet_ the first.
June xxi.
This morning about eleven a clock I set forward on my journey, in company
of a _caraván_ bound to several parts on the road to _Smyrna_. With these
I now travel three hours, and then _conáck_ with them upon a convenient
plat of grass, on the plains of _Prusia_. In the midway we cross the
river _Hippius_ runing thro these plains into the _Sinus Cianus_.
June xxii.
We travel this day to the left of the _Palus Artynia_, which being fed
from mount _Olympus_, extends itself the length of many miles, and shews
several little islands, in which are one or two compact Greek towns. At
length the lake vents itself by the chanel of the river _Rhyndacus_, at
which we arrive about six a clock this evening, and passing it at a long
wooden bridge, near the ruins of another built of stone, we take up our
_conáck_ on the opposite bank, in a village now called _Ulubat_, but
antiently _Apollonia ad Rhyndacum_.
June xxiii.
We ride eight hours, and then bait on the banks of a little river, which
runs towards those called the _Adrastian plains_. Three hours farther, at
the village of _Susegierlíck_ we cross the fair large and sandy chanel of
the _Aesépus_, and proceeding still two hours more we at length _conáck_
upon the hills.
June xxiv.
We this day pass a street called the _Irongate_, and in seven hours
arrive at the fair capacious _kane_ of _Mandahóra_, where are seven rude
porphyry pillars thought to be of _Trojan_ original. Here we repose
till towards evening, and then once more crossing the _Aesépus_, which
rising in _Ida_ continues its course under the houses of this village, we
proceed about an hour, and then lodge in a grassy plat about an hour to
the left of _Balihísar_.
June xxv.
Rising now a little after midnight we proceed seven hours, and then
resting in the woods till three in the afternoon, we pass by the usual
_conáck_ of _Kurugelchíck_, and one hour and an half from thence at
length lodge in a pleasant green spot of ground on the mountain _Temnus_.
June xxvi.
By four a clock we proceed, and having passed the _Temnus_, by seven
a clock we cross the chanel of the _Caicus_, which here is but small,
not being far distant from its fountain head. But an hour farther at
_Gelemba_ we again observe it now much enlarged, and runing by the _kane_
and houses of that place, from whence it bends its course on the left
hand to _Pergamus_. At this _kane_ we repose half an hour, and afterwards
in the plains two or three hours more; but about midday we again remount,
and in four hours cross the _Hyllus_, at a strait betwixt two hills; in
an hour after which, in the midst of a fruitful and delicious plain, we
arrive at _Thyatira_.
June xxvii.
I repose this day at _Thyatira_, which by the Turks is now called
_Akhísar_. My design in staying here was to observe the scattered remains
of architecture, which are to be seen in many places, together with
some inscriptions. The most remarkable of these is one published, but
erroneously, by Sir _George Wheler_[90]; which I copied from a stone
coffin, on which it is cut.
ΦΑΒΙΟΣ ΖΩΣΙΜΟΣ ΚΑΤΑΣΚΕΥΑΣΑΣ ΣΟΡΟΝ ΕΘΕΤΟ ΕΠΙ ΤΟ-
ΠΟΥ ΚΑΘΑΡΟΥ ΟΝΤΟΣ ΠΡΟ ΤΗΣ ΠΟΛΕΩΣ ΠΡΟΣ ΤΩΙ ΣΑΜ-
ΒΑΘΕΙΩΙ[91] ΕΝ ΤΩΙ ΧΑΛΔΑΙΟΥ ΠΕΡΙΒΟΛΩΙ ΠΑΡΑ ΤΗΝ ΔΗ-
ΜΟΣΙΑΝ ΟΔΟΝ ΕΑΥΤΩΙ ΕΦ ΩΙ[92] ΤΕΘΗ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΙ ΓΛΥΚΥ-
ΤΑΤΗΙ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΙ ΑΥΡΗΛΙΑΙ ΠΟΝΤΙΑΝΗΙ ΜΗΔΕ-
ΝΟΣ ΕΧΟΝΤΟΣ ΕΤΕΡΟΥ ΕΞΟΥΣΙΑΝ ΘΕΙΝΑΙ ΤΙΝΑ ΕΙΣ
ΤΗΝ ΣΟΡΟΝ ΤΑΥΤΗΝ ΟΣ ΔΕ ΑΝ ΤΟΛΜΗΣΗ Η ΠΟΙΗΣΗ
ΠΑΡΑ ΤΑΥΤΑ ΔΩΣΕΙ ΜΕΝ ΕΙΣ ΤΗΝ ΠΟΛΙΝ ΘΥΑΤΕΙ-
ΡΗΝΩΝ ΑΡΓΥΡΙΟΥ ΔΗΝΑΡΙΑ ΧΕΙΛΙΑ ΠΕΝΤΑΚΟΣΙΑ ΕΙΣ
ΔΕ ΤΟ ΙΕΡΩΤΑΤΟΝ ΤΑΜΕΙΟΝ ΔΗΝΑΡΙΑ ΔΙΣΧΙΛΙΑ ΠΕΝ-
ΤΑΚΟΣΙΑ ΓΕΙΝΟΜΕΝΟΣ ΥΠΕΥΘΥΝΟΣ ΕΞΩΘΕΝ ΤΩΙ
ΤΗΣ ΤΥΜΒΩΡΥΧΙΑΣ ΝΟΜΩΙ ΤΑΥΤΗΣ ΤΗΣ ΕΠΙΓΡΑΦΗΣ
ΕΓΡΑΦΗ ΑΠΛΑ ΔΥΩ ΩΝ ΤΟ ΕΤΕΡΟΝ ΕΤΕΘΗ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΑΡ-
ΧΕΙΟΝ ΕΓΕΝΕΤΟ ΕΝ ΤΗΙ ΛΑΜΠΡΟΤΑΤΗΙ ΘΥΑΤΕΙΡΗ-
ΝΩΝ ΠΟΛΕΙ ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΩΙ ΚΑΤΙΛΛΙΩΙ ΣΕΒΗΡΩΙ ΜΗΝΟΣ
ΑΥΔΗΝΑΙΟΥ[93] ΤΡΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΔΕΚΑΤΗΙ ΥΠΟ ΜΗΝΟΦΙΛΟΝ
ΙΟΥΛΙΑΝΟΥ ΔΗΜΟΣΙΟΝ[94]
About five in the evening I begin to move, having now left the _caraván_,
and purposing to travel all night towards _Magnesia_. Before it is dark I
again ford the _Hyllus_, and after that proceed over those fair plains,
in which _Scipio Asiaticus_ first won the empire of Asia for the Romans
by the defeat of king _Antiochus_[95], as we find it described by Livy.
June xxviii.
By nine a clock this morning I reach _Magnesia_, where I repose myself
the remaining part of the day with the following night. And then mounting
by five the next morning, after a refreshment of about three hours I
arrive at _Smyrna_ safe, and in good health, by three a clock in the
afternoon.
Μόνῳ τῷ Θεῷ τῷ ὁδηγοῦντι δόξα.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
An Account of a journey from _Smyrna_ to _Adrianople_, at the end of the
year MDCCI, and begining of MDCCII.
February x. _A. D._ 1701.
This day about nine a clock, being a very rainy morning, I began my
departure for _Adrianople_ together with Mr. Farington; being favoured
with the company of Consul Raye, Signior _Hochepied_, and nine or ten of
our nation, as far as _Hadgelar_, where we were detained this evening by
the rain.
February xi.
The rain continuing, we still remain at _Hadgelar_, in the house and
company of Signior _Laspaul_. Among the sepulchers adjoining to this
village, upon a stone pillar, are to be seen the four following imperfect
inscriptions, cut at different times.
Β. Η. ΣΕΥ .. ΤΥΧΗΣ ... Π. ΣΕΒΗΡΕΙΝΑ ΣΕΒ.
ΤΗΣ ΑΣΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΔΙΣ ΝΕΩΚΟΡΩΝ
ΤΩΝ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩΝ ΣΜΥΡΝΑΙΩΝ
ΠΟΛΙΣ ΑΝΕΣΤΗΣΕΝ ΕΠΙ ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΟΥ
ΠΟΛΛΙΑΝΟΥ ΓΕΝΤΙΑΝΟΥ[96]
FL. VALENTIANO
ET FL. VALENTI
VICTORR. S. P.
CONSTAN ..........
CONSTANT .........
.. NORR. CAESS. D D
....... VI ....
February xii.
We set forward this morning by six a clock, and about midday journeying
to the left of mount _Sipylus_, and the fair city of _Magnesia_, we first
cross a small bridge over a river, which feeds the _Hermus_, and about
one a clock pass the _Hermus_ itself, on a bridge of an hundred and sixty
paces in length. From hence we ride half an hour on the silver banks of
that pleasant river, and thence over the plain to _Tartalécui_, where we
_conáck_.
February xiii.
We proceed on those fair plains, which lead towards _Thyatira_, and
within an hour of the town come to the _Hyllus_ or _Phrygius_, not now
passable at its usual ford; we therefore ride along its banks, and
crossing near to _Thyatira_ arrive there in six hours from our last
_conáck_. This city is seated in a pleasant and fruitful plain, well
watered and wooded, and rich in many productions, but particularly
that of excellent cottons. About the city I observed a great quantity
of misseltoe on pear and almond trees, so thick on some of them, as to
form the appearance of a true evergreen, covered with its own leaves and
branches. And the like I afterwards observed on an alder, not far from
_Sorrícui_. I here took these three Greek inscriptions, which have not,
that I remember, been observed by others; and were before omitted by me,
when at this place. The first of which is as follows.
ΑΓΑΘΗΙ ΤΥΧΗΙ
ΟΙ ΠΕΡΙ ΤΟΝ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΑ ΤΩΝ ΠΡΩΤΩΝ ΓΥΜΝΑΣΙΩΝ
ΚΑΙ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΟ ΑΡΧΑΙΟΝ ΤΟΥ ΤΡΙΤΟΥ ΝΕΑΝΙΣΚΙΟΙ[97] ΑΥΡ.
ΘΗΣΕΑ ΝΙΚΗΦΟΡΟΥ ΘΥΑΤΕΙΡΗΝΟΝ ΝΙΚΗΣΑΝΤΑ ΕΝ-
ΔΟΞΩΣ ΠΑΓΚΡΑΤΙΟΝ ΕΝ ΤΩΙ ΥΠΟ ΑΥΤΩΝ ΕΠΙΤΕΛΟΥ-
ΜΕΝΩΙ ΕΠΙΝΕΙΚΩΙ ΣΕΒΗΡΕΙΩΙ ΑΓΩΝΙ ΥΠΟ ΕΠΙΣΤΑΤΗΝ
ΑΥΡ. ΑΤΤΙΚΟΝ ΖΩΣΙΜΟΥ[98]
The second is this:
ΛΙΚΙΝΝΙΟΝ ΡΟΥΦΙΝΟΝ ΣΥΓΚΛΗΤΙΚΟΝ ΥΙΟΝ ΛΙΚΙΝΝΙΟΥ
ΡΟΥΦΙΝΟΥ ΟΙ ΠΕΡΙ ΤΟΝ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΑ ΠΡΩΤΩΝ ΓΥΜΝΑΣΙΩΝ
ΝΕΑΝΙΣΚΟΙ ΚΑΙ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΟ ΑΡΧΑΙΟΝ ΤΟΥ ΤΡΙΤΟΥ.
The third thus:
ΚΛΑΥΔΙΑ .... ΚΑΤΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕ ΤΟΝ ΒΩΜΟΝ ΜΟΣΚΙΛΙΑΝΩ
ΤΩ ΤΕΚΝΩ ΜΝΗΜΗΣ ΕΝΕΚΕΝ ΕΑΝ ΔΕ ΤΙΣ ΜΕΤΑΘΗ ΑΥΤΟ
ΥΠΟΚΕΙΣΕΤΑΙ ΤΩ ΦΙΣΚΩ 𐆖. Φ.
To these may be added the following military epitaph.
C. IVL. CRE. S. CAEN. S. MILES
XII L. VIXIT ANNOS XXXV
MILITAVIT ANNIS XV FL CASTVS
FRATER ET PRIMVS HERES EX TESTA
MENTO IVSSVS POSVIT
February xiv.
We set out by eight a clock this morning, and at an hour’s distance from
the city once more cross the _Hyllus_ at the meeting of two opposite
hills, which shut in the plains of _Thyatira_. Hence we pass thro a
forest to _Gelemba_, an hour before which place occur caves with square
and regular doors cut out of solid rocks. At _Gelemba_ we lodge in the
great _kane_, by the door of which at the distance of ten or twelve
yards runs the famous _Caicus_. Here we drank a pleasant sort of Turkish
liquor, made of grapes steeped in water with flower of mustard seed.
February xv.
By break of day we set forward, and in one hour’s travel begin to mount
the foot of _Temnus_, a low but large and difficult mountain, and at
the same place cross the first branch of the _Caicus_, not far from its
fountain. We pass the rest of this day thro a stony road on the _Temnus_,
and upon the same mountain six hours from our _conáck_ lodge at the
unpleasant _Kurugelchíck_; where we were joined by two Turks, _Mustaphá_
and _Chalíl_, who accompanied us to _Adrianople_.
February xvi.
We travel still over the _Temnus_, and on our right hand discover a
large open vale on the top of the mountain, rich and well cultivated.
In somewhat more than six hours we had passed the _Temnus_, and enter
into a rich plain extended all along the backside of _Ida_, now _Cordág_;
at the foot of which, about four miles distant from the road we descry
the agreable seat of _Balihísar_. From this side of _Ida_ thro a rich
and fertile campain flows the river _Aesépus_, now called _Simow_ by the
Turks, which we cross by an old bridge at the village of _Mandahóra_, and
there take our _conáck_ in a large and convenient _kane_; which is more
to be noted for its seven large pillars of course porphyry, now employed
to support the roof of this barbarous edifice, but might possibly once
stand in some fabric of antient _Troy_, from whence _Mandahóra_ is
distant about ten hours.
February xvii.
By eight a clock we set forward from _Mandahóra_, leaving the _Aesépus_
to surround those hills on our right hand, whilst we proceed a shorter
way, over small hills and dales, to meet it again in six hours and a half
at _Susegierlíck_, where we were entertained in the public _kane_ with
excellent pike taken in that river.
February xviii.
We begin to bend our course more directly towards the _Hellespont_,
and in order thereto proceed over a tract of gentle mountains, which
_Homer_ calls πόδα νείατον Ἴδης[99]; now frequented with wild beasts,
but pleasant for the prospect they afford us on our right hand, whilst
we pursue with our eye the whole course of the _Aesépus_ almost as far
as _Mihalíck_, where it enters the sea. In three hours we pass by an old
village and adjoining castle called _Minyás_, which name it likewise
lends to the neighbouring plain and lake; the former of which I take to
have been antiently called the plains of _Zelia_, and the latter the
λίμνη Δασκυλίτις[100]. Not far from hence flows a river by the modern
name of _Mulvetelée_, passing into the adjoining lake; after which are
small hills and pleasant villages, till in five hours we descend into
the plains of _Zelia_, which are pleasant, fertile, and well cultivated.
Here we pass thro large fields of wallnut trees, which bring us in five
hours and a half to the banks of a fair and broad river; which I take
to be the _Tarsius_ of the antients, and by the Turks is now vulgarly
called _Tarza_. We were here obliged to ferry over with our horses three
together in a boat, the stream being not securely fordable. In one hour
and half from thence, thro a level and verdant campain to the left of the
above mentioned lake, we come to _Humumlée_, and there _conáck_. The lake
we leisurely viewed from our _conáck_, and could compute it to be about
thirty miles in circumference, being always full of water, and stored
with plenty of fish, among which it then furnished us with delicious
pikes. We were here informed, that the river, we lately passed, empties
it self into this lake, from whence by a new chanel it takes its course
to _Mihalíck_, where together with the _Aesépus_ it soon after falls into
the sea. And directly beyond this lake we then beheld the fair exalted
hills of _Cyzicus_, and the _Peninsula Cyzicena_.
February xix.
By six this morning we leave _Humumlée_, where we had been lodged not
inconveniently in a farmer’s house, and riding thro a continued campain
begin to view the snowy head of _Ida_. But in some time we again
lose sight of it, and in five hours from our setting out approach to
_Bozacgée_, seated in the _Adrastian_ plains[101]; and at the same place
to a large and fair river, by the Turks named _Bocléw_[102], which we
leave on our left hand, till in two hours we cross it by a dangerous
wooden bridge near _Sorrícui_[103], and there _conáck_.
February xx.
By six we leave _Sorrícui_, and proceed a little way, where a fair is
held at _St. Georgetide_, which continues for the space of ten days, and
is much frequented. We then mount a high and steep hill, which bears a
stately and extended wood of oak; the lower shrubs of which produce a
quantity of galls, and at the roots of these the ground is overspread
with an excellent and well scented sage. On the top of this hill in three
hours we have a near prospect of the sea, and isle of _Marmora_, with
one side of the _Peninsula_ of _Cyzicus_. By the fifth hour we begin to
descend on the other side into a pleasant and green plain, and by the
seventh arrive at _Dimotico_, a market town, vulgarly so called from the
corruption, as I suppose, of the antient _Didymotichos_. At this place
occurs a moderate river with a wooden bridge; and an hour beyond the
town a large one with a fair bridge of stone, built by the munificence
of _Sultan Mahomet_ the fourth. Here are to be observed the marks of a
royal way, denoted by two equal and regular barrows on each side, by
which lies the _Grand Signior’s_ road to the wars. Hitherto our way had
all along surrounded mount _Ida_, which often favoured us with the sight
of its hoary head, and many rivers flowing from its watry bowels. We had
now an hour farther to reach our _conáck_ at _Pismetlée_; but losing our
way, we were conducted by a cowherd (who was cudgel’d into this civility
by _Mustaphá bey_) to a small pleasant village an hour farther in our
journey, where being obliged to force our reception, we were thereupon
lodged in the _mosque_ of the place. This will appear an instance very
singular in Turkey, and was looked upon as an abomination by the _imám_
of the parish; who could not enter that place of his worship on the
following morning, without saluting us three times with _Stifer Alláh_,
that is, _God forbid_.
February xxi.
In an hard road betwixt barren hills we travel this day towards
_Jerdáck_, a village which is the _scale_ for passing the _Hellespont_,
seated within half an hour of the antient _Lampsacus_. This road led us
within four hours to the shore of the _Propontis_, along which we proceed
four hours farther to our _conáck_, where the sea contracts it self into
that strait chanel, betwixt _Lampsacus_ and _Callipolis_. Here we find
a large _kane_, in which are about twelve antient marble pillars, each
of one fair intire stone, some round, others chanel’d, and of various
orders; all which I conclude to have been undoubted reliques of the
antient _Lampsacus_. In the yard of the _mosque_ at _Jerdáck_ I took the
two following Greek inscriptions
ΑΓΑΘΗ ΤΥΧΗ
ΤΙ. ΚΛΑΥΔΙΟΝ ΦΛΩΡΟΝ ΠΥΚΤΗΝ ΝΕΙΚΗΣΑΝΤΑ ΕΝΔΟΞΩΣ
ΠΑΙΔΩΝ ΑΓΩΝΑ ΤΩΝ ΜΕΓΑΛΩΝ ΤΥΧΕΙΩΝ ΑΓΩΝΟΘΕΤΟΥΝ-
ΤΟΣ Γ. ΙΟΥΛ. ΕΛΕΩΝΕΩΣ ΥΠΟ ΠΑΙΔΟΤΡΙΒΗΝ ΚΛΑΥΔ.
ΚΥΡΟΣ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΟΥ ΤΗΝ ΤΑΦΗΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΝ ΕΝΑΓΙΣΜΟΝ
ΤΩ ΠΑΤΡΙ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΩ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΟΥ
February xxii.
By nine this morning we transport ourselves and horses by boat from
_Jerdáck_ to _Gallipoli_, and in three quarters of an hour arrive by
God’s blessing on the European shore; where we bid a joyful farewel
to that of Asia, after a severe sea sickness, which I endured in the
passage. At which time three years and three months had passed, since my
first arrival at _Smyrna_.
_Callipolis_, now called _Gallipoli_, was taken by the Turks in the reign
of _Orchán_, and _anno Hegirae_ 760. It is now a city considerably large,
but thinly peopled, and decayed in commerce; tho it still plentifully
enjoys that of cottons and aniseed. It stands upon a blunt point of land,
betwixt two small open bays, of which that to the north is exceeding
pleasant, and has on its green banks two fair Turkish sepulchers, the
newer and more magnificent being that of _Sinán pashá_. Adjoining is a
_kane_ of very gentile fashion, with a _mosque_, and other instances
of charity. The southern bay has the walls of the antient arsenal, for
the lodging of stores and galleys, which formerly wintered in this
place. Besides which the vast rocks, which lie before the town, are
very remarkable; being a strange but natural mixture of sand, pebbles,
and cockleshells, of which materials all the houses of the town are
built. Here I saw a stone figure of our _Savior’s_ baptism in the river
_Jordan_, with another of the _B. Virgin_, carved contrary to the
practice of the Greek church in _basso relievo_.
February xxiii.
We remain at _Gallipoli_ this and the following day, expecting Mr.
Farington’s _caraván_. The breadth of the _Hellespont_ is here much
inlarged, which at _Lampsacus_, according to _Xenophon_, was but fifteen
furlongs[104].
February xxv.
We set forward from _Gallipoli_ in a smooth and pleasant road, which
by degrees ascending begins quickly to show us the narrow _isthmus_ of
the _Chersonésus_, with the _Propontis_ on one side, and the gulph of
_Cardia_, or _Sinus Melas_, on the other, the extreme neck of land being
scarce three miles broad. Our road now inclines to the left hand, and so
brings us round the blunt end of the gulph, into which flows the fair
river _Melas_, which about the fourth hour from _Gallipoli_ we cross
at a regular and well built stone bridge. Hence we have a stony and
mountainous way to _Allalmalée_, a Christian village, where we _conáck_.
Before bed time we had here the company of the poor ignorant παπᾶς, who
among other things told us, that he lately gave the bishop of _Heracléa_
seventy dollars to ordain his son a priest.
February xxvi.
We depart from _Allalmalée_, and in two hours and a half arrive at
_Malgara_, where I observed a Turkish drink called _bozók_, being a
whitish thick beer made of millet seed. This is a large and pleasant
town, abounding in the production of honey, and bears the name of a lady,
who redeemed its security from plunder for a vast sum of money, from the
first Turkish conqueror. It is now reserved as a place of banishment
for the prime ministers of the empire. We proceed homeward till about
the sixth hour of this day’s journey, when having lost my watch the
preceding evening, we searched the company upon some suspicion we had
entertained of a _catergée_, who yesterday joined us; and accordingly
we find it concealed in the corner of his breeches. In ten hours we
arrive at _Derrícui_ a small Christian village, and there _conáck_. I
must not omit, that this day we discovered to the left the mountains of
_Samothrace_, the course of the _Hebrus_, and more forward the snowy top
of _Rodope_.
February xxvii.
In two hours from our _conáck_ we arrive at _Uzunkuprée_, a town which
has its name from the fair adjoining bridge of an hundred and sixty six
arches, and by _Saidino_ is called _Ponte d’Erchiene_[105]. We were
the full space of fifteen minutes in passing this bridge, and towards
the further end, which is the most conspicuous part, we observed ten
or twelve heads carved on the battlements, that enclose the bridge, in
memory, as it is said, of so many chief workmen strangled by _Sultan
Morát_ the first (who founded it) for building it so narrow, as not to
admit of two carts at once. In two hours farther we arrive at the sandy
and delicious banks of _Hebrus_, just opposite to the city and castle of
_Dimotico_, where _Sultan Morát_ began to seat the palace of his emperial
residence. From hence we pass along the bank of that slow, but then
plentiful river[106], and after two hours and a half take up our lodgings
in a cold inconvenient hovel at _Elchilée_.
February xxviii.
By five this morning we proceed in a level sandy road on the banks of
the _Hebrus_, where we observe a vast quantity of wild fowl, and by nine
arrive at the palace of my Lord Paget in _Adrianople_, being filled with
admiration at the beauty of the river, campain, and prospect of so fair a
city.
_Adrianople_ is seated on the _Hebrus_, at the place where it receives the
_Tunsa_ and the _Harda_. It is a fair and compact city, about five miles
in circumference, rising gently on the side of a small hill from the
banks of the _Hebrus_ and _Tunsa_[107]. What is there remarkable, may be
reduced to the _seraglio_, _mosques_, and _sharshées_. The _seraglio_ is
built in a flat and verdant plain, at the foot of the city betwixt the
_Hebrus_ and _Tunsa_, but more immediately upon the banks of the latter.
It is surrounded almost on all sides with a thick grove of beech and
elm, which within form the resemblance of a park, and outwardly yeild
a grateful prospect, in regard that the countrey about it is almost
wholly naked of wood. A square wall encloses the fabric, which is truly
mean, and of a confused intricate figure; but, as is commonly said,
well contrived for convenience. The matter is plain free stone, and the
covering of lead. Nothing can be more grateful to the eye, than the sight
of this level verdant situation; and yet in regard of its lowness, and
too near approach to the rivers, nothing more unwholesome. It seems to
stand in the very same place, where _Constantine_ gave that famous defeat
to _Licinnius_[108].
The _mosques_ observable in this place are those called _Eskijamí_,
the _Three Sheríffs_, _Sultan Bajazet_, and _Sultan Selím_. The first
of these is so called from its antiquity, which _Morát_ the first
here established, and converted to that profane use from a Christian
church, of which it still retains the intire figure. The second is to
be observed for the abundance of porphyry, which appears in the fabric,
and the various architecture of the four _minarées_, together with
many serpentine pillars, which support the porticos of the area. The
third likewise has many serpentine pillars round the area, and those
of interrupted veins and distinct materials, which seem to persuade
one, that they are of a cast substance. But the greatest beauty of this
city, and as some think of the whole empire, is the _mosque_ of _Sultan
Selím_ the second, built by him out of materials brought chiefly from
the ruins of _Famagusta_, in the island of _Cyprus_. Yet in regard that
the area is not square, nor supported with so rich or correspondent
pillars, excepting four that adorn the front, I esteem it inferior to
the two noble _mosques_ of _Solymán_ and _Achmét_ at _Constantinople_.
Otherwise it is a fair structure, built with great conformity of its
several parts, and like a theatre consisting of one stately room ending
upwards in a cupola. It is adorned with four regular and beautiful
_minarées_, each of which has two hundred forty four stairs leading into
the uppermost balcony. For in each of them are three balconies, that
imitate the capitals of pillars, between which the whole body of the
column is regularly chanel’d. One of these is famous for having three
staircases winding one within another, of which one opens into the three
balconies, another into the two highest, and the third only into the last
of all. From thence we once took the opportunity of viewing the several
parts and precincts of the city, the plat of the _seraglio_, the course
of the rivers, and the face of the countrey below, with the busy care of
the several mortals, wandering like so many ants on that spot of earth
then subject to our eye. Here I could not but pleasantly recollect those
_templa serena_ of _Lucretius_, _L._ i. ℣. 8.
_Despicere unde queas alios, passimque videre_
_Errare, atque viam palantes quaerere vitae._
Adjoining to _Sultan Bajazet_ I was shewn a madhouse or bedlam, which
is a noble building of a round figure, covered with a regular cupola,
and having a large area in the middle, and therein a cistern of water;
but conveniently divided all round into six chambers made archwise, and
opening on one side into the area. Here were kept three madmen, all
furnished with clean mats, and tied close down to the pavement by an
iron chain fastned about their neck for greater security.
The _sharshées_ are two long and fair porticos, walled with brick or
stone on each side, and securely arched over head, so as to resist fire.
The shorter of these adjoins to _Sultan Selím_, and is appropriated
to the shoemakers: but the other, being about four hundred paces long
and six broad, is filled with shops of various trades; all which are
shallow niches in the wall of equal hight and breadth, and in general
so regularly contrived, that the whole represents a beautiful and rich
gallery.
The whole way from _Gallipoli_ to this place lies thro a campain rich and
fertile, abounding with villages, and those almost all Christian. However
it wants the lovely fountains, frequent woods, and pretious shrubs of
Asia.
March iv.
Sir Robert Sutton, successor to my Lord Paget in his embassy to this
port, who arrived at _Adrianople_ about Christmas last, had now his
audience of the grand _vizír_. My Lord Paget, with the retinue of his own
family, and the English merchants now resident in this place, repaired
to the palace of his successor about twelve a clock. At the same time
came thither from the _vizír_, the _chiaush bashá_, with an horse richly
furnished for Sir Robert, and about thirty others for the use of his
retinue. From hence the two ambassadors conducted by the _chiaush bashá_,
and attended by a large retinue of the English nation, proceeded to the
palace of the _vizír_. Upon their arrival into the room of audience, the
_vizír_ soon entered, supported by his _kayá_ and the _reis effendi_,
and congratulated with acclamations from his whole attendance. He seated
himself in a corner of the _sophá_, and the ambassadors sat before him on
two stools. After the old ambassador had presented his successor, _Mauro
Cordato_, who is master of the ceremonies, and _dragoman_ to the _Ottoman
Port_, gave and returned the ordinary forms. Then Sir Robert delivered
his Majesty’s letter to the _vizír_, after which both ambassadors were
treated with coffee, sherbet, and incense, and the whole ceremony at
length concluded with the distribution of about twenty four _caftans_.
The _vizír_ is about sixty years of age, of short stature, and a meek
serene countenance; tho at this time somewhat moved with concern for the
loss of his only son of two years of age. At this ceremony he appeared in
the _selimée_ turbant, which is a cap of state, and was conceived to do
an honour to the audience. It resembles the form of a sugar loaf, only
indented at the bottom on four sides, and bound obliquely with a gold
ribban.
March x.
Sir Robert Sutton had his audience of the _Grand Signior_ at the
_seraglio_ of this place, whither he rode about seven a clock on a horse
of state, conducted as before by the _chiaush bashá_, and attended by
all the gentlemen of the English nation. At these audiences it is the
custom of the Turks to show somewhat of the discipline of their soldiery,
together with the process of their justice at the _diván_. And therefore
so soon as his Excellency entered at the first gate of the _seraglio_,
into a large and green court, some companies of the _janisaries_, ranged
on the opposite side, ran with a great but orderly agility, to seize
several dishes of their broth, placed at equal distances on the area
of the court; after which they were remanded by the _churbegées_, who
ran among the ranks, and instead of words of command ordered them by
a certain gentle hissing into their respective stations. During this
entertainment his Excellency advanced towards the _diván_, which is an
oblong ground room, opening on the front into a gallery, by which only it
is separated from the court above mentioned. It is surrounded on three
sides with benches, covered with embroidered silk, and the floor is laid
with carpets; otherwise it has no ornaments, nor embellishments of the
walls. On the middle of the principal bench, where it faces the door, sat
the grand _vizír_, having one crimson cushion under him, and another to
support his feet, by which only he is distinguished from other ministers
of the _diván_. On his right hand upon the same bench sat the _caimekám_,
and _Abdollá pashá_ son of the late _Mustaphá Kioprili_; but on his left
hand the two _cadileskérs_, the one for Europe, and the other for Asia.
The two side benches were took up on the right hand by the _nishangeé
bashá_, and on the left by the _tefterdár_. Sitting in this order, and
maintaining a profound silence, they dispatched several causes of _meum_
and _tuum_, in the sight of the ambassador and his retinue; in which
there was no other process, than the reading several succinct cases to
the _vizír_, together with the depositions of the witnesses, upon which
he pronounced his verdict, and the parties were immediately dismissed.
But in these, and other affairs of the like kind, the _reis effendi_ and
_teskergée bashá_ also assist; the former of which acts as solicitor
and secretary to the _diván_, and the latter is the gentleman usher,
who carries all messages and papers betwixt the _Grand Signior_ and the
_vizír_. In the mean time the _Grand Signior_, tho he is never personally
present in the _diván_, yet he is at his pleasure a witness and overseer
of all that passes there, by means of a lattice window, which looks out
of his apartments just over the seat of the _vizír_. These ceremonies
ended, there were brought in divers tables and placed before the _vizír_,
the _caimekám_, the _nishangée_, and the _tefterdár_; all which being
presently furnished with various Turkish dishes, the ambassador sat down
to eat with the _vizír_, and several gentlemen of the English nation with
the other ministers. After this repast (the _vizír_ having first demanded
leave for an audience) the ambassador and all the rest of the English
gentlemen retired into a distant part of the gallery, which fronts the
chamber of the _diván_, and other lodgings of the _seraglio_, where they
were all vested, and then sat down in order till the _diván_ arose, and
the several ministers proceeded to the apartments of the _Grand Signior_,
the latter preceding, and the _vizír_ closing the procession. Soon after
his Excellency was called to take his audience, to which himself, and
four gentlemen, who were permitted to follow him, were conducted by two
_capigées_, who led them on each hand, in a rude and hasty manner. By
these they were thus carried from the outward gallery into a square paved
court, and from thence into a railed entry, that landed them immediately
in a ground room, which was the presence chamber of the _Grand Signior_.
It was a small room, of a square figure, lined on the sides and floor
with crimson silk, and that embellished with an high and thick embroidery
of golden branches. In one corner was erected an high _sophá_ about
two yards square, adorned with four rich cushions, and an answerable
_minderá_, all of which were in a manner intirely covered with embroidery
of pearl. On this sat the _Grand Signior_, regarding the ambassador
in an oblique posture, and sinking so deep in the _minderá_, that his
thighs and legs were not to be distinguished. The other ornaments of
the room were two windows, each furnished with two cushions, answerable
to those of the _sophá_; and more remarkable than all the rest, a
royal chimney cloth, embroidered like the covering of the floor and
walls, but enriched beyond these with various large jewels set in the
corners of the work, such as pearls, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and the
like. The ambassador stood about three yards distance from the _Grand
Signior_, where he delivered himself to _Mauro Cordato_ in Italian, and
he interpreted his credentials immediately to the _Sultan_. But his
Majesty’s letter being handed to _Mauro Cordato_ by his Excellency, it
was by him delivered to the _nishangée_, by him to _Abdollá pashá_, and
by him to the _vizír_, who laid it before the _Grand Signior’s_ feet.
Upon this the _Sultan_ directed himself to the _vizír_ in these words:
“We esteem the King of England as our freind. On our part, all due regard
shall be had to the sacred capitulations made with him; and accordingly
be it your care to see them maintained.” This said, the ambassador was
dismissed the audience room, with the four gentlemen, who only were
permitted to attend the ceremony. Upon which all the English immediately
mounted at the outward gate of the _seraglio_, and there stood in rank
and order to see the _janisaries_ dismissed; which is done in a regular
but hasty manner, and seems to resemble the _decursio_ of the Roman
army. After this the several Ministers of the _diván_, begining with the
least, and ending with the _vizír_, made a pompous procession on horses
of state, adorned with broad guilded bridles, and housing of the French
fashion, wrought with nothing but entire thread of gold. After these
followed his Excellency on an horse and furniture of the same quality,
and so returned with the attendance of several _chiaushes_, and all those
of the English nation, to his own palace.
The habit of the several ministers of the _diván_ is exactly of the
same form with the _caftans_, which they ordinarily present; but the
matter is either silk, or fine grogran, fur’d with sable. Their turbant
is that called the _mugevezée_; but that of the _Grand Signior_ is the
same with the common _agás_, only distinguished by three small, but fine
and curious black feathers, with waves of ash colour, being the outmost
feathers on the wing of the _arguron_, a rare Muscovian bird. The present
made by the ambassador to the _Grand Signior_ consisted of sixty pieces
of different materials, as cloth, silk, sattin, velvet, and the like, all
of them at the charge of the company.
March xviii.
My Lord Paget had this day his audience of leave of the grand _vizír_,
where, besides the ordinary forms and ceremonies of coffee, sherbet,
incense, and _caftans_, the letters of the _vizír_ and _Sultan_ were
brought in by the _reis effendi_; and being by him reverently kissed
and delivered to the _vizír_, were by the _vizír_ kissed in the same
manner, and delivered to the ambassador, by whom they were kissed again,
and committed to Mr. Paget, who bore them respectfully on his two hands
during the whole procession to his Excellency’s palace. The _Sultan’s_
letter was enclosed in a cover of cloth of gold, about a foot broad, and
a yard long, being wrote on fine Persian paper made of silk.
March xix.
His Excellency had audience of leave of the _mufti_, a reverend person
about seventy years of age, somewhat corpulent, of an insolent and
proud aspect, well learned in the Turkish law and polity, and formerly
_hogia_ to the present _Sultan_. He is extremely covetous, and at the
same time prodigiously rich, having hoarded, as it is said, one great
part of the current gold of the empire, and likewise purchased many vast
and extensive possessions about _Erzerum_ and _Trebisond_, which is his
native countrey.
March xx.
His Excellency had audience of leave of the _caimekám_, a courteous,
affable, and obliging person, of no great estate or character, except
that his wife is sister to the _Sultan_. The same day, being Friday, I
saw the _Grand Signior_ riding from his palace to the _mosque_, where he
paid his public devotion. He was preceded by several _chiaushes_, then by
six led horses, and then by several _solácks_, habited in short vests,
and adorned with high caps of gilt silver. On each side of his horse
walked three _churbegées_, bearing on their heads so many beautiful white
ostrich feathers; and behind him followed on stately horses his _selictár
agá_, and _kyslér agá_. He is of a low stature, but broad and corpulent;
has a short neck, a large squat yellow fleshy face, a flat nose, a low
forehead, with cheeks remarkably long and squabby. In his coins he
stiles himself, _The mighty Sultan of the earth and sea, a Sultan son of
a Sultan, Sultan Mustafá Han, son of emperor Mahomet_.
March xxi.
His Excellency had audience of leave of the _nakéib effendi_, who is the
son of the _mufti_, and by patent the designed successor of his father.
He is about thirty years of age, of good parts and behaviour, naturally
arrogant, but made shew on this occasion of an affected courtesy.
March xxiv.
I this day saw the heads of five robbers brought from _Natolia_, and laid
at the gate of the _seraglio_, where by custom they are to remain three
suns. They are only the skins of so many criminals heads stuffed with
straw.
April ii. _A. D._ 1702.
His Excellency, my Lord Paget, now drawing near to his departure was this
day invited to the grand _vizír’s_, where among many singular tokens of
that esteem, which this court truely bears to his person and character,
he received a splendid feast, together with the present of a sable
vest to the value of two purses; as also a noble horse, and sumptuous
furniture, computed at three more.
April iii.
I saw the extravagant devotion of an enthusiastic sect of Turks which
they publicly acted in the manner following. After their ordinary midday
_namáz_ at a little _mosque_ of this city, they repaired to an adjoining
chapel, where were seated many Turks of different quality, who came
thither as spectators only, and to entertain their curiosity. These
several devotées, who were to act their part, were decently ranked in
circular seats, till the prior of their order entered, on which they
all rose to reverence him. He immediately seated himself in the corner
of the room, and with the whole fraternity struck up a religious hymn,
which they carried on in a decent, solemn, and harmonious manner. This
done, they rose upon their feet, to the number of about sixty persons,
and form’d themselves into a close ring, each one holding his hands on
the breast and neck of his foreman. In this posture they advanced round,
repeating with a deep and forcible voice, _Hú hú_; at the same time
stamping violently on the ground, and with great force throwing their
heads towards the center of the ring. Soon after two step’d within the
circle, and turn’d swiftly upon their heel; upon which the whole company
quickened their motion, and grew into a warmth and fury, which is rather
to be admired, than expressed in words. For two hours and an half they
acted a continual fury, sometimes huging one another in a cluster, at
other times kneeling in a confused company, and then runing round in a
circle without cessation[109], throwing about their hands, tossing their
heads, and repeating in hidious cries, _Hú héy_, _Alláh hulláh_, _Allá
hú_, or, _Allá héy_. As they grew hoarser and weaker, both their sound
and action exactly resembled the barking and snarling of dogs[110]; till
at length being covered with sweat, and worked up to the last pitch of
extasy, they concluded with certain versicles, which they repeated from
the mouth of the prior, and so dismissed us[111].
April iv.
My Lord Paget paid his last visit this morning to the _vizír kayá_, who
presented him with a gentile horse and furniture. In the afternoon he
likewise took his last leave of the _reis effendi_, who honoured him with
the like present, and dismissed him with expressions, that witnessed the
sincere and cordial respect he bore him. I shall conclude this narrative
with observing only, that about _Adrianople_ grows an excellent red wine,
which I take to be that mentioned by _Hesiod_ in his _Oper et Dies_, _L._
ii. ℣. 107, where he says: Πετραίη τε σκίη, καὶ Βίβλινος οἶνος.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
An Account of a journey from _Adrianople_, thro _Bulgaria_, _Walachia_,
_Transylvania_, _Hungary_, _Germany_, _Flanders_, _Holland_, and thence
to _England_, in the years MDCCII and MDCCIII.
April viii. _A. D._ 1702.
This day about ten a clock my Lord Paget set out from _Adrianople_, and
began his journey homeward with a splendid equipage. First proceeded two
_chiaushes_, and six _janisaries_; then the three flags of the _arms of
England_, the _union_, and _St. George_, after these the gentlemen of
the horse, with thirteen led horses; next the _agá_, appointed by the
government to conduct his Excellency; who was followed by four coaches,
each drawn by six horses, in the last of which rode his Excellency
himself, and in the first some gentlemen, who accompanied him in this
journey; namely, Count _Gylderstope_ of Sweden, Mr. George Montague,
nephew to my Lord Hallifax, and his tutor Mr. _Gangain_.
For conveniency of carriage, and accommodations of the journey, his
Excellency was furnished with seventy one waggons, which were to attend
him to the extreme bounds of the Turkish empire, at the sole charge of
the Port. Tho this was but the least mark of esteem, which he received
from thence; as it may be reasonably computed, that they presented him
to the value of near twenty purses of money, since his last arrival at
_Adrianople_, in the following particulars. For the fitting up of his
palace in that city, five hundred dollars: for the cushions and other
furniture of two _sophá_ rooms, six hundred: for a stately horse from
the grand _vizír_, five hundred: for the rich furniture of the same, a
thousand: for a sable vest at the same time, a thousand: for an horse
and furniture from the _vizír kayá_, five hundred: for the like from the
_reis effendi_, five hundred: for fifteen mules from the government, at
about fifty dollars each, seven hundred and fifty: for seventy two horses
from the same, at thirty dollars each, two thousand one hundred and
sixty: and lastly for one hundred days _tain_, or _allowance_, from the
Port, at the rate of fifty dollars a day, making five thousand.
This day his Excellency and his retinue travel slowly about the space of
fifteen miles, and about three a clock arrive at a small village called
_Senigée_, where we find the waggons disposed in their several stations,
the apartments of each company alloted, and three tents (tho not pitched
this evening) ready for the service of his Excellency; which I here
mention once for all, as being the constant method of each following
_conáck_.
April ix.
From _Senigée_ we proceed this morning in three hours to _Cokúck
Derocut_, and from thence in the like time to _Boiák Dervent_, where we
find his Excellency’s tents orderly and conveniently placed, and all
things regularly disposed for this night’s lodging. Here we saw an old
Bulgar Christian, named _Staón_, aged one hundred and twenty years[112];
who told us, that he had all his life time been subject to great and
continual sickness, and had three times changed his teeth, once in his
infancy, and twice in his old age. They were now for the most part
intire, his senses of hearing and tasting very lively, and his sight but
little decayed; his beard and his eyebrows lately became perfectly black,
but the hair of his head milk white, and the skin of his breast like the
bark of an old weather beaten beech.
April x.
We travel this day from _Dervent_ to _Jenícui_, having hitherto found
the country to consist of a level campain, and a soil that promised
fertility, were it more happily furnished with inhabitants, water, and
wood.
April xi.
We now proceed from _Jenícui_ to _Pashácui_, so called from the residence
of _Achmét Gerai Sultan_, who is a Tartar prince, happily banished from
his own barbarous country to this fair and delightful village, situated
in a verdant plain, that is better furnished with wood, than the campain
we had lately passed; and watered with a small river, which seems to
rise from the bowels of mount _Haemus_, and bend its course towards the
_Tunsa_.
April xii.
From _Pashácui_ we arrive at _Comorwa_, a rich well cultivated village,
and plentifully supplied both with wood and water. In our way hitherto
from _Adrianople_ we sometimes observed drummers, placed in the nature of
watchmen, to give notice of the security of the road.
April xiii.
From _Comorwa_ we proceed in two hours and a half to _Dobral_, leaving in
view to the right hand a large Turkish town called _Cornibat_, famous for
dying, and preparing the fine purple and yellow leather of this country,
which it vends in great quantities. From _Dobral_ we begin to ascend
the foot of _Haemus_, where the way winds so artificially, as to take
away the difficulty of ascent. Here crossing a rapid river, which forms
its chanel in the body of the mountain, and thro a variety of diverting
shades and clifts, we arrive at length at an open plain on the top of the
hill, and therein at a true country paradise of Bulgar Christians called
_Challikcavák_[113]; where a new church has been lately obtained for the
inhabitants, by the interest of Count _Oetingh_, embassador extraordinary
from his Imperial Majesty. Here the damsels of the parish entertained
us this evening with a dance, which tho performed with no great art or
variety, yet had a certain plainness and simplicity, which was truly
grateful. The women here wear as ornaments, a sort of cravat consisting
of various silver coins, and large bossy silver bracelets; who dismissed
us the next morning with corn strewed in our way.
April xiv.
On the top of the hill we proceed for some time in a level road, thro
a stately grove of oaks; after which the way begins to descend, and
being shortened by the pleasure of the shady scene on each side, leads
unexpectedly into the adjoining plain. In this we travel about an hour,
near the foot of the delightful _Haemus_, and then find our quarters
ready to receive us at a Christian village, called _Trágoe_. And indeed
all the villages, which we had hitherto passed from _Adrianople_, were
intirely inhabited by Christians, who by nation are Bulgarians, but by
their faith of the Greek communion.
April xv.
We still continue our journey at the foot of the mountain, till in
an hour’s time we arrive at _Eskí Stambol_; from whence the way, now
leaving _Haemus_ at our backs, carries us in four hours more to the first
Turkish village, which had occurred in our progress, called _Boklar_.
Mount _Haemus_ being the limit, that divides _Thracia_ from _Bulgaria_,
or _Moesia Inferior_ of the antients, we made this day’s journey in
the latter; which hereabouts appears as pleasant, as a just mixture of
hills and vales, woods and lawns, arable and pasture ground can make
it. The above mentioned _Eskí Stambol_ is a name given by the Turks
to the remains of an ancient city (possibly the _Oescus Triballorum_)
which at the foot of _Haemus_ shews the intire tract of two walls; the
inward square, and of about a mile in circumference; the outward almost
circular, and containing the compass of five miles. But besides these it
has no reliques of carved work, or any inscription, that may give light
to the true name or history of the place. In one corner only of the
inward wall are several crosses, and an image of the Παναγία, or _Virgin
Mother_, barbarously cut, with two or three rude lines of modern Greek
characters, in which nothing but the word Βασηλίσαν, or _Queen_, was
now legible, and that corruptly written, as it is here copied. By the
abovementioned walls runs a small river from the _Haemus_, now called by
the Italians _Monte Argentato_, and by the Turks _Batkán_.
April xvi.
Over a country, which is truly rich, as well as pleasant, and curiously
varied by easy ascents and descents, we proceed in five hours from
_Trágoe_ to _Arnoútcui_; a village whose inhabitants are of the Greek
communion, tho its name implies them to be of Albanian original.
April xvii.
Thro a pleasant tract of country, containing a grateful variety of arable
ground, pasture, and woods, we arrive in seven hours at _Uzungée Alon_.
By the way we passed several villages, as likewise a large market town,
wherein are seven _mosques_, and a palace of the _pashá_ of _Nicopoli_,
which goes by the name of _Rásgrad_. The _cadí_ of this place, with an
_alaí chiaush_, and other officers, came an hour out of town to meet his
Excellency.
April xviii.
Thro a like country, only a little more woody, we continue our journey
to _Uppéer_. And from thence the day following, where we first begin to
see the _Danube_, we proceed thro a rich, pleasant, and well cultivated
country, till about twelve a clock we arrive at _Tutracán_, on the banks
of the river.
April xx.
We stay at this place, employed in the care of transporting his
Excellency’s equipage on the other side of the water; and in the mean
time cannot but reflect with pleasure on the agreable tract of ground,
which for five days we had passed thro in _Moesia Inferior_. A country,
which (however decried by Ovid, and disparaged by our modern geographers)
for the richness of its soil, variety of rising and falling ground,
elegancy of prospect, and a competent provision of wood and water, is
perhaps not to be paralleled by any other spot in the universe. But tho
the whole tract of this country, which descends gradually from the foot
of the _Haemus_ to the banks of the _Danube_, is rich both in arable and
pasture ground; yet the inhabitants seem excessive poor, and are defended
from the injuries of the weather by houses very meanly built.
April xxi.
His Excellency and his retinue this day pass the _Danube_, between
_Tutracán_ and the mouth of the _Argisch_, about eight in the morning,
at a passage about a mile broad. Upon landing, his Excellency was
complimented from the Prince of _Valachia_ by his cousin german Count
_Tomáso Cantacuzéno_, and was received by a guard of fifty men, and two
coaches of six. In the finer of these his Excellency rode about a mile
into _Valachia_, along the banks of the _Argisch_, and then alighting was
entertained under three rich tents, sent likewise by the Prince for his
reception.
April xxii.
His Excellency continued his journey about six hours thro the
_Valachian_, a country which on this side is exactly level, and
luxuriantly rich, but desolate for want of culture and inhabitants. In
the road we meet with wooden crosses, erected in many places to excite
the devotion of Christian travelers; as also a convent of monks about two
hours short of our _conáck_, near which the _Argisch_ receives the chanel
of the _Dembowitza_. At length we arrive at a miserable collection of
cottages, scarce deserving the name of a village, but blessed with the
convenience of a delicious and healthy water; where we find the tents
both of the Prince and his Excellency ready pitched for his entertainment
this evening. We were conducted hither by Count _Tomáso_, who undertook
the care of the public _tain_ to be furnished for his Excellency.
April xxiii.
We proceed four hours thro a pleasant wood, enriched with _lilia
convallium_, and other flowers; and at length pitch our tents at
_Popest_, which in the _Valachian_ language signifies the same as
_Priest-town_. Here about five in the evening his Excellency received an
express by Baron _Minsheim_ from Count _Rabutin_, with the most unhappy
news of the death of his Britannic Majesty, on the eighth past.
April xxiv.
About seven this morning his Excellency set forward, and prepared for his
entrance into _Bucurest_, which is distant about an hour and half from
_Popest_. Not far from his _conáck_ he was met by a rich coach from the
Prince of _Valachia_, complimented by his two eldest sons, and attended
with a guard of about five hundred men. His Excellency having mounted
the coach, preceded by the guard, made his entry about nine a clock;
when he was conducted to a spare palace of the Prince, near that of his
own residence, and entreated to use it as his own home. It is a fair and
gentile house, built of stone, and covered agreably to the custom of this
place with wooden tiles; and being furnished with apartments after the
Christian fashion, may be esteemed magnificent, when compared with the
barbarous edifices of the neighbouring Turks. From the front it looks
into a large garden, and from the right wing into another of somewhat a
lesser size; both which are agreable, and afford a convenience of shade
and verdure.
This afternoon the Prince came on horseback thro the lesser garden to
visit his Excellency, who met him at the garden door, and could scarce
prevail with him to precede in going up stairs. He returned in an hour,
and gave opportunity to his uncle, _Constantinus Cantacuzenus_, who has
the office of grand _stolnicho_, or _steward_, in this court, to pay my
Lord the same compliment. The name of the Prince is _Joannes Constantinus
Bassarabas_, who has enjoyed the principality about thirteen years,
having succeeded _Serbanus Cantacuzenus_, brother of the above mentioned
_Constantinus Stolnichus_. He is a promoter of good order and discipline
in the province, a reviver of architecture, and incourager of learning
both at _Bucurest_ and other places of the principality; into which he
has introduced two or three printing presses, and from thence published
several books useful for the instruction and edification of the Greek
church. He is about forty seven years of age, and has ten children,
four of them sons; the second of whom, being about fourteen years of
age, is well instructed in the Latin and Greek languages. He is of an
affable, mild, and courteous temper; generous, careful of the education
of his family, and a great encourager of religion; and therefore liberal
in his disbursements for printing and giving away books, erecting of
monasteries, adorning of churches, and other acts of piety. His uncle,
_Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus_, is an elderly person, who has
traveled over most parts of Europe; is skilled in the controversies of
their own church, as well as in the several liberal sciences; is also
well versed in politics, and by his counsels chiefly sustains the present
Prince, with the honour and interest of the principality.
April xxv.
By nine this morning his Excellency returned the visit to the Prince,
who received him at the head of the stairs, and entertained him at
first with a conference of about an hour and half long. After this his
Excellency was conducted into the dining room, where, at a long table
sumptuously spread, the Prince and his Excellency (the former on the
right hand) sat down to diner. On the side of his Excellency sat the
two eldest sons of the Prince, his son in law, with the other nobles
and officers of the court. On the side of the Prince sat in order the
retinue of the ambassador, with our conductor Count _Tomaso_ and others.
The feast was protracted at least seven hours, during which passed a
great variety of courses, consisting of excellent and costly dishes, with
plenty of exquisite wine, and many ceremonious healths; the principal
of which were to the _Grand Signior_, the _Emperor of Germany_, and
the _Queen of England_, all seconded with salvoes from the soldiery in
the adjoining court. Here we were made witnesses to a singular air of
courtesy, hospitality, and gentile behavior in the Valachian nobility;
but more particularly in the Prince himself, who drank to the health
and prosperity of each stranger at the table. At the conclusion of the
entertainment he veiled his Excellency with a rich silk robe of the
Valachian fashion, lined with an excellent sable fur, upon which his
Excellency and his retinue return to their own lodgings. The palace of
the Prince, with the apartments, and gardens adjoining, are truly noble
and magnificent; and tho not to be compared with those of some other
Christian princes, yet much preferable to those, in which the ignorant
Turks so ambitiously please themselves.
April xxvi.
This morning we had divine service and a sermon in his Excellency’s
family, and in the afternoon he paid a short visit to the Patriarch
of _Jerusalem_, but afterwards a much longer to the abovementioned
_Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus_. The Patriarch lodges in a large
_kane_, built by the present Prince; where are large apartments and
magazines for merchants, the rent of which may yeild about twenty purses
_per annum_, and is by the Prince consigned into that Patriarch’s hands
for the use of the _Holy sepulcher_.
April xxvii.
I visited the press of this place, where I found them printing some
pieces of devotion in Arabic, under the care of the Patriarch of
_Antioch_ to be distributed by him about his diocess. Beside this,
they were undertaking to print a large _folio_ of the famous _Maximus
Hieromonachus_, called Κυριακοδρόμιον, or _The course of the several
Sundays throughout the year_. On this occasion I there bought several
books, among which one containing all the _Liturgies_, _Hymns_,
_Rituals_, _Lessons_, and other devotional tracts, used on all occasions
in the Greek church through the course of the whole year.
This morning the Prince gave his Excellency another visit, which he
returned in the afternoon, and at the same time took leave, with a deep
sense of the generous, honourable, and affectionate treatment he had
received in this court. After his return from the Prince, he received
a visit of leave from _Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus_, who then
presented him with a gentile horse of the Valachian breed, and at the
same time two of the same breed and quality were sent him from the
Prince, upon which his Excellency answered the present of _Constantinus_
with a diamond ring, valued at three hundred pounds.
The same day I was favoured with a present of several Greek books, lately
printed in this province, from Κῦρ Γεώργιος Καστριώτης; as likewise of
some others from his Excellency _Constantinus Cantacuzenus_. Towards the
evening our curiosity led us half an hour out of town to visit a convent,
called in the Valachian tongue the _Catrochán_, and founded by the late
Prince _Serbanus Cantacuzenus_. It is accounted the most beautiful of
several in this province, founded by the present and preceding princes;
and therefore a short account of this may serve for a specimen of the
rest. It is situated on the _Dembowitza_, which washes it on two sides;
while the other two are adorned with a grove of lovely, close, and shady
oaks. The neighbouring pastures afford an entertaining prospect, whereas
the parts nearer to the convent are disposed into orderly vineyards, and
gardens. The fabric it self is an oblong quadrangle, built of regular
and massy stone, divided into cells for about forty monks, with lodgings
for the abbot, a common refectory, kitchin, and other public apartments.
But in the middle of the area is erected the chapel, of the exact figure
of the antient Greek churches, that is, distinguished into the νάρθηξ
or _porch_, πρόναος or _outward chapel_, νάος or _body of the church_,
βῆμα or _chancel_, and θυσιαστήριον or _altar_; the several parts being
regular and stately, supported with pillars, and covered with high
cupolas. The ornaments of painting, gilding, and embroidery are exceeding
rich; and the pictures so numerously disposed, as to possess every part
of the church in the inside, as well as the outside of the front. Here
is shewn the monument of _Serbán_ the founder, with his princess, his
brother, and other relations; whose pictures, among others, possess a
great part of the western wall. Here also are kept the two _horse tails_,
allowed by the Turks to be carried before this prince, together with the
_bandiéra_ of the province, and another called the _paschal colours_, in
which the whole _Trinity_ is profanely represented, and _God the Father_
expressed by the image of a reverend old man, looking over the body of
our _Savior_, as it hangs upon the cross.
_Bucurest_ is a large stragling town of a very peculiar make, the outward
parts very mean, consisting of houses, the greater part of which is
under ground like our cellars, and covered over at the top with straw
or bark of trees. The better sort of houses are about the palace of the
Prince, which are covered with handsome wooden tiles, the walls built
of substantial stone, and the yards and gardens always very wide[114],
enclosed with intire trunks of oaks set as near as possible to each
other. The streets appear like a continued bridge, being floored from
side to side with massy planks of ten yards long, and as many inches
thick; which work, however expensive it may seem, is continued thro all
the buildings of the place for the extent of some miles together. The
sight of the whole is agreable at a distance, by reason of the several
houses of the nobility, the palace of the Prince, and the number of
churches and convents. These last are all of one form, regularly built,
and rising with cupolas, wherein bells are often hung; which I mention,
as being the first I had heard since my arrival in Turkey.
The whole province is luxuriantly rich, abounding with woods and
pastures, but thinly inhabited, and that in caves and huts rather than
houses. Its chief income proceeds from wax, honey, hides, horses, the
mines of salt, and custom on some places of the _Danube_. By these it
is able to maintain its prince and barons splendidly, besides paying a
yearly tribute to the Turk, that is settled at three hundred and twenty
purses, which are equal to thirty two thousand pounds sterling, besides
three times that sum extorted beyond the compact. The lands of the
province are intirely in the hands of the Prince and barons; the rest,
who are rustics, being all either slaves or servants, whose persons or
service are at the disposal of the several nobles, on whom they depend.
April xxviii.
We proceed this morning from _Bucurest_, and after five hours travel take
up our lodging at a small village, called _Chrytshulest_. In the way we
stop a little towards the right hand to visit a gentile palace, which is
building by the Prince for his second son, situated on a pleasant lake.
And the day following, in seven hours from _Chrytshulest_, we pitch our
tents, and lodge near a small river, called _Ilsós_.
April xxx.
This day about twelve a clock we arrive at _Tergovist_, where his
Excellency and his retinue are lodged in the palace of the Prince. The
form and state hereof much resembles that of _Bucurest_; only it has the
advantage of a much finer garden, and therein of a beautiful stone summer
house; both which are regular, and may compare with those of the politer
Christendom. The town is pleasantly situated on the _Ialomitza_, beyond
which it enjoys the prospect of a beautiful tract of hills, which make
the boundary betwixt this province and that of _Transylvania_; but on the
other hand, the eye loses itself in an even boundless plain, encircled at
a large distance with stately woods. The city gives title to the chief
Metropolite of Valachia, and in like manner, till within these thirty
years, was the residence of their princes; when a rebellion against
the Turks being here formed by Prince _Ghika_, and the neighbourhood
of Transylvania contributing to render the place more suspected, his
successors were constrained to demolish it, and retire to _Bucurest_.
But within five years the present Prince has obtained fresh leave to
reestablish it, on condition he erects no fortifications in the place;
and accordingly it begins apace to be repeopled, while the Prince refits
his palace, embellishes his gardens, and invites the nobility to erect
their respective houses, that so they may attend him in those frequent
residences, which for the future he intends to make here.
May i.
We took the opportunity of the stay, we this day made at _Tergovist_, to
go after diner to a convent situated on the adjoining hills; which we
found well built of fair freestone, adorned with cupolas well carved in
lattice work of the same matter; but above all commanding a delightful
prospect over the subject plain, and city of _Tergovist_, which on
account of the palaces, the seats of the nobility, and the many fair
convents and churches there extant, affords an entertaining landskip.
May ii.
This day we travel four hours from _Tergovist_, and at length pitch our
tents in a pleasant place, surrounded with pendent woods, by the name
of _Isvóra_, not far from the stream of the _Dembowitza_, which yet
continued to flow on our left hand.
May iii.
This morning we proceed, and within half an hour arrive at the foot of
the mountains, where the _Dembowitza_ descends into the plain thro an
easy clift, which it perhaps has partly formed by the continual and rapid
course of its stream. Thro this plain we travel seven hours, in which
time we are obliged to cross the winding chanel of the river twenty times
or upwards; and being constantly diverted by the murmur of the falling
waters; by the shade of the shelving hills that form the vale, and by the
evenness of the ascent which imperceptibly leads us up the mountains, we
at length pitch in a fair meadow inclosed like a theatre with surrounding
trees and hills, where is a small village by the name of _Cotonést_.
May iv.
We continue our journey four hours thro the same sort of way, that is,
along a narrow shady vale, which conveys the winding waters of the
_Dembowitza_; which having crossed several times, we at length arrive
at the village of _Dragoslave_, and in half an hour farther at that
of _Rukar_, in the Greek map, Ῥούναλο, where we pitch and repose this
evening. This village is considerably large, consisting of houses all of
the Valachian fashion, that is, built round with trees laid even upon one
another, covered with an high and deep roof consisting of wooden tiles,
and within having no funnel or chimney to convey the smoke, but open only
in several parts of the roof to supply that defect.
May v.
Being now imperceptibly advanced almost as high as the snowy tops of the
mountain, which we see at a near distance impending over the village,
where we lodge, we are informed, that the remaining ascent for the
space of half an hour is very difficult, and that afterwards we are to
encounter a much more troublesome descent. His Excellency therefore
thought fit to repose here this day, and to take that opportunity of
sending before him his waggons, coaches, and the greatest part of his
baggage; that on the morrow, when he himself was to set forward, he
might pass with the greater ease. In the mean time, considering that
we then hoped to pass the limits, that separate the two provinces of
_Transylvania_ and _Valachia_, it will be here proper to set down such
general remarks, as occurred in traveling thro the latter.
This province was under the Romans from _Trajan_ to _Gallienus_, or
rather to _Aurelian_; who, tho he was born here, yet translated the
remainder of the Romans hence into _Moesia_ and _Pannonia_. When it
became tributary to the Turks by force of arms, it was glad to accept the
imposition of three hundred and twenty purses yearly; whilst _Moldavia_,
which voluntarily submitted to that yoke, was assessed at no more than
sixty. Ever since, the nomination of their prince has entirely resided in
the Turk, who nevertheless allows him all rights of sovereignty in the
principality, except that of declaring war, and coining his own money.
That which ordinarily passes in this countrey, is therefore either the
Dutch, or Venetian _lion dollars_; with the _quarts_ of Poland; and a
small Saxon coin, here called _bains_, of which one hundred thirty two
make a _lion dollar_. Justice is here performed according to the ancient
laws of the province, which are agreable to the Roman law. The power
and act of pronouncing sentence is wholly in the prince, after which,
as commonly in Turkey, the execution immediately ensues. For the better
adjustment of tribute, and other common duties, the whole province
is divided into seventeen counties, of which each is to furnish its
respective proportion. In time of war it ordinarily maintains twenty
thousand men, of which about the fourth part continue in pay in the time
of peace.
The natives ordinarily call themselves _Romans_, and their province
_Tzerra Romanesca_[115], being persuaded that they are descended of that
original. And in favour of this opinion they may allege their language,
which is a broken mixture of Latin and Italian, into which have been
accidentally adopted some few Turkish and Sclavonic words. They write
intirely the Cyrillian Sclavonic character, which seems to be a detortion
from the Greek. And these properties of their language, as well as the
character[116], they have in common with _Moldavia_; which two provinces,
together with _Transylvania_, constituted the ancient _Dacia_, the
two former _Ripensis_, and the last _Mediterranea_. The wines of this
province, especially about _Tergovist_, are exquisite fine. The Valachian
habit much resembles that of the Turks. Their religion is intirely that
of the Greek church, and the government of it subject to the Patriarch
of Constantinople. Their liturgic rites are performed either in the
Greek or Sclavonian tongue; tho I was assured, that in some churches the
Valachian was admitted, at least they have frequently the _Gospels_ and
other offices in that language, but the liturgy itself more rarely. The
churches of each parish, as well as chapels of the many monasteries,
which are seen here, are usually very fair, well built, richly adorned,
profanely painted, and for the most part furnished with bells; tho in
some places I have observed the wooden plank, which is common to the
Greeks in Turkey, where bells are not permitted. The νάρθηξ, or _porch_,
is generally daubed with superstitious representations of the punishments
of hell; and often the inward walls are profaned with some inconsistent
corporeal image of _God the Father_, a thing here permitted against the
professed principles and declarations of the Greek church.
May vi.
We proceed this day over the mountain, on a steep craggy rocky way,
lined on each side with an dismal shade, and sometimes looking down
into a frightful precipice. By half an hour after ten we arrive at the
limits of the two provinces, which are distinguished by a wooden cross
on the edge of the mountain, from whence the prospect begins to open
into _Transylvania_. Here my Lord was saluted from the government of
_Transylvania_ by Count _Michael Mikes_, as well as from the magistrates
of _Cronstadt_ by their deputy, and at the same time attended by a troop
of horse, with the colours of the Emperor, as his ordinary guard; upon
which the troop of _Cosacks_, which had hitherto guarded his Excellency
from _Tergovist_, returned home. In one hour and an half from hence we
descend the mountain, and at a narrow passage, where the river _Bozza_
finds its passage out of the snowy hills into the adjoining plain, we
arrive at the castle of _Bran_, a small fortress which defends this pass;
where his Excellency was saluted, as he passed, with three different
salvos of about twenty one guns. Within canon shot of this fort we find
a fair set of huts, ready pitched for the reception of his Excellency,
with a buttery, kitchen, and other accommodations, provided for his use
by the abovesaid Count _Mikes_; who now undertook the care of the public
allowance and conduct of his Excellency from this place, as far as
_Hermanstadt_.
May vii.
By six this morning we set forward from the castle of _Bran_, directing
our course for _Cronstadt_, being now about two Hungarian miles, or
twelve Italian, distant from it. In half an hour his Excellency was met
by major general _Glychensberg_, governor of the forces at _Cronstadt_
and the parts adjoining; together with lieutenant colonel _Graven_ of
the regiment of general _Rabutin_. The same civility he received from
the judge and other magistrates of the city, with whom, and the numerous
retinue which came along with them, we now proceed, making a train of
a mile long. In the mean time our road lay thro that spot of ground,
on which general _Heusler_ was defeated, and made prisoner by Count
_Tekely_ in the year sixteen hundred and ninety; as also thro the town
of _Rosnaw_, lying in the middle betwixt _Bran_ and _Cronstadt_, where
there is a considerable castle, which likewise saluted his Excellency,
as he passed, with three repeated salvos. About eleven a clock we enter
the city, the castle repeating continual salvos, which we find all in
arms, and the streets lined on both sides with musqueteers, as also
the whole soldiery drawn up in order in the market place. In this is
the house of general _Glychensberg_, where his Excellency was received
with all marks of respect and honour, and in an hour’s time invited to
a noble entertainment. After diner, by order of Count _Mikes_, we were
attended to our several stations, where a Transylvanian gentleman was
appointed to act as commissary, or _proveditóre_, in each respective
quarter. Particularly Mr. Paget and myself were favoured with the company
and attendance of one _Lodislaus Doeza_, a civil, intelligent, and well
behaved gentleman of the Helvetian confession. And this afternoon Mr.
Paget and I walked up the castle hill, from whence we had a prospect
of the city, which is almost triangular, enclosed with a stone wall,
situated in a narrow vale, under an high snowy clift of mountains, but
on one side looking towards a level and fruitful plain. It is surrounded
with three distinct suburbs, beautifully intermixed with gardens; and in
one part of these suburbs, which runs more within the hills, stands an
handsome Valachian church. A dreadful fire about fourteen years since
laid the whole town in ashes, and at the same time utterly consumed
the library of the school, which is here instituted for teaching of
philosophy and theology. The same calamity almost ruined the cathedral
church, of which now nothing but the outward case remains to testify its
former grandeur; the roof, which was of arched stone, being now only
covered with boards.
The general religion of this place is Lutheran; and the church above
mentioned is governed by a dean and thirteen capitularies, who enjoy
considerable rents from the thirteen parishes of the district of
_Cronstadt_, which are supplied by them. The ecclesiastical government
of the whole district is partly in this chapter, and partly in the
superintendent of _Cronstadt_; which office is sometimes distinct,
but for the most part held together with the deanry; and from this
superintendent appeals lie to the bishop of the whole province of
Transylvania.
The civil government of the town is in a judge elected every two years,
a senate, and a commonalty of an hundred men. The sentence of the judge
is final, and is governed by laws of the place model’d according to the
civil law. The city since the fire is fairly rebuilt, with a certain
regularity of walls and windows to the street, and the roofs are all
covered, as in _Valachia_, with wooden tiles. The common language is
Saxon; this being one of the cities, which belong to the great colony of
that nation, which makes one third of _Transylvania_.
May ix.
This morning we depart from _Cronstadt_ at six a clock by the way of
_Feketeholm_, which has a church fortified like a garrison. From thence
we proceed thro woods and hills to _Veledin_; where in a cold watery plot
of grass, surrounded with woods, we lodge this night in tents. Here I
took leave of Count _Tomáso_, who then presented me with two other books
from _Constantinus Stolnichus_.
May x.
General _Glychensberg_, who waited on his Excellency to this place from
_Cronstadt_, now returned thither. We proceed thro a troublesome way and
dark wood to _Sharkan_, which at length we find deliciously situated upon
a river, which a little way from hence enters the _Aluta_, now called
_Alt_. Here I lodged at the house of the minister, who was a Lutheran,
by name _George Sularius_; and, it being Sunday, I attended him to their
evening service.
May xi.
We set forward thro a fair, rich, and well cultivated country to
_Fogeras_, a large but scattered town, and there take up our station
by eleven a clock. His Excellency was here lodged in an house, which
belonged to Count _Tekely_, who was prime minister to the late prince
_Abaffi_, and slain in the defeat of General _Heusler_ near _Cronstadt_.
I had here some conversation with the chief pastor of the place, _Michael
Rozgoni_, a learned Calvinist, who had studied in Holland. At _Fogeras_
is a castle surrounded with a wide mote, and so strong, or at least so
fortunate, that it is said never to have been taken by force of arms.
May xii.
From hence we proceed in six hours to _Úcha_, a village inhabited
intirely by Valachs. And setting out early from thence the next morning,
by twelve a clock we reach _Porumback_, a most delightful village,
situated very near the banks of the _Aluta_; which river attended us for
these three last days journey, not far from our right hand, under the
adjoining hills. His Excellency was here met and complimented by general
_Rabutin_ from _Hermanstadt_, who came accompanied with Count _Seau_, the
Emperor’s chief commissary in Transylvania, and two other officers of
the imperial army. The General returned before diner, and left my Lord
well accommodated in a pleasant country house of Prince _Abaffi_; whose
barnes, and magazines of grain, with the adjoining fish ponds, and rich
meadows, that surround the farm, we viewed this afternoon with great
pleasure.
May xiv.
We leave _Porumback_, and are presently after upon the banks of the
_Aluta_, over which river his Excellency’s whole baggage, with the
horses, coaches, waggons, and other necessaries, were transported upon
flat bottomed boats. We proceed one Hungarian mile from our _conáck_,
and then his Excellency is again met by general _Rabutin_, and several
officers of the army, together with a train of five hundred persons,
consisting of two troops of horse with the magistrates and chief citizens
of _Hermanstadt_. After mutual compliments, my Lord takes his place in
the General’s coach, and so they both ride together another Hungarian
mile to _Hermanstadt_, attended with a numerous retinue of guards and
citizens into the town, where the canons continually kept firing, and
the inhabitants received them in arms. There his Excellency being first
lodged in a large and convenient house in the marketplace, very near the
palace of the General, about one a clock was conduced thither to diner,
where a sumptuous feast was prepared at two tables. At the first sat his
Excellency with his retinue, general _Rabutin_, his Lady, the Princess
of _Holstein_, with the Countesses _Seau_, _Bethlen_, _Mikes_, and some
others; as also the Counts _Seau_, _Bethlen_, _Mikes_, _Stanville_ of
Lorrain, _Costa_ of Piedmont, _Monticelli_, and Commissary _Belli_. After
diner his Excellency returned to his lodging, where he was now attended
by Count _Bethlen_, instead of Count _Mikes_, who was appointed to
conduct him from _Hermanstadt_ as far as _Clausenburg_. In the evening
the General complimented his Excellency with the command of the garrison,
during his stay in this place; and thereupon pressed him four different
times to give the watch word, which nevertheless he peremptorily declined.
May xv.
His Excellency staid this and the following day at _Hermanstadt_,
together with his retinue; where he continued to be treated in the same
gentile manner by the General.
May xvii.
This being Sunday, we had divine service and a sermon at his Excellency’s
lodgings, and then dined again with the General. And in the evening I was
favoured by my landlord, Mr. _George Reisner_, senator of the city (an
ingenious and learned person, who had studied ten years in Holland) with
his coach and company to visit his garden, beyond the walls and mote of
the city; near to which adjoins a famous large and intire crucifix cut
in stone, much adored by the papists of this country. The same gentleman
gave me notice of three Roman inscriptions which, as I was informed, had
been brought from _Ulpia Trajana_. The first was upon a stone coffin in
the market place, of which the following is a copy.
T. VAREN. T. F. PAP. SABINIANO EQ. R.
FLAM. LAVRENTINO ITEM FLAM.
COL. SARMIZ. DEC. COL. SAR. ET APVL.
E. M. V. OMNIB. EQVESTRIB. MILIT. PERFUNC.
CORNEL. LVCILLA CONIVX PILA EXTRVC
TA. SARCOFAGVM IN QVO VARENIA
PROBINAQVE SABINIANI SOROR CONDITA
ERAT ETIAM EIVS CORPORE CONLOCA
TO SVPERPOSVIT[117].
The others were in the house of General _Rabutin_, upon the base of two
pillars, as I have here given them.
I. O. M.
M. ROMAN
VS INCOL
PVS
EX VOTO.
I. O. M.
C. SEMPRONIVS
VRBANVS
PROC. Φ. AVG[118].
The same gentleman shewed me also the cathedral church of this place,
entertained me with the music of the organ, and presented me with a book
called _Breviculus de nationibus Transylvanicis_. Another on the same
subject was given me the day before by the _rector scholae Cibiniensis_,
which place with the adjoining library I then visited. This night I
likewise returned a visit to the reverend _Isaacus Zabanius, primarius
pastor Cibiniensis, et ecclesiae cathedralis decanus_, by whom and his
wife I was kindly entertained above three hours. He then gave me an
Answer, which he had formerly compiled, to _Campiani Rationes decem_.
May xviii.
By six this morning his Excellency and retinue leaving _Hermanstadt_
were attended by the General, and gentlemen above mentioned, beyond the
adjoining river, after which they all took a cordial leave; especially
lieutenant colonel _Graven_, to whom his Excellency presented a diamond
ring. We now proceed in our way, at which time I received an obliging
letter from Mr. Dunster, with an account of my successor’s arrival at
_Smyrna_ upon the seventeenth of _April_.