Adjoining to the _Star_ inn, where his Excellency lodged, is the new

convent of Irish _Cordeliers_; and in the same neighbourhood are two

seminaries, one called that of the _Archbishop_, and the other that of

_St. Norbert_, patron of this kingdom; both which profess academical

learning, but in societies distinct from the university of the place.

Hence the way leads us to the townhouse, a large and stately building,

which at one corner has a piece of clock work, giving the motions of the

seven planets. On one side of this opens a fair piazza, with two curious

pieces of workmanship. The first of these is a statue of the _B. Virgin_

trampling on the _Dragon_, erected on a stone pillar, on the pedestal

of which are four _Angels_ defeating the like venomous monsters. This

implies a triumphant declaration of her immaculate conception, and

imitates that work before observed at _Vienna_. The second curiosity is a

fountain of carved marble, with a basin of twelve sides, on which are cut

very beautifully the twelve signs of the _Zodiac_.

From hence we pass to a college of Jesuits, a noble and spatious

building. The church is a fine fabric, and prodigiously rich; the

cloister large, and adorned with agreable pictures; among the rest are

large tables divided into little squares, containing the short history

and pourtraiture of the eminent persons of their order for preaching,

missions, and conversions, among whom are a great number of English.

The same way leads us to the bridge above mentioned, and thence to

another college of the Jesuits; but the third, and most splendid of this

order, is in that part of _Prague_ called the new city, which we had not

an opportunity of seeing.

We now turn to the right hand, and in an eminent part of the city are

brought to the Emperor’s palace, old and irregular in outward appearance,

but within its precincts is the old cathedral church, an handsome Gothic

building of the year 923, as appears by an inscription on the chief

altar. The stateliness of the old architecture, with the richness as well

as beauty of the modern ornaments, make it a venerable pile. They have

here a picture of the _Virgin_, which is pretended to be of _St. Luke’s_

hand. At the gate entering into this palace there is another in sight,

which is the residence of the Archbishop.

From the cathedral we are carried to the _Capuchin_ cloister, which

consists of a small but most beautiful quadrangle. Round the four

sides, under a fair portico, are painted thirty different copies of

so many of the most eminent and miraculous images of the _Virgin_,

each in the proper garb, posture, and colours of the originals; and

the remaining space of the wall beneath is filled with votive tables,

in acknowledgement of favours received from each picture. I thought

this collection observable, in that it is an apparent instance of the

different representations of the _B. Virgin_, who is not invoked under

the same character in all places, and on all occasions; but according

to the fancy of the first painters, and the superstition of the late

devotees, is split into so many distinct objects of worship; as the Lady

_de Victoria_, _de Litera_, _de Consilio_, _Crysostomiana_, _Cyrilliana_,

_Bernardina_, _Lauretana_, _Eremitana_, _Cellensis_, _Passaviensis_,

_Wranoviensis_, _Hallensis_. As this shews how polytheism crept in among

the heathen, who first of all worshiped God under so many distinct

attributes, and afterwards as so many distinct beings; so it argues

greater superstition in the church of Rome: for instead of the several

characters of _Venus_, as _Cypria_, _Cytherea_, _Victrix_, and others; or

of _Diana_, as _Aricinia_, _Leucophryne_, _Taurica_[139]; we have many

more of _Sta. Maria_. In the middle of this quadrangle is an handsome

imitation of the chapel of _Loretto_ with the _Virgin_ and our _Savior_

above the altar in the complection of _Moors_; and on the outside walls

are various religious stories elegantly represented.

From hence we proceed to the celebrated cloister of Premonstratensians,

called the _Shawhoff_ in which above an hundred persons are maintained

in a princely manner. I was here shewn a rich chapel, wherein before the

incursion of the Swedes were many large and curious statues of solid

brass, particularly those of the twelve _Apostles_; which by Count

_Koningsmarck_ were converted into canon, when he took this part of the

city, tho he was soon again repulsed. In the middle of the church, in

a stately open monument, is preserved the body of _St. Norbert_, the

founder of this order. Over the tomb is suspended a gilt crown of a

prodigious size, the diameter of the rimb being at least three ells.

After the chapel I saw their library, which is neat and well filled,

but with books in the taste of the last age. They have here a monkish

contrivance of a wheeling desk with six sides, on each of which may lie

several books, so as to be turned round in their order, without falling

off in the motion. From the library we passed to their private chapel,

wherein is a crucifix, which the monk, who shewed it us, attested to have

seen illuminated in the night, while no candle was in the room. In an

adjoining gallery is a large statue of our _Savior_, which they affirm to

have once sweat blood about the neck, and shew the marks thereof still

remaining. From hence we are carried to their winter refectory, a large

and regular stove room, well contrived for warmth and beauty at the same

time. But their summer refectory is a pattern of beauty, proportion,

and magnificence, being paved with black and white marble, with three

large windows on one side, and round the walls about twelve large

pictures of eminent persons of their order; and the whole is exceedingly

well contrived, both for the entertainment of the mind, and repose of

the body. They shewed us likewise another large room, with a numerous

collection of their most meritorious members in little squares; and last

of all the chambers of the monks, with two adjoining gardens, one for the

fathers, the other for the brethren of the society, which completed the

pleasure of the sight.

Next to this convent we went to see a Jewish synagogue, of which there

are eight in this place, the number of that nation amounting to above ten

thousand, who for distinction sake are all obliged to wear a blue ruff.

On the stately bridge over the _Muldaw_ are to be observed several

curious statues of the _Virgin_; of our _Savior_; and of the new _Saint_

lately set up in all parts of this kingdom, as well as on all the bridges

of _Vienna_, being a curious piece of cast brass with this inscription:

DIVO IOANNI NEPOMENENO ANNO MCCCLXXXIII

AB HOC PONTE DEIECTO EREXIT MATTHIAS L. B.

DE WVNESWITZ ANNO MDCLXXXIII.

He was here drowned for not revealing to the King of Bohemia a confession

of his Queen.

The famous university of this place, which in the time of _John Huss_

consisted of forty thousand students, is not even now so far diminished,

but that when they have occasion to assault the Jews, or other citizens,

they can muster about twelve thousand. They consist of young persons,

not collected into regular societies, as with us, but lodging in private

houses, from whence they repair to the public schools at the appointed

hours of lecture. There are three of these schools, one in each part of

the city, where all academical learning is professed by the ablest of the

Jesuits; for these have the sole direction of the university, and are

the only rich prevailing persons in Bohemia, particularly in the capital

city, where they amount to the number of a thousand.

November xxiv.

This day we leave _Prague_, and proceed four miles, thro an open ploughed

country, to _Sloney_. In the way we receive the confirmation of the

good news, which we first heard at _Iglaw_; that seventeen Spanish

galleons in the port of _Vigo_ were fallen under the power of our grand

fleet, eleven being taken, and six sunk; and that the whole squadron of

_Chateaurenault_, being twenty nine men of war, were either sunk or taken.

November xxv.

His Excellency continues yet at _Sloney_, a small but walled town, with

a large market place, as usual in these parts. It was formerly a seat

of protestants, and therefore barbarously destroyed by _Ferdinand_ the

third. The day following we intend for _Launa_, three miles from hence;

but the place being taken up for the quarters of five thousand Saxon

soldiers, now moving against Bavaria, we lodge at _Clamston_, half an

hour short of it; where we continue two days, by reason of a great

quantity of snow, which then fell.

November xxix.

Leaving _Clamston_, at the distance of one quarter of a German mile we

pass under the walls of _Launa_, and there cross the _Egra_ by a long

wooden bridge, covered with a penthouse, as is usual in this country.

From thence we come to _Bitin_, the estate of Prince _Lobcowitz_, where

we bait one hour; and from thence proceed to _Deplitz_, the estate and

seat of Count _Clery_, remarkable for an hot bath.

November xxx.

His Excellency from hence designed the straight road, by the way of

_Framstein_, _Friburg_ (where are silver mines, and the tombs of the

electors of Saxony) _Waltheim_, _Coldick_, _Walcowitz_, and so to

_Leipsick_. In the mean time he permitted me to quit his retinue, in

order to see _Dresden_. With this intent I take a post waggon from

_Deplitz_ to _Peterswaldt_, the distance of two miles, in which I pass

the hill of _Kaiasberg_. From _Peterswaldt_ I take a new post, and soon

after I have left the town pass the boundary of _Bohemia_ and _Saxony_;

and at two miles end changing post at a little village not far from

_Pirn_, by this third post I come under its walls, and presently am upon

the banks of the _Elbe_, along which I ride about half an hour, and then

quitting the river arrive about five a clock at _Dresden_, being in all

six miles from _Deplitz_. It being now dark, I repair immediately to my

lodgings at the house of one _Leonard Serert_, betwixt the two market

places, a civil host, who spoke both French and Italian. The way from

_Peterswaldt_ to _Dresden_ is very agreable, being interspersed with

woods of fir. The villages are better built, and more populous, than

those of _Bohemia_; where indeed neither towns nor villages are thin,

but the people very few, and those dejected with a sense of poverty and

slavery, occasioned partly by the tyranny of the church, and partly by

the constitution of the government, which makes the peasants slaves to

their Lords, as in _Moravia_.

December i.

I continue at _Dresden_ this and the three following days, to observe the

curiosities of the place. It is a neat well built town, with straight

and fair streets, compact but not large, enclosed within a regular

fortification, and a deep foss constantly filled with water. It stands

upon the _Elbe_, over which it has a noble bridge, almost as long as that

of _Prague_, supported by eighteen arches, and on each side affording

a delightful prospect along the bending chanel of the water. By this

bridge the city is joined to a neat suburb, called _Old Dresden_, the

residence chiefly of merchants, among whom I found two Englishmen, Mr.

Northleigh and Mr. Dealing, by both whom I was kindly treated. _Dresden_

was always the residence of the Electors of Saxony, till this present

Elector was chosen King of _Poland_. However it is the ordinary seat

both of the Electress, and the Prince, who is six years old; but both

of them happened to be absent now. The Deputy of the Elector is the

Prince of _Furstemberg_, who is of the Popish religion, but the whole

town is intirely Lutheran. They have three churches, _St. Cross_, _Sta.

Sophia_, and the chapel of the court. _St. Cross_ is a large antient

Gothic building, well adorned in the inside, particularly with a carved

and stately altar. The number of ministers is about twelve, whose revenue

is very small, and therefore the people here complain, that they make

up that defect by the abuses of confession. The palace is a fair stone

building, consisting of two courts, of which the first is large and

regular, adorned both within and without with very good carving, and

painting in _fresco_, which deserves regard, particularly one part of it

that fronts the street, and represents a _Roman triumph_. The gardens

are likewise curious, and the riding school is remarkably spatious; but

what obscures every thing else in _Dresden_, and perhaps all others of

the same kind in Germany, is the _kunstkammer_, with the arsenal, and

stable of the Elector. Each of these are shewn to strangers at the price

of three florins, the curiosities of which I reduced into a catalogue.

On the bridge at _Dresden_ is erected a curious brass _crucifix_, not

inferior to that of _Prague_ in the workmanship, but far exceeding it

in design, and bearing an inscription, that disavows all superstitious

worship.

December iv.

At six a clock this evening, it being then very dark, I take a passage

in the ordinary post chaise for _Leipsick_, paying four florins for the

space of thirteen German miles. By ten at night we come to _Misten_,

and there cross the _Elbe_ over a large covered bridge. The benefit of

the star light gives me opportunity to observe some part of the town,

particularly the castle seated on very high ground. Hence we continue our

journey all night, till about ten a clock the next morning we come to

_Wurzen_, where we dine; and then ferrying over the _Muldaw_, now a large

and rapid river, after having endured a cold and severe snow all the day,

we arrive at _Leipsick_ about five a clock in the afternoon, where I

provide myself with a private lodging.

December vi.

This morning his Excellency and his retinue arrive at _Leipsick_ by

eleven a clock, and lodge at the _Golden hen_ in the high street, to

which place I therefore now remove myself.

_Leipsick_ is a neat and compact place, well built, the streets almost

straight, and conveniently wide. The market place is a regular

quadrangle, surrounded with fair and lofty houses, among which is the

town hall, or court of justice. Not far from the market is another small

square, at one end of which is a new and spatious room, to which we

ascend by stone steps. This serves for an exchange, where the merchants

meet. The city has three large churches, one of _St. Nicholas_, another

of _St. Thomas_, and a third called the _New Church_. These are all

well beautified within, especially that of _St. Nicholas_, the altar

of which is a neat pile, representing in good sculpture the burial and

resurrection of our _Savior_, his shewing his wounds to _St. Thomas_ and

the other disciples, and over the whole his ascension in a cloud. At

the upper end of the two outward isles are painted two good pieces of

perspective. The town has no public buildings, besides an old castle,

and a new hospital; the latter of which serves both for the reception of

lunatics, and also a house of correction for vagabonds. The fortification

is regular, and of the new fashion, but not of any great importance;

however it has a foss, that may be filled with water upon occasion from

the _Pleiss_, which washes the walls of the city.

The town is governed by a senate of twenty three, of whom three, called

_Burgomasters_, have the prime authority; and by a chief magistrate, who

has the title of _consul_, and is chosen annually. The present consul is

one _Romanus_, a young gentleman of great fortune, and vast designs; who

is erecting a noble palace in the city, built of free stone. Among the

senators are several persons of quality, who have fair estates, and a

learned education.

There is a good library belonging to the city, lately purchased at

the expence of the senators, and which they daily improve by new

accessions. Among the citizens of this rank and character I contracted

an acquaintance with Mr. _Wagner_, who speaks good English, and has been

long preparing a comment on the obscurities of Barclay’s _Euphormio_,

concerning which he has commissioned me to make several enquiries.

Another person of the like learning and civility is Mr. _Graevius_

(brother to the eminent critic in Holland) who has the care of the

city library, and favoured me with the sight of it. These with many

other particulars, that might be mentioned, are arguments of a rich

and flourishing city; which is occasioned partly from the confluence

of students to the university; and partly from the benefit of three

celebrated fairs of fourteen days each, which are annually kept here, and

furnished with merchandizes of all sorts, not only from the several parts

of Germany, but likewise from Italy, Hungary, France, Holland, England,

and other countries.

The staple commodities of the town are the linen manufacture, and a

natural blue earth, which is dug only in some metalic mines of Saxony,

and which to the vast advantage of this place is exported from hence

to England, Holland, and elsewhere, for the use of dying. As to the

execution of justice, adultery is here a capital crime, but in this case

the criminal must be convicted by his own confession, to which they

oblige him by force of torture. The beauty of the city, which appears

to a good advantage by day light, is however not lost in the night, by

means of their new lamps, which are ranged in an orderly manner, stand

very close to each other, and are kept with great neatness. The gardens

of the principal gentlemen, and merchants here resident, are without the

fortifications; and being as well exceeding rich, as beautified with

great art, add a noble ornament to the place.

The university is in a flourishing state, and has a true taste of polite

literature, especially as to philosophical studies. Tho I know not

whether they merit that character with regard to classical learning. It

is not now so numerous as formerly; because _Hall_, which within these

ten years has been erected into an university by the King of _Prussia_,

depriving them of their numbers, has reduced them perhaps from three

to one thousand students. They have six colleges, called _Paulinum_,

_Petrinum_, _Majorum_ and _Minorum Principum_, _Rubrum_, and _B. Mariae

Virginis_. Each of these have their _praepositus_, and some few stipends.

But when we mention academical colleges abroad, we must fall much below

the idea of those, with which we are so happily acquainted at _Oxford_

and _Cambridge_. In these colleges are their auditories, or schools,

of public lectures for philosophy, and the three superior faculties.

These are regularly taught by their respective professors, of which

the university is furnished with six in divinity, five in law, four in

physic, and nine in philosophy, humanity, and history. Besides these,

several of the more eminent doctors, and elder students, have their

private lectures, to which the younger resort at their pleasure, and

this with greater frequency and better success, than to the lectures

publicly established. The degrees in philosophy are that of batchelor and

master of arts; in the faculties, of licentiate and doctor. Persons of

note in the university, whom I visited, were Dr. _Efficke_ professor of

divinity; and Dr. _Otto Menchenius_ professor of moral philosophy, who

is likewise the editor of the _Acta Eruditorum_, of which I purchased

an intire set from the year 1682 to this present time, consisting of

twenty five volumes in _quarto_. Other eminent persons, with whom I

had a more frequent conversation, were Dr. _Goëtze_, Dr. _Menchenius

junior_, and Mr. _Olearius junior_. The two former are doctors of law,

and the latter professor of humanity. To these I may add Mr. _Thomas

Fritsel_ bookseller, a person who has made an useful tour over Europe;

speaks several modern languages, as well as Latin; and to whom I was

obliged for a particular mark of courtesy, and the present of several

useful books. Not only he, but the three gentlemen last mentioned speak

good English, which language is much esteemed and studied in this place.

Dr. _Menchenius_ shewed me the little work of _Alcyonius De exilio_,

which I was glad to see, because it is said to have been compiled out of

_Cicero’s_ treatise _De gloria_; which the plagiary for that reason took

occasion to suppress. Dr. _Goëtze_ among several fair manuscripts, and

old editions of classic authors, shewed me a neat but antient satyr _On

the Pope and Court of Rome_. It is a manuscript, as yet unprinted, in

Elegiac verse, entitled _Eironeia Gaufridi_. He has also a curious and

fair manuscript of _Columella_, another of a Greek _Menologion_, a very

old _Greek Testament_, printed in Spain, with the Latin in the margin;

but exactly referring in every word by cautious notes from the known

to the unknown language, lest the monks of that time should have taken

γενέσεως to signify _liber_, and βίβλος _generationis_. In another old

Spanish book, concerning the antiquities of that country, he shewed me

a copy of the old Gothic character; in which it is observable, that the

vowels are generally incorporated with the consonants, which they follow.

In the two libraries of this place, the one belonging to the university,

the other to the senate, I took notice of the following curiosities.

In the former I observed two celebrated pictures of _Luther_ and

_Melancthon_, both taken after their death. Several specimens of what

they called _moneta bracteata_, lately found in Saxony; but which I take

to have been only leaves of silver covering a mass of inferior metal.

An old manuscript of _Homer_, with large _Scholia_, which they here

think have never been published. The draught of an old _idol_ worshiped

in Germany; the original of which was a short brass image of an human

figure, hollow within, and contrived to make an artificial wind issue out

of his mouth, like the globes of that sort now become so common.

In the library of the senate I observed an Egyptian _mummy_. Several

Roman _urns_ and _funeral lamps_. Saxon _urns_, like others which I

observed at _Dresden_ and elsewhere, full of thin fragments of bones;

in one of which were found several small iron and brass instruments,

and upon a thin plate of brass the two following letters, ⲱ. ⲉ. A fine

collection of coins. A good manuscript of _Theocritus_. A noble specimen

of the rich silver mines in Saxony, in a mass about three feet long and

two broad, the whole of which almost is pure metal.

Adjoining to the _Collegium Paulinum_ is the university church, where

they have prayers on festival days. It is full of antient and modern

monuments, all of good work. This university took its rise from the

dispersion of the _Hussites_, and the banishment of _John Huss_ himself

from _Prague_. And by its first constitution it is appropriated to four

nations; the _Misnians_ (of whom _Leipsick_ is the metropolis) the

other hereditary countries of the Elector of _Saxony_, the _Bavarians_,

and the _Poles_. The chief magistrate annually elected here is called

_rector magnificus_, as in other German universities; and in him, with

his subordinate officers, rests the sole government and jurisdiction of

this learned body. The present _rector_ is Dr. _Cyprianus_, professor of

divinity.

It was in _Leipsick_, that I first observed the Lutheran manner of

communicating. The priest and the deacon, who assists him, are habited in

surplices, copes, and sleeves, like those of the Greeks and Romanists.

The service is chanted by the priests standing, and the people round

about at a distance, but in the same posture. The consecration being

ended, the communicants draw near, and on the north side of the altar

approach the priest, who delivers into the mouth of each of them still

standing the consecrated wafer. The communicants from thence walk round

the back part of the altar, and so come to the deacon, from whom they

likewise standing receive the cup, and thence return orderly to their

proper places. In the mean time, while the species are delivered by

the priest on one side and the deacon on the other, two choristers

habited likewise in copes and surplices attend each, holding under

them a rich pall of velvet, or other stuff, to receive any particle

of the elements, which may fall accidentally. This done, they likewise

chant a thanksgiving service in a standing posture, and so depart. The

ecclesiastics of the place wear large white ruffs, not only in time of

divine service, but likewise as their ordinary habit when in public; and

with this a round cloth cap, like that lately alloted to the commoners in

the university of _Oxford_.

These are the principal observations I had leisure to make at _Leipsick_,

where his Excellency staid from the sixth to the fourteenth of this

month. On this day therefore we proceed on our journey five German

miles to _Hall_ over an open arable country. This is an antient city,

founded and perfected by the several _Othos_, Emperors of Germany. It

is now large, but meanly built, tho famous for its salt pits, from

whence it has the name of _Hall_. In these they work night and day with

an uninterrupted diligence, nor ever cease, but in the time of divine

service on Sundays. It is situated on the river _Sala_, which name

corresponds with that of the city.

The King of _Prussia_, as has been said, Sovereign of the place, opened

an university here some years since, which at present flourishes with

about a thousand students, and several professors of eminent note, among

these are _Strychius_, _Thomasius_, and _Franckius_. The last is the

person, who sent me formerly into Turkey several little tracts of his

own composition, which had been translated into Latin and Italian, in

order to be distributed here. I therefore visited him this evening, and

discoursed with him upon his famous project of an ample charity; by which

he maintains above six hundred children of both sexes, and that by no

other fund, than collections gathered by his own industry. Three hundred

of these, being boys, he has reduced to a college, which he now calls the

_Orphanotrophium_. It is an handsome building, well contrived for the

reception of so many poor orphans, for their diet, lodging, schooling,

clothing, and afterwards their removal to some proper calling. He has

here a printing house for the use of the society, and from thence have

now been published several treatises, of which he presented me with two,

concerning the _Jewish_ history, and the ecclesiastical government of

_Bohemia_. The King of _Prussia_, who is thought the principal supporter

of this great charity, has lately authorized the _Orphanotrophium_

under an ample patent, and allowed both the society, and the founder

of it, several honourable and advantageous privileges. By this great

undertaking Mr. _Franck_ proposes to lay a scheme and foundation for the

reformation of manners, and better advancement of learning at the same

time. But as he is one of the primary _Pietists_ in all Germany, the

opposite party among the Lutherans in these parts, who in distinction

call themselves the _Orthodox_, cease not to calumniate both him and his

design. Tho how justly, God only knows. He delivered me a packet for Mr.

_Ludolf_, and commissioned me to salute Dr. _Bray_, and Mr. _Woodward_

of _Stepney_, with whom he corresponds in relation to this intended

reformation.

December xv.

From _Hall_ we now pass to _Koendern_, and by the way cross the _Sala_

in a ferry boat at _Alsleber_, leaving _Eisleben_, the birth place of

_Luther_, a little on the right hand. The day following we continue our

journey from _Koendern_ to _Aschersleben_, leaving _Paidleburg_ in sight

on the left hand. And the next day we move forward to _Halberstadt_,

palling from _Upper_ into _Lower Saxony_ in this day’s journey.

_Halberstadt_ is a large town, subject to the King of _Prussia_, having

about fourteen churches, which are pretty equally divided betwixt

Protestants and Papists.

December xviii.

This day we leave _Halberstadt_ and proceed to _Hessen_, a small village

belonging to _Rodolphus Augustus_, Duke of _Brunswick_; who has here an

old moted house, with a pleasant garden, and a fountain of brass work,

which for the variety of animals there artfully represented, and the

device of the whole, deserves to be remarked. We continue here the two

following days, and then set out for _Wolfembutel_, where we arrive at

night, and lodge in the suburbs.

December xxii.

His Excellency departed this morning from _Wolfembutel_ with a design

to go directly to _Hildesheim_; upon which I desire leave to take a

different road, in order to see _Brunswick_, _Hanover_, and _Hamburg_.

However I spent this day at _Wolfembutel_, in observing what was curious

there.

The town is pleasantly seated on the river _Ocker_, in a place not so

intirely level as the other parts of _Lower Saxony_, but enjoying a

variety of rising and declining ground, with a convenient mixture of

woods, which hitherto we observed to be intirely wanting from _Leipsick_

to this place. The city is compactly built, has fair and large streets,

tho no very stately edifices, and is well fortified with a regular

wall, and a double foss. It has two remarkable churches, one of which

is the cathedral, an old Gothic building, adorned with a variety of

sculpture and statues; and the other is a new church, lately erected by

the present Duke of this place, in a peculiar form. It has an ascent

at the front by a handsome staircase on two sides, and then opens into

a perfect oval, which is supported by six stately pillars, and covered

with a cupola. Directly facing the door is a piece of good work in

sculpture, representing the _Virgin_, and other religious figures; and

under this in a small orbicular desk, which appears as an ornament of

the work, is seen the pulpit. Underneath is a table of wood, set so

distinct from the wall, that it cannot properly be called an altar, and

at each end are two high steps for the kneeling of the communicants.

For the Lutherans, who in some places communicate standing, do the same

in others kneeling; and the notion of an altar, with the posture of

receiving, are in their opinion things indifferent. The castle of this

place (which alone is properly _Wolfembutel_) is just without the wall

of the city, and is the residence of the Duke. He has here an academy

for the use of young gentlemen of all nations, where they are instructed

in the arts of fencing, riding, dancing, and other exercises. But what

is most remarkable, in the precincts of the castle is the celebrated

library, founded by _Christianus Augustus_, the father of this Prince.

It consists of two large and spatious galleries, ranged all round with

books, and filled in the middle with a double row of desks, which in the

inner gallery likewise contain shelves for books of lesser volumes. It

was collected with great assiduity, and at a vast expence, by the said

Prince; who himself employed his pains intirely in this design, and

wrote the several catalogues digested in various orders, and consisting

of eight volumes in _folio_, with his own hand. The present librarian

is the famous Mr. _Leibnitz_, who at this time did not reside upon the

place; but an assistant of his shewed the library, and observed to me

the following curiosities. A collection of printed _Bibles_, the largest

and most curious, which are any where to be found. A large manuscript

_English Bible_ in _folio_, which seems very antient and begins thus: _In

the erste made God of nought the hevens and the ery, and the ery forsooth

was vein and veyd, and darknesses weren upon the face of the zee._ At

the bottom of the first page is wrote _Lumley_ in later characters. A

manuscript _Greek Testament_; and two printed copies, one of _Aldus_

and the other at _Hagenoa_, in which is wanting that famous testimony

of _St. John_ concerning the three, that bear witness in heaven. An

antient manuscript of _St. Jerome’s Bible_, written about four hundred

years since, by one who subscribes himself _Abbas Gaufridus Vitulus_;

and at the end of the same has delineated himself, with the head of a

_calf_. A manuscript _Aethiopic Testament_, given by father _Kircher_

to the founder of the library. A copy of the _Psalms_, written in those

characters, which are called _Ciceroniani_ and _Cyprianici_. A voluminous

collection of modern _Histories_, in four hundred manuscript volumes in

_folio_; among which are thirteen called _Chroniques d’Angleterre_. The

whole number cost the Duke two thousand four hundred crowns; but it is

thought, he purchased them much to dear. A fair turning desk with six

leaves, like that before described in the Praemonstratensian library at

_Prague_. A fair _Herbal_, with each flower delineated in its proper

colours. A roll of the _Pentateuch_, and a vail now used by the Jews in

reading the _Law_. Several reliques of _Luther_, as his spoon, drinking

glass, leaden inkbottle, and a _Letter_ in his own hand to one of his

contemporary bishops, in which he sends the salutes of his wife in

these words: _Salutat te, Dominus meus, Ketha reverenter._ Two books

written by Prince _Christian_ himself, founder of the library: one _De

ludo scacchia_, in the German language; the other in _folio_, called

_Cryptographia_, treating of cyphers and other secret devices, in the

title of which he calls himself _Gustavus Selenus_, meaning _Augustus

Luneburgicus_. A fair edition of the _vulgate Latin Bible_ by _Aldus_ at

_Venice_, which reads in _Genesis_ iii. 15, _Ipsum conteret caput tuum_,

instead of the usual _ipsa_.

The present Duke _Antonius Ulricus_, and his brother _Rudolphus

Augustus_, who resides at _Brunswick_, have the title of _Brunswick_ and

_Lunenburg_ in common with their eldest brother the Duke of _Zell_, and

their nephew the Duke of _Hanover_. But their proper government is the

territory of _Brunswick_ and _Wolfembutel_ which they govern by joint

name and authority, both being equally sovereign in each. _Rudolphus_

is about seventy two years of age, plain and unaffected in his carriage,

insomuch that sometimes he takes a private journey to _Hamburg_ where he

walks the streets in the disguise of a country gentleman. But _Antonius_

is a more polite and accomplished prince, affecting the French behaviour

and education; for which end he here maintains the academy above

mentioned He is courtly, and condescending, and greatly beloved by his

subjects. He is now about sixty three years of age, and has two sons;

of which he, who shall live to be his heir, will jointly inherit the

authority and dominions both of his father and uncle _Rudolphus_.

December xxiii.

This morning I take the post waggon for _Brunswick_, which is seated on

the same river as _Wolfembutel_, in a watry plain, having a large extent,

but narrow streets, and houses of the old fashion almost intirely of

wood, most of which have a date over the door of three or four hundred

years standing. The stadthouse is of the same or greater antiquity, and

adorned with a variety of statues on the outside. The town is fortified,

but neither with great regularity nor strength. The castle is the

residence of the Duke, being an old decayed building. I staid here from

nine in the morning till three in the afternoon, where I found the mum,

for which this place is so celebrated, not so good, as that they export

for sale. It is made only of malt well brewed, and the liquor boiled a

second time in an equal quantity of the same. However the art is peculiar

to this place, and cannot be imitated at _Wolfembutel_, tho it is so very

near. Nor, on the other hand, can the excellent beer of _Wolfembutel_ be

equal’d here. They are likewise famous for a large sort of sausage, which

is made of raw meat and spices.

At three a clock I depart for _Hanover_ by the way of _Peine_, with

an intention, as is here the custom, to travel all night. In the way

betwixt seven and eight a clock (which at this time of the year had been

entirely dark, unless for the benefit of the moon) the post horses tired

in an open feild, and refused to stir a step farther; by which means we

were detained above an hour, till the postilion procured others from

a neighbouring village. I was then in company of an Italian man and a

French woman, whose company somewhat relieved the affliction of this

accident. By twelve a clock we reach _Peine_, and after half an hour’s

refreshment the Italian and I proceed for _Hanover_, thro a wide and

watry common.

December xxiv.

By eight a clock this morning I arrive at _Hanover_, where I wait on

Mr. _Cresset_, and his chaplain Mr. _Lombard_. And being invited by the

former to diner, we no sooner rise from table, but news was brought, that

my Lord Paget, having changed his mind, had turned out of the road for

_Heldesheim_ to this place; to whom therefore I repair at his lodgings

without the gate of the city.

December xxv.

Tho this was _Christmas_ day, his Excellency had nevertheless no service

in his family. And the day following I made a visit to Mr. Scott, Sir

Chumley Deering, Mr. Wright, and some others. The next day being Sunday,

his Excellency had service in his family. At five a clock in the evening

I was introduced by Mr. Scott, and lady Belmont, to kiss the hand of

the Princess Dowager _Sophía_, who did me the honour to discourse with

me half an hour about the state of Turkey. The same night a tragedy was

acted at the theatre of the court, and afterwards the _Mariage forcé_

of _Moliere_; which I then saw, for the opportunity of seeing at the

same time the Prince Elector, the Prince his son, and the Princess his

daughter, with the Electress Dowager, who were all present.

December xxviii.

His Excellency proceeds in his way to _Osnaburg_; but I continue still at

_Hanover_, with an intention to take post for _Hamburg_, and dine this

day with Mr. _Cresset_. The day following in the afternoon I visit the

library and cabinet of Abbot _Gerhardus_, otherwise called _Molanus_. His

cabinet consists of a vast collection of modern coins, particularly those

of Germany, among which he has intire sets of the houses of _Brunswick_

and _Saxony_. He has likewise a rich and numerous collection of medals of

all the European kingdoms, stampt upon the most celebrated occasions; and

many of them are gold, some of which weigh an hundred ducats, and others

but little less. Those of _Sweden_ seemed to me the noblest both for the

work and device, particularly one of _Gustavus Adolphus_, upon marching

his army over the frozen _Baltick_, with this inscription: NATURA HOC

DEBVIT VNI. Another of _Charles_ the eleventh, with the reverse of the

_North star_, and inscribed: NESCIT OCCASVM. Those of the house of

_Hanover_ are likewise curious, particularly one of the Princess Dowager,

stampt by her about fourteen years since; the reverse a _sun_ setting

without a cloud, and the words: _Senza turbarmi al fin m’accosto._

Another of the young Prince _George Augustus_, the reverse a _fountain_

springing up in a strong perpendicular column of water, with this legend:

VIS INSITA DVCIT IN ALTVM. Besides these he has a good collection of

antient medals; the most remarkable of which were _Julianus_ the first;

and _Antinous_ of the first size, if genuine, the reverse a _sheep_.

By eleven a clock this night I depart in the post waggon for _Zell_,

and in the way make these observations on _Hanover_, and the persons I

saw there. The town is moderately large, fair, and compact, seated on

the _Leine_, and reasonably well fortified. The palace of the Prince is

old, and mean in outward appearance, but within beautiful and splendid.

The clergy here is but meanly esteemed, and more meanly provided for;

except that Abbot _Gerhardus_ has an income (the sole remainder of church

lands not sequestered) to the yearly value of eight hundred pounds

sterling. By this preferment he is superintendent of the whole clergy in

the territories of the Duke of _Brunswick Hanover_, and is by the same

incapable of marrying. The Elector is a sage, discreet, just, and sober

Prince. The Princess his mother is courteous, affable, condescending,

and prudent; well versed in the Dutch, English, French, and Italian

languages; and gay and vigorous to a miracle at the age of seventy two.

The young Prince is brisk, affable, and ingenious. The Princess, daughter

to the Elector, comely, ingenious, lively, and her courteous behaviour

charms all, who converse with her. Mr. _Cresset_, who has long resided as

Envoy to this court, and those of _Zell_, _Brunswick_, and _Wolfembutel_,

is a wise and pious gentleman, has a family well governed, and lives much

to the honour of himself and his country.

December xxx.

By seven a clock this morning I arrive at _Zell_, where I remain the rest

of the day, and take that opportunity of seeing the castle; as likewise

the venerable old Duke, _William George_, now eighty years of age; to

whom I was admitted by the favour of Mr. _Robbeton_ and Mr. _De la

Forest_, two gentlemen who here shewed me great civility.

December xxxi.

I set forward from _Zell_, and lodge this night at a post house, in a

small village called _Sorndorf_. The country is here pleasant, with a

variety of fir, oak, and other wood, but for the most part barren, and

overrun, with heath.

January i.

From _Sorndorf_ I reach _Harburg_ by twelve a clock this day, dine there,

and then take boat for _Hamburg_ cross the _Elbe_. The river is here

above a German mile broad, and interspersed with various islands. In the

evening I delivered Mr. _Cresset’s_ recommendations to Mr. Aldersey,

who thereupon received me courteously, and procured me a good lodging

from Mr. Townly in the English house. I was detained here to the twenty

eighth of this month, partly by the extremity of the frost, which had

made the _Elbe_ now unpassable; and partly by the kindness of our English

merchants, who reside in this place.

_Hamburg_ is a free imperial city, chief of the _Hanse_ towns, and seated

on the north side of the _Elbe_, where it receives the _Alster_. The

figure of it is semicircular, being almost straight towards the _Elbe_,

which it receives by many chanels into the very heart of the city. Some

of these chanels serve as harbours to the ships, others to convey goods

to the magazines of merchants, and others to bring water to the houses,

particularly of the brewers, who have cranes to draw water into their

vessels. It is about two Italian miles in length, and above five in

circumference. The streets are well paved, tho narrow, and the houses

beautiful in the front, especially in the _Wantrum_, the _Green_, and

_Catherine_ street. The fortifications are substantial, consisting

intirely of ramparts of earth, covered with grass, and not faced with

brick. They are constantly maintained in good repair; tho it is commonly

objected to them, that the inward works are too high, so that being

raised too much above the outward, they are exposed to the first attack

of the enemy. There are six gates, all beautiful and stately buildings;

that particularly, which is called the gate of _Altena_, because it leads

to that place, is said to have cost an hundred thousand crowns. The

strength of the city was lately tried, in the year 1686 (If I mistake

not) by the King of _Denmark_, who then laid siege to it, tho without

success. He had depended upon the treachery of two principal burgers,

who had promised to admit him into the town; but their treason being

accidentally detected, and they put to the torture, the matter was soon

confessed, and they deservedly executed. The head of one of them is still

exposed on an iron Spike over the _Steingate_. In confidence of this

concerted treachery that Prince came so unprovided, that he could invest

no more of the town, than that which faces _Altena_ which gave occasion

to the Holland _gazeteer_ to say, that the King of _Denmark_ had besieged

the eighth part of _Hamburg_. During the siege he was baffled even by the

small castle, called _Sternfort_, about a mile distant from the town;

which by a line of communication they releived every day at twelve a

clock, and so maintained it against the enemy. To add to the strength

of the city they are now building a new detached work, consisting of an

intire rampart, to be continued from the east side of the _Alster_ to the

_Elbe_, which is a noble fortification, and will at the same time guard

and enlarge the space of the city. It is divided into the _New_ and the

_Old City_, the former of which is the more stately and beautiful of the

two.

The religion of this place is Lutheran, in which the government is so

strict, as to admit of no other religious assembly, except that of the

church of England, which is allowed to the English company. The city is

divided into five parishes, that of _St. Catharine_, _St. Peter_, _St.

James_, _St. Nicholas_, and _St. John_. To each of these are dedicated

so many fair and spatious churches, all well adorned with sculptures,

paintings, organs, and altars. That of _St. Catharine_ exceeds the rest,

and is particularly remarkable for a noble stone pulpit, the whole

consisting of the bed marble, carved into the figures of the twelve

_Apostles_, and other religious devices; for several large inimitable

pieces of painting in _fresco_ against the north wall; and for a

stately organ, supposed to be the largest and finest in the world. It

has fifty four stops, and consists of five thousand pipes, all gradually

proportioned from the biggest, which is three fourths of an English

yard in diameter, to the least, no larger than the last joint of ones

little finger. In the same church is admirably well painted the _Temple

of Solomon_ in perspective. Besides these parish churches, there is the

cathedral, commonly there called the _Dome_; and a new church in the

middle of the _New City_. The _Dome_ is now almost out of use, except

for some occasional sermons; and the porch, with the several isles, are

possessed by booksellers shops: tho this is what is likewise common

to the porches, and other outward apartments, of the most frequented

churches. The five parish churches, and that of the _New City_, have

each of them their pastor, and besides him two or three chaplains; so

that the number of clergymen here amounts to above twenty, of which one

is superintendant over them, and the clergy of the whole territory. This

however is very small, as not reaching down the river _Elbe_ farther than

the limits of _Altena_, a large town within half a mile of _Hamburg_,

belonging to the King of _Denmark_. On the other sides it is encompassed

with the dominions of the Duke of _Holstein_, at the distance of two or

three miles; only up the _Elbe_ it has a narrow tract of ground subject

to the city, for the space of twenty miles, in which are some small

villages, that acknowledge its jurisdiction. The church lands belonging

to the cathedral are now possessed by burgers, or others of the city; but

under the same titles, by which they formerly belonged to the church,

as _dean_, _canons_, and others. Which sequestration, as it seems to be

a sacrilegious usurpation; so their continuing the right under the same

titles, is only a monument and confession of the crime.

The government of the city is by a free and sovereign jurisdiction of

their own, which is lodged in three orders of men, the burgomasters, the

senate, and the burgers. The burgomasters are four persons chosen out

of the senate, of which two are yearly regent. The senate consists of

about twenty, chosen as vacancies happen out of the burgers. The burgers

compose the whole body of the citizens, ranked under their five distinct

parishes. This government some what resembles that of antient _Rome_,

by consuls, senate, and people; and is excellent in itself, but very

liable to be perverted by the prevalency of any of the parts, of which

it consists. This is at present seen in the case of _Hamburg_, where

the burgers by reason of their multitude, and the seditious spirit of

inferior persons, have so far usurped the power of the place, that they

terrify the senate, and stop all public proceedings, which are not to

their relish. Particularly they are now so obstinate, as to refuse their

consent to the supply towards the war, required by the Emperor, and to

other public levies of the city, till they can extort the consent of

the senate for restoring one Dr. _Meyer_ to his pastoral office of _St

James_. This is a violent seditious man, suspected of an ill life, but

of a ready overbearing eloquence in the pulpit; who, about five years

since had quitted his pastoral office in _Hamburg_, for another like

charge, and superintendency in _Pomerania_. His parishioners now recall

him to his cure at _Hamburg_, which he publicly declines; but privately

encourages, and thereby occasions a lamentable faction and sedition in

the town. His own and two other parishes press his return, and refuse to

treat of other business, till the senate shall consent thereto. But they

being duly cautious of admitting so dangerous a person into the city,

who is now more particularly suspected of intriguing against them, in

dependence on the King of Sweden, will never admit thereof; especially as

he insists upon returning in his own rank, and in prospect of the same

seniority, he before obtained in the place.

The burgomasters of this place never appear in public, but in a peculiar

dress; which consists of an high crowned hat made of cloth, plated

thick and strong in numerous folds; with a large ruff; and a black

velvet coat ending at the knees, and plaited from the middle. There

are likewise several other antient habits used by all public persons,

even to midwives, dressers of the dead, and those who bear the corps to

funerals. The habit of their divines is a round black cap, a ruff, and

a gown without sleeves. All these may commonly be seen at once in the

solemnity of a funeral, which they here affect to make very pompous for

all persons, even those of little children. The burgomasters, senators,

divines, lawyers, physicians, and as many of all sorts, as they can

procure, attend the corps from the house to the church; for which they

are each paid a certain fee, the chief about a florin, and inferiors

proportionably. It is observable, that the bearers of the corps have a

peculiar step, all moving their leg at the same time croswise from one

side to the other.

This city wholly subsists by trade, which it still enjoys to a great

degree. But they now complain, that they begin to be robbed of their

former flourishing commerce by _Lubeck_ and _Bremen_, and even the poor

town of _Altena_, which with regret they see rising under their walls.

Here is the staple of linen from Germany; cloth from England; and wines

from Spain, France, and the Rhine. Of this last the city preserves a

vast stock in public cellars; the largest of which, being a magazine of

_Rhenish_ wine, I visited one evening, and was there assured, that they

have the wine of every year since 1623; and accordingly we then drank of

three sorts, 1623, 1664, and 1678. At the same time I tried the perfect

clearness of the loaf sugar of this place; which they purify to such a

degree, that it does not discolour the cleared _Rhenish_ wine.

The English company, which upon the decay of _Antwerp_ removed to this

place, is a regular, gentile, and hospitable society of merchants.

They were here granted large privileges, which they still enjoy; tho

at home our English parliament has lately infringed those, which they

had permitted them. Their goods from England are imported free of

custom, except that they pay a trifle as an acknowledgement. Their own

jurisdiction, and religion, is freely granted them. The town first

presented them with a large piece of building, which they obliged

themselves to keep in perpetual repair. In this there is a public chapel;

and an apartment, which they call the _Ordinary room_, where all the

company, who are unmarried, dine and sup at one table, and the deputy

governor and assistants meet upon public occasions. Adjoining to it is

the house of the deputy governor, the minister, and the secretary; all

likewise given by the town, and maintained by them. The governor of this

company at present resides in England; but the other officers, as the

deputy governor, secretary, and assistants, to the number of twenty four,

are all resident upon the place, and dispatch all business relating to

the society; which is contrary to the custom of the Turkey company, the

governing part whereof always resides in England. The deputy governor and

secretary are chosen, or confirmed, either quarterly or yearly; and the

same is practised with the minister, whose salary, besides the benefit

of an house, is two hundred pounds a year. The number of merchants,

assistants, and others, may here amount from thirty to forty persons;

and with their wives, children, and servants, their congregation (which

is very regular) is seen on Sunday from an hundred and fifty to two

hundred persons. My conversation during my stay at _Hamburg_ was chiefly

among these; and I had more particularly the friendship of Mr. Free,

deputy governor; Mr. Aldersey, secretary; Mr. Emerson, minister; Mr.

Stratford, Manning, Lethieullier, and Remington merchants; and their

respective families. I preached every Sunday, while I continued here;

and received many tokens of favour from the whole company; particularly

on the sixteenth of January, a present of a silver tankard, value forty

crowns. At the same time I had the honour of being known to Mr. Wyat, her

Majesty’s resident at this place, and deputed likewise to the _Hanse_

towns of _Bremen_ and _Lubeck_.

There is a good and well furnished library belonging to this city, which

adjoins to the church of _St. John_. And during my stay here I had the

opportunity of conversing with _Jo. Albertus Fabricius_, a person of

great learning, and famous for some works he has already published. I

visited likewise _Mynhéer Langerman_, a druggist, who shewed me some

curious _ores_; and _pieces of eight_, fished up from a Spanish wreck;

with the _piedra de puerco_, about the size of a large nutmeg, which is

found in the bladder of some hogs in the _Philippine_ islands, a great

sudorific, and esteemed a sovereign remedy against intermitting fevers.

One stone is usually valued at a hundred ducats.

The night I visited the wine cellar at Mr. Manning’s house, we saw a man,

named _George Po_, born at _Prague_, who eat raw flesh, glass, paper,

and above all things raw flax and tow, which he devoured very greedily,

and called it his chief delicacy. He likewise swallows large stones, and

accustoms himself to devour all unnatural substances, even perukes; tho

of this last he is now somewhat cautious, since his twin brother died by

eating one at _Halberstadt_. A senator’s wife of this city maintains an

opera house, where they have a prodigious large stage, and great variety

of well painted scenes. Here Mr. Lethieullier one night entertained us

to our great satisfaction. At the same place, and belonging to the same

woman, is shewn the famous model of _Solomon’s Temple_, being the exact

resemblance of that fabric, as described by the best authors, expressed

in every part by carved wood work to the hight of an English yard,

and all the inward apartments perfectly exhibited to the eye, as the

workman takes it to pieces for the satisfaction of the spectators. This

ingenious machine cost no less than ten thousand dollars.

The inhabitants of _Hamburg_ are censured as proud, formal, and

ceremonious; the magistrates as addicted to vice, libertinism, and

self interest; and the people as turbulent, and seditious; whence many

prognosticate ill to the trade, and future power of the city. The

language, which they here speak, is called the _Plat Dutch_, being a

medium betwixt that of Germany and Holland.

During my stay here, I was informed of a detestable practice, frequent

among many melancholy and disordered persons of this place; who being

weary of life, and apprehensive of the sin of self murder, rather choose

to murder some innocent child, and by that means to be brought to

capital punishment, by which they attain their desire of death, with the

advantage, as they imagine, of a previous time for repentance, without

the guilt of their own hand. At the same time they esteem the child,

whom they choose to sacrifice, to be without any guilt of conscience, as

having not yet arrived to years of discretion[140]. This tragedy happens

every year, as many experienced witnesses among our merchants assured me;

and they attribute the frequency of the practice to the great facility of

their confessors, in affording peace and fair promises to all sorts of

dying penitents.

Another tragedy lately acted at _Hamburg_ was of a monstrous virago, born

in the dukedom of _Zell_, who by an unnatural disposition of her uterine

parts was capable of acting the part of a man; and accordingly she made

it her practice in rambling from place to place to marry at each a young

woman, several of whom she had murdered. With her last spouse, whom she

had let into all her mysterious impiety, she murdered one of her former

wives; as likewise a man, whom they had cajoled for sometime into their

company, and whose head they afterwards boiled for venefical uses, as

they pretended. But being caught and tortured, they confessed this black

history of their life, and were executed here about a year since.

The campain about the neighbourhood of _Hamburg_ is green, and well

distinguished with wood and shade; but at a farther distance, like other

parts of _Lower Saxony_, it is a dull and unfruitful heath. The immediate

circuit of the walls affords delicious walks, all kept in good repair,

and adorned on each side with rows of trees, kept in a beautiful order.

Sometime after we had received the account of the capture of the Spanish

galleons at _Vigo_, happening to have a leisure hour, I amused myself in

writing the following short poem upon that agreable subject.

_Erit altera, quae vehat Argo_

_Delectos heroas._ Virg. Ecl. iv. ℣. 34.

_Hactenus Argoos cecinisti, Graecia, nautas,_

_Et rudis aethereo pinus in axe micat;_

_Altera Britannas nunc implet Iberia puppes,_

_Terraque Phrixeam Cantabra mittit ovem._

_Alter es Aeëtes, Lodoix, vinctusque sopore_

_Aeterno serpens Gallica classis erit._

_Aesoniden, Ormonde, refers; et forte puella,_

_Quae tibi Medeam praestet, Ibera fuit._

_At quantum Argolicae praeluxerit Angla juventae,_

_Sit memor aeterno carmine fama loqui._

_Unica tunc unam decoravit praeda carinam;_

_Millia nunc referunt vellera mille rates._

_Anna, parens orbis, pretiosam carpere lanam_

_Incipe, et augusta fila novare manu;_

_Protinus optato flavescent saecla metallo,_

_Et fluet e fusis aurea vita tuis._

January xxviii.

Resolving at last to take leave of my good friends at _Hamburg_, _Mynhéer

Platia_, with two other merchants, and myself, hire a post waggon for

_Holland_. We set forward by seven a clock in the morning, and continue

our way two German miles up the river, by the village of _Offensey_ to

_Blankeness_; there we cross the _Elbe_, and proceed to a town called

_Buxtchude_ in the dominion of _Sweden_, and by night arrive at a poor

house in the wood called _Arnswoldt_. Here we drive in with our waggon,

and alight at the same room, which was to receive us and our horses,

and be at the same time our chamber and parlour, and the kitchin of our

old landlady, who was smoked like a ham of bacon. We found her with her

houshold, brooding over a fire hearth in the middle of this apartment,

common to her self and cattle. Over which there was no chimney, but a

wooden rack well stored with bacon, where the smoke was employed to

prepare the provision of the year, without wasting itself at the funnel

of a chimney. We are laid on a large heap of straw[141], whilst the cows

are chewing the cud on each side, and lulling us to sleep. It was here I

first saw the black bread of this country, called _bonpournickel_; and

was told, that this with plenty of swines flesh, and the thick water of

this flat country, were the only dainties of the place. However, it was

our good fortune not to be reduced to that diet; for we fared well on our

hamper, which we brought with us from _Hamburg_.

January xxix.

Leaving this disagreable place very early, we arrive at the gates of

_Bremen_ late at night, and are therefore obliged to lodge in the

suburbs, till we could enter the town the next morning. It is a large

and fair city, free of the empire, and one of the most considerable

_Hanse_ towns, seated on the _Weser_, or _Visurgis_. Here we baited at

the wine cellar over against the Exchange, where there is a magazine of

good _Rhenish_, inferior in nothing but the quantity of vessels, and

largeness of the stock, to that of _Hamburg_. We then proceed by nine a

clock (after I had visited Mr. Willet, an English merchant) and on the

farther side of the town cross the river under a noble gate, which in

an inscription calls this VETVSTISSIMVS VISVRGIS TRAIECTVS. The _Weser_

is here fair, wide, and almost straight, affording a reception for the

vessels belonging to the town; but those of a greater burthen are obliged

to remain some leagues lower. At this river we now leave _Lower Saxony_,

and enter the circle of _Westphalia_. In an hour and a half we come to

_Delmenhorst_, an old town and castle belonging to the King of _Denmark_.

From thence we proceed to _Wildeshusen_, a town in the dominion of the

Elector of _Hanover_, where we lodge.

January xxxi.

We go on this day to _Klopperburg_, a town of the _Lower Bishoprick_ of

_Munster_; from whence in a little time we reach the banks of the _Hase_,

and in a few hours more the town thence called _Haselun_, where we take

up our lodging that night.

February i.

We had hitherto found _Westphalia_ a desolate and wild country, overrun

with heath, except here and there adorned with small groves of stately

oak, in the middle of which we commonly found a single farm house,

enclosed with rude pales like a park, which in summer time must be truly

pleasant. In several places by the road side are seen posts, with iron

boxes on the top, for the receipt of charity, as if the land it self

confessed its poverty. However in this day’s journey the appearance

began to alter, for about ten a clock we arrived at _Lingen_, a pretty

compact and well built town, which lately belonged to King _William_,

but now to the King of _Prussia_. The neighbourhood is well stored with

woods; the skirts of the town adorned with frequent gardens, and alleys

of trees orderly planted; and the whole place by a show of riches and

beauty confessing, as it were, the benefit of a moderate and protestant

government.

Just beyond the limits of this town we cross the _Ems_, or _Amasia_, by

a ferry boat, and afterwards continue our journey to _Northern_, the

first town of the _United Provinces_, in the limits of which we now pass

out of _Westphalia_ into _Overissel_. After a short bait we proceed

to _Otmarsh_, and there lodge. This is the first place, since I left

_Hamburg_, where I was offered a bed, having hitherto slept in my cloaths

upon the straw.

February ii.

We now proceed by the way of _Almeloo_, and so to _Deventer_, over the

plains, where his late Majesty delighted sometimes to hunt. These plains

are covered with heath, and therefore afford not so good riding; but

at the same time they are enclosed within long tracts of hills rising

gently, which give the sportsman a convenient sight of the chase.

February iii.

We stop this day at _Deventer_, and put up at a public inn, where we dine

with some Danish officers; and after diner I pay a visit to the learned

_Gisbertus Cuperus_, who entertained me very obligingly, shewed me his

library, coins, inscriptions, and other curiosities. In his library were

several large volumes of letters, written by him in the name of the

states, or on other public occasions. Among his coins was one with the

title of IMP. VNICVS. And among his inscriptions this which follows:

MACSVSANO HERCVLI SACRVM

FLAVIVS SVMMVS MAGISTRATVS

He seemed to think this was _Hercules_ of _Mackshusen_, a town not far

distant from hence. I continue the following day at _Deventer_, and from

thence write to my freinds at _Hamburg_.

February v.

From _Deventer_ I now proceed in three hours to _Loo_, where I was

entertained for some hours in viewing the house and gardens of his late

Majesty, and then go forward to a village called _Fortshausen_, where I

take up my lodging. The next day I continue my journey to _Amersford_,

where I dine, and by four a clock reach _Utrecht_.

February vii.

This and the two following days I remain at _Utrecht_, where I now first

visit, and contract a very agreable acquaintance with Mr. _Paul Foley_,

student of that university; who the day after obliged me with his company

in a _treck schuyt_ to _Leyden_, where I view the physic garden, and

adjoining galleries of natural rarities; the academy, anatomy theatre,

great church, and other curiosities of the place. And the next morning I

take the like passage for _Rotterdam_.

February xii.

This day I went to the _Hague_, where at length I again met his

Excellency; having seen _Delft_ and _Ryswick_ in the way. At _Delft_

particularly I was entertained with a sight of the great church, and

fine monument erected there in memory of _William_ the first, Prince of

_Orange_. And the next day I continue to attend his Excellency at the

_Hague_.

February xiv.

This day, being Sunday, I depart from the _Hague_, with his Excellency,

Mr. Paget, and Mr. Foley, in a _treck schuyt_, by the way of _Leyden_,

for _Amsterdam_; where we put up at the _Oude Heeren logement_. And

staying here the two following days, after paying a visit to Mr.

_Marcus_, I amuse myself with viewing the magazine of the admiralty, the

stadthouse, and spinhouse; the hospital of boys and girls, with that of

old women; the rasphouse, and other public buildings.

February xviii.

I return this day to _Leyden_, and there see Mr. _De la Faye_, brother

of the English minister of that place; and with him visit _Jacobus

Gronovius_, professor of eloquence and history, and at this time

_rector magnificus_; from whom I receive a copy of _Mynhéer Cosson’s_

inscriptions, among which are some not published in the _Memoria

Cossoniana_.

February xix.

We now leave _Leyden_, and go back to _Rotterdam_, where his Excellency

is lodged at the _Doole_ for about eight days, and then removes to

_Winestreet_. During this time I become acquainted with Mr. Richard Davis

on the _Heering vliet_, the chief promoter of the new episcopal English

church, now building at the upper end of that _vliet_. I observe whatever

is remarkable here, particularly the statue of _Erasmus_, and the house

of his birth; and likewise pay a visit to _Mons. Bayle_.

March vi.

I attend his Excellency to the _Hague_, and the next day, being Sunday, I

go to _Rotterdam_, there preach to the episcopal congregation, and return

to the _Hague_ that evening. The day following I walk from thence to the

_House_ in the wood, which is a fine summer retirement, neatly built, and

furnished with good painting, by _Frederic Henry_, Prince of _Orange_.

March x.

I depart with Dr. _Timeni_ for _Leyden_, where I now propose a long stay.

And here I contract an acquaintance with Mr. _Neufville_, an ingenious

and polite gentleman, master of a good library, and a curious collection

of antiquities. With him also and Dr. _Timeni_ I visit several of the

professors, as _Gronovius_, _Perizonius_, and _Triglandius_; and see

likewise the library, and especially the manuscripts of this university.

Among other curiosities in the _museum_ of Mr. _Neufville_, I observed

the following inscriptions, cut in marble tablets.

CONSIMILES FRATRVM TRABEAS GESTAMINA HONORVM

TERTIA QVAE DEERANT ADDIDIMVS TITVLIS.

This, which follows, is on a stone opposite to the former.

DILECTAE PROBVS HAEC PERSOLVO MVNERA MATRI

RESTITVENS STATVIS PRAEMIA QVAE DEDERAT[142].

D. M.

P. CAESIO EVTYCHETI

FIL.B.M.Q.V.A.XXII.M.X.D.XXIV.

H. III. FONTEIVS EVTYCHES

ET LEPIDVS PARENTES D.

.... RIO CVRATORI VIAE

.. ET ALIMENTORVM

..I PVBLICAE AECIANENSIVM

.. RICVLANORVM

.. OVINCIAE ASIAE

.. ARIO O. K. FLAMINI

COS. AQVARVM ET M .........

ELECTO AD IVDICAND. SACR ..

RECTORI ITALIAE REG. IR ....

CVRATORI COLONIAR. SPL ....

LVGDVNENSIVM CAL .........

CALENORVM XIIVIR ROM ....

This, which follows, was on a gemm.

ΔΡΑΚΩΝ

ΘΕΑΓΕΝΟΥΣ

ΑΛΚΙΜΟΣ

ΤΟΞΟΤΗΣ

ΑΘΗΝΑ.

On the opposite side was a bent bow, with a quiver and arrow, as likewise

a serpent twining about the bow; and on the right side was ingraven the

word ΑΝΤΙΨΙΛΟΥ.

March xvii.

I now desire my dismission from the family of his Excellency, and hire a

lodging for myself. And such was his generosity, that two days afterwards

he was pleased to send me the residue of my salary, with half as much

more, as was then due, at the rate of eighty pounds a year.

March xxvi.

I see the curious work in cut paper by a woman at _Rotterdam_. And three

days afterwards going to _Delft_, I visit Mr. _Leewenhoek_, and see his

microscopes, with many curious discoveries upon insects, and other minute

animals. The same day I pass to the _Hague_, to gratify my curiosity in

viewing such things, as before had escaped my observation.

March xxx.

The wind setting fair for England, I hasten to _Rotterdam_, to take leave

of his Excellency, who embarked at two a clock. Here I purchase a large

number of books, and other necessaries, to a considerable value.

April ii.

I quit my lodgings at _Rotterdam_, and remove to the _Hague_. The

day following I visit the church of _Launsdone_ where I found this

inscription under two brass basins: _Margareta, Hermani Comitis

Henebergae uxor, filia Gulielmi Caesaris, anno_ MCCLXXVI 365 _enixa

est pueros etc. sicut in hac tabula ex vetustis tam manuscriptis, quam

typis excusis, chronicis positum ac enarratum est_. The same afternoon

I pass on to _Honstardyke_, where I see the _orangery_ four hundred and

fifty yards long; the East India _buffalo_, male and female; the aviary,

in which is a white peacock, the birds called _lepelaars_, and variety

of foreign ducks and geese; the stable of foreign beasts, among which

is the _mamót_ of East India (like a stag, but with twisted horns) and

a _cassaware_; the gardens, in which are several beautiful statues,

particularly one of a _gladiator_; the house consisting of one intire

quadrangle within two good galleries, the Queen’s japan cabinet, and the

King’s well furnished with curious paintings.

April xvii.

I now return again to _Amsterdam_, by the way of _Gouda_, in company with

Mr. _Vandeput_. Here we stop to observe the excellent painted glass in

the several windows of that church; and then proceeding in our passage

by the _treck schuyt_ arrive at _Amsterdam_ by six a clock next morning,

and after diner make a visit to Dr. _Cockburn_. The next day we are

introduced by the Doctor to see Mr. _De Wild’s_ cabinet, richly furnished

with coins, gems, sculptures, and statues. Among the rest of his

curiosities he has an excellent piece, representing the _Massacre_ of the

_De Witts_, a good brass _Otho_, and a fine _Venus Anadyomene_. The day

following the Doctor procured for us the like favour from Mr. _Vincent_,

whose cabinet consists of a very numerous and well disposed collection of

animals and shells.

April xxii.

Mr. _Cockburn_, son of the Doctor, Mr. _Vandeput_, and I, divert

ourselves, by making a short excursion to _Sardam_, in _North Holland_,

remarkable for the great number of windmills that surround it, and the

large quantity of timber, which always lies there ready prepared for

building of ships. We return in the evening to _Amsterdam_; and the next

day I purchase of _Mynhéer Visscher_ a set of _Geographical Charts_,

both _Old_ and _New_; and then visit _Mynhéer Uilenbroek_, a curious

gentleman, possessed of a very large and well chosen library, as also a

cabinet of coins and other rarities.

April xxiv.

I depart for _Harlem_, and there visit the learned _Antony Van Dale_, by

profession a physician, in opinion an anabaptist. He entertained me very

obligingly with a sight of the neat gardens, costly tulips, and other

amusements of that place. In discoursing with him on divers subjects

of learning, he seemed in some things over sceptical, questioning

particularly the authority of the _Apocalypse_. I go the same night to

_Leyden_, and from thence the next day to _Rotterdam_.

April xxviii.

Returning again to _Harlem_, Mr. _Van Dale_ carries me to visit _Mynhéer

Koolaert_, a merchant, and father of a beautiful daughter, named

_Hester_, about seventeen years of age, born deaf and consequently dumb;

but taught to speak (tho not very articulately) by one Dr. _Amman_, who

has published a book upon that art, of which the young lady gave me a

copy in _Dutch_, and her father another in _Latin_. She asked me after

Mr. _Rombouts_ of _Constantinople_; and I answering he is dead, she

discerned what I said by the motion of my lips. By the same means she can

discourse at large with her mother even in the dark, by feeling her lips

when speaking. She writes well, and paints curiously. And her mother is

an excellent Latinist. The same day Mr. _Van Dale_ shewed me a specimen

of the first printing, kept in the town house of this place; and in the

market place the inscription, asserting that invention to _Harlem_:

MEMORIAE SACRVM

TYPOGRAPHICA ARS ARTIVM OMNIVM CONSERVATRIX

HIC PRIMVM INVENTA A L. COSTERO HARLEMENSI MCCCCXXIIX.

The next day I leave _Harlem_, and return to _Amsterdam_.

May i.

This morning, with Dr. _Cockburn_ and Mr. _Vandeput_, I visit the

learned Mr. _le Clerc_. He shewed me the _Thesaurus linguae Latinae_

of _Rob. Stephanus_, improved by manuscript notes of the author’s own

hand; as also _Irenaeus_, _Lib._ v. _cap._ 2. concerning the presence in

the sacrament; and complained of Mr. _Grabe_, as misrepresenting the

church of England in his notes. In the afternoon, in company with Mr.

_Vandeput_, I review the cabinet of _Mynhéer Uilenbroek_; and by his

leave copy the two following sepulchral inscriptions, one in Latin, and

the other in Greek, the former of which is peculiarly remarkable for the

corruption of the language.

D. M. S.

NON. SVFECERAT. VNO. DOLORE.

MISEROS. BIBERE. PARENTES.

QVOD. IAM. VNAM. NATAM. OMISER

ANT. ANTE. ECCE. NVNC. ET. ALIAM.

SAEPELITAM. VNO. DOLOREM.

QVOD. IAM. PROPE. NYPPTVM. MYSERAE.

DEFVNCTAE. SVNT. AMBAE. SET.

QVI. DOLOR. ABS. TE. NOBIS. HARMO

NIA. RVFA. RELICTVM. EST. VT. ANNI

S. XIII. M. VI. D. XXVI. NOBISCVM. AD

VIXERIS. VNA. ET. NOS. OPTAMVS.

AD. VOS. PROPERARE. PARENTES.

EGO. PATER. HARMONIVS. JANVA

RIVS. CVM. BESTA. MATREM.

QVAE GEMVIT. VIBET. ET. DOLET. CLO

DIA. TROPHIME. NEC. DVBITA

MVR. ENIM. VITA. CARERE. MO ....

ΗΛΥΘΕΣ. ΟΥΚ. ΑΒΟΑΤΟΣ. ΕΝΙ. ΤΡΙΣΣΑΙΣ. ΔΕΚΑΔΕΣΣΙΝ.

ΘΕΥΔΟΤΕ. ΤΑΝ. ΖΩΟΙΣ. ΟΙΜΑΝ. ΟΦΕΙΛΟΜΕΝΑΝ.

ΚΑΙ. ΣΕ. ΤΟΝ. ΕΝ. ΣΠΟΝΔΑΙΣΙ. ΓΕΓΑΘΟΤΑ. ΠΟΥΛΥ. ΜΕΤ. ΑΣΤΩΝ.

ΜΑΤΗΡ. ΑΙΑΖΕΙ. ΜΥΡΟΜΕΝΑ. ΠΡΥΤΑΝΙΝ.

ΠΕΤΡΟΣ. Ο. ΔΕ. ΞΕΙΝΟΙΣΙ. ΒΟΑΣΕΤΑΙ. ΩΣ. ΑΙΔΑΛΟΣ.

ΑΣΦΑΛΕΣ. ΑΝΘΡΩΠΟΙΣ. ΟΥΘΕΝ. ΕΝΕΙΜΕ. ΤΥΧΑ.

ΕΙΗΣ. ΤΟΙ. ΣΥΜ. ΠΑΤΡΙ. ΚΕΧΑΡΜΕΝΟΣ. ΟΦΡΑΝ. ΕΣ. ΑΨΩ[143].

ΣΩΣΤΡΑΤΟΣ. ΕΝ. ΦΘΙΜΕΝΟΙΣ. ΜΥΡΙΟΝ. ΑΙΝΟΝ. ΕΧΗ.

May iii.

Mr. _Vandeput_, Dr. _Cockburn’s_ youngest son, and myself, hire a

couple of chaises, and make a journey into _North Holland_. We pass

_Monnikedam_, the _Beemster_, and so to _Alckmair_; where we observe

the beautiful and clean streets, the stadthouse, the church, and noble

picture there of the year 1504, the delightful woods, and artificial

walks. We return that night, but not without being imposed on by the

owner of our chaises.

May xi.

Having continued thus long at _Amsterdam_, enjoying the company of my

good friends, and amusing my self with the variety of entertainments,

which this place affords to strangers, I now depart for _Naerden_ in the

_treck schuyt_ by the way of _Muyden_, whither I am kindly accompanied

by Mr. _Le Jolle_. There I arrive by two a clock, and having viewed that

complete and compact fortification, I depart at six in a post chaise

for _Utrecht_, where I arrive by nine, and lodge without the gate. In

the morning I repair to Mr. _Foley_, and am by him invited to lodge in

his apartment. He carried me to visit _Holthenus_, a learned divine

and minister of the place, who had then the care of the new edition of

_Gruter_; and has a good collection of coins, among which was observable

_Nerva_ of the largest size, the reverse a palm tree, with the legend

FISCI IVDAICI CALVMNIA ABLATA.

May xiv.

Mr. _Foley_ and my self hire a traveling chaise and pair at _Utrecht_,

with which we proceed to _Amerford_, and from thence to the King’s house

at _Loo_, where we arrive by three a clock in the afternoon. And upon our

return to _Utrecht_ the day following, I begin to think of _England_, and

accordingly prepare my self for a voyage by the first convenient passage.

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

_To the Reverend Dr._ Thomas Turner.

Reverend Sir,

Your great goodness will excuse the tardiness of this letter, when I

assure you, that I have been long ambitious of collecting any thing, that

might deserve your notice; tho hitherto I have been successless in that

desire. Many things indeed have occurred observable to me; but I could

not hope at the same time, that they might appear such to you. For it is

common with unexperienced travelers to be transported with pleasure and

admiration, when their accounts are not able to raise the same affections

in their freinds; either because they converse with men of better

judgment, or because the most valuable relations must needs be heard with

a greater coldness, than the things were seen. But notwithstanding these

discouragements, I have lately looked back upon my _Journal_, to see if

any thing might there appear remarkable at this distance; and tho a short

voyage by sea must be barren of all real curiosity, yet for the subject

of this letter I shall now trouble you with some of the things, which I

observed at _Cadiz_, _Messina_, and _Milo_, the three only places, where

we touched in our passage hither.

In _Cadiz_, as in most other parts of the Spanish dominions, there is

nothing very curious, but in their churches or convents; and this, when

once seen, is to be deplored, rather than admired. For when you first

come into the town, you are not so much struck with a face of religion,

as with the notion of a certain politic game, where the priests are

soon discovered to be the only winners. Since in the whole place there

is nothing fat and well favoured, but the clergy. The rest of the

inhabitants appear meagre, wan, and melancholy, being mostly employed

either in repairing to mass, or returning from it; sometimes counting

their beads, and at other times perhaps lugging an heavy Saint in their

arms. And therefore, were they not supported under this condition by a

certain natural pride, which is fed partly with the real history of their

former state, and partly with a romantic imagination of their present

grandeur; they would soon become so sensible of their slavish poverty and

superstition, as either to break their own hearts, or that yoke, which

oppresses them.

There are several religious houses in this city, one of Franciscans,

another of Dominicans, a third of Augustins, and a fourth of Capuchins;

besides some nunneries, and a fifth convent called the _Mercy_, being

founded for the redemption of Christian slaves. There is likewise an

hospital, named the _Hospital of St. John of God_; where we saw a large

and decent infirmary for sick and wounded persons, whether natives or

foreigners. There is nothing much remarkable in these places, besides the

altar pieces of their chapels, which are every where gaudily and richly

furnished; but those particularly of the cathedral church, and Dominican

convent, are adorned with tables of wrought and massy silver. On the

walls is seen abundance of painting and imagery, the device of which is

for the most part offensive, or ridiculous. An instance of the latter was

the picture of _St. Michael_, with a pair of scales in his hand, weighing

the merits of departed saints: of the former, the pourtraiture of _God

the Father_, in the shape of an _old man_; with many other blasphemous

representations of the _Trinity_. Either in their vestries, or their

chapels, there is commonly the _Saint_ of their order pourtrayed at

large, in a gaudy habit, and inclosed in a case of glass. Other lesser

images of Saints they expose in holes of the wall, where it faces the

town; and to these the devouter part of the people pay their several

occasional oraisons, as they pass the streets. This large multitude of

altars and saints, which every where appears at _Cadiz_, could not but

remind me of what the priestess in _Petronius_ sais: _Utique nostra regio

tam praesentibus plena est numinibus, ut facilius possis deum, quam

hominem invenire_[144]. But not to tire your patience with the many odd

pieces of superstition, which occur in every corner of the city, I shall

give you a relish of the whole in the two following instances.

The first of these is a specious inscription over the entrance to a

private house, occasion by the following accident. In a late solemn

procession upon _Corpus Christi_ day there happened a storm of rain,

which was in danger of offering some disrespect to the host; and

therefore they thought convenient to give it shelter in the next house,

they could step into. Among these zealous people this was construed such

a blessing to the man and his family, that the house is ever since looked

upon as sacred; and the owner has been at a considerable charge to erect

a pair of marble pillars at the entrance into his porch, adorned with

carving, and inscribed after this magnificent manner: “That in the year

1692, _Innocent_ XII being Pope, _Charles_ II King of Spain, _Buzzia_

Bishop of Cadiz, and _Don Velasco_ governor of the same Herculean city.”

_Cum arca vera, panem angelicum carnem factum continens, triumphali

processionis pompa, die festo_ Dominici Corporis _deduceretur, et,

saeviente turbine, irreverentiae periculum immineret; harum aedium

dominus_, Didacus de Barias, _exivit obviam absconditae majestati, et

fidei Centurionis aemulus procidit, indignum se profitens, cujus tectum_

Dominus _subiret, eumque honorifice in oratorio suo suscipere meruit.

Quare, Deo favente, sacra catholica majestas cooperari volens domui

huic praeeminentiae praerogativam concessit, etc._ This accident has

rendred _Didacus de Barias_ a meer Saint, and his house a most inviolable

sanctuary, in the esteem of the poor Spaniards. Tho our English merchants

well know him to be a rank Jew, who being therefore liable to death by

the law of Spain, was always forced to live under disguise, and now

gladly embraced this opportunity of passing for a zealot. The Jews indeed

have formerly been very insolent in Spain. One of the last instances

of which was a certain indignity of a shoemaker, who buried a crucifix

under the place, where his customers tried on their shoes, that by this

stratagem he might oblige Christians to stamp upon the cross. But this

nation being since banished that kingdom under the pain of the severest

death, they, who still covertly remain so, are obliged to profess

themselves of the popish faith, which they can do without any great

regret; it being easy to be of two religions, where both consist only in

external show and ceremonies.

The other memorable piece of superstition is to be observed in the

convent of the Capuchin friery, who within these three years have

acquired an extraordinary esteem, by means of a certain lady, who

acknowledged herself cured of a dangerous malady by virtue of their

intercession. This was an hint, which they thought very improvable;

and have therefore since set up for such a stock of merit, that their

cloister is already filled with waxen figures of legs, arms, heads,

women’s breasts, and other offerings, of so many maimed and distempered

persons, whom these Saints have restored by their peculiar interest

in heaven. One particularly, who was indebted to them for a more than

ordinary blessing, has erected a stately monument on that account, before

the entrance into their convent. It is an handsome Ionic pillar, made

of white marble, inrailed with a large square of stone, in the front of

which is a crucifix, and an image of the _Virgin_, under the title of

the _Triumphant Lady_. And this new figure is already become such an

idol, that the zealous gossips of the town will often approach it upon

their knees, at near the distance of a furlong.

Having been detained about a week at _Cadiz_, we set sail October 11,

1699, and by the favour of a fortunate west wind were advanced within

nine days near the entrance of the _Faro_ of _Messina_; where we lay

becalmed two or three days, under the island of _Stromboli_, as after

our departure from _Messina_ we did likewise under mount _Aetna_. Each

of these was an opportunity of entertaining our sight with the dreadful

curiosity of those burning mountains; where we observed the _crater_ of

both to cast up a continued pillar of smoke, and at repeated distances

a terrible red blaze of fire. Afterwards being favoured with a gentle

gale, a pilot came from the city to steer us thro the difficult strait

of _Scylla_ and _Charybdis_. Here I was curious to observe the situation

of these places, especially because the latter is used in a confused

and uncertain sense in classic authors. But upon a diligent view of the

place it self, and a companion of some clear expressions in antiquity,

the best judgment I could form of it was this, which follows. In

_Thucydides_[145], and other good historians, _Charybdis_ signifies

the whole strait betwixt _Sicily_ and _Calabria_; but in _Homer_[146],

_Virgil_[147], and other poets, it is restrained to that peculiar

whirlpool, which flows under the opposite rock of _Scylla_. Betwixt these

two we found the current so various, that our ship was obliged to stand

five or six different ways in a few minutes sailing; and at the same time

it was surprizing to hear the waves bubble in a continued hideous noise,

well expressed in the poets by the barking of dogs round the bowels of

_Scylla_.

As we lay at anchor at _Messina_, we were presented with a delightful

landskip, which the narrow winding of the _Faro_, the verdure of the

opposite shores, the wall, the citadel, and town itself afforded. The

front of the whole city is one continued pile of buildings, extending

three quarters of a mile in length, from the Viceroy’s house to that

called the _French bastion_. It intirely consists of free stone,

being raised four story high, adorned with carved windows, balconies,

battlements, and other ornaments, all answering to each other with an

exact regularity. No house has any doors to the sea, but the entrance

is at large gates, which front so many streets of the city, placed at

equal distances, and each of them inscribed with some religious device.

This range is contrived, as for ornament, so likewise for defence; it

being at the bottom of a prodigious thickness, so as to withstand a

siege, and decreasing proportionably towards the top. The whole running

in a bend, which is every where equidistant from the sea, represents a

curvilineal amphitheatre. The inner part of the city does not answer to

this magnificence of the front; tho there often occur many single pieces

of great art and curiosity. Such as the _King’s statue_ on horseback,

exactly resembling that of our late King _Charles_ at _Windsor_. The

_Statue_ of _Don John of Austria_, in memory of the victory obtained by

him at _Lepanto_ in 1571. The beautiful structure of a public _fountain_,

adorned at the bottom with four large and masterly figures, representing

_Nilus_, _Iberus_, _Tiber_, and _Euripus_. But more curious than the rest

is a figure of _Neptune_ on the mole, cast in solid brass, and attended

on each side with two very natural representations of the monsters

_Scylla_ and _Charybdis_.

But it was not so entertaining to observe these, as deplorable to see,

what St. _Paul_ bewailed at _Athens_, a city wholly given to idolatry

and superstition. It affords a melancholy consideration to any serious

spectator, to be witness to so many vain and hypocritical addresses made

to the images and altars, which abound in this deluded place. For this

brings the like scandal upon Christianity, as was so offensive under

the ranked heathenism, and too truly exposes the subjects of it to that

derision of _Lucretius_:

_Nec pietas ulla est velatum saepe videri_

_Vertier ad lapidem, et quascunque accedere ad aras_[148].

They are here furnished with nunneries and monasteries to the number

of sixty odd, most of which are loftily built, and add the greatest

grace to the structure of the city. In the college of _St. Nicholas_ I

observed the pictures of our five _Jesuits_, who were executed for the

popish plot, with a specious account when, and how, they were crowned

with martyrdom for the profession of the faith in _England_. In the

nunnery of _Sta. Maria della Scala_ they shew a stone sculpture of the

_Virgin_ and our _Savior_, which they verily beleive to have been taken

from the life. In the cathedral church there are twelve noble figures

of the _Apostles_, exquisitely carved in clear and costly marble. The

isle, which composes the body of the church, is ranged on each side with

thirteen stately pillars, twelve of which are antient of the Corinthian

order, brought formerly from a temple of _Neptune_, that stood near

the promontory _Pelórus_. There are here three gaudy altars, that want

nothing, which art or expence could contribute to adorn them; for below

they are set with work of _lapis lazuli_, and above are covered with

cupolas of true mosaic. But over the high altar, at the east end of the

cathedral, is preserved in golden characters, and embellished with a rich

variety of other ornaments, one of the greatest delusions in all popery.

It is a letter, which according to the tradition of this church was sent

to the _Messanians_ by the _B. Virgin_, upon their conversion by St.

_Paul_, soon after he touched at _Rhegium_. It is reasonably concise, and

therefore I shall venture to trouble you with the words, as faithfully

transcribed.

_Maria Virgo, Joachim filia, Dei humillima, Christi Iesu

crucifixi mater, ex tribu Juda, stirpe David, Messanensibus

omnibus salutem, et Dei Patris Omnipotentis benedictionem._

_VOS omnes fide magna legatos ac nuncios per publicum

documentum ad nos misisse constat. Filium nostrum, Dei

genitum, Deum et hominem esse fatemini, et in caelum post

suam resurrectionem ascendisse_, Pauli _Apostoli electi

praedicatione mediante, viam veritatis agnoscentes. Ob quod vos

et ipsam civitatem benedicimus, cujus perpetuam protectricem

nos esse volumus. Anno Filii nostri_ XLII. _Ind._ 1. 3 _nonas

Junii_. _Luna_ XXVII. V. _Ex_ Hierosolymis.

Maria Virgo.

_Quae supra hoc chirographum approbavit._

You see, that he, who had the impudence to forge this imposture, had

likewise the stupidity to date it by two _epochas_, the latter of which

did not commence before the reign of _Constantine the Great_, and the

former not till that of _Justinian_. The Hebrew original they confess

not to be now extant. And as to this, which they call the authentic

translation, it would be impossible to beleive them serious in venting

so foul a cheat; but that they pompously expose it to all the world in

their metropolitan church, and celebrate it by a yearly feast, and public

rejoicings of a whole month’s continuance; that it has been confirmed by

repeated indulgences from the court of _Rome_; and that at the west end

of the church there are divers solemn inscriptions, importing, that in

some general calamities of _Sicily_, there particularly specified, the

_Virgin_ still protected her _Messina_, according to her most faithful

promise in the _Holy Letter_. This naturally brings to one’s mind the

antient devotion of the same place towards _Ceres_ and _Proserpina_, as

mentioned by _Cicero_, when he says: _Vetus est haec opinio, quae constat

ex antiquissimis Graecorum literis et monumentis, insulam Siciliam totam

esse Cereri et Proserpinae consecratam. Hoc cum ceterae gentes sic

arbitrantur; tum ipsis Siculis tam persuasum est, ut animis eorum insitum

et innatum esse videatur_[149]. It is to be wondered at, that these

people have not yet registered an accident, of which as to the fact our

English merchants were eye witnesses, namely; that in the late repeated

earthquakes of _Sicily_ in 1693 the tower of this cathedral, which stands

at the west end distinct from the body of the church, was so distorted

by one shock, that it stood very dangerously in an oblique declining

posture; but that about a week afterwards another shock restored it to

its former true perpendicular situation.

After five days spent in viewing these and other curiosities of

_Messina_, we set sail the thirtieth of October, and by the ninth of

the next month were obliged by contrary winds to stand into the port of

_Milo_. This isle, known to the antients by the name of _Melos_, and

esteemed the largest of all the _Cyclades_, is deservedly famous for its

fair and commodious harbour; which entring at a narrow chanel afterwards

enlarges itself circularly into a lake, rather than a bay; being

always calm, and spatious enough to receive a fleet of an hundred and

fifty sail. I went ashore at this place with the greater satisfaction,

considering that among other antiquities it lays claim to _Socrates_ and

_Aristophanes_. It has a city of the same name, inhabited at present,

like the other islands of the _Archipelago_, chiefly by Greek Christians,

who have been burthened in the late war by a cruel tax of sixteen

thousand dollars to the Venetians, as well as to the Turks; but by the

benefit of the present peace, as its tribute to the former wholly ceases,

so that to the latter is much mitigated. It is observable, that in every

cultivated feild about the town, there stands a small Greek chapel,

constantly adorned with the painted images of the _Virgin_ and _St.

George_; and thither the zealous women of the place often retire with

a priest, to say some supererogatory masses for the benefit of their

private relations, whether dead or living. In a cave on the island there

is a natural hot bath, which has proved very successful in many malignant

maladies. Walking on the strand I observed another of the same nature,

like that of _Licinius Crassus_, mentioned by Pliny, _Lib._ xxxi. _cap._

2. The heat of this was so great, that I could not bear to keep my hand

in it. The same shore affords a vein of black sand, of which we there

gathered a quantity very clear and beautiful for the use of writing.

After a stop of four or five days at _Milo_, we had a very entertaining

passage thro the isles of the _Archipelago_, and on the nineteenth of

the same month arrived, by God’s providence, in good health at _Smyrna_;

where I often remember, how many ways I stand indebted to you, which will

be always gratefully acknowledged by,

_Reverend Sir_,

_Your_ etc.