TRAVELS IN TURKEY AND BACK TO ENGLAND.

An Account of a journey round the ancient _Ionia_, from _Smyrna_, thro

_St. George’s_, _Magnesia_, _Durguthli_, _Sardis_, _Birghée_, _Tyria_,

_Ephesus_, and back to _Smyrna_, in the year MDCXCIX.

April xxi.

Eight of our nation having lately designed a visit to the church of

_Ephesus_, by name, Messieurs Whalley, Dunster, Coventry, Ashe, Turner,

Clotterbooke, Frye, and Chishull, we had first a general meeting, to

agree upon what was requisite to the resolution we had taken; at which

time Mr. Whalley kindly undertaking the care of our provisions, and the

government of our intended journey, we propos’d to make a circuit of our

way to _Ephesus_, that so we might have a larger satisfaction in the

sight of those delightsome places, for which _Asia Minor_ was always so

justly celebrated.

In prosecution of this design we intended to make our first _conáck_ at

_Norlícui_, to which place having this morning dispatched our baggage

upon mules, under the care of a _janisary_ and two servants, we ourselves

set forward about three in the afternoon, with another _janisary_,

_dragoman_, servants, and other requisites. Our company completed the

number of twenty three light horse. Six or seven other gentlemen of the

English factory were pleased to accompany us as far as _Norlícui_, where

arriving in less than two hours, we all found a kind and hospitable

reception from Mr. Benjamin Jones and his lady. After a short repast our

freinds returned back to _Smyrna_, and left us employed in providing for

ourselves and horses. This care had now taken up the evening, when it

being proposed, that morning and evening prayers should be constantly

read to the company during the whole journey, we all readily embraced the

motion. Hereupon we immediately put this design in execution, and then

pitched upon our lodging.

April xxii.

This morning a quarter before five we leave _Norlícui_, and proceed on

_Magnesia_ road in our way to _St. George’s_ village, expecting to see

the ceremonies, which the Greek Christians there perform on the twenty

third instant, which is the festival of that saint. And having ascended

the top of the adjoining hill, we there make an halt for our mules,

and take that opportunity of looking back, and enjoying the delightful

prospect, which this place afforded us. We had then the gap of _Nymphe_

on our left hand, and village of _Palamútcui_ on our right, which is

pleasantly seated on an ascent, under a grove of pine trees; but before

us lay extended the whole plain between the hills of _Tartalée_[6] and

_Cordilíeu_, being terminated with the view of the _Two Brothers_[7], the

city, castle, and bay of _Smyrna_.

We continue our journey over the hill, till arriving at an old burying

place, we begin to descend by a paved way to a large and high bridge of

stone, built over a small, but clear and purling river. From hence we

pass on to the groves of _Jacácui_, which is a village seated on the

right hand upon an ascending ground, and fronting the edge of _Tartalée_.

Here we again halted, and drank a dish of coffee, partly to wait for

our mules, and partly to entertain ourselves with a view of the plain of

_Nymphe_, into which we had a narrow prospect between the forementioned

village and the ridge of the opposite mountain. After this we ascend

a tedious and craggy hill, with which tho we were now considerably

fatigued, yet we had still courage enough to reject the proposal, which

was there made, of baiting, and taking the advantage of a fair commodious

fountain, which flows on our right hand from the top of the hill. We

therefore proceed about the space of an hour in tolerable good way, till

at the descent of the mountain we encounter a rugged and uneasy passage;

the road being either choaked up with loose stones, or else worn into

abrupt and descending steps. This obliged us to dismount, and lead our

horses down the precipice; where we nevertheless received some little

satisfaction, in observing the veins of red and white marble, with

which each side of this troublesome way is garnished. At the foot of

the hill we cross a rivulet, and quickly after repassing the same, ride

from thence strait forward in a covert and narrow bottom, which in less

than half an hour leads us into the plains of _Magnesia_. After a short

repast in this place we mount our horses, turning to the left out of the

road of _Magnesia_; and tho we were now not more than half an hour from

our intended _conáck_, yet we ride on by mistake too much to the right

hand; till, having advanced beyond the town and castle of _Magnesia_,

we come to a Turkish village, where we were directed almost back again

to _St. George’s_. Here we arrived about one a clock, and made it our

first business to pitch our tent for the use of our servants, whilst

we ourselves were received into a little house, which afforded us the

convenience of one chamber, and a _sophá_, for lodging.

After diner we took a walk about the village, and visited the low humble

church, which is here permitted to the Greek Christians. It has outwardly

the marks of no inconsiderable antiquity, and within it is the exact

model of the primitive Greek churches; consisting first of the πρόναος

or _outward chapel_, then the νάος or _body of the church_, with three

passages from the one into the other, and after all a chancel separate

from the nave by lattice work. We here observed no other ornaments,

than the pictures of _St. George_, the _Virgin Mary_, _St. John_, and

_St. Nicholas_, and another of our _Savior_ on the roof of the church,

which consists of a regular cupola. Before the altar lay the book of the

_Gospels_, with three or four copies of divine service; some containing

their ordinary _Liturgy_, and others adapted to peculiar months of the

year. The Greeks were now flocking hither to perform their devotions

before the picture of _St. George_; and the superstition of a woman was

remarkable, who prostrated her little infant at the feet of the saint,

and eagerly stroking the picture endeavoured to convey some hidden

blessing to the body of the child.

April xxiii.

This morning we mounted about nine a clock, when the Greeks were

preparing for the ceremony of the day. It was pleasant to see them flock

together to the number of some thousands, being of different sex, age,

and quality; but all equally regardless of the dirt and rain, which then

fell very plentifully. We followed them on horseback a little mile out

of the village to a large turpentine tree, under the shade and covert

of which they had placed the saints, which we had before observed in

the church; and there celebrated their mass. This was no other, than

what is ordinary in the rites of the Greek church; except only, that

it seemed to have some particular reference to _St. George_. It may be

here proper to observe, that as the priest made two elevations of the

elements, the one before, and the other after consecration; the people

equally adored them at the former, as well as at the latter[8]. Before

the consecration of the wine was completed, the priest mingled a little

warm water in the cup, and afterwards put the μαργαρίτης, or _consecrated

bread_, therein. All which he, and the deacon who assisted him, received;

and after the whole ceremony one of his assistants distributed two

loaves of unconsecrated bread[9] in little peices to the people, which

they received with as much hurry as superstition. The congregation now

break up, and carry back their saints in a tumultuous manner, one still

endeavouring to catch them from another; while he that carries them, runs

with what speed he can, and often strikes his head with the board, on

which they are painted, as a voluntary penance for his sins.

This ceremony ended, we turned aside to satisfy our curiosity with the

sight of the famous river _Hermus_, which flows scarce two bow’s shot

below the turpentine tree mentioned above. This large and noble river

yeilds an entertaining sight, especially when it abates something of

its usual fulness. It appears graced on each side with a sandy shelving

bank. The neighbouring pastures afford abundance of tamarisk, and on the

edge of the river asparagus is very plentiful. It may be observed, that

as the poets of old called it the _golden_[10], so the Turks at present

call it the _silver streamed Hermus_; either of which names it seems to

deserve from that bright and shining sand, which its water washes. But

though the sand be clear, yet the water is still thick and muddy[11], and

well answers some epithets of that nature, which are bestowed upon it in

ancient poetry.

It was now past midday, when we return to the village, and after the

refreshment of a diner prepare for our departure towards _Magnesia_. Our

way thither lay through the same plain, into which we entered yesterday

at one a clock; where the beauty and verdure of this campain countrey

made amends for the great rain, which annoyed us all this day, as well at

the Greek ceremony, as now in our way to _Magnesia_.

In two hours from _St. George’s_ we begin to enter _Magnesia_, not

without a just admiration of its delicious situation at the foot of

mount _Sipylus_; from whence it was antiently called _Magnesia ad

Sipylum_, to distinguish it from that other, which stood near the river

_Meander_[12]. Having rode into the city, we began to be in distress for

an house to receive us; for an uncertain recommendation, which we had

hitherto over credulously relied on, we now found to have miscarried.

This was observed by an _effendi_, who saw us pass under his window, and

therefore courteously acquainted us by his servant, that if we wanted

accommodations, we might be welcome to his house. We gladly embraced the

motion, and were conducted into a garden, where we were afforded the use

of a pleasure house, consisting of a large _sophá_ room, a kitchen, and

an open _kiosk_, with a beautiful fountain in the middle. The _effendi_

himself came down, and welcomed us to our apartment, adding withall,

that if we had any other freind to rely upon, he would not deprive us of

a better entertainment; if not, he bid us freely make use of what this

place afforded. Returning to his house he presented us with a lamb, and

desired to know, if there was any thing else, with which he was capable

of obliging us. By our _dragoman_ he likewise informed us, that the

_cadí_ of the city was at that time making him a visit, before whom it

might not be improper for us to shew ourselves; but at the same time

not to come empty handed. According to this motion we waited upon the

_cadí_ with two _okes_ of sugar, and as many of coffee. He received us

and our present very obligingly; and upon the _effendi’s_ invitation, we

there drank a dish of coffee in the company of several Turks, who seemed

to be of the better rank, and behaved themselves gentilely, that is,

according to the genius of this haughty people, with an agreable mixture

of civility and reservedness.

This ceremony performed, we returned to our garden, and there entertained

ourselves at supper with just and grateful reflections on the great

courtesy and hospitality of our landlord, whole name we had now learnt

to be _Mahomet effendi_. His habitation is very pleasant, yet not so

much for the splendid furniture of his house, as for that various and

diverting prospect, which it commands over the plain of _Hermus_; though

indeed this is an advantage, which by reason of the ascending situation

of _Magnesia_ is common to the meanest cottage in the city. It seemed

strange to us to observe several pieces of painted glass in the windows

of our _effendi’s_ house, inscribed in Turkish characters with the name

of the proprietor, together with some religious sentences of Mahometan

devotion. But we were much more surprized, when we were informed, that

it was the manufacture of this place; for it is stained with a beautiful

as well as deep and durable colour, and comes up to the perfection of

the best, we have seen in England. This gave us occasion to reflect on

the different fortune of arts and sciences, which, like men, seem to

take delight in shifting their station; for while other arts have now

left these places, and traveled westward, this alone in exchange for all

the rest seems to have retired into this, and is deplored as lost in

Christendom.

April xxiv.

We propose to spend this day at _Magnesia_, in order to observe what may

further occur there remarkable. To this end we were favoured with the

company of a _janisary_ by one _Mahmút agá_, to whom this morning we

made a short visit; he being the person, to whom at first we expected

to have been recommended. The _janisary_ conducted us to the two

principal _mosques_ of the city, to a religious college of _dervíses_,

to a madhouse, and to an old _seraglio_, where the young princes of

the Ottoman empire have formerly been educated. At the last of these

there remain only the reliques of two or three rich _tiváns_, and a

considerable number of stately old cypress trees, to witness the former

grandeur of the place. At the madhouse we could observe nothing besides

the bare walls of that hospital, and a brass mortar lying in the yard,

which seemed to be remarkable for an old Latin inscription, which it

bore, signifying that _it was made at Pisa_. The religious college is a

fair stone building, consisting of one quadrangle, and that encompassed

with a regular cloister, which is supported with pillars of the modern

Greek module. The two _mosques_, which we mentioned, are distinguished

from the rest, in that they are of royal foundation, an honour which is

signified by the two _minarées_ belonging to them; whereas the other

eighteen, with which this city is furnished, have but one a piece. Before

each of these _mosques_ there is a square and regular area, containing

a beautiful fountain in the middle, and enclosed on three sides with

cells of religious Turks. The front of the _mosque_ makes the fourth side

of the square, and is itself likewise adorned with a spacious portico

supported with stately pillars, of which some only are topt with modern

capitals. But as the capitals of the rest are of the old Corinthian

order, so all the shafts appear plainly to be ancient; some consisting of

natural and others of cast artificial marble, but both the one and the

other bound near the pedestal with rings of massy brass.

Before we could be admitted into the inside, we were obliged to comply

with the zeal of the Turks, who always leave their shoes at the entrance

of their _mosques_. Here we found them both much resembling one another,

excepting that one was richer than the other; and whereas the roof of

the other consisted of five cupolas, the roof of this was regularly

contracted into one. We had now the liberty to view several copies of

their _Alcoran_, and other books of Mahometan prayers, all curiously

written and adorned with golden figures. The windows are furnished with

excellent painted glass, full of flower work and religious inscriptions;

and from the roof hangs a multitude of lamps, together with bright balls

contrived to reflect the light, all of them well ranged in a beautiful

and artificial manner.

In each of the royal _mosques_ we further observed a splendid _kiblé_,

which is a part separate from the body of the _mosque_, and answering

to the altar of our Christian churches; it is adorned with a rich floor

and gilded roof, together with carving and mosaic work on each side,

but more particularly in the front, which is contrived to face _Mecca_.

Immediately to the right hand of the _kiblé_ stands a lofty pulpit, being

fourteen steps high, and consisting of a portal, rails, and canopy, all

of wrought marble. One thing was remarkable as well in these _mosques_,

as in that which we afterwards saw at _Ephesus_, though we know not

whether it has any mystical reference to the Turkish superstition; it

is a nich in the front of the _kiblé_, on each side of which stands a

fine slender pillar, hewn out of one entire stone, made without capital

or pedestal, but so fixed within the work both above and below, that it

remains moveable, and is turned about by the hand at pleasure.

This sight of _Magnesia_ was our employment before diner, but in the

afternoon we all attempted to ascend the castle hill on foot; which we

quickly found to be a more difficult and painful task, than we at first

imagined. The way was inexpressibly steep and craggy, and cost us an

hour’s labour, though we made all possible speed; nor after our return

could we blame the discretion of one of our companions, who thought

fit to retire about the midway. However having at length conquered the

ascent, our toil was well rewarded with the surprizing prospect of the

city, and adjacent plain; in the latter of which we could distinguish the

whole course of the _Hermus_ for many miles together, as also the places

where the _Amnis Phrygius_, or _Hyllus_, joins it[13].

The fabric of the whole castle is very strong, and the advantage of

a hill, which is on all sides a mile high, must have rendered it

impregnable, in an age which knew not the use of gunpowder. It was

formerly fortified with a considerable number of great guns, which are

now removed to the new castle, which defends the bay of _Smyrna_. Two

only remain on a bastion, that fronts the city; on both which we were

sorry to see the eagles of the Roman empire. No other apartment of the

castle is now kept locked, except a dungeon, in which there were twelve

prisoners, lately sent thither by _Osmánogli_. A sight of these miserable

wretches we desired of the _agá_, nor was he so scrupulous as to deny it

us. The same _agá_ likewise shewed us within the precincts of the castle

a poor Christian church, dedicated to the memory of _St. John_; where the

Greeks meet upon the day of his feast, and are at the constant charge of

two lamps, which burn there throughout the year. We had read and heard

of a collection of Roman arms, reserved somewhere in this castle; tho

being upon the place, nothing of this nature occurred to us. But _Solymán

effendi_, a most courteous and obliging person, whom we visited this

evening, as being the next neighbour, as well as brother of our landlord,

assured us, that having many years since had the curiosity to ascend the

castle hill, he then saw under ground the collection which we spake of,

consisting of headpieces, breastplates, shields, and the like.

The mountainous parts about _Magnesia_ were antiently famous for the

production of the loadstone[14]; tho indeed it is disparaged by

_Pliny_[15], and accounted less attractive, than that of other places.

However this probably was the city, from whence, as _Lucretius_ says,

that stone took the name of _magnet_[16]; as from the whole country of

_Lydia_ the touchstone likewise was called _lapis Lydius_[17]. This hint

gave us the curiosity to carry a sea compass up the castle hill, where we

had the satisfaction to see it point to different quarters, as we then

placed it upon different stones, and quickly after intirely to lose its

whole virtue; two effects which are natural to the magnetic needle, when

injured by the nearness of other bodies impregnated with the same quality.

Late in the evening we were now preparing for repose, and endeavouring

to forget the fatigue of the castle hill; when _Solymán effendi_, having

laid aside the badges of his character, and put on a more familiar

temper, returned our visit. We doubted not from the change of his habit,

and the unseasonableness of the hour, but he came to break a Mahometan

commandment, and _steal his kief_ (as the Turks pleasantly express it) in

the juice of the forbidden grape[18]. This was a tedious and ungrateful

task, with which nevertheless, by reason of his own and his brother’s

great civility, some of our company were forced to comply. Nor had the

wine he freely drank its desired effect, till towards two a clock in the

morning.

April xxv.

We begin to rise by five this morning, and after dispatching our

baggage take leave of _Mahomet effendi_, to whose singular humanity and

hospitality we had hitherto been so much obliged. As we were riding

thro the city, it was pleasant to recollect something of the ancient

history of this place, whose present state we had seen the day before.

It there occurred to us, that this was that _Magnesia_, which of all the

Asian cities[19] made the first submission to the Roman arms, after the

defeat of _Antiochus_ by _Scipio_. This likewise was that _Magnesia_,

which entered into a league offensive and defensive with the city of

_Smyrna_ in the reign of _Seleucus_ son of _Antiochus Theus_, whereby

the inhabitants of the one were mutually made free of the other city;

and whereas public monuments of this confederacy were by agreement of

both parties to be erected in different places, one of them, which was

set up by the _Smyrneans_, is now to be seen in the gallery at _Oxford_,

inscribed on a large flat marble pillar[20].

There now scarce occur any reliques of antiquity in _Magnesia_, except

that we observed several Ionic and Corinthian pillars in the court of

an old _mosque_, held in great veneration by the Turks for the burial

of _Hasánogli_, a person famous in the history of that nation. Over

one of the entrances into the same court there is to be seen a broken

inscription of an antient heathen temple, tho too high to be now legible;

and on a stone step, placed before the principal _mosque_ of the city,

we could read among other decayed words ΚΑΙΣΑΡΙ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩ. The following

inscription likewise is of no contemptible antiquity, which we found on a

stone now lying in the staircase of the abovementioned _Solymán effendi_.

ΣΤΑΤΙΩ ΚΩΔΡΑΤΩ ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΩ[21] ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΣ ΔΙΟ-

ΓΝΙΤΟΥ ΕΠΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕ ΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΕΑΥΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙΣ

ΙΔΙΟΙΣ ΕΚΓΟΝΟΙΣ ΜΗΔΕΝΙ ΔΕ ΕΞΕΣΤΩ ΑΠΑΛΛΟΤΡΙΩΣΑΙ

ΑΥΤΟ ΕΚ ΤΟΥ ΓΕΝΟΥΣ ΜΟΥ ΕΑΝ ΔΕ ΤΙΣ ΑΠΑΛΛΟΤΡΙΩΣΗ

ΥΠΕΥΘΥΝΟΣ ΕΣΤΩ ΕΙΣ ΤΟΝ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΦΙΣΚΟΝ Χ. Ρ. ϛ.

The said _effendi_ not only civilly informed us of this stone, but

when we had transcribed the words, he profered to send it after us to

_Smyrna_; adding, that if it was any piece of sanctity, he was unwilling

it should remain there to be trampled under foot.

Designing from hence for _Durguthli_, we continue our journey under

the foot of _Sipylus_, which about two hours from the city ends in a

stupendous precipice, consisting of a naked massy stone, and rising

perpendicularly almost a furlong high. It was not a little surprizing,

as we rode along under the foot of this hill, to observe a certain cliff

of the rock, representing an exact nich and statue, with the due shape

and proportion of an human body. For _Sipylus_ being the seat of the

transformation of the unhappy _Niobe_[22], there was ground of imagining,

that we had either met with her statue, or with that which was the first

occasion of the fable; at least it was not improbable, that this was the

work of some antient inhabitants of this place, who pleased themselves

in fashioning the natural rock into such a figure, as might preserve the

tradition of this celebrated poetic fiction.

Not far from hence we begin to leave the mountain on our right hand,

having the stream of the _Hermus_ in view on the left; and at a large

distance before us the snowy top of the mountain _Tmolus_. Our road now

lay thro a verdant and delightful plain, inriched by many advantages

of nature, and not negligently manured by the inhabitants. About the

fourth hour of this day’s journey we passed a bridge, erected over a

large river; which, as those of the country informed us, is now called

_Niphti_, or _Nymphe_, and may probably be the _Cryos_ mentioned by

_Pliny_, as one of the streams that feed the _Hermus_[23]. From

this bridge the road lies thro a less fertile plain, till within

the neighbourhood of _Durguthli_ it is again better cultivated, and

appropriated to the production of cottons. Near our entrance into the

town we cross a broad and sandy chanel, which in the winter season

conveys no inconsiderable current into the _Hermus_. We had here no other

to rely upon, than the accommodations of a public _kane_, where, after we

had fixed our lodgings, we found that we had arrived in six hours from

_Magnesia_; tho an hour is to be deducted for the rests, which we were

obliged to make for the security of our mules.

_Durguthli_ is a town purely of Turkish fabric, and therefore has nothing

to entertain the curiosity of any traveler, besides the management

of cotton wool; which is here prepared in great abundance, and so

transmitted to the market of _Smyrna_. As to this we observed, that they

first sift it from the dust and other refuse, which it contracts in

gathering, in a large wicker wheel; after this they separate the wool

from the cod, in which it grows; and at last they work it betwixt a

wooden and iron roller, which spinning upon one another in a rapid motion

draw in the wool, and leave the seed behind.

Walking up and down about the limits of our _kane_, we were accosted

by a Turk, who spake good Italian. He had been many years a slave in

_Legorn_, where he was a witness to the riches and splendor of Italy,

and other parts of Christendom. This gave him occasion to express a

just indignation against the haughty ignorance of the Turks; who, tho

they want all advantages of art, and appearance of true magnificence,

yet have the vanity to despise other nations, who enjoy both to a great

perfection. In other discourse with an Armenian priest we were informed

of a church, which by a peculiar grant of the _Grand Signior_ that nation

had newly founded in _Durguthli_. This was an instance, which seemed to

us observable; for tho Christianity is tolerated in Turkey, yet they

hold it inconsistent with their law to permit the erection of any new

churches, and allow only the liberty of repairing old ones.

We parted in the close of the evening, and repaired in good health to

our respective lodgings. But about two in the morning one of our company

awaked under an indisposition, which by degrees grew into a severe

and dangerous sickness; tho by timely opening a vein, and after that

enjoying a little repose, he recovered to the great satisfaction of the

whole company. However this discouraged us from proceeding, till another

night’s rest should confirm his health. Being thus detained a day at

_Durguthli_, we were informed of some antiquities to be seen among the

Armenian graves, on a mount adjoining to the town; whither when we had

repaired, we found a curious piece of _basso relievo_, brought, as they

said, from _Sardis_. But no ancient inscriptions appeared there, except

these imperfect words on a marble tombstone.

.. ΥΡΗΛΙΩ ΚΟΤΤ ... Μ ... ΣΑ ΑΛΕΞΙΝΟΟΥ ... Ω ΕΚΤ .

ΔΙΑΤΑΓΗΣ ..... ΚΑΡΜΟΥ ΤΩ ΙΔΙΩ ΦΙΛΩ ... ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΗ

April xxvii.

Rising early this morning all of us, God be thanked, in perfect health,

we still resolve to enlarge our circuit; whence Mr. Coventry and Mr. Frye

apprehending too long a journey, determined to return to _Smyrna_. The

remaining part of our company proceed by break of day in the road for

_Sardis_. Just before we arrive at the fountain on our right hand, about

half an hour from our _conáck_, lies the village of _Ishmaeljá_. And in

an hour and an half from thence we observe _Urgánlui_ on the left. We

continue our journey thro a spatious and fertile plain, curiously beset

on each side the road with variety of round hillocks, which from their

number, figure, and situation, in so level a campain, appear plainly to

be artificial. They are undoubtedly the work of one or more numerous

armies; but whether they were at first designed to bury their heaps of

slain[24] (which was the original of those barrows[25], that occur in

many plains of England) or whether they were erected as thrones before

the pavilion of the general, which was usual in the Roman camp[26], is

not easy to determine.

About the fourth hour crossing a small river we have the village of

_Baricle_ on the left hand, and larger than that, the village of

_Achmetléer_ on the right. Not far from hence the road divides into two

paths for _Sardis_. The lower of these we chose, tho declining a little

too much to the left hand, and so passing by a few cottages, which are

called by the name of _Zericle_, we arrive in seven hours at _Sardis_,

one of which is now likewise to be deducted for the stay, which our mules

occasioned.

Instead of that _Sardis_, which antiently was the seat of the kings of

_Lydia_, afterwards in great renown, under the Persian, Grecian, and

Roman Empires, and at last honoured with the title of a Metropolitan

Christian church; we now find in the same place, at the foot of mount

_Tmolus_, a small Turkish village by the name of _Sart_. We here had

the liberty of a ruinous inconvenient _kane_, erected in this place for

the service of _caraváns_ from Persia; but we much rather embraced the

opportunity of pitching our tents under the covert of a few plane trees,

which spread a cool and grateful shade upon the bank of _Pactólus_. This

river is constantly mentioned as rising in _Tmolus_, and washing the

Walls of _Sardis_, particularly it is said by _Herodotus_ to run thro

the very market place of the ancient city[27]. Its chanel does not now

appear to be considerable, yet it deserved our particular notice for the

fame of its golden streams; a story celebrated not more by poets[28] than

historians, the latter of whom have imagined this to be the treasure,

whence _Croesus_ and his ancestors collected that mighty wealth.

Before the cool of the evening we visited the ruins of this once

flourishing city; and towards the western part observed the standing

walls of two or three spatious and lofty rooms, not unworthy the palace

of the ancient kings of _Lydia_. They were all arched towards the

foundation, and adorned as well as strengthened at each corner with hewn

stone; but the main part of the fabric consisted of a broad and durable

brick, which is likewise observable in most of the ancient ruins of

_Asia Minor_. From hence we passed thro heaps of rubbish, and tracks of

continued foundations, to the eastern part of the city; where stand the

pillars and front of another spatious building, the figure and situation

of which persuaded us, that they were the remains of the cathedral

church. A little southerly from hence we viewed the full extent of

another stately room, which however antient it might be, was nevertheless

raised out of ruins more antient than itself; as appeared from several

rich pillars, and architraves, confusedly placed among the rubbish of

the walls. About the distance of a furlong, full south of the antient

city, are to be seen the beautiful remains not of an amphitheatre, as

has been supposed, but rather of some royal palace. Here we observed six

lofty Ionic pillars, all of them still intire, except that the capital

of one is distorted by an earthquake. There adjoins to them a fair and

magnificent portal, the pilasters of which, being about twenty feet

high, and twelve feet distant from each other, are joined at the top by

one entire stone, which, by what art or force it was there erected, is

difficult to conceive; for tho _Pliny_[29] pretends to account for the

like difficulty in the architecture of the temple of _Ephesus_, yet that

passage gives but little satisfaction in the matter. There occurs nothing

else, that is remarkable about _Sardis_, besides the broken walls of the

castle on an adjoining hill; the ascent and prospect of which, however

magnified by Sir _Paul Rycaut_, we yet thought so inferior, to what we

lately had found at _Magnesia_, that it could not raise our curiosity

to undertake the climbing of that precipice, especially since we could

promise ourselves the same prospect to a greater advantage from the top

of _Tmolus_; and as for two or three broken inscriptions, which are

there extant, we were content to peruse them in Dr. _Smith’s_ printed

_Journal_[30].

April xxviii.

We had now determined our course for _Birghée_, towards which our way

lay over the mountain _Tmolus_. In pursuance of this design we mounted

quickly after three this morning, and by that time it was full day

we had ascended the first edge of the hill, where we halted to enjoy

the entertaining prospect of the plain of _Sardis_. We had here the

opportunity of viewing the castle hill, the antient seat of the city, the

whole course of the _Hermus_[31], and the full extent of the _Gygaean

lake_, about five miles in length, and three in breadth, mentioned in

all ancient accounts of _Sardis_; but what renders it most remarkable,

celebrated of old by _Homer_[32], and well described by _Strabo_ to

be about forty furlongs from the city[33]. This sight had now highly

satisfied our curiosity, when we turn to the right hand more into the

body of the hill, and contrary to our expectation rarely encounter any

difficult ascent, by reason of the artificial windings of the way.

_Tmolus_ is in general so pleasant, that it was easy to conceive ourselves

in a theatre, where the scene changes every half hour; for sometimes we

were surprized with an impending rock, sometimes with a perpendicular

precipice, and sometimes with the murmurs of a falling brook; the whole

being curiously garnished with trees, shrubs, and herbs of an infinite

variety.

In four hours we had at length conquered the highest eminence of the

mountain, whence we continue our journey thro a fruitful vale, enclosed

on each side with two lofty ridges of the hill. On each of these remains

a large quantity of snow, which, as it gradually melts, supplies a rapid

current, that descends hence into _Pactólus_. It was observable, that

the air of the whole vale was chilled to that degree by the neighbouring

snows, that it was still winter in this place; nor could we here discern

any buds or leaves on the same sorts of trees, which we had seen green

and flourishing on the kinder parts of the mountain.

This cool and refreshing vale lasted an hour, after which we begin to

descend the hill by a more steep and dangerous way, than we before had

mounted; but nothing was more disagreable, than so sensible a change

of air, which we now experienced, being as it were at once translated

out of the frigid into the torrid zone. Such was the difference betwixt

the valley we had left, and the southern part of the hill we were now

traveling. This heat being added to the laborious and tedious circuits,

without which the descent was absolutely impossible, brought us at length

by one of the clock almost half dead to _Birghée_. Nor were we capable of

being refreshed, either with the remembrance of that pleasant mountain,

we had passed; or with the view of the _Caýstrian_ plain, which we had

then before us.

The rich products of mount _Tmolus_ ought not here to be forgot[34],

which nature has furnished with that store and variety of plants, that it

may deservedly be termed the _physic garden_ of the universe. The valley,

which we mentioned, is enriched with a vein of marble, clear and pellucid

enough to contend with alabaster. Nor is it to be neglected, that on

the southern descent of the hill we traveled over a continued track of

stone, adorned with bright and shining particles resembling gold dust;

the occasion most probably of so many splendid epithets, which in antient

poetry are bestowed on the _Pactólus_.

_Birghée_ is a fair and considerable Turkish town, adorned with two very

handsome _mosques_; and pleasantly seated in the road from _Sardis_, at

the opposite foot of _Tmolus_. This makes it probable, it was the

_Hypaepae_ of the antients, that situation exactly answering to the

description, which _Ovid_ and _Strabo_ have left us of it[35]. We

were here received into a public _kane_, where we enjoyed an hearty

and entire repose; tho sweetened rather by the fatigue of the foregoing

day, than any entertainment or accommodation of the place.

April xxix.

We continued our journey by four a clock this morning thro the

_Caýstrian_ plain for _Tyria_, and had the satisfaction of fording that

celebrated river about three hours from our _conáck_. Not far from hence

we found a stone bridge of three considerable arches, built directly

along the bank of the river; and therefore now serving to no other

purpose, but only to witness that the stream had changed its chanel. Our

way lay from hence near the course of the _Caýster_, thro a fertile and

well cultivated champain; a place inexpressibly delicious, and which can

be equalled by nothing, but the sweetness of that immortal verse:

Ἀσίῳ ἐν λειμῶνι Καϋστρίου ἀμφὶ ῥέεθρα. Iliad. β′. ℣. 461.

Or those of _Virgil_:

_Pelagi volucres, et quae Asia circum_

_Dulcibus in stagnis rimantur prata Cäystri._ Georg. i. 384.

It is inhabited by frequent villages, and enclosed on both sides with two

high and snowy mountains, namely _Tmolus_ on the right hand, and on the

left what _Strabo_ calls Μεσογειότης[36], or the _Midland hills_.

Soon after eleven a clock we arrived at _Tyria_, and _conácked_ in an

old, dirty, ruinous _kane_; having by this time learnt, that the weary

and thirsty traveler must repine at no reception, which he meets with in

Turkey. _Tyria_ yeilds a pleasant prospect, as we ride into the city,

gently ascending from the adjacent plain. The buildings are curiously

intermixt with trees and gardens, which extend the circuit of the place;

tho the number of its houses seems inferior to that of _Smyrna_. We

counted about fourteen _mosques_, one of which we observed to be royal,

that is, adorned with a double _minarée_. Having entered the town we

found the streets negligently kept, and meanly built; but at the same

time populous enough, not without the appearance of a considerable trade.

It is to be wondered that so large a city, standing in the very heart of

Asia, should have no remains of antiquity[37]. There are indeed two Greek

churches in the place, where the poor ignorant priests would persuade

both themselves and us, that this was the antient _Thyatira_; but we

thought it not fit to rob them of the satisfaction of this error, nor

puzzle them with any accounts of antient geography, or late experience,

that evince the contrary.

It is pretended in some journals, that two or three valuable inscriptions

are to be found in these churches, tho we were now eye witnesses of

the contrary; for there occur’d nothing in that, which they call the

Metropolitan church, but a defaced monument, whereon no intelligible

words were to be read, except ΧΡΗΣΤΕ ΧΑΙΡΕ. Over the entrance of the

other there is a piece of devotion, written in modern characters: but

more remarkable, in the body of the wall stands a large image of our

_Savior_, elegantly carved in porphyry; tho it now appears rudely

mangled, and seems to have felt the fury of the old angry _iconoclastae_.

In the hand is portrayed an open book, inscribed with this sentence

out of _St. John’s_ Gospel, viii. 12. Ἐγώ εἰμι τὸ φῶς τοῦ κόσμου. This

was an instance, which may perhaps appear to be singular, at least

it is contrary to the general practice, as well as persuasion of the

Greek church; for tho they have a superstitious fondness for religious

pictures, yet they abhor all imagery in _relievo_, and look upon it as

inclining to heathenism and idolatry.

April xxx.

By six this morning we set forward from _Tyria_ in our way for _Ephesus_,

and passing thro the extreme skirt of the city, we observe the

inscription of an ancient stone coffin, now converted by the Turks to

supply the use of a cistern. It has been defaced towards the upper parts

of the chest, and permitted us to read only these following words:

....... Η ΣΟΡΟΣ .......... ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΩ ......

.... ΟΥΔΕΝΙ ..... Ε ..... ΑΙ .... ΜΕΤΑ .....

ΚΟΜΙΣ ... ΜΑ .. ΕΝ .. ΤΟ .. ΤΟΛΜΗΣΑΣ ΤΙ ΤΟΙΟΥ-

ΤΟ ΤΙΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΙΕΡΩΤΑΤΩ ΤΑΜΕΙΩ 𐆖. Β. Φ. ΚΗΔΟΝ-

ΤΑΙ ΔΕ ΤΗΣ ΣΟΡΟΥ ΙΟΥΝΙΟΣ ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΟΤΑ-

ΜΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΚΛΗΡΟΝΟΜΟΙ ΑΥΤΩΝ ΖΩΣΙΝ ΤΑΥΤΗΣ ΕΠΙ-

ΓΡΑΦΗΣ ΑΝΤΙΓΡΑΦΟΝ ΑΝΕΤΕΘΗ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΕΝ ΕΦΕΣΩ

ΑΡΧΕΙΟΝ

Upon the borders of the road, about a mile from _Tyria_, there stands

a commodious fountain, and adjoining thereto a pleasant country house;

where, as we staid to drink, an hospitable old Turk offered us the

entertainment of the place. We were then obliged to refuse the favour,

but not without a fresh regret at the inconveniency of our last night’s

lodging, when we might have easily passed on to this advantagous _conáck_.

We hence travel some hours in a narrow and almost deserted vale, the

_Caýster_ still flowing on our right hand; till about one a clock we

draw near to the extreme edge of the _Alymán_, a large mountain lying

betwixt the city of _Ephesus_ and the village of _Giamobasy_, and here

ending in an abrupt precipice; on the top of which stands an old castle

now converted, as is said, into a college of _dervíses_. Near this

place the _Caýster_ mingles with a large and muddy lake, which most

probably was the _Stagnum Pegasaeum_, mentioned by _Pliny_[38], as having

communication with this river. The _Alymán_ we take to be the _Mons

Gallesius_ of the antients[39]; since the _Mimas_[40], for which some

have lately mistaken it, is the highest part of _Erythréa_, or that cape

land, which encloses the bay of _Smyrna_.

We now thought it more advisable not to reach _Ephesus_ till the cool

of the morning, but to pass this evening at _Kirkingécui_, a Christian

village, lying near two hours to the east of the city. In search of this

place our guide unfortunately led us to the left of the above mentioned

lake, up a steep craggy and almost impassible mountain; which when with

great difficulty we had conquered, and descended in a way almost as

tedious on the other side, we were acquainted by a traveler, that we

were out of our road either to _Ephesus_ or _Kirkingécui_. This struck a

damp upon our spirits, being now obliged to tread back so many unwelcome

steps in the heat of the day, despair of all present refreshment, and

fearful apprehensions of the miscarriage of our mules. It was therefore

voted necessary to hire the above mentioned traveler to conduct us to our

village, who accordingly led us by a long and tedious way almost under

the castle of _Ephesus_. But from hence we had an hour and an half of

pleasant and diverting riding, betwixt two shelving hills, watered at

the bottom with a purling brook; whilst on each side we were entertained

with a shady scene of bays, myrtle, oleander, Spanish broom, the plane

tree, Judas tree, the strawberry tree, lilach tree, and a multitude of

other delightful greens. The frequent stops and misfortunes of this

day’s journey had made it almost eight a clock, when we arrived at

_Kirkingécui_; where to our incredible satisfaction we found our tents

already pitched by our muliteers, who by an unknown and unbeaten path,

over two or three mountains, had at last fallen upon the village, more by

good fortune than any conduct of their own.

May i. 1699.

The village of _Kirkingécui_ is intirely Christian, and supposed to be

the miserable remains of the church of _Ephesus_. The παπᾶς, or _priest_,

here pretended to shew us a venerable manuscript of the _Evangelists_,

wrote, as he said, by _Prochorus_, one of the _seven deacons_, mentioned

in the _Acts of the Apostles_[41]. Upon inspection the character indeed

appeared antient, and possibly may be that of the sixth or seventh

century; but the book itself is nothing else but a _Lectionarium_, or

_Copy of the Gospels_, so portioned into lessons, according to the ritual

of the Greek church, that, begining at _St. John_ on Easter day, the

four _Evangelists_ are read out by the return of the year. The sight of

that manuscript, and of the small parish church, was the business of

this morning; after which we descended by the same pleasant road, which

we had traveled last night, and so arriving about ten a clock we take

possession of the public _kane_ at _Ephesus_[42].

The once glorious and renowned _Ephesus_ was seated in a fruitful vale,

encompassed almost round with mountains[43], at a small distance from the

_Caýster_, and about five miles eastward from cape _Trogilium_; where, at

the common charge of all _Ionia_, the _Panionia_, or _common councils of

Ionia_, were formerly celebrated. This vale rises advantagously in the

middle with two or three little hills[44], on which the several parts of

the antient city lay extended. The same spot of ground is still covered

with the rich remains of its former glory. Such are the massy walls, the

portals, the arches, the aqueducts, the marble chests, together with the

dejected cornishes, shafts, and capitals of many lofty pillars. But the

face of the whole yeilds a melancholy and disagreable prospect, being

overrun with an incredible quantity of rank and luxuriant weeds, which

serve only to corrupt the air, and to conceal the curiosities of the

place. This we found to be a disadvantagous circumstance, and such as

doubled the labour of this day in compassing the circuit of the city,

and tracing the uncertain footsteps of so many valuable antiquities. But

because these cannot so intelligibly be represented in the order, in

which we viewed them, we shall methodically consider _Ephesus_, as lying

in three distinct ruins of a Turkish, Christian, and Heathen city.

The freshest ruins of this place appear to be Turkish, and such as

witness, that it has been in considerable repute even under its last

barbarous conqueror; who also has changed the name of _Ephesus_ into that

of _Aiasalúck_. Here are to be seen the remains of five or six _mosques_,

besides one which is still used for Mahometan service. In several

places there occur the walls of ruined bagnios, tho they are incredibly

increased by the fabulous Turks, and reported to have been here to the

number of three hundred and sixty six. But that, which most plainly

evidences the late riches of the place, are the many beautiful monuments,

which we viewed among their burying places, most of them inscribed with

fair Turkish characters. Tis observable, that these are cut rising

from the plane of the stone, and not indented within the surface; which

is the constant fashion of the Turks in all their public monuments, in

opposition to the custom of other times and nations. It is not certain,

whether the new castle, which stands to the northward of the old citadel,

be of Grecian or Turkish fabric; however it is still kept in repair by

the Turks, and filled within the circuit of the walls with fifty or sixty

small cottages, which with two or three scattering tenements are the only

habitations of the present _Ephesus_.

For such monuments of Christianity, as are here visited by travelers,

we are beholden to the tradition of the neighbouring Christians; who

shew the place of _St. Mark’s_ and _St. Paul’s_ church, together with

the standing walls of that dedicated to _St. John_; which last apostle,

returning from his banishment in _Patmos_ upon the death of _Domitian_,

lived, and died, and was interred at _Ephesus_[45]. The church of _St.

John_, tho still entire, is however miserably transformed, and converted

into the profane use of a Turkish _mosque_. Like all other _mosques_ of

the better fashion, it has a square and spacious yard on the north side,

with three different entrances belonging to it. Those to the east and

west are reasonably well beautified, being adorned above the portals

with curious Turkish sculptures, and materials of rich polished marble.

From this yard we enter the _mosque_ by five wooden doors, all of which

are carved to an exquisite perfection. Within appear a splendid pulpit

and _kiblé_, both consisting of wrought marble, and the latter more

particularly imbellished with painting and gilding of great art and

variety. But what are most justly admired and celebrated by all, who

have traveled hither, are the four pillars of granate marble, standing

in a right line from east to west, and supporting two cupolas, that

compose the roof. They are so far disproportioned, that the least is

almost three, and the biggest near four feet diameter; besides which

the pedestals of some are quite covered with the floor, and all besides

one, which is of the compound order, have lost their antient capitals.

All these are circumstances, which unanswerably demonstrate, that these

pillars are now transported from their first places. And in truth, when

the whole fabric is diligently compared with all other Turkish _mosques_,

and this consideration further added, that there appears no sign of

an altar to the east, or door to the west end; it will be more than

probable, that nothing but the southern wall can be the remains of a

Christian church. About a mile to the south west of this place, and in

the midst of the antient city, stands an high wall, and adjoining thereto

a stately gatehouse, in which are these words, most curiously engraven:

.... ACCENSO ....

.... RENSI ET ASIAE ...

Together with this imperfect inscription are to be seen the defaced

figure of a man on horseback, and another of a serpent twisted round a

tree. This is by most adjudged to be a Christian ruin; and indeed if we

consider its beauty and grandeur, as it can be no very modern building,

so by reason of its misplaced carvings and inverted inscriptions it

cannot be very antient; but may conveniently be refered to those

times, in which Christianity began to flourish here. And after this

there will be room to put in another conjecture, and to guess from the

stateliness of the fabric, that it might be the place, where that famous

general council of almost two hundred bishops condemned the heresy

of _Nestorius_, in the year four hundred thirty one; tho his errors

are still living among the Indians and Chaldeans, two sects which are

numerous in the eastern parts of _Asia_[46]. Those other Christian

monuments, which are commonly shewn at _Ephesus_, are merely fabulous;

and serve only to cheat and abuse the curiosity of many travelers, who

undergo no little pains and difficulty in coming hither. Such are the

_cave of the seven sleepers_; the _font_, in which _St. John_ is said to

have baptized so many primitive Christians; and a square watch tower,

which ordinarily goes by the name of _St. Paul’s prison_. This last

stands upon a small hill, about a mile nearer the sea, than was the

_temple of Diana_; and is indeed worth visiting by those, who have not

so much superstition or credulity; for its situation gives a commanding

prospect over the stream of the _Caýster_, which here seems to rival the

_Maeander_, and plays with many wanton windings in the adjoining plain.

The chief heathen antiquities, that are to be seen at _Ephesus_, are

the remainder of the _old citadel_, and the foundation of the _temple

of Diana_. The former of these is an intire gate, with two broken walls

adjoining on each side, which being situated on a convenient ascent,

towards the north east of the ancient city, most probably was a sort

or citadel, that defended it on that quarter. This gatehouse has the

marks of considerable antiquity, tho it has been rebuilt from other more

antient ruins; as is evident from some misplaced stones, and broken

reversed inscriptions, that occur in the work. Among these are viewed

with great satisfaction three flat marble stones, curiously cut in _basso

relievo_; which tho of different design, and unequal breadth, are placed

in a line to adorn the arch of the gate.

The first of these marbles (reckoning from the left hand as we front

the gate) has been somewhat injured by time; but from the portraiture

of grapes and baskets, and four or five figures in gay and youthful

postures, it may be presumed to represent a _Bacchanal_.

The second marble is a military piece, consisting of many intire figures,

all cut in postures very bold and masterly, and such as undoubtedly are

the work of some noble hand. It designs a warlike horse surprized by

an enemy, with his rider lying at his feet; near which several persons

are carried captive by Roman soldiers. The chieftain stands by, and

is supplicated by a woman in a large loose mantle, whose intercession

seems to intercept the action. This has been by some refered to the

_destruction of Troy_, and by others to a Christian persecution; but with

greater probability it may be thought to represent the event of some

Roman victory.

The third marble is a sepulchral monument, and represents a dead person

extended, from his knees upwards, on a funeral bed; the chief mourner

sitting, and five other persons standing in a melancholy posture, and

lamenting over him. These likewise are very lively figures, and cut with

an inimitable perfection.

Of the _temple of Diana_ there are extant no considerable ruins, nor

any thing that is lofty and beautiful enough to bespeak it the remains

of that famous structure. But in a marshy ground, near the _Lacus

Selenusius_[47], betwixt the haven _Panórmus_[48] and the place of

the antient city, there stand two broken pieces of a massy wall, in

which both the present tradition, and accounts of antient geographers,

exactly conspire to prove them the small reliques of the temple. As

they themselves consist of square hewn stone, so they are surrounded

with heaps of the same materials, among which occur some lofty dejected

pillars of beautiful and splendid marble. Under the highest of these

ruinous walls there descends an artificial passage, which after two

or three short turnings proceeds in a straight line thro many narrow

rooms and alleys. This, tho dark and noisome, is customarily visited by

travelers, with the assistance of a candle and clue of thread; and is

called, by we know not what fancy, the _labyrinth of Diana’s temple_. But

as we observed the like under several large structures, some at _Sardis_,

and others at this very place; so it is notorious, that this is but the

ordinary method of strengthening any great foundation, and securing the

building by subterraneous arches. Returning from this cavity the traveler

has nothing else in view, but venerable heaps of rubbish, and uncertain

traces of foundations; and must be forced to supply his curiosity with

considering, that this was the place, where once stood and flourished

that renowned wonder of the world.

The first temple had been burnt on the same night, in which _Alexander

the Great_ was born; and this second was then rebuilding, when that

prince was residing at _Ephesus_, and pursuing his conquests in _Asia

Minor_. He contributed sumptuously to the expence, and afterwards

proposed to reimburse the whole, if the Ephesians would consent to

inscribe his name upon the fabric[49]. But those citizens had an ambition

equal to that of Alexander, and therefore diverted his desires by a

fulsom compliment, and the dedication of a famous picture; which was

Alexander himself armed with thunder, designed by the inimitable Apelles,

and valued at twenty talents of gold[50]. _Pliny_ has likewise told us,

that this temple was adorned with an hundred and twenty seven pillars,

each sixty feet high, thirty six of which were carved, and that by the

celebrated hand of _Scopas_. The whole structure was four hundred and

twenty five feet in length, and two hundred and twenty feet in breadth;

and was founded in this watry ground, out of a vain hope to secure it by

that means against time and earthquakes.

These are the most remarkable curiosities either of Turkish, Christian,

or Heathen antiquity, which in the space of this afternoon we observed at

_Ephesus_. Besides which we viewed many intire pillars of an aqueduct,

that passes over the plain from the southern hills; as also in two places

the uncertain footsteps of a theatre; and without the new castle a full

face[51], with two serpents (cut on a stone) whose heads meet over it,

and their bodies descend on each side. This monument is supposed to

represent _Diana_, in the two characters of _Luna_ and _Proserpine_.

But it is to be wished, that some curious traveler might remain two or

three days at _Ephesus_; during which time by removing the weeds, and

clearing the confused ruins, he might possibly discover many valuable

inscriptions; as by the benefit of a ladder he might take one or two from

the wall above mentioned under the Christian ruins, which to our great

dissatisfaction we found not legible from the ground.

Among the few imperfect inscriptions discoverable in so short a stay,

the name of P. VEDIVS ABOSCANTVS, with mention of his wife and daughter,

is once or twice repeated both in Greek and Latin. And ΑΤΤΙΚΟΝ ΗΡΩΔΗΝ,

or the name of that ingenious Roman, whose part is so entertaining in

the _Noctes Atticae_ of _Gellius_, is preserved on a fragment among the

pillars of the aqueduct. In the same place is frequent mention of _M.

Antoninus_, once particularly on occasion of an honour done by the city

to his daughter _Fadilla_.

ΦΑΔΙΛΛΑΝ ΘΥΓΑΤΕΡΑ Μ. ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΥ ΑΝΤΩΝΕΙΝΟΥ

ΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΥ[52]

This distich likewise on the castle gate is remarkable for the word

_Ptelea_, an old name of _Ephesus_, which occurs in it.

ΤΟΥΤΟΝ ΟΝ ΕΙΣΟΡΑΑΣ ΤΥΠΟΝ ΟΡΘΙΟΝ ΑΝΤΩΝΙΝΟΥ

ΔΩΡΟΘΕΟΣ ΠΤΕΛΕΗ ΘΗΚΑΤΟ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΜΕΝΟΝ

An invaluable inscription this, if the thing, to which it relates, had

been found with it; for it seems to imply the hiding of a medal under the

stone, which bore the inscription, that so, when time should destroy the

building, the emperor’s face might be communicated to posterity.

Our way did not lead us by the aqueduct six miles from the city, in which

is to be seen that large Latin and Greek inscription, printed in Sir

George Wheler’s _Travels_[53]. Nor did we find those imperfect lines,

which he took from a stone half buried in the ground[54]. But there is

this perfect inscription on a stone near the gate of the old citadel,

with which we shall here finish our account of _Ephesus_.

Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΕΤΕΙΜΗΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΝ ΑΙΛΙΟΝ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΝ

ΑΠΟΛΛΟΔΩΡΟΝ ΑΣΠΕΝΔΙΟΝ ΦΙΛΟΛΟΓΟΝ ΤΟ ΔΕ ΜΝΗ-

ΜΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΤΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΣ ΑΙΛΙΟΣ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΣ

ΖΩΙΛΟΣ Ο ΑΔΕΛΦΟΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΖΗ

May ii.

It was a rainy and tempestuous morning, when, as we lay yet a sleep

in the public _kane_, a terrible clap of thunder discharged itself

seemingly in the very room. The vehemence of the noise awakened us in

great astonishment; and our eyes were no sooner opened, but the whole

place seemed to be filled with a red blaze of fire. Each person was

first solicitous for the safety of his companions, and afterwards for

that of the horses, which were dispersed in their stations about the

door. But finding that we had received no detriment, either in our goods

or persons, we blessed God for our deliverance; and concluded by an

infallible argument, that the displosion must needs be extremely near us,

in that the light continued for some time after the sound.

We mount by six a clock, and now determine our return to _Smyrna_; to

which there lies a straight tho difficult and craggy road, over the top

of the _Alymán_; upon which account we thought it preferable to take the

way of the plains. This first led us over the bridge of the _Caýster_,

and then quickly after round the abrupt precipice of the _Alymán_, and

that old castle upon its edge, which we had before so much in view, as

we rode from _Tyria_. From hence we pass thro a variety of low woods

and pastures, which in themselves were pleasant and diverting; tho the

fountains being all dry about this quarter, we were much distressed for

want of water. About four hours and a quarter from _Ephesus_ we descry

on our left hand, on the rising of the hill, the deplorable remainder of

the castle of _Metropolis_; and at the foot thereof such apparent traces

of foundations, with variety of hewn marble, as permitted us no longer

to doubt concerning the place of that waste city. And it may be added,

that computing our way by hours, as _Strabo_ does by furlongs[55], we did

not greatly differ from his account, who places it at little more than a

third part of the distance betwixt _Ephesus_ and _Smyrna_. Not far from

hence we begin to approach a small, tho not shallow river, runing on our

right hand, which probably is the _Phyrites_ of _Pliny_[56] mingling,

as he describes it, with the _Caýster_, not far from the _Stagnum

Pegasaeum_, or that lake, which we before observed in our way from

_Tyria_ to _Ephesus_. Beyond this river we saw a large extended pasture,

overspread with the flocks, herds, and tents of _Turcmen_. They had here

pitched their station to the number of fourteen hundred; for as we staid

to taste their milk, and to view their habitations, they themselves gave

us this account, reckoning about two hundred tents, and seven persons

more or less appertaining to each. As the whole race of the Turks were

nothing else but a numerous colony, that swarmed from _Scythia_; so these

_Turcmen_ seem to be the peculiar descendants of the _Nomades Scythae_,

or _Shepherd Scythians_, and like them make it their employment to breed

and nurture cattle. To this end they never assemble in towns, or betake

themselves to houses; but flit from place to place, as the season of the

year directs, and seize without control the vast neglected pastures of

this desert empire.

In two hours and three quarters from _Metropolis_ we arrive at _Trianta_,

a small but pleasant village, seated on a dry soil, and enjoying a very

healthful air; where we proposed to _conáck_ this evening. An _agá_ here

hospitably accommodated us with the convenience of his country house, and

likewise treated us with a small collation after the Turkish fashion.

May iii.

By seven a clock we leave _Trianta_, crossing a little river within the

limits of the village, and at an hour’s distance another of the same

bigness; one or both of which, as they unite in the bottom of the plain,

must be the antient _Halésus_, that ran into the sea at _Colophon_. We

continue in a large and beaten road, leaving _Giamóbashy_ on our left

hand, till having _Sedícui_ now in view, we cross over a watry bottom

to shorten our way thither. Here we arrive about ten a clock, and stop

to refresh ourselves in the consul’s country house; where after a long

disuse of chairs, which are not the fashion of the Turks, we once more

had the pleasure of sitting down to diner.

Having mounted soon after three, the worshipful consul Raye, with

several gentlemen of our nation, did us the honour to meet us about

two miles distance from the village. On these therefore we waited home

the remainder of our way, and so returned before six a clock in good

health to _Smyrna_; having been much obliged to Mr. Whalley for his

care and conduct, as well as mutually to one another for that chearful

and unanimous temper, which sweetened all our travels, and deceived the

several fatigues of this laborious journey.

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

An Account of a voyage from _Smyrna_ to _Constantinople_, and a journey

back from thence to _Smyrna_, in the year MDCCI.

March xxvi.

This day I took my passage for _Constantinople_ on board the _King

William_ galley, captain Nehemiah Winter commander, and accordingly went

on board at six a clock in the evening; being favoured with the company

of Mr. Dunster, Mr. Turner, and Mr. Clotterbooke, who after a short

repast returned a shore. On the same ship imbarked for _Constantinople_

the _barút agá_ of _Smyrna_, with his _harém_, and a numerous family.

March xxvii.

We set sail this morning with a gentle gale, which served us as far as

_St. George’s_ island, that lies before the harbour of _Fochia Vecchia_,

that is _Phocaea_; betwixt which and the sand head, occasioned by the

discharge of the river _Hermus_, we came to an anchor at the approach of

the evening.

March xxviii.

We set sail early this morning with little or no wind, the whole day

continuing calm till towards the evening; when the gale began to grow

fresh, and favouring us all night advanced us betwixt the main land of

_Aeolia_ and the island of _Mitylene_, or _Lesbos_, leaving the bay of

_Cuma_, now called _Sotaléa_, upon our right hand.

March xxix.

This morning with a contrary and very gentle gale we turn betwixt the

island and the main, having a fair view of the harbour, city, and castle

of _Mitylene_[57]; the last of which seems to be large and well walled,

declining with a moderate descent on the side of a gentle hill. The

same coast of the island is stored with many pleasant and considerable

villages, well furnished with arable and pasture ground, and large woods

at a distance, said to abound with deer. This day we advanced no farther

than the isles of _Musconisia_, formerly _Arginusae_[58], situated

betwixt the continent of _Aeolia_ and the island of _Mitylene_. Here

therefore we came to anchor about midday, lying opposite to the mouth

of the _Idaean_ or _Adramyttian_ gulph, made by the two promontories of

_Cana_ on one side, and _Lecton_ on the other, and fenced towards the

continent of _Troas_ (for so that whole region may be called) with the

snowy and aspiring top of mount _Ida_.

March xxx.

This morning the wind springing fair about four a clock, we advance

betwixt the island of _Mitylene_ and the main of _Aeolia_, the narrowed

_bogáz_ is made by cape _Siguri_, antiently _Sigrium_, on the island

side, and cape _Babá_, formerly _Lecton_, on that of the main. Near

midday we begin to turn this latter cape, and thereby to gain the sight

of _Imbros_ and _Tenedos_; _Lemnos_ not discovering itself till some

hours afterwards, as we advanced with calm weather betwixt _Tenedos_ and

the _Trojan_ shore; when the low land of _Lemnos_, with the round and

exalted top of _Athos_ on the other side of it, gave us a delightful

prospect.

March xxxi.

This day turning to windward, we advance by nine a clock between the town

of _Tenedos_ and the _Trojan_ shore, the narrow distance of about six

or seven miles allowing us a distinct prospect of each. _Tenedos_ is a

middle sized compact town, fortified with a castle, seated immediately on

the shore, and fenced toward the land with a round hill; but exposed to

the sea without the advantage of any deep gulph, or commodious harbour.

The whole island is green and level, and has the appearance, as well as

reputation, of a rich and fertile soil. The wind not favouring us from

hence, we proceed slowly the whole day with calm and serene weather;

and turning betwixt _Tenedos_ and the _Phrygian_ continent, after

enjoying the delightful sight of the _Trojan_ campain on one side, and of

_Tenedos_, _Imbros_, and _Samothracia_ on the other, we anchored about

six in the evening under the celebrated promontory of _Sigéum_.

April i.

Early in the morning we endeavour to make sail from _Sigéum_, but being

taken in a dead calm, we were employed the whole day in warping, that so

passing the mouth of the _Hellespont_ we might lie (if occasion should so

require) sheltered by the new castle, and the point on which it stands.

Having with great fatigue made two or three warps, the wind at length

favoured us so far, as to advance us two leagues within the said new

castle of _Natolia_, when the captain thought it better to anchor, than

to proceed in so narrow a chanel and so dark a night.

At this place it will be most proper to set down my thoughts of _Troy_,

and the whole _Trojan_ shore, which for the space of three days I viewed

at a convenient distance in calm and serene weather from the poop of the

ship, feeding my eyes and mind with an eager and boundless curiosity.

That, which in a large sense was called of old by _Strabo_, as at present

by the modern Greeks, the campain of _Troas_, begins at the promontory

of _Lecton_, and then fronting the isle of _Tenedos_ ends in a delicious

green and level country, as far as the strait of the _Hellespont_. But

from the begining of this strait we sail by the main of that, which is

properly to be called the campain of _Troy_. And because our modern

travelers give a wild and indistinct account of this famous place, I

shall endeavour to describe the bounds, and situation of it, in as clear

and distinct terms as possible.

From cape _Sigéum_ (whence antiently was computed the entrance of the

_Hellespont_) you sail about five miles, till you come opposite to the

mouth of the _Scamander_; and from thence about two miles farther to a

small prominence of land, by the antients called _Rhoetéum_. Betwixt this

_Rhoetéum_ and _Sigéum_, the marine, which bent in an even uninterrupted

semicircle, afforded a commodious station for the Grecian fleet[59].

But as _Strabo_ well observes, that in his time the _Scamander_ began to

interrupt this station, by the sand it discharges on the shore; so it has

since gained more considerably on the sea, and formed that whole tongue

of land, on which is now built the new castle of _Natolia_. However in

the days of _Priam_ the shore was undoubtedly more regular, as well as

more retired. And opposite thereto in the adjoining continent, at such a

distance as would admit the engagements, the flights, the pursuits, and

the encampments of each army (as they are all described by _Homer_) we

are to conceive of the walls and buildings of antient _Troy_. But still

we must be cautious of pointing out, and distinguishing the very place;

since in the reign of _Tiberius Caesar_ we are assured by _Strabo_, that

there remained not the least footstep of antient _Troy_ to satisfy the

curiosity of the most searching traveler[60]. So vain are the accounts

of our modern _journalists_, who pretend to have seen the walls, the

gates, or other ruins of _Troy_; that, which now remains, being nothing

but the rubbish of new _Ilium_, or of that city once attempted there by

_Constantine_.

April ii.

We endeavour this morning to continue our voyage, but make no

considerable progress; because the gentle gale, that favoured us, could

not prevail against the current of the _Hellespont_, which perpetually

flows with a full and rapid course into the _Aegéan_ sea. We therefore

drive back, and content ourselves with coming to an anchor in the same

place, from whence we weighed this morning; taking the opportunity of

going to dine on the Asian shore. After midday a fresher wind advanced us

within a small distance from the old castles; where it again deserted us,

and obliged us to drop anchor a second time, to maintain the way we had

gained in opposition to the violent stream of this chanel.

April iii.

We continue anchored at the same place, being all this day entirely

becalmed. And the day following, the calm having changed into a contrary

wind detained us still at the same anchor. But however disagreeable this

interruption in the course of our voyage might prove to some others of

the company, the leisure of those two days was to me very grateful.

Nor could I esteem it any loss of time, but rather an advantage, on

account of the favourable and unexpected opportunity it afforded me of

visiting two so famous castles, together with the villages adjoining to

them[61]. Going ashore therefore in the captain’s pinnace to the town

on the Asian side (formerly called _Abýdos_[62], but by the Turks _Eskí

Natolia Hisar_) with great pleasure I walked about the place, but found

no footsteps of antiquity[63]. The town is large, but mean; yet famous

for a curious sort of earthen ware finely glazed, which is made here, and

vended in great quantities. The castle is intire, of a square figure,

with bastions projecting at each corner, and with one side flanks the

water on a level shore; where are to be seen betwixt twenty and thirty

vast guns, such as perhaps are no where else to be found, except in

some other parts of Turkey. They are of brass, and have a bore at least

three quarters of a yard diameter; and are charged with stone bullets of

the same dimensions, which lie at hand spherically cut. The charge of

powder, as I was informed on the place by the _barút agá_ of _Smyrna_,

is an hundred and five _okes_. From _Abýdos_ I crossed over in a small

wherry to _Sestos_[64], that is, from _Natolia_ to _Rumeli Hisar_, and

in the way observed the art of the boatman in avoiding the force of the

current, a circumstance mentioned by _Strabo_[65]. This town stands on a

precipice, descending steeply towards the sea shore; and is better built,

tho less, than _Abýdos_. It has a castle consisting of a triangular

tower, enclosed within an high wall of this [Illustration] figure, and

that again with another triangular wall, all surrounded with a deep foss.

In the same level with the water are mounted about thirty guns, of the

same or rather bigger size than those of _Natolia Hisar_; and by each lie

great heaps of stones, cut spherically to the dimensions of each canon.

In relation to this town of _Sestos_, and the tower of _Leander_, once

adjoining to the shore a little above the town, I remembered that request

of _Musaeus_:

Σὺ δ’ εἴποτε κεῖθι περήσεις,

Δίζεό μοι τινὰ πύργον[66].

April v.

This morning a fresh wind favouring us at south west we set sail by six

a clock, and passing the forementioned castles, within a league on the

European shore, arrive at the town _Maitos_, antiently _Madytos_[67],

seated on a low land within a small recess of the sea, and inhabited

intirely by Greeks. The campain on each side is delightful to the

traveler, as well as fertile to the inhabitants; being for the most

part of a level situation, and in the neighbourhood of the villages it

possesses, well cultivated and distinguished into pastures. About three

leagues from _Maitos_ we view on the same shore two pleasant and well

situated villages, by the name of the _Lesser_ and _Greater Galata_.

Thence about the distance of two leagues we arrive betwixt _Lampsacus_

on the Asian, and _Callipolis_ on the European shore; the former a small

town, and the latter a city of no inconsiderable extent; so that now they

have changed their fortune, and that character, which they bore in the

time of _Strabo_[68]. About twelve leagues from _Callipolis_ lies the

island _Marmora_, exceeding high ground, abounding with rich veins of

durable and pretious marble; the same of which has given it the name of

_Marmora_, instead of the ancient _Proconésus_. Adjoining to this are two

lesser isles, _Kutali_ and _Alonia_, the latter eminent for the product

of excellent wines. Betwixt these islands and the beautiful Thracian

shore, which here graces the _Propontis_, we were advanced by a brisk and

favourable gale at the approach of the evening, and from thence are now

continuing our voyage, with the same auspicious wind, and hopes, if God

permit, to arrive at _Constantinople_ early by to morrow morning.

April vi.

Before ten last evening the wind having changed to our disadvantage, we

find ourselves this morning but little advanced from _Marmora_; however

by the benefit of turning to windward, we proceeded this day about the

distance of ten leagues. Every other tack brought us near to the Thracian

shore, and entertained us with a fair view of the most green and fertile

campain I ever yet beheld. By the same means we enjoyed the opportunity

of seeing the famous port and city of _Heracléa_, built behind a small

eminence, which protends itself into the sea, and forms an haven on each

side of the city. Not far from hence stands on the same shore the fair

town of _Selymbria_; near which the night now overtakes us, and deprives

us of that delicious prospect, which the whole day afforded us, of the

feilds of Thrace. It was on this day, that captain Winter wanting his log

line to be brought him from a chest in the great cabin, was not permitted

by the _barút agá_ to send any person down for it, by reason of his

_harém_ being there. At length he yeilded to let the captain’s son go, a

child of about eight years of age.

April vii.

Early this morning I betake myself to the enjoyment of the same diverting

prospect, whilst the ship, by the benefit of tacking, passes by _Grande_

and _Piccolo Ponte_; and so betwixt nine and ten of the clock comes to

an anchor within a short league of the _Seven Towers_, a castle which

forms the extreme point of _Constantinople_. Here we continued wind bound

the remainder of this day, because the narrowness of the chanel, into

which we were now to enter; and the force of the current, which runs very

rapidly out of the Thracian _Bosphorus_; did not suffer us to advance

against the violent north wind.

April viii.

This morning about nine a clock the wind, which changed nothing of its

point, yet abated so much of its strength, that it permitted us to turn

from the _Seven Towers_ along the bending walls of _Constantinople_, as

far as the _Seraglio point_. But the violence of the current prohibiting

us to make the harbour of _Galata_, the ship was again obliged to drop

anchor, and wait till she could either make sail with a fair wind, or

take the opportunity of a calm to be towed in by _hamáls_. We had not

long cast anchor, when my esteemed freind, Mr. Matthias Goodfellow, was

pleased to visit me on board the ship; and carrying me ashore in the

boat, which brought him, first introduced me to his excellency, the Lord

Paget, and then kindly allotted me a pleasant and convenient apartment in

his house at _Galata_.

April xiii.

This day I attended the funeral of Signior _Demetrasco_, chief _dragoman_

to the English ambassador, who tho by faith a Latin, yet by birth was

of the Greek nation. And accordingly in the way of burying proper to

this latter, I observed the manner of carrying the corps of the deceased

barefaced, clothed in his late usual habit, and supported by four of his

nearest relations; who were followed by women slaves, hired to make a

hideous pomp, by tearing their hair, extorting forced and counterfeit

tears, and repeating in a continual loud and frightful lamentation, ὦ

ἀφέντη μου; that is, _O my master!_

April xv.

I paid a visit to Signior _Rombarts_, a gentile and ingenious merchant

of the Dutch nation, at his house in _Curuchesmée_, a village on the

Thracian _Bosphorus_. Here I observed a _sophá_ room remarkably adorned

after the richest Turkish fashion, the roof formed into a cupola, and the

gilding and painting of the whole so splendidly curious, that it amounted

at first to the sum of four thousand _hungárs_, or two thousand pounds

sterling.

April xvii.

I took the opportunity of passing over the chanel to _Constantinople_, in

company of Signior _Wright_, the Dutch minister of this place, with whom

I visited the _mint_; the _Grand Signior’s_ lions; and the _mosques_ of

_Sultan Solymán_, _Sultan Bajazet_, _Sultan Achmét_, and the _Validée_.

That of _Bajazet_ and the _Validée_ are adorned only with two _minarées_,

that of _Solymán_ with four, and that of _Achmét_ with six. They all much

resemble one another, both in the inward and outward figure. They first

consist of a spatious court, enriched all round with fair and regular

cloisters formed by pillars, some of whose shafts are carved with white

marble, some with serpentine stone, and some with porphyry; but all

the capitals are of the modern Turkish figure. Next is the body of the

_mosque_, covered outwardly with domes, and supported inwardly with four

massy pillars, from the tops of which rises a regular cupola, forming

the roof of the whole _mosque_. Whoever exactly compares the beauty and

grandeur of these several _mosques_, will find that of _Solymán_ more

regular, and artificial in the outward frame; that of _Achmét_ more

magnificent in the whole, and on the outside more beautiful in the work

of the pillars; that of the _Validée_, tho less in bulk and extent than

the other two, yet more curious in the inward ornaments and workmanship

than either; and that of _Bajazet_, which is the oldest, inferior to

the rest both in bulk and beauty, except that some cast pillars, which

form the cloisters of the court, consist of a more polite, shining, and

pretious stone.

The same morning I visited the antient cirque of this city, a large

oblong space flanked on three sides with the houses of the city, and on

the fourth with the walls of the _mosque_ of _Sultan Achmét_. Therein

stand three pillars, the first of square stone, formerly covered with

gilded brass, at the end of the cirque, and supposed to have been the

goal of the _stadium_. It now declines much, having suffered greatly by

time, and openings in the several joints of the stones. The second pillar

is of wreathed brass, not above twelve feet high, lately terminated at

the top with figures of three serpents rising from the pillar, and with

their necks and heads forming a beautiful triangle. But this monument

was rudely broken from the top of the pillar by some attendants of the

late Polish ambassador, whose lodgings were appointed in this cirque,

opposite to the said pillar[69]. The third pillar is a long square stone,

or obelisk, decreasing gradually from its basis, till it ends almost in a

point. The matter is granate, or Theban marble; and each side is engraven

with birds, beasts, and other hieroglyphical figures[70]. This had once

lain upon the ground, and, as we may conceive from the inscriptions, a

considerable time; till _Theodosius_ erected it on a large and square

basis, adorned on each side with various images; and having fixt on the

top of this basis four brass supporters, on these he set the aforesaid

hieroglyphical Theban column. There is a Latin inscription on one side of

the basis, and a Greek one on the other, importing what I here mention

concerning the erection of the pillar. The Greek runs thus:

ΚΙΟΝΑ ΤΕΤΡΑΠΛΕΥΡΟΝ ΑΕΙ ΧΘΟΝΙ ΚΕΙΜΕΝΟΝ ΑΧΘΟϹ

ΜΟΥΝΟϹ ΑΝΑϹΤΗϹΑΙ ΘΕΥΔΟϹΙΟϹ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΥϹ

ΤΟΛΜΗϹΑϹ ΠΡΟΚΛΟϹ[71] ΕΠΕΚΕΚΛΕΤΟ ΚΑΙ ΤΟϹΟϹ ΕϹΤΗ

ΚΙΩΝ ΗΕΛΙΟΙϹ ΕΝ ΤΡΙΑΚΟΝΤΑ ΔΥΩ

The Latin thus:

DIFFICILIS QVONDAM DOMINIS PARERE SERENIS

IVSSVS ET EXTINCTIS PALMAM PORTARE TYRANNIS

OMNIA THEODOSIO CEDVNT SOBOLIQVE PERENNI[72]

TER DENIS SIC VICTVS EGO DOMITVSQVE DIEBVS[73]

The remaining verse, mentioned by Sir _George Sandys_, is now covered in

the ground[74].

April xxii.

This day having first visited Mr. _Schrever_ (then ill of the plague,

of which he died two days after) in a small boat of the countrey, in

company with Mr. Goodfellow and Mr. Evans, I made a tour up the Thracian

_Bosphorus_. This chanel we may conceive to begin from the point of

_Scutari_ on one side, and that of _Tophana_ on the other; from whence

in a winding figure, graced on each side with _seraglios_ of the chief

courtiers of this empire, and on the marine with almost continued

villages, as also two castles in the narrowest part, it extends about

eighteen or twenty miles, as far as the antient rocky isles of the

_Symplegades_, which seem to open and shut, as one advances to them in

the _Bosphorus_[75]. The largest of them is situated on the European

shore, and till lately bore an antient Corinthian pillar, to which a

vulgar error has given the name of _Pompey’s column_. It was erected not

on a regular basis of its own, but upon an antient heathen altar, that

now only remains; the shaft and capital of the pillar, which have lately

fallen, being yet visible in four pieces among the cliffs of the rock. On

the aforesaid remaining altar may be read this inscription in large Roman

letters.

DIVO CAESARI AUGVSTO

L. CL. ANNIDIVS

L. F. CLAV. FRONTO[76]

Returning from this pillar we stept on the adjoining shore, to see the

large and lofty lantern there erected for the direction of mariners at

the entrance of this difficult strait. About four miles from hence, in

returning thro the chanel, we go ashore on the European side to visit a

famous convent of Greek priests, by the name of _Mauromolos_, seated in

the cliff of an hill, and enjoying a beautiful church, adorned with many

rich pieces of religious furniture; as books bound in covers of massy

silver; an ἁγία πύλη, or _sacred curtain_[77], wrought both richly and

artfully in silk and golden figures; and a set of painting not of the

vulgar sort, but regular and proportionable, the most curious of which

was done in Muscovy. These fathers are exempted from their _harách_, on

account of a present of excellent fair cherries, once presented to the

_Grand Signior_. Over a fountain, that serves the convent with water,

they have this device, not more proper for the place, than ingenious for

the contrivance, in making the same words read forwards or backwards:

ΝΙΨΟΝ ΑΝΟΜΗΜΑΤΑ ΜΗ ΜΟΝΑΝ ΟΨΙΝ[78]

I was this day a witness of the strong current flowing towards the

_Propontis_ from the _Euxine_ sea, as I had before observed it to force

into the _Mediterranean_ from the ocean. Both which are taken notice of

by _Lucan_:

_Quaque fretum torrens Maeotidos egerit undas_

_Pontus, et Herculeis aufertur gloria metis,_

_Oceanumque negat solas admittere Gades[79]._

April xxvi.

This day I crossed the water from _Galata_ to visit the antient

_Chalcédon_, where I saw the poor Greek church dedicated to _St.

Euphemia_[80]; and a little distant from the present village, the place

where was held the fourth general council. Returning we row under the

shore, to see the _Grand Signior’s_ beautiful _seraglio_ near _Scutari_.

When _Chalcédon_ was an eminent city, which is now reduced to a slender

village; _Scutari_, which by a contrary event is at present a fair and

spatious city, was a poor and ignoble village, tho it then had the name

of _Chrysopolis_, as we find by _Zosimus_[81].

April xxviii.

I retired to _Belgrade_, a small Greek village, seated about twelve

miles from _Constantinople_, and about five from the _Euxine_ sea; where

the English ambassador has a countrey seat. It is pleasantly situated

among large woods of oak, beech, chesnut, and other trees, and enjoys an

healthy air and water. Here I took the opportunity of riding to visit the

famous aqueducts of _Constantinople_, distant from this village about

six miles, which were built by _Valentinian_ the first[82], _accurante

Clearcho praefecto_, as _Cassiodorus_ says[83]; and afterwards repaired

by _Solymán_ the _Magnificent_, who exempted twelve adjacent Greek

villages from the customary tribute of this empire, for the care he

enjoined them of keeping these aqueducts in repair. The most remarkable

of them are three great and lofty fabrics, built over so many valleys

betwixt the adjoining hills, of which the longest has many but less

arches, and may possibly be the entire work of _Solymán_. The other

two have the appearance of a more antient and regular architecture,

consisting of two rows of arches one over the other; and those of the

second row enclosed by pillars cut thro the middle, so as to render

the fabric both passable like a bridge, and useful for the conveyance

of water. The more considerable of these two consists only of four

large arches, each twenty yards long, and something above twenty high,

supported by octangular pillars of about fifty six yards in circumference

towards the bottom. The village of _Belgrade_ is likewise honoured with

two royal _kiosks_, the one of the _Grand Signior_, the other of the

_Validée_; each situated in two delightful recesses of the neighbouring

wood, and adorned with natural avenues thro lofty groves of beech, oak,

and chesnut. At each of these _kiosks_ the waters of the public aqueduct

are gathered into fair and ample cisterns of hewn stone, from whence they

pass in arched chanels under ground to the royal city.

May vii.

After a pleasant retirement of ten days at _Belgrade_ I returned to my

lodgings at _Galata_, to take the opportunity of seeing the remaining

curiosities of _Constantinople_.

May viii.

I walked almost thro the extent of the whole city to visit the famous

pillar of _Arcadius_, a lofty and aspiring fabric, of the Doric order,

built with a wonderful regularity and exactness of architecture, bearing

on the basis, and on the whole shaft from top to bottom, various warlike

figures of men in arms, chariots, galleys, and other ornaments, which

in a spiral manner encircle the whole pillar; every figure being so

well proportioned to the distance, from whence it is seen, that those

at the top, the middle, and the bottom, appear to the eye exactly of

the same size. Returning from this pillar I passed by the old pillar of

_Aurátbasar_, defaced by the several conflagrations of the city, and

bound in several places with rings of iron by the care and charge of the

emperor _Manuel_, as is witnessed by this inscription on the top.

ΤΟ ΘΕΙΟΝ ΕΡΓΟΝ ΕΝΘΑΔΕ ΦΘΑΡΕΝ ΧΡΟΝΩ

ΚΑΙΝΟΙ ΜΑΝΟΥΗΛ ΕΥϹΕΒΗϹ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΩΡ

From this pillar I was desirous of passing thro _Atmeidan_, that is the

_hippodromus_, or _cirque_ above mentioned, to review the _mosque_ of

_Sultan Achmét_, and make a stricter observation on the three pillars

there erected. Here I was informed, that the brass serpentine pillar

was erected by the emperor _Leo_, as a charm against the noisom number

of serpents, which in his time infested the city; the same person

superstitiously affirming, that since the late defacement of this pillar,

by the breaking of the serpents heads, the city was again molested by

innumerable noxious serpents. At the foot of the old pillar, formerly

covered with brass, I read the remains of that inscription once taken

by Sir _George Sandys_, but since his time part of it buried with

earth, and part broken away; which is very erroneously printed in his

_Travels_[84]. On the basis of the hieroglyphical pillar I observed the

carved representation of the pillar it self, together with the figures of

men labouring to erect it.

May ix.

By the interest of a Greek, who serves the _bostangí bashá_ as his

surgeon, I was admitted in company of Mr. John Philips, an eminent

merchant, into the great _seraglio_ of _Constantinople_, where we passed

thro two courts, that form the entry of the palace; the first of which

has a small arsenal, furnished with arms and ammunition; the second has

piazzas on two sides, in which the _janisaries_ are wont to eat, and

opens at the upper end into the _diván_. From these two courts we were

permitted to walk round the full extent of the garden, on each side of

the palace. They are rude and wild places, affording nothing that is

entertaining, but that wherewith nature has furnished them, which is

an admirable situation rising into convenient ascents, and capable of

infinite improvement, if it were happily in the possession of a Christian

prince. The whole plat of ground, which they call the gardens of the

_seraglio_, is covered with cypress and other trees, thro which are cut

shady walks, where _kiosks_ are seen of various sorts; the most eminent

and remarkable of which is that called the _Blew kiosk_, fronting the

town of _Scutari_. This and the other called the _Alaí kiosk_, fronting

the city of _Galata_, are rich and splendid pleasure houses, covered

with a gilded cupola, and adorned in their several walls with Indian

tiles, and stately chimneypieces of solid brass. Passing thro the extent

of the _seraglio_ towards the extreme point, that looks up the Thracian

_Bosphorus_, you observe a Corinthian pillar consisting of white marble,

of which the ignorant Turks report a fabulous and ridiculous account; but

its true original is discovered by this inscription on one plane of the

basis:

FORTVNAE REDVCI OB

DEVICTOS GOTHOS[85]

On the opposite plane is likewise this religious device:

+--+--+

|ΙϹ|ΧϹ|

|ΝΙ|ΚΑ|

+--+--+

Near this pillar we were admitted thro a gate, which opens into a green

court, and that again into a garden kept in somewhat a regular order.

From hence we ascend by a few steps into an apartment of the _Grand

Signior_, where are two rich _kiosks_, a fish pond, a paved walk, and

an open gallery. Here we were shewn the lodgings, where the unhappy

princes of the empire are detained prisoners, as also the dark chambers

of the _ichoglans_, and the door that leads into the _harém_ of the

_Grand Signior_. There also are shewn two or three instances of the

strength and the activity of _Sultan Morát_; as a ponderous round stone,

which with one finger he is said to have lifted by a ring fixt therein;

likewise five thick and substantial sheilds, which being placed upon

one another were peirced thro by a cast of his _jiríd_ still sticking

in them; also several silver pellets thrown by him with that violence,

as to stick in an iron door. The above mentioned gallery is rich and

splendid, adorned with various gilding of flower work, and supported

with beautiful serpentine pillars. In the sides of one of the _kiosks_

are three orbicular stones of fine porphyry, the middlemost of which

is curiously polished, and thereby serves to reflect the prospect of

the _seraglio_ and adjoining city, in the nature of a looking glass. At

the further end of the garden of the _seraglio_ are the intire walls of

an antient Christian church, and near to that the aviary of the _Grand

Signior_, where I observed the hens of _Grand Cairo_, having blue gills

and feathers curiously coloured with grey circles, and in the center of

each a spot of black.

This day I retired again to _Belgrade_, for the advantage of its healthy

air and water, and the entertainment of its shady situation. Hence on

the twelfth instant I made a tour towards _Domuzderé_, and the shore of

the _Black Sea_, on which we rode for some space of ground, and returned

by that called _Ovid’s Tower_, thro a fertile tract of ground, curiously

varied with corn, grass, and shady woods.

May xx.

I returned again to my lodgings at _Galata_, and the next day crossed the

water in company with Mr. Goodfellow to _Constantinople_, where after

a visit to the _mosque_ of _Solymán_ the _Magnificent_, we obtained

leave to ascend one of the _minarées_, from which the _muezins_ call the

Turks to their _namáz_, being about an hundred and twenty feet high.

Here we took a delightful prospect of the whole situation and extent

of _Stambol_, as likewise of _Galata_, _Pera_, and _Scutari_, with the

neighbouring seas, canals, and land that encloses them. But the peculiar

happiness of this day was the employment of about two hours, which we

leisurely spent in viewing the stupendous church of _Sophía_[86], now

profaned by its conversion into a Turkish _mosque_. It chiefly merits

the regard of any curious traveler for the reliques of its rich mosaic

work; the variety of pretious marble[87], which adorns it, consisting of

serpentine, alabaster, and porphyry; and the architecture of its large

and flat tho sublime cupola[88], in which are still the entire figures of

_Christ_ and the twelve _Apostles_, and in the windows many inscriptions

in mosaic work from the _New Testament_.

May xxiii.

I returned again to _Belgrade_, as well for the opportunity of confirming

my health, as for continuing my respects to his Excellency the Lord Paget.

June vi.

I waited on his Excellency from _Belgrade_ to _Pera_, going first to

_Boiukderé_ and thence down the _Bosphorus_ by boat.

June x.

I waited on his Excellency, as well to wish him a good journey, as to

receive his commands for _Smyrna_.

June xiii.

I returned to the house of my esteemed freind, Mr. Goodfellow, in

_Galata_; and the day following took leave of the Dutch ambassador and

his family.

June xvi.

I made a visit by boat to the _Seven Towers_, now a prison for persons

of quality, since by the fate of war it has fallen into the hands of

the Turks, but antiently the _Porta Janicula_ of _Constantinople_. The

beautiful remains of this gate are still admirable, tho by the Turks

suffered to be almost concealed by a dead wall, and the shade of the

neighbouring trees. It is a regular and carved arch of white marble,

supported by two beautiful pillars, adorned in the pilasters with a

sculpture representing several military affairs, and flanked on each side

the pillars with twelve tablets of carved work extremely well performed,

which contain several poetical stories. Among the rest is _Hercules_ and

the _Nemeaean lion_, the beast prodigious and terrible, but confessing

its conqueror by an agreable posture; _Luna_ and _Endymion_; a winged

_Pegasus_, managed by some of the _Muses_; a pourtraiture of the known

combat of whirlbats; and an imperial figure, crowned by two celestial

machines.

Returning by boat along the walls of the city, I observed its crooked

figure and posture to the sea; and noted also the several square towers

variously interspersed at unequal distances, each bearing an inscription

much to the same purport, as may be seen by the following copy, which I

took of them in the boat.

On a tower near the _Porta Janicula_: