the long table, at the higher side of which the lord with his family and
any distinguished guests took their meals, whilst on the floor below those
of an inferior rank were seated at tables ranging along each side of the
room. At the opposite, or western, end, the oaken screens, nine and a half
feet high, extended across the full width, dividing off the heck or
passage, from which opened out the kitchen, buttery, and other offices,
and from over which the musicians in the minstrels' gallery would on all
occasions of more than ordinary importance enliven the feast with their
melody. This hall was also used for the transaction of business between
the lord and his vassals, for here he would hold his royalty court,
receiving their suit and service, and administer justice according to the
powers granted to him by the Crown. At night time the retainers would
huddle together on the thickly strewn rushes in the middle of the floor,
around the fire and its convolving wreaths of smoke ascending to the open
lantern in the roof. For it must be remembered that chimneys were not
introduced into England, except to a few castles, until the fifteenth
century, about the time when the Redemans would be transferring Levens to
Alan Bellingham."
With chimneys came new taxes, and some of them were not only keenly
resented, but evaded as openly as was possible. The people seem to have
had a special dislike to the tax of two shillings a year which was passed
in the twelfth year of Charles the Second, for that was a heavy sum,
having regard to the value of money then. Among the manuscripts preserved
at Rydal Hall, Westmorland, by the le Flemings, are a great many
references to this tax. There were schemes for substituting other imposts,
as appears by a sentence contained in a letter (May 10th, 1669) by Daniel
Fleming, Rydal, to Joseph Williamson, who had just purchased the estate of
Winderwath, near Temple Sowerby:--"There are rumours one while that the
Scots are up in armes, another while that bishops and dean and chapter
lands will be sold, or annext to the crowne in the place of the excise and
hearth money, and bishops to be maintained by sallaries out of the
exchequer."
Another document is from the Lords Commissioners to the justices of the
peace in the Barony of Kendal, concerning the collection of the hearth
tax, and an item in a news-letter of April, 1671, says, "This day the Lord
Treasurer received proposals for the farm of the hearth money; those who
propose to keep it as it was, advancing only L100,000, are to make a new
offer." During the following summer another came "from the Court at
Whitehall" to the justices of the peace for Westmorland, "Cautioning them
against allowing exemptions from hearth money too readily. They should
consider firstly who are they whom the law intends to be exempted. Then
they should appoint petty sessions for the signing of certificates at such
times and places that the royal officers may attend and be heard. It
cannot be supposed that the law intends to oblige the justices to allow
whatsoever shall be offered them without examining the truth thereof." A
news-letter of April 23rd, 1674, gives an idea of the extent of the tax
in the following sentence:--"This day the farm of the hearth money was
made and let to Mr. Anslem, Mr. Perry, and Mr. Buckley, at L151,000 per
annum, and L25,000 advance, commencing at Michaelmas next."
Some of the entries are of special interest to Cumberland and Westmorland.
Thus in a letter to Daniel Fleming on January 8th, 1674-5, Robert Joplin,
writing from Kendal, "apologises for writing as he had not been able to
wait upon him. Has been seven weeks in the country, and surveyed and taken
account of all the hearths in most of the market towns of this county, and
in Cumberland. Had always behaved with all civility. If he will have the
duplicates of the surveys made they will be handed in at the next
sessions." A week later Robert Joplin and Richard Bell, the collectors of
the hearth tax, report to the justices of Kendal: "Have surveyed most of
the market towns in the two counties, levying the tax of 2s. on every fire
hearth. Would not proceed to distrain without the justices' permission.
Some refuse to pay because they were not charged before. All kitchens and
beerhouses refuse on the same pretence. Many hearths have been made up,
most of them lately. We trust that the justices will be very careful in
giving certificates."
A few days afterwards Nathaniel Johnson, another collector of the tax,
writes from Newcastle to Daniel Fleming that he "does not think the
determination of the justices to proceed in the matter of the hearth money
under the old survey, until the new is perfected, is consistent with the
law; nevertheless he will yield to their opinion." Johnson proves to be a
difficult official with whom to deal, and he writes to Fleming in July,
"Remonstrating against the conduct of the Kendal magistrates in the matter
of the hearth money. It has been already decided that smiths' hearths are
liable. The practice of walling up hearths in a temporary manner is
plainly fraudulent. The magistrates ought not to countenance such things,
nor refuse the evidence of officials engaged in this business, for of
course none other can be made. May reluctantly be compelled to appeal
against their proceedings."
These and similar protests did not appear to have much effect, though
frequently repeated, and ten years later came an order from the Lord High
Treasurer to the Clerk of the Peace of the county of Lancaster, to be
communicated to the justices, in view of the difficulties raised by them
in the collection of the hearth money: "The duty is to be levied on empty
houses, smiths' forges, innkeepers' and bakers' ovens, on landlords for
tenements let to persons exempt on account of poverty, on private persons
where there is a hearth and oven in one chimney. The duty may be levied on
the goods of landlords and tenants which are not on the premises whereon
the duty arises."
There is a rather amusing reference to the subject in a letter sent by
William Fleming to his brother Roger Fleming, at Coniston Hall: "Tell the
constable the same hearth man is coming again. Tell him to be as kind as
his conscience will permit to his neighbours, and play the fool no more.
The priest and he doth not know how happy they are."
The means available, in bygone days, for quenching fire were, everywhere
in the two counties, of a most primitive character. In March, 1657, the
Corporation of Kendal decreed, as there had "happened of late within this
borough great loss and damage by fire," and the Corporation had not fit
instruments and materials for speedy subduing of the flames, that the
Mayor and Alderman should each provide two leathern buckets, and each
burgess one such bucket, before May 1st following, the penalty being a
fine of 6s. 8d. in the case of the leading men, and half that amount for
default on the part of others.
Sports and Festivities.
It is almost impossible to separate the sports of the Cumberland and
Westmorland people from the festivals, inasmuch as some of the pastimes
were prominent items in gatherings even of a semi-religious character.
Wrestling, that finest of North-Country exercises, has been practically
killed by the competition of other athletic games, but more than all by
the "barneying" so often practised by the wrestlers. To this cause must be
ascribed the fall of the "mother ring" at Carlisle, and the disfavour into
which the sport has dropped in all parts of the two counties, albeit the
Grasmere exhibitions are still kept up to a fair standard of honesty. For
centuries it was the greatest amusement of fellsider, dalesman, and town
dweller, and it was no uncommon thing for men to walk, in the pre-railway
days, twenty miles to a wrestling meeting. Pure love of sport must have
been the motive, because the prize usually consisted only of a belt of the
value of from ten shillings to a sovereign--often much less--and a small
sum of money which would now be looked at with contempt even when offered
by way of "expenses." The men whose prowess gained them more than local
fame were often almost perfect specimens of what athletes should be at
their respective weights, and their skill cannot be approached by any of
the medium and light weights now in the ring. For several other reasons
the sport is entitled--unfortunately so--to be classed among things
belonging to the bygone, and to the next generation wrestling, as
understood at the Melmerby and Langwathby Rounds fifty years ago, will be
unknown.
Clergymen have often been included among the best wrestlers of their time,
especially in West Cumberland, though some who as young men were noted for
their prowess in this direction gave up this sport when they took holy
orders. William Litt, whose name will always have a place in local
sporting annals through his book, "Wrestliana," was intended for the
Church. His tastes were so obviously in other directions that the plan had
to be abandoned, and he developed into one of the finest wrestlers of his
time. The Rev. G. Wilkinson, Vicar of Arlecdon, and the Rev. O. Littleton,
Vicar of Buttermere, were also ardent followers of the sport; while the
Rev. A. Brown, Egremont, and the inventor of the "chip" known as
buttocking, was described as one of the best exponents of the old game to
be found in the north of England.
A sporting custom peculiar to the two counties--for the nobleman most
concerned has immense possessions in each--is the race for the Burgh
Barony Cup. The meeting has been well described as "a singular old-world
institution, one of a number of antiquated customs mixed up with the land
laws." The races are held to celebrate the "reign" of a new Lord Lonsdale,
consequently no earl ever sees more than one--at least when he is the head
of the family. The last meeting on Burgh Marsh was in March, 1883, when
the arrangements were on a royal scale, thousands of persons being
present, an enormous number of them as the guests of his lordship.
Wrestling formed an important part of the proceedings during the two days,
but the central item was the race for the cup. The competitors were
confined to animals owned by free or customary tenants within the Barony,
and the winner of the hundred guineas trophy was greeted with frantic
cheering.
Carlisle possesses a unique racing relic. The "horse courses" were
formerly held on Kingmoor, and the "Carlisle bells" were doubtless prized
as much in their day as the stakes for L10,000 are now. The articles
frequently figure in the Municipal Records as the Horse and Nage Bells,
and were for a long time lost, being ultimately found in an old box in the
Town Clerk's office. Mr. Llewellyn Jewitt, F.S.A., some twenty years ago
gave this description of the relics: "The racing bells are globular in
form, with slits at the bottom, as is usual in bells of that class. The
loose ball which would originally lie in the inside, so as to produce the
sound, has disappeared. The largest, which is two and a quarter inches in
diameter, is of silver gilt, and bears on a band round its centre the
inscription [each word being separated by a cross]:
+ THE + SWEFTES + HORSE + THES +
BEL + TO + TAK
+ FOR + MI + LADE + DAKER + SAKE
This lady was probably Elizabeth, daughter of George Talbot, fourth Earl
of Shrewsbury, and wife of William, Lord Dacre of Gilsland, who was
Governor of Carlisle in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The other bell, also
of silver, is smaller in size, and bears the initials H.B.M.C. (Henry
Baines, Mayor of Carlisle), 1559. On Shrove Tuesday Kingmoor became a
busy scene, and the contests created much excitement among the freemen and
others. The bell was not an uncommon prize, either in horse-racing or
cock-fighting, and was held by the victor, as challenge cups and shields
are at the present day, from one year to another, or from one race to
another. To win this race was of course a mark of honour, and gave rise to
the popular expression of 'to bear away the bell.' At York the racing
prize in 1607 was a small golden bell, and the Corporation Records of
Chester about 1600 show that in that city a silver bell was given to be
raced for on the Roodee; but I am not aware that any of them are now in
existence. Probably the Carlisle examples are unique."
[Illustration: CARLISLE RACING BELLS.]
There are many other evidences that racing has for several centuries been
a favourite pastime with the people of Cumberland and Westmorland. The
race meetings seem to have been made occasions for county gatherings of
other kinds, and especially for cock-fights--a sport which has not yet
entirely died out. The following advertisement of Penrith races in 1769,
which appeared in the _St. James's Chronicle_ for that year, may be quoted
as an example of many others, relating not only to Penrith but to other
towns in the two counties:--
_Penrith Races, 1769._
To be run for, on Wednesday, the 24th of May, 1769, on the new Race
Ground at Penrith, Cumberland.
Fifty Pounds, by any four Years old Horse, Mare, or Gelding, carrying
8st. 7lb. Two-mile Heats.
On Thursday, the 25th, Fifty Pounds, by any Horse, &c., five Years
old, carrying 9st. Three-mile Heats.
On Friday, the 26th, Fifty Pounds, by any five, six Years old, and
Aged Horse, &c. Five-year Olds to carry 8st. 3lb. Six-year Olds 9st.,
and Aged 9st 8lb. Four-mile Heats.
All Horses, etc., that run for the above Plates, to be entered at the
Market Cross on Saturday, the 20th Day of May, between the Hours of
Three and Six o'Clock in the Afternoon. The Owner of each Horse, &c.,
to subscribe and pay Three Guineas at the Time of Enterance towards
the Races, and Two Shillings and Six-pence for the Clerk of the Race.
Certificates of each Horse, &c., to be produced at the Time of
Enterance. Three reputed running Horses, &c., to enter and start for
each of the above Plates, or no Race.
If only one Horse, &c., enters, to receive Ten Pounds, if two Fifteen
between them, and their Subscription paid at the time of Enterance
returned.
All the above Plates to be run for in the royal Manner, and any
Dispute that may arise to be determined by the Stewards, or whom they
shall appoint.
The several Plates will be paid without any Deduction or Perquisite.
{CHARLES HOWARD, jun., Esq.
Stewards.{
{ANDREW WHELPDALE, Esq.
[pointing hand] A Cock Main, Ordinaries, and Assemblies, as usual.
Not less interesting than the foregoing announcement is the report of the
event. There was never much attempt at descriptions, either of races or
cock-fights, though one would like to know the names of the gentlemen
indicated in this closing paragraph of the report: "At this Meeting a Main
of Cocks was fought between the Gentlemen of Cumberland, David Smith,
Feeder, and the Gentlemen of Westmoreland, Thomas Bownas, Feeder, which
consisted of 21 Battles, 16 whereof were won by the former, and 5 by the
latter; and of the 15 Bye-Battles Smith won 6, and Bownas 9."
Dalston was long the headquarters of cock-fighting in Cumberland--"Dalston
Black-reeds" are still spoken of as the best birds of the kind in the
world. There is a tradition to the effect that cock-fighting was once
carried on at Rose Castle, in the parish of Dalston, but the Rev. J.
Wilson[17] took particular pains to disprove the assertion. Against that
must be put the following sentence which appeared in _Good Words_ for
December, 1894: "One curious adjunct to an episcopal residence, speaking
loudly of the change of manners and the amelioration of tastes, is the
cock-pit, where matches are said to have been at one time fought for the
amusement of the Bishop and his friends." The favourite day for
cock-fights was Shrove Tuesday.
Cock-fighting was far from being the only barbarous sport enjoyed by the
people of the northern counties. Bull-baiting and badger-baiting were
probably never more popular than at the time when they were prohibited by
law in 1835. There is still the bull ring at Appleby, and the spectators'
gallery was removed within living memory. At Kirkoswald and several other
market-places in the two counties the rings are still firmly fixed to
which the bulls were tethered during the baiting process. Mr. W. Wilson,
in his brochure on "Old Social Life in Cumberland," says: "In Keswick a
large iron ring was formerly fixed in a stone block in the market-place;
this was called the bull ring, and to this a bull, previous to being
slaughtered, was fastened by the ring in its nose, and then baited and
bitten by savage dogs amid dreadful bellowing till the poor beast was
almost covered with foam, and quite exhausted. Great excitement prevailed
when a bull was being baited, and large numbers assembled to witness the
sport. On such occasions the market-place at Keswick was crowded, and
many in order to obtain a good view, might be seen sitting on the roofs of
the adjoining houses. Beyond the excitement which the exhibition produced
among the spectators, the system was thought to be of great value in
improving the quality of the beef, an aged bull being especially tough
unless well baited before slaughtering. When the flesh of a bull was
exposed for sale, it was the rule in Keswick and probably elsewhere, to
burn candles during the day on the stall on which the meat was exposed for
sale, in order that customers might be aware of the quality of the meat
sold there." In some other places in the two counties the penalty for
killing and selling an unbaited bull was 6s. 8d.
For a very long period archery was practised in Cumberland and Westmorland
not only as a means of defence and attack, but also as a recreation. The
numerous places called "Butts," or bearing synonymous names, indicate that
few towns neglected to set apart a shooting ground. In his "Survey of the
Lakes" Clarke blamed the severity of the game laws for keeping up skill in
archery amongst the poachers in the forests of the north-western counties.
He added: "It was this that produced so many noted archers and outlaws in
the forest of Englewood as well as that of Sherwood. For not to mention
Adam Bell and his partners, tradition still preserves the names of Watty
of Croglin, Woodhead Andrew, Robin O'th'Moor's Gruff Elleck (Alexander),
and of several others as of persons distinguished in that line even
amongst the people who were almost to a man of the same stamp. Besides, as
their squabbles and the subsequent maraudings made the skill thus acquired
at times absolutely necessary to the inhabitants on each side of the
boundary, we may easily conclude that a necessity of this kind,
continually kept alive, must produce no small degree of dexterity.
"Whoever will consider the circumstances of the battles which were then
fought, will find that wherever the ground or circumstances favoured the
archer for a number of regular discharges, they generally produced such a
confusion, particularly amongst the enemy's horse, as gave the men-at-arms
of their own party an opportunity of easily completing it. I need cite no
further particulars of this than the battle of Homildon, when the forces
of the Northern Marches encountered the gallant Archibald, Earl of
Douglas; the men-at-arms stood still that day, and the bowmen had the
whole business upon their hands. It is recorded that no armour could
resist their arrows, though that of Earl Douglas and his associates had
been three years in making. It would seem, indeed, that the Scots excelled
in the use of the spear, and (excepting the Borderers) neglecting the bow;
since one of their own kings is thought to have recommended its more
general use by ridiculing their imperfect management of it."
The Kendal bowmen celebrated the prowess of their fore-elders of the same
name by establishing a competition and festival for September 9th in each
year. It was on that day in 1513 that the Kendal bowmen were particularly
distinguished in the battle of Flodden Field. The prizes shot for every
year were a silver arrow and a medal, the members appearing in a uniform
of green, with arrow buttons; the cape green velvet with silver arrow; the
waistcoat and breeches buff, and the shooting jacket was of green and
white striped cotton.
Whitehaven also had its Society of Archers, and in 1790 had a medal
designed by Smirke as a trophy for competition. On one side were the
bugle-horn, quiver, and bow, above them being the words, "Per Has
Victoriam," and underneath the three place-names, "Poictiers," "Cressy,"
and "Agincourt." On the reverse was the name of the shooting ground,
Parton Green, and the date, while round the edge were the words,
"Captain's Medal, Cumberland Archers."
The Kendal "Boke of Recorde" contains several references to the pastimes
of Westmerians from two to three centuries ago. On one occasion it was
ordered by the Corporation "That whosoever do play at the football in the
street and break any windows, shall forfeit upon view thereof by the Mayor
or one of the Aldermen in the ward where the fault is committed the sum of
12d. for every time every party, and 3s. 4d. for every window by the same
broken, and to be committed till it be paid, the constable looke to it to
present it presently at every Court day." That knur and spell, the game so
popular still in Yorkshire, was once a favourite pastime in Kendal is
attested by the following entry, dated April, 1657: "It is ordered by the
Court that all such persons, inhabitants within this borough, above the
age of twelve years, that hereafter shall play in the streets at a game
commonly called Kattstick and Bullvett shall forfeit and incur the penalty
of 12d. for every offence, to be levied of their goods, and where they
have no goods to be imprisoned two hours."
The somewhat questionable glories of Workington Easter football play have
passed away, partly in consequence of the occupation of a portion of the
playing ground by railways and works, and not less because of a change of
feeling. How long these Easter Tuesday matches between "Uppies" and
"Downeys" have gone on no man can tell. Half a century ago it was reported
in the _Pacquet_ that the game in 1849 "was played with all the vigour of
former days, from times beyond 'the memory of the oldest inhabitant.'" The
goals are about a mile apart, one being a capstan at the harbour, and the
other the park wall of Workingham Hall. There are no rules except those
suggested by cunning and skill, while brute force is of the greatest
importance. If the ball is "haled" over the park wall a sovereign is given
by the owner of the estate to the winners, and of course it is spent in
liquor. The players sometimes number hundreds, and thousands of people
attend as spectators.
In several places in the two counties "mock mayors" were annually elected,
and the occasion at Wreay was marked by somewhat uncommon festivities.
The Rev. A. R. Hall, Vicar of the parish, in a lecture delivered some time
ago, gave an account of these Shrovetide observances, which made the
village famous in its way. Up to 1790 the chief feature was a great
cock-fight, managed by the boys at school. A hunt of harriers subsequently
took the place of the cock-fight, this being followed by a public dinner,
and the election of the mayor. Sometimes this functionary belonged to
Wreay, and sometimes came from Carlisle; in the latter case, those who
wished to keep up the due dignity of the office chartered a coach-and-four
for the accommodation of their friends. Racing and jumping were features
in the sports, the prizes for which were hats. The old silver bell used to
ornament the mayor's wand of office. In 1872, unfortunately, the bell was
stolen, and Wreay lost this relic, which had been connected for 217 years
with its Shrovetide festivities. In 1880 the hunt and the election of
mayor both came to an end.