_The Author proceeds to London.--Re-embarks for Africa.--Arrives at
Madeira.--Observations on that Island.--Prosecution of the Voyage, and
Arrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c._
Our happy arrival was celebrated at the Crown inn, where Captain Webb and
his first Lieutenant (Younger) joined us; we dined together, and separated
with mutual kind wishes. The next morning Mr. Burrowes and myself proceeded
to London, and were once more rapidly conducted into its busy scene.
Without even time to greet my friends, I again left town for Portsmouth, to
commit myself to the watery element, and revisit the shores. I had so
recently left; and on the 22d of September sailed, in the ship Andersons,
from St. Helen's, under convoy of the Arab post sloop of war, commanded by
Keith Maxwell, Esq. and the Favorite sloop of war, by John Davie, Esq.
We anchored in Funchal Roads, island of Madeira, on Saturday the lath of
October, without experiencing any remarkable event.
When approaching the island of Madeira, it exhibits to the eye a strikingly
beautiful and picturesque view. The uneven surface of the hills, covered
with plantations of vines, and various kinds of herbage, with the exception
of partial spots burnt up by the heat of the sun in the dry season,
displays a singular perspective, which, with the beautiful appearance of
the interspersed villas, churches, and monasteries, form an arrangement
both exquisite and delightful.
After being visited by the boat of health, our party proceeded on shore in
the evening; and upon being made known to the house of Messrs. Murdoch,
Masterton, and Co. were politely invited to breakfast the ensuing morning.
At our appearance, in conformity with our appointment, we were introduced
into the breakfast parlour by Mr. Wardrope, one of the acting partners, to
his lady and sister, who received us with engaging civilities and
attention.
After our friendly meal, we perambulated the town of Funchal, and attended
chapel, which so far from being a house of devotion, presented to our
contemplation a rendezvous for intrigue and the retirement of a
conversazione.
Funchiale or Funchal, takes its derivation from Funcho, signifying in the
Portuguese language, Fennel; it is situated at the bottom of a bay, and may
be considered disproportionate to the island, in extent and appearance, as
it is ill built, and the streets remarkably narrow and ill paved. The
churches are decorated with ornaments, and pictures of images and saints,
most wretchedly executed: I understand, however, that a much better taste
is displayed in the convents, more especially that of the Franciscans, in
which is a small chapel, exhibiting the disgusting view of human skulls and
thigh bones lining its walls. The thigh bones form a cross, and the skulls
are placed in each of the four angles.
Nature has been very bountiful in her favours to Madeira; its soil is rich
and various, and its climate is salubrious and versatile; it abounds in
natural productions, and only requires the fostering hand of the husbandman
to produce every necessary, and almost luxury, of life. Walnuts, chesnuts,
and apples, flourish in the hills, almost spontaneously, and guanas,
mangoes, and bananas, in wild exuberance. At the country residence of James
Gordon, Esq. where we dined, and met with the most distinguished
hospitality, I saw a most surprising instance of rapid growth; a shoot of
the tree, called the Limbriera Royal, started up, perpendicularly from the
trunk, to a height of nearly _thirty feet_, from the month of January to
that of October: it is, however, to be observed, that the branches were
lopped off, and it is supposed the juices of the trunk communicated to this
stem.
Corn of a very good quality grows in this island, and might be produced in
plenty, but the inhabitants, whose characteristic is idleness, neglect its
culture, and thereby subject themselves to the necessity of relying upon
foreign imports. Their beef, mutton, and pork, are remarkably good, and
they have game in the mountains.
By order of the late governor, in 1800, the population was taken from the
confessional returns, and, as he was himself a bishop, it may be inferred
that the number stated below, which I procured from official authority, is
accurate, viz.
Number confessed, 95,000
And, calculating 1 in 10 for children under 5
years of age, the first period of their confession,
is equal to 3,500
--------
Making in the aggregate the number of souls to be 104,500
--------
15,000 of whom were computed to be inhabitants of the town of Funchal.
The government consists of a governor, appointed by the crown of Portugal,
the island being in its possession, styled governor of the islands, and: is
perfectly arbitrary; Funchal is his residence; he has a council under him
consisting of 24 members, whose president is the second judge for the time
being. All officers are nominated by the crown, and the holders continue
only for three years, at the end of which new nominations take place.
The only article of trade is wine, of which they export about 12,000 pipes
annually, and consume from 6 to 8,000 pipes in the island, comprehending
_small wine_, &c. being in the whole about 20,000 pipes. It is made by
pressing out the juice from the grape in a wooden vessel, proportioned in
size to the quantity they intend to make. The wine-pressers take off their
jackets and stockings, get into the vessel, and with their elbows and feet
press as much of the juice as is practicable by this operation; the stalks
are then tied together and pressed, under a square piece of wood, by a
lever with a stone fastened to the end of it; the wine is brought from the
country in goat skins, by men and women on their heads.
The roads are so steep and roughly paved, that neither carriages nor carts
are in use, the substitute is a palanquin for the former, and for the
latter a hollow log of wood, drawn by oxen, upon which the wine vessels or
other loads are placed; they, however, have horses and mules very well
adapted to their roads.
The revenue to the crown of Portugal is estimated from 20 to 30,000_l_.
annually, clear of all expenses; but the balance of trade is greatly
against them, all their specie being drawn to Lisbon.
The currency of the island is Spanish, and consists of dollars, converted
by their laws, into milreas of 5_s_. 6_d_. pistareens, value about is.
bits, about 6_d_. and half bits, about 3_d_.
It is disadvantageous to take up money at Madeira upon bills, as they make
payment in dollars, which they value at a milrea. Sometimes they may, from
particular circumstances, give a premium, but it is seldom equal to the
discount.
On the morning of the 18th I bad my grateful adieu to Madeira, and the
friendly roof of Mr. Wardrope and his united family, the abode of conjugal
affection, friendship, and hospitable reception; and at 2 P.M. went on
board. We weighed anchor under the protection of the Favorite, the Arab
continuing at her moorings. Passing between the grand Canary and close in
with Teneriffe, we arrived safe at the island of Goree, on the 5th of
November, without our commodore, under convoy of the Favorite. The ship
Andersons having freight to deliver at that island, we continued there
until the 12th, and again resumed our voyage; arriving, without accident;
at Bance Island, which I have previously noticed, on the 22d of the same
month.
My residence was confined to this island, and in excursions through the
neighbouring countries, until the 4th June, 1806, during which period, and
from a general intercourse with an extended circle of chiefs, natives, and
traders, I have been enabled to decide upon the situation of this country,
and to form a conclusive opinion of the condition and character of its
inhabitants, and its commercial resources.
From these sources of intelligence, and the example this island displayed,
with observations upon the conduct and management of the Sierra Leone
company, I first conceived the system that I shall hereafter delineate,
upon which the African's condition may be effectually improved, and his
hereditary slavery exterminated.
[Illustration: BANCE ISLAND, in the RIVER SIERRA LEONE. _The Property of
John & Alexander Anderson Esq. London._]
The natives of Africa resident upon the coast, are uniformly considered as
more ferocious and barbarous in their customs and manners, less numerous in
population, and more encroaching and deceitful, than those of the interior.
While this formidable opposition exists, and the baneful influence of
barbarous habits continues, it is in vain to look to remuneration by
natural commerce, or to the establishment of civilization. The African's
barbarity must be first here assailed, and the infinite resources upon the
coasts and maritime rivers must be developed to his view, to pre-dispose
him to refine his condition, and adopt the civilized habits of life; nor is
there any site which I have met with upon the Windward Coast of Africa,
more calculated to promote this beneficent undertaking, than the island of
Bance, from its locality of situation, being central to windward and
leeward operation, commanding an extensive circle of interior country, and
being long established in the estimation of the natives of an extended
district. But more of this subject in order.