_An Excursion to the Main Land.--Visit to King Marraboo.--Anecdotes of this
Chief.--Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton.--A shooting Party,
accompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other Chiefs.--Reflections
upon Information obtained from them, relative to this Part of the Coast,
and at Goree.--Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War, the Eugenie, which
convoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the River Gambia, on his
late Mission to the Interior of Africa.--Observations on that
Subject.--Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. Jago.--Some
Remarks upon that Island.--Departure from thence to England, and safe
arrival at Portsmouth._
A few days after the arrival of the Lark at the island of Goree,
accompanied by a party of the officers of that ship, I made an excursion
upon the main land: we set out from the ship early in the morning, for
Decar, the capital of a chief or king, named Marraboo: we arrived before he
had moved abroad, and, after going through winding narrow paths or streets,
we were conducted by one of his people to his palace, a wretched hovel,
built with mud, and thatched with bamboo. In our way to this miserable
habitation of royalty, a confused sound of voices issued forth from almost
every hut we passed, which originated from their inhabitants vociferating
their morning orisons to Allah and Mahomet; their religion being an
heterogeneous system of Mahomedanism, associated with superstitious
idolatry, incantations, and charms.
We found _Marraboo's head men_ and priests assembled before his majesty's
dwelling _to give him service_, and to offer him their morning's
salutation. At length he made his appearance, followed by several of the
officers of the palace, carrying skins of wild beasts, and mats, which upon
enquiry, I found to have composed the royal bed, spread out upon a little
hurdle, erected about a foot and a half high, interwoven with bamboo canes:
my attention was much engaged with this novel sight; and I could not
contemplate the venerable old man, surrounded by his chiefs, without
conceiving I beheld one of the patriarchs of old, in their primaeval state.
After his chiefs had paid their obeisance, I presumed, accompanied by my
friends, to approach the royal presence; when he discovered us among the
group, his countenance underwent an entire change, expressive of reserve
and surprise, exclaiming, "What did I want with Marraboo?" With great
humility I replied, "I be Englishman, come from King George's country, his
brother, to give him service." He replied with quickness, "I be very glad
to see you, what service have you brought?" I was aware of this tax upon my
civility, and replied, that "I make him good service;" which in plain
English was, that I shall make you a good present. He then conversed with
more freedom relative to his country, government, localities, and religion;
I suggested to him that "I understood he was a powerful king, and a great
warrior, had many wives and children, that he ruled over much people, and a
fine country, that I hear he get much head, that he far pass any of his
enemies, and that I be very happy to look so great a king:" or, in other
words, that I understood he was a great general, was very rich, was more
wise than all his contemporary chiefs, and that it gave me much pleasure to
pay my respects to so great a prince: but the former idiom of language is
best adapted to convey meaning to the interpreters of the chiefs of Africa,
in whatever tongue it may be spoken; being that which they use in
translation; and when they are addressed in this phraseology, they convey
their ideas with more perspicuity and literal interpretation. But to return
to the dialogue.
Marraboo.--"I be very glad to look you for that, I have much trouble all my
life--great deal of war--my son some time since killed in battle." This was
accompanied by such a melancholy expression of countenance, that could not
fail to excite my compassion, I therefore avoided touching more on the
subject of his wars; only observing, "that I hear he be too much for all
his enemies, and that he build great wall that keep his town and people
safe."
Marraboo.--"The king of Darnel's people cannot pass that--they all be
killed--they come there sometimes, but always go back again." My curiosity
was excited to obtain the history of this _enchanted wall_, which on my
approach to the town, I had discovered to be apparently little more than
three or four feet high, and situated within the verge of their wells of
fresh water, open at several places, and without any defence.
Upon enquiry, I found that Marraboo had been early in life _fetish man_, or
high priest, to Damel, king of Cayor, a very powerful chief bordering upon
the Senegal, and that he had artfully contrived to gain over to his
interest a number of adherents, who, in process of time, became formidable,
rebelled against their lawful sovereign, and took possession of that part
of the country towards Cape Verd: to strengthen their position, Marraboo
caused a wall to be erected, commencing from the sea shore, and extending
towards the Cape; which, in the estimation of the natives, and in
consequence of his sacerdotal office, incantations, and charms, was
rendered invulnerable: the hypocritical priest well knew the natural
disposition of his countrymen, and the effect his exorcisms would produce
upon their minds; which operated so effectually, that when his army was
beaten by the powerful Damel, they uniformly retired behind their exorcised
heap of stones, which in a moment stopt their enemy's career, and struck
them with such dread, that they immediately retired to their country,
leaving their impotent enemy in quiet possession of his usurped territory;
whom otherwise they might have annihilated with the greatest facility.
Superstition is a delusion very prevalent in Africa; and its powerful
influence upon the human mind is forcibly illustrated by the foregoing
instance.
When I enquired of Marraboo the nature of his belief in a supreme being,
his observations were confused and perplexed, having no perspicuous
conception of his attributes or perfections, but an indistinct combination
of incomprehensibility; and to sum up the whole, he remarked, "that he pass
all men, and was not born of woman."
A few days after the abovementioned visit, I made another excursion to the
main land, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, and one of the principal
inhabitants of Goree, named Martin. We landed at a small native town,
called after the island, Goree Town. When we came on shore, we were
immediately surrounded by natives, who surveyed us with great curiosity and
attention. We had prepared ourselves with fowling-pieces and shooting
equipage, with the view of penetrating into the interior country: in
pursuance of our design, we dispatched a messenger to _Decar_, with a
request that we might be supplied with attendants and horses: our
solicitation was promptly complied with; and Alexander, Marraboo's son,
speedily made his appearance with two horses, attended by several chiefs
and head men. Our cavalcade made a most grotesque exhibition; Mr. Hamilton
and myself being on horseback, followed by Alexander and his attendants on
foot, in their native accoutrements and shooting apparatus. My seat was not
the most easy, neither was my horse very correct in his paces; the saddle
being scarcely long enough to admit me, with a projection behind, intended
as a security from falling backwards: the stirrups were formed of a thin
plate of iron, about three or four inches broad, and so small, that I could
scarcely squeeze my feet into them. In our progress we killed several
birds, of a species unknown in Europe, and of a most beautiful plumage; one
of which, a little larger than the partridge in England, was armed with a
sharp dart or weapon projecting from the pinion, as if designed by nature
to operate as a guard against its enemies. Our associates rendered us every
friendly attention, and evinced great anxiety to contribute to our sport;
and proved themselves skilful and expert marksmen. The country abounded
with a multiplicity of trees and plants, which would no doubt have amply
rewarded the researches of the botanist, and scientific investigator. The
fatigue I had undergone, and the oppressive heat of the sun, so completely
overpowered me, by the time of our return to Goree Town, that I felt myself
attacked by a violent fever; in this situation I was attended with every
tenderness and solicitude by the females; some bringing me a calabash of
milk, others spreading me a mat to repose upon, and all uniting in kind
offices: it is from them alone that man derives his highest happiness in
this life; and in all situations to which he is exposed, they are the
assuasive agents by whom his sorrows are soothed, his sufferings
alleviated, and his griefs subdued; while compassion is their prominent
characteristic, and sympathy a leading principle of their minds.
The attention of these kind beings, and the affectionate offices of my
friend, operating upon a naturally good constitution, soon enabled me to
overcome the disease, and to return again to Goree. During the remaining
part of my stay there, I was vigilantly employed in procuring every
information relative to this part of the coast, and through the
intelligence of several of the native inhabitants and traders, I am enabled
to submit the following remarks.
To elucidate, with perspicuity, the deep impression I feel of the
importance of this district of the Windward Coast, in obtaining a facility
of intercourse with the interior, combining such a variety of local
advantage, by which our ascendency may be preserved, and our commercial
relations improved, is an undertaking, the difficulties of which I duly
appreciate; and I am aware that I have to combat many prejudices and
grounds of opposition to the system I conceive to be practicable, to
develope the various stores of wealth with which Africa abounds, and to
improve the intellectual faculties of its native inhabitants.
That a situation so highly valuable as the Senegal, and its contiguous
auxiliary, the island of Goree, has been so overlooked, is certainly a
subject of great surprise, and deep regret. While visionary and
impracticable efforts have been resorted to penetrate into the interior of
Africa, we have strangely neglected the maritime situations, which abound
with multifarious objects of commerce, and valuable productions, inviting
our interference to extricate them from their dormant state; and the
consideration apparently has been overlooked, that the barbarism of the
natives on the frontiers must first be subdued by enlightened example,
before the path of research can be opened to the interior.
We have several recent occurrences to lament, where the most enterprising
efforts have failed, through the inherent jealousies of the natives, and
their ferocious character; and, therefore, it is expedient to commence
experiments in the maritime countries, as the most eligible points from
whence operative influence is to make its progress, civilization display
itself among the inhabitants, and a facility of intercourse be attained
with the interior. So long as this powerful barrier remains in its present
condition, it will continue unexplored; and our intercourse with its more
improved tribes must remain obscured, by the forcible opposition of the
frontier; and these immense regions, with their abundant natural resources,
continue unknown to the civilized world. The inhabitants of the sea coast
are always more fierce and savage than those more remote and insular: all
travellers and voyagers, who have visited mankind in their barbarous state,
must substantiate this fact: and the history of nations and states clearly
demonstrates, that the never-failing influence of commerce and agriculture
united, has emanated from the frontiers, and progressively spread their
blessings into the interior countries. View our own now envied greatness,
and the condition in which our forefathers lived, absorbed in idolatry and
ignorance, and it will unquestionably appear, that our exalted state of
being has arisen from the introduction of the civilized arts of life, the
commerce which our local situation has invited to our shores, and our
agricultural industry.
Within the district now in contemplation, flows the river of _Senegal_,
with its valuable _gum trade_; the _Gambia_, abounding with innumerable
objects of commerce, such as indigo, and a great variety of plants for
staining, of peculiar properties, timber, wax, ivory, &c.; _the Rio Grande,
Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo,_ &c. all greatly productive, and their borders
inhabited by the Jolliffs, the Foollahs, the Susees, the Mandingos, and
other inferior nations, and communicating, as is now generally believed,
with the river Niger, which introduces us to the interior of this great
continent; the whole presenting an animating prospect to the distinguished
enterprise of our country.
That these advantages should be neglected, is, as I have before said,
subject of deep regret, and are the objects which I would entreat my
countrymen to contemplate, as the most eligible to attain a knowledge of
this important quarter of the globe, and to introduce civilization among
its numerous inhabitants; by which means, our enemies will be excluded from
that emolument and acquirement, which we supinely overlook and abandon to
contingencies.
The island of Goree lies between the French settlement of the Senegal and
the river Gambia, and therefore is a very appropriate local station to aid
in forming a general system of operation from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas,
subject to one administration and control. The administrative authority, I
would recommend to be established in the river of Sierra Leone, as a
central situation, from whence evolution is to proceed with requisite
facility, and a ready intercourse be maintained throughout the whole of the
Windward Coast; and as intermediate situations, I would propose the rivers
Gambia, Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo, and Isles de Loss, to the northward; and to
the southward, the Bannana Islands, the Galinhas, Bassau, John's River, &c.
to Cape Palmas; or such of them as would be found, upon investigation, best
calculated to promote the resources of this extensive coast.
The supreme jurisdiction in the river Sierra Leone, with auxiliaries
established to influence the trade of the foregoing rivers, form the
outlines of my plan, to be supported by an adequate military force, and
organized upon principles which I have hereafter to explain in the course
of my narrative.
Having an opportunity to sail for England, in his Majesty's sloop of war
the Eugenie, commanded by Charles Webb, Esq. as it was uncertain at what
time the Lark was to proceed, I availed myself of that officer's kind
permission to embark, accompanied by surgeon Thomas Burrowes and his lady.
The Eugenie had been dispatched for England to convoy the Crescent
transport brig, with Mr. Mungo Park on board, to the river Gambia, upon his
late mission to the interior of Africa. Captain Webb did not conceive it
prudent, nor indeed was it expedient, to proceed higher up the river than
Jillifree, and dispatched the Crescent as far as Kaya, about 150 miles from
the capes of the river, where Mr. Park landed with his associates, viz. his
surgeon, botanist, draftsman, and about 40 soldiers, commanded by an
officer obtained from the royal African corps at Goree, by the order of
Government.
Nothing could have been more injudicious than attempting this ardoous
undertaking, with any force assuming a military appearance. The natives of
Africa are extremely jealous of white men, savage and ferocious in their
manners, and in the utmost degree tenacious of any encroachment upon their
country. This unhappy mistake may deprive the world of the researches of
this intelligent and persevering traveller, who certainly merits the esteem
of his country, and who, it is to be feared, may fall a victim to a
misconceived plan, and mistaken procedure.
[Illustration: PORTO PRAYA, ISLAND OF ST JAGO Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W
Nicol]
Although anxious to embark, yet I could not take my departure without
sensibly feeling and expressing my sense of obligation for the many
attentions I had to acknowledge from the officers of the garrison, and also
to several of the native inhabitants, among whom were Peppin, Martin, St.
John, and others; the latter, I am sorry to say, was in a bad state of
health; I am much indebted to him for his judicious remarks, and very
intelligent observations. This native received his education in France, and
has acquired a very superior intelligence relative to the present condition
of his country.
Accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, my hospitable and friendly host, and several
of the officers of the Lark, I embarked on board the Eugenie, on the 31st
of May, and arrived in Porto Praya Bay on the 3d of June.
The town of Porto Praya is situated upon a plain, forming a height from the
sea, level with the fort, and is a most wretched place, with a very weak
and vulnerable fortification. In the roads there is good anchorage for
shipping, opposite to Quail island, and for smaller vessels nearer the
shore. It has a governmenthouse, a catholic chapel, a market place, and
jail, built with stone; and is now the residence of the government of the
island of St. Jago, subject to the crown of Portugul. Formerly the
governor's place of abode was at the town of St. Jago, upon the opposite
side of the island: his title is that of governor-general of the islands,
comprehending Mayo, Fogo, &c.
Mayo is remarkable for its salt, which is cast on shore by the rollers or
heavy seas, which at certain periods prevail, and run uncommonly high. The
heat of the sun operating upon the saline particles, produces the salt,
which the inhabitants collect in heaps for sale. We anchored at Mayo for
some hours, and a number of vessels were lying in the roads, chiefly
Americans, taking in this article; it is a very rocky and dangerous
anchorage; we, however, found the traders were willing to undergo the
risque, from the cheapness of the commodity they were in quest of.
It is a most sorry place, with scarce a vestige of vegetation upon its
surface, and its inhabitants apparently live in the greatest misery. They
are governed by a black man, subject to the administration of St. Jago.
The military force of St. Jago is by no means either formidable in numbers
or discipline, and exhibits a most complete picture of despicable
wretchedness.
A black officer, of the name of Vincent, conducted as to the governor, who
received us with politeness, and gave us an invitation to dinner. The town
and garrison were quite in a state of activity and bustle; an officer of
high rank and long residence among them had just paid the debt of nature,
and his body was laid in state in the chapel, in all his paraphernalia. The
greater part of the monks from the monastery of St. Jago were assembled
upon the occasion, to sing requiems for his soul; and the scene was truly
solemn and impressive. We met these ministers of religion at dinner, but
how changed from that gravity of demeanor which distinguished them in
their acts of external worship. The governor's excellent Madeira was taken
in the most genuine spirit of devotion, accompanied by fervent exclamations
upon its excellent qualities. Upon perceiving this holy fervency in the
pious fraternity, we plied them closely, and frequently joined them in
flowing bumpers, until their ardour began to sink into brutal stupidity,
and the morning's hymns were changed into revelry and bacchanalian roar.
[Illustration: POGO, bearing N. by W. distance about 4 leagues from B
Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol]
[Illustration: 3 ISLAND of ST. IAGO, distance 6 Miles. 4. PAPS of CAPE
VERDE, bearing at C, _N.N.E._ and at D, _S.E._ by _S._ distance 3 leagues.
Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol]
This, however, was rather a tax upon the governor's hospitality, as it
deprived him of his _Ciesta_, a common practice with him, almost
immediately after the cloth is withdrawn. When we came ashore the next
morning, we were highly entertained with the anecdotes related to us of the
pranks performed during the night by the convivial priests, many of whom
were unable to fulfil the duties of the altar at the usual hour of prayer.
The natives of St. Jago, with those of the neighbouring islands, are mostly
black, or of a mixed colour, very encroaching in their manners, and much
addicted to knavery. The island is extremely rocky and uneven, but the
vallies are fertile. The inhabitants raise cotton, and they have several
sugar works; the quantity they raise of both, does not, however, much
exceed their own consumption, but there is no doubt that it might be
considerably augmented by industry, even for exportation; but the natives
are indolent, and extremely listless in their habits. The only inducement
in touching at this island is, to procure water and provisions: the former
is good, and the latter consists in hogs, turkeys, ducks, poultry, &c. but
frequently, after they have been visited by a fleet, a great scarcity
prevails.
The commodities the natives require as payment may be purchased at Rag
Fair, being extremely partial to cast off wearing apparel of every
description.
The men are extremely slovenly in their dress; but the women are rather
more correct and uniform, those of the better condition being habited in
muslin, and their hair ornamented, and neatly plaited.
They manufacture a narrow cloth of silk and cotton, which is in high
estimation among them, and its exportation is prohibited, except to
Portugal. Considerable ingenuity is displayed in this manufacture, which is
performed in a loom, differing very little from that used by the ruder
inhabitants of the coast of Africa, and similar to the garter loom in
England. They have horses and mules well adapted to their roads and rugged
paths, which they ride most furiously, particularly the military, who
advance at full speed to a stone wall, or the side of a house, merely to
shew their dexterity in halting.
After being detained here for several days in taking in stock and
provisions, we again weighed with the Crescent brig, and a sloop from
Gambia, bound to London, under our convoy, and after a tedious and very
anxious passage, arrived at Portsmouth on the 4th of August. We were
detained under quarantine until the return of post from London, and
proceeded on shore the following day. There is something in _natale solum_
which charms the soul after a period of absence, and operates so
powerfully, as to fill it with indescribable sensations and delight. Every
object and scene appeals so forcibly to the senses, enraptures the eye, and
so sweetly attunes the mind, as to place this feeling among even the
extacies of our nature, and; the most refined we are capable of enjoying.
It is this love of his country which stimulates man to the noblest deeds;
and, leaving all other considerations, only obedient to its call, separates
him from his most tender connections, and makes him risque his life in its
defence.
"Where'er we roam, whatever realms to see,
Our hearts untravell'd fondly turn to thee;
Still to our country turn, with ceaseless pain,
And drag, at each remove, a lengthening chain."
GOLDSMITH.