_The Author leaves Bance Island--Visits the Colony of Sierra
Leone--Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from whom
he experiences a most hospitable Reception--Cursory Remarks upon that
Colony and upon the Islands of Bannana--His Embarkation for the Island of
Goree, &c._
From the 6th to the 8td April, I remained at Bance Island, and having
determined to embark for Europe, where circumstances required me by the
first conveyance, I visited the colony of Sierra Leone, then under the
government of the late Capt. William Day, of the Royal Navy, to whom I had
a recommendatory letter. His reception of me was in conformity with his
general character, distinguished for urbanity and polite hospitality; and
such were the impressions upon my mind, both from observation and report,
of the skill and penetration he possessed to fulfil the arduous duties of
his station, that they never will be effaced, and I shall ever retain the
highest respect for his memory. He was then occupied in forming plans of
defence in the colony; and had he lived, I am firmly persuaded, from
subsequent observation and enquiry, that it would in a short period have
opposed to an enemy a formidable resistance, and that it might have been
speedily rescued from that anarchy and confusion which distracted councils,
and want of unanimity had occasioned.
The colony of Sierra Leone was established by the 31st of George III.
avowedly in opposition to the Slave Trade, and for the purpose of
augmenting more natural commerce, and introducing civilization among the
natives of Africa. The grant is from the 1st of July, 1791, and to continue
for the space of 31 years. During the late war with France, in September
1794, it was nearly destroyed by a French squadron, consisting of one
two-decker, several armed ships and brigs, in the whole about seven or
eight sail; they appeared in the offing on the evening of the 27th, and in
the morning of the 28th at day-light commenced their operations; the result
of which was, that the colony was ravaged by the enemy, and many houses
burnt and destroyed. This squadron was piloted into the river by two
Americans, one of whom was a Captain Neville. The pecuniary loss to the
colony by this attack has been estimated at about 40,000_l_. independant of
buildings destroyed, valued at first cost, about 15,000_l_. more. Bance
Island experienced the same fate, and suffered in pecuniary loss upwards of
20,000_l_.
In addition to this calamity, the Sierra Leone Company had to lament the
inefficiency of its superintendants, their want of unanimity, and various
other disasters and unforeseen difficulties which operated to augment the
charge in their establishment, and diminish its funds; and with every
deference to the benevolent undertakers, whose motives merit the highest
approbation of every enlightened mind, I would observe, they have likewise
to regret their misconception of the eligible grounds upon which so
beneficent a plan is to be productive of operative influence; but as at a
future stage of my narrative, I shall be enabled from more minute
investigation to enter at large upon this interesting subject, I shall for
the present dismiss it.
On the 28th of April I embarked on board his Majesty's sloop of war the
Lark, then upon the windward station; having looked into the river for
Governor Day's dispatches, &c.; and I cannot omit this opportunity of
expressing the obligations conferred upon me by Captain Langford, the
commander, and his officers, which invariably continued during my being on
board. At day-light we weighed, and were saluted by one of the forts with
15 guns, which were returned; nothing of moment occurred during our
passage, except being once overtaken with a tornado: this is a hurricane
which prevails upon the windward coast of Africa about this season of the
year, preceding the rainy season; and it is impossible to convey by
description an adequate idea of this explosion of the elements. It
announces its approach by a small white cloud scarcely discernible, which
with incredible velocity overspreads the atmosphere, and envelopes the
affrighted mariner in a vortex of lightning, thunder, torrents of rain, &c.
exhibiting nature in one universal uproar. It is necessary when this cloud
appears at sea, to take in all sail instantaneously, and bear away right
before the furious assailant, which soon expends its awful and tremendous
violence, and nature is again hushed into peaceful tranquillity.
To the southward of Cape Sierra Leone, and in about 8 degrees north
latitude, lie the Islands of Bannana, in a direction from east to west. To
the west of Great Bannana, lie the smaller islands, which are little more
than barren rocks. The soil of the Bannanas is very fertile, and the
climate healthy, from their proximity to the sea, and the refreshing
breezes which it bestows upon them. They take their name from a fruit so
denominated; and are situated in the most eligible position for commerce,
upon the Windward Coast; combining, from their fertility of soil and
situation, great agricultural advantages, and peculiar salubrity of air. At
present the sovereignty of these islands is contended for by two chiefs, of
considerable intelligence and enterprise, named Caulker and Cleveland.
Caulker appears to be the legitimate sovereign; Cleveland's forefathers
having been established by Caulker's as _trade men_, on their account; and
by intermarriage with that family their claims are founded. James
Cleveland, who married king Caulker's sister, first began the war by his
Grummettas, on the Bannanas, attacking Caulker's people on the Plantains,
The result of this violence was, that Charles Caulker was killed in battle;
and his body mangled and cut into pieces, in the most savage and cruel
manner. In 1798, Stephen Caulker, the present chief, commenced war again,
to revenge his brother's death; and the barbarous contest has continued
ever since, marked with ferocious cruelty, and with various success to the
respective claimants. Soon after its renewal, James Cleveland died, and was
succeeded by his nephew, William, who has received his education in
England, and is a chief of no inconsiderable acquirements and talent.
Stephen Caulker has succeeded in obtaining from him the possession of the
Bannanas and Plantains, and at present sways authority over them; still,
however, exposed to the enterprising genius and intrigues of Cleveland.
[Illustration: THE COLONY of SIERRA LEONE A bearing S.W. by E. distant 3
MILES, and the BANANAS bearing S.W. by W distant 3 leagues. Published Aug 1
1807 by G & W Nicol]
Were it practicable to reconcile these contentions, and procure these
valuable islands, they would form most eligible auxiliaries and depots to
any establishment which Government might form upon this part of the coast,
and be of the utmost importance; or in the event of their being
unattainable, factories might be established at Kittim and Boom, both under
Caulker's influence and protection. I have had frequent intercourse with
this chief, and I found him of a very superior understanding, and acute
intellect, to the generality of his countrymen; and if his jealousies could
be allayed by the emollients of superior advantage, his intelligence and
co-operation would much facilitate any operations in this quarter.
On the 10th of April we arrived at Goree Roads, and came to an anchor
nearly opposite to that part of the island of Goree, called the Point de
Nore, and opening Cape Emanuel, which is by much the most eligible position
in the event of tornados, as a ship may always run in safety to sea,
between the island and the main land.
Goree is a small island, or barren rock, little more than three quarters of
a mile in length, and a few hundred yards in breadth. Its native
inhabitants are of colour, and a spurious progeny from the French; for whom
they still retain a great predilection. The number of what are called
principal inhabitants, does not exceed 50 males, with their families,
dependants, and slaves; which may in the aggregate amount to frequently
between three and four thousand souls. Their principal trade is in slaves,
of whom they annually export about two thousand, with a small proportion of
dead cargo, chiefly procured from Gambia.
Religion, of any description, is little practised or understood among them;
although it is evident that Christianity has been introduced into the
island, as there are traces of a catholic chapel and a monastery remaining.
Custom here, as in all the maritime countries of Africa, is the governing
principle of all their actions, added to an avaricious thirst for gain, and
the indulgence of sensual gratification. The ceremony of marriage is too
offensive for delicacy even to reflect upon, much less for me to narrate:
it does not attach to the union any sacred obligation, the bond being
broken at the moment of caprice in either party, or predilection in favour
of any other object. As a preliminary to this disgusting ceremony, a "big
dinner," in their phraseology, and a few presents to the lady, first
obtaining her and her parents' consent, is all that is requisite. When the
happy pair are united, the dependants and slaves of the parties, and their
respective connexions, who are assembled round the buildings or huts, send
forth a most savage yell of exclamation, accompanied by their barbarous
music, gesticulations, and clapping of the hands, in unison with their song
of triumph. This dance is continued with unabating vociferation during the
night, and perhaps for a week, or greater length of time, bearing, however,
due reference to the rank and consequence of the connubial pair.
The following morning the bride issues forth, with solemn pace and slow, in
grand procession, preceded by her most intimate female associate during her
virgin state, reclining upon her shoulder with both hands; who, in
consequence, is considered as the next matrimonial candidate. They are
immediately surrounded by a concourse of attendants, accompanied by music,
dancing, and other wild expressions of joy; and in a body proceed to visit
her circle of acquaintance and friends, who are always expected to
contribute some offering of congratulation. This ceremony is the concluding
one on the part of the bride; while the dancing and music are continued by
the attendants as long as they can procure any thing either to eat or
drink.
[Illustration: ISLAND OF GOREE Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol]
In a military point of view, in its present condition, the island of Goree
is far from being a place of strength; but in a commercial, it is of
considerable importance; and, therefore, ought to claim the attention of
Government, if it attaches any consequence towards a commerce with the
coast of Africa. In a military character, its batteries and guns are in an
extremely bad condition; and it is completely a position where a piccaroon
privateer could check every supply from the continent, upon which it
depends for fresh provisions and water, and might carry on hostile
operations without the range of its batteries; which, by consequence,
always exposes this garrison to contingencies and casual supply. In a
commercial consideration, I view it as a possession of the greatest moment;
from its contiguity to the French settlement of the Senegal, and to a large
portion of that valuable district, which they claim and influence; from
whence accurate information may be obtained of their operations; and a
check may issue, to maintain our ascendency to leeward; besides a rallying
point for our outward bound ships, to ascertain the enemy's force upon the
coast; the deviation from a direct course to leeward being very
unimportant: moreover, it might be an eligible depot for the trade of that
infinitely valuable river, the Gambia, which, for variety of natural
productions, is perhaps not to be excelled by any other in the world; only
requiring the hand of industry and intelligence to fertilize and unfold.
The garrison of Goree has seldom more than 150 effective men to defend it,
of the royal African regiment, commanded by Major Lloyd;[1] and this force
is very fluctuating, from sickness and the diseases of the climate; in
general, however, it is tolerably healthy, and its physical department is
superintended by a gentleman (Doctor Heddle) of very considerable
intelligence and ability in his profession. The hospitality of Major Lloyd,
and the officers of his corps, to their countrymen, is distinguished by
liberality; and during my stay in that island, which was upwards of three
weeks, I have to acknowledge their polite attentions. I was the inmate of
Mr. Hamilton, in the commissariat department, whose peculiar friendship and
kind offices have made a most indelible impression upon my mind.
The view from the roads, some of the buildings near the shore being of
stone, and upon even an elegant and convenient construction, is calculated
to raise expectation upon approaching it, which is considerably
lessened[**Transcriber's note: "lessoned" must be a typesetting error.]
upon a nearer view; the streets being extremely narrow, and the huts of the
natives huddled together without regularity or system. The inhabitants are
governed in their local customs and capacities by a native mayor, and his
advisers; but, of course, under the control of the commandant of the
garrison; and this privilege is a mere matter of form and courtesy, which a
lenient authority permits.
[Footnote 1: Now Lieutenant Colonel Lloyd.]