a furd about 5 miles from Hamilton, came in to the muire way for Glasco:
wery ill way. Came to the Kirk of the Shots; then to Neidle eye wheir ye go
of to Bathcat; then to Swynish Abbey[513]; then to Blaickburne belonging to
the Laird of Binny, 12 miles from Edenburgh. Baited their, then came to
Long Levinstone a mile furder; then to the pile of Levinstone Murray: the
house [Toures][514] was destroyed by the English. Saw on our right hand
Calder, my Lord Torphichens residence; then entered unto that moor,
Drumshorling Moore; then came to Amont Water: rode within a bow shot of
Clifton hall and within halfe a mile of Eleiston; then to Gogar stone and
Gogar toune; then to Corstorphin, and so home, being the 15 of August
1668....[515]
[513] Now Swineabbey.
[514] Interlined.
[515] Nearly half a page blank.
One day in a promenade with Mr. James Pilans past by Wright houses,
Greenhill, Mr. (Doctor) Levinstons, then a litle house belonging to Doctor
Stevinsone; then Merchiston; then to the Barrowmoore wheir Begs famous
house is; then to the Brig-house which belonged to Braid,[516] was given of
by the Farlys in an assithment, liferented even now by the Ladie Braid,
payes her 200 merks a year; then up towards Greenbank to the Buckstone,
wheir is the merches of Braid with Mortinhall and Comistone; saw its
merches with the new Maynes of Colinton belonging to Mr. Harie Hay with
Craiglockart, the Pleughlands, and the Craighouse (now Sir Andro Dicks, of
old a part of the Barronie of Braid); then saw wheir the English armie lay,
also Swanston and Pentland. Then came alongs all the face or brow of the
bray of the Wester hill, which is the meith between Braid and Mortonhall,
till we came to Over libberton, Mr. William Little. Conquised by this mans
goodsire, William Little, provest of Edenburgh, befor K. Ja. went in to
England: a fyn man and stout: as appeared, 1°, that his taking a man out of
the Laird of Innerleith his house at Innerleith, having set sentries at all
the doors, and because they refused to open, tir[517] a hole in the hous
top and fetch him out and laid him in the tolbuith for ryving a bond of
borrowed money fra a burges of the toun; which proceidur the Secreit
Counsell then, tho summar, allowed of. 2°, thair having bein long debats
betuen the toun and the Logans of Restalrig for the passage throw
Restalrig's lands to Leith (the way wheirto then was just by the tower),
and Restalrig having aither refused to let them pas throw his lands or else
would have them to acknowledge him, Prov: Little being with K. Ja. at
Stirling made a griveous complaint of their insolency; wheirupon he said he
cared not tho the highest stone of Restalrig ware as lach as the lachest.
Wheirupon the prov: Will ye bid me doe it, Sir? Wheirupon the K. Doe it if
ye like. Immediatly wtout telling the K. or anie else comes he post to
Edenburgh and causes cast doune the tour that same night. The K. tyme of
supping coming the K. calls for his prov: of Edenburght: no body could
tell. At last some tells that he suddenly was goon to Edenb: this moved the
K. I'll wad, sayd he againe, its to cast doun Restalrig Castle. Go with all
the speid ye can and forbid it. Are anie could come their it was done. K.
Ja: used to call the Huntly the 1 noble man of his kingdome and the provest
of Edenb the 2d.
[516] Dick of Braid.
[517] Strip off part of the roof, and so make a hole.
To returne. From Over liberton saw the byway to St. Catharines Well, a
quarter of a mile from Liberton, Leswaid, and Drodden;[518] then came to
Libberton Kirk; then came neir to Libberton burne, and turned up to
Blackfurd, wheir we saw Braids merches with Libberton moore, now arable
ground, bought lately by the President.[519] Also wt Grange[520] saw
_Sacellum Sancti Marlorati_ Semirogues Chappell.[521] That burne that runes
throw the Brighouse goes by Blackfurd to the Calsay[522] and Powburne, then
to Dudiston Loch, out of which it runes again by West Dudiston milnes and
is the Thiget burne.[523] Braides burne againe runes by Libbertone toune to
Peppermilne, fra that straight to Nidrie by Brunstone and its milnes to the
sea, a mile west of Musleburgh: the Magdalen[524] bridge layes over it
their.
[518] Anciently Dredden, now Dryden.
[519] Sir John Gilmour.
[520] Dick of Grange. See Appendix I., p. 239, note.
[521] The two names seem to denote the same chapel. St. Roque's
Chapel was on the Boroughmuir, half-a-mile west of Grange House.
See Bishop Forbes's _Kalendar of Scottish Saints_ s.v.,
Semirookie: 'Aug. 16, 1327. Under this corruption we find the
popular designation of a chapel dedicated to St. Roque, just
outside the east gate of Dundee.' The other name, distinctly
written, looks like a corruption of St. Mary of Loretto. Besides
the more celebrated shrine at Musselburgh, there is a tradition of
a Loretto chapel near the Lady's Wynd. Possibly Lauder confused it
with St. Roque's Chapel.
[522] Causeway, highroad.
[523] So sometimes spelt, more often Figgate or Fegot. The course of
the two streams is incorrectly described.
[524] So called from a chapel to St. Mary Magdalen.
That nunnerie the walls wheirof are standing at the Cheyns[525] was
destined most by[526] burgesses daughters, as also that whilk was in the
Colledge Yaird called _Monasterium Sanctae Mariae in Campis_.
[525] Cheyns, now Sciennes, convent of St. Catherine of Sienna.
[526] Destined by, meaning 'destined for,' hence, 'occupied by.'
Cheynes holds of the toun: they ware Robisons that possest it of old;
Grange by the Cants; Craigmillar, Prestons, Edmistons, of that Ilk, now
Reth,[527] first of that name being Chancellar Seaton his servand and
carried the purse before him; Shirefhal, Giffards, then bought by the Earl
of Morton, Lord Dalkeith, now it belongs to the Balcleuch; Preistfield
(never kirk lands, tho the name would seime to say so), Hamilton, Tam of
the Cougates[528] father; before them in the Chopmans; as also in the
Cants.
[527] In 1671 the second son of Wauchope of Niddrie married the
daughter and heiress of Raith of Edmonston.
[528] Thomas Hamilton, first Earl of Haddington, favourite of James
VI., who so styled him.
Went on the 20 of September 1668 to Musselburgh to sie the Mid Lothian
Militia, being a regiment 10 companies (_id est_, Lauderdales Collonel, Sir
Jo. Nicolsons of Polton Lieutenant Collonel, Gogars Major, Mortanhalls,
Deans, Halzeards, Calderhalls, Sir Mark Kars[529] of Cockpens, etc.),
muster in a rendezvous in the Links. Saw in going Stainehill, a sweit
place, the Dobies, ware burgesses, now Mr. William Sharps, keiper of the
Kings Signet, about a mile on the west of Mussleburgh Water and bridge and
Mussleburgh on the eist.
[529] Apparently a son of the Earl of Lothian, afterwards a general
of the army.
On the way to the south stands Innerask[530] with its kirk. Hard at the
toune stands Pinkie, built about the year 1612 by Alexander Seton, Erle of
Dumferling, Lord High Chancellar of Scotland. His lady was Maitland, a
daughter of the then Lord Thirlistanes (who had bein King James his
Secretarie and Chancellar), now Erles of Lauderdale: his name and hirs are
in manie places of the house. This Erle of Dunferline that stayes at London
is his sone, hes so morcaged his Estate that my Lord Tueddalle for security
of cautionry for him hes tane possession of Pinkie, Fyvie, Dunferline, with
whatsomever other thing rests of his estate and is like to bruik it. Its a
most magnificent, statelie building [it hes but 20 chalder victual
belonging to it]:[531] much cost hes bein wared theirupon. Their is a brave
building of a well in the court, fine shade of tries that fetches you into
it, excellent lar[ge] gallries and dining roumes. He hes bein mighty
conceity in pretty mottoes and sayings, wheirof the walls and roofs of all
the roumes are filled, stuffed with good moralitie, tho somethat pedantick.
See Spotiswood of him in _Anno_ 1622, page 543. A most sweit garden, the
knot much larger than that at Hamilton and in better order. The rest of the
yeard nether so great nor in so good order nor so well planted with such
varietie as is in Hamilton yeards. The knot heir will be 200 foot square, a
mighty long grein walk. Saw figs at a verie great perfection. Above the
utter gait as ye enter in to the place their is an inscription in golden
letters telling the founder theirof, and assuring them that shall ever
attempt to destroy that fabrick by sword, fyre, demolishment, or other
wayes that the wery stones and beams ut of the wall shall exclaime against
them as destitute of all humanity and common courtesie. 18 plots in the
garden, with a summer houses and sundry pondes.
[530] Now Inveresk.
[531] Interlined.
Saw of[532] the linkes wheir Pinky field was fought on the hill neir
Fawsyde. Heard whow the Laird of Carberrie then not desiring the battell
should be to neir his house had so much influence on the Scots armie as to
cause them leive the advantadge they had of the high ground and draw doune
to the champagne countrey, which was a partiall cause of their rout, as
also that the Englishes had their ships just at the links, who with their
shots of the sea did our forces a great deall of hurt.
[532] _i.e._ off, meaning 'from.'
Saw Walafield belonging to the Paipes. East it on the sea syde the Salt
pans. Above them within the land Tranent; then Prestonpans, wher was B.
Jossies house; then Dauphintoun, once Archibald Wilkies; then Fawsyde,
Ramsayes, on a hill head; then a mile beyond it Elphinston, the Clerk
Registers;[533] then Carberrie, Blaires, they ware Rigs.
[533] Sir Archibald Primrose.
In the coming home saw Whithill, Easter Dudinstone, belonging to Sir Thomas
Thomsone. He that first acquired it was an Advocat in Queen Maries tyme,
who having bein much on hir party and afraid to be forfault, disponed his
whole estate over to a 2d brother of his, out of whosse hands he nor his
posterity (who are living this day in Rowen) could never pick it, so that
this Laird of it is the grandchild of that 2d brother.[534] Its 60 chalder
of wictuallat beir and wheat ever accompted the finest thing about
Edenburgh. Its of great circumference.
[534] I am informed by Mr. William Baird, author of _Annals of
Duddingston and Portobello_, that this story is not authentic.
Saw Brunstone and Nidrie. Came throw Restalrig toune, wheir stands an old
chappel, the buriall place of the Lo: of Balmerinoch: also of old the
parish church of South Leith, so that the minister of South Leith even now
is parsone at this kirk, at least denominat so.
Inchekeith might weill now be called Inche Scott, since Scottistarvet
bought it, who had great designes to have made a good fischer toune
theirupon.
A litle after we went to Halton[535] (the young La:[536] being at London).
Went out by Gorgie Milnes, belonging to one Broune; then by Sauchton hall;
then by Belsmilne to Stanipmilne, Elies, up above which stands Reidhall,
Brands, and Colinton, with Craiglockhart, wheirin the President, S.J.
Gilmor, hes intres tho it belong to Colinton; then to Sauchton belonging to
Mr. David Watsone. On our left hand was Langhermistoune, the portioners of
it Mr. Robert Deans the Advocat and Alexander Beaton the Wryter. On our
left hand Reidheues who are Tailfours, the last of them married a daughter
of Corstorphin, Foster, for this Lo:[537] is Lieutenant General Bailzies
sone, and got it by marrieng the heritrixe. Then came forward to Upper
Gogar belonging to on Douglas, who was a chamberlan for the Earle of
Morton. Kincaid of Wariston hes some intrest in it. Past Gogar Water, that
comes from Halton by Dalmahoy and Adestoun, and comes down to Gogar place.
On our left hand saw Riccarton Craig, Curriehill, Skene of old now
Winrahames; Wariston, Johnstons; Killeith,[538] Scot of Limphoys, and
nearest of all thesse Adeston,[539] bought by a Laird of Halton, who
married on Bellenden of Broughton, to be a provision to hir children (for
she was the Lairds 2d wife), wheiron he sold Cringelty neir Hayston in
Tueddal (which belonged of old to the Laird of Halton), and theirwith
purchessed Adelstoun and gave it to Sir Lues Lauder, who was the sone
procreat betuixt him and that ladie of the house of Bruchton. Sir Lues
married a daughter of Sir Archibald Achesons, who was Secretarie of
Scotland, whom I have sein, and who bore him 2 sones, one evan now a
preacher, married in England, the other in the Kings troup, with some
daughters: on of them knowen to have bein to familiar with Sir William
Fleming. Adelston now is sold to Sir John Gibson. Then saw Dalmahoy house
with its toune at some distance on the croup of the hill.
[535] Now Hatton.
[536] Charles Maitland, afterward Lord Halton, and third Earl of
Lauderdale, on whom and his children the estate was settled on his
marriage to Elizabeth, daughter of Richard Laudcr of Hatton.
[537] _i.e._ the present laird of Corstorphine.
[538] Now Kinleith.
[539] Now Alderston.
On our right hand stands Ratho (that belonged to Duncan, who being the
Kings talzeor conqueshed Bonytoun), now Mr. Alexander Foules; then Ratho
toune, the halfe of it belonging to Halton, the other halfe to Ratho place;
then Ratho kirk, the parish of many of the gentlemen of this country; then
Rathobyres, the on halfe wheirof pertaines to James Fleming; then
Northtoun,[540] a willage or meling[541] belonging to the Laird of Halton;
then came to Halton. Their beside the old Laird,[542] the lady[543]
Richard,[544] Jo.,[545] Charles and their sister Isabell[546] was Jean
Areskin, Balgonies daughter, Elphiston, a daughter of Calderhals, and Mr.
William Sims eldest daughter.
[540] Now Norton.
[541] Maling, Mailing (from 'mail,' rent) either has the ordinary
meaning 'farm,' or perhaps a group of cottars' houses, 'maillers'
or 'meallers,' who were allowed to build on waste land, and hired
themselves out as labourers.--Jamieson, _Dict_., s.v.
[542] Richard Lauder, last of Hatton.
[543] Richard Lauder's daughter, wife of Charles Maitland.
[544] Fourth earl.
[545] Fifth earl.
[546] Afterwards married to Lord Elphinston.
Halton, as I saw their, carries the griffin bearing a sword, on the point
wheirof is a Moors head. The occasion they tell me is that one of the
Lairds went with a brother of Robert the Bruce to the Holyland and slew
many of the Sarazens their, wheiron he added that to his coat. The motto
is, Strike alike. Metellans[547] hes a lion with a star.
[547] Maitlands.
Learned of the old Laird that the Lairds of Calder ware knights of the
order of St John of Jerusalem, after knights of the Rhodes, now of Malta,
and that by vertue theirof they ware superiors of all the Temple lands
(which in Edenburgh may be discerned yet by having Croces on them), as
weill in burgh as in landward throwghout Scotland. Heard him speak of that
Bond of Assurance betuixt the toune of Edenburgh and the Laird of Halton,
the like wheirof few in Scotland hes of the toune of Edenburgh.
This Laird hes bought in a place called the Spittle (_proprie_ the
Hospitall), just over on the other syde of the water, which never
appertained to the Laird of Halton of before. All the ground about it the
Laird is taking just now in to be a park.
In one of the chambers hings King Charles the 2d, King Henry le Grand of
France, fetcht home by the old Laird; the old Earle of Lauderdale with his
ladie, the Lady Reidhouse, now Lady Smeton Richison, the old Laird Mr.
Richard, with some others.
This Laird hes made a verie regular addition to the old dungeon tower. The
garden that lies to the west of the dungeon would have bein better placed
to the southe of the house wheir the bouling greine is, tho I confesse that
by reason of the precipice of the bray hard at hand it would have bein to
narrow. Hes its ponds.
Came back the same way we went.
Nixt day went for Eleiston, 7 miles from Edenburgh (Halton is 6). Went by
Corstorphin, Gogar toune and Stone; saw Gogar place, then Ingleston,
Eistfeild, belonging to James Gray, merchand, then Halzeards, Skein, then
Newliston, Auldliston, toune of Kirkliston, Castle of Nidrie, Baruclan, my
Lord Balmerinochs, Barnebougall, the Clerk Registers,[548] of old the
Moubrayes, Dundas of that Ilk, Leine,[549] Youngs, Craigiehall, bought from
my Lord Kingstone by Mr. Jo. Ferolme, 50 chalder of wictuall for a 100,000
merk, who seiking up some monies from some noblemen to pay it with
occasioned the making the Act of debitor and creditor; then Kilpont, the
Earle of Airths, Mr. Archibald Campbell hes 40,000 merks on it; then
Kirkhill, Stewarts, conquised by Sir Lues Stewart the advocat; his daughter
(a very good woman) is Ladie Glencairne; then Uphall Kirk, which is
Kirkhils parish kirk; then Binnie and Binnie Craigs with Wester Binnie,
which belongeth to Mr. Alexander Dicksone, professor in Hebrew. Crosed the
Water of Amont at Cliftonhall. Beyond Binnie Craigs stands Dechmond,
Hamiltons.
[548] Sir Archibald Primrose, 1616-1679; Clerk Register, 1660;
Justice-General, 1676. (See _infra_, p. 225.) His son Archibald
was the first Earl of Rosebery, cr. 1703.
[549] Leny.
Came to Eleiston,[550] over against it stands Bonytoun, Scots, the Laird of
Halton Mr. Richards ladie was of that family; also Clifton toune,
consisting of many mechanicks, especially wobsters, etc. Stands in
Linthgowshire 5 mile from it:[551] stands most hy and windie in the edge of
Drumshorling Moor.
[550] Now Illieston.
[551] _i. e_. apparently Linlithgow.
Inquiring, if because of its name Eleiston it ever belonged to the Eleis's
of before. Answered, that no: also that the true name of it is not Eleiston
but Hyliston. Belonged to the Earles of Monteith, and was a part of their
barronie of Kilpont. Its some 300 acker of land paying about 6 firlots the
acker; hes held at on rentall thesse 100 years. The gentlemen that last had
it ware Hamiltons, ever Catholicks. K. James, because he had no house to
bait at when he came to hunt in the moor, gave on of them 20,000 merks to
build that house, wheirto he added 4 himselfe.[552] Its stronglic built as
it had neid, being built in so windy a part. We first enter in to a hall.
On our right hand as we enter is a kitchin and a sellar, both wouted.[553]
On the left a fair chamber. Then ye go upstairs and ye have a fine high
hall, and of everie end a chamber hung both with arras hangings. Then in
the 3'd storie ye have a chamber and a larg loft. On the top of a turret
again above ther is a litle chamber wheir their preist stayed when the
Hamiltons had it, who had divers secret passages to convey himselfe away if
pershued. Their was Marion Sandilands, Hilderstons daughter, with Margaret
Scot his 2'd wyfe; item Sir John Scot of Scotstarvets picture. In the
timber of the most part of the windows is cut out the name of the gentleman
that had it, with the year of God when it was built, 1613, 1614. Mr. Jo.
Eleis hes put up his name and his ladies on the gate.
[552] _i. e_. the proprietor added 4000 merks.
[553] Vaulted, _voutés_.
Jo. Bonar hes bought a place just on the other syde of the loch of Lithgow
forgainst the palace, called Bonytoun, which he hes changed and called
Bonarton. Reidop, which belonged to on Drummond a Lord of the Sessionis,
neir Lithgow, my Lord Lithgow hes bought it: its but a small thing. Yea
manie of the Lords of Sessions purchess's at that tyme ware but small,
divars of them no 12 chalder of wictuall. Neir to Binnie I saw Riccarton,
Drummond.
Came home the same way that we went afield.[554]
[554] The passage which follows, enclosed within brackets, is scored
out.
[Illustration: JANET RAMSAY.
(_First Wife of Lord Fountainhall._)]
[I was married 21 January 1669 in the Trone Church at 6 a cloack at
night, being Thursday, by Mr. John Patersone. On the 3d of December 1669
was my sone John born about on afternoone, and was baptized on the
Sonday theirafter, being the 5th of December, in the Grayfriers, by Mr.
David Stirling.
On the 8 day of Aprill 1671, being about halfe are hower past tuo in the
morning, being on Friday night and Saturdsdayes moring,[555] was my wife
delivered of a daughter, who was baptized on the 23 of April, being
Sunday, in the by kirk by Mr. James Lundie, and called Jannet.
[555] Sic.
On the 15 of September 1672, about halfe are hower past 5 in the
morning, being Sundayes night or Mondayes morning, was my wife delivered
of a daughter, who was baptized on the 30 or last day of September,
being Monday, at 5 acloak in the afternoon, in the Tolbooth Church, by
Mr. William Gairnes, and was called Isobell.
See thir marked alibi.]
About the 25 of Aprile 1669 I went over to Fyfe with my father in law.
Landed at Kinghorne, wheir is an old castle ruinous, once belonging to the
Lord of Glammes, who had also a considerable intres within that toune, but
hes non now save the presentation of the minister (who is called Mr.
Gilbert Lyon) onlie. Walked from that to the Links on our foot by the sea
syde: saw Seafield Castle midway who ware Moutray to their names. The
French in Queen Maries dayes made use of it for a strenth. Then came to
Innerteill links, wheir be conies. Then to the Linktoune, divided by the
West burne fra Innerteill lands, wheir dwell neir 300 families, most of
them mechanicks, above 20 sutors masters, 37 wobsters, as many tailzeours:
its set out to them by ruides, each ruid payes a shilling of few duetie.
Saw the Westmilne house, the goodmen wheirof ware Boswels. The milne bes
the toune of Kirkcaldie thirled to it: payes some 16 chalders of wictuall.
Halfe a mile from this is Abbotshall church lands, tuise confirmed by the
Popes: they ware Scots, cadets of the Laird of Balveirie. Payed a
considerable few duety to the Abbots of Dumferling, which is now payed to
the King. He[556] bes lately got in the Scarres and Montholie, 16 chalders
of wictuall. Theirs a garden, bouling grein, tarraswalk, fruite
yard, wild orchard and a most spatious park, with a meadow and a loch,
wheir are a great number of picks, manie wild ducks big theirin. Neir it
lyes the Raith, my Lord Melvills. Balveirie is his also, and Bogie, Bogs
Eye, on the eye of a boog, Veimes.[557] Touch, Thomsone, his father was a
Writer to the Signet, some 10 chalders of wictuall; Bannochie belongs to
Boogie: on Ayton hes a wodset on it.
[556] His father-in-law, Abbotshall.
[557] _i.e._ Bogie belonged to a family of Wemyss.
Saw Grange, a wery sweit place: was Tresaurer of Scottland in Quein Maries
dayes, and Cunyghameheid was his depute, and his sone again was governour
of Edenburgh Castle and was hanged. Slew a 100 Frenchmen once at Masse.
Much planting about it. Is but 28 chalders of wictuall.
Saw Innerteill. It layes low, belonged to on Erskein, was a Lord of the
Session, had a daughter onlie, who married the Laird of Tarbet, then
Colinton. Malcolm of Babedie hes bought it (its 36 chalders of good
wictuall): gave for it 40,000 lb., and bids[558] hir liferent.
[558] _i.e._ bides.
Saw Pittedy, stands on the croup of a hill pleasantly but by; ware
Boswuells. David Dewars father was tennent heir above 30 years. Its 25
chalders of wictuall.
Kirkaldie is the best merchant toune in Fyfe: it had before the Englishes
came in 80 sail of ships belonging to it, now it will not have 30. Then is
Revensbeuch, its my Lord Sinclairs; then the Pathhead or Pittintillun,
belonging to on Watsone in Bruntilland; then the Dysert, wheir are manie
saltpans; the Weimes; Easter Weimes, Easter Buckhaven, Anstruther, Craill,
Fyfenes, St. Androis, the Elie, belonging to Ardrosse.
Went to Balgonie to sie the Chancelar,[559] which is not his, but the Earle
of Levine his children, belonged to the Sibbalds who ware great men and of
much power. Within halfe a mile to it stands Balfour, Beatons to their
name, a cadet of Lundy, married the heretrix of Balgonie in _anno_ 1606,
and tho he changed not his name yet he took the place of his elder brother
Lundie.
[559] Earl of Rothes.
Saw by the way Kinglassie, Ayton, Leslie, wheir a most magnificent house is
a building: it is neir the Lowmonds, and Falkland, and Lochlevin, in the
castle wheirof was Queen Marie keipt. About halfe a mile from it is
Markins,[560] wheir Mr. John Ramsay is minister, who is my goodfathers
cousin german. Neir it stands Brunton, most pleasantly: it belongs to one
Law. Their is much moorish ground in our way.